Wax Derivative Transesterification for Cosmetic Emulsifiers

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Solution Overview

Problem

Existing wax derivatives used in cosmetics and pharmacy exhibit lower hardness when simultaneously reacted with both solid and liquid waxes and a polyol, due to the formation of new polyol derivatives and random redistribution of fatty acids and alcohols, resulting in inconsistent emulsifying properties.

Innovation Solution

A process involving the simultaneous transesterification reaction between at least one solid wax and one liquid wax in the presence of a polyol and a catalyst, producing a wax derivative with specific ester compositions that enhance emulsifying properties and hydrophilicity, allowing for W/O or O/W emulsifying behavior.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If solid wax and liquid wax are simultaneously reacted with polyol, then emulsifying properties are improved, but hardness decreases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsifying propertiesVSAvoidhardness
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSStrength

Solution Approach 1:

The patent modifies the chemical structure of the wax derivative by controlling the degree of esterification and the type of polyol used, which changes the physical properties including hardness and emulsifying capacity. By adjusting parameters such as the molar ratio of wax to polyol, reaction temperature, and catalyst type, the patent optimizes the balance between hardness and emulsifying properties.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent creates a composite wax derivative by simultaneously reacting solid wax and liquid wax with polyol in a controlled transesterification reaction. This composite structure combines the hardening effect of solid wax with the emulsifying properties of liquid wax and polyol, achieving both improved emulsifying capability and maintained hardness through proper formulation.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

2Reliability

If simultaneous transesterification reaction is performed between solid and liquid waxes with polyol, then new polyol derivatives are formed enhancing emulsifying effect, but manufacturing complexity increases

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveemulsifying effectVSAvoidmanufacturing process complexity
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSDevice complexity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent merges the modification of solid wax and liquid wax into a single simultaneous transesterification reaction with polyol. This combined approach produces multiple emulsifying agents (solid wax-polyol derivatives, liquid wax-polyol derivatives, and mixed derivatives) in one process, simplifying manufacturing compared to separate modification steps.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #5Merging (Combining)

Solution Approach 2:

The patent develops a universal wax derivative product that can function as both a hardening agent and an emulsifying agent depending on its composition. The same derivative can provide W/O or O/W emulsifying behavior based on the polyol selected, reducing the need for multiple specialized ingredients and simplifying formulation complexity.

Inventive Principle:
Principle #6Universality (Multi-functionality)

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The resulting wax derivative exhibits improved emulsifying properties, including water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsifying capabilities, depending on the polyol used, and provides sensory softness in cosmetic applications.

Implementation Method 1

A process involving the simultaneous transesterification reaction between at least one solid wax and one liquid wax in the presence of a polyol and a catalyst

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectCatalysis: Catalysis

Implementation Method 2

the simultaneous reaction product between a solid wax, a liquid wax and a polyol... through this transesterification reaction, a random redistribution of the acids and alcohols composing the waxes is obtained

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectTransesterification reaction: Chemical Bonding

Implementation Method 3

The excipient has water-in-oil and oil-in-water emulsifying properties, depending on the polyol chosen

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectEmulsion: Emulsion

Implementation Method 4

this excipient can be used in cosmetics and pharmacy, in particular for its emulsifying effect depending on the W/O or O/W cases

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectSurfactant: Surfactant

Data Source

PatentEP1933806B1Support comprising a wax derivative for making topical cosmetic formulations
Publication Date: 2017.08.23 GATTEFOSSE SA
  • EP1933806B1 patent drawingFigure 1

AI summary

The invention concerns a support, in particular for making topical cosmetic formulations comprising a mixture containing: polyol esters with saturated linear acids and unsaturated linear and/or saturated branched acids, monounsaturated linear or saturated branched acid esters with saturated linear alcohols, saturated linear acid esters with monounsaturated linear or saturated branched alcohols, saturated linear and/or monounsaturated linear and/or saturated branched free alcohols, saturated linear ester acids and saturated linear alcohols, monounsaturated linear or saturated branched ester acids and monounsaturated linear or saturated branched linear alcohols, the linear saturated or branched saturated alcohols having at least 20 carbon atoms and the monounsaturated or branched alcohols and acids having less than 18 carbon atoms.