Wool Pile Fabric Finishing for Shearling-Like Softness

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Solution Overview

Problem

The high cost and limited supply of natural sheepskin products due to quality variations and limited availability of sheepskin, coupled with the inability of existing artificial fur and fleece products to replicate the desirable qualities of genuine sheepskin, necessitate an alternative that mimics the characteristics of shearling.

Innovation Solution

A method to create a natural wool, deep pile fabric that closely resembles shearling by processing wool fibers with a textile scrim, involving steps like carding, slivering, knitting, rough shearing, polishing with heated rollers, and applying conditioning solutions to achieve a soft, dense, and breathable fabric that replicates the performance characteristics of natural sheepskin.

Engineering Contradictions & Design Principles

VSEngineering Contradiction Analysis

1Reliability

If natural sheepskin is used to manufacture products, then the products have desirable qualities (softness, breathability, insulation), but the cost is high and supply is limited due to quality variations and limited availability

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvequality consistencyVSAvoidsupply availability
Core Design Contradiction:
ReliabilityVSProductivity

Solution Approach 1:

The patent creates an artificial pile fabric that copies the structure and properties of natural sheepskin. The fabric uses a textile scrim base with wool fibers attached to replicate the leather-fleece composite structure, providing similar insulation and breathability without relying on limited natural sheepskin supplies

Inventive Principle:
Principle #26Copying

Solution Approach 2:

The patent modifies the parameters of the pile fabric through controlled finishing processes including heat treatment (heating to 100-200°C), mechanical polishing, and chemical conditioning. These parameter changes transform the coarse, bristly wool into a soft, supple material that mimics the tactile and functional properties of natural sheepskin

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

2Productivity

If artificial fibers are used to make artificial fur and fleece products, then the supply is increased and cost is reduced, but the products lack the desirable qualities of genuine natural wool fleece and shearling

Engineering Contradiction:
Improvesupply availabilityVSAvoidquality equivalence
Core Design Contradiction:
ProductivityVSReliability

Solution Approach 1:

The patent uses a composite structure combining a textile scrim (synthetic or natural fiber base) with wool fibers attached to the surface. This composite approach allows the use of abundant, cost-effective materials while maintaining the functional properties of natural sheepskin through the wool component

Inventive Principle:
Principle #40Composite materials

Solution Approach 2:

The patent applies extensive finishing treatments including heating, polishing, and conditioning to transform the physical and chemical parameters of the wool fibers. These treatments soften the wool, remove coarse characteristics, and develop a supple hand feel that equivalence to genuine sheepskin

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

3Ease of manufacture

If wool pile fabric is made without proper finishing processes, then the manufacturing process is simpler, but the wool pile is coarse, bristly and abrasive making it unsuitable for clothing and footwear

Engineering Contradiction:
Improveprocess simplicityVSAvoidfabric softness
Core Design Contradiction:
Ease of manufactureVSEase of operation

Solution Approach 1:

The patent employs a multi-step finishing process that systematically changes the physical parameters of the wool pile. Heating to 100-200°C softens the fibers, mechanical polishing smooths the surface, and chemical conditioning agents modify the fiber structure to eliminate coarseness and abrasiveness

Inventive Principle:
Principle #35Parameter changes

Solution Approach 2:

The patent performs preliminary finishing treatments during the manufacturing process itself, integrating softening and polishing steps before the fabric is ready for use. This ensures the fabric achieves the desired softness and suppleness as part of the core manufacturing process rather than as a separate post-processing step

Inventive Principle:
Principle #10Preliminary action

Applied Scientific Principles

This section explains which scientific principles are used to turn an abstract innovation direction into a practical engineering solution.

Function Achieved in This Case

The resulting fabric is soft, dense, and breathable, closely approximating natural sheepskin fleece, making it suitable for use in footwear and apparel while reducing costs and increasing supply by utilizing processed wool fibers.

Implementation Method 1

polishing the wool fiber side of the pile fabric by guiding the length of pile fabric over one or more heated first polishing rolls

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectHeating: Heating

Implementation Method 2

The rolls rake the wool pile, heating it to a temperature sufficient to polish the wool fibers

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectThermal softening:

Implementation Method 3

The rolls rake the wool pile, heating it to a temperature sufficient to polish the wool fibers

Methodology Applied
Scientific EffectThermal conduction: Conduction (thermal)

Data Source

PatentEP2831321B1Method for making wool pile fabric
Publication Date: 2019.02.20 DECKERS OUTDOOR CORP
  • EP2831321B1 patent drawingFigure 1
  • EP2831321B1 patent drawingFigure 2
  • EP2831321B1 patent drawingFigure 3A~3B

AI summary

A method of making a sheared wool, deep pile fabric that closely resembles natural sheepskin fleece that includes forming a length of wool pile fabric having natural wool fibers on one side and a scrim on an opposing side and finishing the wool pile fabric as natural shearling. The finishing process includes polishing the wool fiber side of the pile fabric by guiding the length of pile fabric over one or more heated first polishing rolls, applying a sheepskin conditioning solution to the wool fiber side of the pile fabric, further polishing the wool fiber side of the pile fabric by guiding the fabric a plurality of times over one or more second heated polishing rolls, and cutting the wool fibers to a designated length.