A process method for achieving shoulder capacity and seamless armhole printing.
By using specific pattern design and sewing techniques, combined with the fixing, moving, and pressing mechanism of the ironing table, the problem of imprints at the armholes of suits was solved, achieving an imprint-free design for the armholes and improving product quality and aesthetics.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Patents(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- ZHEJIANG GIUSEPPE GARMENT
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-07
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-30
AI Technical Summary
Existing suits are prone to leaving marks at the armhole, which affects the aesthetics of the sleeve cap and does not meet the needs of the human shoulder curve.
Using specific pattern design and sewing techniques, including setting a 0.4cm opening at the front shoulder seam and a 1.5cm front shoulder capacity at the shoulder blade, and through steps such as diagonal tufting, front panel bonding, and chest lining fabrication, combined with the fixing, moving, and pressing mechanism of the ironing table, a seamless armhole design is achieved.
It eliminates the marks at the armhole, leaving the armhole natural and clean, conforming to the body shape, and improving product quality and added value.
Smart Images
Figure CN116334894B_ABST
Abstract
Description
Technical Field
[0001] This invention relates to the field of clothing technology, specifically to a process method for creating shoulder capacity and armholes without leaving marks. Background Technology
[0002] In a broad sense, a suit refers to Western-style clothing, a European style of clothing as opposed to "Chinese-style clothing." In a narrow sense, it refers to a Western-style jacket or suit. Suits are usually the first choice for men working in companies and in business settings, and their style and workmanship are related to the wearer's image.
[0003] However, commercially available suits typically employ a faux-seam technique for the armhole, using shoulder pads, elastic sleeve linings, and chest linings to make the armhole appear fuller. However, this technique leaves marks at the shoulder and sleeve cap area when the garment is worn, directly impacting the visual appeal of the clothing. The human body is curved, with prominent scapulae at the shoulders. Suits must conform to the scapulae to create shoulder volume. To address these issues, the inventor proposes a manufacturing method that provides shoulder volume and eliminates armhole marks. Summary of the Invention
[0004] In order to solve the problem of imprints at the shoulder and sleeve caps when wearing finished garments produced by existing technologies, the purpose of this invention is to provide a process method that has shoulder capacity and no imprints at the armholes.
[0005] To solve the above-mentioned technical problems, the present invention adopts the following technical solution: a process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting, comprising the following steps:
[0006] S1, Template Design
[0007] When making the pattern, set a 0.4cm opening at 1 / 3 of the front shoulder seam, and a 1.5cm front shoulder capacity at the shoulder blade (about 6.0cm from the shoulder seam). The shoulder capacity is the appropriate shoulder blade protrusion for the human body. Set the highest point of the shoulder blade protrusion (about 6.0cm from the shoulder seam) as the height of the triangle, 2.5cm. Using the height as the midpoint, make two identical right triangles on the left and right sides, so that the sum of the hypotenuses of the two triangles minus the base is approximately equal to 1.5cm. This is the shoulder capacity to be made on the suit.
[0008] S2, Front panel bonding
[0009] Align the front panel with the center front of the lining. When bonding, align the front panel with the lining threads, keeping them straight and smooth, without twisting. The lining should be flat and without overlap or wrinkles. The lining should be 1.2cm wide and about 9.0cm long on the upper part of the armhole.
[0010] S3, oblique traction suture
[0011] Using a 1.5-width straight diagonal tie (the tie is about 0.3cm from the fabric edge), sew from the shoulder / sleeve point to the first notch, slightly tightening the tie by 0.3cm; overlap the white tie with the armhole tie on the fabric (overlap by 1.0cm), and sew smoothly downwards to the second notch; from the second notch to the armpit, sew with an ease of about 0.15cm, then sew smoothly for about 3.0cm, then sew to about 2.0cm from the back corner of the small piece, with an ease of about 0.3cm, and finally, sew smoothly to the back corner of the small piece, with a seam allowance of 0.6cm, and the white tie is 0.35cm from the fabric edge;
[0012] S4, Former Form Guiba
[0013] Arrange the front body pieces according to the pattern diagram and place them on the ironing board. Iron the front body pieces on the ironing board.
[0014] S5, Fabrication of the Chest Pad
[0015] A: Pull the shoulder dart of the main interfacing (black carbon interfacing) back 1.8cm, put on the black carbon interfacing pad, and sew one stitch with a triangular needle machine. Gather it down about 0.3cm in the armhole direction; align the bust dart notch with the cut position and sew one stitch with a triangular needle machine.
[0016] B: Align the notch of the chest dart on the chest lining (core-spun horsehair lining) with the cut position and sew it together with a triangular stitch.
[0017] C: Place the shoulder pad (core-spun horsehair pad) on the chest pad: align the shoulder pad edge with the chest pad edge, 1.6cm apart, and the shoulder seam 0.8cm from the chest pad. Pull up the shoulder dart of the chest pad and align it with the notch on the shoulder pad, about 0.5cm from the shoulder pad edge. Make a "7" shaped seam. Then place the finished shoulder pad on the main pad, with the shoulder seam and edge 0.8cm apart, and make a "7" shaped seam.
[0018] D: Place the chest quilt on the prepared chest support lining: the chest quilt's edge is 1.6cm from the main lining, and the shoulder seam is 0.3cm higher than the main lining; make a fixed seam about 0.8cm from the chest quilt's edge, lift the chest quilt, and use a 1.5cm wide, 15° diagonal pull to make a dart point about 2.0cm from the chest support shoulder dart, through the chest support lining armhole, and continue to 1.0cm below the chest support lining. Then roll the edge inward and make a straight sew with a triangular stitch.
[0019] E: Next, make two horizontal stitches about 2.0cm below the chest lining. Finally, make one stitch with a sewing machine along the parallel seam of the chest lining from the edge. The row spacing is 2.0cm.
[0020] F: Iron the chest lining seam straight, straighten the middle protruding part inward, iron the 1.0cm wide tie lining 0.3cm from the chest lining seam to the stop, iron it straight, when ironing the lining, from the shoulder and neck point down to the shoulder lining (about 16.0cm), the upper section is ironed flat, the tie lining from the shoulder lining down to the middle section of the chest cotton is slightly tightened, and the lower section of the main lining is ironed flat.
[0021] S6, with chest lining
[0022] The chest pad fits the body perfectly, the front shoulders naturally have a prominent shoulder line, the front seams are natural, the chest is full, the front chest and front shoulders have a good three-dimensional effect, and the chest pad maintains its shape well.
[0023] A: Place the chest lining: With the front panel reversed, align the chest lining seam with the lapel fold line parallel to the seam fold line and 1.2cm apart. The chest lining should be 0.8cm higher than the body panel at the shoulder and 0.5cm wider at the neckline, so that the chest lining and the body panel fit together at the chest. Then smooth the body and turn it right side out.
[0024] B: Line 1: Push the excess fabric at the dart tip towards the edge and smooth it out. Make a horizontal line about 10.0cm long about 2.0cm away from the dart tip. Keep the silk threads at the armhole straight and even. The body piece and chest lining should be smooth and even, and the silk threads should not be twisted or skewed.
[0025] C: No. 2 thread: Keep the front chest seam straight, start the stitch about 10.0cm down from the shoulder seam and sew along the body seam through the middle of the handkerchief pocket to about 1 / 2 of the chest dart. The body should be taut and there should be no looseness.
[0026] D: No. 3 line: Horizontally sew from point A at the bust dart to point B. Point B is about 5.0cm from the bottom of the armhole. Then sew from point B to point C. Point C is aligned with the first notch of the armhole. The seam line of section BC is about 5.0cm from the armhole. Push the front shoulder seam towards the armhole to make the front shoulder allowance, with an allowance of one finger at the first notch of the armhole. Then sew from point C to point D. Point D is about 10.0cm below the shoulder seam. The front piece is lowered by about 0.3cm. Finally, sew from point D to point E. Push and pull the excess body piece towards the seam in section DE. After attaching the bust lining, keep the grain straight at the armhole and keep the seam line flat. There should be no excess allowance.
[0027] S7, Armhole seam treatment
[0028] After attaching the sleeve, sew the sleeve cap padding fabric along the center of the sleeve seam and shoulder seam. Make a notch 0.1cm away from the sleeve attachment line at 5.0cm from the shoulder seam on both the front and back armholes. Finally, press the sleeve cap seam back and press the padding fabric open, slightly pulling the seam apart to make the seam fit the body. The armhole is an arc shape, and pressing the seam back onto the body will create an inner and outer difference. The armhole uses a 1.5-width straight diagonal strap to prevent the seam from being pulled apart when back-sewing after making the shoulder capacity, thus avoiding seam pulling or tightness.
[0029] Preferably, the ironing table has a placement plate on its upper surface, an ironing compartment is fixedly installed on the upper surface of the ironing table, a viewing window is fixedly installed on one side of the ironing compartment, an iron is installed inside the ironing compartment, a connecting pipe is fixedly installed at one end of the iron, the connecting pipe is movably connected to one side of the ironing compartment, support legs are fixedly installed at the four corners of the bottom of the ironing table, a fixing mechanism is provided on the upper surface of the placement plate, a moving mechanism is provided on the surface of the ironing table, and an automatic ironing mechanism and a pressing mechanism are respectively provided inside the ironing compartment.
[0030] Preferably, the fixing mechanism includes two L-shaped plates, the lower surfaces of the two L-shaped plates are fixedly connected to the upper surface of the placement plate, a fixing plate is provided on the opposite side of the two L-shaped plates, an elastic pad is fixedly installed on the lower surface of the two fixing plates, a first sliding groove is opened on the opposite side of the two L-shaped plates, a first slider is slidably connected to the inner wall of the two first sliding grooves, one side of one first slider is fixedly connected to one side of a fixing plate, a pull rod is movably inserted into the side of the two L-shaped plates away from the placement plate, one end of one pull rod is fixedly connected to the upper surface of a fixing plate, a return spring is movably sleeved on the outer wall of the two pull rods, one end of the return spring is fixedly connected to the inner wall of the L-shaped plate, the other end of the return spring is fixedly connected to the upper surface of the fixing plate, and a handle is fixedly installed on the other end of the two pull rods.
[0031] Preferably, the moving mechanism includes a moving base, the upper surface of which is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the placement plate. Two second sliding grooves are formed on the upper surface of the ironing table. Second sliders are slidably connected to the inner walls of the two second sliding grooves. The upper surfaces of the two second sliders are fixedly connected to the lower surface of the moving base. A connecting plate is fixedly installed on the side of the moving base near the second sliders. A lead screw is rotatably installed on the inner wall of the ironing chamber. The lead screw passes through the connecting plate and is threadedly rotatably connected to the connecting plate. A first motor is fixedly installed on the side of the ironing table away from the placement plate. A first fixing block is fixedly installed on the outer wall of the first motor. The upper surface of the first fixing block is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the ironing table. A first rotating rod is fixedly installed at the drive output end of the first motor. The first rotating rod passes through the ironing table and is rotatably connected to the ironing table. Bevel gears are fixedly installed at both the end of the first rotating rod away from the first motor and the end of the lead screw, and the two bevel gears mesh with each other.
[0032] Preferably, the automatic ironing mechanism includes an electric push rod, a connecting seat fixedly installed on the piston end of the electric push rod, the side of the connecting seat away from the electric push rod being fixedly connected to the iron, a U-shaped seat fixedly installed on the end of the electric push rod away from the connecting seat, a guide groove formed on the inner wall of the ironing chamber, a guide block slidably connected to the inner wall of the guide groove, a connecting rod fixedly installed on one side of the guide block, the end of the connecting rod away from the guide block being fixedly connected to one side of the U-shaped seat, a rotating shaft rotatably installed on the inner wall of the U-shaped seat, a push rod fixedly installed on the outer wall of the rotating shaft, a second motor fixedly installed on the other side of the ironing chamber, a second fixing block fixedly installed on the outer wall of the second motor, one side of the second fixing block being fixedly connected to the other side of the ironing chamber, a second rotating rod fixedly installed on the drive output end of the second motor, a rotating disk fixedly installed on the end of the second rotating rod away from the second motor, a drive rod fixedly installed on the side of the rotating disk away from the second rotating rod, and a drive rod rotatably connected to one end of the push rod at the end of the drive rod away from the rotating disk.
[0033] Preferably, the pressing mechanism includes a pressing plate, a sponge pad is fixedly installed on the lower surface of the pressing plate, and a U-shaped groove is formed on the surface of both the pressing plate and the sponge pad. The iron and the U-shaped groove are vertically aligned. Frame plates are fixedly installed on both sides of the connecting seat. Telescopic rods are fixedly installed on the lower surfaces of the two frame plates. The piston ends of the two telescopic rods are fixedly connected to the upper surface of the pressing plate. Telescopic springs are movably sleeved on the outer walls of the two telescopic rods. One end of the telescopic spring is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the frame plate, and the other end of the telescopic spring is fixedly connected to the upper surface of the pressing plate.
[0034] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of the present invention are as follows:
[0035] 1. In this invention, a combination of templates and processes is used to eliminate imprints at the armhole after the finished product is completed, resulting in a natural and clean armhole that meets the needs of the human body shape, thereby improving product quality and added value.
[0036] 2. In this invention, by raising the fixing plate and elastic pad in the fixing mechanism, when the front piece to be ironed is placed on the upper surface of the placement plate, the fixing plate and elastic pad are lowered by the extension of the return spring. The fixing plate presses the front piece tightly through the elastic pad, thereby conveniently fixing the front piece and facilitating the automatic ironing of the front piece.
[0037] 3. In this invention, the moving seat in the moving mechanism moves horizontally, and the moving seat moves the front piece horizontally toward one side of the ironing chamber through the placement plate, so that the front piece after horizontal movement is vertically aligned with the iron, thereby conveniently realizing the horizontal displacement of the front piece, and thus facilitating the adjustment of the horizontal position of the front piece during subsequent ironing operations.
[0038] 4. In this invention, by lowering the pressing plate and sponge pad in the pressing mechanism, the lower surface of the sponge pad comes into contact with the upper surface of the front piece, and the pressing plate presses the front piece through the sponge pad, thus conveniently achieving the pressing of the front piece, thereby effectively improving the stability of the front piece during the ironing process, and at the same time, effectively improving the ironing effect of the front piece.
[0039] 5. In this invention, by driving the push rod in the automatic ironing mechanism to reciprocate, the push rod causes the iron to reciprocate horizontally through the rotating shaft, U-shaped seat, electric push rod and connecting seat. While the iron is reciprocating horizontally, it irons the front piece, thus conveniently realizing the automatic ironing of the front piece, thereby effectively improving the convenience of ironing the front piece. Attached Figure Description
[0040] To more clearly illustrate the technical solutions in the embodiments of the present invention or the prior art, the drawings used in the description of the embodiments or the prior art will be briefly introduced below. Obviously, the drawings described below are only some embodiments of the present invention. For those skilled in the art, other drawings can be obtained based on these drawings without creative effort.
[0041] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram of the overall structure of the present invention.
[0042] Figure 2 This is another overall structural schematic diagram of the present invention.
[0043] Figure 3 This is a cross-sectional structural diagram of the ironing table and ironing chamber of the present invention.
[0044] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the connection of the fixing mechanism of the present invention.
[0045] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram showing the connection between the placement plate and the moving mechanism of the present invention.
[0046] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram showing the connection between the automatic ironing mechanism and the pressing mechanism of the present invention.
[0047] Figure 7 For the present invention Figure 6 Enlarged schematic diagram of part A in the diagram.
[0048] Figure 8 This is a schematic diagram showing the connection between the drive rod and the push rod of the present invention.
[0049] In the diagram: 1. Ironing table; 11. Placement plate; 12. Ironing compartment; 13. Viewing window; 14. Iron; 15. Connecting tube; 16. Support leg; 2. Fixing mechanism; 21. L-shaped plate; 22. Fixing plate; 23. Elastic pad; 24. First slide rail; 25. First slider; 26. Pull rod; 27. Return spring; 28. Handle; 3. Moving mechanism; 31. Moving base; 32. Second slide rail; 33. Second slider; 34. Connecting plate; 35. Lead screw; 36. First motor; 37. First fixing plate 38. First rotating rod; 39. Bevel gear; 4. Automatic ironing mechanism; 41. Electric push rod; 42. Connecting seat; 43. U-shaped seat; 44. Guide groove; 45. Guide block; 46. Connecting rod; 47. Rotating shaft; 48. Push rod; 49. Second motor; 5. Second fixing block; 51. Second rotating rod; 52. Rotating disk; 53. Drive rod; 6. Pressing mechanism; 61. Pressing plate; 62. Sponge pad; 63. U-shaped groove; 64. Frame plate; 65. Telescopic rod; 66. Telescopic spring. Detailed Implementation
[0050] The technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the accompanying drawings. Obviously, the described embodiments are only some embodiments of the present invention, and not all embodiments. Based on the embodiments of the present invention, all other embodiments obtained by those skilled in the art without creative effort are within the scope of protection of the present invention.
[0051] Example: Figure 1-8 As shown, the present invention provides a process method for achieving shoulder capacity and seamless armholes, comprising the following steps:
[0052] S1, Template Design
[0053] When making the pattern, set a 0.4cm opening at 1 / 3 of the front shoulder seam, and a 1.5cm front shoulder capacity at the shoulder blade (about 6.0cm from the shoulder seam). The shoulder capacity is the appropriate shoulder blade protrusion for the human body. Set the highest point of the shoulder blade protrusion (about 6.0cm from the shoulder seam) as the height of the triangle, 2.5cm. Using the height as the midpoint, make two identical right triangles on the left and right sides, so that the sum of the hypotenuses of the two triangles minus the base is approximately equal to 1.5cm. This is the shoulder capacity to be made on the suit.
[0054] S2, Front panel bonding
[0055] Align the front panel with the center front of the lining. When bonding, align the front panel with the lining threads, keeping them straight and smooth, without twisting. The lining should be flat and without overlap or wrinkles. The lining should be 1.2cm wide and about 9.0cm long on the upper part of the armhole.
[0056] S3, oblique traction suture
[0057] Using a 1.5-width straight diagonal tie (the tie is about 0.3cm from the fabric edge), sew from the shoulder / sleeve point to the first notch, slightly tightening the tie by 0.3cm; overlap the white tie with the armhole tie on the fabric (overlap by 1.0cm), and sew smoothly downwards to the second notch; from the second notch to the armpit, sew with an ease of about 0.15cm, then sew smoothly for about 3.0cm, then sew to about 2.0cm from the back corner of the small piece, with an ease of about 0.3cm, and finally, sew smoothly to the back corner of the small piece, with a seam allowance of 0.6cm, and the white tie is 0.35cm from the fabric edge;
[0058] S4, Former Form Guiba
[0059] Arrange the front body pieces according to the pattern diagram and place them on ironing board 1. Iron the front body pieces on ironing board 1.
[0060] S5, Fabrication of the Chest Pad
[0061] A: Pull the shoulder dart of the main interfacing (black carbon interfacing) back 1.8cm, put on the black carbon interfacing pad, and sew one stitch with a triangular needle machine. Gather it down about 0.3cm in the armhole direction; align the bust dart notch with the cut position and sew one stitch with a triangular needle machine.
[0062] B: Align the notch of the chest dart on the chest lining (core-spun horsehair lining) with the cut position and sew it together with a triangular stitch.
[0063] C: Place the shoulder pad (core-spun horsehair pad) on the chest pad: align the shoulder pad edge with the chest pad edge, 1.6cm apart, and the shoulder seam 0.8cm from the chest pad. Pull up the shoulder dart of the chest pad and align it with the notch on the shoulder pad, about 0.5cm from the shoulder pad edge. Make a "7" shaped seam. Then place the finished shoulder pad on the main pad, with the shoulder seam and edge 0.8cm apart, and make a "7" shaped seam.
[0064] D: Place the chest quilt on the prepared chest support lining: the chest quilt's edge is 1.6cm from the main lining, and the shoulder seam is 0.3cm higher than the main lining; make a fixed seam about 0.8cm from the chest quilt's edge, lift the chest quilt, and use a 1.5cm wide, 15° diagonal pull to make a dart point about 2.0cm from the chest support shoulder dart, through the chest support lining armhole, and continue to 1.0cm below the chest support lining. Then roll the edge inward and make a straight sew with a triangular stitch.
[0065] E: Next, make two horizontal stitches about 2.0cm below the chest lining. Finally, make one stitch with a sewing machine along the parallel seam of the chest lining from the edge. The row spacing is 2.0cm.
[0066] F: Iron the chest lining seam straight, straighten the middle protruding part inward, iron the 1.0cm wide tie lining 0.3cm from the chest lining seam to the stop, iron it straight, when ironing the lining, from the shoulder and neck point down to the shoulder lining (about 16.0cm), the upper section is ironed flat, the tie lining from the shoulder lining down to the middle section of the chest cotton is slightly tightened, and the lower section of the main lining is ironed flat.
[0067] S6, with chest lining
[0068] The chest pad fits the body perfectly, the front shoulders naturally have a prominent shoulder line, the front seams are natural, the chest is full, the front chest and front shoulders have a good three-dimensional effect, and the chest pad maintains its shape well.
[0069] A: Place the chest lining: With the front panel reversed, align the chest lining seam with the lapel fold line parallel to the seam fold line and 1.2cm apart. The chest lining should be 0.8cm higher than the body panel at the shoulder and 0.5cm wider at the neckline, so that the chest lining and the body panel fit together at the chest. Then smooth the body and turn it right side out.
[0070] B: Line 1: Push the excess fabric at the dart tip towards the edge and smooth it out. Make a horizontal line about 10.0cm long about 2.0cm away from the dart tip. Keep the silk threads at the armhole straight and even. The body piece and chest lining should be smooth and even, and the silk threads should not be twisted or skewed.
[0071] C: No. 2 thread: Keep the front chest seam straight, start the stitch about 10.0cm down from the shoulder seam and sew along the body seam through the middle of the handkerchief pocket to about 1 / 2 of the chest dart. The body should be taut and there should be no looseness.
[0072] D: No. 3 line: Horizontally sew from point A at the bust dart to point B. Point B is about 5.0cm from the bottom of the armhole. Then sew from point B to point C. Point C is aligned with the first notch of the armhole. The seam line of section BC is about 5.0cm from the armhole. Push the front shoulder seam towards the armhole to make the front shoulder allowance, with an allowance of one finger at the first notch of the armhole. Then sew from point C to point D. Point D is about 10.0cm below the shoulder seam. The front piece is lowered by about 0.3cm. Finally, sew from point D to point E. Push and pull the excess body piece towards the seam in section DE. After attaching the bust lining, keep the grain straight at the armhole and keep the seam line flat. There should be no excess allowance.
[0073] S7, Armhole seam treatment
[0074] After attaching the sleeve, sew the sleeve cap padding fabric along the center of the sleeve seam and shoulder seam. Make a notch 0.1cm away from the sleeve attachment line at 5.0cm from the shoulder seam on both the front and back armholes. Finally, press the sleeve cap seam back and press the padding fabric open, slightly pulling the seam apart to make the seam fit the body. The armhole is an arc shape, and pressing the seam back onto the body will create an inner and outer difference. The armhole uses a 1.5-width straight diagonal strap to prevent the seam from being pulled apart when back-sewing after making the shoulder capacity, thus avoiding seam pulling or tightness.
[0075] The ironing table 1 has a placement plate 11 on its upper surface and an ironing chamber 12 fixedly installed on its upper surface. An iron 14 is installed inside the ironing chamber 12. A connecting pipe 15 is fixedly installed at one end of the iron 14. The connecting pipe 15 is movably connected to one side of the ironing chamber 12. The upper surface of the placement plate 11 has a fixing mechanism 2. The surface of the ironing table 1 has a moving mechanism 3. The ironing chamber 12 has an automatic ironing mechanism 4 and a pressing mechanism 6 installed inside.
[0076] By adopting the above technical solution, the fixing mechanism 2 is set to facilitate the fixing of the front piece. The moving mechanism 3 is set to move the fixed front piece horizontally into the ironing chamber 12 through the placement plate 11, which facilitates the subsequent ironing operation and makes it easy to adjust the horizontal position of the front piece. The automatic ironing mechanism 4 is set to facilitate the automatic ironing of the front piece. The pressing mechanism 6 is set to press the front piece during the ironing process, thereby improving the ironing effect of the front piece.
[0077] A viewing window 13 is fixedly installed on one side of the ironing compartment 12, and support legs 16 are fixedly installed at the four corners of the bottom of the ironing table 1.
[0078] By adopting the above technical solution, the viewing window 13 makes it easy for staff to observe the ironing operation in the ironing chamber 12, and the support leg 16 improves the stability of the ironing table 1.
[0079] The fixing mechanism 2 includes two L-shaped plates 21. The lower surfaces of the two L-shaped plates 21 are fixedly connected to the upper surface of the placement plate 11. Fixing plates 22 are provided on opposite sides of the two L-shaped plates 21. Elastic pads 23 are fixedly installed on the lower surfaces of the two fixing plates 22. Pull rods 26 are movably inserted into the side of the two L-shaped plates 21 away from the placement plate 11. One end of one pull rod 26 is fixedly connected to the upper surface of a fixing plate 22. Return springs 27 are movably sleeved on the outer walls of the two pull rods 26. One end of the return spring 27 is fixedly connected to the inner wall of the L-shaped plate 21, and the other end of the return spring 27 is fixedly connected to the upper surface of the fixing plate 22. Handles 28 are fixedly installed on the other ends of the two pull rods 26.
[0080] By adopting the above technical solution, by pulling the lever 26, the lever 26 causes the fixing plate 22 and the elastic pad 23 to rise. At the same time, the rise of the fixing plate 22 causes the return spring 27 to contract. After the front body piece is placed on the upper surface of the placement plate 11, the extension and retraction of the return spring 27 pushes the fixing plate 22 and the elastic pad 23 to descend vertically. The fixing plate 22 and the elastic pad 23 fix the front body piece on the upper surface of the placement plate 11, thereby achieving the fixation of the front body piece.
[0081] Each of the two L-shaped plates 21 has a first sliding groove 24 on its opposite side. The inner walls of the two first sliding grooves 24 are slidably connected to a first slider 25. One side of the first slider 25 is fixedly connected to one side of a fixed plate 22.
[0082] By adopting the above technical solution, by setting the first slide groove 24 and the first slider 25, the first slider 25 keeps the fixed plate 22 moving up and down in the vertical direction.
[0083] The moving mechanism 3 includes a moving base 31, the upper surface of which is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the placement plate 11. The upper surface of the ironing table 1 has two second slide grooves 32, and the inner walls of the two second slide grooves 32 are slidably connected to second sliders 33. The upper surfaces of the two second sliders 33 are fixedly connected to the lower surface of the moving base 31. A connecting plate 34 is fixedly installed on the side of the moving base 31 near the second sliders 33. A lead screw 35 is rotatably installed on the inner wall of the ironing chamber 12. The lead screw 35 passes through the connecting plate 34 and is threadedly rotatably connected to the connecting plate 34.
[0084] By adopting the above technical solution, by setting the second slide 32 and the second slider 33, the second slider 33 keeps the moving seat 31 moving in the horizontal direction. By rotating the lead screw 35, the lead screw 35 drives the connecting plate 34 to move in the horizontal direction. The connecting plate 34 moves the placement plate 11 in the horizontal direction through the moving seat 31.
[0085] A first motor 36 is fixedly installed on the side of the ironing table 1 away from the placement plate 11. A first fixing block 37 is fixedly installed on the outer wall of the first motor 36. The upper surface of the first fixing block 37 is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the ironing table 1. A first rotating rod 38 is fixedly installed at the drive output end of the first motor 36. The first rotating rod 38 passes through the ironing table 1 and is rotatably connected to the ironing table 1. A bevel gear 39 is fixedly installed at the end of the first rotating rod 38 away from the first motor 36 and at the end of the lead screw 35. The two bevel gears 39 mesh with each other.
[0086] By adopting the above technical solution, by turning on the first motor 36, the drive shaft of the first motor 36 causes the first rotating rod 38 to rotate, and the first rotating rod 38 causes the lead screw 35 to rotate through two meshing bevel gears 39.
[0087] The automatic ironing mechanism 4 includes an electric push rod 41. A connecting seat 42 is fixedly installed on the piston end of the electric push rod 41. The side of the connecting seat 42 away from the electric push rod 41 is fixedly connected to the iron 14. A U-shaped seat 43 is fixedly installed on the end of the electric push rod 41 away from the connecting seat 42. A rotating shaft 47 is rotatably installed on the inner wall of the U-shaped seat 43. A push rod 48 is fixedly installed on the outer wall of the rotating shaft 47. A second motor 49 is fixedly installed on the other side of the ironing chamber 12. A second fixing block 5 is fixedly installed on the outer wall of the second motor 49. One side of the second fixing block 5 is fixedly connected to the other side of the ironing chamber 12. A second rotating rod 51 is fixedly installed on the drive output end of the second motor 49. A rotating disk 52 is fixedly installed on the end of the second rotating rod 51 away from the second motor 49. A drive rod 53 is fixedly installed on the side of the rotating disk 52 away from the second rotating rod 51. The end of the drive rod 53 away from the rotating disk 52 is rotatably connected to one end of the push rod 48.
[0088] By adopting the above technical solution, by activating the electric push rod 41, the piston end of the electric push rod 41 causes the iron 14 to descend vertically through the connecting seat 42, so that the lower surface of the iron 14 contacts the upper surface of the front piece. By activating the second motor 49, the drive shaft of the second motor 49 causes the second rotating rod 51 to rotate. The second rotating rod 51 causes the drive rod 53 to rotate around the axis of the rotating disk 52 through the rotating disk 52. The drive rod 53 causes the push rod 48 to reciprocate. The push rod 48 causes the iron 14 to reciprocate horizontally through the rotating shaft 47, the U-shaped seat 43, the electric push rod 41 and the connecting seat 42. While the iron 14 is reciprocating horizontally, it is ironing the front piece.
[0089] The inner wall of the ironing chamber 12 is provided with a guide groove 44, and a guide block 45 is slidably connected to the inner wall of the guide groove 44. A connecting rod 46 is fixedly installed on one side of the guide block 45, and the end of the connecting rod 46 away from the guide block 45 is fixedly connected to one side of the U-shaped seat 43.
[0090] By adopting the above technical solution, by setting the guide groove 44, the guide block 45 and the connecting rod 46, the guide block 45 moves the U-shaped seat 43 horizontally through the connecting rod 46, thereby keeping the iron 14 moving horizontally.
[0091] The pressing mechanism 6 includes a pressing plate 61, on the lower surface of the pressing plate 61 a sponge pad 62 is fixedly installed, and the surfaces of the pressing plate 61 and the sponge pad 62 are both provided with U-shaped grooves 63. The iron 14 and the U-shaped grooves 63 are vertically aligned. The two sides of the connecting seat 42 are fixedly installed with frame plates 64. The lower surfaces of the two frame plates 64 are fixedly installed with telescopic rods 65. The piston ends of the two telescopic rods 65 are fixedly connected to the upper surface of the pressing plate 61. The outer walls of the two telescopic rods 65 are movably fitted with telescopic springs 66. One end of the telescopic spring 66 is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the frame plate 64, and the other end of the telescopic spring 66 is fixedly connected to the upper surface of the pressing plate 61.
[0092] By adopting the above technical solution, when the piston end of the electric push rod 41 extends, the piston end of the electric push rod 41 causes the pressing plate 61 and the sponge pad 62 to descend vertically through the connecting seat 42, the frame plate 64, the telescopic rod 65 and the telescopic spring 66. When the lower surface of the iron 14 contacts the upper surface of the front piece, the telescopic rod 65 and the telescopic spring 66 retract, and the pressing plate 61 presses the front piece tightly through the sponge pad 62.
[0093] Working principle: This invention combines pattern making and process techniques to eliminate marks at the armhole after finishing, resulting in a natural and clean armhole that conforms to human body shape requirements, thereby improving product quality and added value.
[0094] When the front panel needs to be ironed, the operator first pulls the two handles 28 upwards. The two handles 28 raise the two fixed plates 22 and the two elastic pads 23 vertically through the two pull rods 26. At the same time, the two return springs 27 retract. Then, the front panel to be ironed is placed on the placement plate 11, and the two handles 28 are released. At this time, the two return springs 27 extend. The extension of the two return springs 27 causes the two fixed plates 22 and the two elastic pads 23 to descend vertically. The two fixed plates 22 and the two elastic pads 23 fix the front panel to the upper surface of the placement plate 11, thus conveniently fixing the front panel and facilitating the automatic ironing of the front panel.
[0095] Subsequently, the staff turned on the first motor 36, and the drive shaft of the first motor 36 caused the first rotating rod 38 to rotate. The first rotating rod 38 caused the lead screw 35 to rotate through two bevel gears 39. The lead screw 35 drove the connecting plate 34 to move horizontally. The connecting plate 34 caused the placement plate 11 and the fixed front piece to move horizontally toward one side of the ironing chamber 12 through the moving seat 31 until the horizontally moved front piece was vertically aligned with the iron 14. Then the first motor 36 was turned off.
[0096] At this time, the staff turns on the electric push rod 41. The piston end of the electric push rod 41 causes the pressing plate 61 and the sponge pad 62 to descend vertically through the connecting seat 42, two frame plates 64, two telescopic rods 65 and two telescopic springs 66. The pressing plate 61 presses the front piece through the sponge pad 62, thus conveniently pressing the front piece, thereby effectively improving the stability of the front piece during the ironing process, and at the same time, effectively improving the ironing effect of the front piece.
[0097] Meanwhile, the piston end of the electric push rod 41 causes the iron 14 to descend vertically through the connecting seat 42. When the lower surface of the iron 14 contacts the upper surface of the front piece, the electric push rod 41 is turned off. At this time, the operator turns on the second motor 49. The drive shaft of the second motor 49 causes the second rotating rod 51 to rotate. The second rotating rod 51 causes the drive rod 53 to rotate around the axis of the rotating disk 52 through the rotating disk 52. The drive rod 53 causes the push rod 48 to reciprocate. The push rod 48 causes the iron 14 to move horizontally back and forth through the rotating shaft 47, the U-shaped seat 43, the electric push rod 41 and the connecting seat 42. While the iron 14 moves horizontally back and forth, it irons the front piece, thus conveniently realizing the automatic ironing of the front piece and effectively improving the convenience of ironing the front piece.
[0098] Obviously, those skilled in the art can make various modifications and variations to this invention without departing from its spirit and scope. Therefore, if these modifications and variations fall within the scope of the claims of this invention and their equivalents, this invention also intends to include these modifications and variations.
Claims
1. A manufacturing process for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without visible marks, characterized in that, Includes the following steps: S1, Template Design When making the pattern, set a 0.4cm opening at 1 / 3 of the front shoulder seam, and a 1.5cm front shoulder capacity at the shoulder blade about 6.0cm from the shoulder seam. The shoulder capacity is the appropriate shoulder blade protrusion for the human body. Set the highest point of the shoulder blade protrusion about 6.0cm from the shoulder seam as the height of the triangle, which is 2.5cm. Using the height as the midpoint, make two identical right triangles on the left and right sides. The sum of the hypotenuses of the two triangles minus the base is approximately equal to 1.5cm. This is the shoulder capacity to be made on the suit. S2, Front panel bonding Align the front panel with the center front of the lining. When bonding, align the front panel with the lining threads, keeping them straight and smooth, without twisting. The lining should be flat and without overlap or wrinkles. The lining should be 1.2cm wide and about 9.0cm long on the upper part of the armhole. S3, oblique traction suture Using a 1.5cm wide straight diagonal sew, sew from the shoulder / sleeve point to the first sew-in hole, with the sew-in hole about 0.3cm from the fabric edge and the sew-in hole slightly taut by 0.3cm. Overlap the white sew-in hole sew-in with the armhole sew-in on the fabric, with an overlap of 1.0cm, and sew smoothly downwards to the second sew-in hole. From the second sew-in hole to the armpit, sew with an ease of about 0.15cm, then sew smoothly for about 3.0cm, then sew to about 2.0cm from the back corner of the small piece, with an ease of about 0.3cm. Finally, sew smoothly to the back corner of the small piece, with a seam allowance of 0.6cm, and the white sew-in hole 0.35cm from the fabric edge. S4, Former Form Guiba Arrange the front body pieces according to the pattern diagram and place them on the ironing board (1). Iron the front body pieces on the ironing board (1). S5, Fabrication of the Chest Pad A: Pull back the shoulder dart of the black carbon interlining by 1.8cm, put on the black carbon interlining pad, and sew it once with a triangular needle machine. Gather it down about 0.3cm in the direction of the armhole; align the notch of the bust dart with the cut position and sew it together with a triangular needle machine. B: Align the slits and cuts of the core-spun horsehair lining with the chest lining and join them together, then sew a single line with a triangular stitch. C: Place the core-spun horsehair interfacing shoulder pad on the chest pad: align the shoulder pad edge with the chest pad edge, 1.6cm apart, and the shoulder seam 0.8cm from the chest pad. Pull up the chest pad shoulder dart and align it with the notch on the shoulder pad, about 0.5cm from the shoulder pad edge. Make a 7-stitch seam. Then place the finished shoulder pad on the main interfacing, with the shoulder seam and edge 0.8cm apart, and make a 7-stitch seam. D: Place the chest quilt on the prepared chest support lining: the chest quilt's edge is 1.6cm from the main lining, and the shoulder seam is 0.3cm higher than the main lining; make a fixed seam about 0.8cm from the chest quilt's edge, lift the chest quilt, and use a 1.5cm wide, 15° diagonal tuft to make a dart point about 2.0cm from the chest support shoulder dart, through the chest support lining armhole, and continue to 1.0cm below the chest support lining. Then roll the edge inward and make a straight sew with a triangular stitch. E: Next, make two horizontal stitches about 2.0cm below the chest lining. Finally, make one stitch with a sewing machine along the parallel seam of the chest lining from the edge. The row spacing is 2.0cm. F: Iron the seam of the chest lining straight, straighten the protruding part in the middle, and iron the 1.0cm wide tie-up lining 0.3cm from the stop of the chest lining seam. Iron the lining straight. When ironing the lining, from the shoulder and neck point down to about 16.0cm from the shoulder lining, iron the upper section flat. From the shoulder lining down to the middle section of the chest cotton, the tie-up lining is slightly tightened. Iron the lower section of the main lining flat. S6, with chest lining The chest lining fits the body perfectly, the front shoulders naturally have a prominent shoulder line, the front seams are natural, the chest is full, the front chest and front shoulders have a good three-dimensional effect, and the chest lining maintains its shape well. A: Place the chest lining: With the front panel reversed, align the chest lining seam with the lapel fold line parallel to the seam fold line and 1.2cm apart. The chest lining should be 0.8cm higher than the body panel at the shoulder and 0.5cm wider at the neckline, so that the chest lining and the body panel fit together at the chest. Then smooth the body and turn it right side out. B: Line 1: Push the excess fabric at the dart tip towards the edge and smooth it out. Make a horizontal line about 10.0cm long about 2.0cm away from the dart tip. Keep the silk threads at the armhole straight and even. The body piece and chest lining should be smooth and even, and the silk threads should not be twisted or skewed. C: No. 2 thread: Keep the front chest seam straight, start the stitch about 10.0cm down from the shoulder seam and sew along the body seam through the middle of the handkerchief pocket to about 1 / 2 of the chest dart. The body should be taut and there should be no looseness. D: No. 3 line: Horizontally sew from point A at the bust dart to point B. Point B is about 5.0cm from the bottom of the armhole. Then sew from point B to point C. Point C is aligned with the first notch of the armhole. The seam line of section BC is about 5.0cm from the armhole. Push the front shoulder seam towards the armhole to make the front shoulder allowance, with an allowance of one finger at the first notch of the armhole. Then sew from point C to point D. Point D is about 10.0cm below the shoulder seam. The front piece is lowered by about 0.3cm. Finally, sew from point D to point E. Push and pull the excess body piece towards the seam in section DE. After attaching the bust lining, keep the grain straight at the armhole and keep the seam line flat. There should be no excess allowance. S7, Armhole seam treatment After attaching the sleeve, sew the sleeve cap padding fabric along the center of the sleeve seam and shoulder seam. Make a notch 0.1cm away from the sleeve attachment line at 5.0cm from the shoulder seam on both the front and back armholes. Finally, press the sleeve cap seam back and press the padding fabric open, slightly pulling the seam apart to make the seam fit the body. The armhole is an arc shape, and pressing the seam back onto the body will create an inner and outer difference. Use a 1.5cm wide straight diagonal strap for the armhole. After making the shoulder capacity, when back-sewing the seam, the seam allowance can be pulled apart appropriately to prevent the seam from being pulled or too tight.
2. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 1, characterized in that, The ironing table (1) has a placement plate (11) on its upper surface. An ironing chamber (12) is fixedly installed on the upper surface of the ironing table (1). An iron (14) is installed inside the ironing chamber (12). A connecting pipe (15) is fixedly installed at one end of the iron (14). The connecting pipe (15) is movably connected to one side of the ironing chamber (12). A fixing mechanism (2) is provided on the upper surface of the placement plate (11). A moving mechanism (3) is provided on the surface of the ironing table (1). An automatic ironing mechanism (4) and a pressing mechanism (6) are respectively provided inside the ironing chamber (12).
3. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 2, characterized in that, A viewing window (13) is fixedly installed on one side of the ironing compartment (12), and support legs (16) are fixedly installed at the four corners of the bottom of the ironing table (1).
4. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 2, characterized in that, The fixing mechanism (2) includes two L-shaped plates (21). The lower surfaces of the two L-shaped plates (21) are fixedly connected to the upper surface of the placement plate (11). Fixing plates (22) are provided on opposite sides of the two L-shaped plates (21). Elastic pads (23) are fixedly installed on the lower surfaces of the two fixing plates (22). Pull rods (26) are movably inserted into the side of the two L-shaped plates (21) away from the placement plate (11). One end of one pull rod (26) is fixedly connected to the upper surface of a fixing plate (22). Return springs (27) are movably sleeved on the outer walls of the two pull rods (26). One end of the return spring (27) is fixedly connected to the inner wall of the L-shaped plate (21). The other end of the return spring (27) is fixedly connected to the upper surface of the fixing plate (22). Handles (28) are fixedly installed on the other ends of the two pull rods (26).
5. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 4, characterized in that, The two L-shaped plates (21) are provided with first sliding grooves (24) on opposite sides. The inner walls of the two first sliding grooves (24) are slidably connected with first sliders (25). One side of one first slider (25) is fixedly connected to one side of a fixed plate (22).
6. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 2, characterized in that, The moving mechanism (3) includes a moving seat (31), the upper surface of the moving seat (31) is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the placement plate (11), the upper surface of the ironing table (1) has two second slide grooves (32), the inner walls of the two second slide grooves (32) are slidably connected to second sliders (33), the upper surfaces of the two second sliders (33) are fixedly connected to the lower surface of the moving seat (31), a connecting plate (34) is fixedly installed on the side of the moving seat (31) near the second sliders (33), and a lead screw (35) is rotatably installed on the inner wall of the ironing chamber (12), the lead screw (35) passes through the connecting plate (34) and is threadedly rotatably connected to the connecting plate (34).
7. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 6, characterized in that, The ironing table (1) is fixedly provided with a first motor (36) on the side away from the placement plate (11). A first fixing block (37) is fixedly installed on the outer wall of the first motor (36). The upper surface of the first fixing block (37) is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the ironing table (1). A first rotating rod (38) is fixedly installed at the drive output end of the first motor (36). The first rotating rod (38) passes through the ironing table (1) and is rotatably connected to the ironing table (1). A bevel gear (39) is fixedly installed at one end of the first rotating rod (38) away from the first motor (36) and at one end of the lead screw (35). The two bevel gears (39) mesh with each other.
8. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 2, characterized in that, The automatic ironing mechanism (4) includes an electric push rod (41), a connecting seat (42) is fixedly installed on the piston end of the electric push rod (41), the side of the connecting seat (42) away from the electric push rod (41) is fixedly connected to the iron (14), a U-shaped seat (43) is fixedly installed on the end of the electric push rod (41) away from the connecting seat (42), a rotating shaft (47) is rotatably installed on the inner wall of the U-shaped seat (43), a push rod (48) is fixedly installed on the outer wall of the rotating shaft (47), and a second motor (49) is fixedly provided on the other side of the ironing chamber (12). A second fixing block (5) is fixedly installed on the outer wall of the second motor (49). One side of the second fixing block (5) is fixedly connected to the other side of the ironing chamber (12). A second rotating rod (51) is fixedly installed on the drive output end of the second motor (49). A rotating disk (52) is fixedly installed on the end of the second rotating rod (51) away from the second motor (49). A drive rod (53) is fixedly installed on the side of the rotating disk (52) away from the second rotating rod (51). The end of the drive rod (53) away from the rotating disk (52) is rotatably connected to the end of the push rod (48).
9. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 8, characterized in that, The inner wall of the ironing chamber (12) is provided with a guide groove (44), and a guide block (45) is slidably connected to the inner wall of the guide groove (44). A connecting rod (46) is fixedly installed on one side of the guide block (45), and the end of the connecting rod (46) away from the guide block (45) is fixedly connected to one side of the U-shaped seat (43).
10. The process method for achieving shoulder capacity and an armhole without imprinting as described in claim 8, characterized in that, The pressing mechanism (6) includes a pressing plate (61), a sponge pad (62) is fixedly installed on the lower surface of the pressing plate (61), and a groove (63) is opened on the surface of both the pressing plate (61) and the sponge pad (62). The iron (14) and the groove (63) are vertically aligned. A frame plate (64) is fixedly installed on both sides of the connecting seat (42). A telescopic rod (65) is fixedly installed on the lower surface of both frame plates (64). The piston end of the two telescopic rods (65) is fixedly connected to the upper surface of the pressing plate (61). A telescopic spring (66) is movably sleeved on the outer wall of both telescopic rods (65). One end of the telescopic spring (66) is fixedly connected to the lower surface of the frame plate (64), and the other end of the telescopic spring (66) is fixedly connected to the upper surface of the pressing plate (61).