Timepiece component and method for manufacturing such a timepiece component
Patent Information
- Application Number
- EP2023745606
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2022-08-02
- Filing Date
- 2023-08-02
- Publication Date
- 2025-06-11
AI Technical Summary
Current watch components face challenges in achieving durable, customizable, and resistant decorations without modifying the watch architecture, particularly in obtaining various color combinations and resisting environmental stresses.
A watch component featuring a partially transparent substrate with a first layer of colored enamel applied by transfer and a second opacifying finishing layer, which can be made of enamel or metal-based coatings, applied to enhance durability and visibility through the substrate, allowing for customizable designs and resistance to environmental factors.
The solution enables the creation of robust, repeatable, and customizable watch components with durable decorations that are resistant to scratches and UV rays, offering a wide range of color combinations without requiring dedicated design or protection measures in the watch architecture.
Smart Images

Figure 1.1
Abstract
Description
[0001] Watch component and method for producing a watch component.
[0002] The invention relates to a watch component. The invention also relates to a timepiece comprising such a watch component. The invention finally relates to a method for producing such a watch component.
[0003] In watchmaking, particularly in watchmaking exteriors, the aim is to obtain a reliable, robust and repeatable bezel disc that is decorated and unalterable, i.e. one whose decorations can be varied without limitation in the choice of colours or their combinations, for a monochrome or multicoloured result, according to any design, while being resistant to ageing and environmental stresses (scratches, UV rays, etc.), and this without the architecture of the watch parts having to be adapted to achieve these objectives.
[0004] Documents CH707424A2 and CH707423A2 describe the production of components in technical ceramic (alumina or zirconia, for example), opaque, with decorations made by impregnation of metallic salts on the face of the component visible to the user of the timepiece. It is difficult with the processes described to obtain all the color combinations.
[0005] Patent EP1734420B1 describes a transparent watch crystal, locally enameled on its lower face, so as to help mask the system for assembling the crystal to the caseband. In this patent, the main claim is a waterproof case comprising a caseband and a back delimiting a compartment closed by a crystal, made of a transparent material resistant to a temperature above 500°C, glued or welded at the level of joint zones at least partially covering the surface of the caseband, characterized in that the internal face of the crystal comprises a deposit of enamel formed at the level of the joint zones.
[0006] Patent CH320817 describes a rotating bezel comprising a transparent disc whose lower face is both:
[0007] - hollowed out to form indexes (signs), the hollows being coated with a metallic deposit coloring the indexes, and
[0008] - coated, for example with a varnish, in order to give a colored appearance to the disc outside the hollows.
[0009] The transparent disc reveals signs of metallic color, contrasting with the color applied to its underside. An example is given, in which this color is that of a varnish.
[0010] Document WO2006 / 133810A1 discloses a component comprising a transparent substrate decorated using enamel layers arranged in hollows, as well as their method of obtaining. Variations in shades of the enamel described in this document are generated by variations in enamel thickness, controlled by the depth of the hollows in which it is deposited (these hollows can be on the faces and / or on the side of the components). A range of shades is thus obtained for a single enamel composition.
[0011] The aim of the invention is to provide a watch component that makes it possible to improve the components known from the prior art. In particular, the invention proposes a watch component that can be decorated in a simple manner and offers great durability of the decorations made on the component without it being necessary to design the rest of the timepiece, with dedicated means for protecting the decorated surface. According to a first aspect of the invention, objects are defined by the following propositions.
[0012] 1. Watch component (1) comprising:
[0013] - a substrate (11) made of at least partially transparent material, and
[0014] - a first layer of colored enamel (12) applied by transfer onto the substrate (11), in particular by decalcomania of a chromo onto the substrate (11).
[0015] 2. Watch component (1) according to proposition 1, characterized in that the watch component (1) comprises a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), applied at least in part to the first layer of colored enamel (12).
[0016] 3. Watch component (1) according to proposition 1 or 2, characterized in that the substrate is made of an inorganic material such as a technical ceramic, a quartz, a spinel, a magnesium aluminate, an AION, a YAG, a cubic zirconia, a mineral glass, a polycrystalline alumina, a glass-ceramic, a monocrystalline alumina and / or in that the substrate has at least locally a value of the real in-line transmission or Real In-line Transmittance for a light having a wavelength of 550 nm greater than 60% or 70% or 80% or 85%.
[0017] 4. Watch component (1) according to one of propositions 1 to 3, characterized in that the substrate has a hardness greater than 800 Hv or 1000 Hv. Watch component (1) according to one of propositions 1 to 4 and according to proposition 2, characterized in that the second finishing layer is:
[0018] - a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel applied by transfer, and / or
[0019] - a metal-based layer, in particular deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or
[0020] - a layer of another coating, such as a paint. Watch component (1) according to one of proposals 1 to 5, characterized in that the watch component (1) is an external covering component for a timepiece (100), such as in particular:
[0021] - an ice cream,
[0022] - a background,
[0023] - a bezel disc,
[0024] - a bracelet element, or
[0025] - a case middle, or in that the watch component (1) is an internal component for a timepiece (100), such as in particular:
[0026] - a dial,
[0027] - a flange, or
[0028] - a display disc for timepiece information. Timepiece component (1) according to one of proposals 1 to 6, characterized:
[0029] - in that the substrate (1 1 ) comprises a first surface (11 1 ) and a second surface (1 12), in particular a second surface (1 12) parallel or substantially parallel to a first surface (1 1 1 ), - in that the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) are applied to the first surface (1 11 ), and
[0030] - in that the first surface (1 1 1 ), in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied to the first surface, is visible through the second surface (1 12) and the substrate (1 1 ). . Timepiece component (1 ) according to proposition 7, characterized in that the substrate (1 1 ) comprises at least one second hollow (15) made on the second surface (1 12), in particular at least one second hollow (15) made by laser machining. . Timepiece component (1 ) according to proposition 8, characterized in that the at least one second hollow (15) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. 0. Watch component (1) according to one of proposals 7 to 9, characterized in that the substrate (11) has an anti-reflective treatment on the second surface (112). 1.Watch component (1) according to one of propositions 1 to 10 and according to proposition 7, characterized in that the substrate (11) comprises at least one first hollow (14) made on the first surface (111) after application of the first and second layers, in particular at least one first hollow (14) made by laser machining. Watch component (1) according to proposition 11, characterized in that the at least one first hollow (14) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Watch component (1) according to proposition 11 or 12, characterized in that the at least one first hollow (14) is such that the area of ablated material at a plane perpendicular to a direction in which the at least one first hollow is made, arranged between:
[0031] - the surface from which the at least one first hollow is made, in particular the lower surface (1 1 1 ) or a surface of the first layer (12) or a surface of the second layer (13), and
[0032] - a surface defining the bottom of the at least one first hollow, is scalable according to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made, and / or is such that the area of ablated material at any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made is scalable according to a direction orthonormal to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made. Timepiece component (1) according to one of proposals 11 to 13, characterized in that the at least one first hollow (14) has a millimetric or micrometric or nanometric area, in particular at a surface defining the bottom of the hollow and / or at the surface from which it is made. Method for producing a timepiece component (1), the method comprising the following steps:
[0033] - providing a substrate (11) made of at least partially transparent material, and
[0034] - application of a first layer of colored enamel (12) on the substrate (11) by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo on the substrate (11). Production method according to proposition 15, characterized in that the method comprises an application of a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), at least in part on the first layer of colored enamel (12). Production method according to proposition 16, characterized in that the application of the second layer is:
[0035] - an application of a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo, and / or
[0036] - an application of a metal-based layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or
[0037] - application of a layer of another coating, such as a paint. Production method according to one of proposals 15 to 17, characterized in that it comprises a step of producing at least one first hollow (14) on a first surface (111) of the substrate (11), in particular at least one first hollow (14) produced by laser machining, and / or in that it comprises a step of producing at least one second hollow (15) on a second surface (112) of the substrate (11), in particular at least one second hollow (15) produced by laser machining.Production method according to proposition 18, characterized in that the step of producing at least one first hollow and / or the step of producing at least one second hollow are carried out after the step of applying the first enamel layer (12) to the substrate (11), and in that, in the step of producing at least one first hollow and / or in the step of producing at least one second hollow, a decoration formed by the first enamel layer is used as a reference, in particular as a machining reference. Production method according to one of propositions 18 and 19, characterized in that the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first hollow (14) and / or the at least one second hollow (15), in particular with a metal-based layer, in particular with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Watch component (1) obtained by implementing the method according to one of proposals 15 to 20.Timepiece (100) comprising a timepiece component (1) according to one of the propositions 1 to 14 and 21, in particular a timepiece component (1) according to one of the propositions 7 to 14 arranged so that the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13), is visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11) by the wearer of the timepiece (100).
[0038] According to a second aspect of the invention, objects are defined by the following propositions.
[0039] 23. Watch component (1) comprising:
[0040] - a substrate (11) made of at least partially transparent material,
[0041] - a first layer of colored enamel (12) applied to the substrate (11), in particular applied by transfer to the substrate (11), in particular by decalcomania of a chromo on the substrate (11), and
[0042] - a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), applied at least in part to the first layer of colored enamel (12).
[0043] 24. Watch component (1) according to proposition 23, characterized in that the substrate is made of an inorganic material such as a technical ceramic, a quartz, a spinel, a magnesium aluminate, an AION, a YAG, a cubic zirconia, a mineral glass, a polycrystalline alumina, a glass-ceramic, a monocrystalline alumina and / or in that the substrate has at least locally a value of the real in-line transmission or Real In-line Transmittance for a light having a wavelength of 550 nm greater than 60% or 70% or 80% or 85%.
[0044] 25. Watch component (1) according to one of proposals 23 to 24, characterized in that the substrate has a hardness greater than 800 Hv or 1000 Hv. Watch component (1) according to one of proposals 23 to 25, characterized in that the second finishing layer is:
[0045] - a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel applied by transfer, and / or
[0046] - a metal-based layer, in particular deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or
[0047] - a layer of another coating, such as a paint. Watch component (1) according to one of proposals 23 to 26, characterized in that the watch component (1) is an external covering component for a timepiece (100), such as in particular:
[0048] - an ice cream,
[0049] - a background,
[0050] - a bezel disc,
[0051] - a bracelet element, or
[0052] - a case middle, or in that the watch component (1) is an internal component for a timepiece (100), such as in particular:
[0053] - a dial,
[0054] - a flange, or
[0055] - a display disc for timepiece information. Timepiece component (1) according to one of proposals 23 to 27, characterized:
[0056] - in that the substrate (1 1 ) comprises a first surface (11 1 ) and a second surface (1 12), in particular a second surface (1 12) parallel or substantially parallel to a first surface (1 1 1 ),
[0057] - in that the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) are applied to the first surface (1 11 ), and
[0058] - in that the first surface (1 1 1 ), in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied to the first surface, is visible through the second surface (1 12) and the substrate (1 1 ). Watch component (1 ) according to proposition 28, characterized in that the substrate (1 1 ) comprises at least one second recess (15) made on the second surface (1 12), in particular at least one second recess (15) made by laser machining. Watch component (1 ) according to proposition 29, characterized in that the at least one second recess (15) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Watch component (1) according to one of proposals 28 to 30, characterized in that the substrate (11) has an anti-reflective treatment on the second surface (112).Watch component (1) according to one of proposals 23 to 31 and according to proposal 28, characterized in that the substrate (11) comprises at least one first recess (14) made on the first surface (111) after application of the first and second layers, in particular at least one first recess (14) made by laser machining. Watch component (1) according to proposal 32, characterized in that the at least one first recess (14) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Watch component (1) according to proposal 32 or 33, characterized in that the at least one first recess (14) is such that the area of ablated material at a plane perpendicular to a direction in which the at least one first recess is made, arranged between:
[0059] - the surface from which the at least one first hollow is made, in particular the lower surface (1 1 1 ) or a surface of the first layer (12) or a surface of the second layer (13), and
[0060] - a surface defining the bottom of the at least one first hollow, is scalable according to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made, and / or is such that the area of ablated material at any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made is scalable according to a direction orthonormal to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made. Timepiece component (1) according to one of proposals 32 to 34, characterized in that the at least one first hollow (14) has a millimetric or micrometric or nanometric area, in particular at a surface defining the bottom of the hollow and / or at the surface from which it is made. Method for producing a timepiece component (1), the method comprising the following steps:
[0061] - providing a substrate (11) made of at least partially transparent material,
[0062] - application of a first layer of colored enamel (12) on the substrate (11), in particular application of the first layer of colored enamel (12) on the substrate (11) by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo on the substrate (11), and
[0063] - application of a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second finishing layer (13) opacifying at least in part on the first layer of colored enamel (12). Production method according to proposition 36, characterized in that the application of the second layer is:
[0064] - an application of a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo, and / or
[0065] - an application of a metal-based layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or
[0066] - application of a layer of another coating, such as a paint. Production method according to one of proposals 36 and 37, characterized in that it comprises a step of producing at least one first hollow (14) on a first surface (11 1 ) of the substrate (1 1 ), in particular at least one first hollow (14) produced by laser machining, and / or in that it comprises a step of producing at least one second hollow (15) on a second surface (1 12) of the substrate (1 1 ), in particular at least one second hollow (15) produced by laser machining.Production method according to proposition 38, characterized in that the step of producing at least one first hollow and / or the step of producing at least one second hollow are carried out after the step of applying the first enamel layer (12) to the substrate (11), and in that, in the step of producing at least one first hollow and / or in the step of producing at least one second hollow, a decoration formed by the first enamel layer is used as a reference mark, in particular as a machining reference mark. Production method according to one of propositions 38 and 39, characterized in that the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first hollow (14) and / or the at least one second hollow (15), in particular with a metal-based layer, in particular with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Watch component (1) obtained by implementing the method according to one of proposals 36 to 40.Timepiece (100) comprising a timepiece component (1) according to one of the proposals 25 to 35 and 41, in particular a timepiece component (1) according to one of the proposals 30 to 35 arranged such that the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13), is visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11) by the wearer of the timepiece (100). Figure 1 is a schematic view of an embodiment of a timepiece according to the invention, in which view a timepiece component is shown in section.
[0067] An embodiment of a timepiece 100 is described below in detail with reference to FIG. 1.
[0068] The timepiece 100 is for example a watch, in particular a wristwatch. The timepiece 100 comprises an assembly including:
[0069] - a clockwork movement, and
[0070] - a dial.
[0071] The assembly is intended to be mounted in a watch case or box in order to protect it from the external environment.
[0072] The watch movement can be a mechanical movement, especially an automatic movement, or a hybrid movement. Alternatively, the movement can be an electronic movement.
[0073] The timepiece 100, in particular the assembly or the case or the dial or the movement, comprises a timepiece component 1. The timepiece component 1 may for example be an external casing component for the timepiece 100, such as in particular:
[0074] - an ice cream,
[0075] - a background,
[0076] - a bezel disc,
[0077] - a bracelet element, or
[0078] - a case middle. Alternatively, the watch component 1 may be an internal component for a timepiece 100, such as in particular:
[0079] - a dial,
[0080] - a flange, or
[0081] - a display disc for time information.
[0082] Watch component 1 includes:
[0083] - a substrate 11 made of at least partially transparent material, and
[0084] - a first layer of colored enamel 12 applied, in particular by transfer, to the substrate 11, in particular to a first surface 111 of the substrate 11.
[0085] By "colored enamel layer" is meant a layer of enamel having a coloring visible to the naked eye, regardless of the color of this area. The color can thus in particular be achromatic (white, gray or black). Thus, a "colored layer" generally provides its color to the watch component or contributes to the color of the watch component. The final color or resulting color of the watch component is then a combination of the color of this colored layer, nuanced by that of a possible second finishing layer and that of the substrate if it is not colorless. Preferably, the substrate is colorless, and the resulting color of the watch component is the resulting color of the first enamel layer 12 and of the possible second finishing layer 13.Preferably, the substrate is made of sapphire, a monocrystalline and colorless alumina, and the resulting color of the watch component is the resulting shade of the first enamel layer 12 and the possible second finishing layer 13.
[0086] Preferably:
[0087] - the watch component comprises the first layer of colored enamel 12 applied by decalcomania of a chromo on the substrate 11, in particular on the first surface 1 1 1 of the substrate 1 1, and / or
[0088] - the watch component comprises the second layer 13 for finishing or supporting the decoration or opacifying. The second layer 13 is applied at least in part over the first layer 12. The function of the second layer 13 is in particular to support the color of the colored enamel.
[0089] The term "finishing layer" means the second of the two layers of the envisaged stack, i.e. the one with which the stack is finished or the one which covers the first layer. In places where there is a first layer and a finishing layer, the first layer is interposed between the substrate and the finishing layer. The function of the finishing layer is to be a support layer or an opacifying layer, i.e. to reduce or eliminate the transparency of the decoration formed by the colored layer or, more generally, to support the color of the first colored layer.
[0090] A "supporting layer" means a layer that intensifies or modifies the color of the first layer.
[0091] By "opaque layer" or "opacifying layer" is meant a non-transparent layer, in particular an enamel layer being non-transparent. An opacifying layer reduces the transparency of the assembly that it forms with the structure on which it is applied, compared to the transparency of this structure alone. An opaque layer eliminates all transparency of the assembly that it forms with the structure on which it is applied, regardless of the transparency of this structure. In practice, one cannot see through an opaque layer. In the timepiece 100, the component is advantageously arranged so that the first layer 12 and / or the second layer 13 is visible through the substrate 11 by the wearer of the timepiece 100. In other words, the wearer or user of the watch advantageously sees the side of the first layer in contact with the substrate 11, this vision being achieved through the substrate.The component is made so as to be arranged in such a configuration.
[0092] The first layer and / or the second layer create a decoration, that is, preferably:
[0093] - a graphic element, or
[0094] - a pattern, or
[0095] - a combination of several graphic elements and / or patterns, or
[0096] - a complex design.
[0097] This decoration can be monochrome or made up of several colors.
[0098] The primary function of these first and / or second layers is decorative. They can either completely hide the elements behind the watch component 1 or reveal certain areas through transparency.
[0099] According to a variant, when the watch component 1 is mounted in the rest of the timepiece, no element provides support:
[0100] - against the second layer 13, or
[0101] - against the first layer 12 in the absence (possibly local) of a second layer.
[0102] The watch component 1 has the overall shape of the substrate, the substrate 11 mainly constituting the watch component 1. As shown in FIG. 1, the substrate 11 comprises a first surface 111 and a second surface 112, in particular first and second surfaces 111, 112 which are parallel or substantially parallel. The first and second surfaces 111, 112 may each be of any nature, in particular flat, frustoconical, portion of a torus, convex in a hollow or convex in a projection.
[0103] In Figure 1, by way of example, the surfaces 1 1 1 and 1 12 form faces of the component. These faces are parallel. Alternatively, they could not be parallel. Preferably, in the case of a watch component 1 consisting of a bezel disc, the first and second surfaces are for example two parallel or substantially parallel frustoconical surfaces.
[0104] It is noted in FIG. 1 that the first layer 12 has been applied to the first surface 11 1. The first layer may have been applied to the entire first surface 11 1 or to only a portion of the first surface 11 1 as shown in FIG. 1.
[0105] Likewise, it can be seen in this figure 1 that the second layer 13 has been applied directly above the first surface 1 1 1 , on the assembly formed by a portion of the first surface 1 1 1 of the substrate and the first layer 12. The second layer, like the first layer, can be applied directly above the entire first surface 1 11 or directly above only a part of the first surface 1 1 1 , as shown in figure 1 .
[0106] It follows that, depending on the regions of the first surface, it is possible to encounter, in the material of the watch component, starting from the first surface 1 11 and moving towards the outside of the component (perpendicular to the first surface 1 1 1 ):
[0107] - the first layer 12, then the second layer 13, or
[0108] - the first layer 12 only, or
[0109] - the second layer 13 only, or
[0110] - no layer (the substrate not being coated in the region considered on the first surface 1 1 1 ).
[0111] Due to the transparency of the substrate 11, the first surface 111, in particular the first layer 12 and / or the second layer 13 applied to the first surface, is visible through the second surface 112 and the substrate 11.
[0112] Preferably, the substrate is made from or based on an inorganic material such as:
[0113] - technical ceramics,
[0114] - a quartz,
[0115] - a spinel,
[0116] - a magnesium aluminate,
[0117] - an AION (an aluminum oxynitride),
[0118] - a YAG (Yttrium Aluminum Garnet),
[0119] - cubic zirconia,
[0120] - mineral glass,
[0121] - a polycrystalline alumina,
[0122] - a vitroceramic,
[0123] - a monocrystalline alumina (sapphire).
[0124] Preferably, the first surface 111 has a mirror-polished surface state and / or the second surface 112 has a mirror-polished surface state. However, at least one of the first surface 111 and second surface 112 may have a rougher surface state, for example a frosted surface state. This rough surface state may in particular be obtained by sandblasting and / or satin-finishing and / or brushing; it may be produced by a traditional tool and / or using a laser. This makes it possible to give a matte appearance to the watch component 1. Alternatively, this makes it possible to give a matte appearance to at least a portion of the watch component 1, the portion of the watch component at which the rough surface state is produced.
[0125] The substrate is at least partially transparent. Preferably, the substrate is transparent and colorless. More generally, the substrate may be made of an at least partially transparent material.
[0126] By “at least partially transparent” we mean that:
[0127] - the substrate comprises at least one transparent region, and / or
[0128] - at least one region of the substrate or the entire substrate having a certain degree of transparency, a part of the light not being transmitted through the substrate. This covers, for example, translucent substrates or substrates whose “Real In-line Transmittance to light having a wavelength of 550 nm is greater than 60%, or even 70%, or even 80%, or even 85%”. In other words, there is at least one location on the substrate where at least 60%, or even at least 70%, or even at least 80%, or even at least 85%, of light whose wavelength is 550 nm can pass through the substrate from the second surface to the first surface. According to the reference article E6418 v1, taken from the book “Les Techniques de l'ingénieur” and entitled “Céramiques transparentes - Caractéristiques générales et processus de fabrication” by Rémy Boulesteix and Alexandre Maitre (10.07.2018), transparency can in fact be characterized by measuring the "real in-line transmission" of light, designated by its English acronym RIT (Real In-line Transmission). It is carried out with a small opening angle (of the order of 0.5°) with a spectrophotometer. It corresponds to the ratio of the intensity of the light transmitted through a material sample to the incident intensity. This RIT transparency is a function of the thickness of the sample crossed (x), the wavelength (X) of the light and is given by the Beer-Lambert law.
[0129] RIT(X) = [1 -Rs(X)].e' a(X) x
[0130] Rs are the losses due to reflection from the two surfaces of the sample; they are of the order of 0.14 to 0.16, and can be evaluated using the formula:
[0131] Rs = 2.R'(X) / [1 +R'(X)] where, at normal incidence, R'={[n(X) -1 ] / [n(X) +1 ]} 2
[0132] With n, the refractive index of the material and a(X), the attenuation coefficient of the material, which takes into account the optical losses induced by the various sources of dispersion or absorption of light passing through the material.
[0133] For example, the substrate can be colored.
[0134] Methods of carrying out a method for producing a watch component 1 as mentioned previously are described below.
[0135] Generally, the production process includes the following steps:
[0136] - providing a substrate 11 made of at least partially transparent material, and
[0137] - application of a first layer of colored enamel 12 on a surface of the substrate 11, in particular by transfer.
[0138] Preferably:
[0139] - the application of the first layer of colored enamel 12 on the substrate 11 can be carried out by decalcomania of a chromo on the substrate 11, in particular on the first surface 1 1 1 of the substrate 1 1 , and / or
[0140] - the method may comprise an application of a second finishing layer 13 at least in part on the first layer of colored enamel 12.
[0141] In other words, a solution which is the subject of this document is based on a particular use of the enamel deposited by means of chromo (enamel decalcomania; we specify that the expressions “enamel decalcomania” and “chromo decalcomania” are considered equivalent) on a surface intended to be seen by the user of the watch through the substrate 11. Preferably, this is implemented in two stages:
[0142] - the first layer of enamel, colored, visible through the substrate, represents the decoration,
[0143] - a second layer of enamel, for finishing, removes the transparency of the decoration or more generally, supports the color of the first layer of colored enamel. Preferably, the second layer of enamel is opaque. Preferably, the second layer of enamel is opaque and white.
[0144] This makes it possible to obtain a watch component (for example a bezel disc) that is decorated and unalterable in a reliable, robust and repeatable manner.
[0145] Depending on the embodiments, the second finishing or decorative support or opacifying layer may be:
[0146] - a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel applied by transfer, in particular by chromo decal, and / or
[0147] - a metal-based layer, in particular deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or
[0148] - a layer of another coating, such as paint. Preferably, according to the invention, to produce the watch component 1, for example to produce a bezel disc, the procedure is as follows:
[0149] - we obtain a transparent substrate, preferably sapphire,
[0150] - an enamel decoration is applied by decalcomania of a chromo on a surface of the substrate intended to be seen through the substrate,
[0151] - a finishing or supporting or opacifying layer is applied over the enamel decoration.
[0152] On the contrary, in a traditional manner, to produce the watch component 1, in particular to produce a bezel disc,
[0153] - we obtain a substrate (generally opaque, for decorative watchmaking use),
[0154] - an undercoat is optionally applied to the surface of the substrate which would be seen by the user in the absence of a coating on this surface,
[0155] - an enamel decoration is applied to the said surface of the substrate, possibly previously covered with the undercoat,
[0156] - a glaze (colorless transparent enamel) is applied to the enameled decoration.
[0157] In the case of use of the watch component in the external casing of the watch, it is noted that the external surface of the component can be very frequently subject to aggressions from the external environment. This can harm the durability of the integrity of the decoration if it is deposited on this external surface. The solutions according to the invention offer solutions to this problem by exposing the bare surface of the component to these aggressions, thus protecting the decoration placed on a more sheltered surface and visible by transparency through the substrate.
[0158] More specific implementations are described in more detail below. In a first step, a substrate 11 to be decorated is obtained. The substrate constitutes a part of the watch component 1 and, preferably, the majority of the watch component 1 .
[0159] This substrate must withstand enameling conditions. Thus, it must withstand temperatures above 500°C, preferably above 750°C, allowing the vitrification of the enamel, without suffering damage such as deformation or oxidation.
[0160] Preferably, the substrate should also have sufficient hardness to resist abrasion. The material from which the substrate is made preferably has a Vickers hardness greater than 800 Hv, or even greater than 1000 Hv. This is especially important if the component is an exterior cladding component that may be exposed to mechanical stress.
[0161] In a second step, the first layer of enamel is applied. To do this, the decoration is applied to the substrate 11, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11. Preferably, this decoration is applied by decalcomania. Preferably, one or more chromos are applied by decalcomania to the substrate 11, in particular to the first surface 111 of the substrate 11, i.e., a layer of enamel is applied by decalcomania of one or more chromos. Any different chromos (for example of different colors) may be applied to different regions of the first surface 111, whether juxtaposed or not, and / or they may be at least partially superimposed.
[0162] The decoration whose pattern is determined by the chromo is previously prepared, for example by screen printing, lithography, chromolithography, on transfer paper (or transfer paper). The chromo consists of a colored film deposited on the transfer paper, one of the faces of which is intended to come into contact with the first surface 1 1 1 of the substrate 1 1 during the transfer.
[0163] The film consists of enamel powder mixed with a polymer to ensure its consistency. This film can be transferred (or transferred or transported) from the transfer paper to the first surface of the substrate to create a decoration.
[0164] For example, the application of the chromo is carried out by moistening it in water, in order to separate the film from the transfer paper, before or after applying the film to the substrate (depending on whether the pattern is transferred right side up or upside down). The water and any air bubbles that may be between the substrate and the film are then removed, for example using an elastomer squeegee. Then, it is left to dry, particularly in the air.
[0165] Finally, the substrate on which the film is deposited is fired. This film is made of enamel powder mixed with a polymer. The firing serves on the one hand to remove the polymer and on the other hand to vitrify the enamel. This firing can be done in an oven, in ambient air, at high temperature. Typically, the vitrification heat treatment is obtained above 500°C, preferably above 750°C, for a period of a few minutes, typically 15 minutes. At the end of this step, the substrate is decorated with the colored enamel layer.
[0166] The coefficient of thermal expansion of the enamel used in the chromo must be identical or very close or compatible with that of the substrate in order to guarantee a suitable hold (adhesion) and aesthetics (i.e. not showing cracks, no rippling, nor flaking). The layer 12 being very thin, the tolerance on the difference in coefficient of thermal expansion between this layer 12 and the substrate 11 is greater than in the case of the deposition of a thick layer (for example deposited by traditional enameling): thus, in the case of a chromo, a difference of up to 5%, or even 10%, or even 15%, or even 20%, or even 25%, can be envisaged. A layer of chromo has a thickness typically of the order of 5 to 20 pm, or even 7 to 10 pm after cooking (which can correspond to a thickness of 40 pm to 80 pm when it is raw).This is why it is considered thin compared to a traditionally deposited enamel layer considered thick (typically, more than 100 pm, or even more than 200 pm, or even more than 300 pm after firing). The use of such thin chromo is made possible by the fact that at equal thickness, the color of the chromo is more saturated than that of a traditionally deposited enamel.
[0167] Alternatively, the enamel can be applied by pad printing or direct screen printing to create the decoration. Alternatively, the enamel can be applied in the traditional way, for example with a brush.
[0168] Depending on the intended result, this step of producing the first layer can be repeated. The first layer of enamel constituting the decoration, in particular a colored decoration, can therefore be multi-layered. In this second step, firing is preferably carried out between each application of a layer of enamel on the substrate 11, in particular on the first surface 111 of the substrate 11 or on the previously applied layer. Alternatively, in this second step, a single firing can be carried out once all the layers of enamel have been applied. In a third optional step, the second layer 13 is applied. The second layer is preferably a finishing or support or opacifying layer. The second layer is at least translucent and ideally opacifying. Preferably again, the second layer is a uniformly white and / or opaque layer of enamel.The second layer covers at least part of the decorations made up of the first layer made during the second stage.
[0169] As in the second step, after applying the second layer, a firing is carried out leading to the vitrification of the enamel and the possible elimination of the polymer, if the enamel of the second layer is made using a chromo.
[0170] The coefficient of thermal expansion of the enamel used for the second layer 13 must be identical or very close or compatible with that of the layer on which it is deposited, for the reasons explained previously. For combinations of thin layers 12 and 13, the tolerance on the difference in coefficient of thermal expansion between these layers and the substrate 11 is greater than in the case of the deposition of a thick layer, which offers more possibilities in terms of adhesion and aesthetics.
[0171] This second layer 13 or finishing layer is preferably applied by transfer, in particular by chromo decal, as was the decoration in the second stage.
[0172] Alternatively, the second layer 13 can also be applied by other techniques (pad printing, brush, screen printing, etc.). Different implementation variants can be provided in this third step:
[0173] - The second coat can be any color. Any enamel color can be considered. The color of the second coat may vary depending on where it is applied on the decor and / or the substrate.
[0174] - The opacity of the second layer can be varied: different levels of opacity can be considered, from translucent to completely opaque, depending on the nature of the finishing layer(s). The targeted opacity could also be different depending on where the finishing layers are applied on the decor, and on the substrate.
[0175] - The chemical nature of the topcoat could be varied: any type of inorganic material meeting the criteria of opacity and resistance to environmental stresses could be considered. The chemical nature of the topcoat can also be different depending on where it is applied on the decor. For example:
[0176] * enamel loaded with luminescent zirconia powder or other luminescent inorganic material, or
[0177] * a metallization, or
[0178] * a metal-based layer, in particular nitrides, deposited for example by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition), ALD (Atomic Layer Deposition), PLD (Pulsed Laser Deposition), or any other suitable method, can be used as a finishing layer.
[0179] - The method of applying the finishing layer can therefore be a transfer method, a brush, screen printing, PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, etc., depending on the nature of the layer, its thickness, the level of precision sought (in location, thickness, distribution, etc.).
[0180] - The finishing layer is at least positioned over a portion of the locations decorated during the second step. - The distribution of the finishing layer can be varied over the extent of the first surface 1 1 1:
[0181] * the finishing layer can only be positioned on the locations decorated during the second step, and, in this case, it can be applied to all or part of the decoration,
[0182] * the finishing layer can additionally be positioned on undecorated locations during the second step, and, in this case, it can be on all or part of the undecorated locations,
[0183] - The thickness of the finishing layer can be variable:
[0184] * this thickness can define its opacity level, which can be chosen depending on where it is applied,
[0185] * this thickness can impact the resulting shade of the stacking of the first and second layers 12 and 13.
[0186] Depending on the method of execution of the process, the application of the second layer can be:
[0187] - an application of a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo, and / or
[0188] - an application of a metal-based layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or
[0189] - application of a layer of another coating, such as paint.
[0190] Many variant embodiments can be envisaged. In particular, one or more hollows can be made on the first surface 1 1 1 of the watch component and / or one or more hollows can be made on the second surface 1 12 of the watch component.
[0191] One or more recesses on the first surface and / or on the second surface may be made before the second and third steps mentioned above, and / or one or more recesses on the first surface and / or on the second surface may be made between the second and third steps mentioned above, and / or one or more recesses on the first surface and / or on the second surface may be made after the second and third steps mentioned above.
[0192] When a hollow is made at the first surface after firing the first layer, the hollow can affect:
[0193] - only part of the thickness of the first layer, or
[0194] - the entire thickness of the first layer, or
[0195] - the entire thickness of the first layer and part of the thickness of the substrate 11.
[0196] When a hollow is made at the first surface after the first and second layers have been made, the hollow may affect:
[0197] - only part of the thickness of the second layer, or
[0198] - the entire thickness of the second layer, or
[0199] - the entire thickness of the second layer and part of the thickness of the first layer, or
[0200] - the entire thickness of the second layer and the entire thickness of the first layer, or
[0201] - the entire thickness of the second layer and the entire thickness of the first layer and part of the thickness of the substrate 11.
[0202] Thus, according to the embodiment variants, at least one first hollow 14 can be made on the first surface 111, in particular at least one first hollow 14 made by laser machining, and / or at least one second hollow 15 can be made on the second surface 112, in particular at least one second hollow 15 made by laser machining. Preferably, the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first hollow 14 and / or the at least one second hollow 15, in particular with a metal-based layer, in particular with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD.
[0203] Naturally, a hollow can have any shape or geometry.
[0204] In particular, the thickness of material machined to form a hollow can be the same regardless of the location of the hollow. Thus, the depth of a hollow can be constant, and the distance (measured perpendicular to the surface from which the hollow is made and) which separates:
[0205] - the surface from which the excavation is carried out (this can be the lower surface 1 1 1 , just like the surface 112, or a surface of layers 12 or 13),
[0206] - a surface defining the bottom of the hollow, can be the same and correspond to the depth of the hollow, regardless of the location of the hollow.
[0207] Alternatively, the depth of a hollow may be scalable, that is, it may change depending on the location(s) of the hollow considered. In particular, the height (or depth) of the sides or walls that define the outline of a hollow may change and is therefore not necessarily constant. Furthermore, the surface defining the bottom of the hollow is therefore not necessarily parallel to the surface from which it is made.
[0208] The sides or walls can also form an oblique angle (constant or variable) opposite, for example, the surface from which the hollow is made and / or opposite the surface defining the bottom of the hollow. In other words, the angle formed by:
[0209] - the direction in which the digging is carried out, with
[0210] - the normal to the surface from which it is performed can be any, allowing any type of design.
[0211] More generally, the area of material machined or ablated at any plane perpendicular to the direction in which the hollowing is carried out, arranged between:
[0212] - the surface from which the excavation is carried out (this can be the lower surface 1 1 1 , just like the surface 112, or a surface of the layers 12 or 13), and
[0213] - a surface defining the bottom of the hollow, may be constant or not depending on the considered position of the plane between the surface from which the hollow is made and a surface defining the bottom of the hollow. In other words, the area of ablated material at a plane perpendicular to the direction in which the hollow is made, arranged between the surface from which the hollow is made and a surface defining the bottom of the hollow, may be scalable depending on the direction in which the hollow is made. The area of ablated material at any plane parallel to the direction in which the hollow is made may also be constant or not. In other words, the area of ablated material at any plane parallel to the direction in which the hollow is made may be scalable in a direction orthonormal to the direction in which the hollow is made.
[0214] The areas of ablated material concerned can be of a millimetric order of magnitude (for example between 1 mm 2 and 15 mm 2 ), micrometric (for example between 1 pm 2 and 3 pm 2 ), nanometric (i.e. any surface area less than 1 pm 2 ) or the areas concerned with ablated material may be those of surfaces whose dimension is of an order of magnitude:
[0215] - millimetric (between 0.5 mm and 10 mm, or even between 1 mm and 5 mm), or
[0216] - micrometric (between 0.5 pm and 200 pm, or even between 1 pm and 50 pm), or
[0217] - nanometric (between 50 nm and 500 nm, or even between 200 nm and 400 nm). In other words, a hollow can have a millimetric, micrometric or nanometric area, particularly at the level of a surface defining the bottom of the hollow and / or at the level of the surface from which it is made.
[0218] These variations can be combined to create different optical effects, including producing color shades and gradients.
[0219] Furthermore, it is specified that these machining operations or ablations can be carried out in the chromo both before and after cooking.
[0220] Several examples are described below in detail regarding the realization:
[0221] - an ice cream,
[0222] - a two-tone bezel, and
[0223] - a two-tone bezel with metallic recesses.
[0224] The first example concerns the manufacture of a watch crystal, notably in sapphire, presenting two shades of red.
[0225] The first step consists of obtaining a watch crystal, for example made of sapphire. For example, the lower surface 11 1 and / or the upper surface 1 12 are flat. The second step consists of creating the decoration (first layer 12). In this step, a red chromo is obtained (prepared beforehand, in particular by screen printing a colored enamel on transfer paper). By dipping it in deionized water, the colored enamel film peels off the transfer paper. This film is then applied to the lower surface 1 1 1 of the watch crystal (the face intended to be inside the watch case). The watch crystal is then fired at 800°C for 15 minutes in a furnace. The temperature rise is rapid (approximately 30 minutes) and cooling takes place over an equivalent period, so that the complete heat treatment allowing the vitrification of the enamel lasts less than an hour and a half.
[0226] The third step consists of creating the finishing layer (second layer 13). In this third step, a layer of white, opaque enamel is applied over part of the decorative layer previously applied in the second step. The finishing layer is, for example, a layer of enamel, applied using a chromo in the same way as the decoration in the second step. The watch crystal is then typically fired at 800°C for 15 minutes in a furnace. The temperature rise is rapid (around 30 minutes) and cooling takes place over an equivalent period, so that the complete heat treatment allowing the vitrification of the enamel lasts less than an hour and a half.
[0227] This results in a watch crystal with two shades of red: - a first shade of red (translucent red) where only the red enamel has been applied. The appearance is translucent and clear. At the location of this part of the decoration, one can see through the crystal, and - a second shade of red (opaque red) where a finishing layer of opaque white enamel has been deposited on the red enamel. The appearance is red, more intense and is opaque. One cannot see through the crystal at these locations.
[0228] It is thus possible to offer various decorations made according to this same principle, such as watch crystals with fine translucent or transparent decorations in places, and opaque in other locations which would constitute, for example, signs, graduations or indexes.
[0229] The second example concerns the manufacture of a bezel disc in two-tone red and black sapphire.
[0230] In the first step, a sapphire bezel disc is obtained, with a mirror-polished surface. Its upper surface 1 12 (the one that will be directly seen by the user when the disc is in place on the timepiece) is for example curved. The lower surface 1 1 1 (the one that will be seen indirectly, i.e. through the substrate, by the user when the disc is in place on the timepiece) is for example flat.
[0231] In the second step, the decoration is created by applying the first layer. To do this, chromos are obtained (one black and one red, prepared beforehand, in particular by screen printing enamel on transfer paper) to create the part intended to be black and the one intended to be red. The chromos are soaked in deionized water so that the transfer papers peel off the colored enamel films. These films are then placed on the lower surface 1 1 1. The black film is positioned on one half of the lower surface of the sapphire disc and the red film is positioned on the other half of the lower surface of the sapphire disc. A firing at 800°C for 15 minutes is then carried out in an oven. The temperature rise rate is rapid (about 30 minutes) and the cooling takes place over an equivalent time, so that the complete heat treatment lasts less than an hour and a half.Alternatively, a single chromo comprising a black area and a red area can be used.
[0232] One or more marks may be made on the substrate to assist in positioning the chromo film on the first surface 1 1 1. Advantageously, the mark(s) may be positioned on the first surface or on a surface adjacent to the first surface. Advantageously again, the mark(s) may be made of a material that disappears during vitrification of the enamel.
[0233] In the third step, a finishing layer is created. To do this, a layer of opaque white enamel is applied over the entire area previously enameled in the second step. The finishing layer is also obtained using a chromo, applied in the same way as the decoration in the second step. This results in a lower surface 1 1 1 seen through the substrate with a first half of opaque red color and a second half of opaque black color.
[0234] The bezel disc, with opaque decoration, can then be clipped into a steel ring to form a bezel. Any technical parts of the bezel can be highlighted by the areas that remain transparent after the decorations are made on the lower surface 1 1 1 of the disc. The third example concerns the manufacture of a bezel disc in two-tone red and black sapphire with metallized hollows.
[0235] The decoration of the disc obtained in the second example described above can be continued to obtain the third example comprising metallic hollows or engravings.
[0236] We use a disk obtained according to the procedure described in the second example.
[0237] The upper surface 1 12 is then covered with a protective resin.
[0238] Then, hollows are made, in particular with a femtosecond laser on the upper surface 1 12, through the resin.
[0239] Then, a metallic coating, particularly platinum, is deposited by PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) on the upper surface.
[0240] Then the resin layer is dissolved, leaving only the metal coating at the bottom of the hollows.
[0241] A sapphire disc with a two-tone appearance is obtained, with strong and opaque colors. The engraved signs (formed by the hollows) on the upper surface 1 12 have a metallic appearance following the PVD deposition.
[0242] As in the second example, the bezel disc can then be clipped into a steel ring to form a bezel. Any technical parts can be highlighted by the areas remaining transparent after the decorations made on the lower surface. Thanks to the solutions described, it is possible to obtain both the advantages of the chromo decoration and those of the sapphire substrate, in a synergistic manner due to the innovative configuration proposed.
[0243] Chromo decoration provides aesthetic advantages, due to the wide range of enamel colors available, and without design limitations (only the resolution of the chromo is to be taken into account; for example, when it is produced by screen printing, the resolution is that of the mesh of the chosen frame). The enamel deposited by the chromo technique has very good adhesion. However, for this to happen, the thermal expansion coefficients of the enamels must be adapted to that of the substrate. Enamels offer the advantage of guaranteeing the possible use of the component produced over very wide temperature ranges, as well as excellent resistance to thermal shock, UV rays, humidity (even combined with high temperatures), and chemicals. Chromo is not reserved for flat surfaces. Indeed, the film can be deposited on raised surfaces (for example, it is suitable for a disc with a truncated or curved surface).Chromo is not reserved for surfaces delimited by partitions, because the film is a coherent object (unlike traditional enamel, which is deposited in the form of a fluid, so partitions must be provided to hold it in the location for which it is intended). Chromo deposition is more repeatable and automatable than traditional brush enameling. It is thus possible to obtain high quality production in series.
[0244] As a material for producing the substrate 11, sapphire is preferred. Sapphire has excellent scratch resistance due to its very high hardness. For the application of watch components, the fact that the upper surface 112 of the component (the one exposed to possible mechanical attacks) is made of sapphire makes it possible to offer a solution at least as good as current ceramic solutions. Indeed, the hardness of sapphire is equivalent to that of polycrystalline alumina used to produce certain components, and greater than that of zirconia used to produce other components.
[0245] Furthermore, sapphire has excellent breaking strength. To produce a watch component, the fact that the upper surface 1 12 of the component is made of sapphire makes it possible to offer a solution at least as good as the currently known solutions. Indeed, on average, the breaking strength of sapphire is -1700 MPa along the A axis and -3500 MPa along the C axis, which is higher than the breaking strength of zirconia (-1300 MPa), itself higher than that of polycrystalline alumina (-500 MPa).
[0246] New advantages are obtained by the combination of sapphire and chromo in the proposed innovative configuration (application of the chromo on a surface visible through the substrate, allowing the use of an opacifying finishing layer):
[0247] - The proposed solution, combining sapphire and enamel decoration, is entirely inorganic and therefore unalterable to UV rays, over very wide temperature ranges, humidity (even combined with high temperatures), and chemicals, without having to seal the decoration. In addition, it is resistant to abrasion.
[0248] - The decoration being at a distance from the upper surface 1 12 of the substrate directly visible to the user (decoration under the sapphire), the arrangement results in a visual and aesthetic effect of depth. This effect can be further amplified by the rounded geometry in hollow or domed projection of the substrate surface directly visible to the user.
[0249] - The design allows for the superposition of treatments and effects. For example: * a treatment can be carried out on the upper surface 1 12 of the sapphire, in particular an anti-reflective treatment, and / or
[0250] * hollows can be made on the upper surface 1 12 and / or lower surface 1 1 1 of the sapphire.
[0251] - You can choose aesthetic effects based on the colors of the colored layer and where you position it.
[0252] - Transparency levels and aesthetic effects can be adjusted by adjusting the opacity and color of the topcoat and where it is applied. For masking purposes, opaque layers can be used.
[0253] The solutions described are very favorable from an industrial point of view in the sense that they allow for high production quality due to the repeatability of the watch component production process.
[0254] In particular, the solutions described allow treatment of the upper surface 112 of the sapphire after having carried out the steps of providing a substrate, applying a first layer and applying a second layer. To carry out this treatment, it is possible to take advantage of the transparency of the substrate and, consequently, to locate the treatment position of the upper surface 112 by referring to the decoration produced on the lower surface 111. This makes it possible to position, by observation / shape recognition of the decoration, the treatment to be carried out on the upper surface.It is thus possible to produce one or more hollows on the upper surface 112, at precise locations relative to the enamel decoration previously produced on the lower surface 111 of the timepiece component, that is to say to produce one or more hollows on the upper surface 112 using a decoration formed by the first layer of enamel as a reference, in particular as a machining reference. Conversely, it is possible to produce an enamel decoration on the lower surface 111 of the timepiece component at precise locations relative to one or more hollows previously produced on the upper surface 112, that is to say to produce a decoration formed by the first layer of enamel using as a reference one or more hollows on the upper surface 112.
[0255] The solutions described also make it possible to easily produce a large number of component variants. Indeed, from a series of identical substrates 1 1 and depending on the options chosen to produce the first and second layers, it is possible to ultimately obtain watch components with very varied appearances.
[0256] In summary, to obtain a decorated, unalterable and declinable watch component without limitation of choice of graphic elements, patterns, shapes and colors or their associations, according to any spatial distribution, (that is to say without limitation of design), it is proposed to produce a first layer of enamel on a partially transparent or transparent substrate, this first layer of enamel being intended to be seen through the substrate. The first layer of enamel can be produced by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo, and / or the first layer of enamel can be at least partially covered with a second opacifying layer, in particular a second white opacifying layer.
[0257] In this document, "transfer" means any process for transferring, transferring or transporting enamel onto a surface to be enamelled according to an already established design, i.e. already formed before transfer, transfer or transport. This may include:
[0258] - pad printing, or
[0259] - direct screen printing, or - programmed application using inkjet printing.
[0260] When it comes to transferring a film (enamel powder mixed with a polymer) from transfer paper to a surface to be enamelled, this transfer can be a decal, in particular a waterslide decal.
[0261] This creates a reverse use of chromo-type enameling by using the second opacifying layer to cooperate with the first layer in order to help create the decoration. The user therefore sees:
[0262] - the first layer, possibly formed by the use of a chromo, through the substrate, and
[0263] - possibly, the second layer through the substrate and the first layer.
[0264] In a prior art use of a chromo, the result is quite different: in fact, the user usually sees the decoration through a layer of colorless and transparent enamel (covered) covering it to protect it, the enamel being applied to an opaque substrate.
Claims
Claims: Watch component (1) comprising: - a substrate (11) made of at least partially transparent material, - a first layer of colored enamel (12) applied to the substrate (11), in particular applied by transfer to the substrate (11), in particular by decalcomania of a chromo on the substrate (11), and - a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second opacifying finishing layer (13), applied at least in part to the first colored enamel layer (12). Watch component (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the substrate is made of an inorganic material such as a technical ceramic, a quartz, a spinel, a magnesium aluminate, an AION, a YAG, a cubic zirconia, a mineral glass, a polycrystalline alumina, a glass-ceramic, a monocrystalline alumina and / or in that the substrate has at least locally a value of the real in-line transmission or Real In-line Transmittance for light having a wavelength of 550 nm greater than 60% or 70% or 80% or 85%. Watch component (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the substrate has a hardness greater than 800 Hv or 1000 Hv.Watch component (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second finishing layer is: - a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel applied by transfer, and / or - a metal-based layer, in particular deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or - a layer of another coating, such as a paint. Watch component (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the watch component (1) is an external covering component for a timepiece (100), such as in particular: - an ice cream, - a background, - a bezel disc, - a bracelet element, or - a case middle, or in that the watch component (1) is an internal component for a timepiece (100), such as in particular: - a dial, - a flange, or - a display disc for timepiece information. Timepiece component (1) according to one of the preceding claims, characterized: - in that the substrate (1 1 ) comprises a first surface (1 1 1 ) and a second surface (1 12), in particular a second surface (1 12) parallel or substantially parallel to a first surface (11 1 ), - in that the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13) are applied to the first surface (1 1 1 ), and - in that the first surface (1 1 1 ), in particular the first layer and / or the second layer applied to the first surface, is visible through the second surface (1 12) and the substrate (1 1 ). Watch component (1) according to claim 6, characterized in that the substrate (11) comprises at least one second hollow (15) made on the second surface (112), in particular at least one second hollow (15) made by laser machining. Watch component (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the at least one second hollow (15) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Watch component (1) according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that the substrate (11) has an anti-reflective treatment on the second surface (112).Watch component (1) according to one of the preceding claims and according to claim 6, characterized in that the substrate (11) comprises at least one first hollow (14) made on the first surface (111) after application of the first and second layers, in particular at least one first hollow (14) made by laser machining. Watch component (1) according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the at least one first hollow (14) is coated, in particular coated with a metal-based layer, in particular coated with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Watch component (1) according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that the at least one first hollow (14) is such that the area. of ablated material at a plane perpendicular to a direction in which the at least one first hollow is made, arranged between: - the surface from which the at least one first hollow is made, in particular the lower surface (1 1 1 ) or a surface of the first layer (12) or a surface of the second layer (13), and - a surface defining the bottom of the at least one first hollow, is scalable according to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made, and / or is such that the area of ablated material at any plane parallel to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made is scalable according to a direction orthonormal to the direction in which the at least one first hollow is made. Timepiece component (1) according to one of claims 10 to 12, characterized in that the at least one first hollow (14) has a millimetric or micrometric or nanometric area, in particular at a surface defining the bottom of the hollow and / or at the surface from which it is made. Method for producing a timepiece component (1), the method comprising the following steps: - providing a substrate (11) made of at least partially transparent material, - application of a first layer of colored enamel (12) on the substrate (11), in particular application of the first layer of colored enamel (12) on the substrate (11) by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo on the substrate (1 1 ), and - application of a second finishing layer (13), in particular a second finishing layer (13) opacifying at least in part on the first layer of colored enamel (12). Production method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the application of the second layer is: - an application of a layer of enamel, in particular a layer of enamel by transfer, in particular by decalcomania of a chromo, and / or - an application of a metal-based layer, in particular by PVD, CVD, ALD, PLD, and / or - application of a layer of another coating, such as a paint. Production method according to one of claims 14 and 15, characterized in that it comprises a step of producing at least one first hollow (14) on a first surface (1 1 1 ) of the substrate (1 1 ), in particular at least one first hollow (14) produced by laser machining, and / or in that it comprises a step of producing at least one second hollow (15) on a second surface (1 12) of the substrate (1 1 ), in particular at least one second hollow (15) produced by laser machining. Production method according to claim 16, characterized in that the step of producing at least one first hollow and / or the step of producing at least one second hollow are carried out after the step of applying the first layer of enamel (12) to the substrate (11), and in that, in the step of producing at least one first hollow and / or the step of producing at least a second hollow, a decoration formed by the first layer of enamel is used as a reference, in particular as a machining reference. Production method according to one of claims 16 and 17, characterized in that the method comprises a step of coating the at least one first hollow (14) and / or the at least one second hollow (15), in particular with a metal-based layer, in particular with a metal-based layer deposited by PVD, CVD, ALD or PLD. Timepiece (100) comprising a timepiece component (1) according to one of claims 1 to 13, in particular a timepiece component (1) according to one of claims 6 to 13 arranged so that the first surface (111), in particular the first layer (12) and / or the second layer (13), is visible through the second surface (112) and the substrate (11) by the wearer of the timepiece (100).