Care and / or cosmetic coloring composition

Abstract

The present invention relates to a preferably water-free care and / or cosmetic composition for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips, comprising, in a physiologically compatible medium: (i) zinc oxide; and (ii) one or more photosensitive colorants selected from the group consisting of colorants and organic pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetology and in particular to coloring care and / or make-up cosmetic compositions for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, eyelids, eyelashes or lips. Background Art

[0002] Tinted waterless skin or lip care and / or makeup products are sought after by consumers for their covering and staying power properties, and add color to the skin and / or lip makeup effect.

[0003] Hiding properties are usually provided by white pigments and / or fillers, and titanium dioxide is used, in particular, for its strong opacity and hiding power. Color is provided by organic and / or inorganic coloring materials, some of which are known to be photosensitive. This sensitivity may lead to instability of surface color or chromaticity when the composition is exposed to light. Color or chromaticity on the surface of a composition exposed to light may lose intensity and / or saturation; the surface of a composition is also known to change color under light. Therefore, it is sought to retain and protect the photosensitive coloring material to avoid these changes in chromaticity or color.

[0004] Surprisingly, the Applicant has demonstrated that the use of zinc oxide particles, in particular in anhydrous compositions comprising photosensitive coloring materials, allows protection of said coloring materials and thus improves the stability of the color and chromaticity of the composition. Zinc oxide particles are therefore particularly advantageous as an alternative to titanium dioxide particles in the formulation of care and / or make-up compositions to provide hiding power and to protect photosensitive coloring materials. The use of these zinc oxide particles thus allows a stable chromaticity to be obtained, even with the use of photosensitive pigments, which cannot be achieved with titanium dioxide. Summary of the invention

[0005] A first aspect of the invention is therefore a preferably anhydrous care and / or make-up cosmetic composition for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0006] (i) zinc oxide particles, and

[0007] (ii) one or more photosensitive coloring materials selected from colorants and organic pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0008] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is an anhydrous composition.

[0009] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, preferably the lips, which comprises applying to said keratin materials a composition according to the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0010] The present invention therefore relates to a preferably anhydrous care and / or make-up cosmetic composition for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0011] (i) zinc oxide particles, and

[0012] (ii) one or more photosensitive coloring materials selected from colorants and organic pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0013] "Anhydrous composition" means in particular that water is preferably not intentionally added to the composition of the invention, but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, or even completely free of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a specific embodiment, the composition is free of water.

[0014] According to one embodiment, the composition is a fluid or liquid, ie it flows under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0015] According to another embodiment, the composition is in the form of a powder, in particular a loose powder.

[0016] According to another embodiment, the composition is a solid composition. Preferably, the solid composition comprises one or more waxes.

[0017] According to the present invention, a "solid composition" means a composition which does not flow under its own weight at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, as opposed to a liquid or fluid composition or a loose powder.

[0018] The composition may in particular be in the form of a compact or a stick, or a composition packaged in a cup.

[0019] "Pressed powder" means a solid composition based on powders, which is different from loose powders. Pressed powders are usually prepared by mixing all the ingredients of the granular phase and then adding the liquid phase to the mixture under stirring. The mixture is then poured into a cup, bucket or mold and compacted. Compacting is usually carried out at a pressure of 5 MPa to 25 MPa and results in a reduction in the volume of the compacted composition.

[0020] powder phase

[0021] The pulverulent phase of the composition comprises fillers and pigments.

[0022] The composition of the invention comprises in particular zinc oxide particles.

[0023] Zinc oxide particles

[0024] Zinc oxide particles appear as white powder and are insoluble in water.

[0025] The zinc oxide particles can be in non-uniform form, typically hexagonal and cubic.

[0026] The zinc oxide particles used according to the present invention are pigmentary zinc oxide particles and not zinc oxide nanoparticles used as mineral sunscreens.

[0027] The average size of the zinc oxide particles used according to the invention generally ranges from 0.1 μm (micrometers) to 50 μm, in particular from 0.1 μm to 10 μm, or even from 0.1 μm to 1 μm.

[0028] The particle size may be measured by laser diffraction profilometry using an apparatus of the Malvern Mastersizer type from Malvern, in particular by measuring the value D

[50] which represents the largest dimension exhibited by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0029] Mention may in particular be made of the commercial reference RONACARE ZINC OXIDE from the company Merck, or the reference A120-ZnO-11S3 from the company Kobo, or the reference ZINC OXIDE COSMETICS from the company Keyser & Mackay / Grillo.

[0030] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the zinc oxide particles contain more than 80% by weight of ZnO, in particular more than 95%, 96%, 97%, 98% or 99% by weight of ZnO, or even 100% of ZnO.

[0031] The zinc oxide particles used according to the invention may be treated with a lipophilic treatment agent for better dispersion in the fatty phase, or may be untreated.

[0032] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the zinc oxide particles are not treated and they have the INCI name: Zinc Oxide.

[0033] According to another particular embodiment, the zinc oxide particles are treated with a lipophilic treating agent.

[0034] The zinc oxide particles may also be mixed with a wetting agent to facilitate their dispersion in the composition and thereby improve the homogeneity of the composition.

[0035] According to a specific embodiment, the content of zinc oxide particles in the composition of the present invention generally ranges from 0.1 wt % to 50 wt % of zinc oxide, particularly from 1 wt % to 30 wt % of zinc oxide, preferably from 2 wt % to 20 wt % of zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0036] For pressed powder compositions (eg eye shadow, foundation), the total content of zinc oxide particles is generally in the range of 1 wt % to 50 wt %, preferably 5 wt % to 40 wt % (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] For anhydrous solid compositions other than powders for use on the skin (e.g. skin tone correctors), the total content of zinc oxide particles generally ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably from 1% to 20% by weight (of zinc oxide), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] For anhydrous solid compositions for lips (eg lipstick), the total content of zinc oxide particles generally ranges from 0.1 to 30 wt %, preferably from 0.5 to 20 wt % (of zinc oxide) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] According to a particular and preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 3% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight, of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, or is even free of titanium dioxide.

[0040] According to an even more preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is free of titanium dioxide.

[0041] The composition also comprises one or more photosensitive coloring materials.

[0042] Photosensitive coloring materials

[0043] Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "coloring material" means a compound capable of producing a coloring optical effect when formulated in a sufficient amount in a suitable cosmetic medium. The coloring material is generally selected from pigments (insoluble in oil and water phases) and colorants (soluble in oil or water phases).

[0044] The coloring material may consist of materials of mineral, synthetic or natural origin.

[0045] According to a particular embodiment, the coloring material is of mineral or synthetic origin.

[0046] The coloring material may be treated with a lipophilic treating agent, or may be untreated.

[0047] The photosensitive colorant useful in the composition of the present invention may be selected from colorants and organic pigments and / or their salts, composite pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] "Photosensitive coloring material" means a coloring material in a formulation whose color (e.g., one coloring material) or chromaticity (e.g., a mixture of coloring materials) is not stable after the composition is exposed to light. The stability of color or chromaticity can be observed by a professional colorist with the naked eye, or by using a spectrocolorimeter by calculating the color difference ΔE between two samples (irradiated and control). 00 A photolabile color or shade is one that loses intensity and / or saturation. The surface of a composition is also considered to change color when exposed to light.

[0049] In order to select coloring materials that are light-sensitive and can be used in the composition of the invention, the following test (also called "sunlight test") can be used in particular, which is intended to identify coloring materials in a formulation whose color or chromaticity is affected by exposure to light (for example for 16 hours):

[0050] - the coloring material is usually pre-dispersed (pigments) or dissolved (colorants) in oil, and the mixture (also called "pigment paste") is then uniformly dispersed in an oily or fatty matrix (including, by way of example, hydrocarbon oils and waxes as described below);

[0051] - The composition obtained in the previous step is then placed in two bowls, one as a control and the other irradiated for example for 16 hours; using a Sun Test XLS type device with a Store light-reducing infrared filter at 500 W / m 2 The power was irradiated for 16 hours;

[0052] - by a professional colorist who observes and describes the color or chromaticity of each composition or by measuring the color difference ΔE according to the protocol described below 00 To evaluate the chromaticity of the irradiated composition compared to the control composition (not irradiated);

[0053] - Chromaticity that changes (e.g., loses intensity and / or saturation, changes color) under irradiated conditions compared to control conditions (e.g., ΔE between irradiated composition and unirradiated control) 00A measured value of greater than 1, particularly greater than 3, more particularly greater than 8, or even greater than 10) indicates that the coloring material in the formulation is a light-sensitive coloring material and can be used in the present invention in combination with zinc oxide particles that will prevent such discoloration.

[0054] The parameter ΔE was evaluated according to the following scheme 00 .

[0055] The colorimetric parameters of the composition are measured using a spectrocolorimeter, such as a d / 8° spectrocolorimeter (COLORi7800 X Rite).

[0056] The device was used in the included high light mode with a 17mm aperture window and a UV-free light source.

[0057] Spectral measurements were performed on each sample before and after irradiation.

[0058] Colorimetric values ​​were calculated in the CIELAB76 space, where L* represents color intensity, a* represents the green / red axis, and b* represents the blue / yellow axis, illumination D65, observer 10°.

[0059] Color differences were calculated to evaluate the colorimetric evolution of the samples between the chromaticity of the irradiated composition and the control composition: clarity difference DL*ab, chroma difference DC*ab, chromaticity difference DH*ab (ISO / CIE 11664-4:2019) and overall color difference ΔE as determined by the definition of CIE (ISO / CIE 11664-6:2014) 00 .

[0060] As an example of implementing this test, the following oily and fatty matrices can be used:

[0061] [Table 1]

[0062] Ingredients (INCI name) weight% Polyisobutylene Qsp100 Octyldodecanol 14.5 Disteardimethylammonium hectorite 1.7 wax 25 Cholesterol ester 8.3 Polyglycerol esters 6 Calcium carbonate 5

[0063] This mixture is used as a dispersion matrix (after melting) for a two-color pigment preparation having equal contents of TiO2 (opacifier) ​​and the coloring material to be tested. The mixture "matrix + TiO2 pigment paste + coloring material pigment paste" is adjusted to a level that closely reflects the chromaticity saturation present in products currently on the market; the texture is adjusted by adding polyglycerol esters. The pigment paste is a dispersion of a coloring material of known concentration in a polyglycerol ester prepared extemporaneously. For example, 60% of this matrix is ​​mixed with 5% TiO2 pigment paste (3% TiO2 pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), 10% of the pigment paste to be tested Red 28 Lake (3% Red 28 Lake pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester) and 25% polyglycerol ester (so that the composition is 100%). The mixture is heated to 95°C and homogenized using a rotor-stator to ensure good color uniformity. The product is poured into a mold at a temperature of about 90°C. The product was left to stand at room temperature for a few minutes and then placed in a refrigerator for 5 minutes. Finally, the product was removed from the mold or left in the mold and left to stand for at least 24 hours before the sunlight test.

[0064] The steps of the protocol were followed and the sunlight test was used to evaluate whether the irradiated chromaticity changed compared to the control chromaticity. Compositions for which a color change was observed indicated that the coloring material tested was photosensitive.

[0065] The applicant has tested in particular the colorants and organic pigments Red 28 Lake, Red 6 Salt, Blue 1 Lake and mica-based nacres coated with Red 6 according to this protocol, which showed changes in chromaticity, with Red 28 Lake showing the greatest change, being the most photosensitive.

[0066] Thus, among the “photosensitive colorants and organic pigments (e.g. paints)” that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of in particular the compounds Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake, Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45411), Red 29, Red 30 Lake (CI 45412), Red 31, Red 32 Lake (CI 45413), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 45414), Red 34, Red 35 Lake (CI 45415), Red 35, Red 36 Lake (CI 45416), Red 36, Red 37 Lake (CI 45417), Red 38, Red 39 Lake (CI 45418), Red 39, Red 40 Lake (CI 45419), Red 31, Red 32 Lake (CI 45419), Red 32, Red 33 Lake (CI 45419), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 45419), Red 34, Red 35 Lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 15880), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, Carmine and / or its salts (especially sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6 Na Salt Lake, Red 6 Ba Salt Lake) and mixtures thereof; especially Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (CI 15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof.

[0067] A "paint" is an organic pigment comprising at least one organic colorant deposited on an inert support (also referred to as a "substrate"). In particular, paints comprising a matrix selected from aluminum (Al), barium sulfate (Ba) or calcium rosinate (Ca) matrices will be used. For example, Red 28 Al Lake is a paint comprising an aluminum matrix on which a Red 28 colorant is deposited.

[0068] According to a more specific embodiment, the composition comprises at least one colorant or organic pigment (e.g., a paint) selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or their sodium or barium salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or their sodium or barium salts and mixtures thereof, more preferably Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or their sodium or barium salts and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Within the meaning of the present invention, "composite pigment" means a pigment comprising a matrix and a mineral pigment and / or an organic pigment embedded and / or encapsulated in the matrix. Thus, the photosensitive composite pigment that can be used according to the present invention comprises a matrix and at least one of the above-mentioned photosensitive colorants or organic pigments.

[0070] In general, composite pigments produced by encapsulating and / or coating mineral and / or organic pigments in or on a matrix or base having different properties provide the pigment with new optical properties: in particular great transparency while providing obscuring properties.

[0071] The substrate may be a matrix or core comprising at least one inorganic material and / or at least one organic material.

[0072] Therefore, the photosensitive composite pigment according to the invention comprises an inorganic and / or organic matrix, in particular silicon dioxide, borosilicate or aluminum oxide, and mixtures thereof, in which at least one of the above-mentioned colorants or organic pigments is embedded or enclosed.

[0073] The inorganic material of the matrix of the composite pigment can be selected from: mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass or borosilicate flakes, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, titanium oxide, hydroxyapatite, silicon dioxide, silicate, zinc oxide, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, alumina, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, mineral clay, synthetic clay and mixtures thereof.

[0074] The organic material of the composite pigment matrix may be selected from the group consisting of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA), polyamide, silicone, polyurethane, polyethylene, polypropylene, polystyrene, polysaccharides, cellulose, polyvinyl alcohol, polyethylene resin, wax, and mixtures thereof.

[0075] In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, at least one colorant or organic pigment of the composite pigment is selected from the above-mentioned photosensitive colorants and organic pigments and mixtures thereof, and the matrix is ​​selected from silica (more particularly silica spheres), borosilicate, alumina or mixtures thereof.

[0076] According to a particular embodiment, the composite pigment is treated on the surface, in particular by a lipophilic treatment agent, and the coating obtained may be continuous or discontinuous.

[0077] "Pearlescent pigment" (also called "mother-of-pearl" or "reflective particles") means a pigment having a multilayer structure (different from the above-mentioned composite pigment without a multilayer structure), the pigment comprising a matrix (e.g. mica, bismuth oxychloride) covered with at least one colorant or organic pigment as described above, and the size, structure and physical and chemical properties of the layers of the pigment and its surface state are such that incident light can be reflected, thereby producing bright spots on the skin after applying the composition containing the pearlescent pigment.

[0078] As nacres that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of colored pearlescent pigments based on mica and at least one of the above-mentioned colorants or organic pigments. Mention may be made, in particular, of nacres based on synthetic mica and Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) or Carmine, or mixtures thereof. Mention may be made of the commercial references No. and Mother of Pearl Series.

[0079] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more photosensitive coloring materials selected from:

[0080] (i) colorants and organic pigments, the colorants and organic pigments are selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake, Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI45410), Red 30, Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 73360), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 73361), Red 35, Red 35 Lake (CI 73362), Red 36, Red 36 Lake (CI 73363), Red 37, Red 37 Lake (CI 73364), Red 38, Red 38 Lake (CI 73365), Red 39, Red 40, Red 41 Lake (CI 73366), Red 41, Red 42, Red 43 Lake (CI 73367), Red 43, Red 44 Lake (CI 73368), Red 45, Red 46 Lake (CI 73369), Red 47, Red 47 Lake (CI 73368), Red 48, Red 49, Red 50 Lake (CI 73369), Red 49, Red 40 Lake (CI 73369), Red 48, 15880), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, Carmine and / or its salts (especially sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6Na Salt Lake, Red 6Ba Salt Lake) and mixtures thereof, especially Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof;

[0081] (ii) composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic matrix (especially silica, borosilicate or alumina) in which at least one of the above-mentioned colorants or organic pigments is embedded or enclosed, and mixtures thereof;

[0082] (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a matrix, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the colorants or organic pigments mentioned above, and mixtures thereof, in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with a colorant or organic pigment selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof;

[0083] (iv) and mixtures thereof;

[0084] More preferably, it is selected from the following colorants or organic pigments, or composite pigments, or mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof: the colorant or organic pigment is selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 and Red 28 Lake (CI45410); the composite pigment comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); the mother-of-pearl comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410).

[0085] In particular, the total content of the photosensitive coloring material in the composition of the present invention ranges from 0.001 to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.01 to 40% by weight, and particularly from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] For pressed powder compositions (eg, eye shadow, foundation), the total content of the photosensitive coloring material generally ranges from 0.001 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0087] For anhydrous solid compositions other than powders for skin use (eg skin color correctors), the total content of the photosensitive coloring material ranges generally from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0088] For an anhydrous solid composition for lips such as lipstick, the total content of the photosensitive coloring material ranges generally from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0089] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises another additional ingredient chosen from additional coloring materials, fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Additional coloring materials

[0091] The composition may also comprise one or more additional coloring materials, different from the photosensitive powdered coloring material as defined above.

[0092] These additional coloring materials may be chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials (soluble or insoluble in the fatty phase of the composition), composite pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0093] According to a particular embodiment, the additional colorant is chosen in particular from: mineral pigments different from zinc oxide; organic pigments; composite pigments; nacres; colorants; and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Among the mineral pigments other than zinc oxide, mention may be made of iron oxides (in particular black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides), manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide and ferric blue.

[0095] Preferably, the composition comprises one or more iron oxides.

[0096] Among the "additional colorants or organic pigments" there may be mentioned Green 3, Green 5, Orange 10, Violet 2, Red 17, Green 6, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown, Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow and / or their varnishes and / or their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0097] Among the “additional composite pigments”, mention may be made of those formed of a matrix and an inorganic pigment (for example iron oxide) or an organic pigment insensitive to light (such as those described above).

[0098] Among the "additional nacres", mention may be made in particular of colored pearlescent pigments, such as micas with iron oxides and with or without TiO2, micas with additional organic pigments of the abovementioned type, and pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Mention may be made of the commercial references and Pearlescent pigments can also have a matrix of silica, aluminum oxide, aluminum hydroxide, synthetic mica, tin oxide, borosilicate (for example: sodium calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or cellulose or cellulose derivatives).

[0099] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more additional coloring materials chosen from iron oxides, additional organic pigments, additional nacres and mixtures thereof.

[0100] In particular, the total content of the coloring material (including photosensitive coloring material and non-photosensitive coloring material) in the composition is in the range of 0.001 wt % to 60 wt %, preferably 0.01 wt % to 50 wt %, and even more preferably 0.1 wt % to 40 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] For pressed powder compositions (eg, eye shadow, foundation), the total content of the coloring material generally ranges from 0.001 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] For anhydrous solid compositions other than powders for skin use (eg skin tone correctors), the total content of coloring materials generally ranges from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] For an anhydrous solid composition for lips (eg lipstick), the total content of the coloring material generally ranges from 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0104] The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more additional fillers (other than zinc oxide particles).

[0105] filler

[0106] Fillers are used in particular to modify the rheology or texture of the composition and / or to impart a matte and / or blurring effect.

[0107] For the purposes of the present invention, "filler" means particles of any shape, colourless or white, mineral or organic, natural or synthetic, which have a certain form (platelet-like, spherical or oblong), are insoluble and are dispersed in the composition. Additional fillers other than zinc oxide particles are chosen in particular from mica of natural or synthetic origin, talc, bismuth oxychloride, silicon dioxide, boron nitride, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and bicarbonate, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, powders of synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyester, polyamide (such as nylon), polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone powders, cellulose powders, glass beads and ceramic beads, powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat, rice or cotton starch, crosslinked or not crosslinked, hydroxyapatite and mixtures thereof.

[0108] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise talc.

[0109] The fillers may be treated on the surface (in particular by a lipophilic or hydrophobic agent, such as described above for the zinc oxide particles) or untreated.

[0110] According to a particular embodiment, the filler is not treated on the surface.

[0111] According to another particular embodiment, the filler is treated on the surface with a lipophilic agent, such as those described above.

[0112] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one boron nitride particle as filler. The presence of the boron nitride particles in the solid anhydrous composition comprising zinc oxide particles is advantageous for obtaining an optimal hardness.

[0113] Boron Nitride Granules

[0114] The particles of the boron nitride particles that can be used according to the present invention are generally layered or flake-shaped. "Layered particles" or "flake-shaped particles" means that the thickness of the particles is less than the width of the particles, especially the ratio between the width and thickness of the particles ranges from 2 to 100.

[0115] Boron nitride particles generally have the INCI name: BORON NITRIDE.

[0116] The boron nitride particles that can be used according to the present invention generally have an average size in the range of 0.5 μm to 20 μm, in particular 1 μm to 10 μm, as measured by the laser diffraction distribution method described above.

[0117] The following commercial references may in particular be mentioned: BORON NITRIDE CC and SOFTOUCH CC from the company SAFIC ALCAN / Momentive, BORON NITRIDE SHP from the company IWASE / Mizushima, RONAFLAIR from Merck, CARESS BN from Kobo.

[0118] The particles of boron nitride particles may be treated with a lipophilic treating agent, or may be untreated.

[0119] According to certain embodiments, the boron nitride particles are not treated.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the boron nitride particles are not in the form of composite particles.

[0121] According to a particular embodiment, the content of boron nitride particles in the composition of the invention ranges in particular from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0122] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one additional filler which is different from the zinc oxide particles and the boron nitride particles.Examples of additional fillers are listed above.

[0123] The total content of fillers in the composition of the invention ranges in particular from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] For pressed powder compositions (eg eye shadow, foundation), the total content of fillers is generally in the range of 1 wt % to 50 wt %, particularly 5 wt % to 45 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0125] For anhydrous solid compositions other than powders for use on the skin (eg skin tone correctors), the total filler content generally ranges from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0126] For anhydrous solid compositions for lips (eg lipstick), the total content of fillers is generally in the range of 0.01 to 30% by weight, particularly 1 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0127] Oil or fat phase

[0128] The composition may comprise one or more oils and optionally an ingredient selected from lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

[0129] Within the meaning of the present invention, "oil" is intended to mean a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and is liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

[0130] As oils that can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more hydrocarbon oils.

[0131] As hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made in particular of hydrocarbon oils of vegetable or mineral origin, linear or branched C8-C19 alkanes, synthetic C 10 -C 40 Ether, Synthetic C 10 -C 40 Esters, optionally branched and / or unsaturated C 12 -C 26 Fatty alcohols, optionally branched and / or unsaturated higher C 12 -C 22 Fatty acids, monoesters and / or polyesters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0132] As examples of oils of vegetable origin, mention is made of soybean oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, avocado oil, olive oil, castor seed oil, jojoba seed oil, peanut oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, wheat germ oil, crabapple oil, sesame oil, macadamia oil, coconut oil, cereal germ oil, kuju oil, thistle oil, candelilla oil, safflower seed oil, shea butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] As examples of C10-C26 aliphatic fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C10-C26 aliphatic monoalcohols, more preferably C16-C20 aliphatic monoalcohols, such as 2-octyldodecanol are mentioned.

[0134] As examples of linear or branched hydrocarbons, mention is made of paraffin oil and its derivatives, vaseline, mineral oil (mixture of hydrocarbon oils from petroleum), polybutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, polyisoprene, polydecene (for example hydrogenated polydecene) or linear, branched and / or cyclic alkanes.

[0135] As examples of possibly branched and / or unsaturated fatty acids, mention is made of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0136] As examples of esters, mention is made of monoesters or polyesters of fatty acids having a linear or branched fatty chain containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and of fatty alcohols having a fatty chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms (for example the monoesters or polyesters described above) or mixtures thereof, in particular monoesters and polyesters of hydroxy acids and fatty alcohols, esters of benzoic acid and fatty alcohols, polyesters of polyols, dipentaerythritol C5-C9 esters, or polyglycerol polyesters, trimethylolpropane polyesters, propylene glycol polyesters, hydrogenated castor oil polyesters, more particularly isononyl isononanoate, stearyl caprylate, isopropyl palmitate, Isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecanol myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, 2-octyldodecanol lactate, triisostearate or diisostearate, diisostearate malate, octyldodecanol stearyl stearate, cetearyl isononanoate, diisopropyl adipate, caprylic capric triglyceride, caprylic triglyceride, isocetyl stearyl stearate stéarate), alkyl benzoates, (di) pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, dipentaerythritol pentaisononanoate, bis-diglyceryl polyacyl adipate-2, trimethylolpropane triethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, a mixture of triglycerides obtained by esterification of glycerol with capric acid and caprylic acid, non-alkoxylated polyglycerol esters (e.g. polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate esters, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate), isostearyl lactylate, octyldodecanol hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, glyceryl stearate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, jojoba esters, polyglyceryl polyricinoleates (e.g., polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-5 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate and polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleate (by their INCI names)), and mixtures thereof.

[0137] The oil content may range from 0.2% to 90% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 80% by weight, better still from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0138] For pressed powder compositions (eg eye shadow, foundation), the total content of oil is generally in the range of 0.2 to 50 wt %, particularly 2 to 15 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0139] For anhydrous solid compositions other than powders for use on the skin (eg skin tone correctors), the total content of oil generally ranges from 10 to 90% by weight, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0140] For anhydrous solid compositions for lips (eg lipstick), the total content of oil generally ranges from 10 to 90% by weight, particularly from 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0141] According to a particular embodiment, the composition further comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent.

[0142] Lipophilic gelling agent

[0143] According to the invention, "lipophilic gelling agent" is understood to mean a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the invention.

[0144] The lipophilic gelling agent may advantageously be chosen from natural or synthetic clays, modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicates, dextrins and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate, triesters of C8-C30 fatty acids with mono- or polyglycerol such as glyceryl tri(hydroxystearate) (INCI name: trihydroxystearin).

[0145] The lipophilic gelling agent is preferably a natural clay or a synthetic clay chosen from bentonites (especially hectorites and montmorillonites), beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgite, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, it can be chosen from hectorites. Even more preferably, hectorites modified with alkyl quaternary ammonium chlorides are used, the ammonium being substituted with at least one, preferably at least two, C14-C20 alkyl groups, such as disteardimethylammonium hectorites in which the ammonium contains two methyl groups and two stearyl groups.

[0146] As preferred liposoluble gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of modified hectorites dispersed in oil, such as the reference BENTONE GEL from Elementis, whose INCI name is Octyldodecanol (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Propylene Carbonate.

[0147] Thus, according to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises a lipophilic gelling agent, in particular a mineral gelling agent, such as a bentonite, preferably a hectorite quaternaire.

[0148] When the composition comprises one or more gelling agents, the total content of lipophilic gelling agents may range from 0.5% to 5% by weight, in particular from 2% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0149] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0150] wax

[0151] Within the meaning of the present invention, "wax" is intended to mean a solid compound at 25°C which has a reversible solid / liquid change and whose melting temperature is greater than 30°C, preferably greater than 45°C.

[0152] Mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite waxes, products comprising mixtures of polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes (especially alkyl dimethicones), C20-C40 alkyl stearates, beeswax, waxes of vegetable origin, copolymers of maleic anhydride and α-olefins, waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and mixtures thereof.

[0153] According to a specific and preferred embodiment, the total content of waxes in the composition of the invention ranges from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight, preferably from 4% to 20% by weight, in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0154] For pressed powder compositions (eg eye shadow, foundation), the total wax content is generally in the range of 0.1 wt % to 10 wt %, preferably 0.2 wt % to 5 wt %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0155] For anhydrous solid compositions other than powders for use on the skin (eg skin tone correctors), the total wax content generally ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, better still from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0156] For anhydrous solid compositions for lips (eg lipstick), the total wax content generally ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and better still from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention also comprises one or more pasty fatty substances.

[0158] Pasty fatty substance

[0159] "Pasty fatty substance" means a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising a liquid part and a solid part at a temperature of 25°C.

[0160] According to the invention, the pasty fatty substance may be selected from lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric organosilicon compounds, (meth)acrylic acid alkyl ester copolymers preferably having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homopolymers and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups, homopolymers and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups, fat-soluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C50 diols, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers having long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, Polymers, diglycerides, arachidyl propionate, phytosterol esters, non-crosslinked polyesters produced by polycondensation between diacids or linear or branched C4-C50 polycarboxylic acids and diols or polyols, esters produced by the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid (for example, monoisostearate, diisostearate or triisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil), mixtures of soya sterols and oxyethylated (5OE) or oxypropylated (5OP) pentaerythritol, triglycerides of fatty acids and derivatives thereof, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango butter or mango butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0161] Mention may be made in particular of triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, esters of polyols with dimers of fatty acid diacids, or one of their esters, esters of hydrogenated castor oil, oligoesters of glycerol (especially diglycerides), vegetable fats and mixtures thereof.

[0162] The content of pasty fatty substance may range from 0.05% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0163] For pressed powder compositions (eg eyeshadow, foundation), the total content of pasty fatty substances is generally in the range of 0% to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0164] For anhydrous solid compositions for skin and other than powders (e.g. skin color correctors), the total content of pasty fatty substances is generally in the range of 0% to 30% by weight, especially 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For anhydrous solid compositions for lips (e.g. lipsticks), the total content of pasty fatty substances is generally in the range of 0% to 30% by weight, especially 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] According to a specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a solid composition comprising:

[0166] - Zinc oxide particles,

[0167] - one or more photosensitive coloring materials selected from colorants and organic pigments (e.g. paints), composite pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof,

[0168] - Boron nitride particles,

[0169] one or more waxes, the total content of which preferably ranges from 1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0170] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0171] - optionally a lipophilic gelling agent,

[0172] - optionally one or more additional coloring materials not sensitive to light, selected from iron oxides, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0173] It is characterized in that the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or even no titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0174] According to a specific and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is a solid composition comprising:

[0175] - zinc oxide particles, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight or even from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0176] - one or more photosensitive coloring materials, the photosensitive coloring materials are selected from colorants or organic pigments (for example: paints), composite pigments containing at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments containing at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof, the content of the photosensitive coloring materials is particularly 0.001% to 30% by weight, better still 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0177] - boron nitride particles, in particular in an amount of 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular 2% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0178] one or more waxes, the total content of said waxes ranging from 1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 4% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0179] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0180] - one or more lipophilic gelling agents,

[0181] - one or more additional coloring materials not sensitive to light, selected from iron oxides, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0182] Characterized in that the composition does not contain titanium dioxide.

[0183] According to another specific embodiment, the composition of the present invention is a fluid or liquid composition comprising:

[0184] - Zinc oxide particles,

[0185] - one or more photosensitive coloring materials selected from colorants and organic pigments (e.g. paints), composite pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof,

[0186] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0187] - optionally a lipophilic gelling agent,

[0188] - optionally one or more additional coloring materials not sensitive to light, selected from iron oxides, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0189] It is characterized in that the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or even no titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] According to a specific and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is a fluid or liquid composition comprising:

[0191] - zinc oxide particles, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0192] - one or more photosensitive coloring materials, the photosensitive coloring materials being chosen from colorants and organic pigments (e.g. paints), composite pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof, the content of said photosensitive coloring materials being in particular from 0.01% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 40% by weight, or even from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0193] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0194] - one or more lipophilic gelling agents,

[0195] - one or more additional coloring materials not sensitive to light, selected from iron oxides, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0196] Characterized in that the composition does not contain titanium dioxide.

[0197] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising:

[0198] - Zinc oxide particles,

[0199] - one or more photosensitive coloring materials selected from colorants and organic pigments (e.g. paints), composite pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof,

[0200] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0201] - optionally a lipophilic gelling agent,

[0202] - optionally one or more additional coloring materials not sensitive to light, selected from iron oxides, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0203] It is characterized in that the composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide, in particular less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide, or even no titanium dioxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0204] According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention is a powder, in particular a loose powder, comprising:

[0205] - zinc oxide particles, in particular in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0206] - one or more photosensitive coloring materials, the photosensitive coloring materials being chosen from colorants and organic pigments (e.g. paints), composite pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof, the content of said photosensitive coloring materials being in particular from 0.001% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 40% by weight, or even from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] - hydrocarbon oils,

[0208] - one or more lipophilic gelling agents,

[0209] - one or more additional coloring materials not sensitive to light, selected from iron oxides, organic pigments, nacres and mixtures thereof,

[0210] Characterized in that the composition does not contain titanium dioxide.

[0211] In particular, in these various specific and preferred embodiments, the photosensitive coloring material is selected from:

[0212] (i) colorants and organic pigments, the colorants and organic pigments are selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake, Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI45410), Red 30, Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 73360), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 73361), Red 35, Red 35 Lake (CI 73362), Red 36, Red 36 Lake (CI 73363), Red 37, Red 37 Lake (CI 73364), Red 38, Red 38 Lake (CI 73365), Red 39, Red 40, Red 41 Lake (CI 73366), Red 41, Red 42, Red 43 Lake (CI 73367), Red 43, Red 44 Lake (CI 73368), Red 45, Red 46 Lake (CI 73369), Red 47, Red 47 Lake (CI 73368), Red 48, Red 49, Red 50 Lake (CI 73369), Red 49, Red 40 Lake (CI 73369), Red 48, 15880), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, Carmine and / or its salts (especially sodium or barium salts, such as Red 6Na Salt Lake, Red 6Ba Salt Lake) and mixtures thereof, especially Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof, preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof;

[0213] (ii) composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic matrix (especially silica, borosilicate or alumina) in which at least one of the above-mentioned colorants or organic pigments is embedded or enclosed, and mixtures thereof;

[0214] (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a matrix, in particular mica, covered with at least one of the colorants or organic pigments mentioned above, and mixtures thereof, in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with a colorant or organic pigment selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof;

[0215] (iv) and mixtures thereof;

[0216] More preferably, it is selected from the following colorants or organic pigments, or composite pigments, or mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof: the colorant or organic pigment is selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 and Red 28 Lake (CI45410); the composite pigment comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); the mother-of-pearl comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410).

[0217] GALENIQUE

[0218] The composition according to the invention is a care and / or make-up composition for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, preferably for the eyelids, the eyelashes and the lips.

[0219] The composition may be in the form of loose powder, liquid foundation, lip gloss, or in the form of a pressed powder or stick or a composition packaged in a bottle or cup, in particular lip gloss, lipstick, liner, mascara, eyeshadow, or skin color corrector or concealer, preferably lip gloss or lipstick.

[0220] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in liquid or fluid form. It will notably be a foundation or a lip gloss.

[0221] According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a loose powder.

[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a pressed powder.

[0223] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of a stick, or in the form of a composition packaged in a bottle or a cup.

[0224] It will in particular be a pressed powder for the eyelids (shadow or eyeshadow) or for the complexion.

[0225] According to another embodiment, it will be a lipstick, or a composition for the lips in a bottle or a cup.

[0226] According to another particular embodiment, it will be a makeup liner.

[0227] According to another particular embodiment, it will be a stick or pencil or a composition in a bottle or cup to be applied to the eyelashes using the finger or a brush (for example: mascara).

[0228] According to another embodiment, it will be a stick or a composition in a bottle or cup (for example: eye shadow) to be applied to the eyelid using the finger, a sponge or a brush.

[0229] According to another embodiment, it will be a stick or a composition in a bottle or cup (for example: skin tone corrector or concealer) to be applied to the facial skin (especially specific areas) using fingers, sponge or brush.

[0230] Thus, the composition of the invention is in particular in the form of a lip gloss or lipstick, a liner, a mascara, a blush or an eyeshadow, or a skin tone corrector or a concealer, preferably a lip gloss or lipstick.

[0231] Beauty Methods

[0232] The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, which comprises applying a composition according to the invention to said keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, preferably the lips.

[0233] The composition of the present invention is as defined above.

[0234] According to a particular embodiment, the composition for application to the skin is in the form of a pressed powder.

[0235] Preferably, the composition for application to the skin or lips is in the form of a lip gloss, lipstick, liner, mascara, blush or eyeshadow, or a skin tone corrector or concealer, preferably a lip gloss or lipstick.

[0236] The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, % are expressed as % by weight of the ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0237] Example

[0238] Example 1: Effect of zinc oxide particles on color protection

[0239] Several tests were conducted upstream to determine the hiding power of zinc oxide particles compared to titanium dioxide, so that it could replace titanium dioxide in the formulation without affecting the desired hiding effect.

[0240] These results indicate that for equivalent hiding power, in the anhydrous solid composition according to the present invention, the amount of zinc oxide particles required for equivalent hiding results is about 3 to 4 times the amount of titanium dioxide.

[0241] Different colorants and organic pigments (e.g. lacquers) in lipstick bases as well as mother-of-pearl were tested as follows:

[0242] [Table 2]

[0243] Ingredients (INCI name) weight% Polyisobutylene Qsp100 Octyldodecanol 14.5 Disteardimethylammonium hectorite 1.7 wax 25 Cholesterol ester 8.3 Polyglycerol esters 6 Calcium carbonate 5

[0244] This mixture is used as a dispersion matrix (after melting) for a two-color pigment preparation with equal contents of TiO2 (opacifier) ​​and the colorant to be tested. The mixture "matrix + TiO2 pigment paste + coloring material pigment paste" is adjusted to a level that closely reflects the chromaticity saturation present in products currently on the market; the texture is adjusted by adding polyglycerol esters. The pigment paste is an extemporaneously prepared dispersion of a known concentration of coloring material in a polyglycerol ester.

[0245] To make the first row of the table easier to read, 60% of this matrix is ​​mixed with 5% of TiO2 pigment paste (3% of TiO2 pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester), 10% of the pigment paste of the Red 28 Lake to be tested (3% of Red 28 Lake pre-dispersed in polyglycerol ester) and 25% of polyglycerol ester (so that the composition is 100%). The mixture is heated to 95°C and homogenized using a rotor-stator to ensure good color uniformity. The product is poured into a mold at a temperature of about 90°C. The product is left to stand for a few minutes at room temperature and then placed in a refrigerator for 5 minutes. Finally, the product is removed from the mold or left in the mold and left to stand for at least 24 hours before the sunlight test.

[0246] Color evaluation by sunlight testing:

[0247] The colorimetric stability properties of the compositions to light were evaluated according to the "Sunlight Test" protocol, in which the compositions were irradiated for 16 hours.

[0248] Each composition was poured into two lipstick bottles: one was a control, and one was to be irradiated for 16 hours.

[0249] A Sun Test XLS-type device with a Store light-reducing infrared filter was used at 500 W / m 2 The irradiation was performed at a power of 1000 nm for 16 hours.

[0250] The chromaticity of each composition tested compared to a control composition (not irradiated) was evaluated by a colorist who observed and described the color change of each composition.

[0251] The results are shown in the following table:

[0252] [Table 3]

[0253]

[0254]

[0255] ZnO*4: The amount of ZnO is multiplied by 4 compared to the amount of TiO2 to obtain the same hiding power and in the examples is "same pigmented".

[0256] These results suggest that zinc oxide (ZnO) particles have a protective effect against discoloration of photosensitive coloring materials.

[0257] Example 2: Formulation

[0258] The following examples are illustrative and non-limiting examples of the present invention, prepared according to methods well known to the cosmetic formulator.

[0259] 2.1 Waterless Liquid Lip Gloss

[0260] [Table 4]

[0261] Element weight% Polybutene 20 Tridecyl trimellitate 6 Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate 10 Vegetable fatty esters 15 Colorants 0.1 Red 27 Lake 0.01 Zinc Oxide Granules 0.2 Hydrogenated polyisobutylene QSP100

[0262] 2.2 Pressed Powder

[0263] [Table 5]

[0264]

[0265]

[0266] The pressed powder has good color stability to light. When applied to the facial skin, it has good covering properties and color properties.

[0267] 2.3 Waterless lipstick

[0268] [Table 6]

[0269] Element weight% Silicon dioxide 5.0 Polyethylene wax 5.5 Candelilla wax 3.0 Shea Butter 1.5 Iron Oxide (Red) 5.0 Red 28 Lake 2.0 Boron Nitride Granules 0.2 Zinc Oxide Granules 3.0 Hydrogenated polydecene QSP100

[0270] The lipstick has good color stability to light. When applied to the lips, the lipstick provides good covering properties and color properties.

[0271] 2.4 Waterless Eye Shadow

[0272] [Table 7]

[0273] Ingredients (INCI name) weight% Silicon dioxide 15 Synthetic Fluorphlogopite 10 Iron oxide 8 Zinc oxide particles 10 Mother of Pearl (Mica and Red 7 Lake) 2 Oils and waxes Qsp 100

[0274] The eyeshadow packaged in a cup has good color stability under light. When applied on the eyelid, the eyeshadow provides coverage and pearlescent effect.

Claims

1. A preferably anhydrous care and / or make-up cosmetic composition for keratin materials, in particular for the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) zinc oxide, and (ii) one or more photosensitive coloring materials selected from colorants and organic pigments, composite pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, pearlescent pigments comprising at least one of the colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof, It is characterized in that The cosmetic composition comprises less than 3% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that The total content of the photosensitive coloring material ranges from 0.001 to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.01 to 40% by weight, and particularly from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that: The photosensitive coloring material is selected from: (i) colorants and organic pigments, the colorants and organic pigments are selected from Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Yellow 6, Yellow 6 Lake (CI 15985), Yellow 10, Yellow 10 Lake (CI 47005), Yellow 11, Yellow 11 Lake, Red 4, Red 4 Lake (CI 14700), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Red 30, Red 30 Lake (CI 73360), Red 33, Red 33 Lake (CI 73360), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 73361), Red 35, Red 35 Lake (CI 73362), Red 36, Red 36 Lake (CI 73363), Red 37, Red 37 Lake (CI 73364), Red 38, Red 38 Lake (CI 73365), Red 39, Red 40, Red 41, Red 42, Red 43, Red 44, Red 45, Red 46, Red 47, Red 48, Red 49, Red 50, Red 51, Red 52, Red 53, Red 54, Red 55, Red 56, Red 57, Red 58, Red 59, Red 59, Red 51, Red 52, Red 53, Red 59, Red 15880), Red 34, Red 34 Lake (CI 15880), Red 40, Red 40 Lake (CI 16035), Orange 4, Carmine and / or their salts and mixtures thereof, the salts being in particular the sodium or barium salts, for example Red 6Na Lake, Red 6Ba Lake; in particular Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 21, Red 21 Lake (CI 45380), Red 22, Red 22 Lake (CI 45380), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410) and / or their salts and mixtures thereof; preferably Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), 45410) and / or its salts and mixtures thereof; (ii) composite pigments comprising an inorganic and / or organic matrix, in particular silica, borosilicate or alumina, in which at least one of the colorants or organic pigments is embedded or enclosed, and mixtures thereof; (iii) pearlescent pigments comprising a matrix covered with at least one of said colorants or organic pigments, and mixtures thereof, the matrix being in particular mica; in particular pearlescent pigments comprising synthetic mica covered with a colorant or organic pigment selected from the group consisting of Blue 1, Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), Yellow 5, Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Red 6, Red 6 Lake (15850), Red 7, Red 7 Lake (CI 15850), Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28, Red 28 Lake (CI 45410), Carmine, and mixtures thereof; (iv) and mixtures thereof; More preferably, it is selected from the following colorants or organic pigments, or composite pigments, or mother-of-pearl, and mixtures thereof: the colorant or organic pigment is selected from Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 and Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); the composite pigment comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410); the mother-of-pearl comprises Red 27, Red 27 Lake (CI 45410), Red 28 or Red 28 Lake (CI 45410).

4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that The content of zinc oxide particles ranges from 0.1 to 50 wt % zinc oxide, particularly from 1 to 30 wt % zinc oxide, preferably from 2 to 20 wt % zinc oxide, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that The cosmetic composition comprises less than 1% by weight of titanium dioxide relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular is free of titanium dioxide.

6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The cosmetic composition is a powder.

7. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The cosmetic composition is a fluid or liquid composition.

8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that The cosmetic composition is a solid composition.

9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that The cosmetic composition may further comprise another additional ingredient selected from the group consisting of additional coloring materials, additional fillers, lipophilic gelling agents, waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, which is in the form of loose powder, liquid foundation, lip gloss, or in the form of a powder or stick or a composition packaged in a bottle or cup, in particular lip gloss, lipstick, makeup liner, mascara, eye shadow, or skin color corrector or concealer, preferably lip gloss or lipstick.

11. A cosmetic method for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, the eyelids, the eyelashes or the lips, preferably the lips, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.

Images