Ophthalmic cream formulation
By using a specific weight ratio of two sodium polyacrylate homopolymers and boron nitride powder and pearlescent pigments, an eye cream formulation has been developed that overcomes the shortcomings of existing products in terms of stability, spreadability and adhesion, providing cleansing, nourishing and moisturizing skin care effects, and is suitable for a variety of skin types.
Patent Information
- Application Number
- CN202480025040.3
- Authority / Receiving Office
- CN · China
- Patent Type
- Applications(China)
- Current Assignee / Owner
- Priority Date
- 2023-02-20
- Filing Date
- 2024-02-19
- Publication Date
- 2025-11-07
AI Technical Summary
Existing eye care products struggle to simultaneously provide good stability, spreadability, and adhesion, while avoiding the use of PEG and lacking nourishing and moisturizing effects on the skin.
By using two sodium polyacrylate homopolymers in a specific weight ratio as gelling agents, combined with boron nitride powder and pearlescent pigments, a film-forming system was formed to prepare a clean eye cream formulation that avoids the use of PEG and adjusts viscosity and spreadability through a surfactant system.
This invention achieves an eye cream formulation with good stability, spreadability and adhesion, providing nourishing and moisturizing effects, suitable for all skin types, with anti-aging benefits, and is non-greasy or sticky.
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Abstract
Description
CLAIM OF PRIORITY
[0001] This patent application claims priority to French Application No. FR 23 01543, filed February 20, 2023, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety. BACKGROUND
[0002] Cosmetic formulations can be used to provide a variety of benefits to a user. Typically, the benefits are provided by active ingredients. Increasing the variety and amount of active ingredients can improve the utility of cosmetic formulations.
[0003] The cosmetic industry has become increasingly focused on skin care products and formulations. Various skin care products have been developed to address issues of skin aging, wrinkles, elasticity, dryness, dullness, and other issues. In particular, various eye creams and serums have been developed to address skin care issues around the eye area, such as dark circles, crows feet, overall dullness, and loss of elasticity with age. In some cases, various skin care creams and serums are produced in a kit form to help consumers develop an overall skin care program. SUMMARY
[0004] According to the present application, a formulation for a contoured and moisturizing eye cream includes a film-forming system including a gelling mixture comprising a first sodium polyacrylate homopolymer and a second sodium polyacrylate homopolymer, wherein the first and second sodium polyacrylates have a weight ratio of about 3: about 1, and wherein the first and second sodium polyacrylates have different particle sizes. Preferably, the gelling mixture is present in an amount of about 0.3 wt% to about 3.0 wt% of the formulation. Additionally, the formulation according to the present application includes one or more texturing powders, such as boron nitride powder; pigments, such as pearlescent pigments; and a surfactant system. The formulation of the present application has a viscosity of about 20,000 to 31,000 cP when measured after 24 hours. DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0005] Reference will now be made in detail to some embodiments of the subject disclosed. While the disclosed subject matter will be described in conjunction with the enumerated claims, it will be understood that the subject matter exemplified is not intended to limit the claims to the disclosed subject matter.
[0006] The present disclosure provides a beneficial daily eye contour cream formulation having a gelling agent comprising two different sodium polyacrylates (INCI: Sodium Polyacrylate) provided in a specific weight ratio. The formulation includes a specific combination of these two sodium polyacrylates that yields beneficial properties such as good stability, spreadability, blurring, and adhesion. In addition, the formulation is a clean formulation and is substantially free of PEG. The formulation can include a reprocessed gelling agent made from the two sodium polyacrylates, one or more surfactants, and two types of powders such as boron nitride and pearl powder.
[0007] The first sodium polyacrylate is a polymeric emulsifier that provides a silky, soft, and non-greasy after feel in different types of skin care applications with an unhydrated average particle size of 0.1 to 1 pm. Preferably, the first polyacrylate is Cosmedia® SP (BASF Care Creations, Rhein, Germany) with an unhydrated median particle size of 0.5 pm.
[0008] The second sodium polyacrylate is a rheology modifier that provides thickening properties. The second sodium polyacrylate exhibits a powdery skin feel and a matte effect. The second sodium polyacrylate also provides a non-greasy feel, a long-lasting freshness, and is very suitable for matte formulations. The second sodium polyacrylate has an unhydrated median particle size of 10 to 20 pm. Preferably, the second polyacrylate is Covacryl® MV 60 (SENSIENT BEAUTY, Saint Ouen L'Aumone, France) with an unhydrated median particle size of 13-15 pm.
[0009] After production, the formulation is preferably filled into a filled container immediately to maintain long-term stability, preferably within 24 hours.
[0010] The formulation discussed herein has several advantages, some of which are unexpected. The weight ratio and combination of the two polyacrylates achieve good spreadability and a beneficial blurring effect. In addition, the formulation is stable, has a satisfactory texture, and a good feel (e.g., not oily or tacky).
[0011] The daily eye contour cream formulation discussed herein can be used as a moisturizer for the skin around the eyes, for example, to provide an eye area with a healthy appearance and a shiny eye contour. The daily eye contour cream formulation is a rich, matte cream that can help to nourish and support the skin's natural moisture barrier.
[0012] The daily eye contour cream formulation can be used on various skin types, for all genders, and is a vegan formulation that is friendly for post-surgical applications. The daily eye contour cream formulation can help with anti-aging effects and can provide a tightening effect, and can help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles, dark circles, puffiness, and fine lines, and can help to reduce the appearance of hyperemia of the eye contour.
[0013] Throughout this document, values expressed in a range format should be interpreted in a flexible manner to include not only the literal limits of the range, but also to include all individual values or sub-ranges within the range as if each number and each subrange were individually listed. For example, a range of "about 0.1 % to about 5%" or "about 0.1 % to 5%" should be interpreted to include not only the literal limits of about 0.1 % to about 5%, but also individual values such as 1 %, 2%, 3%, and 4%, and sub-ranges such as 0.1 % to 0.5%, 1.1 % to 2.2%, 3.3% to 4.4%. Unless otherwise indicated, a statement that a value is "about X to Y" has the same meaning as a statement that a value is "about X to about Y." Likewise, unless otherwise indicated, a statement that a value is "about X, Y, or about Z" has the same meaning as a statement that a value is "about X, about Y, or about Z."
[0014] In this document, the terms "a" or "an" or "the" or "at least one" are used to include one or more than one, unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The term "or" is used in the inclusive sense, unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. The statement "at least one of A and B" or "at least one of A or B" has the same meaning as "A, B, or A and B." Additionally, it is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology employed herein, and not otherwise defined, is for the purpose of description only and is not necessarily taken as limiting. Any use of section headings is intended to aid reading the document and is not to be interpreted as limiting; information that is relevant to a section heading can occur within or outside of that particular section.
[0015] In the methods described herein, the acts can be performed in any order, unless otherwise specifically noted, without departing from the scope of the application. Moreover, specific acts can be performed simultaneously, unless specifically noted otherwise in the claims. For example, the acts of performing X and performing Y, as claimed, can be performed simultaneously within a single operation, and the resulting process would fall within the literal scope of the claimed process.
[0016] As used herein, the term "about" can allow for a degree of variability in a value or range, for example, within 10%, within 5%, or within 1% of a stated value or of a stated limit of a range, and includes the exact stated value or range.
[0017] As used herein, the term "substantially" refers to a majority or a substantial part, such as at least about 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%, 99.5%, 99.9%, 99.99%, or at least about 99.999% or more, or 100%. As used herein, the term "substantially free of can mean having none or a trace amount such that the amount of material present does not affect the material properties of a composition including the material, such that the material comprises from about 0 wt% to about 5 wt%, or from about 0 wt% to about 1 wt%, or about 5 wt% or less, or less than or equal to about 4.5 wt%, 4 wt%, 3.5 wt%, 3 wt%, 2.5 wt%, 2 wt%, 1.5 wt%, 1 wt%, 0.9 wt%, 0.8 wt%, 0.7 wt%, 0.6 wt%, 0.5 wt%, 0.4 wt%, 0.3 wt%, 0.2 wt%, 0.1 wt%, 0.01 wt%, or about 0.001 wt% or less, or about 0 wt%.
[0018] The term "comprising" is used herein in its broadest sense to mean and encompass the notions of "including," "including but to," and "consisting of."
[0019] Viscosity is measured at 23°C with a Brookfield apparatus (1% in water; spindle 6, at 5 rpm) according to the ISO 2555 standard.
[0020] Particle size is measured by laser diffraction (Horiba LA 960 analyzer). Throughout this application, values represent the median volume-weighted diameter (D 50 ).
[0021] Ophthalmic cream formulation
[0022] Various examples herein include formulations for a daily eye contour cream that include a film-forming system comprising a gelling agent mixture. The gelling agent mixture includes a first sodium polyacrylate and a second sodium polyacrylate, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate are provided in the gelling agent mixture in a weight ratio of about 3: 1. The formulation can also include a powder, such as boron nitride, a pearlescent pigment, or other components. The formulation also includes a surfactant system.
[0023] The formulation has a beneficial viscosity for skin care applications. The viscosity of the formulation according to the present application ranges from about 20,000 cP to about 31,000 cP, for example, about 21,000 cP, about 22,000 cP, about 23,000 cP, about 24,000 cP, about 25,000 cP, about 26,000 cP, about 27,000 cP, about 28,000 cP, about 29,000 cP, 30,000 cP, when tested after 24 hours. In one example, the viscosity of the formulation is about 25,500 cp, about 26,500 cp, or about 27,500 cp, when tested after 24 hours. In another example, the viscosity of the formulation can be about 22,500 cp, about 23,500 cp, or about 24,500 cp, when tested after 24 hours.
[0024] In preferred embodiments, the formulation is substantially free of polyethylene glycol. For example, the formulation contains less than about 0.1 wt% PEG-8, less than about 0.08 wt% PEG-18, less than about 0.06 wt% PEG-18, less than about 0.04 wt% PEG-18, less than about 0.02 wt% PEG-18, or less than about 0.01 wt% PEG-18.
[0025] Preferably, the pH of the ocular cream formulation ranges from about 5 to about 7; about 5.5 to about 6.5; less than, equal to, or greater than about 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, or about 7.
[0026] Film forming system
[0027] The gelling agent mixture can act as a film forming system on the consumer's skin. The film forming system including the gelling agent mixture can comprise about 0.3 to about 3.0 wt% or about 0.5 to about 2.0 wt% of the total formulation weight. The gelling agent mixture can aid in the spreadability of the formulation and its uniform application to the consumer's skin.
[0028] In the formulation according to the present application, the gelling agent mixture comprises a first sodium polyacrylate and a second sodium polyacrylate in a weight ratio of about 3: 1. The sodium polyacrylate salt can generally be a cross-linked or non-cross-linked polymer. The sodium polyacrylate can be used in particulate form.
[0029] The mixture of the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate can function as a gelling agent in the formulation. Preferably, the first sodium polyacrylate comprises Cosmedia® SP (from BASF Care Creations, Rhein, Germany) and the second sodium polyacrylate comprises Covacryl® MV60 (from SENSIENT BEAUTY, Saint Ouen L'Aumone, France). The first and second sodium polyacrylates must have different particle sizes.
[0030] In the present invention, the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate are present in a weight ratio of 3.5: 1 to 2.5: 1, preferably in a weight ratio of about 2.5: 1, about 2.6: 1, about 2.7: 1, about 2.8: 1, about 2.9: 1, about 3: 1, about 3.1: 1, about 3.2: 1, about 3.3: 1, or about 3.4: 1. At this weight ratio, they provide significant benefits to the formulation as a whole and function as gelling agents within the formulation.
[0031] The first sodium polyacrylate is an emulsifying polymer with stabilizing, thickening, and emulsifying properties. The first sodium polyacrylate helps to create a light texture, good spreadability, and a fresh skin feel with good tolerability. In one example, the first sodium polyacrylate can be a polyacrylic acid sodium salt.
[0032] The first sodium polyacrylate has good sensory characteristics, providing a silky, soft, and non-greasy after feel. In one example, the first sodium polyacrylate can be water-soluble and function as a rheology modifier or thickening agent and can serve to improve emulsion stability. The first sodium polyacrylate can enhance the slip and spreadability of the formulation. The first sodium polyacrylate can provide a nourishing, emollient, transparent, non-greasy, and matte effect.
[0033] The first sodium polyacrylate can comprise up to about 1.80% by weight of the formulation, up to about 1.50% by weight of the formulation, up to about 1.0% by weight of the formulation, or up to about 0.1% by weight of the formulation.
[0034] The first sodium polyacrylate has an unhydrated average particle size of 0.1 to 1 μm, for example, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, or 0.9 μm.
[0035] The second sodium polyacrylate is a thickening agent that achieves a soft touch and a powdery skin feel. The second sodium polyacrylate can provide a fresh feel to the skin and improve the spreadability of the formulation. The second sodium polyacrylate is non-greasy and achieves a matte effect. In one example, the second sodium polyacrylate can include sodium polyacrylate in water. In one example, the second sodium polyacrylate can be an emulsifying polymer. In one example, the second sodium polyacrylate can be water-soluble and act as a rheology modifier or thickening agent. The second sodium polyacrylate can provide a cooling effect due to its cream-like appearance.
[0036] The second sodium polyacrylate can comprise up to about 1.8% by weight of the formulation, up to about 1.5% by weight of the formulation, up to about 1.0% by weight of the formulation, up to about 0.5% by weight of the formulation, or up to about 0.1% by weight of the formulation.
[0037] The second sodium polyacrylate can have an unhydrated median particle size of 10 to 20 μιη, such as 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, or 19 μιη.
[0038] The weight ratio of the first sodium polyacrylate to the second sodium polyacrylate in the gelling system is preferably about 3: 1. This weight ratio provides advantageous spreadability, feel, and sensory effects, as discussed in the examples below.
[0039] Powders and pigments
[0040] In addition to the gelling agent mixture, the formulation can include one or more powders or pigments, as desired. For example, the formulation can include one or more texturing powders, such as boron nitride powder, and pigments, such as pearlescent pigments.
[0041] One or more powders can be used in the formulation. For example, one or more powders can be used in the formulation, including particles that help to create visual effects, improve skin feel, and skin texture. For example, one or more powders can be used in the formulation, including particles that allow a film to be maintained in the formulation. Such powders can help to provide the proper viscosity and feel (e.g., tackiness) of the formulation.
[0042] In one example, boron nitride powder can be included in the formulation. Synthetic boron-based inorganic compounds can be used in the formulation to increase the adhesion of the formulation and act as a functional filler. In one example, boron nitride powder can be used to help smooth application and adhesion of the formulation. In one example, boron nitride powder can act as a filler component in the formulation.
[0043] In one example, the boron nitride powder can comprise about 0.3% to about 1.02% by weight of the total formulation, about 0.5% to about 1.00% by weight of the total formulation, or about 0.6% to about 0.90% by weight of the total formulation.
[0044] In some examples, other powders can be used in place of or in addition to the boron nitride powder, such as mica, talc, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, polyamide, cellulose, starch (e.g., tapioca or corn starch), inorganic particles (such as silicone-based powders), or other suitable powders, such as for blurring benefits.
[0045] One or more pigments can be used in the formulation. In one example, such pigments can include particulate materials that are capable of providing a shine, hue, color, or other visual benefit to the composition. Such pigments can be organic or inorganic. In one example, such pigments can be coated or uncoated.
[0046] In one example, a pearlescent pigment can be included in the formulation. The pearlescent pigment can include a partially translucent powder, such as formed by depositing titanium dioxide and / or iron salts onto mica, pigments layered with metal oxides. Such pearlescent pigments can provide beneficial reflective properties and coloration to the formulation. Such pearlescent pigments can help provide a shine to the formulation. In some cases, the pearlescent pigment can be free of a substrate. In some cases, the pearlescent pigment can be layered. Exemplary pearlescent pigments include, but are not limited to, coated mica flakes, such as including titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or other metal oxide components.
[0047] In one example, the pearlescent pigment can comprise from about 0.3% to about 1.02% by weight of the total formulation, from about 0.5% to about 1.00% by weight of the total formulation, or from about 0.6% to about 0.90% by weight of the total formulation.
[0048] In some examples, other or alternative pigments can be included in the formulation. Such pigments can be included to adjust the hue, shine, and appearance of the formulation. Exemplary pigments can include inorganic pigments, such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, ultramarine blue, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, or organic pigments, such as azo, indigoid, triphenylmethane, anthraquinone, and xanthine dyes, and / or dyes, such as FD&C or D&C dyes. Such pigments can be optionally used in any suitable combination in addition to the pearlescent pigment.
[0049] Surfactant system
[0050] An ocular cream formulation can include any number of suitable surfactants, for example, making up a surfactant system therein. Surfactants can stabilize the formulation, for example, by stabilizing the emulsion. Surfactants can also help to modulate the feel, texture, and spreadability of the cosmetic formulation. For example, the formulation can include a surfactant system that comprises from about 2.5 wt% to about 7.0 wt% of the total formulation, from about 3.0 wt% to about 6.5 wt% of the total formulation, or from about 3.5 wt% to about 6.0 wt% of the total formulation. The surfactant system can include one or more components for modulating the surface tension of the formulation, for example, for good applicability and spreadability of the formulation.
[0051] In one example, the surfactant system can include sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate. In one example, the formulation can include from about 1.0 wt% to about 2 wt% or about 1.5 wt% of sodium stearoyl glutamate. In one example, the formulation can include from about 3.5 wt% to about 4.5 wt% or about 4 wt% of polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate. The surfactant system can range from about 4.0 wt% to about 6.0 wt% of the ocular cream formulation throughout the formulation.
[0052] In addition to sodium stearoyl glutamate, the surfactant can include a number of other suitable surfactants or mixtures of surfactants. For example, the surfactant can include a non-ionic surfactant.
[0053] Suitable non-ionic surfactants are disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 3,929,678, Laughlin et al., issued December 30, 1975; and U.S. Patent No. 4,285,841, Barrat et al., issued August 25, 1981. Illustrative, non-limiting classes of useful non-ionic surfactants include C8-C 18 alkyl ethoxy esters, including so-called narrow peak alkyl ethoxy esters; and C6-C 12alkyl alkanolamide, and mixtures thereof. Other useful nonionic surfactants are polyethylene, polypropylene, and polybutylene oxide condensates of alkyl phenols. Commercially available nonionic surfactants of this type include Igepal® CO-630 sold by GAF Corporation; and Triton® X45, X-114, X-100, and X-102, all sold by Rohm & Haas Company. These compounds are commonly referred to as alkyl phenol alkoxylates, preferably alkyl phenol ethoxylates. Additional useful nonionic surfactants are condensation products of fatty alcohols with about 1 to about 25 moles of ethylene oxide. The alkyl chain of the fatty alcohol can be a straight or branched chain primary or secondary alkyl group, and generally contains from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. Examples of commercially available nonionic surfactants of this type include Tergitol® 15-S-9 (condensation product of C 11 -C 15 condensation product of a branched secondary alcohol with 9 moles of ethylene oxide), Tergitol® 24-L-6 NMW (condensation product of a C 12 -C 14 condensation product of a primary alcohol with 6 moles of ethylene oxide) having a narrow molecular weight distribution; Neodol® 45-9 (condensation product of a C 14 -C 15 branched alcohol with 9 moles of ethylene oxide), Neodol® 23-6.5 (condensation product of a C 12 -C 13 branched alcohol with 6.5 moles of ethylene oxide), Neodol® 45-7 (condensation product of a C 14 -C 15 branched alcohol with 7 moles of ethylene oxide), Neodol® 45-4 (condensation product of a C 14 -C 15 branched alcohol with 4 moles of ethylene oxide), and Kyro® EOB (condensation product of a C 13 -C 15condensation products of ethylene oxide with hydrophobic bases formed by condensing propylene oxide with propylene glycol. Examples of this type of compound include certain of the commercially available Pluronic® surfactants sold by BASF. Still further useful surfactants are condensation products of ethylene oxide with the product produced by the reaction of ethylene diamine with propylene oxide. Examples of this type of nonionic surfactant include certain of the commercially available Tetronic® compounds sold by BASF. Semi-polar nonionic surfactants are a special class of nonionic surfactants that include water-soluble amine oxides. These amine oxide surfactants specifically include C 10 -C 18 alkyl dimethyl amine oxides and C8-C 12 alkoxy ethyl dihydroxy ethyl amine oxides. Other nonionic surfactants are alkyl polysaccharides. Any reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms can be used, for example, the glucosyl moiety can be replaced with glucose, galactose and galactosyl moieties. Fatty acid amide surfactants, C 12 -C 18 betaines and sulfobetaines (sultaines) are also known surfactants.
[0054] In another example, amine oxide surfactants can be used. Commercially available amine oxides are ADMOX 16 and ADMOX 18, ADMOX 12, and especially ADMOX 14 from Ethyl Corp. as a solid dihydrate. Other surfactants include dodecyl dimethyl amine oxide dihydrate, hexadecyl dimethyl amine oxide dihydrate, octadecyl dimethyl amine oxide dihydrate, hexadecyl tris(ethylenoxy) dimethyl-amine oxide dihydrate, tetradecyl dimethyl amine oxide dihydrate, and mixtures thereof.
[0055] In another example, biodegradable branched surfactants can be used, such as are more fully disclosed in WO 98 / 23712 A published June 4, 1998; WO 97 / 38957 A published October 23, 1997; WO 97 / 38956 A published October 23, 1997; WO 97 / 39091 A published October 23, 1997; WO 97 / 39089 A published October 23, 1997; WO 97 / 39088 A published October 23, 1997; WO 97 / 39087 Al published October 23, 1997; WO 97 / 38972 A published October 23, 1997; WO 98 / 23566 A Shell published June 4, 1998.
[0056] Other or alternative surfactants can include polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate, polyglyceryl-6 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / decanoate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate (and) polyglyceryl 6-behenate, sorbitan esters, sucrose esters, alkyl polyglycosides, fatty acid glucamides, or mixtures thereof. If the surfactant comprises polyglyceryl fatty acid ester, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can comprise a mixture of polyglyceryl-4 laurate / decanoate; polyglyceryl-6 caprylate / caprate; and water. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can alternatively or additionally comprise a mixture of polyglyceryl-4 laurate / decanoate, polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, and water. The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester can alternatively or additionally comprise polyglyceryl-4 caprate.
[0057] Other components
[0058] Optionally, the formulation can include other components such as, but not limited to, other solvents, thickening agents, pigments, dyes, powders, fillers, surfactant components, or other components as desired. In some cases, other emulsifiers or chelants can be used.
[0059] Thus, the formulations herein can contain a number of other optional components which are suitable for making such compositions more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable or providing additional benefits for their use. These conventional optional ingredients are well known to those skilled in the art. These optional ingredients include any cosmetically acceptable ingredient such as those found in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Seventh Ed., edited by Wenninger and McEwen, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington, D.C., 1997. As used herein, "cosmetically acceptable" means a material (e.g., a compound or composition) that is suitable for use in contact with skin, hair or other appropriate substrate.
[0060] Method of making an ophthalmic cream formulation
[0061] The eye cream formulations discussed herein can be prepared in a variety of ways, for example, by using any suitable preparation method. For example, the cosmetic formulation can be prepared by combining a film-forming phase (e.g., including a gelling agent having a first polyacrylate and a second polyacrylate) with a surfactant system, powders, and pigments. All components can be stirred or otherwise mixed to form the final eye cream formulation.
[0062] For example, the eye cream formulation can be prepared by first pre-mixing the oil phase components of the formulation, for example, by stirring at an elevated temperature of about 110 °C until uniform. Next, the water phase components can be heated, for example, to about 80 °C. Next, the powders can be added to the water phase components by stirring. Subsequently, the thickening agents can be added one at a time to the water phase while stirring. The oil phase components can be added to the water phase components to create an emulsion, for example, by stirring. The formulation can then be cooled, for example, to about 25 °C. The liquids can be activated when the formulation is below about 40 °C. Other powder components can then be added, and the pH can be adjusted.
[0063] Filling is performed by methods known to those skilled in the art, see, for example, Manufacturing: Process Techniques for the Cosmetic Industry in Harrys Cosmeticology 9th Ed.
[0064] Method of using an ophthalmic cream formulation
[0065] The formulations discussed herein can be used by a consumer for skin care, for example around the eyes. The formulations can be applied as an eye contour cream in the morning or at night, for example for eliminating eye puffiness. In some cases, the eye cream formulation can be applied as a pre-makeup primer and / or makeup extender.
[0066] For example, a user can apply the eye cream formulation to the upper and lower periorbital areas, either by means of a spot application with an applicator, or directly with a finger. The consumer can massage the spot formulation into the upper and lower periorbital areas until the formulation is absorbed.
[0067] Examples
[0068] The various examples of the disclosure can be better understood by reference to the following examples, which are offered by way of illustration. The disclosure is not limited to the examples given herein.
[0069] Example 1. Gelling agent mixture formulation
[0070] As discussed herein, several sample formulations were prepared using a gelling agent containing a first polyacrylate and a second polyacrylate in a weight ratio of 3:1. In addition, control and comparative examples were prepared using different weight ratios of the first polyacrylate and the second polyacrylate.
[0071] In each sample, the first polyacrylate used was Cosmedia® SP (BASF CareCreations, Rhein, Germany), which is a sodium salt of a polyacrylic acid, and the second polyacrylate used was Covacryl® MV60 (SENSIENT BEAUTY, Saint Ouen L'Aumone, France), which is a 2-acrylic acid homopolymer sodium salt.
[0072] The samples are summarized in Table 1 below:
[0073]
[0074] CF indicates conforming to expectations.
[0075] Table 1. Gelling agent mixture samples
[0076] The results clearly indicate that when the two polyacrylates are present in a weight ratio of about 3: 1 and the viscosity is in the range of 20,000 to 31,000 (Formulation A), the formulation has good stability and spreadability. When one polyacrylate is not present, the formulation does not achieve the same results (Formulations B and C). When the viscosity is too low (Formulation D) or too high (Formulation E), i.e., outside the range of 20,000 to 31,000 cp, the stability is as expected, but the spreadability is not satisfactory.
[0077] The eye cream gellant formulations using the first and second sodium polyacrylates were tested for adhesion, spreadability, and blurring effect by various test protocols outlined below.
[0078] Example 2. Testing of ophthalmic cream formulation prior to application
[0079] Sample formulations using the gellant mixtures from Example 1 were prepared using the same amounts of surfactant system, powder, and pigment. In addition to the boron nitride powder and the pearlescent pigment, these samples included a surfactant system of sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate mixed with the various gellant mixture samples described in Table 1. The components of the eye cream formulation samples are summarized in Table 2 below:
[0080]
[0081] Table 2. Eye Cream Formulation Samples
[0082] Samples were prepared by mixing the first polyacrylate Cosmedia® SP (BASF Care Creations, Rhein, Germany), acrylic acid homopolymer sodium salt, or sodium polyacrylate with the second polyacrylate Covacryl® MV60 (SENSIENT BEAUTY, Saint Ouen L'Aumone, France), a surfactant system including sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, boron nitride powder (RonaFlair Boroneige SF-9, Merck & Co., New Jersey), and pearlescent pigment (TIMIRON HALO WHITE 117228, Merck & Co., New Jersey), the second polyacrylate being a 2-acrylic acid homopolymer sodium salt.
[0083] The formulations in Table 2 were first tested for pH and viscosity. In these samples, the samples that performed well in terms of and viscosity were tested according to test protocols before (‘adhesion’), during, and after application of the eye cream formulation. Such test protocols can include testing appearance, texture, and odor at various time points.
[0084] For adhesion testing, the eye cream formulation samples were tested for appearance sheen, as well as texture firmness, viscosity, and stringiness, for example, prior to application. For adhesion testing, about 100 μL of sample formulation was dropped onto the thumb of each panelist who performed the sensory testing. This process was repeated to test the sheen, firmness, viscosity, and stringiness of the pre-application "adhesion" test.
[0085] Adhesion Sheen. The eye cream formulation sheen was tested to observe the amount of light reflected by the product. The formulation was tested for sheen while adhered. In the sheen test, the product was evaluated for sheen and analyzed specifically by observing the product under white light while 100 μL of sample formulation was on the thumb of the panelist. The product was assigned a value on a scale from matte to shiny.
[0086] Adhesion Firmness. The eye cream formulation firmness was tested to observe the amount of force required to compress the product. Here, 100 μL of sample formulation on the thumb was compressed gently between the thumb and index finger. The panelists assigned a score from low to high to the sample formulation.
[0087] Adhesion Viscosity. The eye cream formulation firmness was tested to observe the amount of force required to separate the index finger from the thumb. The panelists assigned a score from low to high to the sample formulation.
[0088] Adhesion Stringiness. The eye cream formulation firmness was tested to observe the amount of product that was stretched without breaking when the fingers were separated. Here, 100 μL of sample formulation was compressed and separated once between the thumb and index finger. The panelists assigned a score from low to high to the sample formulation.
[0089] The preliminary tests for sheen, firmness, viscosity, and stringiness were performed on the samples listed in Table 2 above to show the favorable appearance and texture of the new eye cream formulation using a particular weight ratio of sodium polyacrylate.
[0090] In addition, the eye cream formulation was tested during and after application, as outlined in Example 3 below.
[0091] Example 3. Testing of ophthalmic cream formulation during and after application
[0092] The eye cream formulation was tested during application to the consumer's skin. Here, odor, texture, and appearance were tested. Specifically, for odor, the overall scent intensity during application was tested. For texture, several sensory components were tested, including wetness, spreadability, thickness, greasiness, oiliness, and lift. For appearance, noodling after mixing was tested.
[0093] For these tests, 50 μL of sample formulation was dropped onto the center of a 5 cm x 5 cm area on the forearm of the panelists that was marked by the panel leader. Each panelist would spread the product within the area with 2 fingers (e.g., index and middle fingers) in a circular motion at a speed of about 2 circles per second to apply 50 μL of sample formulation evenly onto their skin.
[0094] Spreadability. The eye cream formulations were tested during application to assess the ease of spreading 50 μL of sample formulation on the skin. In this case, the panelists evaluated the spreadability of 50 μL of sample formulation after three rub-ins into the skin. The panelists assigned a score from low to high to the sample formulation.
[0095] These in-application tests were performed on the samples listed in Table 2 above to show the favorable appearance and texture of the new eye cream formulations using a particular weight ratio of sodium polyacrylate.
[0096] In addition, the eye cream formulations were tested after application to the skin of a consumer. Here, odor, texture, and appearance can be tested. Specifically, for odor, the overall scent intensity after application was tested. For texture, several sensory components were tested, including viscosity, smoothness effect, residue, residue type, softness, and irritation. For appearance, post-mixing spreadability and glossiness were tested.
[0097] For these tests, after 50 μL of sample formulation was applied as described in Example 3 above, the panelists wiped their fingers and began the post-application evaluation.
[0098] These in-application tests were performed on the samples listed in Table 2 above to show the favorable appearance and texture of the new eye cream formulations using a particular weight ratio of sodium polyacrylate.
[0099] The terms and expressions employed herein are used as terms of description and not of limitation, and there is no intention, in the use of such terms and expressions, of excluding any equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but it is recognized that various modifications are possible within the scope of the example disclosed. Thus, it should be understood that although the present disclosure has been specifically disclosed by specific examples and optional features, modification and variation of the concepts herein disclosed can be resorted to by those skilled in the art, and that such modifications and variations are considered to be within the scope of the examples disclosed. The
[0100] Example 4
[0101] Exemplary formulations are as follows:
[0102]
[0103] Other examples.
[0104] The following example instances are provided, the numbering of which should not be interpreted as specifying a degree of importance.
[0105] Example 1 includes a formulation for a contouring and moisturizing eye cream, the formulation comprising: a film-forming system comprising a gelling mixture, the gelling mixture comprising a first sodium polyacrylate and a second sodium polyacrylate, the first sodium polyacrylate comprising a sodium salt of a homopolymer of 2-propenoic acid, the second sodium polyacrylate comprising a sodium salt of a polyacrylate, wherein a weight ratio of the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate is about 3: about 1, the gelling mixture in an amount of about 0.3 wt% to about 3.0 wt% of the formulation; at least two powders comprising a boron nitride powder and a nacreous pigment; and a surfactant system, wherein the formulation has a maximum viscosity of about 31,000 cP after 24 hours.
[0106] Example 2 can include example 1, wherein the formulation is substantially free of polyethylene glycol.
[0107] Example 3 can include any of examples 1-3, wherein the formulation contains less than about 0.05 wt% PEG-8.
[0108] Example 4 can include any of examples 1-3, wherein the formulation has a minimum viscosity of about 22,500 cP.
[0109] Example 5 can include any of examples 1-4, wherein the viscosity of the formulation is in a range of about 22,500 cP to about 31,000 cP.
[0110] Example 6 can include any of examples 1-5, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate is up to about 1.8 wt% of the formulation.
[0111] Example 7 can include any of examples 1-6, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate is up to about 1.5 wt% of the formulation.
[0112] Example 8 can include any of examples 1-7, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate is up to about 1.0 wt% of the formulation.
[0113] Example 9 can include any of examples 1-8, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate is up to about 0.5 wt% of the formulation.
[0114] Example 10 can include any of examples 1-9, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate is up to about 1.80 wt% of the formulation.
[0115] Example 11 can include any of examples 1-10, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate is up to about 1.50 wt% of the formulation.
[0116] Example 12 can include any of examples 1-11, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises at most about 1.0% by weight of the formulation.
[0117] Example 13 can include any of examples 1-12, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises at most about 0.1% by weight of the formulation.
[0118] Example 14 can include any of examples 1-13, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate comprises sodium polyacrylate in water.
[0119] Example 15 can include any of examples 1-14, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate is an emulsifying polymer.
[0120] Example 16 can include any of examples 1-15, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises a sodium polyacrylate salt.
[0121] Example 17 can include any of examples 1-16, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate is water soluble.
[0122] Example 18 can include any of examples 1-17, wherein the pearlescent pigment comprises about 0.5% by weight to about 1.0% by weight of the formulation.
[0123] Example 19 can include any of examples 1-18, wherein the boron nitride comprises about 0.5% by weight to about 1.0% by weight of the formulation.
[0124] Example 20 can include any of examples 1-19, wherein the surfactant system comprises sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate.
[0125] Example 21 can include any of examples 1-20, wherein the surfactant system comprises about 3.0% by weight to about 7.0% by weight of the formulation.
Claims
1. An eye cream formulation, the formulation comprising: - a film forming system comprising a gelling mixture, the gelling mixture comprising a first sodium polyacrylate and a second sodium polyacrylate in a weight ratio of 3.5: 1 to 2.5: 1, wherein the first and second sodium polyacrylates have different particle sizes; - one or more texture powders; - one or more pigments; and - a surfactant system; wherein the formulation has a viscosity of between about 20,000 cP and 31,000 cP when measured after 24 hours.
2. The eye cream formulation of claim 1, wherein the first and second sodium polyacrylates are present in a weight ratio of about 3:
1.
3. The eye cream formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the gelling mixture is present in an amount of about 0.3 wt% to about 3.0 wt% of the total formulation.
4. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the formulation is substantially free of polyethylene glycol (PEG).
5. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the viscosity of the formulation is in the range of about 18,000 cP to about 30,000 cP.
6. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.8 wt% of the formulation, preferably up to about 1.5 wt% of the formulation, more preferably up to about 1.0 wt% of the formulation, even more preferably up to about 0.5 wt% of the formulation.
7. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate comprises up to about 1.80 wt% of the total formulation, preferably up to about 1.50 wt% of the total formulation, more preferably up to about 1.0 wt% of the total formulation, most preferably up to about 0.1 wt% of the total formulation.
8. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate has an average particle size of between about 0.1 pm and 1 pm.
9. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the second sodium polyacrylate has an average particle size of between about 10 pm and 20 pm.
10. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pearlescent pigment comprises about 0.5 wt% to about 1.0 wt% of the formulation.
11. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the texture powder is boron nitride, preferably about 0.5 wt% to about 1.0 wt% of the total formulation.
12. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant system comprises sodium stearoyl glutamate and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate.
13. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the surfactant system comprises about 3.0 wt% to about 7.0 wt% of the total formulation.
14. The formulation of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the formulation fills a container within 24 hours.
15. Use of a gelling mixture comprising a first sodium polyacrylate and a second sodium polyacrylate as a film forming system, wherein the first sodium polyacrylate and the second sodium polyacrylate have different particle sizes.
Citation Information
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