Composition for conditioning the hair
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-06-30
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-06
Smart Images

Figure PCTCN2023104789-FTAPPB-I100001 
Figure PCTCN2023104789-FTAPPB-I100002 
Figure PCTCN2023104789-FTAPPB-I100003
Abstract
Description
COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING THE HAIRTECHNICAL FIELD
[0001] The present invention belongs to the field of cosmetic product. In particular, the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning the hair. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning the hair.BACKGROUND ART
[0002] The appearance and / or condition of keratin fibers are often affected by both extrinsic and intrinsic factors such as aging.
[0003] Keratin fibers, especially hair, are constantly exposed to harsh extrinsic conditions, such as sun, chemical damage, e.g., from detergents, bleaching, relaxing, dyeing, and permanent waving, heat, e.g., from hair dryers or curlers, and mechanical stress or wear, e.g., from brushing or grooming activities. In addition, any type of hair can diminish in quality and / or quantity over time by age and / or due to factors such as natural greasiness, sweat, skin cells shed from the scalp, pollution, dirt, and extreme humidity conditions.
[0004] The above-described factors can result in thinning hair and / or harm the visual appearance and the feel of the hair, and lead to decreased volume.
[0005] For example, hair can dry out and lose its shine or color or become frizzy and less manageable under low and high humidity conditions. Under low humidity conditions, hair can dry out and dried-out hair tends to be less shiny and more brittle. Conversely, under high humidity conditions, hair tends to absorb water, causing hair to lose its shape and become unmanageable and unattractive.
[0006] Furthermore, hair can lose its desirable attributes due to physical stress on the hair such as brushing and application of heat. As such, these factors generally result in damage to the keratin fibers, either by affecting protective materials on the surface of the hair (the cuticle) , or by altering the hair fiber internally (the cortex) .
[0007] Thus, there is also a need to formulate a cosmetic product for conditioning the hair, which is stable over time while providing a good hair smoothness.SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
[0008] The present invention aims at providing a cosmetic product for conditioning the hair, in which a saturated oil is comprised to provide better stability and smoothness than product comprising only an unsaturated oil, and thus the cosmetic product can avoid unpleasant smell from degradation.
[0009] Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning the hair comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises:
[0010] a) an inner core comprising at least one saturated oil; and
[0011] b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener,
[0012] wherein the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.
[0013] The composition according to the present invention comprises hydrogel capsules comprising an inner core oil phase and a hydrogel outer shell phase, and a liquid medium phase, thus it is a three-phase system, which is stable under room temperature, 4℃, and 45℃ for at least 2 months.
[0014] The composition according to the present invention can provide a good hair smoothness.
[0015] In addition, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied easily and uniformly on the hair, and be rinsed off easily.
[0016] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.
[0017] Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
[0018] DETAILD DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0019] As used herein, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between. . . and... " and "from. . . to ... ” .
[0020] As used herein, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones.
[0021] As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
[0022] Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the field the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
[0023] Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired performance obtained as required. The term “about” denoting a certain value is intended to denote a range within ± 5%ofthe value, e.g. ± 3%, ± 2%, ± 1%, and ± 0.5%of the value.
[0024] The articles "a" and "an" , as used herein, mean one or more when applied to any feature in embodiments of the present invention described in the specification and claims. The use of "a" and "an" does not limit the meaning to a single feature unless such a limit is specifically stated. Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may be substituted for it.
[0025] Hydrogel capsules
[0026] As used herein, the term hydrogel capsule means beads consisting of an inner core and a hydrogel outer shell that covers and protects the inner core.
[0027] Advantageously, the hydrogel capsules have a particle size of 0.3-15 mm, preferably 1-10 mm, more preferably 2-6 mm, and still more preferably 3-5 mm.
[0028] As used herein, particle size of the hydrogel capsules means the average diameter size thereof.
[0029] According to the first aspect, the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one saturated oil, and a hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener.
[0030] In one embodiment, the inner core of the composition further comprises at least one unsaturated oil.
[0031] Inner core
[0032] According to the first aspect, the hydrogel capsules comprise an inner core comprising at least one saturated oil.
[0033] Here, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25℃) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
[0034] As the oil (s) , those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. The oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
[0035] The oil may be a non-polar oil such as hydrocarbons, silicones, or the like; a polar oil such as esters, fatty alcohols and ethers; or a mixture thereof.
[0036] The oil may be oils of plant or animal origin and synthetic oils.
[0037] Saturated oil
[0038] Here, the term "saturated oil" means an oil having the structure which does not comprise unsaturated carbon-carbon bonds, i.e. carbon-carbon double or triple bonds.
[0039] In one preferred embodiment, the saturated oil is a saturated triglyceride oil.
[0040] Preferably, the saturated triglyceride oil has the following formula (I) : CH2 (OOCR1) CH (OOCR2) CH2 (OOCR3) (I)
[0041] wherein R1, R2 and R3 are independently chosen from C6-C30 alkyl.
[0042] Advantageously, in formula (I) , R1, R2 and R3 are independently chosen from C6-C24 alkyl, preferably C6-C20 alkyl, more preferably C6-C14 alkyl, more preferably C6-C12 alkyl, most preferably C6-C10 alkyl, said alkyl is linear or branched.
[0043] In formula (I) , R1, R2 and R3 may be different, or two or all of R1, R2 and R3 may be the same.
[0044] Examples of saturated triglyceride oil according to formula (I) are given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook.
[0045] Preferred saturated triglyceride oils according to formula (I) are obtained from carboxylic acids of carbon chain length ranging from C6 to C24, preferably from C6 to C20, and more preferably from C6 to C18, linear or branched, and glycerol.
[0046] In some embodiments, the saturated triglyceride oils according to formula (I) are synthetic.
[0047] In some embodiments, the triglycerides according to formula (I) are of plant origin. For example, the plant oils that comprise triglyceride according to formula (I) , or triglyceride according to formula (I) obtained from the plant oils can be used.
[0048] As examples of synthetic triglycerides, mention may be made of, for example, caprylyl / capryl triglyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, and glyceryl tri(caprate / caprylate) .
[0049] As examples of triglycerides of plant origin, mention may be made of, for example, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated safflower oil and hydrogenated peanut oil.
[0050] It is preferred that the saturated oil comprises a mixture of Capric and Caprylic triglyceride. In one embodiment, the ratio of Capric to Caprylic in the saturated triglyceride is in the range of about 60: 40 to about 80: 20 and preferably is about 70: 30.
[0051] The products comprising a mixture of Capric and Caprylic triglyceride include, but are not limited to, the products which are commercially available as Crodamol GTCC, NEOBEE 1053, NEOBEE 895, or M-5. Further, the products comprising a mixture of Capric and Caprylic triglyceride can include, but are not limited to, C10-18 triglycerides, Glyceryl Dibehenate (and) Tribehenin (and) Glyceryl Behenate, Caprylic / Capric / Myristic / Stearic triglyceride, Capric / Caprylic triglyceride, and Caprylic / Capric / Succinic triglyceride. One preferred example of the mixture of Capric and Caprylic triglyceride is Capric / Caprylic triglyceride under the trademark of ESTOL 1527 from CRODA.
[0052] Advantageously, the saturated oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 3 wt. %to about 40 wt. %, more preferably from about 5 wt. %to about 35 wt. %, most preferably from about 8 wt. %to about 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0053] Unsaturated oil
[0054] Here, the term "unsaturated oil" means an oil having the structure which comprises unsaturated carbon-carbon bonds, i.e. carbon-carbon double or triple bonds.
[0055] In one preferred embodiment, the unsaturated oil is chosen from the unsaturated oils of plant origin.
[0056] As examples of the unsaturated oil of plant origin, mention may be made of, for example, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Argania spinosa Kernel Oil, Apricot Oil, Zea Mays Germ Oil, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, and Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil. One preferred example of the unsaturated oil of plant origin is Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil under the trademark of FANCOR MEADOWFOAM SEED OIL from FANCOR (ELEMENTIS) .
[0057] Preferably, ifthe unsaturated oil is present, the amount thereof is about 5 wt. %or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0058] Advantageously, the unsaturated oil is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of about 5 wt. %or less, preferably about 2 wt. %or less, and more preferably about 0.5 wt. %or less, e.g. ranging from about 0.05 wt. %to about 5 wt. %, or about 0.1 wt. %to about 5 wt. %, preferably about 0.1 wt. %to about 2 wt. %, and more preferably about 0.1 wt. %to about 0.5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0059] The core may also comprise a fragrance.
[0060] The flagrance is not particularly limited.
[0061] The skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the flagrance through conventional means.
[0062] Hydrogel outer shell
[0063] According to the first aspect, the hydrogel capsules comprise the hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener.
[0064] Advantageously, the outer shell has a thickness of about 0.01-2 μm, preferably about 0.01-1.5 μm.
[0065] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “polysaccharides” is intended to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units.
[0066] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "sugar unit" is intended to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprises at least 4 carbon atoms.
[0067] The sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and / or by oxidation and / or by dehydration.
[0068] The sugar units that may be included in the polysaccharide thickener of the present invention are preferably derived from one or more of the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
[0069] Mention may in particular be made, by way of polysaccharides, of native gums such as:
[0070] a) tree or shrub exudates, including:
[0071] - gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid) ;
[0072] - ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid) ;
[0073] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid) ;
[0074] - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose) ;
[0075] b) gums derived from algae, including:
[0076] - agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose) ;
[0077] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid) ;
[0078] - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate) ;
[0079] c) gums derived from seeds or tubers, including:
[0080] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose) ;
[0081] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose) ;
[0082] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose) ;
[0083] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose) ;
[0084] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose) ;
[0085] d) microbial gums, including:
[0086] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) ;
[0087] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid) ;
[0088] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer) .
[0089] The polysaccharide (s) of the composition according to the invention can also be chosen from mixtures of the polysaccharides above.
[0090] These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. As physical treatment, mention may in particular be made of a heat treatment.
[0091] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may especially be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.
[0092] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, and locust bean gums.
[0093] The non-ionicguar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups.
[0094] Among the C1-C6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, by way of example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
[0095] These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
[0096] The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
[0097] Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
[0098] The cationic guar gum is preferably hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, typically commercially available under the tradename of JAGUAR C 162, from the company Rhodia.
[0099] Particularly preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from:
[0100] - agar,
[0101] - non-ionic guar gums,
[0102] - cationic hydroxyalkyl guar gums, and
[0103] - combinations of these compounds,
[0104] these polysaccharide thickeners being optionally modified by a heat treatment, an esterification reaction, an etherification reaction, an amidation reaction or an oxidation reaction,
[0105] Even more preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is selected from agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and a combination thereof.
[0106] The polysaccharide thickener can be mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc. ) , organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc. ) , and mixed organic / mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates. Among the cellulose ester ethers, mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
[0107] The polysaccharide thickener can non-ionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example, Ethocel standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical) ; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example, Natrosol 250 HHR provided by Ashland) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example, Klucel EF from Aqualon) ; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example, Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical) , hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example, Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
[0108] The polysaccharide thickener can be anionic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company Aqualon) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and the sodium salts thereof.
[0109] The polysaccharide thickener can be cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, such as (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted especially with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names L 200 and H 100 by the company National Starch.
[0110] Preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from agar, non-ionic guar gums, cationic hydroxyalkyl guar gums, (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, and combinations thereof.
[0111] More preferably, the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from a combination of agar and cationic hydroxyalkyl guar gum such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimoniu m chloride.
[0112] In a most particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the hydrogel outer shell comprises at least two distinct polysaccharides thickener such as those mentioned above.
[0113] In particular in this preferred embodiment, the hydrogel outer shell comprises a combination of agar and cationic hydroxyalkyl guar gum such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0114] Advantageously, the polysaccharide thickener is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.05 wt. %to about 2 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 wt. %to about 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.2 wt. %to about 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0115] Advantageously, the hydrogel outer shell of the capsule comprises from about 0.1 wt. %to about 2 wt. %of agar and from about 0.05 wt. %to about 2 wt. %of cationic hydroxyalkylguar, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0116] More advantageously, the hydrogel outer shell of the capsules comprises from about 0.1 wt. %to about 1 wt. %of agar and from about 0.05 wt. %to about 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the present invention.
[0117] The shell may also comprise a pigment.
[0118] The pigment is not particularly limited.
[0119] For example, the pigment can be selected from titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, alumina, silica, aluminum hydroxide, chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, aluminum powder, copper powder, silver powder, gold powder, barium sulfate, carbon black, mica, and a mixture thereof.
[0120] In some embodiments, the hydrogel outer shell in the composition according to the present invention comprises mica as pigment.
[0121] Advantageously, the pigment is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.01 wt. %to about 5 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 wt. %to about 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] Liquid medium
[0123] The liquid medium in the composition according to the invention is a hydroalcoholic medium.
[0124] Preferably, the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium comprising water and monoalcohols and / or polyols, preferably polyols.
[0125] The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols of the cosmetic composition may be glycols or compounds with numerous hydroxyl groups. In some cases, the one or more polyols is / are selected from the group consisting of C2-C32 polyols. The one or more polyols are liquid at ambient temperature (25℃) . The one or more polyols may have from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
[0126] Monoalcohols can be ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.
[0127] Polyols that may be included in the compositions of the present disclosure, in certain instances, include from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, polyethylene glycols, caprylyl glycol, diglycerin, glycerin, or mixtures thereof. In some cases, the polyol is butylene glycol. In some further cases, the at least one polyol comprises butylene glycol. Additionally, in some cases, the compositions comprise at least butylene glycol, and one or more polyols other than butylene glycol such as propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and / or glycerin.
[0128] Non-limiting examples of polyols that may, optionally, be included in the cosmetic include and / or may be chosen from alkanediols such as glycerin, 1, 2, 6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1, 4-diol, 2-ethyl-1, 3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, and 4-methyl-1, 2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, propylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, sorbitol, sorbitan, triacetin, and a mixture thereof.
[0129] The one or more polyols may, optionally, be glycols or glycol ethers such as, e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, e.g., monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e.g., monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol. In some cases, the one or more polyols may include or are chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerin, and a mixture thereof.
[0130] Preferably, the polyols are selected from the group consisting of hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and combinations thereof.
[0131] Even more preferably, the polyol comprises butylene glycol, in particular, 1, 3-butylene glycol. Most preferably, the butylene glycol is produced by biotechnology.
[0132] Advantageously, the polyol (s) is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 2 wt. %to about 50 wt. %, more preferably from about 4 wt. %to about 40 wt. %, most preferably from about 4 wt. %to about 20 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 40 wt. %to about 80 wt. %, preferably from about 50 wt. %to about 75 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] In some embodiments, the liquid medium comprises about 50-85 wt. %of water in the medium, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] Adjuvants or additives
[0136] The liquid medium or the hydrogel outer shell of the present invention may comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for instance preserving agents and bactericides, hydrophilic thickener hair conditioners.
[0137] Preferably, the liquid medium comprises a hydrophilic thickener, which is preferably selected from (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hyd roxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and a combination thereof.
[0138] The hydrophilic thickener is different from the polysaccharide thickener mentioned above.
[0139] As hair conditioner, mention can be made of cationic polymers, fatty alcohol, fatty ester, silicones, aminosilicones.
[0140] If presents, the hydrophilic thickener in the liquid medium is present in an amount ranging from about 0.05 wt. %to about 5 wt. %, preferably from about 0.1 wt. %to about 3 wt. %, more preferably from about 0.1 wt. %to about 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] Preferably, the liquid medium comprises about 0.05 wt %to about 1 wt %of hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] Composition
[0143] According to the first aspect of the present invention, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning the hair, comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises:
[0144] a) an inner core comprising at least one saturated oil and optionally at least one unsaturated oil; and
[0145] b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener,
[0146] wherein the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.
[0147] Preferably, the weight ratio of the hydrogel capsules to the liquid medium is from about 97: 3 to 80: 20, preferably from about 95: 5 to 90: 10.
[0148] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a composition for conditioning the hair, comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
[0149] a) an inner core comprising from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %of caprylyl / capryl triglyceride and optionally from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %of Limnanthes Alba (Meadow foam) Seed Oil; and
[0150] b) a hydrogel outer shell comprising from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and water;
[0151] wherein the liquid medium comprises from 2 wt. %to 40 wt. %of polyol, especially butylene glycol, from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, especially, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and water.
[0152] Preparation and use
[0153] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by firstly preparing capsules and then suspending the hydrogel capsules in the liquid medium.
[0154] The capsules can be prepared with a known process. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be prepared as follows:
[0155] 1) a phase (A) for the hydrogel outer shell is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the hydrogel outer shell;
[0156] 2) a phase (B) for the inner core is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the inner core;
[0157] 3) a liquid medium is prepared separately to include all ingredients in the medium;
[0158] 4) hydrogel capsules are formed in a cooling base by a dripping process with both phases (A) and (B) ;
[0159] 5) the hydrogel capsules formed are cleaned and mixed with the liquid medium so that the hydrogel capsules are suspended in the liquid medium.
[0160] The process for producing hydrogel capsules are well known in the art. In particular, the hydrogel capsules can be prepared through phase separation with different surface tensions.
[0161] For example, a three-flow concentric dripper can be used to prepare hydrogel capsules, the center is for the core phase, the middle layer is for the hydrogel outer shell concentrically wrapped the core phase, the outermost layer is for a gas flow or cooling fluid.
[0162] The composition according to the present invention can be used individually or mixed with cationic hair-treatment system to improve hair conditioning benefits.
[0163] The use of the composition can be done on wet or dry hair.
[0164] According to the second aspect of the present invention, a process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition as described above onto the hair.
[0165] In some embodiments, the process comprises the step of mixing the composition according to the present invention with a hair composition comprising a cationic conditioner and then applying the mixture obtained onto the hair.
[0166] The conditioning composition comprising a cationic conditioner is not particularly limited. For example, it can be any commonly used in the art, such as distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyitrimethylammonium chloride, behentrimontum chloride, cetrimonium chloride oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, di (C1-C2 alkyl) (C12-C22 alkyl) hydroxy (C1-C2alkyl) ammonium salt, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propanetallowdiammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
[0167] Furthermore, the composition according to the present invention can be combined with a mask preferably containing one or more cationic conditioner and then put on the hair.
[0168] The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be interpreted as limiting the scope.EXAMPLES
[0169] Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
[0170] Table 1
[0171] Invention Examples 1-2
[0172] Compositions according to invention examples (Ex. ) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE. ) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed in gram) :
[0173] Table 2
[0174] * The average diameter size can be measured with a Brookhaven type particle sizer based on quasielastic light scattering (QELS) .
[0175] * The pigments in Table 2 include 0.4596 wt. %of IRON OXIDES (and) MICA and 0.0353 wt. %of MICA (and) TITANIUM DIOXIDE (and) IRON OXIDES (and) SILICA in Table 1, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0176] Preparation procedure:
[0177] The compositions above were prepared from a process comprising the following steps:
[0178] 1) a phase (A) for the hydrogel outer shell was prepared separately to include water, agar, hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride and pigments;
[0179] 2) a phase (B) for the inner core was prepared separately to include caprylic / capric triglyceride and / or Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil and / or glycine soja (soybean) oil and / or gossypium herbaceum (cotton) seed oil;
[0180] 3) a liquid medium was prepared separately to include butylene glycol, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and water;
[0181] 4) hydrogel capsules were formed in a cooling base by a dripping process with both phases (A) and (B) ;
[0182] in particular, with syringe pumps, the phase (B) was transported to the center of a three-flow concentric dripper, the phase (A) was transported to the middle layer of the concentric dripper, a concentric liquid column was formed by the phase (A) , and compressed air was blown out from the outmost layer of the concentric dripper to force the liquid column and the phase (B) to be blown into small hydrogel capsules and drip into a collection container;
[0183] 5) the hydrogel capsules formed, which were spherical, were cleaned and mixed with the liquid medium so that the hydrogel capsules were suspended in the liquid medium.
[0184] Evaluation
[0185] Stability evaluation and sensorial evaluation were performed on the compositions prepared above.
[0186] Stability
[0187] Stability of each composition can be assessed based on quick stability tests under extreme conditions, full stability, and shaking stability as follows.
[0188] Stability tests:
[0189] The following tests were conducted
[0190] 1) Stability in extreme conditions
[0191] ● The sample to be tested was placed in the oven at 50 ℃ for 2 weeks.
[0192] ● The sample to be tested was placed in the fridge at -10 ℃ for 24 hours.
[0193] 2) Full stability
[0194] ● The samples to be tested were placed in an oven at 45℃, 4 ℃ and room temperature, respectively, for two months.
[0195] After each test, the organoleptic properties Aspect, Color and Odor of the
[0196] sample were checked.
[0197] The sample is deemed stable if there is no separation between hydrogel capsules and the liquid medium and no change on organoleptic properties.
[0198] 3) Shaking stability
[0199] The sample to be tested was filled in a plastic box, and placed in a shacking plaque during a period of 60 minutes.
[0200] After the test finished, the samples were open and checked if there was any breakage of the capsules. A white color means a breakage of the hydrogel capsules due to emulsification between the oil in the inner core and the liquid medium. The test was repeated for 2 times, if the both of 2 times'result is OK, we record as “stable” , otherwise record as “unstable” .
[0201] The results for stability tests are summarized in Table 3.
[0202] Table 3
[0203] In vivo expert sensorial evaluation
[0204] A comparison test on head between each composition of Ex. 1-2 and CE. 1-4 in combination with a hair mask (available as Kerastase Chronologiste Mask from the company L'Oréal) was carried out by inviting 6 models (women aged 30-50 years old with middle to high damage hair level) to put the composition to be tested on the hair mask, to mix the beads in the mask and then apply the hair mask with the composition to be tested on the head, and asking hair experts (hairdresser in Salon) to provide feedback on the usage and cosmetic performance.
[0205] The sensorial evaluation results show that the compositions of the invention Ex. 1-2 with hair mask provide an improved smoothness over CE. 1, 2, 4 with hair mask, and similar to CE. 3.
[0206] The mixing of the beads with the mask is easier with the compositions of the invention.
[0207] The resulting inventive compositions after mixing are more uniform with no bead residue, thus rendering easier the application step onto the hair. The resulting inventive mixtures are also easier to rinse.
[0208] It can be seen that the compositions according to the present invention are stable and can provide the hair with conditioning benefits. Meanwhile, the compositions according to the present invention can be applied easily and uniformly on the hair, and be rinsed off easily.
[0209] The results for smoothness tests are summarized in Table 4.
[0210] Table 4
[0211] * Score: 0-5, 0-means bad smoothness / smell; 5-means best smoothness / smell, and the score of 3 or higher is acceptable.
[0212] From the data in Tables 3-4, it can be seen that the composition according to the present invention can bring both a good stability at different temperatures and a good smoothness. By contrast, the comparative compositions show an unstable formulation and / or an unacceptable smoothness or smell.
Claims
1.A composition for conditioning the hair comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprise:a) an inner core comprising at least one saturated oil; andb) a hydrogel outer shell comprising water and at least one polysaccharide thickener,wherein the liquid medium is a hydroalcoholic medium.2.Composition according to claim 1, wherein the saturated oil is a triglyceride oil with the following formula (I) CH2 (OOCR1) CH (OOCR2) CH2 (OOCR3) (I)wherein R1, R2 and R3 are independently chosen from C6-C30 alkyl, preferably, R1, R2 and R3 are independently chosen from C6-C20 alkyl, more preferably, R1, R2 and R3 are independently chosen from C6-C12 alkyl, said alkyl is linear or branched,preferably the saturated oil is a mixture of Capric and Caprylic triglyceride, and more preferably the ratio of Capric to Caprylic in the saturated triglyceride is in the range of 60: 40 to 80: 20.3.Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the saturated oil is present in an amount ranging from 3 wt. %to 40 wt. %, more preferably from 5 wt. %to 35 wt. %, most preferably from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.4.Composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the inner core further comprises at least one unsaturated oil, the amount thereof is 5 wt. %or less, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.5.Composition according to claim 4, wherein the unsaturated oil is selected from the group consisting of Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Argania spinosa Kernel Oil, Apricot Oil, Zea Mays Germ Oil, Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum (Cotton) Seed Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, and a combination thereof, and is preferably Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil.6.Composition according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from agar, non-ionic guar gums, cationic hydroxyalkyl guar gums, (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, and combinations thereof.7.Composition according to claim 6, wherein the polysaccharide thickener is chosen from a combination of agar and cationic hydroxyalkyl guar gums such as hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.8.Composition according to any of claims 1-7, wherein the polysaccharide thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 1.5 wt. %, more preferably from 0.2 wt. %to 1.0 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.9.Composition according to any of claims 1-8, wherein the hydroalcoholic medium comprises a polyol having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, even more preferably, the polyol is selected from hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, and combinations thereof.10.Composition according to any of claims 1-9, wherein the liquid medium comprises a hydrophilic thickener, which is preferably selected from (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses; (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; (poly) hydroxy (Cl-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses, and a combination thereof.11.Composition according to claim 10, wherein the hydrophilic thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.05 wt. %to 5 wt. %, preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 3 wt. %, more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.12.Composition according to claim 1, comprising hydrogel capsules suspended in a liquid medium, wherein the capsules comprise, relative to the total weight of the composition:a) an inner core comprising from 8 wt. %to 25 wt. %of caprylyl / capryl triglyceride and optionally from 0.1 wt. %to 0.5 wt. %of Limnanthes Alba (Meadow foam) Seed Oil; andb) a hydrogel outer shell comprising from 0.1 wt. %to 1 wt. %of agar and from 0.05 wt. %to 1 wt. %of hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, and water;wherein the liquid medium comprises from 2 wt. %to 40 wt. %of polyol, especially butylene glycol, from 0.1 wt. %to 2 wt. %of (poly) hydroxy (C1-C4) alkyl (C1-C4) alkylcelluloses, especially, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose and water.13.Composition according to any of claims 1-12, wherein the hydrogel capsules have a particle size of 0.3-15 mm, preferably 1-10 mm, more preferably 2-6 mm, and / or the outer shell has a thickness of 0.01-2μm, preferably 0.01-1.5μm.14.Composition according to any of claims 1-13, wherein the weight ratio of the hydrogel capsules to the liquid medium is from 97: 3 to 80: 20, preferably from 95: 5 to 90: 10.15.A process for conditioning the hair comprising applying the composition according to any of claims 1-14 onto the hair.16.The process according to claim 15 comprising the step of mixing the composition according to any of claims 1-14 with a hair composition comprising a cationic conditioner and then applying the mixture obtained onto the hair.