Skincare composition and methods of manufacturing same

Abstract

Provided are skincare compositions comprising (a) an emollient; (b) an occlusive; (c) a humectant; (d) a processed oat ingredient; (e) a rheological modifier; and (f) water. Also provided are method of using and processing said compositions.

Description

[0001] SKINCARE COMPOSITION AND METHODS OF MANUFACTURING SAME

[0002] FIELD

[0003] The present invention generally relates to skincare compositions which are suitable for use on skin afflicted with atopic dermatitis. More specifically, the present invention relates to compositions comprising an emollient, an occlusive, humectant, a processed oat ingredient, and a rheological modifier; and water.

[0004] BACKGROUND

[0005] Atopic dermatitis, also known as eczema, is a chronic relapsing pruritic inflammation of the skin that can compromise quality of life. Atopic dermatitis affects 10-20% of children and 1-3% of adults worldwide with increasing prevalence in highly industrialized countries. Atopic dermatitis is characterized by an impaired epidermal barrier, dysregulation of innate and adaptive immunity, and a high susceptibility to bacterial colonization and infection. Hence, lubricants (ointments & creams) and topical or oral corticosteroids, which act on the immune system by blocking the production of substances that trigger allergic and inflammatory actions, remain the first-line treatments. Similarly, antihistamine can also be administrated. If pruritus does not respond to standard treatments, antibiotics might be considered.

[0006] Lubricants are effective in keeping the skin hydrated and repairing the skin barrier. However, the cosmetic acceptance of these types of formulations may be poor which is reflected in a lower compliance among the atopic dermatitis patients. Moreover, this approach is often not sufficient by itself. Corticosteroids on the other hand are powerful medications but are known to induce side effects, some of which might be severe in case of long term usage. While antihistamine can be used to treat itch associated with atopic dermatitis, they can cause sleepiness and may not help in all cases of atopic dermatitis. Finally, the use of antibiotics is controversial due to the raising occurrence of bacterial resistance. Additionally, a treatment will ideally address the visual appearance of skin afflicted with eczema, and / or otherwise provide other benefits perceived by the user. However, traditional ingredients are often too harsh for use on the sensitive skin of individuals with eczema.

[0007] Moreover, many eczema treatments are very thick and / or ointment-like. Such products, even where effective for skin with eczema, may be difficult to manufacture due to the product being too viscous for typical manufacturing processes.

[0008] Accordingly, there exists a need for topical compositions which are suitable for use on eczematic skin and can address one or more of the concerns above.

[0009] SUMMARY

[0010] One aspect of the invention pertains to a skincare composition comprising: a. an emollient; b. an occlusive; c. a humectant; d. a processed oat ingredient; and e. a rheological modifier; and f. water.

[0011] In one or more embodiments, the composition is in the form of a cream. In some embodiments, the composition has a viscosity of about 35000 CPs to about 140000 CPs. In one or more embodiments, the composition has a strain sweep of about y<> 0.01000 to about 0.06000. In some embodiments, the rheological modifier comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. In one or more embodiments, the rheological modifier is present in an amount of from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of esters; silicone-con taining compounds; plant, nut, and vegetable oils and butters; and combinations thereof. In one or more embodiments, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone, helianthus annus seed oil, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the occlusive comprises petrolatum. In one or more embodiments, the occlusive is present in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 8 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the humectant comprises glycerin.

[0012] The embodiments described herein can be combined in a variety of combinations of the features described herein. Thus, for example, another aspect of the invention pertains to a skincare composition comprising: a. about 2 to about 10 wt. % by total weight of the composition of an emollient is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone, helianthus annus seed oil, and combinations thereof; b. about 1 to about 8 wt. % by total weight of the composition of an occlusive comprising petrolatum; c. about 0.5 to about 20 wt. % by total weight of the composition of a humectant comprising glycerin; d. about 0.1 to about 3 wt. % by total weight of the composition of a processed oat ingredient; and e. about 0.1 to about 3 wt. % by total weight of the composition of a rheological modifier comprising hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0013] Another aspect of the invention pertains to a method of processing one or more of the skincare compositions described herein, the method comprising pouring the skincare composition. In one or more embodiments, the skincare composition is poured into ajar.

[0014] Another aspect of the invention pertains to a method of treating skin, the method comprising topically applying one or more of the skincare compositions described herein to skin. In some embodiments, the skin comprises skin afflicted with eczema. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF FIGURES

[0015] FIG. 1 is a graphical representation of a flow curve of a composition in accordance with one or more embodiments of the invention versus a comparative composition;

[0016] FIG. 2 is a graphical representation of a flow curve of a composition in accordance with one or more embodiments of the invention versus a commercially available product;

[0017] FIG. 3 is a graphical representation of a strain sweep study of a composition in accordance with one or more embodiments of the invention versus a commercially available product; and

[0018] FIG. 4 is a is a graphical representation of a texture study of a composition in accordance with one or more embodiments of the invention versus a commercially available product.

[0019] DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0020] It is believed that one skilled in the art can, based on the description herein, utilize the present invention to its fullest extent. The following specific embodiments are to be construed as merely illustrative, and not limitative of the remainder of the disclosure in any way whatsoever.

[0021] Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the invention belongs. Also, all publications, patent applications, patents, and other references mentioned herein are incorporated by reference.

[0022] Unless otherwise indicated, percentages used to express amounts of ingredients are percentage by weight (referred to as “weight %,” “wt%”, “% by weight” or “% (WAV)”) by total weight of the composition. Similarly, weight ratios used to express relative proportions of ingredients are also determined using percentage by weight (i.e., weight ratios are calculated by dividing the percentage by weight of one ingredient by another). Unless stated otherwise, all ranges are inclusive of the endpoints, e.g., “from 4 to 9” includes the endpoints 4 and 9.

[0023] As used herein, “cosmetically acceptable” means that the ingredients the term describes are suitable for use in contact with tissues (e.g., the skin or hair) without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, or the like. As used herein, the term “safe and effective amount” means an amount sufficient to induce the desired effect, but low enough to avoid serious side effects. The safe and effective amount of the compound, extract, or composition will vary with, e.g., the age, health and environmental exposure of the end user, the duration and nature of the treatment, the specific extract, ingredient, or composition employed, the particular carrier utilized, and like factors.

[0024] As used herein, the term “about” refers to within 5% weight, within 4% weight, within 3% weight, within 2.5% weight, within 2% weight, or within 1% weight of a disclosed value.

[0025] One aspect of the invention pertains to a skincare composition comprising: a. an emollient; b. an occlusive; c. a humectant; d. a processed oat ingredient; and e. a rheological modifier; and f. water.

[0026] It has been surprisingly discovered that such compositions are thick to provide suitable treatment for individuals with eczema, but at the same time are still spreadable and can be easily manufactured. According to dermatologists, thick cream formulations are typically used in prolonged treatment of eczema. Such formulation texture is denser, similar to an ointment, but more intense than tube lotion products, and have greater efficacy benefits, including a greater patient adherence to the treatment. However, repair products on the market have a texture that is difficult to spread. Therefore, there is a need thicker formulations that are high viscosity and yet have excellent spreadability, as with the case of the compositions described herein.

[0027] Additionally, in terms of manufacturing, a formulation should not have an impact on reactors and filling line, as the same reactors and filling line may be used for other products in other formats. It is known that high viscosity products, such as ointments, require hot filling (around 40°C), which makes the process more expensive and adds complexity to the process. However, the compositions described herein are still able to be made on typical manufacturing lines. While not wishing to be bound to any particular theory, it is thought that special selection of the rheological modifier allows for the above advantages to be achieved, and particularly through the use of hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

[0028] Emollient

[0029] Emollients include compounds that help to maintain the soft, smooth, and pliable appearance of the skin (e.g., by remaining on the skin surface or in the stratum corneum to act as a lubricant). Examples of suitable emollients include those found in Chapter 35, pages 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, by G Zocchi) in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, Published in 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc New York, N.Y.), and include, but are not limited to, esters; silicone-containing compounds; plant, nut, and vegetable oils and butters; and combinations thereof. In one or more embodiments, the emollient is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone, helianthus annus seed oil, and combinations thereof.

[0030] The total amount of emollients may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.01, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, or 5 to about 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 or 12 wt.% of the total composition. In one or more embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from about 1 wt.% to about 11 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from about 2 wt.% to about 10 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from about 5 wt.% to about 10 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the emollient is present in an amount ranging from about 6 wt.% to about 9 wt.% by total weight of the composition.

[0031] Occlusive

[0032] Occlusives are hydrophobic substances that promote water retention by forming a barrier on the skin that will prevent moisture loss. Oftentimes, occlusive agents are, by their very nature, oleaginous having a greasy texture and are difficult to spread. Some examples of occlusive agents include petrolatum, lanolin, and mineral oil. In one or more embodiments, the occlusive comprises petrolatum. In one or more embodiments, the occlusive is present in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 8 wt.% by total weight of the composition, or from about 1.5 to about 6 wt.%, or from about 2 to about 5 wt.%, or from about 3 to about 5 wt.%, or about 4 wt.%.

[0033] Humectant

[0034] What is meant by a humectant is a compound intended to increase the water content of the top layers of skin (e.g., hygroscopic compounds). Examples of suitable humectants include those found in Chapter 35, pages 399-415 (Skin Feel Agents, by G Zocchi) in Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology (edited by A. Barel, M. Paye and H. Maibach, Published in 2001 by Marcel Dekker, Inc New York, NY) and include, but are not limited to, glycerin, sorbitol or trehalose (e.g., a, a- trehalose, P,P-trehalose, a,P-trehalose) or a salt or ester thereof (e.g., trehalose 6-phosphate). In one or more embodiments, the humectant comprises glycerin.

[0035] When present, the humectant may be present in an amount of from about 1% to about 30 %, about 1 to about 20 %, about 2 % to about 15 %, about 5 % to about 15 %, about 10 % to about 15 %, about 12% to about 15%, about 13 % to about 15%, or about 14% by weight % of the total composition. In one or more embodiments, the humectant comprises glycerin and is present in an amount of from about 1% to about 30 %, about 1 to about 20 %, about 2 % to about 15 %, about 5 % to about 15 %, about 10 % to about 15 %, about 11% to about 14%, about 11 % to about 13%, or about 12% by weight % of the total composition.

[0036] Processed Oat Ingredient

[0037] As used herein, the term “processed oat ingredient” refers to an ingredient that is typically derived from a part of the oat plant (Avena sativa). Said ingredient can be either a processing (e.g., an extract, milling, fermenting) of one or more parts of the oat plant (e.g., grain, leaf, stem, seed)or can be a molecule found in the oat plant (e.g., beta-glucan, flavonoids, avenanthramides, lipids, peptides, etc.). The definition is intended to cover processed oat ingredients which are derived from other sources other than oat (e.g., from another plant or chemically synthesized), but are otherwise associated with oat. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient is selected from the group consisting of oat extract, colloidal oatmeal, oat flour, oat bran, oat protein, oat peptide, oat oil, fermented oat, avenanthramides, beta-glucan, modified oat grain material (e.g., chemically, enzymatically-, microorganism-modified), and combinations thereof. As used herein, “colloidal oatmeal” means the powder resulting from the grinding and further processing of whole oat grain meeting United States Standards for Number 1 or Number 2 oats. The colloidal oatmeal has a particle size distribution as follows: not more than 3 percent of the total particles exceed 150 micrometers in size and not more than 20 percent of the total particles exceed 75 micrometers in size. Examples of suitable colloidal oatmeals include, but are not limited to, “Tech-0” available from the Beacon Corporation and colloidal oatmeals available from Quaker. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises oat extract, colloidal oatmeal, and oat oil. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises oat extract. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises colloidal oatmeal. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises oat oil. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient is selected from the group consisting of oat extract, colloidal oatmeal, oat oil and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises oat extract, colloidal oatmeal, and oat oil. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises avenanthramides. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises fermented oat. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises beta-glucan.

[0038] The processed oat ingredient(s) may be present in amounts ranging from about 0.01, 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 4.5, or 5 to about 5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 12, 15, 20, 25 or 30 wt.% of the total composition. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt.% to about 10 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.1 wt.% to about 5 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt.% to about 5 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt.% to about 4 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount ranging from about 0.5 wt.% to about 3 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount ranging from about 1 wt.% to about 3 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount of about 1 wt.% to about 2 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount of about 1 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient(s) is present in an amount of about 2 wt.% by total weight of the composition.

[0039] In one or more embodiments, the processed oat ingredient comprises colloidal oatmeal, and the colloidal oatmeal is present in an amount of about 0.5 wt.% to about 3 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colloidal oatmeal is present in an amount of about 1 wt.% to about 3 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the colloidal oatmeal is present in an amount of about 1 wt.% to about 2 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In some embodiments, the colloidal oatmeal is present in an amount of about 1 wt.% by total weight of the composition. In one or more embodiments, the colloidal oatmeal is present in an amount of about 2 wt.% by total weight of the composition.

[0040] Rheological Modifier

[0041] Rheological modifiers according to the present invention are those which can increase viscosity but allow the composition to remain pourable. Pourability may be evaluated by strain sweep and flow curves, as described below. In one or more embodiments, the rheological modifier comprises a nonionic starch-based rheological modifier. In further embodiments, the rheological modifier comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, available as STRUCTURE® XL from Nouryon.

[0042] The rheological modifier may present in an amount of from about 0.25 wt.% to about 2.5 wt.%, from about 0.5 wt.% to about 2 wt.%, from about 0.75 wt.% to about 1.5 wt.%, from about 0.75 wt.% to about 1.25 wt.%, or about 1 wt.%.

[0043] Carrier

[0044] Any suitable carrier may be used in the compositions. In some embodiments, the carrier is a cosmetically-acceptable carrier. As will be recognized by those of skill in the art, cosmetically acceptable carriers comprise carriers that are suitable for use in contact with the body, in particular the skin, without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, irritation, allergic response, and the like. A safe and effective amount of carrier is from about 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, or 98% to about 85, 90, 95, 98, 99, 99.1, 99.5 or 99.9% by weight of the composition. The carrier can be in a wide variety of forms. For example, carriers in the form of emulsions, including, but not limited to, oil-in-water, water-in-oil, water-in-oil-in-water, and oil-in- water-in- silicone emulsions, are useful herein. These emulsions can cover a broad range of viscosities, e.g., from about 100 cps to about 200,000 cps using a Brookfield RVT viscometer.

[0045] The following are non-limiting examples of carriers. Other carriers can be formulated by those of ordinary skill in the art. In one embodiment, the carrier contains water. In a further embodiment, the carrier may also contain one or more aqueous or organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents include, but are not limited to: dimethyl isosorbide; isopropyl myristate; surfactants of cationic, anionic and nonionic nature; vegetable oils; mineral oils; waxes; gums; synthetic and natural gelling agents; alkanols; glycols; and polyols. Examples of glycols include, but are not limited to, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentalene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, capryl glycol, glycerol, butanediol and hexanetriol, and copolymers or mixtures thereof. Examples of alkanols include, but are not limited to, those having from about 2 carbon atoms to about 12 carbon atoms (e.g., from about 2 carbon atoms to about 4 carbon atoms), such as isopropanol and ethanol. Examples of polyols include, but are not limited to, those having from about 2 carbon atoms to about 15 carbon atoms (e.g., from about 2 carbon atoms to about 10 carbon atoms) such as propylene glycol. The organic solvents may be present in the carrier in an amount, based upon the total weight of the carrier, of from about 1 percent to about 99.99 percent (e.g., from about 20 percent to about 50 percent). Water may be present in the carrier (prior to use) in an amount, based upon the total weight of the carrier, of from about 5 percent to about 95 percent (e.g., from about 50 percent to about 90 percent). Solutions may contain any suitable amounts of solvent, including from about 40 to about 99.99%. Some solutions contain from about 50 to about 99.9%, from about 60 to about 99%, from about 70 to about 99%, from about 80 to about 99%, or from about 90 to 99% of solvent.

[0046] A type of product that may be formulated from a solution is a cream. A cream typically contains from about 5% to about 50% (e.g., from about 10% to about 20%) of an emollient(s) and from about 45% to about 85% (e.g., from about 50% to about 75%) of water.

[0047] Yet another type of product that may be formulated from a solution is an ointment. An ointment may contain a simple base of animal, vegetable, or synthetic oils or semi-solid 10 hydrocarbons. An ointment may contain from about 2% to about 10% of an emollient(s) plus from about 0.1% to about 2% of a thickening agent(s).

[0048] The compositions useful in the present invention can also be formulated as emulsions. If the carrier is an emulsion, from about 1% to about 10% (e.g., from about 2% to about 5%) of the carrier contains an emulsifier(s). Emulsifiers may be nonionic, anionic or cationic.

[0049] As used herein, the term “cream” means a predominantly water-containing topical preparation of rich texture having a viscosity of from about 35000 CPs to about 140000 CPs, (as measured by Brookfield RVT, with the following conditions: spindle T-C, 5 rpm, 1 min, 25°C) and tend to be thicker than lotions. Creams can be formulated as emulsions. Typically such lotions contain from 0.5% to about 5% of an emulsifier(s), while such creams would typically contain from about 1% to about 10% (e.g., from about 2% to about 5%) of an emulsifier(s). In one or more embodiments, the compositions described herein are in the form of a cream. A cream typically contains from about 5% to about 50% (e.g., from about 10% to about 20%) of an emollient(s) and from about 45% to about 85% (e.g., from about 50% to about 75%) of water. The skincare composition of claim 1, wherein the composition has a strain sweep of about y<> 0.01000 to about 0.06000.

[0050] Single emulsion skin care preparations, such as lotions and creams, of the oil-in-water type, and water-in-oil type are well-known in the art and are useful in the subject invention. Multiphase emulsion compositions, such as the water-in-oil-in-water type or the oil-in-water-in-oil type, are also useful in the subject invention. In general, such single or multiphase emulsions contain water, emollients, and emulsifiers as essential ingredients.

[0051] A variety of product forms and packaging may be suitable for any of the compositions described herein. As used herein, a “product” is optionally in finished packaged form. In one embodiment, the package is a container such as a plastic, metal or glass tube or jar containing the composition. The product may further contain additional packaging such as a plastic or cardboard box for storing such container. In one or more embodiments, the product includes a composition of the invention and contains instructions directing the user to apply the composition to the skin.

[0052] Methods of Manufacturing

[0053] As discussed above, even though the compositions described herein are sufficiently thick to constitute a cream that is suitable for skin afflicted with eczema, they remain pourable enough to be easily manufactured. Accordingly, another aspect of the invention pertains to a method of manufacturing or processing one or more of the compositions described herein, the method comprising pouring the skincare composition. Such pouring can be done after the composition is produced and ready to be put into packaging for delivery to users. In one or more embodiments, the skincare composition is poured into ajar.

[0054] Methods of Using

[0055] Various methods described herein pertain to topically applying one or more of the compositions described to skin, including skin affected by eczema. As described above, the compositions may be used for treating skin afflicted with eczema, for improving the appearance of skin afflicted with eczema, and / or other benefits to those having skin afflicted with eczema.

[0056] Any suitable method of topically applying the compositions described herein to the skin in need may be used. As used herein, “topically applying” means directly laying on or spreading on outer skin, by use of the hands or an applicator such as a wipe, roller, or spray. For example, the composition may be applied directly from a package to the skin in need, by hand to the skin in need, or may be transferred from a substrate such as a wipe or mask, or a combination of two or more thereof. In other embodiments, the composition may be applied via a dropper, tube, roller, spray, or added to a bath or otherwise to water to be applied to the skin, and the like. Such topical application may be to any skin in need of treatment on the body, for example skin of the face, lips, neck, chest, back, buttocks, arms, axilla, and / or legs.

[0057] The skin afflicted with eczema may comprise mild to moderate eczema. The compositions described herein may be applied to a lesional area on the skin afflicted with eczema. The lesional area may be one exhibiting a symptom selected from the group consisting of erythema, pruritus, exudation, excoriation, lichenification, dryness, tactile roughness, abnormal skin tone, burning, stinging, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the composition is applied to the face or body. The compositions may be applied to the skin as needed, or otherwise how often the user desires. In one or more embodiments, the composition is applied once or twice per day.

[0058] While the foregoing description represent exemplary embodiments of the present invention, it will be understood that various additions, modifications and substitutions may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the present invention. In particular, it will be clear to those skilled in the art that the present invention may be embodied in other specific forms, structures, arrangements, proportions, and with other elements, materials, and components, without departing from the spirit or essential characteristics thereof. One skilled in the art will appreciate that the invention may be used with many modifications of structure, arrangement, proportions, materials, and components and otherwise, used in the practice of the invention, which are particularly adapted to specific environments and operative requirements without departing from the principles of the present invention. The presently disclosed embodiments are therefore to be considered in all respects as illustrative and not restrictive, the scope of the invention being indicated by the appended claims, and not limited to the foregoing description. It will be appreciated that in the claims, the term “comprises / comprising” does not exclude the presence of other elements or steps. In addition, singular references do not exclude a plurality. The terms “a”, “an”, “first”, “second”, etc., do not preclude a plurality.

[0059] EXAMPLES

[0060] EXAMPLE 1 : Composition ingredient selection and preparation

[0061] Across the industry, there is a trend for thicker format products in the use of thickeners (such as carbomer, xanthan gum and waxes such as cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol) with a viscosity controller function, to achieve the appearance of a thick cream. A variety of thickeners were selected and tested, but as the percentage of these ingredients was increased, the final formulations had unpleasant sensory and instability properties.

[0062] Acrylate -based polymer gelling agents were also considered due to their viscoelastic properties and because they provide favorable shear effects. However, such acrylate-based polymers are swellable polymers that thicken through binding water by charge repulsion. Although cationic emulsifier has a salt (electrolyte) in the chain, so acrylates are also do not provide the requisite stability.

[0063] It was then discovered that an alternative rheological modifier ingredient, particularly hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, could contribute to obtain the rheology required and desired appearance for a thicker product, without increasing the viscosity so much that it could impact the sensory (consumer experience) and processability attributes mentioned above. Such an ingredient was also compatible with the formulation's cationic emulsifier.

[0064] In view of the above, inventive composition (Ex. 1) and comparative composition (Ex. Cl) were prepared in the following manner using the amounts shown in the table below. In a main vessel, water, chelating agent, glycerin and Avena sativa (oat) kernel flour were added with stirring at room temperature. After the Avena sativa (oat) kernel flour was fully dispersed in solution the temperature was increased to 75 °C. The distearyldimonium chloride was added with stirring until completely dissolved, and the temperature was increased to 80 ° C and held for 20 minutes. Next, the cetyl alcohol, petrolatum, isopropyl palmitate, helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimethicone, caprylyl glycol, glyceryl stearate, synthetic beeswax, and tocopheryl acetate were added to the main vessel. Stirring continued for 20 min at 80 °C to provide the uniform emulsion. The hydroxypropyl starch phosphate was added and the emulsion was allowed to begin cooling down to 35 °C. When the temperature reached 60 °C the SymGlucan was added. A uniform emulsion resulted upon cooling to 35 °C. Comparative compositions below were prepared in a similar manner with the ingredients according to the Table below.

[0065] Table: Compositions

[0066] EXAMPLE 2: Flow Curve - Impact on formulation comparison with and without 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate

[0067] In this Example, a rheology flow curve study was carried out. The flow curve measured the behavior of the sample when subjected to a shear rate (rotational analysis) in which the equipment measures the spindle velocity and torque to calculate shear rate and shear stress. The flow curve was carried out using a Thermo Scietific HAAKE RheoStress 6000 (ThermoFisher Scientific, Waltham, MA) (spindle with measuring geometry of PP35 - L08017; size: 35mm) with the instrument set to maintain a temperature of 25 °C. The shear rate was ramped logarithmically from 0.01 to 100 s-1 over a time of 180 seconds (collecting 100 data points), held at a shear rate of 100 s-1 for 60 seconds (collecting 10 data points), and then ramped back down from 100 to 0.01 s-1 over 180 seconds (collecting 100 data points). The table below provides detailed instrument settings.

[0068]

[0069] The results are shown in FIG. 1. The formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Ex. 1) was compared versus a substantially similar formulation without the addition of the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. As shown from FIG. 1, the viscosity of both formulations increased significantly in the first quadrant and then stabilized up to 100 in 1 / s. When the shear rate is maintained at lOOin 1 / s, the red curve (formula with the 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate) has a larger drop delta compared to the blue one and the return curves are practically superimposed. This demonstrates that the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate gives greater viscosity to the formulation, as expected, but in relation to the rheological behavior, under shear, it surprisingly presented the same profile as the formulation without 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (z.e. a thyxotropic profile) presenting lower viscosity in relation to the shear imposed on the sample. The fluid is considered to be thixotropic when this recovery process is sufficiently time dependent. Thixotropy is related to the time dependent microstructural rearrangements occurring in a shear thinning fluid following a step change in applied shear. These results indicated that during production this product would have good fluidity in the filling line.

[0070] EXAMPLE 3: Flow Curve - Commercial product compared against formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate

[0071] The flow curve experiment was repeated using the methods described in Example 2, but instead comparing a commercially-available product against the formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Ex. 1). The results are shown in FIG. 2. The viscosity, in addition to not being stabilized (dotted curve), continues to rise with the pressure imposed on the commercially- available product. The viscosity was also much higher than the formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (blue curve), the high viscosity resulted in reduced spreadability of the commercially-available product. The commercially available product showed shear thickening behavior where viscosity increases along with the increase of shear rate or shear stress. Shear thickening is an unwanted effect which can lead to major processing issues.

[0072] EXAMPLE 4: Strain Sweep - Commercial product compared against formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate

[0073] In this Example a rheology strain sweep study was performed. Strain sweep quantifies the viscoelastic response of the material to evaluate its microstructure through the properties of G' and G". The strain sweep was carried out using a Thermo Scietific HAAKE RheoStress 6000 (ThermoFisher Scientific, Waltham, MA) with a parallel plate geometry and the instrument set to maintain a temperature of 25 °C. The strain was varied logarithmically from 1 to 6% over 120 seconds at a frequency of 1 Hz (collecting 40 data points). Please the table below for detailed instrument settings.

[0074] The results are shown in FIG. 3, where a commercially-available product is compared against the formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate formula (Ex. 1). There was an indication of instability in the formulation of the commercially-available product, as it had a crossover in a region of low deformation. The formulation with 1 % hydroxypropyl starch phosphate did not have the crossover, which showed that at this shear rate the 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate formulation was stable.

[0075] EXAMPLE 5: Texture Study - Commercial product compared against formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate

[0076] A texture study was performed using a Texture Analyzer (Stable Micro Systems, UK) using the spreadability method. Spreadability is the ease of which a product can be spread and is related to the firmness of a product. Often the ease of spreading is associated with a loss in firmness. To carry out the method, a TTC Spreadability Fixture was used, which is a set of 90° clear acrylic cones in male / female combination. During the analysis, an increase in force was observed up to the point of maximum depth. This strength value can be described as the “firmness” at this specific depth. A firmer sample also reveals a correspondingly larger area that represents the total amount of force required to perform the cutting process. Both values were presented to rank the samples in the same order of spreadability and firmness. The probe continued its course until it was completely removed from the sample. Some data about the product adhesive behavior were obtained while returning the probe to its original position.

[0077] The results are shown in FIG. 4, where a commercially-available product was compared against the formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Ex. 1). The formulation with 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate had a smaller area under the curve than the commercially- available product, which resulted in lower values for firmness, stickiness, work of adhesion and work of shear, bringing better sensory input to the application and consumer experience over that of the commercially-available product.

[0078] EXAMPLE 6: Jar filling process - Formulation comparison with and without 1 % hydroxypropyl starch phosphate

[0079] A test was carried out on a manufacturing filling line for the formulation with 1 % hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Ex. 1), filling it in the same type of packaging and using the same filling line parameters that were used for comparative composition without the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (Ex. Cl). The rheology results described above indicate that the 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate composition should work on the filling line, however we wanted to confirm the results in practice since the composition had more bulk and different viscosity than the comparative composition.

[0080] The formulation with 1 % hydroxypropyl starch phosphate performed at the same result of speed and machine efficiency as the formulation without the hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. The formula filling worked using existing pump parameters. There was no phase separation during any of the steps (pumping / filling spout), good product flow from the filling spout, no spatter or stringing of product during filling, and fill volume was as expected. Further, there were no changes in parameters recorded during the test and there was no downtime for filling weight adjustments.

[0081] These results show that even though the 1% hydroxypropyl starch phosphate had a different rheology profile it did not impact the filling process, under the same conditions as the comparative formulation.

Claims

What is claimed is:

1. A skincare composition comprising: a. an emollient; b. an occlusive; c. a humectant; d. a processed oat ingredient; and e. a rheological modifier; and f. water.

2. The skincare composition of claim 1 , wherein the composition is in the form of a cream.

3. The skincare composition of claim 1, wherein the composition has a viscosity of about 35000 CPs to about 140000 CPs.

4. The skincare composition of claim 1 , wherein the composition has a strain sweep of about yo 0.01000 to about 0.06000.

5. The skincare composition of claim 1, wherein the rheological modifier comprises hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

6. The skincare composition of claim 1 , wherein the rheological modifier is present in an amount of from about 0.25% to about 2.5% by total weight of the composition.

7. The skincare composition of claim 1, wherein the emollient is selected from the group consisting of esters; silicone-con taining compounds; plant, nut, and vegetable oils and butters; and combinations thereof.

8. The skincare composition of claim 1, wherein the emollient is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone, helianthus annus seed oil, and combinations thereof.

9. The skincare composition of claim 1, wherein the occlusive comprises petrolatum.

10. The skincare composition of claim 1, wherein the occlusive is present in an amount ranging from about 1 to about 8 wt.% by total weight of the composition.

11. The skincare composition of claim 1 , wherein the humectant comprises glycerin.

12. A method of processing the skincare composition of claim 1, the method comprising pouring the skincare composition.

13. The method of claim 11, wherein the skincare composition is poured into a jar.

14. A method of treating skin, the method comprising topically applying the composition of claim 1 to skin.

15. The method of claim 14, wherein the skin comprises skin afflicted with eczema.

16. A skincare composition comprising: a. about 2 to about 10 wt. % by total weight of the composition of an emollient is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, dimethicone, helianthus annus seed oil, and combinations thereof; b. about 1 to about 8 wt. % by total weight of the composition of an occlusive comprising petrolatum; c. about 0.5 to about 20 wt. % by total weight of the composition of a humectant comprising glycerin; d. about 0.1 to about 3 wt. % by total weight of the composition of a processed oat ingredient; and e. about 0.1 to about 3 wt. % by total weight of the composition of a rheological modifier comprising hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

17. A method of processing the skincare composition of claim 16, the method comprising pouring the skincare composition.

18. The method of claim 17, wherein the skincare composition is poured into ajar.

19. A method of treating skin, the method comprising topically applying the composition of claim 16 to skin.

20. The method of claim 19, wherein the skin comprises skin afflicted with eczema.

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