Composition comprising different extracts

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: - at least one Withania somnifera extract; - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and - at least one Lactobacillus extract. It also relates to uses and processes using this composition.

Description

[0001] TITLE: Composition comprising different extracts

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0003] - at least one Withania somnifera extract;

[0004] - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and

[0005] - at least one Lactobacillus extract.

[0006] The skin is a tissue in which cells are contiguous and firmly attached to each other. Skin tissue forms an external coating comprising sebaceous or sudoriferous glands, and hair follicles. The skin, and particularly the scalp, are continuously renewed epithelia. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process leading to the elimination of surface cells, insensibly and invisibly.

[0007] The human skin is composed of two compartments, namely a surface compartment (the epidermis) and a deep compartment (the dermis).

[0008] The epidermis is conventionally divided into a base layer of keratinocytes forming a germinative layer of the epidermis, a layer called the spinous layer composed of several layers of polyhedric cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three layers called the stratum granulosum composed of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the keratohyalin grains and finally, a set of upper layers called corneal layers (or stratum corneum), composed of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.

[0009] Corneocytes are anucleate cells composed principally of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a corneal envelope. There is permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells in the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.

[0010] However, an imbalance between the production of cells in the base layer and the desquamation rate can lead to the formation of scales on the skin surface. Similarly, for various reasons, a deficit of terminal differentiation of cells in the stratum corneum can lead to the formation of large, thick clumps of cells, visible to the naked eye and called "dander", or in other situations, to thinning of the stratum corneum. This can give rise to fragility of the barrier properties of the epidermis, chronic dehydration of the stratum corneum and / or a loss of mechanical elasticity or firmness of the skin.

[0011] Among examples of factors conducive to this reduction in the surface quality of the skin, mention may be made of stress, the winter period, excess sebum, or a lack of hydration.

[0012] Thus, fragility of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external attacks such as irritants (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducing agents, concentrated solvents, noxious gases or fumes), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotic imbalances (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal attacks of the psychological stress type.

[0013] Hydrating agents conventionally used such as humectants, hydrating polymers or fatty bodies such as petroleum jelly, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin. These active agents can increase the mechanical suppleness of the stratum corneum, increase its state of hydration and / or improve the microrelief of the skin by the formation of a surface film on the skin. In general, these effects are not remanent in time and only last for a few hours. Furthermore, after the skin has been cleaned, these active agents are eliminated and the effect of increased mechanical suppleness of the skin, improved skin texture or optical properties of the skin disappear.

[0014] Moreover, during aging, the epidermis undergoes numerous modifications which result with age in an alteration of the microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, and a reduction in skin firmness.

[0015] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., the design and development of which account for environmental concerns, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0016] It has therefore become essential to provide more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients thus making it possible to address these environmental concerns.

[0017] There is therefore a need for active agents allowing the skin to maintain its barrier function role. There is furthermore a need for active agents enhancing the surface condition of the skin, which furthermore enhance firmness properties.

[0018] Maintaining or restoring a cornified envelope having satisfactory maturation is essential for preserving a good quality barrier function providing protection against external attacks and long-term hydration of the skin, in particular of the epidermis.

[0019] Moreover, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint in particular by promoting the use of raw materials that are renewable and / or have a good wilderness quality index and / or are of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0020] The present invention helps meet these needs.

[0021] The invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0022] - at least one Withania somnifera extract;

[0023] - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and

[0024] - at least one Lactobacillus extract.

[0025] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C- glycoside.

[0026] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0027] The invention also relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:

[0028] - at least one Withania somnifera extract;

[0029] - at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract;

[0030] - at least one Lactobacillus extract; and

[0031] - at least one C-glycoside, in particular of formula (I), and / or ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0032] The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing the barrier function and / or enhancing skin hydration. Typically, by reinforcing the barrier function, the composition also enhances skin quality and / or brightness of the complexion.

[0033] The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing skin firmness.

[0034] The term "skin" means all the skin of the body, and preferably the skin of the face, neckline, neck, arms and forearms, or even more preferably, the skin of the face (in particular the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin), neckline and neck.

[0035] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratin materials of at least one composition according to the invention. More particularly, the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process as defined above for enhancing and / or reinforcing the skin barrier function, in particular to help maintain a skin with a good quality barrier function.

[0036] Wlthanla somnifera extract

[0037] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one Withania somnifera extract. The Withania somnifera Dunal. species was described by the Swedish naturalist Carl von Linne, then reclassified in 1852 by the French botanist Michel Felix Dunal. Its area of distribution extends from the Mediterranean rim to China, via Africa, Australia, the Middle East, India, and Sri Lanka.

[0038] Cultivated extensively on Indian territory, the species includes different cultivars and varieties selected and produced in different countries, such as South Africa, or the United States.

[0039] Belonging to the Solanaceae family, Withania somnifera is a small-sized shrub, with a height not generally exceeding 170 cm. The roots are thick and fleshy with a light brown bark; the stem is ligneous at the base, and extensively branched. Its leaves are oval, subacute and hispid on their lower surface. The self-fertile flowers form groups of 3 to 6 in small axillary glomerules and 20 25 7 their calices, accrescent after blooming, persist around the fruit in the form of lobes. The fruit is a small bright red pisiform berry.

[0040] Withania somnifera is considered as an adaptogenic plant, i.e., as a plant that increases the body's ability to adapt to different types of stress.

[0041] Used in traditional African medicine, Withania somnifera has numerous uses. From Cape Verde to Madagascar, via Somalia or Ethiopia, the roots are used for different purposes. In Indian Ayurvedic medicine, the alcoholic root extract known as "Ashwagandha" has been used for centuries as an ingredient in remedies which enhance physical and mental wellbeing and increase the body's longevity and vitality.

[0042] Beyond traditional medicine, the physicochemical analyses of Withania somnifera have revealed the presence of a very large number of bioactive compounds known as withanolides.

[0043] According to the invention, all or part of the Withania somnifera plant may be used as an extract. In practice, the part of the plant used as an extract is chosen in the group comprising the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem.

[0044] Particularly preferably, the part of the plant used is the root. It may consist of fresh, frozen, dried, whole, chopped and / or ground root. Advantageously, it consists of dried and ground root.

[0045] The Withania somnifera extract may in particular be obtained with an extraction process comprising a step of solid / liquid extraction of at least a part of the plant, followed by a second step of solid / liquid separation and finally a third step of recovering the liquid phase, the solvent used by this process is a mixture of fructose, glycerin and optionally water.

[0046] The solvent may contain water, or be devoid of water. The presence of water in the solvent has however the advantage of fluidifying the solvent, and thus facilitating extraction.

[0047] Advantageously, the solvent consists of a mixture of fructose, glycerin and water. Plant extracts being frequently intended to be formulated in cosmetic compositions, it is important to avoid extraction solvents comprising salts or acids, at least traces of which will necessarily be found in the extract. Indeed, it is well known that the formulation, as gel or as emulsion, of ingredients based on salts above a dose of 0.1% is particularly complex. Furthermore, acids, by lowering the pH of the extracts obtained, have the effect of rendering the formulation as gel or as emulsion difficult. In particular, cosmetic products intended for skin application must have an adapted pH, preferably similar to that of the skin (around pH 6.5), or neutral. Under these conditions, the use of solvents containing acids hence requires the addition of excipients, in particular pH regulators.

[0048] Furthermore, when the components of this solvent are present in certain molar ratios, the solvent has the properties of a eutectic solvent or NaDES. According to the invention, "eutectic solvent" or "Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent (NaDES)" means a mixture of compounds of natural origin capable of being used as a solvent and having a superstructure based on hydrogen interactions. Briefly, it is possible to determine that a given mixture actually has a NaDES superstructure by two-dimensional NMR spectroscopy, in particular via the NOESY (for Nuclear Overhauser Effect SpectroscopY) sequence. The presence of correlation spots (non-diagonal peaks) expresses a certain spatial proximity between the spins considered, and makes it possible to detect the NaDES superstructure. This superstructure as well as the methods for detecting it are well known to a person skilled in the art, and were accurately described in Dai et al., 2013 (Analytica Chimica Acta, vol. 766 p. 61 -68), to which a person skilled in the art may refer.

[0049] The solvent is in particular liquid at ambient temperature, which facilitates the use of the process resulting in the extract according to the invention.

[0050] In a particular embodiment, the solvent consists of a mixture of fructose, glycerin and water in molar proportions preferably of approximately 1 :1 :5.

[0051] In practice, the solvent used may be produced by mixing fructose and glycerin, or fructose, glycerin and water, in a stirred reactor, until a colorless clear mixture is obtained. This mixing may be carried out at a temperature between 2°C and 100°C and for 30 minutes to 6 hours, preferably 40°C to 70°C for 1 hour to 2 hours.

[0052] The extract is capable of being obtained with a process using a solid / liquid extraction step. Particularly, it consists of a Withania somnifera root extract, advantageously dried and ground.

[0053] The solid / liquid extraction may be performed using different techniques well known to a person skilled in the art, such as maceration, re- maceration, digestion, dynamic maceration, decoction, fluidized-bed extraction, microwave-assisted extraction, ultrasound-assisted extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, re-percolation, leaching, low-pressure extraction, diacolation.

[0054] In practice, the plant / solvent mass ratio applied for the extraction step is between 1 :99 and 50:50. The extraction step is performed preferably at a temperature between 2°C and 100°C, more preferably between 20°C and 80°C. The extraction step may be maintained for a few minutes to several days.

[0055] In order to optimize the extraction of the active compounds while protecting these compounds from oxidation by the oxygen in air, the solid / liquid extraction step is advantageously carried out under stirring and / or in a nitrogen atmosphere.

[0056] The solid / liquid extraction step is followed by a solid / liquid separation step, the aim being to recover the liquid phase, also known as solid / liquid separation filtrate, containing the active substance. This separation may be performed using any technique known in the art, in particular draining, pressing, spin-drying, centrifugation or filtration. Optionally, the solid / liquid separation step may also be followed by a step of fractionation of the raw extract, which makes it possible to obtain a fraction enriched with one or more families of molecules extracted from the plant. In practice, the fractional step may be performed using techniques known in the art, in particular low-pressure chromatography or tangential membrane filtration.

[0057] Optionally, the liquid / solid separation step or the fractionation step may be followed by a step of concentrating the raw extract or the fraction, which makes it possible to obtain a concentrate, in liquid or semi-solid form according to the concentration factor. In practice, the concentration step may be performed by low-pressure evaporation or reverse osmosis. Preferably, the solid / liquid separation filtrate or the concentrate furthermore undergo one or more clarification steps. To carry out this clarification step, any type of filtration known in the field in question may be used.

[0058] Finally, with a view to packaging, the process for obtaining the extract according to the invention may comprise a sterilization step by sterilizing filtration or pasteurization for example. Sterilizing filtration is conventionally carried out by filtering the product through a filter comprising pores of a diameter of approximately 0.22 pm. Preferably, the sterilizing filtration step is the final step of the process. Furthermore, a microbiological preservative may be added to the extract prior to the sterilization step, preferably a mixture of citric acid and potassium sorbate.

[0059] Preferably, the Withania somnifera extract according to the invention is a Withania somnifera root extract. It is in particular marketed by Gattefosse under the name "EnergiNius", and is in the form of a mixture of Withania somnifera extract at 7% by weight with respect to the total weight of the mixture, 46.7% by weight of fructose, 23% by weight of glycerin, 23% by weight of water, 0.2% by weight of potassium sorbate 0.2% and 0.1 % by weight of citric acid.

[0060] Preferably, the Withania somnifera extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001 % and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01 % and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight.

[0061] Terminalia ferdinandiana extract

[0062] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract.

[0063] Terminalia ferdinandiana, also known as Kakadu plum, gubinge, murunga or billygoat plum, is a flowering plant from the Combretaceae family, native to Australia where it is widespread in woods. Its fruit has the highest vitamin C content (fifty times greater than that of an orange) of all fruit. It is also very rich in phenolic acid (antioxidants).

[0064] It is a slender, small to medium-sized tree growing up to 14 m in height, with cream, green, gray, orange, yellow mottled flaky bark and opposite simple gray-green lanceolate leaves. The flowers are small, creamy white, perfumed and located at the leaf axils toward the end of the branches. Flowering takes place from September to December (Southern hemisphere spring and summer).

[0065] The fruit is yellow-green, about 2 centimeters long and 1 centimeter in diameter, almondsized with a short beak at the time, and contains one large seed. It ripens from March onward.

[0066] According to the invention, all or part of the Terminalia ferdinandiana plant may be used as an extract. In practice, the part of the plant used as an extract is chosen in the group comprising the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem.

[0067] Particularly preferably, the part of the plant used is the fruit. It may consist fresh, frozen, dried, whole, chopped and / or ground fruit. Preferably, the fruit is whole (i.e., with seeds).

[0068] The Terminalia ferdinandiana extract may in particular be obtained with a process for cold extraction of at least a part of the plant, in particular under pressure. Then the process may comprise a sterilization step, for example by sterilizing filtration. Finally, the extract obtained may be mixed with a solvent. The solvent is preferably a glycol such as glycerin, propylene glycol or pentylene glycol. Preferably, the solvent is pentylene glycol.

[0069] Preferably, the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract according to the invention is a Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract. It is in particular marketed by Biocosmethic under the name "Kalmethic", and is in the form of a mixture at 97% by weight of Terminalia ferdinandiana fruit extract with respect to the total weight of the mixture and 3% pentylene glycol.

[0070] Preferably, the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.01% and 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.02% and 1 % by weight, preferably between 0.03% and 1 % by weight.

[0071] Lactobacillus extract

[0072] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one Lactobacillus extract.

[0073] Preferably, the Lactobacillus extract is an inactivated Lactobacillus extract. Preferably, the Lactobacillus extract is a Lactobacillus plantarum (L. Plantarum) extract. Preferably, the Lactobacillus extract is an L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract. This extract is in particular marketed by Probi AB.

[0074] L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) is a bacterial strain of lactic acid selected based on its high tannase activity. This product is used as a probiotic.

[0075] Preferably, the Lactobacillus is formulated with a prebiotic, preferably a maltodextrin.

[0076] Preferably, the Lactobacillus extract is obtained with the following steps: fermentation of L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313); then centrifugation and recovery of the precipitate; passage of the precipitate in a granulator then addition of a cryoprotectant and freeze- drying; mixing with a maltodextrin and water; pasteurization; then drying to remove water and obtain a powder.

[0077] The Lactobacillus extract is in particular marketed by Symrise under the name "Symreboot L19", and is in the form of a mixture at 80% by weight of L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract with respect to the total weight of the mixture and 20% maltodextrin.

[0078] Preferably, the Lactobacillus extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001% and 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 0.8% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 0.6% by weight.

[0079] C-glycoside

[0080] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C- glycoside.

[0081] The C-glycoside (or C-glycoside derivative) according to the invention is preferably according to the following general formula (I):

[0082] [Chem 1]

[0083] X— R

[0084] C i__ / ( ..I.) wherein:

[0085] - R represents a C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, saturated linear alkyl radical, optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, where R"2 is a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical; - X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-,

[0086] CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- radical and preferably a -CH(OH)- group;

[0087] - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide including up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide optionally being substituted by an obligatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function(s), and

[0088] - the bond S-CH2-X represents a C-anomeric type bond, which may be a or p, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and the optical and geometric isomers thereof.

[0089] The C-glycosides of formula I usable for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a C1 to C6, in particular C1 to C4, preferably C1 to C2, saturated linear alkyl radical and more preferably a methyl radical.

[0090] Among the alkyl groups suitable for the implementation of the invention, mention may in particular be made of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, secbutyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl groups.

[0091] A C-glycoside derivative complying with the formula (I) may also be used, for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide having at least one obligatorily free hydroxyl function and / or optionally one or more obligatorily protected amine functions, X and R retaining moreover all of the definitions previously given.

[0092] Advantageously, a monosaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from D- glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, N-acetyl- D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D- glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose.

[0093] More particularly, a polysaccharide according to the invention containing up to 6 sugar units may be chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a uronic acid chosen from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine chosen from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N- acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose which can advantageously be chosen from xylobiose, methyl-p-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose which is composed of two xylose molecules bonded by a 1 -4 bond.

[0094] More particularly, S may represent a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, L- fucose, D-galactose, D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.

[0095] Preferably, a C-glycoside derivative complying with formula (I) is used for which:

[0096] - R represents a C1 to C4, in particular C1 to C2, non-substituted linear alkyl radical, in particular methyl;

[0097] - S represents a monosaccharide as described above, preferably D-glucose, D- xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;

[0098] - X represents a radical selected from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, and preferentially a -CH(OH)- group.

[0099] The salts acceptable for non-therapeutic use of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention can be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acids, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid, boric acid. Mention may also be made of organic acids salts, which may include one or several carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid group(s). They may consist of linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or indeed aromatic acids. These acids may further include one or more heteroatoms selected from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may particularly be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid, and tartaric acid.

[0100] When the compound of formula (I) includes an acid group, the neutralization of the acid group(s) may be performed by a mineral base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca(OH)2, NH4OH, Mg(OH)2 or Zn(OH)2; or by an organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine may include one or nitrogen and / or oxygen atoms and can therefore include for example one or more alcohol functions; mention may in particular be made of amino-2-methyl-2-propanol, triethanolamine, dimethylamino-2-propanol, 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl)-l ,3- propanediol. Mention may furthermore be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino)propylamine.

[0101] The acceptable solvates for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates such as those formed during the final preparation step of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of solvates due to the presence of water or linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol.

[0102] Among the C-glycoside derivatives according to formula (I), used according to the invention, particular consideration is made of:

[0103] 1 . C-p-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0104] 2. C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;

[0105] 3. 1 -[2-(3-hydroxy-propylamino)-propyl]- C-p-D-xylopyranose;

[0106] 4. 1 -[2-(3-hydroxy-propylamino)-propyl]-C-a-D-xylopyranose;

[0107] 5. C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0108] 6. C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0109] 7. C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane;

[0110] 8. C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-amino-propane;

[0111] 9. C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0112] 10. C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0113] 1 1 . 3-methyl-4-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0114] 12. 3-methyl-4-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0115] 13. 6-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0116] 14. 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0117] 15. 6-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0118] 16. 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0119] 17. 6-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0120] 18. 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0121] 19. 6-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0122] 20. 6-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0123] 21 . 1 -(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0124] 22. 1 -(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0125] 23. 5-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-4-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0126] 24. 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-4-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0127] 25. 5-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside )-4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0128] 26. 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside )-4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0129] 27. 5-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0130] 28. 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0131] 29. 5-(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-4-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;

[0132] 30. 5-(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)-4-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;

[0133] 31. 1 -(C-p-D-xylopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol; 32. 1 -(C-a-D-xylopyranoside)- pentane-2,5-diol;

[0134] 33. 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one;

[0135] 34. 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one;

[0136] 35. 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one;

[0137] 36. 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one;

[0138] 37. 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0139] 38. 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0140] 39. 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0141] 40. 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0142] 41 . 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane;

[0143] 42. 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane;

[0144] 43. 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane;

[0145] 44. 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-amino-propane;

[0146] 45. 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0147] 46. 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0148] 47. 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0149] 48. 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0150] 49. 3-methyl-4-(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0151] 50. 3-methyl-4-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0152] 51. 3-methyl-4-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0153] 52. 3-methyl-4-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0154] 53. 6-(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0155] 54. 6-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0156] 55. 6-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0157] 56. 6-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0158] 57. 6-(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0159] 58. 6-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0160] 59. 6-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0161] 60. 6-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0162] 61. 6-(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0163] 62. 6-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0164] 63. 6-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0165] 64. 6-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0166] 65. 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0167] 66. 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol; 67. l-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)- hexane-2,6-diol;

[0168] 68. 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0169] 69. 5-(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-4-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0170] 70. 5-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-4-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0171] 71 . 5-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol)-4-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0172] 72. 5-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-hexane-2,6-diol)-4-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0173] 73. 5-(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0174] 74. 5-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0175] 75. 5-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0176] 76. 5-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-4-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0177] 77. 5-(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0178] 78. 5-(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoic acid

[0179] 79. 5-(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0180] 80. 5-(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-4-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0181] 81 . 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol;

[0182] 82. 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol;

[0183] 83. 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol;

[0184] 84. 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-pentane-2,5-diol;

[0185] 85. 1 -(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0186] 86. 1 -(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0187] 87. 1 -(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0188] 88. 1 -(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0189] 89. 1 -(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0190] 90. 1 -(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0191] 91. 3-methyl-4-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0192] 92. 3-methyl-4-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0193] 93. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0194] 94. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0195] 95. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0196] 96. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0197] 97. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0198] 98. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0199] 99. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0200] 100. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0201] 101. 1 -(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol; 102. l -(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)- hexane-2,6-diol;

[0202] 103. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0203] 104. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0204] 105. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0205] 106. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0206] 107. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0207] 108. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0208] 109. 6-(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;

[0209] 1 10. 6-(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;

[0210] 1 11. 1 -(C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol;

[0211] 1 12. 1 -(C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol;

[0212] 1 13. 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0213] 1 14. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;

[0214] 1 15. 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0215] 1 16. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0216] 1 17. 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0217] 1 18. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0218] 1 19. 3-methyl-4-(P-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0219] 120. 3-methyl-4-(a-D-galactopyranosyl)-butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0220] 121. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0221] 122. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0222] 123. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0223] 124. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0224] 125. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0225] 126. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0226] 127. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0227] 128. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0228] 129. 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0229] 130. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0230] 131. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0231] 132. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0232] 133. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0233] 134. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0234] 135. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0235] 136. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoic acid; 137. 6-(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-5- phenylamino-pentanoic acid;

[0236] 138. 6-(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;

[0237] 139. 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-pentane-2,6-diol;

[0238] 140. 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-pentane-2,6-diol;

[0239] 141 . 1-(C-p-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one;

[0240] 142. 1 -(C-a-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one;

[0241] 143. 1 -(C-p-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one;

[0242] 144. 1 -(C-a-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one;

[0243] 145. 3'-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

[0244] 146. 3'-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;

[0245] 147. 1 -(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;

[0246] 148. 1 -(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;

[0247] 149. 1 -(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0248] 150. 1 -(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-phenylamino-propane;

[0249] 151 . 3-methyl-4-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)- butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0250] 152. 3-methyl-4-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)- butyric acid ethyl ester;

[0251] 153. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0252] 154. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-hexanoic acid;

[0253] 155. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0254] 156. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-hexanoic acid;

[0255] 157. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0256] 158. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-hexanoic acid;

[0257] 159. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0258] 160. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-hexanoic acid;

[0259] 161. 1 -(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0260] 162. 1 -(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-hexane-2,6-diol;

[0261] 163. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0262] 164. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-keto-pentanoic acid;

[0263] 165. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0264] 166. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-hydroxy-pentanoic acid;

[0265] 167. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0266] 168. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-amino-pentanoic acid;

[0267] 169. 6-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid; 170. 6-(acetamido-C-a-D- glucopyranosyl)-5-phenylamino-pentanoic acid;

[0268] 171 . 1-(acetamido-C-p-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol;

[0269] 172. 1 -(acetamido-C-a-D-glucopyranosyl)-pentane-2,5-diol.

[0270] By way of illustration and not limitation of the C-glycoside derivatives more specifically suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of the following compounds:

[0271] - C-p-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0272] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0273] - C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,

[0274] - C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,

[0275] - 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

[0276] - 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

[0277] - 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

[0278] - 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,

[0279] - 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

[0280] - 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

[0281] - 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

[0282] - 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,

[0283] - 1 -(C-p-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,

[0284] - 1 -(C-a-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,

[0285] - 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,

[0286] - 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane

[0287] - 1 -(C-p-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,

[0288] - 1 -(C-a-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one

[0289] - 1 -(C-p-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,

[0290] - 1 -(C-a-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,

[0291] - C-p-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,

[0292] - C-a-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one

[0293] - C-p-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,

[0294] - C-a-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, isomers thereof or mixtures thereof. Preferably, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxy-propane or

[0295] C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and more preferably C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, is used.

[0296] Preferably, a C-glycoside of formula (I) suitable for the invention may be advantageously C- beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, of which the INCI name is HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL. This active agent may be marketed in the form of mixture comprising for example 30% by weight of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol active substance with respect to the total weight of mixture in 60% by weight of water and 40% propylene glycol.

[0297] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C-glycoside derivative at a content from 1% to 21 % by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 9% by weight of active substance, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight of active substance.

[0298] Ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof

[0299] Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives.

[0300] The ascorbic acid according to the invention preferably corresponds to L-ascorbic acid, or vitamin C. It has a structure according to formula (II):

[0301] [Chem 2]

[0302] The term "ascorbic acid derivative" preferably denotes a compound chosen from 5,6-di-O- dimethylsilylascorbate (particularly sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), DL- alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphate potassium salt also known as Potassium Ascorbyl Tocopheryl Phosphate (sold by SEPPIC under the reference SEPIVITAL EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by DSM under the reference Stay-C 50), disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside. Preferably, the ascorbic acid derivative is ascorbyl glucoside.

[0303] The term "ascorbyl glucoside" denotes a condensation product of glucose, in D form, i.e., in a or p glucopyranose or a or furanose, or in L form, with ascorbic acid, preferably in L form. Preferably, the ascorbyl glucoside is L-ascorbic acid 2-O-a-D-glucopyranoside, particularly available from HAYASHIBARA.

[0304] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid, preferably L-ascorbic acid, or ascorbyl glucoside.

[0305] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 1 % to 15% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of the derivatives thereof with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of active substance, and more particularly from 1 .5% to 5% by weight of active substance.

[0306] Cosmetically acceptable medium

[0307] The composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.

[0308] "Cosmetically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin, mucosa and / or skin appendages.

[0309] The compositions according to the invention may be in any galenic forms commonly used for a topical application and in particular in the form of aqueous, hydroalcoholic solutions, of oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or O / W / O) emulsions, of aqueous gels, or of dispersions of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules may consist of ionic- and / or nonionic-type lipid vesicles (liposomes, niosomes, oleosomes). These compositions are prepared using routine methods.

[0310] The compositions according to the invention may also be in anhydrous form, such as for example in the form of an oil. "Anhydrous composition" denotes a composition containing less than 1 % by weight of water, or less than 0.5% of water, and particularly free from water, water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

[0311] Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of gel, or emulsion, powder or paste.

[0312] Furthermore, the composition according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, of an ointment, of a milk, of a lotion, of a serum, of a paste, of a foaming gel, of a treatment, of a tonic or of a foam. It could possibly be applied on the skin in the form of a spray. It may also be in solid form, and for example in stick form.

[0313] When the composition used according to the invention includes an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil. It can further contain other fats.

[0314] By way of oils suitable for use in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made for example of:

[0315] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

[0316] - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol "810", "812" and "818" by CREMER OLEO, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

[0317] - esters and synthetic esters, in particular fatty acids, such as oils having formulas RCOOR2 and ROR2 wherein R is the residue of a fatty acid including from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl-malate, triisocetyl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

[0318] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polybutene such as Parleam oil;

[0319] - fatty alcohols having 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and the mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol;

[0320] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in the document JP-A-2-295912;

[0321] - silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), optionally volatile with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at ambient temperature, particularly cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes including alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl pendant or silicon chain-end groups, groups having 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl-siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0322] - and mixtures thereof.

[0323] The term hydrocarbon oil in the list of oils cited above denotes any oil comprising mostly carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

[0324] The other fats that can be present in the oily phase are for example fatty acids including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candelilla wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1 -4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicon elastomers such as the products marketed under the trade names "KSG" by Shin-Etsu, under the trade names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by Dow Corning or under the trade names "Gransil" by Grant Industries.

[0325] These fats may be selected in varied ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the sought properties, for example consistency or texture properties.

[0326] The composition may comprise at least one emulsifier, in particular chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or in a mixture, and optionally a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (water-in-oil or oil-in-water). In general, the emulsifier and the co-emulsifier are present, in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

[0327] The composition according to the invention may also contain usual ingredients in the cosmetics sector, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, fillers, waxes, pasty fats, sun protection filters or UV filter, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, alkaline agents, acids, sequestering agents, polyols, non-ionic, anionic or cationic surfactants.

[0328] The composition according to the invention may obviously comprise other barrier effect active agents and / or other hydrating active agents different from the extracts of the invention. The quantities of these various ingredients are conventionally the quantities used in the field considered, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These ingredients, depending on their nature, may be introduced in the fatty phase in the aqueous phase and / or in lipid vesicles.

[0329] The compositions according to the invention may further comprise at least one aqueous phase. The aqueous phase contains water and optionally other organic solvents soluble or miscible in water. An aqueous phase suitable for the invention may for example comprise water chosen from among a natural spring water, for example such as La Roche-Posay water, Vittel water, or Vichy water, or a floral water.

[0330] Obviously, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional compound(s) added to the composition according to the invention and their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered, by the envisaged addition.

[0331] As stated above, the present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing the barrier function and / or enhancing skin hydration.

[0332] Typically, by reinforcing the barrier function, the composition also enhances skin quality and / or brightness of the complexion.

[0333] The present invention also relates to the use of such a composition for reinforcing skin firmness.

[0334] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratin materials of at least one composition according to the invention. More particularly, the invention relates to a cosmetic treatment process as defined above for enhancing and / or reinforcing the skin barrier function, in particular to help maintain a skin with a good quality barrier function.

[0335] The process according to the invention may comprise an application repeated for example 1 to 3 times daily for one day or several days, preferably 1 to 2 times per day, and particularly over a prolonged period of at least 4, or 4 to 15 weeks, with where applicable one or more break periods. According to an embodiment, the cosmetic treatment process according to the invention may comprise a single application. Preferably, a process according to the invention will comprise the topical application of a composition according to the invention on the skin, in particular on facial skin.

[0336] Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided.

[0337] Examples

[0338] / - Effects of a composition according to the invention on barrier function

[0339] Example 1 : Claudin 1

[0340] Claudins are major constituents of tight junction complexes which regulate permeability of epithelia.

[0341] Materials & Methods:

[0342] Keratinocytes were inoculated in 96-well plates and cultured in a culture medium for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with a test medium containing, or not (control), the test compounds, the combinations or the reference (1.5 mM CaCI2 for Claudin-1 ), and the cells were incubated for 72 hours. All experimental conditions were carried out in n = 3. At the end of incubation, the cells were rinsed with a PBS solution, fixed and permeabilized. The cells were then labeled using a specific primary antibody (Anti-claudin-1 , Santa Cruz #SC-81796). The primary antibody was then detected using a suitable fluorescent secondary antibody (GAM-Alexa488, Invitrogen #A1 1001 ) and the cellular nuclei were stained using Hoechst 33258 solution (bisbenzimide, Sigma, #B1155) in parallel. The image acquisition was carried out with a high-resolution imaging system, the INCell Analyzer™2200 automated microscope (GE Healthcare). For each well, 5 images were take (x20 lens). The labeling was quantified by measuring the fluorescence intensity of each standardized protein at the total number of nuclei identified by Hoechst 33258 staining (Numerical data integration with Developer Toolbox 1 .5, GE Healthcare software).

[0343] Results:

[0344] The trio according to the invention tested at low concentration (i.e., "Trio" of 0.017% Symreboot L19, 0.0335% Energinius and 0.0135% Kalmethic), with 0.067% ascorbyl glucoside (Vit CG) and with 0.167% hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (HT) diluted to 35%, significantly stimulated Claudin-1 expression, whereas none of these ingredients exhibited a significant effect when tested alone. Furthermore, the combination effect was clearly greater than the sum of the individual effects thus demonstrating a significantly greater effect between hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, ascorbyl glucoside and the trio.

[0345] [Table 1]

[0346] Example 2: ZO-1

[0347] Materials & Methods: CaCI2 tested at 1.5 mM significantly stimulated the expression of all the markers involved in keratinocyte differentiation (Involucrin, Loricrin, TGK and Filaggrin) and the expression of key markers involved in tight junctions (Claudin-1 and ZO-1). This prodifferentiating effect of CaCI2 was expected and validates the tests.

[0348] Results:

[0349] As shown in the tables hereinafter, the trio according to the invention stimulated ZO-1 expression, whereas this was not the case for all the compounds, even in paired combinations.

[0350] [Table 2]

[0351] [Table 3]

[0352] Therefore, there is a significant link between the tight junctions and the barrier function.

[0353] Example 3: Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) result after stripping with barrier function

[0354] Materials & Methods:

[0355] The effectiveness of a formula F according to the invention, i.e., containing the trio combination ( Terminalia ferdinandiana extract at 0.4% active substance and Lactobacillus extract at 0.1% active substance and Withania somnifera extract at 0.07% active substance), ascorbyl glucoside (2% active substance) and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol (6.3% active substance), in a medium comprising in particular water and glycerin, was demonstrated thanks to a TEWL test after stripping using: 24 women from 18 to 63 years (mean age: 47 ± 13 years):

[0356] - With a TEWL value > 6 g,m-2,h-1 on the anterior surface of the forearms before stripping,

[0357] - With a TEWL value > 20g,m-2,h-1 on the anterior surface of the forearm after stripping.

[0358] Results:

[0359] The results are in the table hereinafter.

[0360] [Table 4]

[0361] Single application on the skin of formula F according to the invention, under the experimental conditions and on the skin of the forearm, resulted in a statistically significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) approximately 6 hours later after stripping, showing a repair effect against water loss.

[0362] Formula F contains raw materials with a good wilderness quality index and / or of natural origin and particularly of plant origin.

[0363] II- Effects of a composition according to the invention on skin firmness Example 4: Sulfated GAGs

[0364] Materials & Methods:

[0365] Normal human fibroblasts were inoculated in 96-well plates and cultured for 24 hours in a culture medium. The culture medium was then replaced with a culture medium containing, or not (control), the reference (10 ng / ml TGF- ) or the test compounds or the combinations, and the cells were incubated for 72 hours. [35S]-sulfate was added to the culture medium for the last 24 hours of incubation. All experimental conditions were carried out in n = 3. At the end of incubation, the glycosaminoglycans were extracted from the cells using a chaotropic buffer. The GAGs were then purified by ion exchange chromatograph: adsorption of the anionic molecules onto Q-Sepharose beads and desorption of the weakly and moderately anionic molecules using a specific buffer. The radioactivity incorporated in the molecules bound to the substrate was then measured by liquid scintillation.

[0366] Result:

[0367] As shown in the tables hereinafter, hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol diluted to 35%, tested at 0.1 165% and 0.35%, stimulated sulfated GAG neosynthesis by human fibroblasts spectacularly. These results confirm the well-known effect of hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol on enhancing dermal GAGs.

[0368] Under the experimental conditions of this study, neither the trio according to the invention or its constituents tested alone, nor ascorbyl glucoside, nor the trio + ascorbyl glucoside combination, stimulated GAG neosynthesis by human fibroblasts. However, surprisingly, the combination of the trio with ascorbyl glucoside and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol increased GAG neosynthesis by human fibroblasts spectacularly. The results of the combination being greater than those of each active agent tested individually, or greater than the sum of the individual effects, these results clearly demonstrate a synergistic effect between the trio according to the invention, ascorbyl glucoside and hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol on GAG neosynthesis.

[0369] [Table 5]

[0370] [Table 6] The contents of the 3 extracts and HT in Tables 5 and 6 are expressed in commercial product.

[0371] Example 5: Firmness - clinical evaluation

[0372] Materials & Methods:

[0373] Formula F according to the invention of example 3 was used.

[0374] Subjects: 40 Asian women for clinical score by a dermatologist, aged from 25 to 60 years, 50% with sensitive skin (reported), showing signs of skin aging on the face and living in urban areas, with an inclusion grade > 2 and < 6 for the following parameters: Skin firmness (touch).

[0375] Application: Twice daily (morning and evening) on face, neck and upper chest.

[0376] The evaluation is carried out using:

[0377] -The clinical score: Score on 10-point scale (0: none to 9: severe) on DO, D7, D28, D56 (N=40).

[0378] -Self-assessment questionnaire on DO, D1 (after first awakening), D7, D14, D28, D56 (N=57).

[0379] -Spontaneous tolerance reports

[0380] Illustrations on DO, D28, D56 (N=40)

[0381] Results:

[0382] The effectiveness of the formula is demonstrated thanks to the clinical firmness score:

[0383] [Table 7]

[0384] Example 6: Self-assessment by consumers

[0385] Materials and Methods:

[0386] Formula F according to the invention of example 3 was used. Subjects: See the table hereinafter relating to sex and ethnicity, from 25 to 60 years, 50% with sensitive skin (reported), showing signs of skin aging on the face and living in urban areas, with an inclusion grade > 2 and < 6 for the following parameter: Skin firmness (touch). Application: Twice daily (morning and evening) on face, neck and upper chest.

[0387] Effectiveness on formula: consumer self-assessment.

[0388] Evaluation method: Self-assessment questionnaires: Five-point scale / : "Agree" and "Somewhat agree" responses as %, after 1 week, 2 weeks, 4 weeks and 8 weeks of application from respondents to the following questions: "My skin is firmer".

[0389] Results:

[0390] The results are as follows:

[0391] [Table 8]

[0392] Therefore, the consumers assessed formula F as enhancing skin firmness.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium:- at least one Withania somnifera extract;- at least one Terminalia ferdinandiana extract; and- at least one Lactobacillus extract.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the Withania somnifera extract is an extract of a part of the plant chosen in the group comprising the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem, preferably the Withania somnifera extract is a root extract, advantageously dried and ground.

3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Withania somnifera extract is obtained with an extraction process comprising a step of solid / liquid extraction of at least a part of the plant, followed by a second step of solid / liquid separation and finally a third step of recovering the liquid phase, the solvent used by this process being a mixture of fructose, glycerin and optionally water.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Withania somnifera is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001% and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 3% by weight.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is an extract of a part of the plant chosen from the root, the fruit, the flower, the seed, the leaf, the stem, preferably, the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is a fruit extract.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is obtained with a process for cold extraction of at least a part of the plant, in particular under pressure.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Terminalia ferdinandiana extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.01% and 3% by weight with respect to the total weight of thecomposition, preferably between 0.02% and 1% by weight, preferably between 0.03% and 1 % by weight.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Lactobacillus extract is a Lactobacillus plantarum (L. Plantarum)) extract, preferably the Lactobacillus extract is an L. plantarum HEAL19 (DSM 15313) extract, preferably the Lactobacillus extract is formulated with a prebiotic, preferably a maltodextrin.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the Lactobacillus extract is present in the composition according to the invention at a content between 0.001 % and 1% with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.01% and 0.8% by weight, preferably between 0.05% and 0.6% by weight.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which also comprises at least one C-glycoside according to the following general formula (I): [Chem 1]X— R __ / ( ..|.) wherein:- R represents a C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, saturated linear alkyl radical, optionally substituted by at least one radical chosen from OH, COOH or COOR"2, where R"2 is a saturated C1 -C4 alkyl radical;- X represents a radical chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH2)-, - CH(NHCH2CH2CH2OH)-, -CH(NHPh)- and -CH(CH3)- and in particular a -CO-, -CH(OH)- or -CH(NH2)- radical and preferably a -CH(OH)- group;- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide including up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and / or furanose form and of L and / or D series, said mono- or polysaccharide optionally being substituted by an obligatorily free hydroxyl group, and optionally one or more optionally protected amine function(s), and- the bond S-CH2-X represents a C-anomeric type bond, which may be a or p, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts thereof, solvates thereof such as hydrates and the optical and geometric isomers thereof.

11. Composition according to claim 10, wherein the C-glycoside is chosen from:- C-p-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,- C-a-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane- 2-one,- C-p-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,- C-a-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,- 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,- 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,- 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,- 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-propane-2-one,- 1 -(C-p-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,- 1 -(C-a-D-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,- 1 -(C-p-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,- 1 -(C-a-L-fucopyranoside)-2-hydroxy-propane,- 1 -(C-p-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,- 1 -(C-a-D-Glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,- 1 -(C-p-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane,- 1 -(C-a-D-galactopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane- 1 -(C-p-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,- 1 -(C-a-D-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one- 1 -(C-p-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,- 1 -(C-a-L-fucofuranosyl)-propane-2-one,- C-p-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,- C-a-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one- C-p-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane,- C-a-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, isomers thereof or mixtures thereof, preferably, the C-glycoside is chosen from C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, preferably the C-glycoside is C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane.

12. Composition according to claim 10 or 1 1 , wherein the C-glycoside is present in the composition at a content from 1 % to 21% by weight of active substance with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 9% by weight of active substance, preferably from 3% to 7% by weight of active substance.

13. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, which also comprises ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives, preferably the ascorbic acid derivative is chosen from 5,6-di-O-dimethylsilylascorbate, DL-alpha-tocopheryl-DL-ascorbyl-phosphatepotassium salt, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, disodium ascorbyl sulfate, sulfinyl-L-ascorbic acid, glucopyranosyl-L-ascorbic acid and ascorbyl glucoside.

14. Composition according to claim 13, wherein ascorbic acid or one of its derivatives is present in the composition at a content ranging from 1% to 15% by weight of ascorbic acid or one of the derivatives thereof with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of active substance, and more particularly from 1 .5% to 5% by weight of active substance.

15. Use of such a composition according to one of the preceding claims for reinforcing the barrier function and / or enhancing skin hydration.

16. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 14 for reinforcing skin firmness.

17. Non-therapeutic cosmetic process for the care of keratin materials, such as the skin, comprising the topical application on these keratin materials of at least one composition according to one of claims 1 to 14.

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