Cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Dendrobium officinale to maintain and / or increase skin thickness

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Dendrobium officinale to maintain and / or increase skin thickness. The present invention relates to the new cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Dendrobium officinale and / or a composition comprising it to maintain and / or increase skin thickness, preferably of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the epidermis.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic or dermatological use of a Dendrobium officinale extract to maintain and / or increase skin thickness. Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the cosmetic or dermatological use of an extract of Dendrobium officinale and / or a composition comprising it to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin, preferably of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the epidermis. Previous technique

[0002] The plant Dendrobium officinale, as described by Kimura and Migo, has long been used in traditional Chinese medicine. The polysaccharides of Dendrobium officinale, mainly composed of glucose and mannose, exhibit a variety of biological effects: immunomodulatory, anti-tumor, gastrointestinal protective, intestinal microbiota regulator, hypoglycemic, anti-inflammatory, vasodilatory, lung function improver, anti-osteoporotic and neuroprotective effects. (Tang H., Dendrobium officinale Kimura et Migo: A Review on Its Ethnopharmacology, Phytochemistry, Pharmacology, and Industrialization. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine. (2017) Article ID 7436259, p.19; Chen Wen Hua et al. Isolation, structural properties, bioactivities of polysaccharides from Dendrobium officinale Kimura et Migo: A review. Int J Biol Macromolecules 184 (2001) 1000-1013).

[0003] Patent application CN 110755345 describes the use of a prebiotic composition comprising Dendrobium officinale extract, ribose and [3-glucan as active agents, to repair the skin barrier and moisturize the skin.

[0004] In a particularly surprising way, the Applicant discovered that an extract of Dendrobium officinale has the property of maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the epidermis preferentially maintaining and / or increasing the proliferation of keratinocytes of the skin, preferentially of the epidermis.

[0005] The extract according to the invention also has the advantage of being an ingredient that is easy to formulate and can be easily manufactured on an industrial scale. It is a topically acceptable active ingredient for the skin and does not present a risk of allergy.

[0006] Thus, to the Applicant's knowledge, no document describes the topical cosmetic and / or dermatological use of a Dendrobium extract officinal as an active ingredient to maintain and / or increase skin thickness, preferably of the epidermis. Description of the invention

[0007] The present invention has as its primary object the cosmetic use, in particular by topical application, of an extract of Dendrobium officinale to maintain and / or increase the thickness of healthy skin, preferably of the healthy epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the healthy epidermis.

[0008] Advantageously, the extract of Dendrobium officinale is used topically to maintain and / or increase the proliferation of skin keratinocytes, preferentially of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer.

[0009] The term "cosmetic use" means a non-therapeutic use, that is to say, one which is not intended for therapeutic use, and which is applied to a part of the body said to be healthy, in particular to an area of ​​skin said to be healthy.

[0010] For the purposes of the present invention, "topical route" means the direct local application and / or vaporization of the extract of Dendrobium officinale or of the composition comprising it according to the invention on the surface of the skin area to be treated.

[0011] According to the invention, an effective amount of Dendrobium officinale extract is used to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin, preferably of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the epidermis and / or an effective amount to maintain and / or increase the proliferation of skin keratinocytes, preferably of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer of the epidermis.

[0012] The Dendrobium officinale extract may be any part of the plant, such as the roots and / or aerial parts including the leaves, flowers, and / or stem. Advantageously, the Dendrobium officinale extract is an extract of the aerial parts, preferably an extract of the stem, and even more preferably contains only the stem. Advantageously, the extract according to the invention does not contain the flowers and / or leaves.

[0013] According to one embodiment, the extract of Dendrobium officinale is a polysaccharide extract.

[0014] The term “polysaccharide extract” means an extract according to the present invention comprising polysaccharides with a molecular weight greater than 600kDa, preferably greater than 700kDa and / or comprising more than 20% (w / w), advantageously more than 30% of polysaccharides (w / w).

[0015] According to one embodiment, the extract according to the present invention comprises more than 60% (w / w), advantageously more than 80% carbohydrates (w / w).

[0016] The extract according to the present invention is obtained by any extraction method known to those skilled in the art, chosen from among hot decoction, maceration, water extraction under subcritical conditions, or grinding such as ultrasonic grinding or grinding with a blender. Advantageously, the extract will be obtained by maceration and more advantageously by maceration in water.

[0017] According to a preferred embodiment, the extract is obtained by maceration and centrifugation.

[0018] Extraction under "subcritical conditions" means extraction in the presence of water, under temperature conditions above 100°C and pressure less than or equal to 22.1 MPa (221 bars), such that the water remains in the liquid state but has a viscosity and surface tension lower than that of water at room temperature, increasing its dielectric constant.

[0019] Thus, the extraction pressure will be between 10 MPa (100 bars) and 25 MPa (250 bars).

[0020] The extraction may be carried out from dry or fresh plant material, advantageously fresh, in a quantity of 1% to 30% by weight, advantageously from 5% to 25%, very advantageously from 10% to 20%, by weight of plant material in relation to the total weight of the plant material and the extraction solvent.

[0021] The extraction can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 4°C to 300°C, including ambient temperature, i.e. a temperature of about 20°C. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the extraction will be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 90°C.

[0022] The extraction can be conducted for a period of a few seconds to 24 hours, preferably from 1 minute to 12 hours, even more preferably for a period of 5 minutes to 5 hours, and even more advantageously for a period of 15 minutes to 2 hours.

[0023] The solvent may be chosen from water, or a mixture of solvents, preferably a protic polar solvent. It is advantageously chosen from water, an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol, a water / alcohol, water / glycol or water / polyol mixture (such as water mixed with ethanol, glycerol and / or butylene glycol and / or other glycols such as xylitol and / or propanediol, etc.) from 99 / 1 to 1 / 99 (w / w), advantageously water as the sole solvent.

[0024] In particular, the extract is obtained by aqueous extraction. For the purposes of the present invention, "extract obtained by aqueous extraction" means any extract obtained by extraction with an aqueous solution containing more than 60% by weight, advantageously at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, more particularly at least 90% by weight, particularly at least 95% by weight, of water relative to the total weight of the aqueous solution, even more advantageously not containing glycol and / or polyol and in particular not containing alcohol, more specifically containing only water.

[0025] According to a preferred method, the extract is obtained by maceration in water as the sole solvent and by centrifugation, at a temperature above 25 °C.

[0026] In particular, the Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention is an aqueous extract obtained in water or a mixture of water with a solvent selected from the group consisting of an alcohol, a glycol, a polyol and their mixture, advantageously obtained by extraction in water as the sole solvent.

[0027] In a preferred method, the extract of Dendrobium officinale is used alone, in particular as an active ingredient. Said extract according to the invention may be in dry form, i.e., in powder form.

[0028] According to another preferred method, the Dendrobium officinale extract is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, i.e. in powder form, advantageously in association with maltodextrin, preferably with an extract content of 1% to 99% (w / w), more preferably with an extract content of 5% to 60% (w / w), advantageously of 20% to 50% (w / w) and even more advantageously of 30% to 50% (w / w) of extract relative to the total weight of powder, which includes both the extract and the maltodextrin.

[0029] According to a preferred alternative embodiment, the Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention may be in liquid form and / or diluted in a solvent, preferably with an extract content of 1% to 99% (w / w), more preferably with an extract content of 5% to 60% (w / w), advantageously with an extract content of 20% to 50% (w / w), and even more advantageously with an extract content of 30% to 50% (w / w) relative to the total weight of the liquid comprising the extract and the solvent. Preferably, this solvent contains less than 20% (w / w) water, more preferably less than 5% (w / w) water, and even more preferably the solvent contains no water. Most preferably, this solvent is water-soluble.

[0030] The term "maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the skin, in particular the epidermis" means preventing the decrease and / or increasing the thickness of the skin, preferably the epidermis, preferably by an increase of at least 50%, preferably by at least 80%, of at least one of the following properties: - to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin, preferably the epidermis, more preferably at least one layer of the epidermis, - to maintain and / or increase the proliferation of skin keratinocytes, preferably in the epidermis, more preferably in the basal layer, measured on skin treated with the extract according to the invention, compared to skin not treated with said extract. From a pharmacological point of view, said properties allow the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies such as senile xerosis, diabetes, tetraplegia, Peeling Skin Syndrome, psoriasis and / or atopic dermatitis related to the reduction of skin thickness, preferentially of pathological skin.

[0031] The term "healthy skin" or "healthy tissue" or "healthy epidermis" refers to an area of ​​skin, tissue, or epidermis to which the extract or composition according to the invention comprising said extract is applied, which is described as "non-pathological" by a dermatologist, i.e., free from infection, scarring, disease, or skin condition such as candidiasis, impetigo, psoriasis, eczema, acne, or dermatitis, or from wounds or injuries. Advantageously, the extract and optionally the cosmetic composition comprising said extract according to the invention are used topically for the treatment of thin and / or thinned healthy skin and / or sensitive and / or sensitized healthy skin and / or healthy skin.

[0032] The term "thin and / or thin skin" refers to skin that is fragile or has become fragile due to age, such as infant skin or mature skin, i.e., the skin of people over 40 years of age, or due to the nature of the skin, for example, the skin of the décolleté, armpits, elbow and / or knee creases, or due to the area, particularly skin on body areas exposed to friction and / or aggression, especially mechanical, for example, the skin of the face and / or hands. Thin and / or thin skin includes skin prone to atopic dermatitis. Thin and / or thin skin is not intended for the prevention and / or treatment of any pathology.

[0033] The term “sensitive and / or sensitized skin” means skin which, by nature or temporarily, tolerates very little external aggressive agents, in particular environmental agents such as pollutants, chemical agents (heavy metals, detergents, compounds contained in cosmetic treatments such as perfumes, preservatives, alcohols, pH, AHAs or in dermatological treatments such as vitamin A, acids), allergens, tobacco, climatic factors (wind, cold, heat), UV, hard water and / or non-pathological physiological variations including stress, changes in diet, hormones (during puberty, pregnancy, menopause and / or andropause), perspiration and / or repeated mechanical aggressions such as hair removal, shaving, washing, friction (repeated hand washing).Sensitive and / or sensitized skin is not pathological, unlike allergic skin. However, it can react to aggressive agents and / or conditions, becoming thinner, particularly in the epidermis. Therefore, the "sensitive skin" characteristic can be assessed by the individual themselves through subjective skin sensations or by a dermatologist through objective skin reactions. Sensitive and / or sensitized skin does not constitute the prevention or treatment of a pathology.

[0034] The term “skin” means any part of the body and / or face, including the scalp.

[0035] The term "epidermis" means one or more of the five layers that constitute the epidermis: the basal layer, the spinous layer, the granular layer, the lucid layer, and the stratum corneum. Advantageously, the term "epidermis" refers to all five layers. Advantageously, the term "epidermis" refers only to the living layers of the epidermis, that is, at least one layer of the epidermis selected from the basal layer, the spinous layer, and / or the granular layer.

[0036] The terms "basal layer, spinous layer, and granular layer of the epidermis" refer to the three successive layers of the epidermis starting from the basal lamina, which separates the dermis from the epidermis. In a preferred embodiment, the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the epidermis, is not affected by the extract according to the present invention. In a more preferred embodiment, the stratum corneum and the stratum lucidum, which are the outermost layers of the epidermis, are not affected by the extract according to the present invention. Preferably, the basal layer, spinous layer, and / or granular layer are affected by the extract according to the present invention.

[0037] The term "maintaining and / or increasing the proliferation of skin keratinocytes" means preventing the decrease and / or increasing the number of skin keratinocytes, preferably in the epidermis, more preferably in the basal layer. This refers to an increase of at least 20%, preferably 40%, in at least one of the cosmetic properties of interest or at least one of the pharmacological properties of interest, of skin treated with the extract according to the invention, compared to the cosmetic or pharmacological properties described in the invention of skin, measured in the absence of said extract. These cosmetic properties are the maintenance and / or increase of skin thickness, preferably in the epidermis, more preferably in at least one layer of the epidermis, and / or maintaining and / or increasing the proliferation of skin keratinocytes, preferably in the epidermis, more preferably in the basal layer of the epidermis.These pharmacological properties include the treatment, prevention, and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies such as senile xerosis, diabetes, tetraplegia, peeling skin syndrome, psoriasis, and / or atopic dermatitis related to the reduction in thickness and / or proliferation of keratinocytes in pathological skin. Keratinocyte proliferation in the skin can be measured by any means known to those skilled in the art, for example, by measuring the Ki-67 antigenic marker.

[0038] According to one embodiment, the use of the extract according to the present invention and / or a composition comprising it is a topical use, in particular on specific parts of the body chosen from among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolletage, stomach, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, labial mucosa, face and / or scalp, in particular shaved areas, maceration areas such as the infant's bottom, fold areas such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and / or around the lips and / or excessively cleaned areas.

[0039] According to the invention, the extract of Dendrobium officinale according to the invention can be used alone, as an active ingredient and / or in a cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological.

[0040] The term "cosmetic composition" means a non-therapeutic composition, that is to say, one which is not intended for therapeutic use and which is applied to a part of the body said to be healthy, in particular to an area of ​​the skin said to be healthy.

[0041] In an advantageous embodiment, the Dendrobium officinale extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration of 1x10 4% and 10% (w / w), preferably between 1x10 3% and 10% (w / w), advantageously between 1x10 3% and 3% (w / w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w / w), and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w / w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0042] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic care method for maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of healthy skin, more preferably of the healthy epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the healthy epidermis, characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of ​​healthy skin of an extract of Dendrobium officinale, in particular according to the invention, or of a cosmetic composition comprising it.

[0043] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic care process according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises the topical application to at least one area of ​​skin of an extract of Dendrobium officinale or of a cosmetic composition comprising it, to maintain and / or increase the proliferation of skin keratinocytes, preferably of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer of the epidermis.

[0044] Advantageously, the cosmetic care process according to the present invention is for the treatment of healthy, thin, refined, sensitive, sensitized skin.

[0045] Advantageously, the extract of Dendrobium officinale according to the invention, preferably in the form of a cosmetic composition according to the invention, is used by regular topical application and preferably at least once a day, advantageously twice a day, for at least 7 days, preferably for 14 days, more preferably for at least 21 days and advantageously for less than 28 days.

[0046] The cosmetic care process according to the invention for maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of healthy skin, preferably of the healthy epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the healthy epidermis, advantageously comprises the following steps: - The identification on the individual of an area of ​​healthy skin, for which it is desired to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the skin, preferably of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the epidermis, - The topical application on this area of ​​healthy skin, of an effective quantity of Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention, in the form of an active ingredient, used alone or in combination with maltodextrin or diluted in a solvent or of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract.

[0047] In another embodiment, the extract according to the invention can be incorporated into a cosmetic composition.

[0048] Advantageously, the extract of Dendrobium officinale or the composition comprising it according to the invention is intended to be applied topically to specific parts of the body chosen from among the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolleté, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, labial mucosa, face and / or scalp, in particular shaved areas, maceration areas such as the diaper area, fold areas such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and / or around the lips and / or excessively cleaned areas.

[0049] Advantageously, the extract and / or the composition comprising it is intended to be applied to an area of ​​healthy tissue exhibiting thinning of the skin, preferably of the epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the epidermis.

[0050] Thus, advantageously the cosmetic composition is intended for topical application on healthy skin.

[0051] Preferably, the extract of Dendrobium officinale according to the invention is particularly suitable for the formulation of a so-called neutral and gentle composition for respecting the sebaceous gland, in particular the skin including the scalp.

[0052] Alternatively, the Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention can be presented in all the galenic forms classically used for topical application.

[0053] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic care process according to the invention is such that the Dendrobium officinale extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract, at a concentration of 1x10⁴% and 10% (w / w), preferably between 1x10⁳% and 10% (w / w), advantageously between 1x10⁳% and 3% (w / w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w / w), and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w / w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

[0054] For the purposes of the present invention, a "cosmetically acceptable" excipient means a compound and / or solvent that is topically acceptable, i.e. an ingredient suitable for topical application, non-toxic, non-irritating, not inducing an allergic response, not chemically unstable, for healthy skin.

[0055] The invention further relates to an extract of Dendrobium officinale or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use by topical route for the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies such as senile xerosis, diabetes, tetraplegia, Peeling Skin Syndrome, psoriasis and / or atopic dermatitis related to the reduction of skin thickness, preferably of the pathological epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the pathological epidermis.

[0056] The invention further relates to an extract of Dendrobium officinale or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use by topical route for the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies related to sensitive, sensitized, thin, thinned skin, such as diabetes, tetraplegia, Peeling Skin Syndrome, psoriasis or atopic dermatitis.

[0057] More advantageously, the invention also relates to an extract of Dendrobium officinale or a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use by topical route for the treatment of atopic skin, reactive and / or damaged skin.

[0058] The present invention also relates to an extract of Dendrobium officinale, or a dermatological composition comprising it, for topical use in the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies such as senile xerosis, diabetes, tetraplegia, peeling Skin Syndrome, psoriasis and / or atopic dermatitis linked to the decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes of the pathological skin, preferentially of the pathological epidermis, more preferentially of the basal layer of the pathological epidermis.

[0059] In particular the extract is an extract according to the invention more particularly as described and / or defined above in the present description.

[0060] According to one embodiment, the extract according to the invention is characterized in that it is in the form of a dermatological composition comprising at least one dermatologically acceptable excipient.

[0061] According to one embodiment, the extract according to the present invention is not used in combination with ribose and beta-glucan.

[0062] According to one embodiment, the composition is characterized in that the extract of Dendrobium officinale is present in said composition at a content of between 1x10 4% and 10% (w / w), preferably between 1x10 3% and 10% (w / w), advantageously between 1x10 3% and 3% (w / w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w / w), and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w / w), relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, anti-radical agents, fibroblast growth factor (FGF) protecting agents, agents stimulating fibroblast activity and / or proliferation and / or thermal waters.

[0064] More preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain ribose and / or beta-glucan.

[0065] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from a solution, aqueous or oily, a cream or an aqueous gel or an oily gel, in particular a shower gel, a shampoo; a milk; an emulsion, a microemulsion or a nanoemulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple or silicone; a mask; a serum; a lotion; a liquid soap; a dermatological bar; an ointment; a balm; a butter; a mousse; a patch; an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of makeup powders, sticks or tablets, in particular in the form of lipstick.

[0066] It may also be a makeup product or a makeup remover.

[0067] The compositions according to the invention may contain any suitable solvent and / or any suitable vehicle and / or any suitable excipient, possibly in combination with other compounds of interest.

[0068] Therefore, for these compositions, the excipient contains, for example, at least one compound chosen from the group including preservatives, emollients, emulsifiers, surfactants, moisturizers, thickeners, conditioners, mattifying agents, stabilizers, antioxidants, texturizing agents, gloss enhancers, film-forming agents, solubilizers, pigments, colorants, perfumes and sunscreens. These excipients are preferably chosen from the group consisting of amino acids and their derivatives, polyglycerols, esters, polymers and cellulose derivatives, lanolin derivatives, phospholipids, lactoferrins, lactoperoxidases, sucrose-based stabilizers, vitamin E and its derivatives, natural and synthetic waxes, vegetable oils, triglycerides, unsaponifiables, phytosterols, vegetable esters, silicones and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates,Jojoba oil and its derivatives, lipo / water-soluble esters, betaines, aminoxides, plant extracts, sucrose esters, titanium dioxide, glycines, and parabens, and preferably from the group consisting of butylene glycol, steareth-2, steareth-21, glycol-15 stearyl ether, cetearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, butylene glycol, natural tocopherols, glycerin, dihydroxycetyl sodium phosphate, isopropyl hydroxycetyl ether, glycol stearate, triisononanoin, octyl cocoate, polyacrylamide, isoparaffin, laureth-7, a carbomer, the propylene glycol, glycerol, bisabolol, a dimethicone, sodium hydroxide, PEG 30-dipolyhydroxysterate, caprylic / capric triglycerides, cetearyl octanoate, dibutyl adipate, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, magnesium sulfate, EDTA, a cyclomethicone,Xanthan gum, citric acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, mineral waxes and oils, isostearyl isostearate, propylene glycol dipelargonate, propylene glycol isostearate, PEG-8, beeswax, hydrogenated palm kernel oil glycerides, hydrogenated palm oil glycerides, lanolin oil, sesame oil, cetyl lactate, lanolin alcohol, castor oil, titanium dioxide, lactose, sucrose, low-density polyethylene, isotonic saline solution, and mixtures thereof.

[0069] Many cosmetically active ingredients are known to those skilled in the art to improve the health and / or physical appearance of the skin (including the scalp). Those skilled in the art know how to formulate cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions to achieve the best effects. Moreover, these compounds can have a synergistic effect when combined with one another. These combinations are also covered by the present invention. The CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition (1992) describes various cosmetic and pharmaceutical ingredients commonly used in the cosmetics industry and pharmaceuticals, which are particularly suited for topical use. Examples of these classes of ingredients include, but are not limited to, the following compounds: abrasives, absorbents, compounds for aesthetic purposes such as perfumes, pigments, dyes, essential oils, astringents, etc.(e.g., clove oil, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus oil, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate), anti-acne agents, anti-flocculants, antifoaming agents, antimicrobial agents (e.g., iodopropyl butylcarbamate), antioxidants, binders, biological additives, buffering agents, swelling agents, chelating agents, additives, biocidal agents, denaturants, thickeners, and vitamins, and derivatives or equivalents thereof, film-forming materials, polymers, opacifying agents, pH adjusters, reducing agents, depigmenting or lightening agents (e.g., hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucosamine), conditioning agents (e.g., humectants).

[0070] The cosmetic composition may also include other cosmetic and / or dermatological agents having the same properties and inducing a synergistic or non-synergistic effect with the Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention, or cosmetic agents with complementary effects.

[0071] These may include, for example, anti-wrinkle ingredients, agents that stimulate the activity or proliferation of fibroblasts, agents that stimulate extracellular matrix molecules.

[0072] It may also be anti-aging active ingredients such as an extract of Nephelium lappaceum leaves marketed under the name Nephoria™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions or an extract of Cichorium intybus marketed under the name Lox-Age™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions and / or firming agents and / or moisturizing active ingredients such as an extract of Nephelium lappaceum bark marketed under the name Nephydrat™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions and / or active agents increasing the barrier effect of the epidermis such as, for example, an extract of hydrolyzed linseed marketed under the name Oligolin™ by BASF Beauty Care Solutions.

[0073] The tensor agents usable in the invention can be chosen from synthetic polymers, such as polyurethane latex or acrylic latex, polymers of natural origin, in particular polyholosides in the form of starch or in the form of carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins; plant proteins and protein hydrolysates; mixed silicates; wax microparticles; colloidal particles of inorganic filler chosen for example from silica, silica-alumina composites; as well as mixtures thereof.

[0074] Finally, these may be cosmetic ingredients such as antimicrobial agents, free radical scavengers, soothing, calming or relaxing agents, agents acting on microcirculation to improve skin radiance, particularly on the face, healing agents or slimming agents. Advantageously, the cosmetic and / or dermatological composition of the present invention also contains one or more tightening agents and / or one or more antimicrobial agents and / or one or more free radical scavengers and / or one or more soothing agents and / or one or more slimming agents and / or one or more agents active on microcirculation.

[0075] Among the antimicrobial agents associated with the Dendrobium officinale extract in a preferred embodiment of the present invention, mention may be made of 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'-trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, acid 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Antiradical agents may be vitamin C and its derivatives including ascorbyl glucoside, phenols and polyphenols, in particular tannins, ellagic acid and tannic acid; epigallocatechin and natural extracts containing it, in particular green tea extracts; anthocyanins; phenolic acids, stilbenes; actives that scavenge mono- or polycyclic aromatic compounds, tannins such as ellagic acid and indole derivatives and / or actives that scavenge heavy metals such as EDTA, antiradical actives such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate; bioflavonoids; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone.

[0077] As soothing agents included in the composition of the invention, pentacyclic triterpenes, ursolic acid and its salts, oleanolic acid and its salts, betulinic acid and its salts, salts of salicylic acid and in particular zinc salicylate, bisabolol, allantoin, omega-3 unsaturated oils, cortisone, hydrocortisone, indomethacin and beta methasone, anti-inflammatory agents, and in particular those described in application FR2847267, in particular Pueraria lobata root extract marketed under the name Inhipase™ by the applicant, Theobroma cacao extracts may be used.

[0078] The active ingredients acting on microcirculation, vasoprotectors or vasodilators, can be chosen from flavonoids, ruscogenins, nicotinates, essential oils.

[0079] Slimming actives may be chosen in particular from lipoprotein lipase inhibitors such as those described in US patent 2003086949 (Coletica) and in particular an extract of Peruvian liana (Uncaria tomentosa); draining actives, in particular hesperitine laurate (Flavagrum™), or quercetin caprylate (Flavenger™); phosphodiesterase enzyme inhibitors, adenylate cyclase activating agents, cAMP and / or actives capable of trapping spermine and / or spermidine. Examples include Coleus Forskohlii root extract, Cecropia obtusa extract, Uva lactuca extract, caffeine, forskolin, theophylline, theobromine and / or their derivatives, a hydrolyzed kappa carrageenan product called Slhnexcess™ marketed by the applicant and / or mixtures thereof.

[0080] For the purposes of the present invention, "dermatological composition" means a composition intended to treat and / or prevent skin pathologies related to the reduction in the thickness of the pathological epidermis, more preferably of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the pathological epidermis, such as, for example, senile xerosis, diabetes, tetraplegia, Peeling Skin Syndrome, psoriasis and / or atopic dermatitis.

[0081] Advantageously, the invention also relates to a pharmaceutical composition, in particular dermatological, intended to treat and / or prevent skin pathologies related to the decrease in the proliferation of keratinocytes of the pathological skin, preferably of the pathological epidermis, preferably of the basal layer of the pathological epidermis, such as, for example, senile xerosis, diabetes, tetraplegia, Peeling Skin Syndrome, psoriasis and / or atopic dermatitis.

[0082] The invention will be better understood upon reading the description of the figures and examples that follow.

[0083] Examples referring to the description of the invention are given below. These examples are provided by way of illustration and shall in no way limit the scope of the invention. Each example is general in scope.

[0084] The examples form an integral part of the present invention and any feature which appears new in relation to any prior art from the description taken as a whole, including the examples, forms an integral part of the invention.

[0085] Furthermore, in the examples, all percentages are given by weight unless otherwise indicated, temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and pressure is atmospheric pressure unless otherwise indicated. Examples

[0086] Example 1 a: Preparation of Dendrobium officinale extract (powder) according to the invention

[0087] Fresh stems of Dendrobium officinale were extracted by maceration in water as the sole solvent via a centrifugation process (2 cycles of 3 minutes at 3000 rpm), decolorized with activated carbon, and filtered to obtain a clear liquid. This liquid was then concentrated in a vacuum evaporator (temperature of approximately 60-70°C and a pressure of approximately 0.04-0.06 MPa) and freeze-dried to obtain a white to beige powder. The resulting product is characterized by a water content of < 8.0% (w / w), a total nitrogen content of < 0.2% (w / w), and a carbohydrate (polysaccharide) content of > 80%. A powdered extract is thus obtained.

[0088] Example 1b: Preparation of the Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention with maltodextrin (powder)

[0089] Fresh stems of Dendrobium officinale were extracted by maceration in water as the sole solvent via a centrifugation process (2 cycles of 3 minutes at 3000 rpm), decolorized with activated carbon, filtered to obtain a clear liquid which is then concentrated in a vacuum evaporator (temperature of about 60-70°C and a pressure of about 0.04-0.06MPa).

[0090] The liquid extract obtained is mixed with maltodextrin in a ratio of 40% dry extract to 60% maltodextrin (% w / w) and the mixture is then lyophilized to obtain a white to beige powder. The resulting product is characterized by a water content < 8.0% (w / w), a total nitrogen content < 0.1% (w / w%), and a polysaccharide content between 35% and 45% (relative surface area by gel permeation chromatography (GPC)).

[0091] Example 1c: Preparation of the Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention mixed with glycols (liquid)

[0092] Fresh stems of Dendrobium officinale were extracted by maceration in water as the sole solvent via a centrifugation process (2 cycles of 3 minutes at 3000 rpm), decolorized with activated carbon, and filtered to obtain a clear liquid. This extract was then mixed with water, 2% pentylene glycol, and 0.5% caprylyl glycol to obtain a product containing 1% dry matter (w / w%), a total nitrogen content < 0.05% (w / w%), and characterized by a carbohydrate (polysaccharide) content > 0.8% (w / w%).

[0093] Example 1d: Preparation of the Dendrobium officinale extract according to the invention mixed with glycerin (liquid)

[0094] Fresh stems of Dendrobium officinale were extracted by maceration in water as the sole solvent via a centrifugation process (2 cycles of 3 minutes at 3000 rpm), decolorized with activated carbon, filtered to obtain a clear liquid and diluted to obtain a liquid with 80% glycerin (w / w%). The product the product obtained is characterized by a total nitrogen content < 0.05% (weight / weight%) and a carbohydrate (polysaccharide) content > 0.8% (weight / weight%).

[0095] Example 2 a: Increase in the thickness of the living layers of the epidermis

[0096] Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was prepared as follows.

[0097] For each condition, three RHEs were prepared (3 RHEs in non-control conditions). 3 RHEs were treated with the extract as per example 1b). On day 0, 30,000 cells / cm² of normal human dermal fibroblasts were seeded into a cell culture insert (0.47 cm², Nunc Carrier Platform Cell Culture). On day 2, 250,000 cells / cm² of normal human epidermal keratinocytes were seeded on the other side of the Nunc membrane. A DMEM-Ham medium with 10% fetal bovine serum was used and renewed daily until day 6 (for 4 days). Each culture was then placed at the air-liquid interface and cultured until day 16 (for 10 days) with a change of medium consisting of DMEM-Ham with 5% fetal bovine serum (FBS). The extract according to example 1b is then added at a dose of 100 qg / ml (treated model) into the culture medium, on day 16 and day 18. The control (untreated) epidermis receives no treatment.On day 20, RHE cultures are stopped and the reconstructed epidermis is stained with toluidine blue to analyze the thickness of the living layers of the epidermis, namely the basal layer, the spinous layer and the granular layer.

[0098] Each epidermis is cryo-sectioned to obtain 3 histological sections (a total of n = 9, for each condition) of 10 micrometers. For each image analyzed, 10 measurements were taken to determine an average thickness of the living layers (basal layer, granular layer and spinous layer) of the epidermis.

[0099] The results are expressed as mean thickness in square millimeters (m²), with standard deviation (SD), and are summarized in Table 1 below. Statistical comparison of the variation in thickness between treated and untreated epidermis was performed using Student's t-test, following the Sigmaplot® software recommendations (Systat Software Inv. USA). The significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0100] [Tables] Mean thickness SD Statistics, p-value Control untreated epidermis 45.8 sq m 11.4 sq m / Epidermis treated with extract according to example 1b 89.8 sq m 21.8 sq m p < 0.001

[0101] The results in Table 1 show that the product according to Example 1b increased the thickness of the basal layer, the spinous layer, and the granular layer. of the reconstructed human epidermis by a factor of 2.0 (p<0.001) compared with the untreated control epidermis.

[0102] Example 2b: Increased proliferation of keratinocytes in the basal layer

[0103] Reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) was prepared as follows.

[0104] Three RHEs were prepared for each condition (n = 3 for the untreated control epidermis and n = 3 for the epidermis treated with the extract according to Example 1b). On day 0, 30,000 cells / cm² of normal human dermal fibroblasts were seeded into a cell culture insert (0.47 cm², Nunc Carrier Platform Cell Culture). On day 2, 250,000 cells / cm² of normal human epidermal keratinocytes were seeded on the other side of the Nunc membrane. DMEM-Ham medium with 10% fetal bovine serum was used and renewed daily until day 6 (for 4 days). Each culture is then placed at the air-liquid interface and cultured until day 16 (for 10 days) with a change of medium consisting of DMEM-Ham with 5% fetal bovine serum (FBS). The extract according to Example 1b is then added at a dose of 100 µg / ml (treated model) to the culture medium on days 16 and 18. The control (untreated) epidermis receives no treatment.On day 20, RHE cultures are stopped by fixation.

[0105] Each epidermis is cryo-cut to obtain 3 sections of 10 micrometers. Each section is then incubated with anti-Ki67 antibodies (KI67 is a proliferation marker) and then with anti-anti-Ki67 antibodies, labeled with a fluorescent (green) substance.

[0106] Finally, each histological section (a total of n = 9 for each condition) was analyzed by immunofluorescence. For each image analyzed, 12 measurements were taken to determine the number of Ki67-positive cells per unit length of epidermis. For each analysis, the two most extreme measurements (the maximum and the minimum) were discarded.

[0107] The results are expressed as the number of Ki67-positive cells per unit length of epidermis, with standard deviation (SD), and are summarized in Table 2 below. Statistical comparison of the number of Ki67-positive cells in treated and untreated epidermis was performed using Student's t-test, following the Sigmaplot® software recommendations (Systat Software Inv. USA). The significance level was set at 5% (p<0.05).

[0108] [Tables2] Number of Ki67-positive cells per unit length of epidermis SD Statistics, p-value Control untreated epidermis 6.5 2.3 / Epidermis treated with extract according to example 1b 11 3.2 p < 0.01

[0109] The results in Table 2 show that the product according to Example 1b increased the number of Ki67-positive cells per unit length of the reconstructed human epidermis by a factor of 1.7 (p<0.01) compared with the untreated control epidermis. These results indicate that the extract according to the invention increases the proliferation of skin keratinocytes.

[0110] Example 3: Example of a cosmetic composition comprising an extract of Dendrobium officinale according to the invention

[0111] The different phases A, B, C, D indicated in Table 3 below are mixed together according to methods known to those skilled in the art to prepare a composition according to the present invention. The proportions are expressed as % and the names in capital letters correspond to the INCI names of the ingredients.

[0112] [Tableaux3] Phase A Quantity (% by total weight) GLYCERYL STEARATE AND PEG-100 STEARATE 4.00 PENTAERYTHRITYL DISTEARATE 1.50 CETEARYL ISONONANOATE 3.00 PROPYLHEPTYL CAPRYLATE 5.00 COCO CAPRYLATE 2.00 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 3.00 DIMETHICONE 1.00 Phase B Water 64.88 Propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, chlorphenesin, methylparaben 1.00 Glycerin 1.57 Xanthan gum 0.20 Butylene glycol 2.00 Sodium hydroxide, water 0.15 Phase C Carbomer 0.15 Water 10.5 Phase D Dendrobium officinale extract obtained according to example 0.05 Example 4: Example of a dermatological cream comprising an extract of Dendrobium officinale according to the invention

[0113] [Tables4] Phase Name Quantity (% by weight before al) A Water 78.7 A PROPYLENE GLYCOL (AND) PHENOXY ETHANOL (AND) CHLORPHENESIN (AND) METHYLPARABEN 2.5 A Glycerin 2 A SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.5 B DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 3 B COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE 3 B CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 3 B SUCROSE POLYSTEARATE (AND) CETYL PALMITATE 3 B PENTAERYTHRITYL DISTEARATE 1 B SODIUM POLYACRYLATE 0.7 C Water 0.9 C Dendrobium officinale extract obtained according to example 1 D Citric acid and water 0.7

[0114] Phases A and B are heated to 75°C and then mixed with stirring. Once the mixture has returned to room temperature, phases C and D are added with stirring.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic use, advantageously by topical route, of an extract of Dendrobium officinale to maintain and / or increase the thickness of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the healthy epidermis for the treatment of thin and / or thinned healthy skin and / or sensitive and / or sensitized healthy skin, characterized in that, for the treatment of sensitive and / or sensitized healthy skin, the extract is not used in combination with ribose and beta-glucan and the composition containing it does not include ribose and beta-glucan.

2. Cosmetic use according to the claim, to maintain and / or increase the proliferation of keratinocytes of the healthy epidermis.

3. Cosmetic use according to claim 2, to maintain and / or increase the proliferation of keratinocytes in the basal layer of the healthy epidermis.

4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Dendrobium officinale extract is an extract of the aerial parts, preferably an extract of the stem.

5. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extract of Dendrobium officinale is a polysaccharide extract.

6. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract of Dendrobium officinale is obtained by extraction in a protic polar solvent, preferably obtained by aqueous extraction, more preferably obtained by extraction in water as the sole solvent.

7. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the extract of Dendrobium officinale is in the form of an active ingredient in dry form, advantageously in association with maltodextrin.

8. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the Dendrobium officinale extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract at a concentration of 1 x 10⁴% and 10% (w / w), preferably between 1 x 10⁻³% and 10% (w / w), advantageously between 1 x 10⁻³% and 3% (w / w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w / w), and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w / w), by weight total composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

9. Use according to claim 8, characterized in that the composition further comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredients such as moisturizing agents, anti-aging agents, free radical scavengers, fibroblast growth factor (FGF) protecting agents, agents stimulating fibroblast activity and / or proliferation and / or thermal waters.

10. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is a topical use on specific parts of the body selected from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, neck, décolletage, belly, arms, thighs, hips, buttocks, waist, crotch, groin, torso, back, labial mucosa, face and / or scalp, in particular shaved areas, maceration areas such as the diaper area, fold areas such as the armpits, back of the elbows, back of the knees, buttocks, crotch, groin, neck, and / or around the lips and / or excessively cleaned areas.

11. A cosmetic treatment method for maintaining and / or increasing the thickness of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the healthy epidermis for the treatment of thin, thin, sensitive, sensitized and / or healthy skin, characterized in that it comprises the topical application on at least one area of ​​healthy skin of an extract of Dendrobium officinale and in that, for the treatment of sensitive and / or sensitized healthy skin, the extract is not used in combination with ribose and beta-glucan and the composition containing it does not include ribose and beta-glucan.

12. A cosmetic care process according to claim 11, wherein the Dendrobium officinale extract is in the form of a cosmetic composition comprising said extract, at a concentration of 1x104% and 10% (w / w), preferably between 1x103% and 10% (w / w), advantageously between 1x103% and 3% (w / w), more preferably between 0.01% and 3% (w / w), and even more preferably between 0.01% and 1% (w / w), relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition further comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

13. A cosmetic treatment method according to any one of claims 11 or 12, wherein the extract of Dendrobium officinale is as defined in any one of claims 4 to R

14. H- d. O. Extract of Dendrobium officinale or of a dermatological composition comprising it, for its use in the treatment and / or prevention and / or reduction of the occurrence of pathologies related to the reduction of the thickness of the basal layer, the spinous layer and / or the granular layer of the epidermis, such as senile xerosis, diabetes, tetraplegia, Peeling Skin Syndrome, psoriasis and / or atopic dermatitis and / or for the treatment of atopic, reactive and / or damaged skin.

15. Dendrobium officinale extract or dermatological composition comprising it for use according to claim 14, characterized in that the Dendrobium officinale extract is as defined in any one of claims 4 to 6.