COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN APPLE-DERIVED COMPLEX

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising apple pomace extract, apple oil, and apple water. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition of the invention. The present invention further relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for improving skin hydration, and / or protecting the skin, and / or nourishing the skin, and / or strengthening the epidermis, comprising applying a cosmetic composition to the skin, scalp, and / or mucous membranes. The present invention also relates to a device, in a form selected from a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal patch, a patch, or a spray, said device comprising a composition of the invention.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION COMPRISING A COMPLEX DERIVED FROM APPLE technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising an apple pomace extract, an apple oil, and apple water, as well as to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of the cosmetic composition, and to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process implementing the cosmetic composition and a device comprising it.

[0002] The present invention finds application in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, more particularly in cutaneous cosmetics. State of the art

[0003] The skin is a vital organ in its own right, composed of three distinct tissues, each assuming different roles through different cell types and structures.

[0004] The outermost, and therefore most exposed, tissue is the epidermis. This stratified (Malpighian) and keratinized epithelium is composed of different cells associated with numerous barrier and protective functions. The predominant cells are keratinocytes, which divide in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the stratum corneum (the outermost layer), then are shed by desquamation, on average in 21 to 28 days. The major role of the epidermis is to provide the skin, and therefore the human body, with a first line of protection against external aggressions, such as physical, chemical, water-related, and bacteriological aggressions. This protection is ensured in particular by the most differentiated layers and the stratum corneum, known for its hydrophobic properties and its compact and impermeable appearance. Good differentiation, and therefore good desquamation, is essential for a smooth, homogeneous, and regular surface.All of these mechanisms depend directly on the proliferative capacity of keratinocytes. However, external stresses and age alter keratinocytes and slow down this process, which can then become longer and more irregular. As desquamation becomes irregular and / or chaotic, defects in the smoothness and homogeneity of the skin surface develop.

[0005] In an intermediate position, the dermis is a connective tissue primarily composed of fibroblasts and matrix proteins, giving the skin its well-known compressibility and elasticity. Changes in its texture and composition are largely responsible for the skin alterations that occur during the Aging. The surface texture of the stratum corneum is directly influenced by the quality and density of the underlying dermis. More so than the epidermis, which renews itself rapidly and constantly, the dermis undergoes significant age-related changes due to the aging of its cells and structure. As we age and are exposed to environmental stressors, fibroblasts become less reactive and less proliferative. The synthesis of matrix macromolecules is no longer carried out by fibroblasts. Furthermore, these constituent macromolecules of the dermis, such as collagen fibers, elastic fibers, proteoglycans, and glycosaminoglycans (including hyaluronic acid), tend to degenerate and fragment.These phenomena of dermal tissue alteration cause a defect in the organization of the epidermis on the surface and, more visibly and directly, a loss of firmness that can lead to skin ptosis and / or the formation of wrinkles.

[0006] Within the connective tissue framework, other cells and structures are also interspersed, such as an important circulatory and nutritive network, consisting of blood vessels and lymphatic capillaries, as well as epidermal appendages: hair, body hair, nails, pilosebaceous glands, and sweat glands, which originate in the deep dermis. As previously observed with age and environmental stressors, cellular function slows down, and the endothelial cells constituting the vessels become less tightly joined and less functional, leading to impaired irrigation and nutrition of the integument and its appendages (glands or hair).

[0007] The hypodermis, located deep within and consisting mainly of fatty lobules (adipocytes), provides a primary support function, mechanical and thermal protection, and also plays a role in storing energy reserves that can be rapidly mobilized for all biological needs, such as cell renewal, defense of the body or muscle contraction.

[0008] The surface appearance of the skin is determined by all these tissues. In the epidermis, keratinocytes divide (via mitosis) in the basal layer and begin their differentiation up to the stratum corneum, followed by desquamation (i.e., their shedding), on average in 21 to 28 days. Proper keratinocyte metabolism is essential for a smooth, homogeneous, and even surface. Deeper in the dermis lies the endothelial network, which supplies the entire skin structure with blood circulation, providing water, nutrients, and oxygen. This mechanism depends directly on the body's healthy physiological state and also gives the skin its natural color (rosy complexion). However, external stressors, tobacco, and UV radiation slow down this process, which can then become more irregular and damaged: the entire network of endothelial cells suffers and deteriorates, leading to malnutrition, dehydration, and hypoxia.In addition, the flaking becomes irregular and / or chaotic. There are defects in smoothing and... uneven skin surface homogeneity, a more heterogeneous or yellowish complexion, dehydration or dryness develop.

[0009] These mechanisms can occur as a consequence of exogenous or endogenous stresses, and can be completely disconnected from age-related mechanisms; on the other hand, the latter accentuate them.

[0010] From a general point of view, the aging process is a generalized process resulting from the advancement of age (intrinsic aging) or from the accumulation of effects due to repeated environmental aggressions (extrinsic aging).

[0011] For the cosmetics market, it is therefore necessary to biologically stimulate one or more mechanisms involved in the aesthetic appearance of the skin in direct or indirect relation to the hydration, nutrition, radiance and protection of the skin.

[0012] The cosmetics market is very large and consumer expectations are very high. In terms of anti-aging or not, they are increasingly turning to effective, natural and eco-designed products.

[0013] There is therefore a real need to find new compositions and / or compounds of natural origin, enabling the improvement of the appearance and surface qualities of the skin, in particular to improve skin hydration, to protect the skin, to nourish the skin, and / or to strengthen the epidermis. Description of the invention

[0014] The present invention is specifically designed to address these needs and drawbacks of the prior art.

[0015] The inventors are the very first to combine an apple pomace extract, apple oil, and apple water, making it possible to effectively meet the aforementioned needs.

[0016] The inventors have in particular highlighted an effect of the combination of an apple pomace extract, an apple oil, and apple water on the improvement of the appearance and surface qualities of the skin, in particular for effects of hydration, skin protection, nourishment of the skin, and / or strengthening of the epidermis.

[0017] Surprisingly, the inventors have also demonstrated a synergy between an apple pomace extract, apple oil, and apple water for the aforementioned cosmetic effects. In particular, the inventors have demonstrated a synergistic effect of the three apple actives in reducing the inflammatory response and thus protecting the skin from external aggressions and oxidative stress.

[0018] Thus, a first object of the invention relates to an association comprising an apple pomace extract, an apple oil, and apple water.

[0019] For the purposes of this invention, "apple" means the fruit from apple trees, in particular Malus domestica, these being trees of the botanical genus Malus and of the Rosaceae family.

[0020] Apple pomace extract can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art. It may, in particular, be a co-product of processing apples for the production of juice or cider. For example, it is obtained after deseeding and pressing the apples, by recovering the dehydrated pulp and peel, but without the stem. The apple pomace is then extracted by hydroalcoholic maceration, filtered, concentrated, pasteurized, and standardized in glycerin.

[0021] Apple oil can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art, for example by cold pressing apple seeds.

[0022] Apple water can be obtained by any process known to those skilled in the art, for example by extraction by distillation followed by condensation of the vapors under vacuum at mild temperature.

[0023] Advantageously, in the combination of the invention, the apple water may have a concentration of between 80 and 97.9%, the apple pomace extract may have a concentration of between 2 and 20%, and the apple oil may have a concentration of between 0.1 and 4%, said concentrations being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the combination. For example, the apple water may have a concentration of approximately 85.5%, the apple pomace extract may have a concentration of approximately 14.2%, and the apple oil may have a concentration of approximately 0.3%.

[0024] For example, the mixture may comprise about 89.5% apple water, about 7.5% apple pomace extract and about 3% apple seed oil.

[0025] In another example, the mixture may comprise about 97% apple water, about 2.5% apple extract, and about 0.5% apple oil.

[0026] The association may consist of an apple pomace extract, an apple oil, and apple water, in which case the sum of the percentages of the three aforementioned active ingredients is equal to 100%.

[0027] The association can be prepared by any suitable process known to a person skilled in the art, for example by mixing.

[0028] Advantageously, the apple pomace extract may comprise 70% to 80%, for example about 74 or 75% by weight of sugars relative to the total dry weight of said pomace, 4% to 6%, for example about 5.0 to 5.2% by weight of polyphenols relative to the total dry weight of said pomace, as well as quercetin derivatives.

[0029] Advantageously, apple oil may comprise from 50% to 70%, for example 60%, of linoleic acid. Advantageously, apple oil may comprise from 20% to 35%, for example 28%, of oleic acid. Advantageously, apple oil may comprise from 3% to 15%, for example 7%, of palmitic acid. Advantageously, apple oil may comprise from 0.1% to 1.0%, for example 0.5%, of linolenic acid. These percentages are given by weight relative to the total weight of said oil.

[0030] Advantageously, apple water comprises volatile odorant molecules, notably selected from sulcatone, amandol and capronaldehyde, and minerals, notably selected from calcium, sodium and magnesium.

[0031] Another object of the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising an association of the invention.

[0032] In the present invention, the term "cosmetic composition" means any composition intended for cosmetic, i.e., aesthetic, purposes that may be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body, for example, the epidermis, hair and scalp, external organs, teeth, and external mucous membranes. Advantageously, a cosmetic composition allows, exclusively or primarily, for their protection, perfuming, maintenance in good condition, modification of their appearance, or correction of superficial defects. In particular, a cosmetic composition may include a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.

[0033] In the context of the present invention, the term "dermatological composition" means any composition intended for dermatological use, that is to say, a composition that can be brought into contact with the superficial parts of the human body for the treatment of the skin, mucous membranes, and skin appendages, for example, nails, hair, and / or body hair. In particular, a dermatological composition may include a dermatologically acceptable vehicle.

[0034] By "cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle" is meant a vehicle suitable for use in contact with human skin cells, in particular epidermal cells, without toxicity, irritation, undue allergic reaction and the like, and proportionate to a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. The cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable vehicle may be selected from water, allantoin, glycerin, methylpropanediol, this list not being exhaustive.

[0035] The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.001 to 99% by weight of the association of the invention, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition may comprise approximately 5 to approximately 25% of the association of the invention.

[0036] The composition of the invention may comprise a weight percentage of apple pomace extract of between 0.0001 and 10%, for example, from 0.001 to 10%, or from 0.01 to 10%, or from 0.1% to 10%, or from 0.5% to 10%, or from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; a weight percentage of apple oil of between 0.0001 and 10%, for example, from 0.001 to 10%, or from 0.01 to 10%, or from 0.1% to 10%, or from 0.2% to 10%, or from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and a weight percentage of apple water of between 0.0001 and 40%, for example from 0.001 to 40%, or from 0.01 to 40%, or from 0.1% to 40%, or from 1% to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] In particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may include a weight percentage of apple pomace extract of between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a weight percentage of apple oil of between 0.05 and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and a weight percentage of apple water of between 3 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] For example, the cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise about 6% apple water, about 0.5% apple pomace extract and about 0.2% apple oil.

[0039] According to another example, the cosmetic composition of the invention may comprise about 20% apple water, about 0.5% apple pomace extract, and about 0.1% apple oil.

[0040] The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the invention can be obtained by any suitable process known to those skilled in the art for manufacturing a cosmetic or dermatological composition. This may be, for example, a simple mixture. It may also be, for example, a process comprising a step of incorporating an internal phase into an external phase by means of an emulsifier, for example, a rotor-stator type turbine. It may also be, for example, a process using Temperature Inversion Phase (TIP), this process being classically used by those skilled in the art to obtain oil-in-water emulsions with particularly fine dispersed droplets, for example, with a diameter of 0.1 to 1 µm.

[0041] The cosmetic or dermatological composition of the present invention can be in any form suitable for cosmetic or dermatological application. Advantageously, the composition is a composition for topical use.

[0042] According to the invention, the composition may, in particular, be in a form selected from a cream, ointment, oil, milk, pomade, solution, powder, gel, serum, balm, butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, soap, or emulsion that may be rinsed off or not rinsed off. In the case of emulsions, it may, for example, be a composition in a form selected from the group comprising an oil-in-water emulsion, or a water-in-oil emulsion, or a mixture of these emulsions. In the case of a powder, it may be a loose powder or a compressed powder, for example, in the form of granules, pellets, possibly to be diluted, or in the form of a compact powder. The cosmetic or dermatological composition may, for example, be in a form selected from the group comprising an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic cream. and an aqueous or hydroalcoholic lotion. These formulations, usable for implementing the present invention, are known in the prior art to formulators. In these composition examples, it is sufficient to add the combination of apple active ingredients of the present invention to obtain a composition conforming to the present invention.

[0043] The combination of the invention, also referred to interchangeably as the "apple complex" herein, can be used in a cosmetic or dermatological composition alone or in combination with one or more other cosmetically or dermatologically active or inactive substances or ingredients. Inactive substances or ingredients are those that do not have a cosmetic or dermatological effect. These are the elements of the composition that, in particular, accompany the extract, constitute a specific formulation, preserve the active extract over time, etc. They may also include any basic product found in conventional cosmetic or dermatological compositions. In contrast, active substances or ingredients are those that, in the intended cosmetic or dermatological application, have an aesthetic and / or medical effect. They may, for example, include at least one other plant extract.

[0044] Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition of the invention or of a combination of the invention.

[0045] Advantageously, non-therapeutic cosmetic use may have the effect of improving the hydration of the skin, scalp and / or mucous membranes, and / or providing protection to the skin, scalp and / or mucous membranes, and / or nourishing the skin, and / or strengthening the epidermis.

[0046] Without being bound by a particular mechanism, skin protection seems to be linked to a reduction of inflammatory reactions induced by external aggressions, skin protection seems to be linked to a reduction in the formation of superoxide radicals, strengthening of the epidermis seems to be linked to a stimulation of keratinocyte metabolism.

[0047] Advantageously, the apple complex can: - to reduce the inflammatory response to protect the skin from external aggressions and oxidative stress,

[0048] - stimulate the synthesis of water-capturing molecules for better hydration cellular, - to stimulate glucose synthesis in skin tissue, the molecule responsible for cellular energy production, - stimulate ATP synthesis, which provides energy to the cell, for optimal cell function and activation of bio- mechanisms logics ingrained in them.

[0049] For the purposes of this invention, "mucous membrane" means, in particular, external mucous membranes such as the lips.

[0050] The cosmetic action aims in particular to improve the aesthetics of the skin. It is therefore a purely aesthetic action, excluding any therapeutic action, allowing to improve the surface appearance of the skin, and / or its appendages and / or mucous membranes, in particular to present, in the long term, a more aesthetic, regular and / or homogeneous appearance.

[0051] As previously stated, the use of the cosmetic composition may be in a form chosen from a cream, ointment, oil, milk, pomade, solution, powder, gel, serum, balm, butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, soap or emulsion which may be rinsed or not rinsed.

[0052] Another object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment method for improving the appearance of the skin, comprising applying a cosmetic composition or combination as described above to the skin, scalp, and / or mucous membranes. The non-therapeutic cosmetic method of the invention is therefore an aesthetic skin treatment method.

[0053] Advantageously, the non-therapeutic cosmetic process can improve the appearance of the skin, and / or improve the hydration of the skin, scalp and / or mucous membranes, and / or can protect the skin, scalp and / or mucous membranes, nourish the skin, scalp and / or mucous membranes and / or strengthen the epidermis.

[0054] In the context of the cosmetic processes according to the invention, use refers to non-therapeutic use, for example, for the treatment of normal skin. In the present context, "normal skin" means skin not exhibiting a pathological condition.

[0055] In general, any cosmetic use and any cosmetic process according to the invention are respectively non-therapeutic cosmetic uses and non-therapeutic cosmetic processes.

[0056] Another object of the invention relates to a device in a form chosen from a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, the device comprising a composition or a combination as defined above.

[0057] Other advantages may also become apparent to a person skilled in the art upon reading the examples below, given by way of illustration. EXAMPLES

[0058] Example 1: Preparation of apple pomace extract

[0059] An apple pomace extract is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0060] Organic apple pomace, dried and crushed, is mixed with a mixture of demineralized water and 96% BIO ethanol (70 / 30-w / w), in a proportion of 1 / 10.

[0061] An extraction is carried out at 50°C for 2 hours with stirring. The solid phase is then separated from the liquid phase using a centrifugal decanter. The spent grains are separated. A crude extract is thus obtained (turbidity approximately 1200 NTU).

[0062] A series of filtrations on cellulose plates down to 0.2 pm are then carried out, which allows obtaining a sterile filtrate, suspended in 30% ethanol (dry matter content approximately 1.2%).

[0063] The sterile filtrate is then concentrated under vacuum (<50 mbar) at a maximum temperature of 50°C. The distillate is separated.

[0064] A concentrated aqueous extract is thus obtained, containing approximately 6.5% (w / w) of target dry matter, for approximately 7.5% (w / w) maximum of dry matter.

[0065] Then, a pasteurization step is carried out at 120°C for a temperature of approximately 30 seconds. At this stage, the target dry matter content is approximately 6.5% (w / w) for approximately 7.5% (w / w) maximum dry matter content.

[0066] Standardization is then carried out in 60% glycerin (2% DM) with the addition of water if necessary, under stirring and at a temperature of approximately 50°C.

[0067] The mixture is then filtered through cellulose plates down to 0.45 µm at a temperature of about 50°C, and the final extract is obtained. Example 2: Preparing apple oil

[0068] Apple oil is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0069] Apple seeds are conditioned at 60°C, then pressed. The pressed oil is then filtered and stored in a cold room.

[0070] The oil is then dried, bleached, dewaxed, deodorized and then packaged under nitrogen. Example 3: Preparing apple water

[0071] Apple water is prepared according to the following protocol:

[0072] Dried apple pomace is steam-distilled using a steam generator at a rate of 500 kg / h in a large (2500 L) tank. The steam passes through the mass of dry plant material contained in the basket positioned in the tank. The outlet vapors are then condensed, and the solid residue is separated.

[0073] The distillate (crude hydrosol) is treated at a temperature of 35-40°C.

[0074] A preliminary laboratory test is carried out by adding stabilizers, to obtain a final pH between 4.0 and 4.6.

[0075] Preservatives are then incorporated: 0.1% (w / w) potassium sorbate (1 kg) + 0.4% (w / w) sodium benzoate (4 kg) under medium stirring, at a temperature of approximately 25°C for 30 minutes. 0.22% (w / w) citric acid (2.2 kg) is added with medium stirring at a temperature of approximately 25°C for 1 hour. The pH is adjusted, if necessary, between 4.0 and 4.6 using a 10% w / w citric acid solution. A pH control step can then be performed to verify that the pH is between 4.0 and 4.6.

[0076] A pre-filtration and sterilizing filtration step on a 0.2 µm plate or equivalent, followed by a complementary pasteurization step are carried out.

[0077] A sterile hydrosol is obtained, which is conditioned and subjected to physicochemical and microbiological controls.

[0078] Example 4: Effect of the apple pomace, apple oil and apple water complex on the synthesis of acidic GAGs

[0079] Expiants of 12+1 mm in diameter are prepared from a plasty taken from a Caucasian woman, phototype-II. They are kept alive in BEM (BIO-EC's Expiants Medium) at 37°C in a humid atmosphere, enriched with 5% CO2.

[0080] An apple complex, incorporated into a formula chassis and comprising 6% apple water, 0.5% apple pomace extract, and 0.2% apple oil, is applied to skin excipients, compared to the formula chassis alone (placebo), at a rate of 2 µl per excipient (2 mg / cm²) and spread using a spatula (Day 0). The treatment is repeated on Days 1, 4, 6, and 8. The skin excipients are collected on Day 8, fixed in formalin, embedded in paraffin, and then sectioned for histological staining. The cell viability of epidermal and dermal structures is observed after staining with Masson's trichrome, Goldner variant. In parallel, acidic glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are visualized with Alcian blue PAS (Periodic Acid Schiff), and neutral GAGs with Schiff's reagent. A semi-quantitative analysis of the surface of the markings is then carried out by image analysis.A 302% increase in the synthesis of acidic GAGs was measured in the expiry treated with the apple complex, compared to placebo.

[0081] The apple complex stimulates the synthesis of molecules that capture and retain water, including acidic GAGs, for better cellular hydration.

[0082] Example 5: Effect of the apple pomace, apple oil and apple water complex on glucose synthesis

[0083] Expiants of 12+1 mm in diameter are prepared from a plasty taken from a Caucasian woman, phototype-II. They are kept alive in BEM (BIO-EC's Expiants Medium) at 37°C in a humid atmosphere, enriched with 5% CO2.

[0084] An apple complex, incorporated into a formula chassis and comprising 20% ​​apple water, 0.5% apple pomace extract and 0.1% apple oil, is applied to the skin excipients, compared with the formula chassis alone (placebo), at a rate of 2 µl per expiant (2 mg / cm²) and spread using a spatula (JO). The treatment was repeated on days 1, 4, 6, and 8. Glucose levels were measured in the skin expiants after grinding and extraction, and in the culture supernatants on day 8, 3 hours after the last retreatment. This was performed using the GLUC HK Gen.3 Kit (Roche, ref. 08057800190) with a colorimetric enzymatic method using hexokinase.

[0085] A 32% increase in glucose synthesis is measured on the expiry treated with the apple complex, compared to placebo.

[0086] The apple active complex stimulates glucose synthesis in skin tissue, a molecule responsible for cellular energy production (Table 1 below).

[0087] [Tables 1] Placebo Complex “CARE” Glucose Synthesis 100% 132% (SD ±8.8%)

[0088] Example 6: Effect of the apple pomace, apple oil and apple water complex on ATP synthesis

[0089] Expiants with a diameter of 12+1 mm are prepared from a skin graft taken from an elderly Caucasian woman, phototype II. They are maintained in BEM (BIO-EC's Expiants Medium) at 37°C in a humid atmosphere enriched with 5% CO2. An apple complex, incorporated into a formula chassis and comprising 20% ​​apple water, 0.5% apple pomace extract, and 0.1% apple oil, is applied to the skin expiants, compared to the formula chassis alone (placebo), at a rate of 2 µl per expiant (2 mg / cm2) and spread using a spatula (Day 0). The treatment is repeated on Days 1, 4, 6, and 8. ATP levels are measured on the skin expiants on Day 8, after grinding and extraction, 3 hours after the last retreatment.

[0090] The assay is carried out using the ATP Assay kit (Abcam ref. ab83355, sensitivity IpM), based on the phosphorylation reaction of glycerol to generate a product easily detectable by colorimetry (ODmax = 570 nm) or fluorimetry (Ex / Em = 535 / 587 nm).

[0091] A 45% increase in ATP synthesis is measured on the expiry treated with the apple complex, compared to placebo.

[0092] The apple active complex stimulates ATP synthesis which provides energy to cells (Table 2 below).

[0093] [Tables2] Placebo Complex “CARE” ATP Synthesis 100% 145% (SD ±13%)

[0094] Example 7: Effect of apple pomace and apple oil on keratinocyte metabolism

[0095] Normal human epidermal keratinocytes are seeded in a monolayer in Keratinocyte-SFM medium. They are cultured at 37°C under a 5% CO2 atmosphere with saturated humidity. After 24 hours of incubation, the cells are treated or untreated (control) with apple pomace extract or apple seed oil. Cellular metabolism is assessed by quantifying mitochondrial activity (by measuring MTT hydrolysis) at 24, 72, and 144 hours. The positive reference corresponds to a mixture of 0.25 ng / ml EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor) and 25 pg / ml PE (Pituitary Extract).

[0096] A 19% increase in keratinocyte metabolism (representative of their proliferative activity) is measured in the presence of apple seed oil after 144 hours of treatment and 35% with apple pomace extract after 24 hours compared to the untreated control.

[0097] It should be noted that, with regard to the mixture concentrations used, a conversion factor exists between in vivo and in vitro models due to the bioavailability of the active ingredients in the formulation when applied in vivo. In any case, the concentration used complies with the usual practices in force in the cosmetics industry for validating in vitro versus in vivo effects.

[0098] The pomace extract and apple oil strengthen the epidermis by stimulating the renewal of keratinocytes over time (Table 3 below).

[0099] [Tables3] Keratinocyte Metabolism Concentration Control Untreated - 100% Apple Pomace Extract - 24h 0.01% 135% 0.1% 130% Apple Seed Oil - 144h 10-5% 115% 5.10-5% 119%

[0100] Example 8: Effect of apple pomace on the formation of superoxide radicals

[0101] The anti-radical effect of apple pomace extract against the superoxide radical O2° is measured by an acellular method. The apple pomace extract is brought into contact with free radical-generating reagents according to the following reactions:

[0102] NADH + H+ + PMS NAD+ + PMSH2

[0103] PMSH2 + 2O2 2O2° + 2 H+ + PMS

[0104] A superoxide anion O2° is formed from the chemical system: PMS or Phenazine MethoSulfate / NADH2. This causes the reduction of Tetrazolium NitroBlue (NBT) to formazan blue, which absorbs at 570 nm.

[0105] NBT + 4 O2° + 4 H+ diformazan + 4 O2 + 2 HCl

[0106] This reaction takes place at 28°C and is monitored over a 5-minute kinetic cycle with Optical density is measured every 20 seconds. The curve is linear over a given period; the slope of this line then represents the reducing activity of the superoxide fan ion. The radical scavenging effectiveness of a compound is established by comparing the slope of the line in the presence of the active compound to that of a control without a radical scavenging agent. This effectiveness is expressed in rutin equivalents after comparison with that of a rutin solution of known concentration.

[0107] A minimum 25% reduction in the formation of superoxide radicals is measured in the presence of apple pomace extract.

[0108] It should be noted that, with regard to the mixture concentrations used, a conversion factor exists between in vivo and in vitro models due to the bioavailability of the active ingredients in the formulation when applied in vivo. In any case, the concentration used complies with the usual practices in force in the cosmetics industry for validating in vitro versus in vivo effects.

[0109] Apple pomace extract protects the skin by reducing the formation of superoxide radicals (Table 4). It can therefore help to reduce the harmful effects of oxidative attacks caused by different types of stress.

[0110] [Tables4] Concentration Inhibition of free radical scavenging activity Control Untreated - 100% Apple pomace extract 0.34% 34% 0.69% 56% 1.7% 75%

[0111] Example 9: Effect of apple pomace, apple oil and apple water on the inflammatory response induced by physical stress (UV)

[0112] Normal human epidermal keratinocytes are seeded in a monolayer in complete Keratinocyte-SFM medium. They are cultured at 37°C under a 5% CO2 atmosphere with saturated humidity. The cells are treated or untreated (control) for 48 hours with apple water, apple pomace extract, or apple seed oil. 24 hours after the start of treatment, the cells are irradiated with UV radiation at 593 kJ / m2 to induce an inflammatory process. Cell viability after irradiation and treatment is determined by mitochondrial activity (MTT hydrolysis measurement). The pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and TNF-α are measured in the cell culture supernatants and quantified by ELISA. The values ​​obtained are then correlated with viability.

[0113] A 95% decrease in TNFa synthesis is measured in the presence of apple water, compared to the untreated control.

[0114] A 43% decrease in IL6 synthesis is measured in the presence of apple pomace extract, compared to the untreated control.

[0115] A 69% decrease in IL6 synthesis is measured in the presence of apple oil, compared to the untreated control.

[0116] It should be noted that, with regard to the mixture concentrations used, a conversion factor exists between in vivo and in vitro models due to the bioavailability of the active ingredients in the formulation when applied in vivo. In any case, the concentration used complies with the usual practices in force in the cosmetics industry for validating in vitro versus in vivo effects.

[0117] The 3 active ingredients of apple protect the skin by reducing the inflammatory response (Table 5). They can therefore help to reduce the sensitivity / fragility of the skin to external aggressions and soothe fragile skin.

[0118] [Tables5] Concentration of Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production Control Untreated - 100% Apple Water 0.5% 66% IL6 Apple Pomace Extract 102% 57% Apple Seed Oil 105% 31% Apple Water 0.5% 5% TNF-α Apple Pomace Extract 102% 68%

[0119] Example 10: Effect of apple pomace, apple oil and apple water on the chemical stress-induced inflammatory response (PMA)

[0120] Normal human epidermal keratinocytes are seeded in a monolayer in KGM Gold medium. They are cultured at 37°C under a 5% CO2 atmosphere with saturated humidity. The cells are pre-treated or untreated (control) with apple water, apple pomace extract, apple seed oil, and the complex of the three active ingredients in equal proportions. After 24 hours of treatment, the cells are stressed with 0.1g / ml of PMA and incubated under light conditions to induce an inflammatory process. The pro-inflammatory cytokine TNFα is measured in the cell culture supernatants and quantified by ELISA. In parallel, cell viability is measured for each condition. The technique utilizes the reducing power of viable cells to convert resazurin into fluorescent resorufin (PrestoBlue™ Assay). The values ​​obtained for TNFa are thus related to viability.A Student's t-test was performed to verify the significance of the results compared to the PMA control.

[0121] A synergy between the active ingredients of the apple complex is observed compared to the effects of the active ingredients taken separately (Table 6).

[0122] A 5% decrease in TNFa synthesis is measured in the presence of apple water, compared to the untreated control and PMA-stressed control.

[0123] A 15% increase in TNFa synthesis is measured in the presence of apple pomace extract, compared to the untreated and PMA-stressed control.

[0124] A 2% decrease in TNFa synthesis is measured in the presence of apple oil, compared to the untreated control and PMA-stressed control.

[0125] A 20% decrease in TNFa synthesis is measured in the presence of the complex of 3 apple actives, compared to the untreated control and stressed at PMA.

[0126] [Tableauxô] Concentration of TNFα pro-inflammatory cytokine production: Control, Untreated, Stressed with 0.1g / ml of PMA - 100% Apple water 3.103% 95% NS Apple pomace extract 5.104% 115% NS Apple seed oil 105% 98% P<0.001% COMPLEX Apple water 3.103% + Apple extract 5.104% + Apple seed oil 105% 80% P<0.001%

[0127] Example 11: Effect of apple water on keratinocyte differentiation and barrier function

[0128] Normal human epidermal keratinocytes are seeded in monolayer and in complete Keratinocyte-SFM medium. They are cultured at 37°C under a 5% CO2 atmosphere with saturated humidity. After 8 days of culture, the cells are treated or not (control) with apple cider vinegar or 1.5 mM calcium chloride (reference). The cells are incubated for an additional 3 days. After rinsing with PBS buffer, fixation, and permeabilization, filaggrin is detected by immunostaining, and the nuclei are stained with Hoechst 33258. Keratinocyte differentiation is assessed by quantifying the intensity of filaggrin staining.

[0129] An increase of +114% in the labeling of filaggrin, a marker of epidermal differentiation, is measured in the presence of apple water, compared to the untreated control.

[0130] It should be noted that, with regard to the mixture concentrations used, a factor of A difference exists between in vivo and in vitro models due to the bioavailability of the active ingredients in the formulation when applied in vivo. In any case, the concentration used complies with standard practices in the cosmetics industry for validating in vitro versus in vivo effects.

[0131] Apple water nourishes and hydrates the skin by stimulating keratinocyte differentiation and barrier function (Table 7). It can therefore contribute to maintaining optimum hydration within the skin tissue.

[0132] [Tables?] Concentration of Filaggrin Synthesis Control Untreated 100% CaCl2 1.5 mM 465% Apple Water 0.1% 159% 0.5% 214% 1% 202%

[0133] Example 12: Example of a cream-type facial care composition

[0134] The percentages are given in mass relative to the total mass of the com position. Water q.s.p. 100% Texturizing Agent(s) 0.05 to 0.5% Glycol(s) 0.5 to 10% Glycerin 0.5 to 10% Acylglutamate 0.5 to 5% Montanov™ L 1 to 7% Glyceryl Monostearate 1 to 5% Fatty Ester(s) 1 to 10% Vegetable Oil(s) 0.5 to 10% Squalane 1 to 5% Hyaluronic Acid 0.05 to 0.5% Apple Pomace Extract 0.0001 to 3% Apple Water 0.0001 to 20% Apple Oil 0.0001 to 3% Antioxidant(s) 0.01 to 1% Fragrance q.s. Preservative(s) q.s. pH Regulator(s) 0.01 to 1%

[0136] Example 13: Example of a serum-type facial care composition

[0137] The percentages are given in mass relative to the total mass of the com position. Water q.s.p. 100% Texturizing agent(s) 0.05 to 0.5% Glycol(s) 0.5 to 10% Glycerin 0.5 to 10% Hyaluronic acid 0.05 to 0.5% Apple pomace extract 0.0001 to 3% Apple water 0.0001 to 20% Apple oil 0.0001 to 3% Fragrance q.s. Preservative(s) q.s. pH regulating agent(s) 0.01 to 1%

Claims

Demands

1. Association comprising an apple pomace extract, an apple oil, and apple water.

2. Association according to claim 1, wherein said apple water is at a concentration of between 89 and 97.9%, said apple pomace extract is at a concentration of between 2 and 20%, and said apple oil is at a concentration of between 0.1 and 4%, said concentrations being by weight relative to the total weight of the association.

3. Association according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said apple pomace extract comprises 70% to 80% by weight of sugars relative to the total dry weight of said pomace, 4% to 6% by weight of polyphenols relative to the total dry weight of said pomace, and quercetin derivatives.

4. Association according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said apple oil comprises 50% to 70% linoleic acid, 20% to 35% oleic acid, 3% to 15% palmitic acid and 0.1% to 1.0% linolenic acid, by weight relative to the total weight of said oil.

5. Association according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein said apple water comprises volatile odorant molecules, in particular selected from sulcatone, amandol and capronaldehyde, and minerals, in particular selected from calcium, sodium and magnesium.

6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising a combination according to any one of the preceding claims.

7. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the weight percentage of apple pomace extract is between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight percentage of apple oil is between 0.0001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight percentage of apple water is between 0.0001 and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the weight percentage of apple pomace extract is between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the weight percentage of apple oil is between 0.05 and 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the weight percentage of Apple water is included between 3 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use of an association as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5, or of a cosmetic composition as defined according to any one of claims 6 to 8.

10. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 9, to improve skin hydration, and / or to protect the skin, and / or to nourish the skin, and / or to strengthen the epidermis.

11. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use according to claim 9 or 10, said use being in a form selected from a cream, ointment, oil, milk, ointment, solution, powder, gel, serum, balm, butter, lotion, suspension, shampoo, soap or emulsion which may be rinsed off or not rinsed off.

12. A non-therapeutic cosmetic care method for improving skin hydration, and / or for protecting the skin, and / or for nourishing the skin, and / or for strengthening the epidermis, comprising applying to the skin, scalp and / or mucous membranes an association as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5 or a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 6 to 8.

13. Device in a form selected from a jar, a pump bottle, a wipe, a mask, a transdermal device, a patch, a spray, said device comprising an association as defined in any one of claims 1 to 5 or a composition as defined according to any one of claims 6 to 8.