Eyelash curling process using a composition comprising cysteine ​​and an organic base

Abstract

Title: Eyelash Curling Method Using a Composition Comprising Cysteine ​​and an Organic Base. The present invention relates to a method for coating keratin fibers, particularly eyelashes, and more particularly for curling said keratin fibers, comprising applying to said keratin fibers a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least 40.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of cysteine ​​and / or one of its salts; etc.; at least one organic base; said composition having a pH greater than 8.0; said method not comprising an oxidation step with an oxidizing agent other than air. The present invention also relates to a composition as defined above wherein the organic base is monoethanolamine.

Description

Title of the invention: A method for curling eyelashes using a composition comprising cysteine ​​and an organic base

[0001] The present application relates to the field of makeup for keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes.

[0002] Consumers usually look for keratinous surfaces such as the lower and / or upper eyelids, such as eyeliners, shine, color intensity and good holding properties, especially in water, in makeup compositions.

[0003] Generally speaking, compositions designed for applying makeup to keratin fibers such as eyelashes aim to increase the thickness and visual appearance of eyelashes or eyebrows, and ultimately enhance the look of the eyes. However, another property particularly sought after by consumers is to achieve a significant curl of these keratin fibers that remains consistent after repeated makeup removal. Anhydrous, water-resistant mascaras do not allow for the retention of eyelash curl after several makeup removals.

[0004] In salons, professionals use a makeup process inspired by hair perming techniques. This process involves, firstly, applying a reducing composition to the eyelashes. This composition includes a reducing agent (for example, ammonium thioglycolate and its derivatives, thiol compounds) that breaks the disulfide bonds in the eyelash keratin. Secondly, an oxidizing composition is applied, including at least one oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide, to re-establish the disulfide bonds in the eyelash keratin, shape the eyelashes, and achieve a lasting curl. This process has the disadvantages of being cumbersome, uncomfortable, and not allowing consumers to easily perform this procedure themselves at home.

[0005] Patent applications KR101823336 and KR101823401 proposed a method for semi-permanently curling eyelashes comprising the application to the eyelashes of a mascara containing at least one reducing agent such as cysteine, cysteamine, thiol compounds, sodium bisulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium hydrosulfite, or superoxide dismutase, and at least one antioxidant such as a phosphoric acid-based compound or a compound based on zinc, gold, tin, or silver, followed by washing and drying the treated eyelashes. This semi-permanent eyelash-curling technique is not entirely satisfactory with regard to the significant curling effect obtained and the persistence of the effect after makeup removal.

[0006] A method for coating, and more particularly for curling eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising is known from published patent application FR3114501Al - at least a first application step of a first composition (A) comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 40.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and at least 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of cysteine ​​and / or one of its salts; said composition having a pH greater than 8.0 and successively - at least one second application step on said fibers treated by composition (A) of at least one second composition (B) comprising, preferably, in a physiologically acceptable medium: i) an aqueous phase; and ii) an oily phase comprising at least one wax; and iii) at least one anionic surfactant comprising at least one cationic counter-ion, preferably said anionic surfactant being in a form neutralized by said counter-ion (iv) possibly at least one aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer particles. This two-step eyelash curling technique may be perceived as restrictive by consumers.

[0007] There therefore remains a need to find a new one-step process for making up keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, and especially for curling eyelashes, which is easier to implement at home for the consumer and produces an effective and lasting curl of said fibers, without the constraints of the known prior art processes mentioned above such as the use of an oxidizing agent other than air and / or a shaping support.

[0008] Unexpectedly, the inventors found that it is possible to achieve these objectives with a process for coating keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, and more particularly for curling said keratin fibers, comprising at least the application to said keratin fibers of a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least 40.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) at least 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of cysteine ​​and / or one of its salts; and c) at least one organic base; said composition having a pH greater than 8.0; said process not comprising an oxidation step by an oxidizing agent other than air.

[0009] The inventors also unexpectedly discovered a new composition as defined above, where the organic base is monoethanolamine.

[0010] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention

[0011] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a method for coating keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, and more particularly for curling said keratin fibers, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least 40.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cysteine ​​composition and / or one of its salts; and c) at least one organic base; said composition having a pH greater than 8.0; said process not comprising an oxidation step by an oxidizing agent other than air.

[0012] A second object of the present invention is a composition as defined above, where the organic base is monoethanolamine. Definitions

[0013] In the context of the present invention, "keratin fibers" include, in particular, eyelashes. The term "keratin fibers," as used in the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes and false eyebrows.

[0014] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with keratin fibers, the skin around the eye, which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition. Cysteine

[0015] According to the present invention, the composition comprises at least 1.0% by weight of cysteine ​​and / or one of its salts relative to the total weight of the composition

[0016] Among the cosmetically acceptable salts of cysteine, we can more particularly mention hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, citrates, acetates and sulfates.

[0017] Preferably, the cysteine ​​used can be chosen from L-cysteine, D-cysteine ​​or L,D-cysteine. L-cysteine ​​or one of its salts will be used more particularly.

[0018] Cysteine ​​and / or one of the salts is preferably present at a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

[0019] The composition according to the invention comprises at least 40.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition and has a pH greater than 8.0.

[0020] The pH of the composition according to the invention preferably varies from 8.5 to 10.0.

[0021] The alkaline pH is obtained through the presence of at least one organic base agent

[0022] The organic base can be chosen from an organic base such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, propanediamine-1,3.

[0023] According to a particularly preferred mode the composition comprises at least monoethanolamine (MEA).

[0024] The pH of the composition can be adjusted by at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one buffering agent such as a phosphate buffer or a carbonate buffer.

[0025] The quantity of water is at least 40.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it varies from 50 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 55 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0026] The water may be demineralized, or a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water. Keratin fiber bending process

[0027] One object of the present application is a method for curling keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, comprising at least the application to said keratin fibers of a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium#: a) at least 40.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition#; and b) at least 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of cysteine ​​and / or one of its salts#; and c) at least one organic base#; said composition having a pH greater than 8.0; said process not comprising an oxidation step by an oxidizing agent other than air.

[0028] According to a particular embodiment of said process, the application of the cysteine-based composition and / or one of its salts is followed by laying the treated keratin fibers for a period of 5 to 45 minutes. Preferably, after said laying, the keratin fibers are cleaned and then dried, for example with dry cotton at room temperature (20-25 °C).

[0029] According to a particularly preferred mode of this process, the cleaning of keratin fibers treated with the cysteine-based composition and / or one of its salts comprises the following steps: a) an initial removal of the aforementioned keratin fibers; then b) a bath of the keratin fibers removed in step a) in a micellar solution for a time ranging from 1 to 5 minutes; then c) a second removal of the keratin fibers.

[0030] The makeup remover used in step a) can be a bi-phase product such as the commercial product Respectissime® from La Roche Posay.

[0031] The micellar solution used in step b) may be such as the commercial product Garnier All in 1® Micellar Solution. It may be applied using a cotton ball soaked in said product.

[0032] The makeup remover used in step c) can be a micellar solution.

[0033] Makeup removers are preferably applied to keratin fibers using a cotton pad soaked in the product.

[0034] The keratin fiber drying step can be carried out with dry cotton or in an oven. Cosmetic additives

[0035] The composition may contain at least one conventional cosmetic additive chosen from among hydrophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, preservatives, surfactants, perfumes, antioxidants, moisturizing agents such as polyols like 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C2-C8 monoalcohols like ethanol, isopropanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0036] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0037] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more hydrophilic gelling agent(s).

[0038] For the purposes of this invention, a "hydrophilic gelling agent" is defined as a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of compositions according to the invention. More particularly, the function of these hydrophilic gelling agents is to structure the aqueous phase of the composition. The gelling agent is advantageously soluble in the aqueous phase of the composition. The gelling agent usable according to the invention can, in particular, be characterized by its ability to form in water, beyond a certain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology ([>1 = 1 Hz) by a yield stress rc of at least 10 Pa. This concentration C* can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling agent considered.

[0039] Hydrophilic gelling agents are preferably chosen from non-ionic polysaccharides.

[0040] Non-ionic polysaccharides are carbohydrate macromolecules formed by the chaining of a large number of hydrophilic elementary sugars (oses) linked together by O-osidic bonds.

[0041] They can be chosen from native polysaccharides, modified polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

[0042] The term “modified polysaccharide” means any polysaccharide that is modified by chemical or enzymatic means and that comprises at least one functional group.

[0043] The functional groups can be hydrocarbon groups (consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms) such as alkyl, alkenyl, aryl (i.e., phenyl) or aralkyl (i.e., benzyl) groups. The hydrocarbon groups can be unsubstituted, for example consisting of a simple alkyl chain, or substituted by groups such as aromatic groups such as aryl (i.e., phenyl) or aralkyl (i.e., benzyl) groups, or polar groups such as hydroxyl groups.

[0044] The non-ionic polysaccharides, modified or unmodified, suitable for the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans, and mannans, or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose. They may be starchy, such as native or modified starches. The non-starchy polysaccharides may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae; polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular cellulose and its derivatives or fructose; heterogeneous polysaccharides such as galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives; and mixtures thereof.In particular, polysaccharides may be selected from fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran, celluloses and their derivatives, especially methyl celluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, agars, Karaya gums (acid about 40%), locust bean gums, guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, especially hydroxypropyl guar, microbial biopolysaccharide gums, especially scleroglucan gums. They are chosen in particular from among the . celluloses such as cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses; guar gums, especially modified ones such as hydroxypropyl guar, agarose; pullulanes, inulins, starches.

[0045] Preferably, cellulosic compounds, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, will be used.

[0046] The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) are preferably present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, better from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Surfactants

[0047] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more surfactant(s) having an HLB greater than or equal to 8.0.

[0048] For the purposes of the present invention, a surfactant is understood to be an amphiphilic chemical compound, that is, one having in its structure two parts of different polarities. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), and the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic and lipophilic parts in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in "The HLB System: A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection" (published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method.

[0049] Surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8.0 may be selected from anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

[0050] Anionic surfactant is understood to mean any negatively charged amphiphilic molecule.

[0051] Non-ionic surfactant means any neutral amphiphilic molecule, namely not negatively or positively charged.

[0052] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than or equal to 8.0 is / are present in a concentration ranging from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better from 4.5 to 15.0% by weight, even better from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, a) Anionic surfactants

[0053] The anionic surfactant(s) with an HLB greater than or equal to 8.0 according to the invention is / are chosen, preferably from: i. C12-C20 mono-alkyl phosphates; ii. alkyl sulfates, and in particular alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamido ethers sulfates, iii. alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; iv. alkylsulonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; v. alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates; vi. acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyl lactylates; vii. fatty acids having from 14 to less than 20 carbon atoms; viii. their mixtures.

[0054] Alkyl sulfates will be used more particularly, such as the one with the INCI name AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE, such as the commercial product EMPICOL AL 30 / FL3® sold by the company INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMICALS. b) Non-ionic surfactants

[0055] The non-ionic surfactant(s) of HLB greater than or equal to 8.0 according to the invention is (are) chosen, preferably from polyoxyalkylated, monoglycerolated and / or polyglycerolated surfactants.

[0056] For the purposes of the present invention, "polyoxyalkylene compound" means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least one chain comprising oxyalkylene motifs, in particular oxyethylene -(OCH2CH2)net / or oxypropylene -(OCH2CH2CH2)P motifs.

[0057] For the purposes of the present invention, "mono- or polyglycerol compound" means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure a glycerol group or a chain comprising glycerol motifs -(O-CH2-CHOH-CH2OH)m

[0058] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C greater than or equal to 8 correspond to the following formula (I) [Chem 1] (ALK-[C(O)]a-[O]b)cX (I) in which: - ALK is an alkyl group in C7-C23, preferably in Cl1-C21, more preferably in C15-C17, - a and b are integers ranging from 0 to 100, - c is an integer ranging from 1 to 100, in particular from 1 to 3, preferably equal to 1, a and b being preferably equal to 0, - X is a (poly)oxyalkylene group, possibly substituted and / or terminated by a hydroxyl group, X preferably being an oxyethylene group (CH2CH2O)n or (OCH2CH2)n in which n is an integer greater than or equal to 1, for example ranging from 1 to 200, preferably said (poly)oxyalkylene group being a polyethylene glycol or being the result of at least one substitution of a hydroxy group, preferably selected from (poly)glycerols.

[0059] Group X is preferably chosen from i) those of the following formula (II): [Chem 2] HO-(ALK-O)z-CH2-CH[(OALK)y-OH]-CH2-(O-ALK)x-(*) (II) in which: - Identical or different ALK representing an alkylene group in C1-C6, particularly in C1-C4, preferably ethylene, - x, y, z being an integer between 0 and 200, it being understood that x+y+z is not equal to 0, preferably x+y+z being inclusively between 1 and 150, in particular between 20 and 60; ii) those of the following formula (III) or (IV): [Chem 3] H-(ALK-O)x-(*) (III) Or [Chem 4] H-(O-ALK)x-(*) (IV) in which: - Identical or different ALK representing an alkylene group in C1-C6, particularly in C1-C4, preferably ethylene, - x is an integer other than 0 and preferably between 1 and 200.

[0060] Preferably X is a group H-(O-ALK)x-(*).

[0061] The non-ionic surfactant(s) with an HLB value at 25°C greater than or equal to 8, preferably greater than or equal to 10, is / are chosen from: - polyoxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxypropylened and possibly oxyethylened, which may contain from 20 to 200 oxyalkylene motifs such as PPG-50 Glyceryl Ether sold under the trade name Newpol GP-3000® and PPG-67 Glyceryl Ether sold under the trade name Newpol GP-4000® by Sanyo Chemical; PPG-24-Glycereth-24 sold under the trade name Nikkol SG-G2424® by Nikko Chemicals; - polyoxyalkylated alcohols, in particular polyoxyethylated and / or polyoxypropylated alcohols, which may contain from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, preferably from 20 to 100 oxyethylene units, in particular polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially C8-C24, and preferably C12-C18, such as Steareth-20 as the product BRU 78® marketed by the company CRODA, the Ceteareth-30 like the product Eumulgin B 3® sold by BASF, Oleth-30 like the product sold EUMULGIN O 30® by BASF; - polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters, in particular fatty acid esters, especially C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyethylene glycol (or PEG) which may include 20 to 200 oxyethylene motifs such as PEG-50 Stearate sold under the trade name Myrj S50® and PEG-40 Stearate marketed under the name Myrj S40 ® by the company CRODA; - fatty acid esters, particularly C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and (poly)oxyalkylated glycerol ethers, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, which may contain 20 to 200 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, such as PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate sold under the name Simulsol 220® by SEPPIC; PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate such as the product TAGAT S® sold by EVONIK, PEG-20 Glyceryl Oleate such as the product TAGAT O2V® sold by EVONIK, PEG-20 Glyceryl Laurate such as the product TAGAT L2® from EVONIK; - fatty acid esters, especially C8-C24, and preferably C16-C22, and polyjoxyalkylated sorbitol ethers, in particular oxyethylated and / or oxypropylated, which may contain from 20 to 200 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene motifs, such as Polysorbate-20 sold under the name Tween 20®, Polysorbate-21 sold under the name Tween 21®, Polysorbate-40 sold under the name Tween 40®, Polysorbate-60 sold under the name Tween 60® and Polysorbate-80 sold under the name TWEEN-80-LQ® by the company CRODA; - C12-C20 fatty acid esters and a polyglycerol comprising 3 to 12 glycerol groups, preferably 6 to 10 glycerol groups such as Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate as the product sold under the name Nikkol Hexaglyn 1-SV® by the company NIKKO CHEMICALS; Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate sold under the name Plurol Isostearique® by the company GATEFOSSE; Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate as the product sold under the name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-SVEX® and Polyglyceryl-10 Isostearate as the product sold under the name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-ISV® by the company NIKKO CHEMICALS, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate as the product sold under the name Dermofeel G 10 L® by the company Dr Straetmans, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate as the commercial product Nikkol Decaglyn 1-M® sold by the company NIKKO CHEMICALS, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate as the commercial product Nikkol Decaglyn 1-OV® sold by the company NIKKO CHEMICALS; - and their mixture(s).

[0062] A polyoxyalkylated alcohol will be used in particular, more particularly Oleth-30 such as the product sold EUMULGIN O 30® by BASF.

[0063] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of at least one anionic surfactant of HLB > 8.0 of the alkyl sulfate type and at least one non-ionic surfactant of HLB > 8.0 of the polyoxyalkylated alcohol type, in particular a mixture of AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE and OLETH-30. Fatty alcohol

[0064] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one fatty alcohol. A composition may therefore comprise a single fatty alcohol according to the invention or several distinct fatty alcohols.

[0065] If several distinct fatty alcohols are present, these can be added separately during the preparation of the composition, and their mixture can then be formed in situ. They can also be implemented in the form of a commercially available mixture in which the weight proportion and degree of purity of each of the fatty alcohols are controlled. In other words, the composition of these mixtures is faithfully reproducible, unlike mixtures of fatty alcohols generated via synthesis from raw materials derived from complex mixtures.

[0066] The fatty alcohol(s) is / are in particular chosen from linear or branched fatty alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, in C14-C30, preferably in C14-C24, and even better in C14-C20.

[0067] The fatty alcohol(s) is / are in particular chosen from linear and saturated fatty alcohols in C14-C30, preferably linear and saturated fatty alcohols in C14-C24, better linear and saturated fatty alcohols in C14-C20.

[0068] According to a particularly preferred mode, the fatty alcohol is in the form of a mixture of several different fatty alcohols, preferably a mixture of several linear and saturated fatty alcohols in C14-C30, better in C14-C24, even better in C14-C20.

[0069] Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is selected from cetyl alcohol (C16), stearic alcohol (C18), and mixtures thereof (also called cetearyl alcohol). Preferably, the fatty alcohol according to the invention is a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearic alcohol. Such a mixture is notably marketed under the name LANNETTE O OR / MB® by BASF.

[0070] According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol is solid at room temperature.

[0071] Fatty alcohol is present in the compositions of the invention in quantities ranging from 1.0 to 20.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0 to 15.0% by weight, and even more particularly from 3.0 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic applications

[0072] The composition used according to the invention may be an eyelash curling product such as a mascara.

[0073] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0074] Packaging and application assembly or kit

[0075] The present invention also relates to an assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition for coating keratinous materials, as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0076] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a makeup set comprising: i) an applicator capable of drawing a line around the eye ii) a composition according to the invention arranged inside a container.

[0077] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may, for example, be in the form of a tube.

[0078] Such an applicator can be attached to a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a closing position of said container and a makeup position.

[0079] Alternatively, such an applicator can be irreversibly mounted on said container. Examples of such applicators include felt-tip pens and brushes, which may be made of synthetic fibers.

[0080] It is understood that within the framework of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Throughout the application, the expression "includes a" or "comprises a" shall be understood as meaning "containing at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0082] It is understood that the following examples are given for illustrative purposes only and are in no way limiting the scope of protection conferred by this application.

[0083] Examples 1 and 2 (invention) and examples 1a and 2a (not part of the invention): Eyelash curling products

[0084] The following compositions were prepared:

[0085] [Tables 1] INCI UE Exl (invention) Ex la (excluding invention) Ex 2 (invention) Ex 2a (excluding invention) CYSTEINE 10.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 SODIUM HYDROXIDE qs pH 9.5 qs pH 9.5 ETHANOLAMINE qs pH 9.5 qs pH 9.5 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 2.0 2.0 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 AQUA qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 10.2 10.2 AMMONIUM LAURYL SU LFATE (EMPICOL AL 30 / FL3® -INNOSPEC ACTIVE CHEMI CALS) 2.4 (0.65 active ingredient) 2.4 (0.65 active ingredient) OLETH-30 (EUMULGIN O 30® - BASF) 1.8 1.8 Preparation protocol

[0086] The compositions of examples 1 to 4 were made using a Rayneri VMI Turbotest mixer equipped with a deflocculating rod, at a rotation speed of 3000 rpm for 1 minute.

[0087] Tests for measuring the curvature of keratin fiber

[0088] The formulas were applied to keratin fibers (human hair) at a ratio of 380 mg of formula to 8 mg of keratin fibers. The keratin fibers were then subjected to mechanical stress via a ramp with a radius of curvature of 5 mm and a tangent at the origin of 20°, for 30 minutes. The keratin fibers were then rinsed with water and re-subjected to the same mechanical stress (ramp with a radius of curvature of 5 mm and a tangent at the origin of 20°) for 30 minutes. The treated keratin fibers were then released from the mechanical stress and cleaned according to the following protocol: 1) cleansed using a cotton pad soaked in La Roche Posay Respectissime two-phase makeup remover then 2) immersed in a micellar solution bath for 2 minutes, then 3) makeup removed using a cotton pad soaked in Garnier® All-in-1 micellar water and 4) dried with a dry cotton ball for 15 minutes

[0089] The curvature is measured by measuring a height between the base and the tip of the fiber. A fiber with a height of 0 cm corresponds to a fiber that has not been shaped, while a fiber with a height close to 1 cm corresponds to a fiber that has been fully shaped. Results

[0090] [Tables2] Fiber curvature measurement Exl (invention) Ex 2 (invention) Ex 3 (not invention) Ex 4 (not invention) Height (cm) 0.9 0.9 0.7 0.6 Standard deviation 0.07 0.05 0.08 0.12

[0091] The results showed significantly that examples 1 and 2 of the invention comprising an organic base (monoethanolamine) made it possible to completely shape the fiber unlike their respective countertypes 1 and 2 comprising an inorganic base (sodium hydroxide).

Claims

Demands

1. A method for coating eyelashes, and more particularly for curling eyelashes, comprising applying to said keratin fibers a composition comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least 40.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; and b) at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of cysteine ​​and / or one of its salts; and c) at least monoethanolamine; d) at least one anionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8.0 selected from alkyl sulfates; and e) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB greater than or equal to 8.0 selected from polyoxyalkylated alcohols; said composition having a pH greater than 8.0; said method not comprising an oxidation step with an oxidizing agent other than 1 * Q1T*

2. 1 dll . Method according to claim 1, wherein the cysteine ​​is selected from L-cysteine, D-cysteine ​​or L,D-cysteine, and more particularly L-cysteine ​​or one of its salts.

3. A process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein cysteine ​​and / or one of the salts is present at a concentration of 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 5 to 15%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH varies from 8.5 to 10.

0.

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of water in the composition varies from 50 to 95% by weight, and more preferably from 55 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the application of the cysteine-based composition and / or one of its salts is followed by application of the eyelashes thus treated, for a time ranging from 5 to 45 minutes.

7. Method according to claim 6, wherein, after application, the eyelashes are cleaned and then dried, for example by means of a dry cotton at room temperature (20 °C).

8. A method according to claim 7, wherein the cleaning comprises the following steps: a) a first removal of eyelash makeup; then b) a bath of the eyelashes removed in step a) in a micellar solution for a time of 1 to 5 minutes; then c) a second removal of eyelash makeup.

9. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition contains at least one cosmetic additive selected from hydrophilic gelling agents, fatty alcohols, preservatives, surfactants, perfumes, antioxidants, moisturizing agents such as polyols, C2-C8 monoalcohols, and mixtures thereof.

10. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably selected from non-ionic polysaccharides, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.

11. A method according to claim 11, wherein in the composition, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) is / are present in a total content of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

12. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in the composition, the surfactant(s) of HLB greater than or equal to 8.0 are present in a content ranging from 3.5 to 20.0% by weight, more preferably from 4.0 to 20.0% by weight, better from 4.5% to 15.0% by weight, even better from 5.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a mixture of AMMONIUM LAURYL SULFATE and OLETH-30.

14. Assembly, or kit, for conditioning and applying a cosmetic eyelash coating composition comprising: - a conditioning device comprising the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims; - an applicator of said composition.