CLEANSING AND / OR MAKE-UP REMOVAL COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS

Abstract

CLEANSING AND / OR MAKE-UP REMOVER COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleansing and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one glycolipid; (ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and (iii) at least one amphoteric surfactant. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and / or removing makeup from keratinous materials, particularly from the skin, comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratinous materials, particularly the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR CLEANING AND / OR REMOVING MAKE-UP FROM KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials using said composition. STATE OF THE ART

[0002] Skin cleansing or removing make-up from the skin is very important for skin care. In particular, it is very important for consumers of make-up products to have an effective make-up remover available. It must be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as dirt, excess sebum, remains of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, especially waterproof products, accumulate in the folds of the skin, can clog the pores of the skin and lead to the appearance of spots.

[0003] Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removing products are known, for example, rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams and lotions.

[0004] Rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing or makeup-removing action due to the oils present in these formulations. These oils help dissolve greasy residues and disperse makeup pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated.

[0005] However, some of them have the disadvantage of not foaming and not giving a good smooth skin texture upon application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic point of view.

[0006] Furthermore, some of them give the skin a smooth feeling, but do not have good makeup removal capacity.

[0007] Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, which are stable and have an improved foam volume, can provide good make-up removing capacity and deliver a good skin feel, in particular a smooth texture. Summary of the invention

[0008] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the present invention.

[0009] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one glycolipid; ii. at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and iii. at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0010] The composition according to the present invention can produce a large volume of foam and provide good makeup removal capacity upon application, and impart a smooth and moisturizing feeling to keratinous materials, particularly the skin, after application.

[0011] According to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising applying to the keratinous materials, in particular to the skin, the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing said composition after an optional period of time.

[0012] Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will be set forth in the following description and, in part, will be obvious from the description, or may be learned by practice of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0013] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values ​​are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "ranging from... to...".

[0014] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous material" is understood to cover human skin and mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is more particularly considered according to the present invention.

[0015] Furthermore, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

[0016] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features, as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

[0017] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically cited features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

[0018] According to one aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: i. at least one glycolipid; ii. at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and iii. at least one amphoteric surfactant. Glycolipids

[0019] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one glycolipid.

[0020] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more carbohydrate compounds are linked.

[0021] The inventors discovered that glycolipids can act as mild surfactants, in order to care for the skin and deliver a non-dry and smooth skin finish. And they also act as a foaming enhancer.

[0022] Preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, and mixtures thereof.

[0023] More preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids and their mixtures.

[0024] Even more preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids. Glucolipids:

[0025] The (a) glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (I): P

[0026] in which:

[0027] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0028] - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and

[0029] - q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0030] Glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.

[0031] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. Glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol mixture. Sophorolipids

[0032] The glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (II):

[0033] in which:

[0034] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0035] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon group hydroxylated, having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,

[0036] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon group hydroxylated, having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,

[0037] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in the R5 and R6 groups does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

[0038] The sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy OH group, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (HD

[0039] in which:

[0040] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,

[0041] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0042] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0043] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, J. F. T. Spencer and PA. J. Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used as mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0044] It is possible to use as sophorolipid, for example, the product sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF. Trehalolipids

[0045] The glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (IV): ! £>0 ! ! * * COOR

[0046] in which:

[0047] - R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0048] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209. Cellobiose lipids

[0049] The glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (V): R12

[0050] in which:

[0051] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0052] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical hydroxylated, having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

[0053] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and

[0054] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical hydroxylated, having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0055] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.

[0056] Rhamnolipids:

[0057] Glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.

[0058] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0059] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxy] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0060] More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): n

[0061] in which:

[0062] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0063] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0064] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated hydrocarbon groups.

[0065] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) concerns mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it concerns di-rhamnolipids.

[0066] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0067] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0068] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0069] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0070] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated hydrocarbon group, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0071] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments can be in the alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in the alpha configuration.

[0072] In the context of the present invention,

[0073] - the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0074] - the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids being preferably in the form of the R enantiomers, and

[0075] - the term “alkyl” radical designates a saturated, linear or aliphatic group branched; for example, a C1-C2o alkyl group having a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.

[0076] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0077] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0078] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0079] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3, o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0080] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0081] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0082] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0083] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII): O n

[0084] in which:

[0085] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,

[0086] - n denotes an integer equal to 1,

[0087] - Ri is a radical (CH2)P-CH3, p being an integer varying from 1 to 23, of preference from 4 to 12,

[0088] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of preference from 4 to 12,

[0089] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0090] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table A below.

[0091]

[0092]

[0093]

[0094]

[0095]

[0096]

[0097] The formula di-RL-CXCY is a writing variant to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4. [Table 1] Table A CaïBpOSéï Dï-RL-CXCY P q I | 4 3 «SRL-C8CW 4 6 ""“y"”" 4 4 aæ.-ëwcw 6 § 5 ÆRLÆWCia 6 s 5 &RL-C12C10 8 g 7 | 4SLC12C1J 8 s S àsPl -C'X U 8 10 9 10 s là diÜHclà io 10 n 10 12 12 diRL-ClSÇU 12 w 13 dsRL-C16C16 12 12 According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers. Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0098] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:

[0099] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0100] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0101] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0102] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:

[0103] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,

[0104] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and

[0105] - from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5 % to 10% by weight, of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids.

[0106] As specified above, rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0107] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H. P. Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R. M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0108] The rhamnolipid sold under the name RHEANCE® ONE by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipid.

[0109] Advantageously, the glycolipid is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 7% by weight. weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl sulfosuccinates

[0110] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate.

[0111] As used herein, alkyl sulfosuccinates include mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates and di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.

[0112] Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinates in the composition according to the present invention are chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Different or identical alkyl radicals may be present in a di-alkyl sulfosuccinate molecule, with identical ones being preferred. The alkyl radicals may be linear, branched or cyclic, and substituted or unsubstituted. Preferably, the alkyl radicals are branched.

[0113] The sulfosuccinates may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts such as amino alcohol salts, or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.

[0114] Des exemples non limitatifs de di-alkyl sulfosuccinates sont le diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dinonyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diisononyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dioctyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dihexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dicapryl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le didécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diundécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dilauryl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dicococoyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le ditridécyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium, le diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dinonyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diisononyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dioctyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dihexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dicapryl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le didécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diundécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium,le dilauryl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dicocoyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le ditridécyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate d'ammonium, le dicyclohexyl sulfosuccinate d’ammonium, le diéthylhexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dinonyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diisononyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dioctyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diheptyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dihexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dicapryl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le didécyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diundécyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dilauryl sulfosuccinate , de potassium, le dicocoyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le ditridécyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le dipropylheptyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diyclohexyl sulfosuccinate de potassium, le diéthyhexyl sulfosuccinate de sodium étant tout particulièrement préféré.

[0115] Non-limiting examples of mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates are diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium cetyl sulfosuccinate, disodium coco-sulfosuccinate, disodium isodecyl sulfosuccinate, disodium isostearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinate, disodium stearyl sulfosuccinate, disodium tridecyl sulfosuccinate, with disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate being most preferred.

[0116] Preferably, the sulfosuccinates are chosen from alkali metal salts, and more preferably chosen from the sodium salt, including the disodium salts for the mono-alkyl sulfosuccinates and the sodium salts for the di-alkyl sulfosuccinates.

[0117] Preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is chosen from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is chosen from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions.

[0118] More preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is chosen from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is chosen from alkali metal cations.

[0119] More preferably still, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is chosen from disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, and one of their mixtures.

[0120] Advantageously, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactant

[0121] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric surfactant.

[0122] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives.

[0123] The amphoteric surfactant selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives contains at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group, in wherein the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a straight or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0124] Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C2o alkyl)betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)betaines and (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C2-C8 alkyl)sulfobetaines.

[0125] Among the (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, mention may be made of behenylbetaine, cetylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, decylbetaine. Among the alkylbetaines, cocoylbetaine is preferred, for example the products sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Mirataine® BB / FLA.

[0126] Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives which may be used, mention may also be made of the compounds of formulae (A) and (B) below:

[0127] Ra-CON(Z)CH2 (CH2)m-N+(Rb)(Rc)(CH2COO) (A)

[0128] in which:

[0129] - Ra represents a C7-Ci9 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,

[0130] - Rb represents a CrC4 alkyl group or [3-hydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl),

[0131] - Rc represents a CrC4 alkyl or carboxy(CrC4 alkyl) group;

[0132] - m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

[0133] - Z represents a hydrogen or a CrC4 alkyl group, hydroxy(CrC4 alkyl) or carboxy(C1-C4 alkyl);

[0134] Ra-CON(Z)CH2 (CH2)mN(B)(B') (B)

[0135] in which:

[0136] - B represents -CH2CH2OX', X' representing -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen,

[0137] - B' represents -(CH2)Z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, and Y' representing -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH-SO3Z',

[0138] - m is equal to 0, 1 or 2,

[0139] - Z represents a hydrogen or a CrC4 alkyl group, hydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl) or carboxy(C1-C4 alkyl),

[0140] - Z' represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine, and preferably from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane,

[0141] - Ra represents a C7-C[9] alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid RaCOOH present preferably in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil.

[0142] Compounds corresponding to formula (A) are preferred.

[0143] Among the compounds corresponding to formula (A), mention may be made of cocamidopropylbetaine, for example the product sold under the trade name Dehyton PK 45 by Cognis (BASF).

[0144] Compounds of formula (C) can also be used:

[0145] Ra-NH-CH(Y")-(CH2)nC(O)-NH-(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (C)

[0146] in which:

[0147] - Ra represents a C7-C[9] alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-C(O)OH preferably present in hydrolyzed linseed oil or coconut oil;

[0148] - Y" represents the group -C(O)OH, -C(O)OZ", -CH2-CH(OH)-SO3H or the group - CH2-CH(OH)-SO3-Z", Z" representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;

[0149] - Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a C1-C4 alkyl group, hydroxy(C1-C4 alkyl) or carboxy(C1-C4 alkyl); and

[0150] - n and n' designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

[0151] Among the compounds corresponding to formula (C), we may mention in particular: compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide, such as that sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.

[0152] Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C1-C6 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof.

[0153] More preferably, the amphoteric surfactant is chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, or one of their mixtures.

[0154] Advantageously, the amphoteric surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, most preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils

[0155] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises an oil.

[0156] As used herein, the term "oil" means a fatty compound or fatty substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature. ambient (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As an oil, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination.

[0157] The oil can be chosen from vegetable oils, synthetic oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0158] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

[0159] Examples of synthetic oils include ester oils, ether oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of linear or branched C1-C26, preferably C10-C20, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoacids or polyacids, and linear or branched C1-C26, preferably C2-C10, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

[0161] Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

[0162] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of alkyl palmitates such as ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

[0163] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

[0164] These esters may be, for example, C1-C26, preferably C1-C10, alkyl oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.

[0165] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil chosen from vegetable oils, ester oils, and combinations thereof.

[0166] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil chosen from vegetable oils, C2-Ci0 alkyl palmitates, C2-Ci0 alkyl myristates, and combinations thereof.

[0167] More preferably still, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil chosen from sunflower oil, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, and combinations thereof.

[0168] Advantageously, the oil is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount of at least 10% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 40% by weight to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water

[0169] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises water.

[0170] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 85% by weight, preferably from 10% by weight to 75% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional ingredients

[0171] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those conventionally used in skin care cleansers.

[0172] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, for example, one or more of the following additives: pH correcting agents; additional surfactants; antibacterial agents, perfumes; and thickeners.

[0173] Those skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

[0174] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 1% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids; ii. from 1% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate selected from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations; and iii. from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant chosen from (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C1-C6 alkyl)betaines. Process and use

[0175] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the keratinous materials.

[0176] Preferably, the composition is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0177] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of a multiple emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0178] It can be used as a daily facial cleanser and / or as a makeup remover.

[0179] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product. Thus, such a composition may be applied to the skin (i.e., of the face and / or body), and then rinsed off with running water.

[0180] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or a cotton ball, and can be removed by rinsing with water.

[0181] Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic method for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials, in particular to the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and the rinsing of said composition after an optional period of time. EXAMPLES

[0182] The following examples are given for the purpose of illustration of the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope.

[0183] The main raw materials used, their trade names and their suppliers have been listed in Table 1.

[0184] [Table 2]

[0185] [Tables 1] INCI name Trade name Supplier Glycolipids (Glycolipids) RHEANCE® One EVONIK GOLDSCH MIDT Diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuc cinate (Diethylhexyl sulfosuc cinate de sodium) TEGO® Sulfosuccinate DO 75 EVONIK GOLDSCH MIDT Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil (Helianthus annuus (sunflower) oil) SUNFLOWER OIL F RANCE REFINED HUILERIES DE LAP ALISSE Cocamidopropyl betaine (Coc amidopropyl betaine) Dehyton® PK 45 BASF Inventive Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4

[0186] The compositions of inventive example (E1.) 1 and comparative examples (EC.) 1 to 4 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents were expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition):

[0187] [Table 3]

[0188] [Tables2] El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Rhamnolipids 2.2 0 2.2 2.2 2.2 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate (Diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate sodium) 3.5 3.5 0 3.5 0 Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate (Laureth sulfosuccinate disodium) 0 0 0 0 3.5 Cocamidopropyl Betaine (Cocam idopropyl betaine) 3.0 3.0 3.0 0 3.0 Ethylhexyl Palmitate 25 25 25 25 25 Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil 20 20 20 20 20 Isopropyl Myristate (Myristate isopropyl) 5 5 5 5 5 Water QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

[0189] The composition of Inventive Example 1 represents the composition of the present invention.

[0190] The composition of Comparative Example 1 does not include glycolipid.

[0191] The composition of Comparative Example 2 does not include alkyl sulfosuccinate.

[0192] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not include an amphoteric surfactant.

[0193] The composition of Comparative Example 4 comprises disodium laureth sulfosuccinate in place of an alkyl sulfosuccinate. Preparation process

[0194] The compositions were prepared as follows.

[0195] All raw materials were mixed and made up to 100% by weight with water to obtain a mixture. Then, the mixture was heated to 60°C with stirring, and then cooled to 300°C. Assessment

[0196] The stability of each composition prepared above, the foam volume, the makeup removal capacity and the skin sensation thus delivered were evaluated. Stability

[0197] The stability of each of the above compositions was evaluated immediately after their preparation and was summarized in Table 3.

[0198] In the absence of water separation, the composition is evaluated as "homogeneous", otherwise as "separated". Here, the term "separation" means that the composition system is not stable, the aqueous phase being at least partially separated from the composition.

[0199] [Table 4]

[0200] [Tables3] El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Stability Homogeneous Homogeneous Separate Homogeneous Separate

[0201] It can be seen from Table 3 that the composition according to the present invention is stable and is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

[0202] Foam volume, makeup removal capacity and skin feel

[0203] The compositions obtained were also evaluated by 10 trained volunteers in terms of foam volume, makeup removal capacity and skin sensation, in particular smooth skin texture, as follows.

[0204] A waterproof mascara (Maybelline Sky High) was applied to one forearm and dried for 60 minutes.

[0205] 1 g of each composition of ELI and EC.l to 4 was deposited on hands wet, then rubbed for 30 cycles, then applied over the makeup. Then, 30 rubbing cycles were performed to melt the makeup. Then, tap water was added to emulsify and lather to assess the foam volume. The forearm was compared before and after application of each composition of ELI and EC.l at 4 to assess the makeup removal capacity. Then, the smooth texture of the skin was assessed 2 minutes after towel drying.

[0206] Scores in a range of 0 to 4 were assigned for foam volume, and scores in a range of 0 to 5 were assigned for makeup removal ability and skin smoothness according to the following standards. Foam volume

[0207] >3, <4: More than half a palm

[0208] >2, <3: More bubbles but less than half a palm

[0209] >1, <2: Some bubbles present

[0210] >0, <1: No foam Makeup removal capacity

[0211] >4, <5: Almost all makeup removed

[0212] >3, <4: Some makeup removed, but some makeup remains

[0213] >2, <3: Half of the makeup removed

[0214] >1, <2: Slightly removed

[0215] >0, <1: Not removed Skin sensation

[0216] >4, <5: Very smooth and moisturized

[0217] >3, <4: Smooth

[0218] >2, <3: Slightly rough

[0219] >1, <2: Rough

[0220] >0, <1: Dry, tight, barrier sensation.

[0221] Scores for foam volume, makeup removal ability, and skin smoothness were assigned by the 10 volunteers, averaged and rounded, and then summarized in Table 4.

[0222] [Table 5]

[0223] [Tables4] El. 1 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Foam volume 4 4 ​​N / A 2 N / A Makeup removal capacity 5 4 N / A 5 N / A Smooth skin texture 5 4 N / A 5 N / A

[0224] NA: not assessed.

[0225] It can be seen from Table 4 that the composition according to the present invention can lead to a large volume of foam, provide good makeup removal capacity and deliver a very hydrated and smooth feeling to the skin.

Claims

1.

2. Claims Composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one glycolipid; (ii) at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate; and (iii) at least one amphoteric surfactant. Composition according to claim 1, in which the glycolipid is chosen from mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (VI):

3. in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and - R1 and R2 each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated hydrocarbon groups. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the glycolipid is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 7% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% by weight to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the alkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from mono- or di-alkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion to the sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations and ammonium ions; preferably, the alkyl sulfosuccinate is selected from disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, sodium diethylhexyl sulfosuccinate, and a mixture thereof.

5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the alkyl sulfosuccinate is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 7% by weight, and even more preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives; preferably selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)betaines, (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C1-C6 alkyl)betaines, and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from cocamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine, and a mixture thereof.

7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1% by weight to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 2% by weight to 8% by weight, most preferably from 2% by weight to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 1% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids; (ii) from 1% by weight to 7% by weight of at least one alkyl sulfosuccinate chosen from dialkyl sulfosuccinates in which the alkyl radicals have 6 to 14 carbon atoms and the counterion at sulfonic acid group is selected from alkali metal cations; and (iii) from 2% by weight to 8% by weight of at least one amphoteric surfactant selected from (C8-C20 alkyl)amido(C1-C6 alkyl)betaines.

9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the composition is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, more preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

10. A non-therapeutic process for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising applying to the keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, and rinsing said composition after an optional period of time.