CLEANSING AND / OR MAKE-UP REMOVAL COMPOSITION FOR KERATINOUS MATERIALS
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-05-27
- Publication Date
- 2026-05-08
AI Technical Summary
Existing makeup removal products either lack sufficient foaming capacity or do not provide a smooth skin texture, and there is a need for environmentally friendly, sustainable compositions that effectively clean and remove makeup while being gentle on the skin.
A composition comprising at least one glycolipid, at least 2% by weight of an amino acid surfactant, and at least one C10-C28 (poly)oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate, which provides good foaming volume and a smooth skin feel, suitable for daily use as a facial cleanser or makeup remover.
The composition achieves effective makeup removal with a good foaming volume, smooth skin texture, and rapid rinsing, while being environmentally friendly and gentle on the skin.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: COMPOSITION FOR CLEANING AND / OR REMOVING MAKE-UP FROM KERATINOUS MATERIALS Technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials using said composition. STATE OF THE ART
[0002] Skin cleansing or removing makeup from the skin is very important for skin care. It should be as effective as possible because oily residues, such as excess sebum, remnants of cosmetic products used daily and makeup products, especially waterproof ones, accumulate in the folds of the skin, can clog the pores of the skin and lead to the appearance of spots.
[0003] Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removing products are known, for example, rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams and lotions.
[0004] Rinse-off anhydrous oils and gels have a cleansing or makeup-removing action due to the oils present in these formulations. These oils help dissolve greasy residues and disperse makeup pigments. These products are effective and well tolerated.
[0005] However, some of them have the disadvantage of not foaming and not giving a good smooth skin texture upon application, which is disadvantageous from a cosmetic point of view.
[0006] Furthermore, foaming creams, lotions and gels have a cleansing or make-up removing action thanks to surfactants, which suspend oily residues on the face. They are effective and pleasant to use, because they foam and are easy to remove.
[0007] Therefore, there is a need to formulate compositions, preferably for cleaning or removing make-up from keratinous materials, having good foaming capacity, while providing a good skin feel, in particular a smooth skin texture.
[0008] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, which are designed and developed with environmental issues in mind, is becoming a major objective in an effort to address global challenges.
[0009] It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions to address these environmental concerns.
[0010] In this context, it is important to develop new ingredients and / or active ingredients that are environmentally friendly, in particular of natural origin, more specifically bio-sourced and / or derived from sustainable non-petrochemical sources, and / or biodegradable and / or obtained by extraction processes requiring low energy and water consumption in order to provide compositions that reduce the environmental impact of the products. Summary of the invention
[0011] The inventors have discovered that such a need can be satisfied by the present invention.
[0012] Thus, according to one aspect, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: i. at least one glycolipid; ii. at least 2% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and iii. at least one C10-C28 (poly)oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate.
[0013] The composition according to the present invention can exhibit a good foaming volume during application.
[0014] The composition according to the present invention further provides a good skin feel (in particular a feeling of hydrated and smooth skin) after application. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is a crystallized system in the form of a paste, cream or textured lotion.
[0015] It can be used as a daily facial cleanser and / or as a makeup remover.
[0016] Preferably, the composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product. In addition, the composition of the present invention may provide a rapid rinsing speed. Thus, such a composition may be applied to the skin (i.e., face and / or body) and then rinsed off with running water.
[0017] According to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising applying to the keratinous materials, in particular to the skin, the composition according to the present invention, and rinsing said composition after an optional period of time.
[0018] Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0019] In the following and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "ranging from... to...".
[0020] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "keratinous material" is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is particularly considered according to the present invention.
[0021] Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
[0022] Throughout this application, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.
[0023] As used herein, the use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").
[0024] According to one aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises: i. at least one glycolipid; ii. at least 2% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and iii. at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate. Glycolipids
[0025] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one glycolipid.
[0026] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are attached.
[0027] The inventors discovered that glycolipids can act as mild surfactants, in order to care for the skin and deliver a non-dry and smooth skin finish. And they also act as a foaming enhancer.
[0028] Preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, sophorolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, and mixtures thereof.
[0029] More preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids and their mixtures.
[0030] Even more preferably, the glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids. Glucolipids:
[0031] The (a) glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (I):
[0032] in which:
[0033] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
[0034] - p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 4, and
[0035] - q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.
[0036] Glucolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MM1.
[0037] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by M. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. Glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol mixture. Sophorolipids
[0038] The glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (II):
[0039] in which:
[0040] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,
[0041] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon group hydroxylated, containing from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group,
[0042] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon group hydroxylated, having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms,
[0043] provided that the total number of carbon atoms in the R5 and R6 groups does not does not exceed 20 and is preferably 14 to 18.
[0044] The sophorolipids may be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy OH group, or in its lactone form, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III):
[0045] in which:
[0046] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,
[0047] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.
[0048] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example, Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.
[0049] Suitable fermentation methods are reviewed in A.P. Tulloch, J.F.T. Spencer and P.A.J. Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6(4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used as mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.
[0050] It is possible to use as sophorolipid, for example the product sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and the product sold under the name BioToLife by BASF. Trehalolipids
[0051] The glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (IV): ! co î COOH
[0052] in which:
[0053] - R9, R10 and R11 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.
[0054] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation methods are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209. Cellobiose lipids
[0055] The glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose moiety and may be represented by the general formula (V): i
[0056] in which:
[0057] - R1 represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,
[0058] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon radical hydroxylated, having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,
[0059] - R13 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group; and
[0060] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated, hydroxylated or unhydroxylated hydrocarbon group hydroxylated, having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0061] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by cells of fungi of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.
[0062] Rhamnolipids;
[0063] The glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.
[0064] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.
[0065] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two fragments rhamnose (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxy] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.
[0066] More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI):
[0068] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,
[0069] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and
[0070] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon groups identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated hydrocarbon groups.
[0071] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) concerns mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it concerns di-rhamnolipids.
[0072] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.
[0073] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
[0074] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
[0075] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and
[0076] - Ri and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon groups identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, and saturated or unsaturated, preferably a mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated hydrocarbon group, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.
[0077] The glycosidic bond between the two rhamnose fragments may be of alpha or beta configuration and is preferably of alpha configuration.
[0078] In the context of the present invention,
[0079] - the salts of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.
[0080] - the solvated forms of the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of the fatty acids being preferably in the form of the R enantiomers, and
[0081] - the term “alkyl” radical designates a saturated, linear or aliphatic group branched; for example, a C1-C2o alkyl group having a straight or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.
[0082] The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:
[0083] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;
[0084] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and
[0085] - Ri and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl, tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)OCH3, o denoting an integer ranging from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.
[0086] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.
[0087] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.
[0088] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.
[0089] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of the following formula (VII):
[0090] in which:
[0091] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,
[0092] - n denotes an integer equal to 1,
[0093] - Ri is a radical (CH2)P-CH3, p being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of preference from 4 to 12,
[0094] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of preference from 4 to 12,
[0095] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.
[0096] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table A below.
[0097] The formula di-RL-CXCY is a writing variant in order to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals Ri and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.
[0098] [Table 1] Table A Compounds DCRL-CXCY P « 1 4 4 2 ______ 4 s _........... ................................ ........6......... .......4....... 4 6 6 5 OL-œcu § S 6 diKL-CizClO 8 6 ÆRL-C12C12 SS 8 dsRL-*'lJC'4 S w £ asRL Cl IC 2 io s ni 10 w 11 10 12 12 | diRL-ClSCH 12 10 13 12 12
[0100] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvates and optical isomers.
[0101] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids.
[0102] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.
[0103] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.
[0104] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:
[0105] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;
[0106] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and
[0107] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)OCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl; preferably, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.
[0108] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or of formula (VII) chosen from:
[0109] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids,
[0110] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a di- rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, relative to the total weight of rhamnolipids, and
[0111] - from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 3% to 12% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight of a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, Ri represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids.
[0112] As specified above, rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to those skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.
[0113] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and H. P. Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. R. M. Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.
[0114] The rhamnolipid sold under the name RHEANCE® ONE by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipid.
[0115] Advantageously, the glycolipid is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.03% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.8% by weight to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino acid surfactants
[0116] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least 2% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0117] Preferably, the amino acid surfactant is chosen from (C8-C28) acyl-amino surfactants.
[0118] More preferably, the amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (A):
[0119] in which:
[0120] - Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, containing 7 to 21 carbon atoms,
[0121] - X is hydrogen or a methyl group,
[0122] - n is 0 yes;
[0123] - Y is chosen from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3 , -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHCH(NH2)2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and
[0124] - M is a salt-forming cation in which C(O)O is the counter-anion, preferably chosen from sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine and their mixture.
[0125] In certain preferred embodiments, in formula (A):
[0126] - Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group,
[0127] - X is hydrogen or methyl,
[0128] -nvautO,
[0129] - Y is chosen from hydrogen, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and
[0130] - M is a salt-forming cation in which C(O)O is the counter-anion, preferably chosen from sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine, and their mixture.
[0131] Examples of amino acid surfactants include the salt of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine and any mixture thereof.
[0132] Mention may be made of amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, stearoyl glutamate de potassium, undécylénoyl glutamate de potassium, capryloyl glutamate de sodium, cocoyl glutamate de sodium, lauroyl glutamate de sodium, myristoyl glutamate de sodium, olivoyl glutamate de sodium, palmitoyl glutamate de sodium, stéaroyl glutamate de sodium, undécylénoyl glutamate de sodium, [3-alaninate de cocoyl méthyle, [3-alaninate de lauroyle, [3-alaninate de lauroyl méthyle, [3-alaninate de myristoyle, lauroyl méthyl [3-alaninate de potassium, cocoyl alaninate de sodium, cocoyl méthyl [3-alaninate de sodium et myristoyl méthyl [3-alaninate palmitoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de sodium, cocoyl glycinate de sodium, myristoyl glycinate de sodium, lauroyl glycinate de potassium, cocoyl glycinate de potassium, lauroyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de potassium, cocoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate de sodium, myristoyl sarcosinate de sodium, oléoyl sarcosinate de sodium, palmitoyl sarcosinate de sodium, lauroyl sarcosinate d'ammonium,sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
[0133] Reference may be made to the commercially available amino acid surfactant, for example, acyl sarcosinates, for example sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by the company Nikkol or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by the company Nikkol; to alaninates, for example sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by the company Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone ALE® by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine sold under the name Alanone Alta® by the company Kawaken;to N-acylglutamates, for example triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate sold under the name Acylglutamate LT-12® by the company Ajinomoto; to glycinates, for example sodium N-cocoyl glycinate sold under the name Amilite GCS-12® by the company Ajinomoto; to aspartates, for example the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate, sold under the name Asparack® by the company Mitsubishi; to citrates, and any mixture thereof.
[0134] Preferably, the amino acid surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glycinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glycinate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA cocoyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof.
[0135] Advantageously, the amino acid surfactant is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 2.5% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 4% by weight to 20% by weight, most preferably from 5% by weight to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinates (polyoxyalkylenated
[0137] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate.
[0138] Preferably, the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate comprises from 1 to 50 alkylene oxide units, preferably ethylene oxide units.
[0139] More preferably, the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is represented by the following formula (B):
[0140] CH3-(CH2)n-(O-CH2-CH2)mO-CO-CH2-CH(SO3M)-CO-OM' (B)
[0141] in which:
[0142] - n denotes an integer ranging from 9 to 27, preferably from 9 to 21, plus preferably from 11 to 17;
[0143] - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 50, preferably from 1 to 25, plus preferably from 1 to 10;
[0144] M and M' denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from an amine.
[0145] Preferably, m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 8, even more preferably from 1 to 6.
[0146] When the sulfosuccinates are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, and preferably sodium and ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt. In this case, one or other of the sulfonate functions, or both, may be in salt form.
[0147] According to a preferable embodiment of the invention, the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is in salt form.
[0148] Preferably, the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is chosen from alkali metal salts, and is more preferably a salt of sodium. More preferably still, the C10-C28 (poly)oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is chosen from sodium disalts.
[0149] Preferably, the composition comprises disodium laureth sulfosuccinate. More preferably, the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.
[0150] Advantageously, the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.03% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.8% by weight to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Water
[0151] Preferably, the composition of the present invention further comprises water.
[0152] Advantageously, water is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 35% by weight to 95% by weight, preferably from 40% by weight to 80% by weight, more preferably from 45% by weight to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is oil-free.
[0154] The term "oil" refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature. ambient (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013*105Pa).
[0155] As used herein, the term "oil-free" indicates that the amount of oil in the composition of the present invention is less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition of the present invention. Additional ingredients
[0156] The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, chosen from those conventionally used in skin care cleansers.
[0157] The composition according to the present invention may comprise, for example, one or more of the following additives: pH correcting agents (for example: citric acid); additional surfactants; antibacterial agents, perfumes; and thickeners.
[0158] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a pH correcting agent, so that the composition has a pH value of 4.0 to 7.5, preferably 4.5 to 7.0, more preferably 5.0 to 6.5.
[0159] Those skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of operations routinely, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not negatively affected by the additional ingredients.
[0160] According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably for caring for and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: i. from 0.8% by weight to 2.5% by weight of at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids; ii. from 5% by weight to 18% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant selected from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glycinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glycinate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA cocoyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof; and iii. from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate represented by the following formula (B):
[0161] CH3-(CH2)n-(O-CH2-CH2)mO-CO-CH2-CH(SO3M)-CO-OM' (B)
[0162] in which:
[0163] - n denotes an integer ranging from 9 to 27, preferably from 9 to 21, plus preferably from 11 to 17;
[0164] - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 50, preferably from 1 to 25, plus preferably from 1 to 10, even more preferably from 1 to 8, most preferably from 1 to 6,
[0165] - M and M' denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a alkali or alkaline earth metal, an ammonium group, or a cation derived from an amine. Process and use
[0166] The composition according to the present invention can be used in a process of cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, by being applied to the keratinous materials.
[0167] The composition according to the present invention has a good foaming volume during application.
[0168] The composition according to the present invention further provides a good skin feel (i.e. a feeling of hydrated and smooth skin) after application.
[0169] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention can provide a rapid rinse rate.
[0170] In certain preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention does not present a problem of sagging.
[0171] By the expression "sagging problem" is meant that if the viscosity of the composition is less than 1000 mPa.s, it will be considered to have a sagging problem.
[0172] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing uniform distribution, in particular using a finger or a cotton ball, and can be removed by rinsing with water.
[0173] Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising the application to the keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, of the composition according to the present invention, and the rinsing of said composition after an optional period of time. EXAMPLES
[0174]
[0175]
[0176]
[0177]
[0178]
[0179]
[0180]
[0181] The following examples are given for the purpose of illustrating the present invention and should not be construed as limiting the scope. The main raw materials used, their trade names and suppliers have been listed in Table 1. [Table 2] Painting#! INCI Name Trade Name Supplier Glycolipids (Glycolipids) RHEANCE® ONE EVONIK GOLDSC HMIDT Sodium cocoyl glycinate (Cocoyl g ycinate de sodium) AMILITE® GCS-12K AJINOMOTO Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate (L aureth sulfosuccinate disodium) TEXAPON® SB 3 UNK ONS BASF Inventive Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 The compositions of Inventive Examples (EI.) 1-2 and Comparative Examples (CE.) 1-4 were prepared with the components listed in Table 2 (the contents were expressed as percentages by weight of active ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition): [Table 3] Table #2 1 EL 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Glycolipids (Glyc olipids) 1.4 1.4 0 1.4 1.4 1.4 Sodium cocoyl glycinate 14.4 5 14.4 0 14.4 1.5 Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 0 1.4 Citric acid pH = 6.3 pH = 5.5 pH = 6.3 pH = 6.3 pH = 6.3 pH = 6.3 Water QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100 QS 100
[0182] The composition of inventive examples 1 and 2 represents the composition of the present invention.
[0183] The composition of comparative example 1 does not comprise at least one glycolipid.
[0184] The composition of comparative example 2 does not comprise at least one surfactant amino acid.
[0185] The composition of Comparative Example 3 does not comprise at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate.
[0186] The composition of Comparative Example 4 does not comprise at least 2% by weight of an amino acid surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preparation process
[0187] The compositions were prepared as follows.
[0188] All raw materials were mixed and made up to 100% by weight with water to obtain a mixture. Then, the mixture was heated up to 80 ° C with stirring, and then cooled to 25 ° C. Assessment
[0189] Foam volume, skin feel and rinsing speed
[0190] The compositions obtained were evaluated by 10 trained volunteers in terms of foam volume, skin sensation, in particular smooth skin texture, and rinsing speed as follows.
[0191] 0.5 g of each composition of El. 1-2 and EC. 1-4 was applied to hands wet. Then, 1 g of tap water was added, and then rubbing was performed 20 times. The resulting foam was then collected in a palm to assess the foam volume.
[0192] Then, the foam was washed by hand with tap water, while the number of hand touches until a flawless feeling was counted to evaluate the rinsing speed.
[0193] Then, the smooth texture of the skin was evaluated 2 minutes after towel drying.
[0194] Scores ranging from 0 to 5 were assigned for foam volume, skin feel, and rinse speed according to the following standards. Foam Volume
[0195] >4, <5: More than a palm
[0196] >3, <4: Almost a palm
[0197] >2, <3: Half a palm to a palm
[0198] >1, <2: Less than half a palm
[0199] >0, <1: Very little foaming Skin sensation
[0200] >4, <5: Very smooth and moisturized
[0201] >3, <4: Smooth
[0202] >2, <3: Slightly rough
[0203] >1, <2: Rough
[0204] >0, < 1: Dry, tight, barrier sensation. Rinse speed
[0205] >4, <5 : < 2 touch rinses
[0206] >3, <4 : >=2, <4 touch rinses
[0207] >2, <3 : >=4, <6 touch rinses
[0208] >1, <2 : >=6, <8 touch rinses
[0209] >0, <1 : >= 8 touch rinses
[0210] Scores for lather volume, skin smoothness, and rinsing speed were assigned by the 10 volunteers for each composition of EL 1-2 and EC.1-4, then averaged and rounded, and then summarized in Tables 3-5.
[0211] [Table 4]
[0212] [Tables3] El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 CE. 3 EC. 4 Foam volume 5 4 5 2 2 2
[0213] [Table 5] Table #4 El. 1 EL 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Smooth skin texture 5 5 3 5 5 5
[0215] [Table 6]
[0216] [Tables5] El. 1 El. 2 Rinse speed 5 5
[0217] It can be seen from Tables 3 to 5 that the composition according to the present invention can lead to a large volume of foam and deliver a very moisturized and smooth feeling to the skin, and can even have a fast rinsing speed. Viscosity
[0218] The viscosity of each composition was measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat R180 viscometer equipped with an M4 spindle, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in a sample (time after which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the spindle is observed), at a shear rate of 200 rpm. The viscosity of each composition has been summarized in Table 6
[0219] [Table 7]
[0220] [Tableauxô] El. 1 El. 2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 Viscosity (mPa.s) 3557 1028 3794 7.4 3322 10
[0221] Furthermore, it can be seen from Table 6 that the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity greater than 1000 mPa.s, and does not present any problem of sagging.
Claims
1.
2. Claims Composition, preferably for cleaning and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, comprising: (i) at least one glycolipid; (ii) at least 2% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition; and (iii) at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate. Composition according to claim 1, in which the glycolipid is chosen from mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids corresponding to the following formula (VI):
3. in which: - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0, - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and - R1 and R2 each independently represent identical or different hydrocarbon groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably mono-, di- or tri-unsaturated hydrocarbon groups. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, in which the glycolipid is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.03% by weight to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight.
4.
5. % by weight, most preferably from 0.8% by weight to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the amino acid surfactant is chosen from (C8-C28) acyl-amino surfactants, preferably the amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (A): O (A) JCH2)n COOM Z^ -N' XY in which: - Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group, containing 7 to 21 carbon atoms, - X is hydrogen or a methyl group, - n is 0 or 1; - Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH3, -CH(CH3)2, -CH2CH(CH3)2, -CH(CH3)CH2CH3, -CH2C6H5, -CH2C2H4OH, -CH2OH, -CH(OH)CH3, -(CH2)4NH2, -(CH2)3NHCH(NH2)2, -CH2C(O)O M+, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and - M is a salt-forming cation in which C(O)O is the counter-anion, preferably chosen from sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine, and their mixture, preferably in formula (A): - Z represents a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group, - X is hydrogen or a methyl group, - n is 0, - Y is chosen from hydrogen, -(CH2)2C(O)OH, -(CH2)2C(O)O M+, and - M is a salt-forming cation in which C(O)O is the counter-anion, preferably chosen from sodium, potassium, ammonium, triethanolamine, and their mixture. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the amino acid surfactant is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 2.5% by weight to 30% by weight, more preferably from 3% by weight to 25% by weight, even more preferably from 4% by weight to 20% by weight, most preferably from 5% by weight to 18% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is represented by the following formula (B): CH3-(CH2)n-(O-CH2-CH2)mO-CO-CH2-CH(SO3M)-CO-OM' (B) wherein: - n denotes an integer ranging from 9 to 27, preferably from 9 to 21, more preferably from 11 to 17; - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 50, preferably from 1 to 25, more preferably from 1 to 10, even more preferably from 1 to 8, most preferably from 1 to 6; - M and M' denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from an amine.
7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.
8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.03% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% by weight to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.3% by weight to 5% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.8% by weight to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition: (i) from 0.8% by weight to 2.5% by weight of at least one glycolipid chosen from rhamnolipids; (ii) from 5% by weight to 18% by weight of at least one amino acid surfactant chosen from sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glycinate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glycinate, cocoyl disodium glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, TEA cocoyl glutamate, and a mixture thereof; and (iii) from 0.5% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one (poly)oxyalkylenated C10-C28 fatty alcohol sulfosuccinate represented by the following formula (B): CH3-(CH2)n-(O-CH2-CH2)mO-CO-CH2-CH(SO3M)-CO-OM' (B) in which: - n denotes an integer ranging from 9 to 27, preferably from 9 to 21, more preferably from 11 to 17; - m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 50, preferably from 1 to 25, more preferably from 1 to 10, even more preferably from 1 to 8, most preferably from 1 to 6; - M and M' denote, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, an ammonium group or a cation derived from an amine.
10. A non-therapeutic process for cleansing and / or removing make-up from keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, comprising applying to the keratinous materials, in particular from the skin, the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and rinsing said composition after an optional period of time.