COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ACNE TREATMENT

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ACNE CARE An acne care composition includes at least one surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate and optionally glyceryl stearate SE, at least one glycolipid, at least one beta-hydroxy acid comprising salicylic acid or a derivative thereof, at least one clay comprising optionally kaolin, at least one cationic polymer comprising optionally chitosan, at least one thickener comprising carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water, and comprising glycerin, and at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and combinations thereof.When applied to the skin by friction, the composition exhibits a maximum shear stress in the range of approximately 100 to approximately 1000 Pa at a shear rate in the range of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp decrease in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained. Figure for the abstract: none.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ACNE TREATMENT technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to a skin care composition, in particular, an acne care composition. CONTEXT

[0002] Current acne skincare routines often require the application of acne treatment products that remain on the skin for a desired period of time to achieve the benefits of the active ingredients. These products can be difficult to spread, unlikely to stay in place without running on acne-prone areas or acne blemishes during treatment, and difficult to remove once the application time has elapsed.

[0003] There is a need on the market for acne skin care compositions containing beneficial levels of active ingredients supplied in a base which allows ease of application to the skin and reliable retention on the targeted areas until the desired removal, at which point the composition can be reliably eliminated.

[0004] The inventors hereby propose a product formulation in the form of a paste-like acne treatment composition that is easy to spread under shear pressure and has a good structure without running after application and until removal. SUMMARY

[0005] In a first embodiment, the acne care composition comprises a. at least one surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate; b. at least one glycolipid; c. at least one beta-hydroxy acid; d. at least one clay; and e. at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and glycerin,

[0006] wherein the acne care composition exhibits a maximum shear stress in a range of about 100 to about 1000 PA at a shear rate in the range of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

[0007] In some embodiments, at least one glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipid, or a mixture thereof.

[0008] In some embodiments, at least one glycolipid is selected from the rhamnolipids present from about 1% to about 4%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0009] In some embodiments, the at least one beta-hydroxy acid comprises salicylic acid or a derivative thereof present from about 0.1% to about 2%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0010] In some embodiments, at least one clay comprises kaolin present from about 5% to about 20%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0011] In some embodiments, glycerin is present from about 10% to about 30%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0012] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one cationic polymer.

[0013] In some embodiments, at least one cationic polymer is chosen from the group consisting of chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyomithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, and their combinations.

[0014] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is chitosan present from about 0.05% to about 0.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0015] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes at least one thickener.

[0016] In some embodiments, at least one thickener is selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, and at least one thickener is present in a range of about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0017] In some embodiments, at least one thickener is carrageenan present from about 0.5% to about 1.5% by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0018] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of antimicrobials, chelating agents, oils, fillers, penetrants, sequestrants, perfumes, dispersants, skin care actives, and combinations thereof.

[0019] In certain embodiments, the acne treatment composition comprises at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, the niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and their combinations.

[0020] In some embodiments, at least one surfactant comprises glyceryl stearate SE.

[0021] In some embodiments, the pH is from 4.7 to 5.9.

[0022] In another embodiment, the acne treatment composition includes a. a surfactant comprising sodium cocoylisethionate present at approximately 10% and glyceryl stearate SE present at approximately 5%; b. at least one glycolipid present at approximately 3%; c. at least one beta-hydroxy acid comprising salicylic acid or a derived from it present at approximately 2%; d. at least one clay containing kaolin present at approximately 15%; e. at least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan present at approximately 0.1%; f. at least one thickener comprising one of carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof present at approximately 1%; g. at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water, and containing glycerin present from approximately 10% to approximately 30%; and h. at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and combinations thereof,

[0023] all quantities being in weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition,

[0024] wherein the acne care composition exhibits a maximum shear stress in a range of about 100 to about 1000 PA at a shear rate in the range of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

[0025] In some embodiments, at least one additive including sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and ceramides.

[0026] In another embodiment, the disclosure proposes a skin cleansing method comprising applying an acne treatment composition to the skin of a subject, comprising: a. a surfactant comprising sodium cocoyl isethionate and glyceryl stearate SE; b. at least one glycolipid; c. at least one beta-hydroxy acid comprising salicylic acid or one of its derivatives; d. at least one clay containing kaolin; e. at least one cationic polymer comprising chitosan; f. at least one thickener comprising one of the following: carrageenan, gum xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or one of their combinations; g. at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water, and comprising glycerin; and h. at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and combinations thereof,

[0027] wherein the acne care composition exhibits a maximum shear stress in the range of about 100 to about 1000 PA at a shear rate in the range of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp drop in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

[0028] In certain embodiments of the process, the composition is one of the following: (a) in the form of a localized treatment having a paste-like texture which is applied to the skin and rinsed off after a selected period of time, (b) in the form of a cleanser having a paste-like texture which is applied to the skin by rubbing and rinsed off after a selected period of time, and (c) in the form of a mask having a paste-like texture which is applied to the skin by rubbing, kept on the skin for a selected period of time, and then rinsed off.

[0029] Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following more detailed description of the preferred embodiment which illustrates, by way of example, the principles of the invention. Brief description of the drawings

[0030] The [Fig. 1] is a graph showing the change in shear viscosity as a function of shear rate in example compositions;

[0031] Figure 2 is a graph showing the change in shear stress as a function of the shear rate in example compositions; and

[0032] Fig. 3 is a graph showing the change in shear stress as a function of shear rate in example compositions.

[0033] It must be understood that the preceding and following descriptions are given by way of example and explanation only, and are not intended to be restrictive with respect to any claimed subject matter. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0034] The disclosure relates to acne treatment compositions and methods of using the compositions.

[0035] In various embodiments, the composition is a mild surfactant-based acne care product which may be offered in the form of one or more of a cleanser, a mask or a leave-on spot treatment, each intended for short-term use and to be removed at least with water.

[0036] According to the invention, the acne treatment composition is offered in a multi-purpose anti-acne product having a relatively thick, paste-like texture that is left to act during use. The acne treatment composition can be applied to acne blemishes without dripping.

[0037] As a face mask or cleanser, for covering large areas, the acne treatment composition demonstrates minimal resistance to spreading on the face, with good spreading ability, and remains in place without running. At low shear rates, the acne treatment composition behaves like a yield stress fluid with stable structure retention, while at high shear rates, the shear stress exhibits an inflection point, followed by a sharp decrease in shear stress beyond the peak while remaining at a high shear rate. After shear stress is eliminated, the consistency of the composition returns to a thick, paste-like state.

[0038] The examples show that the acne treatment composition exhibits maximum shear stress in the range of approximately 200 to approximately 1000 Pa at a shear rate in the range of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a sharp decrease in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained. While not linked to any specific theory, it is thought that at the maximum inflection shear rate, a structural change occurs in the micro-aggregation of sodium cocoylisethionate and associated ingredients, resulting in relaxation and a decrease in viscosity. Above the inflection shear rate, lower viscosity results in improved spreadability of the acne treatment composition. Compositions

[0039] Surfactant:

[0040] In various embodiments, the acne treatment composition includes the surfactant sodium cocoyl isethionate. In some embodiments, the acne treatment composition may include, or alternatively may be substantially free of, or exclude one or more nonionic, cationic, or anionic surfactants. In some embodiments, the acne treatment composition excludes all surfactants except sodium cocoyl isethionate.

[0041] In some embodiments, the composition also includes at least one additional surfactant selected from glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate and cetyl alcohol. In some embodiments, the composition includes at least glyceryl stearate SE in addition to sodium cocoyl isethionate.

[0042] The concentration of sodium cocoyl isethionate present in the acne treatment composition is approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or approximately 2% to approximately 18%, or approximately 5% to approximately 15%, or approximately 8% to approximately 12%, or approximately 10%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the acne treatment composition. A person skilled in the art will understand, however, that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0043] Thus, sodium cocoylisethionate is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, from about 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18 to about 20 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0044] Where appropriate, an additional surfactant, for example glyceryl stearate, is present in the acne care composition at a concentration of approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or approximately 2% to approximately 18%, or approximately 5% to approximately 15%, or approximately 8% to approximately 12%, or approximately 2% to approximately 6%, or approximately 5%, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the acne care composition. A person skilled in the art will, however, understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0045] Thus, an additional surfactant, if any, is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, from about 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 18 to about 20 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0046] Glycolipids:

[0047] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more glycolipids. In some embodiments, at least one glycolipid is chosen from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, or mixtures thereof.

[0048] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes only a glycolipid comprising a rhamnolipid, for example sold under the name Rheance One (TM) by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids), present from about 1% to about 4%, or from about 2% to about 3%, or at about 3%.

[0049] The term "glycolipid" means a compound formed from a lipid to which one or more sugar compounds are linked.

[0050] One or more glycolipids may be selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, mannosylerythritol lipid, and mixtures thereof.

[0051] Glucolipids:

[0052] The one or more glycolipids may be glucolipids, which contain a glucose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (I):

[0053] in which:

[0054] - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0055] - p denotes an integer from 1 to 4, and

[0056] - q denotes an integer from 4 to 10, preferably equal to 6.

[0057] Glycolipids can be produced by the bacterium Alcaligenes sp. MML

[0058] The appropriate fermentation processes are reviewed by Mr. Schmidt in his doctoral thesis (1990), Technical University of Braunschweig, and by Schulz et al. (1991) Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203. The glucolipids are recovered from the fermentation broth by solvent extraction using diethyl ether or a dichloromethane:methanol or chloroform:methanol mixture.

[0059] Sophorolipids:

[0060] One or more glycolipids may be sophorolipids, which contain a sophorose fraction and may be represented by the general formula (II):

[0061] in which:

[0062] - R3 and R4 individually represent a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group,

[0063] - R5 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl,

[0064] - R6 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated having from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, provided that the total number of carbon atoms in groups R5 and R6 does not exceed 20 and is preferably from 14 to 18.

[0065] Sophorolipids can be incorporated into the composition according to the present invention either in the form of an open-chain free acid, where R7 represents a hydrogen atom and R8 represents a hydroxy group OH, or in the form of a lactone, where a lactone ring is formed between R7 and R8, as indicated by formula (III): (III)

[0066] in which:

[0067] - R3, R4, R5 and R6 are as defined above,

[0068] provided that at least one of R3 and R4 represents an acetyl group.

[0069] Sophorolipids can be produced by yeast cells, for example Torulopsis apicola and Torulopsis bombicola cells. The fermentation process generally uses sugars and alkanes as substrates.

[0070] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed in AP Tulloch, JFT Spencer and PAJ Gorin, Can. J. Chem. (1962), 40, 1326, and U. Gobbert, S. Lang and F. Wagner, Biotechnology Letters (1984), 6 (4), 225. The resulting product is a mixture of various open-chain sophorolipids and sophorolipid lactones which can be used in mixtures, or the required form can be isolated.

[0071] It is possible to use as sophorolipids, for example that sold under the name Sopholiance S by Givaudan and that sold under the name BioToLife by BASF.

[0072] Trehalolipids:

[0073] One or more glycolipids may be trehalolipids, which contain a trehalose fragment and may be represented by the general formula (IV): ÎCHJ, ! S 2

[0074] in which:

[0075] - R9, RIO and RI1 individually represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical or unsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, having from 5 to 13 carbon atoms.

[0076] Trehalolipids can be produced by bacterial fermentation using the marine bacterium Arthrobacter sp. Ek 1 or the freshwater bacterium Rhodococcus erythropolis. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Ishigami et al. (1987), J. Jpn. Oil Chem. Soc., 36, 847-851, Schultz et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 197-203, and Passeri et al. (1991), Z. Naturforsch., 46C, 204-209.

[0077] Cellobiose lipids:

[0078] One or more glycolipids may be cellobiose lipids, which contain a cellobiose fragment and may be represented by the general formula (V): (V)

[0079] in which:

[0080] - RI represents a hydrogen atom or a cation,

[0081] - R12 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 13 carbon atoms,

[0082] - RI3 represents a hydrogen atom or an acetyl group;

[0083] - R14 represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, hydroxylated or not hydroxylated, having from 4 to 16 carbon atoms.

[0084] Cellobiose lipids can be produced by fungal cells of the genus Ustilago. Suitable fermentation processes are proposed by Frautz, Lang and Wagner (1986), Biotech. Letts., 8, 757-762.

[0085] Rhamnolipids:

[0086] One or more glycolipids may be rhamnolipids.

[0087] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises one or more rhamnolipids.

[0088] Rhamnolipids are glycolipids produced by various bacterial species. They consist of one rhamnose fragment (mono-rhamnolipid) or two rhamnose fragments (di-rhamnolipid) linked by a glycosidic bond to one, two or three [3-hydroxylated] fatty acid chains linked together by an ester bond.

[0089] More specifically, these mono-rhamnolipids and di-rhamnolipids correspond to the following formula (VI): O OH

[0090] in which:

[0091] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0,

[0092] - n denotes an integer equal to 1 or 0, and

[0093] - RI and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated.

[0094] Thus, when n is equal to 0, formula (VI) relates to mono-rhamnolipids and, when n is equal to 1, it relates to di-rhamnolipids.

[0095] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid.

[0096] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0097] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0098] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0099] - RI and R2 each independently represent hydrocarbon radicals identical or different, having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 5 to 13 carbon atoms, which are branched or unbranched, substituted or unsubstituted, in particular hydroxy-substituted, saturated or unsaturated, preferably an alkyl radical simply, doubly or triply unsaturated, as well as their salts, solvates and optical isomers.

[0100] The glycosidic linkage between the two rhamnose fragments can be in alpha or beta configuration and is preferably in alpha configuration.

[0101] In the context of the invention,

[0102] - the salts of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly their salts carboxylates with an organic or inorganic cation and in particular with a cation chosen from sodium, potassium, calcium and ammonium.

[0103] - the solvated forms of di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) are more particularly those solvated by one or more molecules of water or organic solvents, for example a hydrate or solvate of a linear or branched alcohol, such as ethanol or isopropanol, the optically active carbon atoms of fatty acids being preferably in the form of R enantiomers, and

[0104] - the term "alkyl" radical designates a saturated, linear aliphatic group or branched; for example, a C1-C20 alkyl group having a linear or branched hydrocarbon chain of 1 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl or eicosyl group.

[0105] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which:

[0106] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0;

[0107] - n denotes an integer equal to 1; and

[0108] - RI and R2, which are identical or different, are chosen from among the radicals pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl and radicals of formula -(CH2)oCH3, o denoting an integer from 1 to 23, in particular from 3 to 15 and more particularly from 4 to 12.

[0109] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of general formula (VI) in which m is equal to 1.

[0110] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, preferably at least three, di-rhamnolipids of general formula (VI) in which m is preferably equal to 1.

[0111] According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture comprising at least one mono-rhamnolipid.

[0112] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dirhamnolipid of the following formula (VII):

[0113] in which:

[0114] - m denotes an integer equal to 2, 1 or 0; preferably, m is equal to 1,

[0115] - n denotes an integer equal to 1,

[0116] - RI is a radical (CH2)p-CH3, where p is an integer ranging from 1 to 23, Preference for 4 to 12,

[0117] - R2 is a radical -(CH2)q-CH3, q being an integer ranging from 1 to 23, of Preference for 4 to 12,

[0118] and also their salts, their solvates and their optical isomers.

[0119] By way of illustration and without limiting the di-rhamnolipides of formula (VII) which may be suitable for the invention, particular mention may be made of the compounds of formula di-RL-CXCY, as defined in Table 1 below.

[0120] The formula di-RL-CXCY is a variant of writing to represent a di-rhamnolipid (di-RL) functionalized by two radicals RI and R2 respectively represented by the symbols CX and CY, the integers X and Y being respectively equal to p+4 and q+4.

[0121] [Table 1] TABLE 1: di-rhamnolipids of formula (VII) Compounds DvRL-CXOY PQ 1 4 4 3 4 6 3 6 4 4 é g 5 6 S 6 OL-cncw S 6 * ■f oi-cncn SS ​​s 41RL-ŒC14 S lo „........................ ___ ............... ut 10 w H 10 12 _____ .......10 13 12 13

[0122] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, also called di-RL-ClOCIO, or one of its salts, solvated and optical isomers.

[0123] Preferably, the di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1 is present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipids.

[0124] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8.

[0125] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)oCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is selected from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0126] According to another preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0127] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1;

[0128] - a di-rhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which m is equal to 1, p is equal to 6 and q is equal to 8; and

[0129] - at least one di-rhamnolipid of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)oCH3, o being an integer ranging from 4 to 12, and R2 is chosen from the pentenyl, hexenyl, heptenyl, octenyl, nonenyl, decenyl, undecenyl, dodecenyl and tridecenyl radicals; preferably, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 a nonenyl radical.

[0130] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of at least two, in particular at least three, di-rhamnolipids of formula (VI) or formula (VII) selected from:

[0131] - at least 50% by weight and preferably from 51% to 85% by weight of a di- rhamnolipide of formula (VII) in which p and q are identical and equal to 6 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of rhamnolipides.

[0132] - from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, of a dirhamnolipid of formula (VII) in which p is equal to 6, q is equal to 8 and m is equal to 1, with respect to the total weight of the rhamnolipids, and

[0133] - from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 12% by weight, preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of a dirhamnolipide of formula (VI) in which n and m are equal to 1, RI represents a radical -(CH2)6CH3 and R2 represents a nonenyl radical, relative to the total weight of the rhamnolipides.

[0134] As specified above, rhamnolipids are usually prepared by processes known to the person skilled in the art from bacterial producers, such as Pseudomonas.

[0135] Suitable fermentation processes are reviewed by D. Haferburg, R. Hommel, R. Claus and HP Kleber in Adv. Biochem. Ing. / Biotechnol. (1986), 33, 53-90, and by F. Wagner, H. Bock and A. Kretschmar in Fermentation (ed. RM Lafferty) (1981), 181-192, Springer Verlag, Vienna.

[0136] The rhamnolipide sold under the name Rheance One by Evonik (INCI name: glycolipids) can be used as a rhamnolipide.

[0137] In certain embodiments, the concentration of at least one glycolipid is from approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 4%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 3%, or approximately 3%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the acne treatment composition. A person skilled in the art will understand, however, that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0138] Thus, at least one glycolipid is present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, of approximately 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2.0, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3.0, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4.0, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9 at approximately 5 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges.

[0139] Beta-hydroxy acid / salicylic acid:

[0140] The acne treatment composition comprises at least one beta-hydroxy acid. In certain particular embodiments, the acne treatment composition may include a beta-hydroxy acid comprising salicylic acid.

[0141] In certain particular embodiments, the acne care composition includes only a beta-hydroxy acid comprising salicylic acid present from about 0.1% to about 2%, by weight of the acne care composition.

[0142] According to these embodiments which include salicylic acid, the composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one salicylic acid derivative of formula (I). Only one type of salicylic acid derivative may be used, but two or more different types of salicylic acid derivatives may be used in combination.

[0143] The salicylic acid derivatives according to the present invention correspond to the formula (I): % ,OH (1) C R. Y O

[0144] in which:

[0145] - the radical R designates a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more double bonds which may be conjugated; an aromatic ring linked to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups optionally being substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or carboxyl groups in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0146] - R' is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula: — OC-Rj II

[0147] in which Ri designates a linear or branched aliphatic chain, saturated or unsaturated, containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0148] as well as their salts derived from an inorganic or organic base.

[0149] Preferably, the radical R in formula (I) designates a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; wherein said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted with one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, selected from halogen atoms, a trifluoromethyl group, hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

[0150] In a preferred embodiment, the radical R in formula (I) designates a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably an alkyl group, containing 2 or more, preferably 3 or more, more preferably 4 or more, even more preferably 5 or more, and in particular 6 or more carbon atoms, and / or 22 or less, preferably 18 or less, even more preferably 14 or less, preferably 12 or less, and in particular 10 or less carbon atoms.

[0151] Preferably, R' in formula (I) is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula: —OCR, II O

[0152] in which Ri denotes a radical -(CH2)n-CH3 where n is a number from 0 to 14.

[0153] Salicylic acid derivatives that are most particularly preferred are those according to formula (I) in which the radical R is a C3-Ci0 alkyl group and / or R' designates a hydroxyl.

[0154] Other particularly advantageous compounds are those in which R represents a chain derived from caprylic, linoleic, linolenic or oleic acid.

[0155] Another group of particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives consists of compounds in which the radical R denotes a C3-CiO alkyl group bearing a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R' denotes a hydroxyl.

[0156] Salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) which can be used according to the present invention are described in particular in US patents 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789, US 5,580,549 and EP-A-570,230.

[0157] Among the particularly preferred salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I), 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (or capryloylsalicylic acid) may be mentioned; 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-dodecanoylsalicylic acid; 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, and their corresponding salts. The derivative in question is preferably 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid.

[0158] For the purposes of the present invention, salts of salicylic acid derivatives are also considered. Salts derived from inorganic bases include, in particular, those derived from hydroxylated alkali metal or alkaline earth metal bases, for example, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and ammonia. Salts derived from organic bases include, in particular, those derived from amine or alkanolamine bases.

[0159] More generally, the term "beta-hydroxy acid" according to the present invention refers to a carboxylic acid having a hydroxyl functional group and a carboxylic functional group separated by two carbon atoms. A beta-hydroxy acid may be present in the acne treatment composition in the form of the free acid and / or in the form of one of its associated salts (salts with an organic base or an alkali metal, in particular), especially depending on the final pH imposed on the acne treatment composition.

[0160] Suitable beta-hydroxy acids include salicylic acid and its derivatives (including 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, salicylate, sodium salicylate, and a willow extract), capryloylsalicylic acid, beta-hydroxybutanoic acid, propionic acid, beta-hydroxy beta-methylbutyric acid, tropic carnitine acid and trethocanic acid, and combinations thereof.

[0161] The acne treatment composition includes a concentration of beta-hydroxy acid in the range of approximately 0.01% up to and not more than approximately 2% of beta-hydroxy acid, by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne treatment composition. In some embodiments, the acne treatment composition may include up to and not more than approximately 2% or approximately 1.9% of beta-hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the acne treatment composition may include up to and not more than approximately 1% of beta-hydroxy acid. In some embodiments, the amount of beta-hydroxy acid, if any, is not more than approximately 0.40% to approximately 0.50%.

[0162] In certain embodiments, the acne treatment composition may include from about 0.1% to about 2% of beta-hydroxy acid, or any suitable combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the acne treatment composition. However, a person skilled in the art will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0163] Thus, at least one beta-hydroxy acid is present in the acne care composition from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, at about 2.0%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition, including increments and all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0164] Clay:

[0165] In some embodiments, the acne treatment composition may include at least one clay.

[0166] In certain particular embodiments, at least one clay is kaolin present from about 5% to about 20%, by weight of the acne care composition.

[0167] In certain embodiments, where appropriate, at least one clay may be selected from the group of clays consisting of kaolinites, smectite, sodium smectite, calcium smectite, illite, chlorite, vermiculite, attapulgite, and combinations thereof. In certain specific embodiments, at least one clay may be kaolin. In certain specific embodiments, at least one clay may be a smectite clay from the mica family of phylosilicates. In certain specific embodiments, at least one clay may include hectorite.

[0168] In some embodiments, at least one clay is present in an amount of about 0.1% to about 20%, or about 10% to about 18%, or about 15%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0169] Thus, when at least one clay is present in the acne care composition, it may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, to about 20 percent, including increments and intermediate ranges.

[0170] Cosmetically acceptable solvent:

[0171] The compositions according to the disclosure contain at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent. In various embodiments, the cosmetically acceptable solvent may be selected from water.

[0172] Water:

[0173] According to the various embodiments, water is present in the acne treatment composition in a range of approximately 10% to approximately 60%, or approximately 20% to approximately 55%, or approximately 25% to approximately 50%, or approximately 28% to approximately 49%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the acne treatment composition. However, those skilled in the art will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0174] Thus, water may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, from approximately 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, to approximately 60 percent by weight, y including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0175] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, La Roche-Posay water, La Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux-Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint-Christau water, Les Fumades, Tercis-les-Bains water or Avène water.

[0176] The aqueous phase may also include reconstituted thermal water, i.e. water including trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of thermal water.

[0177] The acne care composition has a pH of 4.7 to 5.9.

[0178] The pH can be corrected to the desired value by adding a base (organic or inorganic), for example sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or another suitable base, or a combination thereof. Water-soluble solvents

[0179] According to certain embodiments, the acne treatment composition includes at least one water-soluble solvent. The term “water-soluble solvent” is interchangeable with the term “water-miscible solvent” and refers to a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and that has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. In some cases, the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions.

[0180] In certain particular embodiments, the water-soluble solvent includes glycerin present from about 5% to about 30%, or from about 10% to about 30%, by weight of the acne care composition.

[0181] By way of example of organic solvents, one may mention, without limitation, ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl-, monoethyl- and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or their ethers such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.

[0182] Other suitable examples of organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin. Organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.

[0183] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols, glycols, and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-l,4-diol, 2-ethyl-l,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-l,2-pentanediol.

[0184] Other non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, ethylene glycol acetate monomethyl ether, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl diethylene glycol ether, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl propylene glycol ether, monoethyl propylene glycol ether, mono-t-butyl propylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl propylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl propylene glycol ether, monomethyl dipropylene glycol ether, monoethyl dipropylene ether glycol, mono-n-propyl dipropylene glycol ether and mono-iso-propyl dipropylene glycol ether;2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbitol, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, or a mixture thereof.

[0185] According to the various embodiments, the quantity of at least one water-soluble solvent is from approximately 0.1% to approximately 25%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.8%, or from approximately 0.1% to approximately 0.5%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 20%, or from approximately 1% to approximately 10%, or from approximately 2% to approximately 8%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range or subrange of these values ​​by weight, relative to to the weight of the acne treatment composition. However, a person skilled in the art will understand that other areas fall within the scope of the invention.

[0186] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes more than one water-soluble solvent, each water-soluble solvent being present in an amount such as set out above, in which each different water-soluble solvent may be present in one of the ranges selected from the ranges set out above.

[0187] Thus, water-soluble solvents may be present by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 to about 25 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0188] Thickener:

[0189] In various embodiments, the acne treatment composition may include at least one stabilizer and / or a thickening agent. The thickener may be thickening polymers.Non-limiting examples include sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, carrageenan, acacia, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, amylopectin, calcium alginate, sodium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, gellan gum, guar gum, tragacanth gum, acacia gum, gum arabic, hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride, hectorite, hyaluronic acid, hydrated silica, hydroxypropyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl guar, karaya gum, kelp, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, carrageenan, propylene glycol acrylate, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan, tragacanth gum, xanthan gum, modified xanthan gum, gum of biosaccharides, chitin, levan, elsinan, collagen, gelatin, zein, gluten, soy protein, casein and mixtures thereof.

[0190] According to some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises one or more of carrageenan, xanthan gum and sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, present in a range of about 0.1% to about 5%, or about 1% by weight of the acne care composition.

[0191] According to some embodiments, the acne care composition includes carrageenan as a particularly preferred stabilizing / thickening agent, present at approximately 1% by weight of the acne care composition.

[0192] At least one thickener, if any, is present in the acne care composition at a concentration of approximately 0.1% to approximately 5%, or approximately 0.2% to approximately 3%, or approximately 0.5% to approximately 2%, or approximately 1%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the acne treatment composition. However, a person skilled in the art will understand that other areas fall within the scope of the invention.

[0193] Thus, at least one thickener may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 2, 3, 4 to about 5 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0194] Cationic Polymer:

[0195] In the various embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one cationic polymer selected from naturally derived polymers that are polysaccharides, and other natural (i.e., of plant, animal or bacterial origin), synthetic, or modified cationic naturally derived or synthetic polymers.

[0196] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a polymer of natural origin. In general, a cationic polymer of natural origin can be chosen from cationic forms and cationic derivatives of polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides produced by microorganisms and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides.

[0197] In some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises at least one cationic polymer of natural origin comprising a chitosan, where in some embodiments the chitosan is selected from a chitosan oligosaccharide, a chitosan (or a chitosan polymer having a molecular weight (MW) in a range of about 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa), chitosan derivatives, including derivatives having enhanced solubility, or combinations thereof.

[0198] In various embodiments, chitosan has a molecular weight (MW) in the range of about 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa. In some particular embodiments, chitosan has a “low” MW, in the range of about 1 kDa to about 20 kDa, or about 10 kDa to about 20 kDa, or about 12 kDa to about 18 kDa. In some embodiments, chitosan has a chitosan MW of ~27 kDa

[0199] According to some embodiments, the acne care composition comprises chitosan present at approximately 0.1% by weight of the acne care composition.

[0200] In some embodiments, the naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides that include chitosan, chitin, starches, alginates, celluloses, galactomannans such as guar gums, in particular their cationic derivatives, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, at least one naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from polysaccharides may be chosen from chitosan, chitosan derivatives, chitin, starch, and derivatives. starch, cellulose (for example, but not limited to, ethylcellulose, nitrocellulose, hemicellulose and hemicellulose derivatives), alginates, including but not limited to sodium alginate, and combinations thereof.

[0201] In some embodiments, the cationic polymer is a naturally occurring cationic polymer selected from: chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitosan polymer having a molecular weight in the range of 1 kDa to about 1000 kDa, chitosan derivatives, chitosan derivatives having enhanced solubility, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid, or combinations thereof. In preferred embodiments, the cationic polymer is selected from chitosan, polylysine, or combinations thereof.

[0202] Examples of cationic polymers include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose), cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyornithine), peptide / protein polymers (e.g., histone, collagen), linear or branched synthetic polymers (e.g., polybrene, polyethyleneimine), natural polymers (e.g., histone, collagen), synthetic dendrimers, thiolated cationic biopolymers (naturally occurring thiomers or naturally occurring dendrimers, e.g., chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutbutylamidine and chitosan-thioglycolic acid).

[0203] Examples of naturally occurring cationic polymers include polysaccharide-based delivery molecules (e.g., chitosan, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose); cationic peptides and their derivatives (e.g., polylysine, polyornithine); peptide / protein polymers (e.g., histone, collagen); thiolated cationic biopolymers (naturally occurring thiomers or naturally occurring dendrimers, e.g., chitosan-cysteine, chitosan-thiobutylamidine, chitosan-thioglycolic acid); or combinations thereof.

[0204] According to the present invention, the cationic polymer can be selected from polylysines. A single type of polylysine can be used, or two or more different types of polylysine can be used in combination.

[0205] Polylysines are formed by the condensation of several lysine amino acids. Polylysine can be a natural homopolymer of L-lysine, which can be produced by bacterial fermentation. Polylysines are typically used as a natural preservative in food products. Polylysine is a polyelectrolyte that is soluble in polar solvents such as water.

[0206] Polylysine can be, for example, an epsilon-polylysine (or designated as "e-polylysine"), which is a condensation of amino groups in the e position and carboxyl groups of lysines, or an alpha-polylysine (or designated as "a-polylysine"), which is a condensation of amino groups in the a position and carboxyl groups of lysines. Polylysine is commercially available in various forms, such as poly D-lysine and poly L-lysine. Polylysine is generally a condensate of L-lysines, i.e., poly L-lysine.

[0207] Examples of polylysine include:

[0208] - Epsilon-poly-L-lysine from JNC CORPORATION, which is a 25% solution of Epsilon-poly-L-lysine having a weight average molecular weight of approximately 4700 in aqueous solution.

[0209] Polylysine can be in the form of organic or inorganic salts. Salts added with an acid include, for example, salts of hydrochloric or hydrobromic acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, para-toluenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, and acetic acid; or salts of fatty acids, such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and 18-methylicosanoic acid. Salts added with a base include, for example, a sodium salt, a calcium salt, or a hydroxyalkylamine salt, such as N-methylglucamine, aminopropanediol, or triethanolamine.

[0210] In certain embodiments of the present invention, the polylysine is in free form. The term "free form" here indicates that the polylysine is not covalently bonded to other compounds.

[0211] At least one cationic polymer, if any, is present in the acne care composition from approximately 0.05% to approximately 2%, or from approximately 0.05% to approximately 1%, or from approximately 0.05% to approximately 0.5%, or approximately 0.1%, or any appropriate combination, subcombination, range, or subrange of these values ​​by weight relative to the weight of the acne care composition. However, a person skilled in the art will understand that other ranges fall within the scope of the invention.

[0212] Thus, at least one cationic polymer may be present, by weight, relative to the total weight of the acne care composition, from about 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.90, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, to about 2 percent by weight, including intermediate increments and ranges.

[0213] In some embodiments, the acne care composition may include or exclude any other cationic polymer, including a naturally derived polymer or a synthetic polymer.

[0214] In some examples, the synthetic polymers are not silicone-based, and in some embodiments may be chosen from the group consisting of polyquaterniums, that is, polymers having quaternary ammonium centers in the polymer, for example, including polyquatemium-47 (1-propanaminium, N,N,N-trimethyl-3-[(2-methyl-l-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-, chloride, polymer with methyl 2-propenoate and 2-propenoic acid).

[0215] Other non-limiting examples of these polyquaterniums may be chosen from the diallyidimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymers sold under the names MERQUAT 280 POLYMER or MERQUAT 280NP POLYMER or MERQUAT 281 POLYMER or MERQUAT 295 POLYMER, by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquatemium-22); the methacrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride, acrylic acid or methyl acrylate copolymer, sold under the name MERQUAT 2001 POLYMER OR MERQUAT 2001 N POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquatemium-47); acrylamide / dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid terpolymer sold under the name MERQUAT 3330DRY POLYMER or MERQUAT 3330PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3331 PR POLYMER or MERQUAT 3940 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3330 POLYMER or MERQUAT PLUS 3331 POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquaternium-39);an ampholyte terpolymer consisting of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC), acrylamide and acrylic acid, sold under the name MERQUAT 2003PR POLYMER by the company Nalco (Lubrizol) (INCI name: Polyquatemium-53).

[0216] Other non-limiting examples of such polyquatemium compounds may be chosen from Polyquatemium-30, Polyquaternium-35, Polyquatemium-45, Polyquaternium-50, Polyquaternium-54; Polyquaternium-57; Polyquaternium-63; Polyquaternium-74; Polyquatemium-76; Polyquaternium-86; Polyquatemium-89; Polyquaternium-95; Polyquaternium-98, Polyquatemium-104; Polyquatemium-111; Polyquatemium-112, and mixtures thereof.

[0217] The synthetic polymer may include cationic acrylic polymers, for example an amorphous functional acrylic polymer grafted onto a polyethylene skeleton such as SYNTRAN (TM) 5330, which is a quaternary modified olefin grafted technology.

[0218] Synthetic polymers may be selected from polyacrylates such as those identified in the Dictionary and International Manual of Cosmetic Ingredients (9th ed. 2002) such as, for example, polyacrylate-1, polyacrylate-2, polyacrylate-3, polyacrylate-4, polyacrylate-16, polyacrylate-17, polyacrylate-18, polyacrylate-19, polyacrylate-21, and their mixtures.

[0219] Optional Additives:

[0220] In some embodiments, there may be one or more optional active ingredients or other ingredients (here, "additives") present in the skincare composition acne, one or more additives optionally chosen from: antimicrobials; chelating agents; oils; fillers; penetrants; sequestrants; perfumes; dispersants; skin care actives such as ceramides, for example SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE (and) CERAMIDE NP (and) CERAMIDE AP (and) PHYTOSPHINGOSINE (and) CHOLESTEROL (and) XANTHAN GUM (and) CARBOMER (and) CERAMIDE EOP; opacifiers; alpha-hydroxy acids; organic and inorganic UV filters; citric acid; phenylethylresorcinol; hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol; hydroxyacetophenone;Antioxidants, including but not limited to phenolic compounds such as chalcones, flavones, flavanones, flavanols, flavonols, dihydroflavonols, isoflavonoids, neoflavonoids, catechins, anthocyanins, tannins, lignans, aurones, stilbenoids, curcuminoids, alkylphenols, betacyanins, capsacinoids, hydroxybenzoketones, methoxyphenols, naphthoquinones, and phenolic terpenes, resveratrol, curcumin, pinoresinol, ferulic acid, hydroxytyrosol, cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, p-coumaric acid, baicalin (Scutellaria baicalensis root extract), and pine bark extract (extract (from Pinus Pinaster bark / bud), ellagic acid; hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;escin (also known as Aescin, a mixture of saponins with anti-inflammatory, vasoconstrictive and vasoprotective effects found in Aesculus hippocastanum); retinol; niacinamide; and vitamins and vitamin derivatives, such as tocopherol and ascorbic acid; and combinations thereof.

[0221] Although the aforementioned optional additives are given by way of example, it will be understood that other optional components compatible with cosmetic applications known in the art may be used. And of course, one of the aforementioned additives may be excluded.

[0222] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and one of their combinations.

[0223] In some embodiments, the acne care composition includes additives comprising sodium hydroxide (0.3 to 0.5%), niacinamide (2%), lactic acid (0.05%), cetyl alcohol (2.5%), trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate (0.5 to 1%) and ceramides (sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterol (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP) (*final active concentration 0.25%).

[0224] According to the different embodiments, the quantities of additives, for example active ingredients and other components, which may be present in the acne care composition, may range from about 0.001% to about 50%, or from about 0.5% to about 30%, or from about 1.5% to about 20%, and from about 5% to about 15%, or any appropriate combination, sub-combination, range or sub-range of these values ​​by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

[0225] Thus, an additive or a combination of additives may be present in the acne care composition, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition, each additive or combination being present in approximately 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49 at approximately 50 percent by weight, including increments and intermediate ranges. Examples

[0226] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory only. In the examples, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active materials, relative to the total weight of the composition. Example 1#: Raw materials

[0227] The percentages of each ingredient as given by way of example in the following composition examples are indicated as a quantity of raw materials, the raw materials being able to be present in an amount equal to the amount of active, or if the raw material has an active concentration of less than 100%, then the cosmetic composition includes the raw material which includes the active and a suitable solvent, the concentration of active in the raw material being provided here below in Table 2. When referring to the examples of the invention and comparatives, it should be assumed that each ingredient as indicated in the composition given by way of example is the final amount of active, unless otherwise indicated.

[0228] [Table 2] TABLE 2: Selecting raw materials (including raw materials with active ingredient concentrations below 100%) MP Description ~% of active ingredient in the MP Glycolipids (Rh amnolipids) Rheance One (TM) 50% Na / Kaolin powder Ceramides sodium lauroyl lactylate (and) ceramide NP (and) ceramide AP (and) phytosphingosine (and) cholesterinus (and) xanthan gum (and) carbomer (and) ceramide EOP 1.55%

[0229] Example 2: Compositions of the invention and comparatives

[0230] Table 3 includes compositions A and B of the invention.

[0231] [Table 3] TABLE 3: Compositions A and B of the invention INGREDIENT INV A INV B GLYCERYL STEARATE SE 5.00 5.00 CARRAGEN 1.00 1.00 SALICYLIC ACID 2.00 2.00 WATER 47.70 28.15 GLYCERIN 10.00 30.00 KAOLIN 15.00 15.00 SODIUM COCOYLISETHIONATE 10.00 10.00 sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and ceramides (final concentration of active ingredient) 6.2 5.75 GLYCOLIPIDS (final concentration of active ingredient) 3.00 3.00 CHITOSAN 0.10 0.10

[0232] The compositions of the invention and comparatives in Table 4 below include the same ingredients as one of the compositions A or B of the invention, but one ingredient of these has been removed or replaced.

[0233] [Table 4] TABLE 4: Compositions C to H of the invention and comparative compositions 1 and 2 INVC Inv A - no thickener (replaces carrageenan) INVD Inv A - no thickener (replaces carrageenan) INVE Inv A - thickener is 1% xanthan gum (replaces carrageenan) INV F Inv B - thickener is 1% xanthan gum (replaces carrageenan) INV G Inv A - thickener is 1% sclerotium gum (replaces carrageenan) INVH Inv B - the thickener is 1% sclerotium gum (replaces carrageenan) COMP 1 Inv A - replace the sodium cocoyl isethionate surfactant with 10% sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate COMP 2 Inv B - replace the sodium cocoyl isethionate surfactant with 10% sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate Example 3#: Characterization of compositions

[0234] Samples of all compositions were prepared and evaluated for change in viscosity and shear stress when shear was applied to simulate friction when applied to the skin.

[0235] The viscosity flow profile of the sample was measured by a rheometer in flow sweep mode between a shear rate of 0.01 l / s and 1000 l / s. Before measurement, the sample was conditioned at 25 °C and subjected to precision and then to balancing.

[0236] Results:

[0237] Looking at the drawings, [Fig.1] shows the change in viscosity in all the compositions under test, while [Fig.2] and [Fig.3], respectively, show the behavior of the compositions under test when high shear is applied.

[0238] As can be seen, all the compositions of the invention and comparative formulations exhibit shear-thinning behavior. However, in the formulations containing sodium cocoyl isethionate (A to H of the invention), the viscosity decreases more sharply after the maximum shear stress compared to formulations Comp 1 and Comp 2, which contain sodium methyllauroyl isethionate. Indeed, in the comparative formulations that include the surfactant sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, the shear stress continues to increase with the shear rate, and the shear viscosity is simply shear-thinning, with no peak observed in the shear stress.

[0239] The observed response to the change in shear viscosity is thought to be related to a change in the formulation's structure, as evidenced by the maximum shear stress at a shear rate of approximately 1 to 100 1 / s. The sharp decrease in shear stress after the peak is thought, though not to be based on any theory, to indicate a change in the microstructure of the formulations. In contrast, in formulations Comp 1 and Comp 2, which contain sodium methyllauroyl isethionate, the shear stress increases steadily with increasing shear rate, meaning that the strength the shear stress gradually increases, but no structural change could be interpreted.

[0240] The presence of maximum shear stress and a significant decrease in viscosity results in a better spreading capacity of the product.

[0241] Referring again to the drawings, it is observed that the presence of a maximum shear stress is independent of the polymer and the glycerin concentration, but is related to the presence of the sodium cocoylisethionate surfactant.

[0242] Although the disclosure has been described with reference to a preferred embodiment, a person skilled in the art will understand that various modifications can be made and that equivalents can be substituted for elements thereof without departing from the scope of the disclosure. Furthermore, numerous modifications can be made to adapt a particular situation or subject matter to the teachings of the disclosure without departing from its essential scope. Accordingly, it is intended that the disclosure will not be limited to the particular embodiment disclosed as the best envisaged embodiment for carrying out this disclosure, but that the disclosure will include all embodiments falling within the scope of the appended claims.

[0243] Definitions and terms:

[0244] The transitional terms “comprising,” “consisting essentially of,” and “consisting of,” when used in the appended claims, in their original and amended forms, define the scope of the claims with respect to any additional elements or steps not mentioned, which are excluded from the scope of the claim(s). As used herein, the terms “comprising,” “having,” and “including” (or “comprise,” “have,” and “include”) are used in their open, non-limiting sense. The term “comprising” is intended to be inclusive or broad and does not exclude any additional, unmentioned element, process, step, or material.

[0245] The expression "consisting of" excludes any element, step or material other than those specified in the claims and, in the latter case, impurities ordinarily associated with the specified material or materials.

[0246] The expression "consisting essentially of" limits the scope of a claim to the specified elements, steps, or material(s) and to those that do not materially affect the fundamental and innovative feature(s) of the claimed invention. All the processes and materials described herein that incorporate the present invention can, in alternative embodiments, be defined more specifically by any of the transitional expressions "comprising," "consisting essentially of," and "consisting of."

[0247] As used herein, the expressions "and their mixtures", "and one of their mixtures", "and their combinations", "and one of their combinations", "or their mixtures", "or one of their mixtures", "or their combinations", and "or one of their combinations" are used interchangeably to indicate that the list of components immediately preceding the expression, such as "A, B, C, D, or their mixtures", means that the component(s) may be chosen from A, B, C, D, from A + B, from A + B + C, from A + D, from A + C + D, etc., without limitation as to their variations. Thus, the components may be used individually or in any of their combinations.

[0248] For the purposes of this disclosure, it should be noted that, for the sake of brevity, some of the quantitative expressions given herein are not qualified with the term "approximately." It is understood that, whether the term "approximately" is used explicitly or implicitly, each quantity given herein is intended to refer to the actual value given, and is also intended to refer to the approximation of that value given that would be reasonably deduced based on ordinary competence in the art, including approximations due to the experimental and / or measurement conditions for that value. All ranges and quantities indicated herein are intended to include subranges and quantities using any disclosed point as a bound.

[0249] A given range of "about 3% to 7%" is understood to have its bounds at both 3% and 7% modified by the term "about". The term "about" is used here to indicate a difference of up to + / - 10% from the stated number, such as + / - 9%, + / - 8%, + / - 7%, + / - 6%, + / - 5%, + / - 4%, + / - 3%, + / - 2%, or + / - 1%. Similarly, all bounds of the ranges are understood to be disclosed individually, such that, for example, a range of 1:2 to 2:1 is understood to disclose a ratio of 1:2 and 2:1.

[0250] “Active substance”, as used herein in relation to the percentage of a The quantity of an ingredient or raw material refers to 100% of the ingredient's or raw material's activity. All quantities stated here are relative to the amount of active ingredient, unless otherwise indicated.

[0251] All percentages, parts and ratios herein are based on the total weight of embodiments of the composition of this disclosure, unless otherwise indicated.

[0252] As used herein, the term "surfactants", as well as any specifically identified surfactant, includes salts of surfactants, even if not explicitly stated.

[0253] As used herein, the term "synthetic" means a material that is not of natural origin. The terms "natural," "of natural source," and "of natural origin" mean a material of natural origin, such as derived from plants, which It also cannot be chemically or physically altered afterwards. "Plant-based" means that the material comes from a plant.

[0254] Unless expressly stated otherwise, no process described herein is intended to be interpreted as requiring that its steps be performed in a specific order. Accordingly, where a process claim does not expressly state an order to be followed by its steps, or where it is not specifically stated in the claims or descriptions that the steps must be limited to a specific order, no particular order is to be inferred therefrom.

[0255] As used herein, the expressions "substantially free" or "essentially free" mean that the specific material may be present in small amounts that do not materially affect the basic and innovative features of the disclosed embodiments of the composition, or that the material may be absent. For example, there may be less than 2% by weight of a specific material added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the composition (provided that an amount less than 2% by weight does not materially affect the basic and innovative features of the disclosed embodiments of the composition). Similarly, the compositions may include less than 2%, less than 1.5%, less than 1%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, less than 0.05%, or less than 0.01%, or none at all (0%), of the specified material.Furthermore, all components positively presented in this disclosure may be negatively excluded from the claims; for example, a claimed composition may be "free," "substantially free," or "substantially free" of one or more components that are positively presented in this disclosure. The expression "substantially free" or "substantially free," as used here, may also mean that the specific material is not added to the composition but may still be present in a raw material included in the composition.

Claims

Demands

1. Acne care composition, comprising: a. at least one surfactant comprising: from 1% to 20% sodium cocoyl isethionate; b. at least one glycolipid; c. at least one beta-hydroxy acid; d. at least one clay; and e. at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent comprising water and glycerin, wherein the acne care composition exhibits a maximum shear stress in the range of about 100 to about 1000 PA at a shear rate in the range of 1 1 / s to 100 1 / s, followed by a decrease in viscosity when the shear stress is maintained.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one glycolipid is selected from rhamnolipids, sophorolipids, glucolipids, trehalolipids, cellobiose lipids, a mannosylerythritol lipid, or a mixture thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least one beta-hydroxy acid comprises salicylic acid or a derivative thereof present from about 0.1% to about 2%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one clay comprises kaolin present from about 5% to about 20%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein glycerin is present from about 10% to about 30%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one cationic polymer selected from the group consisting of chitosan, chitosan oligosaccharide, chitin, cyclodextrin, cationic gelatin, cationic dextran, cationic cellulose, polylysine, polyornithine, histone, collagen, chitosan-cysteine, a chitosan-thiobutylamidine, a chitosan-thioglycolic acid, and their combinations.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one thickener selected from carrageenan, xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, or a combination thereof, and at least one thickener is present in a range of about 0.1% to about 5%, by weight, relative to the weight of the acne care composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one additive selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, niacinamide, lactic acid, cetyl alcohol, trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, ceramides, and combinations thereof.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one surfactant comprises glyceryl stearate SE.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH is from 4.7 to 5.9.

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