Cosmetic composition comprising fatty amines, quaternary ammonium diesters, phosphated starches and fatty esters; and cosmetic processing method

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, particularly for hair care, comprising the combination of two different cationic surfactants, selected from fatty amines and quaternary ammonium diesters, with phosphated starches and preferably solid fatty esters. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, particularly for cleansing and / or conditioning, of keratinous materials, especially hair, using said composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising fatty amines, quaternary ammonium diesters, phosphated starches and fatty esters; and cosmetic processing method

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for hair, comprising a combination of at least two different cationic surfactants, phosphated starch, and a specific fatty ester. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, particularly hair, using said composition.

[0002] Hair can generally be damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and inclement weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and / or straightening, or even repeated washing. Hair thus becomes damaged by these various factors and can eventually become dry, rough, brittle or dull, particularly in fragile areas, and especially at the ends.

[0003] Thus, to remedy these drawbacks, it is common to use hair care compositions specifically designed to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. These hair care compositions may be, for example, conditioners, masks, or serums, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions, and conditioning creams of varying thicknesses.

[0004] It is also known to use conditioner-type compositions, comprising cationic surfactants, solid and liquid fats, and phosphated starches.

[0005] However, these compositions can still be improved, particularly with regard to the cosmetic properties provided to the hair; in particular, compositions providing a high level of cosmeticity to the hair are sought, including a smooth feel, good suppleness and improved coating, as well as a notable strengthening of the fiber, particularly interesting in the case of damaged hair.

[0006] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions that address these environmental challenges. In this In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a good carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin, and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0007] There is therefore a real need to develop cosmetic compositions, particularly for hair, which are capable of giving hair, especially damaged hair, improved cosmetic properties, in particular leading to an improvement in perceived performance in terms of fiber repair / nourishment.

[0008] The aim of the present invention is to propose a composition and a process for treating keratinous materials which provide a high level of cosmetic performance, particularly for damaged hair.

[0009] This objective is achieved with the present invention, which therefore relates in particular to a cosmetic composition, especially for hair, comprising:

[0010] - one or more fatty amines,

[0011] - one or more quaternary ammonium diesters,

[0012] - one or more phosphated starches, and

[0013] - one or more fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, preferably solid,

[0014] in which:

[0015] the weight ratio (R') between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of fatty amines on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1; and / or

[0016] the weight ratio (R”) between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1.

[0017] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention therefore makes it possible to provide advantageous cosmetic properties to hair, in particular damaged hair, such as suppleness, softness, a smooth visual and tactile character, ease of detangling, particularly on the most damaged hair.

[0018] The composition according to the invention provides a very good level of suppleness to the keratin fibers: the hair is more supple, less stiff; the hair has more movement, bounce, and appears more natural. After application of the composition, the hair instantly becomes supple and fluid; it appears more transformed, treated, and nourished.

[0019] A smooth feel is also observed, as well as a homogeneity of the coating and texture of the keratin fibers, from root to tip, which results in a more homogeneous feel. The hair appears more regular and has a particularly homogeneous coating, with no roughness to the touch. The irregularities of the damaged scales are no longer perceptible to the touch; the hair therefore appears, in effect, to be repaired and strengthened.

[0020] Moreover, the composition has good qualities of use, in particular an ease of distribution from root to tip.

[0021] In this application, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0022] - by "keratinous materials" means keratinous fibers (in particular the hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails) as well as the skin of the body and face, including the scalp;

[0023] - the term "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and can be substituted; and

[0024] - the boundaries of a domain of values ​​are included in that domain, in particular in the expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ...", expressions which can be substituted for one another. Fatty amines

[0025] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines.

[0026] The term "fatty amine" means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary, or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylated, or their salts, and comprising at least one C6-C3O hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C3O. Preferably, the fatty amines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated. Preferably, they are not siliconized (do not contain a Si-O group).

[0027] Advantageously, the fatty amines are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, their salts, and their mixtures.

[0028] Fatty amines include amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.

[0029] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0030] Fatty amidoamine is understood to mean an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain.

[0031] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated.

[0032] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may "quaternize" in situ).

[0033] Among the useful fatty amidoamines according to the invention, we can mention amidoamines of formula: RCONHR”N(R')2 in which:

[0034] - R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched, or a C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23, linear or branched;

[0035] - R' ' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 atoms of carbon, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.

[0036] Examples include the following fatty amidoamines: oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.

[0037] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; preferably stearamidopropyl dimethylamine.

[0038] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fatty amine(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 7% by weight, better 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0039] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fatty amidoamine(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0040] Better, the composition according to the invention may comprise the amidoamine(s) of formula: RCONHR”N(R')2 as defined above in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0041] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the fatty amine(s) selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof, in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 7% by weight, better 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] Even better, the composition according to the invention may comprise stearamidopropyl dimethylamine in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Quaternary ammonium diester

[0043] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters.

[0044] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters corresponding to formula (A):

[0045] in which:

[0046] - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon group in C7-C40, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

[0047] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, the C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and the C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a divalent alkyl group in CrC6, and

[0048] - X represents an anion.

[0049] Preferably, Ri and R2 are linear.

[0050] Preferably, Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon group, preferably linear, in C7-C29, better in C9-C2i, even better in Cn-C19.

[0051] Preferably, A and A' represent, independently of each other, a divalent alkyl group in C1-C4, better in CrC2, even better in C2>, in particular ethyl (-CH2-CH2-). Preferably, A and A' are identical.

[0052] Preferably R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, better in CrC2, even better a methyl group.

[0053] Preferably, R4 is chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C4, better in C1-C2, even better a methyl group; or the hydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C4, better in C2-C3, better the -CH2CH2OH group.

[0054] The anion X preferably represents a halide, in particular a chloride, bromide or iodide; an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate; an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate; an alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonate; a phosphate; a nitrate; a tosylate; an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate; any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function.

[0055] Preferably, the anion X represents a halide or an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate. Even better, the anion X- represents a chloride or a methosulfate group.

[0056] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) are such that: - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon group, preferably linear, in C7-C29, better in C9-C21, even better in C11-C19; - A and A' independently represent a divalent alkyl group in Cr C4, better in CrC2, even better in C2; preferably A and A' being identical;

[0057] - R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, better in Ci-C2, even better methyl; - R4 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, better in C1-C2, even better a methyl group; or a hydroxyalkyl group in C1-C4, better in C2-C3, better the -CH2CH2OH group;

[0058] - X represents a halide or an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate.

[0059] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) are such that:

[0060] - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a hydrocarbon group linear, saturated, in C9-C2i, better in C11-C19;

[0061] - A and A', independently represent a divalent alkyl group in CrC2; preferably A and A' being identical; and

[0062] - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from among the alkyl groups in CrC2 and the hydroxyalkyl groups in C2-C3,

[0063] - X represents a halide or an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate.

[0064] Preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) may be selected from the salts of dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, distearoylethyl dimonium, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, dioleoylethyl dimonium, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the salts may be halides, in particular chlorides, or methosulfates.

[0065] Particular examples include, alone or in mixtures, dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate; better still, dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof; even better, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate.

[0066] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the quaternary ammonium diester(s) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0067] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) as defined above, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the quaternary ammonium diester(s) selected from dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, dioleoylethyl dimonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium chloride, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof, in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 7% by weight, better 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0069] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0070] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of cationic surfactants, including the above fatty amines, the above quaternary ammonium diesters and possible additional cationic surfactants, ranging from 0.2 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.4 to 10% by weight, better from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Phosphated starch

[0071] The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more phosphated starches.

[0072] Starches can originate from all plant sources of starch, including cereals and tubers; more particularly, they can be starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, peas, oats, tapioca.

[0073] Starches can be modified chemically or physically, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

[0074] More specifically, these reactions can be carried out in the following way:

[0075] - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example, drying and cooking in a drum dryer);

[0076] - oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups in the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous solution of starch with sodium hypochlorite); - crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of starch molecules which will thus be linked together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups);

[0077] - esterification in an alkaline medium for the grafting of functional groups, in particular acyl in C1 to C6 (acetyl), hydroxyalkylated in C1 to C6 (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic.

[0078] Phosphated starches according to the invention can in particular be obtained by cross-linking starch with phosphorus compounds. The phosphorus compounds can be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

[0079] Phosphated starches according to the invention can thus be chosen from mono-starch phosphates (of the type Am-O-P0-(O-X)2), distarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am) or tri-starch (of the type Am-O-P0-(O-Am)2); with Am meaning starch and X designating in particular H or the associated salt (for example alkali or alkaline earth metal salt, ammonia, amines such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-aminopropanediol-1,2, ammonium salts from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline).

[0080] Examples include distarch phosphates such as the products offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the AVEBE Company or STRUCTURE ZEA of NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized maize distarch phosphate).

[0081] As examples of phosphate starches that can be used in the context of the invention, phosphate starches with hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl groups may also be mentioned, in particular phosphate starches with hydroxypropyl groups and phosphate starches with hydroxyethyl groups, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0082] Preferably, the phosphate starches can be chosen from, alone or in mixture, distarch phosphates, in particular compounds with INCI name: DISTARCH PHOSPHATE; and phosphate starches with hydroxypropyl groups, in particular compounds with INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE.

[0083] Even better, phosphate starches can be chosen from distarch phosphates, in particular compounds with INCI name: DISTARCH PHOSPHATE.

[0084] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the phosphated starch(es) in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0085] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the phosphate starch(es) selected from, alone or in mixture, distarch phosphates and phosphate starches with hydroxypropyl groups, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0086] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the phosphate starch(es) selected from distarch phosphates, in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 7% by weight, better from 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid and fatty alcohol ester

[0087] The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters; preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters. This compound will hereafter be referred to as a fatty ester or solid fatty ester.

[0088] Fatty means that the acid, or alcohol, comprises a total of at least 8 carbon atoms.

[0089] The term "solid" refers to a compound having a melting point strictly above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). For the purposes of this invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments.

[0090] The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one ester (or fatty ester) derived from an alcohol comprising at least 8 carbon atoms and a carboxylic acid comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.

[0091] Preferably, the alcohol from which the usable ester according to the invention is derived is a saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 28 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0092] Preferably, the carboxylic acid from which the usable ester according to the invention is derived is saturated, linear or branched, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 9 to 24 carbon atoms, or even from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably saturated monocarboxylic acids.

[0093] Preferably, the fatty esters according to the invention are chosen from carboxylic acid esters, preferably monocarboxylic acid, saturated, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and saturated monoalcohol esters, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0094] Better, the fatty esters according to the invention are preferably chosen from solid esters of carboxylic acid, preferably monocarboxylic acid, saturated, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and of saturated monoalcohol, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0095] Among the fatty esters that could be used, the following may be mentioned, alone or in mixtures:

[0096] - C8-C32 alkyl palmitates, particularly C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as that octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate;

[0097] - C8-C32 alkyl myristates, particularly C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate;

[0098] - C8-C32 alkyl stearates, particularly C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate.

[0099] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition comprises one or more fatty esters selected from myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, palmitate of Stearyl; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyle myristate; myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof. A particular example is the product with the INCI name: CETYL ESTERS.

[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the said fatty ester(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] Better still, the composition according to the invention comprises the said solid fatty esters in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0102] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said fatty esters selected from, alone or in mixture, C8-C32 alkyl palmitates, C8-C32 alkyl myristates, C8-C32 alkyl stearates, in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0103] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said fatty esters selected from myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate, myristyle myristate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Ratio

[0104] The composition according to the invention is characterized by the fact that it meets at least one of the following conditions; preferably it meets both (cumulative) conditions.

[0105] According to one condition, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines and one or more fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in contents such that the weight ratio (R') between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of fatty amines on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, this weight ratio R' can be between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being inclusive).

[0106] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amines and one or more solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in amounts such that the weight ratio between the total content of solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of fatty amines on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1; preferably between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the bounds being inclusive).

[0107] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty amidoamines and one or more solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in amounts such that the weight ratio between the total content of solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of fatty amidoamines on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1; preferably between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being inclusive).

[0108] According to another condition, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters and one or more fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in contents such that the weight ratio (R”) between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1. Preferably, this weight ratio R” can be between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being inclusive).

[0109] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more quaternary ammonium diesters and one or more solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, in contents such that the weight ratio between the total content of solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1; preferably between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.5 (the limits being inclusive). Additional fats

[0110] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more additional fatty substances, in particular selected from liquid fatty substances and solid fatty substances other than the fatty esters and cationic surfactants described above, as well as mixtures thereof. This or these fatty substances are non-siliconized (do not contain Si-O bonds).

[0111] Liquid fats can be chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols, triglyceride-type oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid fatty esters, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0112] Liquid hydrocarbons can be C6-C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from among the C8-C16 alkanes, in particular C10-C14. By way of example, hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

[0113] Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; examples include paraffin or petroleum jelly oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, and mixtures thereof.

[0114] Non-(poly)alkylated liquid fatty alcohols may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched, having from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Examples include octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

[0115] Triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin may be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado oils, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The liquid fatty esters are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated. They are advantageously esters of C1-C40 carboxylic acids, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the acid), said acid being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted, for example by one or more (in particular 1 to 4) hydroxyl (OH) groups; and of C1-C40 alcohols, in particular C2-C32, even better C3-C28, or even C4-C22 (the chain length indicated being that of the alcohol), said alcohol being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally substituted; preferably at least one of the alcohol or the acid being branched.

[0117] Among the liquid fatty esters that may be used, mention may be made in particular of the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, linear in Cl to C26 or branched in C3 to C26, the total number of carbons of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

[0118] Particular examples, alone or in mixtures, include ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate; isopropyl or ethyl myristate; isoamyl laurate; stearate isobutyl; isostearyl lactate, lauryl lactate, linoleyl lactate, oleyl lactate.

[0119] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin.

[0120] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the additional liquid fat(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0121] Additional solid fats, other than the fatty esters described above, may advantageously be chosen from, alone or in mixture, solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0122] Advantageously, the solid fats usable in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0123] By "fatty acids" is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, better from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, they are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

[0124] The solid fatty acids usable in the present invention are in particular selected from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0126] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0127] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0128] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be selected from, alone or in mixture, myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0129] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferred, the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof, such as cetostearyl alcohol; preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetostearyl alcohol.

[0130] A wax, as defined in the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid phase change, a melting point above approximately 40°C and up to 200°C, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. Generally, the size of the wax crystals is such that they diffract and / or scatter light, giving the composition a cloudy, more or less opaque appearance. By heating the wax to its melting point, it can be made miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by lowering the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax recrystallizes, a phenomenon detectable both microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).In particular, waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, or mineral origin, non-siliconized synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof. Examples include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; waxes from cork or sugar cane fibers, olive wax, rice bran wax, Camauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax, and sumac wax; absolute flower waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite, and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.Other examples include C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Also noteworthy is PM 500 polyethylene wax, marketed under the name Permalen 50-L polyethylene. Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils with linear or branched fatty chains, ranging from C8 to C32, can also be mentioned. These include isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably that manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- tetrastearate. (trimethyl 1,1,1-propane), in particular that sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by HETERENE. Waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by SOPHIM, can also be used. A C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can also be used as a wax, alone or in mixtures. Such a wax is notably sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", and "Kester Wax K 80 P®" by KOSTER KEUNEN. Microwaxes can also be used in the compositions of the invention;Examples include camauba microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by MICRO POWDERS; synthetic wax microwaxes, such as the one marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by MICRO POWDERS; microwaxes made from a mixture of camauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the one marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by MICRO POWDERS; polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by MICRO POWDERS; and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS. ;

[0131] Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which can be used in compositions according to the invention, are known; in particular, ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification may be mentioned.Particularly preferred compounds include 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-l,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4-triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, cetyl acid N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl)malonamide; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine shall be used.

[0132] Preferably, the solid fats are chosen from among the solid fatty alcohols.

[0133] When present, the composition according to the invention may include the additional solid fat(s) in a total quantity of 1 to 20% by weight, better 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 3 to 10% by weight, better still 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0134] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the additional solid fat(s) selected from solid fatty alcohols in a total quantity of 1 to 20% by weight, better 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 3 to 10% by weight, better still 4 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional liquid fat, in particular selected from triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, and at least one additional solid fat, in particular selected from solid fatty alcohols. Silicone

[0136] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more silicones, which may be chosen in particular from unmodified silicones and amino silicones, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0137] The silicones that may be used may be volatile or non-volatile; they may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention and may be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

[0138] Volatile silicones may be selected from those having a boiling point between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure), more particularly from:

[0139] i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / m ethylalkylsiloxane type with the chemical structure:

[0140] ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.106 m2 / s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

[0141] Among non-volatile silicones, one can cite, alone or in mixtures, polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, gums and resins of silicone, as well as organopolysiloxanes (or organomodified polysiloxanes, or organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes having in their structure one or more organofunctional groups, generally fixed by means of a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, amine groups, alkoxy groups and polyoxyethylenated, or polyoxypropylenated groups.

[0142] Organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly selected from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes.

[0143] Among organomodified silicones, organopolysiloxanes comprising: - polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene groups possibly containing C6-C24 alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, or alkyl(C12)-methicone-copolyols;

[0144] - substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, in particular groups C1-C4 aminoalkyl;

[0145] - thiol groups,

[0146] - alkoxylated groups,

[0147] - hydroxylated groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with functional hydroxyalkyl; - acyloxyalkyl groups;

[0148] - anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, or of the alkyl- type carboxylic or of the type 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate,

[0149] - hydroxyacylamino groups.

[0150] Silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly mention polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups and polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups known by the INCI name dimethiconol.

[0151] Polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from among polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10-2m2 / s at 25°C.

[0152] The silicones that may be used may be amine silicones. An amine silicone is defined as any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0153] The weight-average molecular masses of these amine-based silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are Styragel p columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 µl of a 0.5% wt. silicone solution is injected into the THF. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV measurement.

[0154] Preferably, the amine-based silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from:

[0155] a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): CH, ■ s — O CH OH 1 U x' oi U 'l HH (CH.)_ i “ “ (HAS) in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular weight by weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;

[0156] b) Amino silicones conforming to formula (B):

[0157] R'aG3.a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2.b)mO-SiG3.a-R'a in which:

[0158] - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in CrC8 for example methyl, or alkoxy in CrC8 for example methoxy, - a, same or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,

[0159] - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,

[0160] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;

[0161] - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in where q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quatemized chosen from the groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0162] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from among the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C) to (G):

[0163] (i) silicones designated "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" conforming to the formula (C): 1 O - 1 1 . ci 1: _ es 0Si(Œ3)^ (C) ffr 1 in 1 c! - n - in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0164] (ii) silicones of the following formula (D): 2: HH?)2 m in which:

[0165] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0166] - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Ci -C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0167] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0168] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0169] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.

[0170] (iii) the following formula (E) silicones: in which:

[0171] - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;

[0172] - Ri, R2, different, represent a C1-C4 hydroxy or alkoxy radical, one at minus the Ri or R2 radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

[0173] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0174] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0175] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.

[0176] (iv) silicones of the following formula (F): in which:

[0177] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0178] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

[0179] (v) silicones of the following formula (G): m in which:

[0180] - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0181] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

[0182] c) Amino silicones conforming to formula (H): in which:

[0183] - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 atoms of carbon, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl;

[0184] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in C1-C18 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0185] - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0186] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

[0187] - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0188] d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): in which:

[0189] - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

[0190] - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond;

[0191] - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a radical monovalent hydrocarbon having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, a -R6-NHCOR7 radical;

[0192] - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an acid salt organic, in particular acetate;

[0193] - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

[0194] e) Amino silicones of formula (J): in which:

[0195] - Ri, R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, denote a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

[0196] - R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group,

[0197] - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,

[0198] - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and

[0199] - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.

[0200] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0201] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -R'-N(H)-R-] or [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b -] in which:

[0202] - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, plus particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

[0203] - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, plus particularly between 5 and 30;

[0204] - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

[0205] - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

[0206] - R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2 , linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denotes a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2 radical - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' designates an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' designates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.

[0207] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0208] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0209] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.

[0210] We can cite in particular the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0211] g) alpha, omega-bis-amine silicones corresponding to the following formula (K): in which:

[0212] - the R radicals, independently of each other, represent an atom of hydrogen, an OH group or an alkyl group, linear or branched, in C1-C4,

[0213] - the radicals RI, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C6 alkyl group or a Ci-C6 aminoalkyl group;

[0214] - x is between 0 and 6; y is between 0 and 6, and

[0215] - n is such that the molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the amino silicon is included between 5,000 and 200,000 g / mol.

[0216] Preferably, the R radicals are identical and represent CH3 (methyl).

[0217] Preferably, RI, R2, R3 and R4, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, preferably linear saturated, in CrC4, better C2-C4, in particular ethyl; or an aminoalkyl group in C2-C4, in particular of structure -(CaH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

[0218] Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better x=3.

[0219] Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better between 2 and 4, even better y=3.

[0220] Preferably, x=y.

[0221] Preferably, n is such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is between 10,000 and 150,000 g / mol, or even between 15,000 and 100,000 g / mol.

[0222] More preferably, the amino silicone corresponds to the formula (K) in which the radicals R represent a methyl group, x = y = 3 and RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a hydrogen atom; it is then a bis-aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

[0223] Preferably, the silicone(s) are chosen from among the amino silicones, and in particular those of formula (A), (D), (E), (F), (G), (K) and their mixtures.

[0224] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the silicone(s) in a total content of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0225] When present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the amino silicone(s) in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients

[0226] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0227] The composition may also include a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents selected from C1-C4 alcohols, including monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; and mixtures thereof.

[0228] The pH of the composition according to the invention generally varies from 3 to 7, preferably from 3.5 to 6, preferably from 3.6 to 5.5.

[0229] The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more linear or branched carboxylic acids, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably, they conform to the formula (I) below:

[0230] in which:

[0231] - n is an integer between 0 and 2, better n=0 or 1, preferably n=0;

[0232] - A is a monovalent hydrocarbon group (when n=0) or a multivalent hydrocarbon group (when n is different from 0), saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched, cyclic, or even aromatic, comprising 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) and / or amino (NH2) groups.

[0233] In particular, one can cite, alone or in mixture, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, preferably tartaric acid.

[0234] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises said carboxylic acid(s), when present, in a total quantity of 0.05 to 5% by weight, better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0235] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more common cosmetic ingredients, in particular selected from among thickeners, gelling agents, sunscreens; moisturizing agents; anti-dandruff agents; anti-hair loss agents; antioxidants; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidizing bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct colorants; straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, pearlescent pigments, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; fillers; perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents. Those skilled in the art shall take care to select the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

[0236] The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly interesting application in the field of hair care, in particular for the cleansing and / or conditioning, especially the conditioning, of hair.

[0237] The hair compositions according to the invention are preferably conditioners or hair masks; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a conditioner, in particular a conditioner, capable of being rinsed out.

[0238] The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after being applied to keratinous materials, particularly hair. Rinsing with water may be optional, for example, after any application time. Preferably, it is rinsed after any application time.

[0239] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning, especially conditioning, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials, a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0240] Preferably, a step of rinsing the keratinous materials, for example with water, is implemented after the step of applying the composition according to the invention.

[0241] A drying step of the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular after the rinsing step, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer.

[0242] Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular washing and / or conditioning hair.

[0243] The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the examples that follow. Example 1

[0244] Cosmetic compositions according to invention A and B and comparative A' and B' are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as a percentage by weight of active material (g% MA).

[0245] [Tables 1] A (inv) A' (comp) B (inv) B' (comp) Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (i) 1 1.25 1.5 1.5 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (ii) 1.5 1.5 1.005 1.251 Cetyl esters 1.25 1 1.25 1.25 Distarch phosphate 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 5.7 5.7 4.5 4.5 Sunflower oil 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Tartaric acid 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Preservatives, fragrance Qs Qs Qs Qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Cetyl ester / (i) ratio 7.25 0.80 0.83 0.83 Cetyl ester / (H) ratio 0.83 0.67 1.244 0.999

[0246] Compositions are obtained that can be used for the care and conditioning of hair, for example as a rinse-out conditioner.

[0247] The cosmetic performance provided by compositions A and B according to the invention is evaluated in comparison with that provided respectively by the comparative compositions A' and B'.

[0248] Protocol:

[0249] Strands of Caucasian hair, previously sensitized by a bleaching treatment (SA20), are cleaned by applying a standard shampoo (DOP chamomile) at a rate of 0.3 g per gram of strand. The strands are then rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C). The composition to be tested is applied to the still-wet hair strands at a rate of 0.45 g per gram of strand. After a waiting period of 5 minutes, the strand is rinsed with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 L / h - temperature 35°C). After wringing, the strands are dried with a hairdryer and then evaluated.

[0250] The cosmetic performance of compositions A and A' is evaluated based on the criteria of smoothness to the touch. The cosmetic performance of compositions B and B' is evaluated based on the criterion of coating homogeneity.

[0251] Performance is assessed blindly by 5 trained evaluators, who assign a score from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very high performance), in increments of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

[0252] Evaluation of smoothness to the touch: the evaluator takes a strand of hair at the root and runs it between their fingers along its entire length to the tips. The more uniform and homogeneous the hair is from root to tip, the fewer rough edges it has, the less it catches the fingers, and the better its smoothness to the touch.

[0253] Coating assessment: The assessor takes the strand of hair in their hand, starts at the root, and slides it to the tips. The more even the deposit is felt along the fiber, the better the coating homogeneity.

[0254] The following results are obtained:

[0255] [Tables2] Composition A Composition A' Smooth to the touch Scores: 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 / 4 Average: 4 Standard deviation: 0 Scores: 3 / 2 / 3 / 3 / 3 Average: 2.8 Standard deviation: 0.4

[0256] [Tables3] Composition B Composition B' Coating Notes: 4 / 3 / 3 / 4 / 3 Average: 3.4 Standard deviation: 0.5 Notes: 2 / 1 / 2 / 3 / 2 Average: 2.0 Standard deviation: 0.7

[0257] It is observed that the compositions according to the invention provide better cosmetic properties on dry hair: the hair appears smoother and more even (sign of a better level of treatment); the coating is of better quality, one perceives a sheathed and regular fiber from root to tip. Example 2

[0258] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as a percentage by weight of active material (g% MA).

[0259] [Tables4] Example 2 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (i) 0.95 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (ii) 1 Cetyl esters 1.2 Distarch phosphate 1.5 Cetearyl alcohol 4.6 Sunflower oil 0.9 Amodimethicone 0.2 Tartaric acid 0.4 Preservatives, perfume Qs Water Qsp 100 Ratio cetyl ester / (i) 1.26 Cetyl ester ratio / (ii) 1.2

[0260] A composition is obtained that can be used for the care and conditioning of hair, for example as a rinse-out conditioner.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition, in particular for hair, comprising: - one or more fatty amines, - one or more quaternary ammonium diesters, - one or more phosphated starches, and - one or more fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, wherein: the weight ratio (R') between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of fatty amines on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1; and / or the weight ratio (R”) between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 1.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the fatty amines are selected from fatty amidoamines, in particular amidoamines of formula: RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C7-C23 alkyl radical, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably a linear or branched C7-C23 alkenyl radical; - R' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better, 3 carbon atoms;and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical; in particular among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the fatty amine(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 5% by weight,

4. better still, 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more quaternary ammonium diesters corresponding to formula (A): in which: - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a C7-C40 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C4 alkyl groups, C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl groups, and C1-C4 dihydroxyalkyl groups, - A and A' represent, independently of each other, a divalent alkyl group in C1-C6, and - X represents an anion; preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) being such that: - Ri and R2 independently represent a hydrocarbon group, preferably linear, in C7-C29, better in C9-C21, even better in Cl 1-C19; - A and A' independently represent a divalent alkyl group in C1-C4, better in CrC2, even better in C2; preferably A and A' being identical; - R3 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, better in CrC2, even better methyl; - R4 represents an alkyl group in C1-C4, better in C1-C2, even better a methyl group; or a hydroxyalkyl group in C1-C4, better in C2-C3, better the -CH2CH2OH group; - X represents a halide or an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate; preferably, the quaternary ammonium diester(s) of formula (A) being such that: - RietR2 represent, independently of each other, a linear, saturated hydrocarbon group, in C9-C21, better in C11-C19; - A and A', independently of each other, represent a divalent alkyl group in the C1-C2 configuration; preferably A and A' being identical; and - R3 and R4, independently of each other, are chosen from C1-C2 alkyl groups and C2-C3 hydroxyalkyl groups, - X represents a halide or an alkyl(C1-C4)sulfate; preferably the quaternary ammonium diester(s) being chosen from the salts of dicocoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, distearoylethyl dimonium, dioleoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, dioleoylethyl dimonium, dipalmitoylethyl dimonium, distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium, and mixtures thereof,

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the quaternary ammonium diester(s) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 7% by weight, better 0.3 to 5% by weight, better still 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total cationic surfactant content of 0.2 to 15% by weight, in particular 0.4 to 10% by weight, better 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the phosphate starch(es) are selected from mono-starch phosphates, distarch phosphates, tri-starch phosphates; phosphate starches with hydroxy(Cl-C4)alkyl groups, in particular phosphate starches with hydroxypropyl groups and phosphate starches with hydroxyethyl groups, and mixtures thereof; preferably from, alone or in mixture, distarch phosphates, in particular compounds with INCI name: DISTARCH PHOSPHATE; and phosphate starches with hydroxypropyl groups, in particular compounds with INCI name: HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the phosphated starch(es) in a total content of 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 7% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 5% by weight weight, or better yet 0.5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more esters, preferably solid, of carboxylic acid, preferably monocarboxylic acid, saturated, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; and of saturated monoalcohol, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 32 carbon atoms and more particularly from 10 to 24 carbon atoms; in particular selected from, alone or in mixture: - C8-C32 alkyl palmitates, in particular C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate; - C8-C32 alkyl myristates, particularly C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate;- C8-C32 alkyl stearates, particularly C9-C26, or even C10-C24, such as octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate.;

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the fatty acid and fatty alcohol ester(s) in a total amount from 0.05 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.3 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of fatty amines on the other hand, is between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, better between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1.

5.

12. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio between the total content of fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters on the one hand, and the total content of quaternary ammonium diesters on the other hand, is between 1 and 3, in particular between 1.05 and 2.5, preferably between 1.1 and 2, or even between 1.15 and 1

13. 1. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more additional fats, in particular selected from: - liquid fats, in particular chosen from triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin; and / or - solid fats, in particular chosen from solid fatty alcohols.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more silicones, in particular one or more amino silicones.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total content of between 65 and 98% by weight, preferably between 70 and 95% by weight, preferably between 75 and 92% by weight, even better between 80 and 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. A cosmetic treatment process, in particular for cleaning and / or conditioning, especially conditioning, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, in particular hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratinous materials, a cosmetic composition as defined in one of the preceding claims.