COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR IMPROVED PENETRATION

Abstract

COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR ENHANCED PENETRATION This disclosure relates to compositions, including cosmetic compositions, specifically for the care of keratinous materials. The cosmetic compositions include at least one skin penetration enhancer; at least three natural moisturizing factors; and hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid. The compositions are useful in processes for improving the appearance of keratinous materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR IMPROVED PENETRATION Disclosure domain

[0001] Cosmetic compositions offering enhanced penetration of active ingredients into the skin are proposed together with methods of use relating thereto. Context of disclosure

[0002] There is a wide variety of active skin care ingredients used in the field of cosmetics and dermatological compositions.

[0003] It is preferable that active skincare ingredients be absorbed by the skin or penetrate the skin as much as possible. However, skin absorption or skin penetration of such active skincare ingredients is not easy due to the skin's barrier function.

[0004] The inventors have overcome these challenges and propose a composition that enhances the skin penetration of a skincare active ingredient by using a skin penetration enhancer with the skincare active ingredient. Disclosure Summary

[0005] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that provide enhanced penetration of desired skin-active agents into adult human skin. The inventors have discovered that certain quantities and combinations of ingredients allow the cosmetic compositions to provide enhanced penetration of desired skin-active agents without the use of common penetration enhancers.

[0006] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions that include: a. at least hydroxyethylurea; b. at least three natural moisturizing factors; c. at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound; and

[0007] in which the formula is stable.

[0008] In some embodiments, at least one natural moisturizing factor is selected from the group consisting of glycine, serine, alanine, sodium PCA, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, the at least one natural moisturizing factor comprises at least three natural moisturizing factors including glycine, serine, and alanine. In some embodiments, the at least one natural moisturizing factor is present at a concentration of approximately 0.2% to approximately 9.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0009] In one or more embodiments, at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound is chosen from the group consisting of N,N-bis[2-]- aminosulfonic acid. hydroxyethyl-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, 3-[N-morpholino]propanesulfonic acid, piperazine-N,N'-bis[2-ethanesulfonic acid], 3-[N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino]-2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid, 2-[N-morpholino]ethanesulfonic acid, N-(2-acetamido)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, and N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methyl-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, and combinations thereof. In various embodiments, at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound is present from approximately 0.15 to approximately 4.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0010] In various embodiments, the pH of the composition is from about 4.5 to about 7.

[0011] In one or more embodiments, cosmetic compositions may include fatty compounds.

[0012] In one or more embodiments, cosmetic compositions may include polymers.

[0013] In one or more embodiments, cosmetic compositions may include surfactants.

[0014] In one or more embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may include water-soluble solvents.

[0015] In various embodiments, cosmetic compositions may include at least one skin-active agent. In some embodiments, the at least one skin-active agent is selected from antioxidants, free radical scavengers, moisturizers, whitening agents, lipid regulators, anti-acne agents, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-aging agents, emollients, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-inflammatories, cooling agents, healing agents, vascular-protective agents, antibacterials, antifungals, exfoliating agents, antiperspirants, deodorants, skin conditioners, desensitizing agents, immunomodulators and nourishing agents, moisture absorbers, soothing active ingredients and sebum-absorbing actives.

[0016] In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may contain: a. about 1.3 to about 25% by weight of hydroxyethyl urea; b. approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight of natural moisturizing factors; c. approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight of at least one acidic compound N-substituted aminosulfonic acid; and

[0017] in which the formula is stable and the penetration of hydroxyethyl urea is improved, and all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0018] In some embodiments, the cosmetic compositions may contain: a. from about 1.3 to about 25% by weight of hydroxyethyl urea; b. of about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of natural moisturizing factors; c. approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethane sulfonic acid; and

[0019] in which the formula is stable and the penetration of hydroxyethyl urea is improved, and all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0020] Cosmetic compositions are useful for treating the skin, especially facial skin.

[0021] Certain aspects of this disclosure may include a skin treatment process comprising the application of the cosmetic composition to the skin.

[0022] The cosmetic compositions of this disclosure offer unexpected and enhanced penetration of skin-active agents without the use of common penetration enhancers.

[0023] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the following detailed description are provided by way of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. Brief description of the drawing

[0024] This application contains at least one color drawing. Copies of this patent or patent application publication with color drawing(s) will be provided by the Office upon request and payment of the necessary fees.

[0025] The features and advantages of the general inventive concepts will become apparent from the detailed description that follows, made with reference to the accompanying drawings.

[0026] [Fig. 1] [Fig. 1]: ATR-FTIR data showing the distribution of protein content (skin) on untreated human skin (control) and after topical application of Products A, B and C (n=3) provided by the sponsor (layer 0) and after sequential tape strips (layers 1, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10)

[0027] [Fig.2] [Fig.2]: ATR-FTIR data showing the distribution of hydroxyethyl urea based on the 1060 cm-1 band area in untreated human skin (control), and skin samples treated with Products A, B and C.

[0028] Aspects and many related advantages of the disclosed subject matter will be more readily appreciated as they are better understood by referring to the following detailed description, when taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

[0029] The detailed description given above in relation to the accompanying drawings, where similar numbers refer to similar elements, is understood as a description of various embodiments of the disclosed subject matter and is not intended to represent the only embodiments. Each embodiment described in this disclosure is provided merely by way of example or illustration and does not This should not be interpreted as preferred or advantageous over other embodiments. The illustrative examples provided here are not intended to be exhaustive or to limit disclosure to the exact forms disclosed. Detailed description of the disclosure

[0030] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions offering enhanced penetration of desired skin-active agents into adult human skin. As noted above, the inventors have discovered that certain quantities and combinations of ingredients allow cosmetic compositions to offer enhanced penetration of desired skin-active agents without the use of common penetration enhancers.

[0031] This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions which include: a. at least one skin penetration enhancer; b. at least three natural moisturizing factors; c. at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound; and

[0032] in which the formula is stable. Skin penetration enhancers

[0033] Certain therapeutic or cosmetic compositions achieve epidermal penetration by using a carrier or vehicle that enhances skin penetration. These carriers or vehicles (which are compounds or mixtures of compounds) are often described as "penetration enhancers" or "skin enhancers." Typical penetration enhancers, which may optionally be excluded from the cosmetic composition, include sulfoxides (such as dimethyl sulfoxide, DMSO), azones (e.g., laurocapram), pyrrolidones (e.g., 2-pyrrolidone, 2P), alcohols and alkanols (ethanol or decanol), surfactants (also common in dosage forms), and terpenes.Some penetration enhancers are able to insert themselves between the hydrophobic tails of the bilayer, thereby disrupting their tightness, increasing their fluidity, and consequently leading to easier diffusion of lipid-based penetrants. The inventors surprisingly discovered that certain cosmetic compositions, according to the disclosure, provided improved penetration of active skin-based agents into adult human skin without requiring the use of certain penetration enhancers. Nevertheless, in some cases, it may be desirable to include penetration enhancers, such as those discussed here.

[0034] In accordance with the disclosure, cosmetic compositions are proposed that include one or more skin penetration enhancers. In exemplary embodiments, the skin penetration enhancers aid the penetration of the cosmetic composition into the skin. In other embodiments, the The composition may include one or more skin penetration enhancers selected from the group consisting of hydroxyethyl urea, sodium dilauramidoglutamide, lysine, glycols, dimethyl isosorbide, ethoxydiglycol, polysorbates, PEGs, and combinations thereof. Skin penetration enhancers may include, but are not limited to, hydroxyethyl urea.

[0035] Skin penetration enhancers may be provided in the composition in any appropriate quantity. More specifically, the total quantity of at least one skin penetration enhancer may be present in the cosmetic composition from approximately 1.5 to approximately 24% by weight. In other embodiments, cosmetic compositions include approximately 1 to approximately 22% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 18% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 24% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 22% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 18% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 24% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 22% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 20% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 18% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 24% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 22% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 20% by weight,approximately 5 to approximately 18% by weight, approximately 5 to approximately 15% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 24% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 22% by weight, approximately 8 to approximately 20% by weight, or approximately 8 to approximately 15% by weight, or any intermediate value, range, or sub-range of at least one skin penetration enhancer, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Natural moisturizing factors

[0036] The term “natural moisturizing factor” or “NMF” as used herein refers to a group of hygroscopic compounds present in the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis. These compounds act as humectants, drawing water from the atmosphere and binding it to the skin's surface. This process is essential for maintaining the skin's hydration, suppleness, and barrier function.

[0037] According to the disclosure, cosmetic compositions are proposed that include one or more natural moisturizing factors. In exemplary embodiments, natural moisturizing factors aid the penetration of the cosmetic composition into the skin. In other embodiments, the composition may include one or more natural moisturizing factors selected from the group consisting of glycine, alanine, serine, sodium PCA, and combinations thereof.

[0038] Non-limiting examples of natural moisturizing factors that may be mentioned in particular, alone or in mixtures, include free amino acids, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactates, sugars, inorganic acids, peptides, chloride, sodium, potassium, creatinine, uric acid, glucosamine, calcium, magnesium, citrate, formate, phosphate.

[0039] Natural moisturizing factors may be provided in the composition in any appropriate quantity. More specifically, the total quantity of at least one natural moisturizing factor may be present in the cosmetic composition from approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight. In other embodiments, the cosmetic compositions comprise approximately 0.1 to approximately 9.5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 9.0% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8.5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8.0% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.22 to approximately 9.5% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 9.0% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 8.5% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 8.0% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 9.5% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 9.0% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 8.5% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 8.0% by weight, approximately 0.4 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.4 to approximately 9.5% by weight. % by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 9,0% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8.5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8.0% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 9.0% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 8.0% by weight, or approximately 1.0 to approximately 7% by weight, or any intermediate value, range, or sub-range, of at least one natural moisturizing factor, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compounds

[0040] According to the various embodiments, the composition according to this disclosure comprises at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound.

[0041] Suitable N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compounds include, but are not limited to, N,N-bis[2-hydroxyethyl]-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, 3-[N-morpholino]propanesulfonic acid, piperazine-N,N'-bis[2-ethanesulfonic acid], 3-[N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino]-2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid, 2-[N-morpholino]ethanesulfonic acid, N-(2-acetamido)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, and N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methyl-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid. A mixture of these acids may also be used.

[0042] Preferably, the N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound is selected from N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, piperazine-N,N'-bis[2-ethanesulfonic acid], and one of their combinations. More preferably, the N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound is N-2-hydroxyethylpiperizine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, also called hydroxyethylpiperizine ethanesulfonic acid.

[0043] The inventors have discovered that the use of N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compounds, in particular ethanesulfonic acid hydroxyethylpiperizine, can improve stability in terms of minimizing pH variations and aiding the penetration of hydroxyethyl urea.

[0044] As a commercial product of N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compounds, hydroxyethylpiperizine ethanesulfonic acid sold under the name HEPES-LUV by the company TAIWAN HOPAX may be cited.

[0045] At least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound may be provided in the composition in any appropriate amount. More specifically, the total amount of at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound may be present in the cosmetic composition from approximately 0.1 to approximately 5.0% by weight. In other embodiments, cosmetic compositions include approximately 0.1 to approximately 4.8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4.6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4.4% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4.2% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 4.0% by weight, approximately 0.2 to approximately 5.0% by weight, 0.2 to approximately 4.8% by weight, 0.2 to approximately 4.6% by weight, 0.2 to approximately 4.4% by weight, 0.2 to approximately 4.2% by weight, 0.2 to approximately 4.0% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 5.0% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 4.8% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 4.6% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 4.4% by weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 4.2% by weight. weight, approximately 0.3 to approximately 4.0% by weight,approximately 0.4 to approximately 5.0% by weight, approximately 0.4 to approximately 4.8% by weight, approximately 0.4 to approximately 4.6% by weight, approximately 0.4 to approximately 4.4% by weight, approximately 0.4 to approximately 4.2% by weight, approximately 0.4 to approximately 4.0% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5.0% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4.8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4.6% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4.4% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4.2% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 4.0% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 5.0% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 4.8% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 4.6% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 4.4% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 4.2% by weight, approximately 1.0 to approximately 4.0% by weight, or any intermediate value, range, or subrange of at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Fatty compounds,

[0046] Examples of fatty compound(s) that may be incorporated into the skin treatment composition include a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty ether, a fatty acid, a wax, an oil, one of their derivatives, or a mixture thereof. Additional examples of fatty compounds worth mentioning include oils, mineral oil, alkanes (paraffins), fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, waxes, triglyceride compounds, and a mixture thereof. One or more fatty compounds may be included in the skin treatment composition as an emulsifier. For example, the fatty compound may be a fatty alcohol that is capable of emulsifying, or is used to emulsify, another ingredient. Although they are not specifically Once identified, some of the fatty compounds listed below can be used as emulsifiers. Other examples of fatty compounds are discussed below. i. Fatty ester(s)#

[0047] Skin treatment compositions may include one or more fatty compound(s) which is / are a fatty ester. For example, the fatty compound(s) may be chosen from among the dialkyl carbonates of formula: RiO(C=O)R2, in which Ri and R2 are independently linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chains having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or having 2 to 28 carbon atoms, or having 4 to 25 carbon atoms, or having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably one or more fatty carbonates chosen from a C14-15 dialkyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dihexyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dimethoxyphenyl phenyloxoethyl ethyl carbonate, dimethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate, and mixtures thereof.

[0048] In addition or alternatively, the fatty ester selected from cetyl ester, purcellin oil (cetearyl octanate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, a Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, hydroxylated esters, dicaprylyl carbonate, pentaerythritol esters, and a mixture thereof.Other fatty esters worth mentioning include polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 dioleate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 distearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 distearate, polyglyceryl-8 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 dipalmitate, polyglyceryl-10 behenate, and polyglyceryl-12 trilaurate. i. Fatty alcohol(s)#

[0049] Suitable fatty alcohols, if present, include those having a fatty alcohol group with a carbon chain of more than 8 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 8 to 50 carbon atoms, 8 to 40 carbon atoms, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, 8 to 22 carbon atoms, 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or 12 to 18 carbon atoms, including all intermediate ranges and subranges. In some cases, the fatty alcohol group has a carbon chain of 10 to 20 carbon atoms or 10 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty alcohols may be selected from polyethylene glycol ethers, such as those having a fatty alcohol group with a carbon chain of 12 to 16 or 12 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0050] The fatty alcohol portion is preferably hydrogenated (e.g., stearyl, lauryl, cetyl, cetearyl); however, the fatty alcohol may contain one or more double bonds (e.g., oleyl). Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylohexanol, isotridecyl alcohol, myricyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, fatty alcohols include at least one or may be selected from myristyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, and one of their mixtures.

[0051] Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. The saturated liquid fatty alcohols given by way of example may be branched and optionally contain in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. However, in some cases, fatty alcohols are acyclic. Non-limiting examples of saturated liquid fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and 2-hexyldecanol.

[0052] An unsaturated liquid fatty alcohol given by way of example may include in its structure at least one double or triple bond. For example, fatty alcohols may include several double bonds (such as 2 or 3 double bonds), which may be conjugated or non-conjugated. Unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched and may be acyclic or include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. Liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols may include, or be selected from, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, and undecylenyl alcohol.

[0053] Fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated fatty alcohols, for example, having about 1 to about 100 moles of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol. For example, alkoxylated fatty alcohols may be alkoxylated with about 1 to about 80 moles, about 2 to about 50, about 5 to about 45 moles, about 10 to about 40 moles, or 15 to about 35 moles, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, of an alkylene oxide per mole of alkoxylated fatty alcohol.

[0054] Examples of alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth (e.g., steareth-2, steareth-20, and steareth-21), laureth (e.g., laureth-4 and laureth-12), ceteth (e.g., ceteth-10 and ceteth-20), and ceteareth (e.g., ceteareth-2, ceteareth-10, and ceteareth-20). In at least one case, one or more of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols include steareth-20. In some cases, one or more of the alkoxylated fatty alcohols may consist exclusively of steareth-20.

[0055] Additional fatty alcohol derivatives that may optionally be suitable include methyl stearyl ether; 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether; stearyl acetate; cetyl propionate; the range of ceteth compounds such as ceteth-1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the range of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 to 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of stearic alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; ceteareth 1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl and stearyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol fractions present; the C1-C30 alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds just described;Polyoxyethylene ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylene ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9 steareth-3, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8 ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and mixtures thereof. i. Fatty ether(s)#

[0056] The fatty compounds may be selected from fatty ethers. For example, the skin treatment composition may include a polyoxyethylene cetyl / stearyl ether, a polyoxyethylene cholesterol ether, a polyoxyethylene laurate or dilaurate, a polyoxyethylene stearate or distearate, a polyoxyethylene lauryl or stearyl ether, a dicaprylyl ether, a dicetyl ether, a distearyl ether, or a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of suitable polyoxyethylene fatty ethers include, but are not limited to, polyoxyethylene cetyl / stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene cholesterol ether, polyoxyethylene laurate or dilaurate, polyoxyethylene stearate or distearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl or stearyl ether, and mixtures thereof, where the polyoxyethylene head group ranges from about 2 to about 100 groups.In some embodiments, fatty polyoxyethylene ethers include polyoxyethylene stearyl ether, polyoxyethylene myristyl ether, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether having from about 3 to about 10 oxyethylene units, and mixtures thereof. i. Fatty acid(s)#

[0057] In some cases, the fatty compounds may be selected from fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty acid esters, hydroxyl-substituted fatty acids, and alkoxylated fatty acids. The fatty acids may be linear- or branched-chain and / or may be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include diacids, triacids, and other multiple acids, as well as salts of these fatty acids. For example, the fatty acid may optionally include, or be selected from, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and other fatty acids. arachidonic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, sebacic acid and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the fatty acids are chosen from the group consisting of palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0058] Non-limiting examples of polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include those of the following formula: OR2 R1-(OGH2'cH-CH2O)n-R3

[0059] in which the average value of n is approximately 3 and R1, R2, and R3 can each independently be a fatty acid fraction or hydrogen, provided that at least one of the fractions R1, R2, and R3 is a fatty acid fraction. For example, R1, R2, and R3 can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of CrC40, CrC30, CrC25, or CrC20, CrC16, or CrC10.

[0060] Fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such fatty alcohol derivatives have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxysubstituted fatty acids, and any mixture thereof.Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glyceryl monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan tristearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, cocoate of PEG-15, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and any mixture thereof.Glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxy stearic acid, and mixtures thereof are preferred for use here. i. Wax(s)#

[0061] Fatty compounds may, in some cases, include or be selected from one or more waxes. Non-limiting examples of waxes in this category include, for example, synthetic wax, ceresin, paraffin, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, illipe butter, beeswax, carnauba wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin, lanolin derivatives, candelilla, cocoa butter, shellac wax, spermaceti, bran wax, capok wax, sugar cane wax, montan wax, whale wax, bay berry wax, flower wax acacia decurrens, vegetable waxes (such as sunflower seed wax (helianthus annuus), camauba, candelilla, ouricury or Japanese or cork fiber or sugar cane wax), or a mixture thereof. i. Oil(s)#

[0062] Skin treatment compositions include one or more oils. The oily component of NLC typically has a melting point below 45 °C, a molecular weight of at least 190 and a water solubility not exceeding 1 part in 99 parts of water.

[0063] Non-limiting examples include, but are not limited to, natural oils, such as coconut oil; hydrocarbons, such as mineral oil and hydrogenated polyisobutene; esters, such as a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate; diesters, such as propylene dipelargonate; and triesters, such as glyceryl trioctanoate. Other non-limiting examples of oils that may optionally be included in skin treatment compositions include isotridecyl isononanoate, PEG-4 diheptanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tridecyl neopentanoate, cetyl octanoate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl ricinoleate, cetyl stearate, cetyl myristate, coco-dicaprylate / caprate, decyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexyl neopentanoate, octyl palmitate, dioctyl malate, tridecyl octanoate, myristyle myristate,octododecanol, or combinations of octyldodecanol, acetylated lanolin alcohol, cetyl acetate, isododecanol, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, castor oil, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, triisocetyl citrate, sorbitan sesquioleate, Ci0-Ci8 triglycerides, caprylic / capric triglycerides, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, glyceryl triacetyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, glyceryl trioctanoate, hydrogenated castor oil, linseed oil, mink oil, olive oil, palm oil, illipe butter, rapeseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, tallow, tricaprine, trihydroxystearine, triisostearine, trilaurin, trilinolein, trimyristin, triolein, tripalmitin, tristearin, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, cholesterol, or combinations thereof.

[0064] In addition or alternatively, the oil may be chosen from plant and / or vegetable oils. Non-limiting examples of plant or vegetable oils include acai oil, almond oil, aloe vera oil, andiroba oil, annatto oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, borage oil, Brazil nut oil, buriti oil, camellia oil, coffee oil, copaiba oil, emu oil, passion fruit oil, almond oil, ricinus communis (castor) oil, coconut oil, grapeseed oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip oil, ajwain oil, angelica root oil, anise oil, argan oil, asafetida, balsamic oil, basil oil, berry oil, bergamot oil, black pepper essential oil, buchu oil, birch oil, camphor, cannabis oil, caraway oil, cardamom seed oil, carrot seed oil, chamomile oil, calamus root oil, cinnamon oil, lemongrass oil, clary sage, clove leaf oil, coffee, coriander, balsam tansy oil, cranberry seed oil, cubeb, cumin oil, cypress, cypriol, curry leaf, davana oil, dill oil, elecampane, eucalyptus oil, fennel seed oil, fenugreek oil, fir, frankincense oil, galangal, geranium oil, ginger oil, goldenrod, grapefruit oil, grapeseed oil, oil of henna, helichrysum, horseradish oil, hyssop, Idaho tansy, jasmine oil, juniper berry oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, Elionurus citreus, marjoram, melaleuca,lemon balm oil, mountain savory, mugwort oil, mustard oil, myrrh oil, myrtle, neem oil, neroli, nutmeg, orange oil, oregano oil, iris oil, palo santo, parsley oil, patchouli oil, perilla oil, pennyroyal oil, peppermint oil, petitgrain, pine oil, plum oil, ravensara, red cedar, Roman chamomile, rose oil, rosehip oil, rosemary oil, rosewood oil, sandalwood oil, sassafras oil, savory oil, schisandra oil, spikenard, spruce, star anise oil, tangerine, tarragon oil, tea tree oil, thyme oil, hemlock oil, turmeric, valerian, vetiver oil, thuja giant pea, Canadian wintergreen, yarrow oil, ylang-ylang and zedoary oil.

[0065] Non-limiting examples of liquid triglycerides and vegetable oils include Alexandrian laurel oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, barley oil, borage seed oil, calendula oil, cinnamon oil, rapeseed oil, caprylic / capric castor oil, coconut oil, corn oil, cottonseed oil, cottonseed oil, evening primrose oil, linseed oil, peanut oil, hazelnut oil, glycereth triacetate, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl triundecanoate, hemp oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, corn germ oil, oil of Cucurbits, millet oil, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, olive oil, palm oil, passionflower oil, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, poppy oil, propylene glycol ricinoleate, rapeseed oil,Rye oil, safflower oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, sunflower oil, hedge mustard oil, syzygium aromaticum oil, tea tree oil, walnut oil, wheat germ glycerides, and wheat germ oil. Thickening agent(s)

[0066] The skin treatment compositions described herein may optionally include a thickening agent. The amount of thickening agents may vary, but is typically from about 0.01 to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the skin treatment composition. In some cases, the amount of fatty compounds present in skin treatment compositions is approximately 0.1 to 20% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 18% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 16% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 14% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 12% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 7% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 6% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight;about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 18% by weight, about 0.5 to about 16% by weight, about 0.5 to about 14% by weight, about 0.5 to about 12% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 7% by weight, about 0.5 to about 6% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight; from about 1 to about 20% by weight, from about 1 to about 18% by weight, from about 1 to about 16% by weight, from about 1 to about 14% by weight, from about 1 to about 12% by weight, from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 7% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight;from about 2 to about 20% by weight, from about 2 to about 18% by weight, from about 2 to about 16% by weight, from about 2 to about 14% by weight, from about 2 to about 12% by weight, from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 7% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 5% by weight; from about 3 to about 20% by weight, from about 3 to about 18% by weight, from about 3 to about 16% by weight, from about 3 to about 14% by weight, from about 3 to about 12% by weight, from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight, from about 3 to about 7% by weight, from about 3 to about 6% by weight, from about 3 to about 5% by weight;from about 4 to about 20% by weight, from about 4 to about 18% by weight, from about 4 to about 16% by weight, from about 4 to about 14% by weight, from about 4 to about 12% by weight, from about 4 to about 10% by weight, from about 4 to about 8% by weight, from about 4 to about 7% by weight, from about 4 to about 6% by weight, from about 4 to about 5% by weight; from about 5 to about 20% by weight, from about 5 to about 18% by weight, from about 5 to about 16% by weight, from about 5 to about 14% by weight, from about 5 to about 12% by weight, from about 5 to about 10% by weight, or from about 5 to about 8% by weight, from about 5 to about 7% by weight, or from about 5 to about 6% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the skin treatment composition.

[0067] The thickening agent(s) may be selected from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotia gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, and hyaluronic acid. In addition, one or more thickening agents may include polymeric thickening agents selected from the group consisting of an ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, an ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / VP, a sodium polyacrylate, acrylate copolymers, a polyacrylamide, a carbomer, and a C10-30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymer. In some cases, the skin treatment composition includes ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate and / or sodium polyacrylate. Suitable thickening agents can be found in US patent application no. 16 / 731 654, which is incorporated herein in its entirety for all purposes.

[0068] Many thickening agents are water-soluble and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the skin treatment composition is dispersed / dissolved in water. The aqueous solution can be heated and cooled, or neutralized, to form the gel, if necessary. The thickener can be dispersed / dissolved in a soluble aqueous solvent that is present in water, for example, ethyl alcohol when dispersed / dissolved in water.

[0069] Specific types of thickening agents that may be cited include the following:

[0070] One or more thickening agents may optionally be included in the skin treatment compositions of this disclosure. Thickening agents may be referred to as "thickeners" or "viscosity-modifying agents." Thickening agents are typically included to increase the viscosity of skin treatment compositions. However, in some cases, certain thickening agents provide additional and surprising benefits to skin treatment compositions.Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include crosslinked polyacrylate polymers or crosslinked polyacrylate polymers, cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid polymers, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers / copolymers, a C8-24 hydroxyl-substituted aliphatic acid, a C8-24 conjugated aliphatic acid, sugar fatty acid esters, polyglyceryl esters, and mixtures thereof. Specific types of thickening agents that may be cited include the following:

[0071] homopolymer or copolymer based on carboxylic acid or carboxylate, which may be linear or cross-linked:

[0072] These polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available polymers include those sold under the trade names Carbopol, Acrysol, Polygel, Sokalan, Carbopol Ultrez, and Polygel. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid crosslinked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in BF Goodrich's Carbopol 900 series (e.g., Carbopol 954). In addition, other suitable carboxylic acid polymeric agents include Ultrez 10 (BFGoodrich) and C10-30 alkyl acrylate copolymers with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, or one of their short-chain esters (i.e., a Cl-4 alcohol), wherein the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as C10-C30 acrylate / alkyl acrylate crosslinked polymers and are commercially available from BF Goodrich under the names Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, Pemulen TR-1, and Pemulen TR-2.

[0073] Other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid or carboxylate agents include C5-C10 alkyl acrylic acid-acrylate copolymers, acrylic acid-maleic anhydride copolymers, and polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6. Polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 is available as a raw material known as Seppic's SEPIMAX ZEN.

[0074] Another suitable carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer agent includes acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylates copolymer, a cationic acrylates copolymer (or a quaternary ammonium compound), available as a raw material known under the Seppic brand name SIMULQUAT HC 305.

[0075] In some embodiments, the polymer thickening agents of carboxylic acid or carboxylate useful here are those selected from carbomers, C10-C30 alkyl acrylate / acrylate crosslinked polymers, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Celluloses:

[0077] Non-limiting examples of celluloses include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, methyl hydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (e.g., carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate). In addition, in some cases, cellulose is preferably hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC).

[0078] Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and copolymers:

[0079] Non-limiting examples include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) / vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP / VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) / eicosene copolymer, PVP / hexadecene copolymer, etc. Commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidone includes Luviskol K30, K85, and K90, available from BASF. Commercially available vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymers include Luviskol VA37 and VA64, available from BASF; vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide, and vinylimidazole copolymer (INCI: VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) is commercially available from BASF under the name Luviset. In some cases, PVP and the PVP / VA copolymer are preferred.

[0080] Sucrose esters:

[0081] Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or dipalmitate, sucrose mono- and distearate, sucrose mono-, di- or trioleate, sucrose mono- or dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octooleate, and mixed esters, such as sucrose palmitate / stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] Polyglyceryl esters:

[0083] Non-limiting polyglycerol esters (polyglyceryl esters) of fatty acids include those of the following formula: OR2 rMochJch-ch2ovr 3

[0084] in which n is between 2 and 20 or between 2 and 10 or between 2 and 5, or is equal to 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R1, R2 and R3 can each independently be a fatty acid fraction or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R1, R2, and R3 is a fatty acid fraction. For example, R1, R2 and R3 can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of Ci-C40, Ci-C30, Ci-C25, or Cr C2o, Ci-Ci6pu C1-C10. Furthermore, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglycerol esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate / caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, laurate of polyglyceryl-10, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof.

[0085] Erasers:

[0086] Non-limiting examples of gums include gum arabic, tragacanth gum, karaya gum, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, carob gum, Seneca gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, etc. Emulsifiers

[0087] The cosmetic composition includes one or more emulsifiers. Emulsifiers include polymeric and non-polymer emulsifiers. Furthermore, emulsifiers may be non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric, or a combination thereof. Cationic emulsifiers may also be useful, but generally, non-ionic and anionic emulsifiers are preferred.

[0088] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more polymeric emulsifiers, one or more non-ionic emulsifiers, or one of their combinations.

[0089] Non-limiting examples of polymeric emulsifiers include poloxamers, alkoxylated surfactants, polyacrylamide, acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers, or combinations thereof. As their name suggests, polymeric emulsifiers provide emulsifying properties to the cosmetic composition. However, in some cases, in addition to their emulsifying properties, polymeric emulsifiers have an additional influence on other characteristics of the cosmetic composition; for example, polymeric emulsifiers can thicken the cosmetic composition, i.e., act as a thickening agent by increasing the viscosity of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, a polymeric emulsifier may have film-forming properties in addition to its emulsifying properties.In cases where a polymeric emulsifier also provides thickening or behaves as a film-forming polymer, only one compound (one polymer / copolymer) will serve solely as either a polymeric emulsifier or a film-forming polymer. A single compound (one polymer / copolymer) cannot simultaneously serve as both a polymeric emulsifier and a film-forming polymer when the cosmetic composition includes both a polymeric emulsifier and a film-forming polymer.

[0090] Poloxamers are nonionic triblock copolymers composed of a central hydrophobic chain of polyoxypropylene (poly(propylene oxide)) flanked by two hydrophilic chains of polyoxyethylene (poly(ethylene oxide)). The term "poloxamer emulsifier" refers to a nonionic triblock copolymer of polyethylene oxide-propylene oxide-ethylene oxide (PEG-PPG-PEG). Poloxamer emulsifiers include nonionic triblock copolymers such as polyoxyethylene-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene (PEO-PPO-PEO) characterized by a central hydrophobic polyoxypropylene chain (poly(propylene oxide)) flanked by two hydrophilic polyoxyethylene chains (poly(ethylene oxide)). Examples of nonionic triblock copolymers may include a structure according to formula (A):

[0091] [Chem.l]

[0092] wherein each a is independently an integer in the range of 2-130, and b is an integer in the range of 15-67. In some embodiments, a is in the range of 50-100 and b is in the range of 20-40. In some embodiments, a is in the range of 70-90 and b is in the range of 25-30. Non-limiting examples of poloxamers include poloxamer 188, also known as Pluronic® F-68, or KOLLIPHOR® P188, for example, in which a=80 and b=27. Other poloxamers include poloxamer 338, also known as Synperonic® PE / F108, poloxamer 407, also known as Synperonic® PE / F127, poloxamer 331, also known as Synperonic® PE / L101.

[0093] The terms "PLURONIC® F68", "PLURONIC F-68", or "PF-68", also known as poloxamer 188, refer to a poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block copolymer with an average molecular weight, Mn avg., of 8350-8400. The term "PLURONIC® F127", also known as poloxamer 407, designates a triblock copolymer consisting of a central hydrophobic polypropylene glycol block flanked by two hydrophilic polyethylene glycol (PEG) blocks. The approximate length of the two PEG blocks is 101 repeating units, while the approximate length of the propylene glycol block is 56 repeating units. It is also known by the Croda trade name Synperonic® PE / F 127. The term "PLURONIC® F108" refers to poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block poly(ethylene glycol). The term "PLURONIC® P103" refers to poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block poly(ethylene glycol).The term “PLURONIC® P104”. refers to poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block poly(ethylene glycol). The term "PLURONIC® P123" refers to poly(ethylene glycol)-block-poly(propylene glycol)-block poly(ethylene glycol).

[0094] Non-limiting examples of poloxamers include poloxamer-101, poloxamer-105, poloxamer-105 benzoate, poloxamer-108, poloxamer-122, poloxamer-123, poloxamer-124, poloxamer-181, poloxamer-182, poloxamer-182 dibenzoate, poloxamer-183, poloxamer-184, poloxamer-185, poloxamer-188, poloxamer-212, poloxamer-215, poloxamer-217, poloxamer-231, poloxamer-234, poloxamer-235, poloxamer-237, poloxamer-238, the poloxamer-282, poloxamer-284, poloxamer-288, poloxamer-331, poloxamer-333, poloxamer-334, poloxamer-335, poloxamer-338, poloxamer-401, poloxamer-402, poloxamer-403 and poloxamer-407.

[0095] The lengths of the polymer blocks can be customized, and consequently, there are many different poloxamers with slightly different properties. Poloxamer copolymers are commonly designated with the letter "P" (for poloxamer) followed by three digits. The first two digits multiplied by 100 give the approximate molecular mass of the polyoxypropylene core, and the last digit multiplied by 10 gives the percentage of polyoxyethylene content (e.g., P407 = Poloxamer with a polyoxypropylene molecular mass of 4,000 g / mol and a polyoxyethylene content of 70%). For the trade names Pluronic® and Synperonic® poloxamers, the coding of these copolymers begins with a letter to define their physical form at room temperature (L = liquid, P = paste, F = flake (solid)) followed by two or three digits.The first digit (two digits in a three-digit number) of the numerical designation, multiplied by 300, indicates the approximate molecular weight of the hydrophobic chain; and the last digit, multiplied by 10, gives the percentage of polyoxyethylene content (for example, F-68 indicates a polyoxypropylene molecular weight of 1800 g / mol and a polyoxyethylene content of 80%). An example of a poloxamer is Pluronic F-68®. PF-68 is a nonionic triblock copolymer of polyoxyethylene oxide-polyoxypropylene oxide-polyoxyethylene oxide (PEO-PPO-PEO). Commercially available poloxamers include PLURONIC® emulsifiers such as PLURONIC® F68, F77, F87, F98, F108, F127, P103, P104, P105, and P123.

[0096] Alkoxylated emulsifiers include C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyethoxylated fatty alcohols, C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated compounds having preferably 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerol compounds preferably having 2 to 16 moles of glycerol; and their combinations. Polyoxyethylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols can be selected from among C12-C18 fatty alcohols, including polyoxyethylenated lauryl, cetyl, myristic, and stearyl alcohols with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 2 EOs (Ceteth-2) (HLB 5.3), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 6 EOs (Ceteth-6) (HLB 11.1), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 10 EOs (Ceteth-10) (HLB 12.9), polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 20 EOs (Ceteth-20) (HLB 15.7), and polyoxyethylenated cetyl alcohol with 24 EOs (Ceteth-24) (HLB 15.7). 16.3), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 2 EOs (laureth-2) (HLB 6.1), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 3 EOs (laureth-3) (HLB 8), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 4 EOs (laureth-4) (HLB 9.4), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 7 EOs (laureth-7) (HLB 12.3), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 9 EOs (laureth-9) (HLB 13.6), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 10 EOs (laureth-10) (HLB 13.9), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 12 EOs (laureth-12) (HLB 14.6), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 21 EOs (laureth-21) (HLB 15.5), polyoxyethylenated lauryl alcohol with 23 EOs (laureth-23) (HLB 16.3), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 2 EOs (steareth-2) (HLB 4.9), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 10 EOs (steareth-10) (HLB 12.4), stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 20 EO (Steareth-20) (HLB 15.2), polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 21 EO (Steareth-21) (HLB 15.5).

[0097] Polyoxyethylenated (preferably C12-C18) C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be selected from polyoxyethylenated C12-C18 fatty acid esters, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl or stearic acids, of sorbitan containing in particular 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, such as: polyoxyethylenated (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-21) (HLB 13.3), polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate-20) (HLB 16.7), polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (Polysorbate-40) (HLB 15.6), polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate (Polysorbate-60) (HLB 14.9), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (4 OE) (Polysorbate-61) (HL9.6), polyoxyethylenated sorbitan monooleate (20-OE) ) (Polysorbate-80) (HLB 15).In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more non-ionic emulsifiers selected from C8-C30 (preferably C12-C18) polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, preferably C12-C18 polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters.

[0098] C8-C30 polyglycerol fatty acid esters may be selected from C12-C18 polyglycerol fatty acid esters, in particular of lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic or isostearic acid, having from 2 to 16 mol of glycerol, such that: polyglyceryl-2 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-4 laurate, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate; polyglyceryl-2 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-4 myristate, polyglyceryl-5 myristate, polyglyceryl-6 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate; polyglyceryl-2 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-6 palmitate, polyglyceryl-10 palmitate; polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 isostearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-5 isostearate, polyglyceryl-6 isostearate, polyglyceryl-10 isostearate; polyglyceryl-2 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-4 stearate, polyglyceryl-5 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-8 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and their combinations.

[0099] In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric emulsifier is based on acrylamido methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic portion containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 22 carbon atoms; furthermore, the hydrophobic radical may also comprise at least one alkylene oxide motif and in particular a polyoxyalkylene chain.The polyoxyalkylene chain can be formed from ethylene oxide motifs and / or propylene oxide motifs and even more particularly be formed solely from ethylene oxide motifs, preferably, at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer is an acrylic or methacrylic ester of ethoxylated alcohols RO-(CH2CH2O)mH, where R is an alkyl radical having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and m is a number from 3 to 35, and CH2=CH-COO-(CH2CH2-COO)nX, where n is a number from 0 to 10 and X is a counterion and is preferably H+, Na+ and / or NH4+. In the case of copolymers, one or more structural motifs based on the following comonomers are preferably present in the copolymers: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamide, dimethylacrylamide, vinylpyrrolidone (VP), hydroxyethyl acrylate and hydroxyethyl methacrylate.More specifically, the suitable polymeric emulsifier may be a copolymer of AMPS and (meth)acrylic ester of ethoxylated fatty alcohol in C8-C30, or in C10-C30, or in C12-C22, or in C12-C18. In some embodiments, the suitable associative polymer may be a copolymer of AMPS and (meth)acrylic ester of ethoxylated fatty alcohol in C8-C30, or in C12-C30, or in C12-C22, or in C12-C18, wherein the ethoxylated fatty alcohol comprises in each case from 5 to 35, in particular from 7 to 30, more particularly from 7 to 25 ethylene oxide (EO) radicals. Suitable AMPS copolymers include, for example, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25-methacrylate copolymer such as Clariant's Aristoflex® HMB, and ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer. such as Clariant's Aristoflex® BLV, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 crosslinked polymer such as Clariant's Aristoflex HMS®, Clariant's ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 copolymer such as Aristoflex® SNC, the ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / laureth-7 copolymer such as Aristoflex® LNC.

[0100] In a particularly preferred embodiment, at least one polymeric emulsifier is selected from polyacrylamide and acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers such as acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (e.g., Sepineo® P600), acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / acrylic acid copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / carboxyethyl acrylate crosslinked polymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / laureth-7 methacrylate copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer ammonium / ammonium stearth-8 methacrylate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, dimethylacrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate crosslinked polymer,HEA / sodium scryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, sodium acrylate / acryloyldimethyltaurate / dimethylacrylamide crosslinked copolymer, sodium acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, sodium acrylate / acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate crosslinked copolymer, sodium acryloyl dimethyltaurate / PEG-8 diacrylate copolymer, sodium acryloyl dimethyltaurate / acrylamide / VP copolymer, sodium acryloyl dimethyltaurate / methacrylamidolauric acid copolymer, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP crosslinked polymer, Sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate, or combinations thereof. Particularly preferred polymeric emulsifiers include polyacrylamide, the acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, or one of their combinations.

[0101] Non-limiting examples of non-ionic emulsifiers include poloxamer emulsifiers; polysorbates; alkyl polyglucosides; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated (polyglyceryl-2 isostearate); ethoxylated fatty esters; glyceryl esters of fatty acids; fatty alcohol ethoxylates; alkylphenol ethoxylates; fatty acid alkoxylates; and combinations thereof.

[0102] In various embodiments, the non-ionic emulsifiers are selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl poly(ethylene oxide) ethers, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of sorbitan, alkyl and polyalkyl glycosides or polyglycosides, in particular alkyl and polyalkyl glucosides or polyglucosides, alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sucrose, optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of glycerol, and optionally polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of glycerol, and combinations thereof.Preferably, non-ionic emulsifiers may be selected from alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide), alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of poly(ethylene oxide), optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated esters of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated ethers of sorbitan, optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated esters of glycerol, and optionally alkyl and polyalkyl polyoxyethylenated ethers of glycerol, and combinations thereof.

[0103] Non-limiting examples of sorbitan fatty acid esters include sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan oleate.

[0104] In a preferred embodiment, at least one of the one or more nonionic emulsifiers is a sorbitan emulsifier, e.g., sorbitan caprylate, sorbitan cocoate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan diisosterate, sorbitan isostere, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan olivate, sorbitan palmitate, sorbitan palmate, sorbitan sesquicaprylate, sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan sesquistearate, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan coconut, PEG-200 sorbitan PEG-40, sorbitan isostearate PEG-2, sorbitan isostearate PEG-5, sorbitan isostearate PEG-20, sorbitan laurate PEG-40, sorbitan laurate PEG-10, sorbitan laurate PEG-44, sorbitan laurate PEG-750, sorbitan laurate-8 PEG-3 sorbitan oleate, PEG-6 sorbitan oleate, PEG-20 sorbitan oleate, PEG-40 sorbitan oleate, PEG-80 sorbitan palmitate, PEG-3 sorbitan stearate,PEG-4 sorbitan stearate, PEG-6 sorbitan stearate, PEG-40 sorbitan stearate, PEG-60 sorbitan stearate, Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 21, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 61, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 81 and Polysorbate 85.

[0105] Non-limiting examples of alkyl and polyalkyl esters of poly(ethylene oxide) include those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with an ethylene oxide (EO) number of motifs ranging from 2 to 200. Examples include (INCI name), PEG-20 stearate, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 laurate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-150 distearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-9 cocoate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-10 oleate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

[0106] Non-limiting examples of alkyl and polyalkyl poly(ethylene oxide) ethers include those containing at least one C8-C30 alkyl radical, with a number of ethylene oxide (EO) motifs ranging from 3 to 200. Examples include laureth-3, laureth-4, laureth-7, laureth-23, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, ceteth-15, ceteth-23, oleth-5, oleth-7, oleth-10, oleth-12, oleth-20, oleth-50, phytosterol 30 EO, steareth-6, steareth-20, steareth-21, steareth-40, steareth-100, beheneth-100, ceteareth-7, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-15, ceteareth-25, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3, C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7 and trideceth-10, and their combinations.

[0107] Non-limiting examples of polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan include those with an ethylene oxide (EO) number from 0 to 100. Examples include sorbitan laurate, sorbitan laurate 4 EO, sorbitan laurate 20 EO (polysorbate 20), sorbitan palmitate 20 EO (polysorbate 40), sorbitan stearate 20 EO (polysorbate 60), sorbitan oleate 20 EO (polysorbate 80), and sorbitan trioleate 20 EO (polysorbate 85). Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated alkyl and polyalkyl esters of sorbitan are those with an ethylene oxide (EO) number from 0 to 100.

[0108] The cosmetic composition may include one or more alkanolamides. Non-limiting examples of alkanolamides include fatty acid alkanolamides. Fatty acid alkanolamides may be fatty acid monoalkanolamides, fatty acid dialkanolamides, or fatty acid isoalkanolamides, and may have a C2-C8 hydroxyalkyl group (the C2-C8 chain may be substituted by one or more -OH groups). Non-limiting examples include fatty acid diethanolamides (DEA) or fatty acid monoethanolamides (MEA), fatty acid monoisopropanolamides (MIPA), fatty acid diisopropanolamides (DIPA), and fatty acid glucamides (acyl glucamides). Non-limiting examples of fatty alkanolamides include those formed by the reaction of an alkanolamine and a C6-C36 fatty acid, for example: oleic acid diethanolamide, myristic acid monoethanolamide, soybean fatty acid diethanolamide, stearic acid ethanolamide,oleic acid monoisopropanolamide, linoleic acid diethanolamide, stearic acid monoethanolamide (Stearamide MEA), behenic acid monoethanolamide, isostearic acid monoisopropanolamide (Isostearamide MIPA), erucic acid diethanolamide, ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide, coconut fatty acid monoisopropanolamide (Cocamide MIPA), coconut acid monoethanolamide (Cocamide MEA), palm kernel acid diethanolamide, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, lauric diethanolamide, polyoxyethylene coconut fatty acid monoethanolamide, lauric monoethanolamide, lauric acid monoisopropanolamide (Lauramide MIPA), myristamide monoisopropanolamide MIPA), coconut fatty acid diisopropanolamide (cocamide DIPA), and their combinations. In some cases, fatty acid alkanolamides may preferably be chosen from cocamide MIPA, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, cocamide DIPA, and their combinations.

[0109] The one or more non-ionic emulsifiers may include one or more acyl glucamides, for example, acyl glucamides having a carbon chain length of 8 to 20. Non-limiting examples include lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / capryl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, capryl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, lauryl methyl glucamide, oleoyl methyl glucamide oleate, stearoyl methyl glucamide stearate, sunflower methyl glucamide and tocopheryl succinate methyl glucamide.

[0110] The cosmetic composition may include one or more alkyl polyglucosides. Non-limiting examples of alkyl polyglucosides include alkyl polyglucosides corresponding to the following formula: Rl-O-(R2O)nZ(x)

[0111] wherein RI is an alkyl group having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

[0112] - R2 is an ethylene or propylene group;

[0113] - Z is a saccharide group with 5 to 6 carbon atoms;

[0114] - n is an integer from 0 to 10; and

[0115] - x is an integer from 1 to 5.

[0116] Preferred alkyl polyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl / capryl glucoside and sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate. Typically, at least one alkyl polyglucoside compound is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, or combinations thereof.

[0117] In various embodiments, the non-ionic emulsifiers can be selected from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C8-C24 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with an alkylene oxide number of 10 to 200, and more preferably 10 to 100; polyethylene glycol esters of one or more C8-C24 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with 10 to 200 alkylene oxides, and more preferably 10 to 100; sorbitol esters of one or more C8-C24 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with 10 to 200 alkylene oxides, and more preferably 10 to 100; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more fatty acids in C8-C24, preferably C12-C22, and their alkoxylated derivatives, preferably with 10 to 200 alkylene oxides, and more preferably 10 to 100; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and one or more fatty alcohols in C8-C24, preferably C12-C22; and their combinations.

[0118] Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters that may be cited include ethylene oxide adducts with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and their combinations, in particular those containing 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 palmitostearate; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol 100 EO monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and their combinations.

[0119] In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition includes one or more glyceryl esters of fatty acids, for example, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and / or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and combinations thereof may be cited in particular. Examples of C8-C24 alkoxylated glyceryl esters of fatty acids include polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-, and / or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate and PEG-30 glyceryl stearate. Mixtures of these surfactants can also be used, such as, for example, the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and potassium stearate marketed under the name TEG1N by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).

[0120] Suitable alkoxylated monoacid emulsifiers include, but are not limited to: 5-butoxynol carboxylic acid, 19-butoxynol carboxylic acid, 4-capryleth carboxylic acid, 6-capryleth carboxylic acid, 9-capryleth carboxylic acid, 25-ceteareth carboxylic acid, 7-coceth carboxylic acid, 6-C9-11 pareth-carboxylic acid, 7-C1-15 pareth-carboxylic acid, 5-C12-13 pareth-carboxylic acid, 8-C12-13 pareth-carboxylic acid, 12-13 pareth-carboxylic acid, 7-C12-15 pareth-carboxylic acid, 8-C12-15 pareth-carboxylic acid, 8-C14-15 pareth-carboxylic acid, 7-deceth carboxylic acid, laureth-3 carboxylic acid, laureth-4 carboxylic acid, laureth-5 carboxylic acid, laureth-6 carboxylic acid, laureth-8 carboxylic acid, laureth-10 carboxylic acid, laureth-11 carboxylic acid, laureth-12 carboxylic acid, laureth-13 carboxylic acid, laureth-14 carboxylic acid, laureth-17 carboxylic acid, PPG-6-laureth-6 carboxylic acid, PPG-8-steareth-7 carboxylic acid, myreth-3 carboxylic acid, myreth-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-5 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-8 carboxylic acid, nonoxynol-10 carboxylic acid, octeth-3 carboxylic acid, octoxynol-20 carboxylic acid, oleth-3 carboxylic acid, oleth-6 carboxylic acid, oleth-10 carboxylic acid, PPG-3-deceth-2 carboxylic acid capryleth-2 carboxylic acid, ceteth-13 carboxylic acid, deceth-2 carboxylic acid, hexeth-4 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-6 carboxylic acid, isosteareth-11 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-6 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-8 carboxylic acid,trideceth-12 carboxylic acid, trideceth-3 carboxylic acid, trideceth-4 carboxylic acid, trideceth-7 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-15 carboxylic acid, tridecetheth-19 carboxylic acid, undecetheth-5 carboxylic acid, and their combinations.

[0121] The total amount of one or more emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition will vary, but is typically about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In other embodiments, the cosmetic composition includes approximately 0.1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.1 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 0.5 to approximately 3% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 1 to approximately 4% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 2 to approximately 8% by weight, or approximately 2 to approximately 5% by weight of one or more emulsifiers, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.Preferably, the cosmetic composition includes about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, more preferably about 1 to about 8% by weight, and more preferably about 2 to about 6% by weight of one or more emulsifiers, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Water

[0122] In accordance with the disclosure, the cosmetic composition is a water-based composition.

[0123] According to the various embodiments, water is present in the composition at a concentration, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of approximately 40% or more, alternatively approximately 50% or more, alternatively approximately 98% or less, alternatively from approximately 40% to approximately 98%, alternatively from approximately 45% to approximately 96%, alternatively from approximately 50% to approximately 94%, in a variant from approximately 55% to approximately 90%, a variant from approximately 60% to approximately 88%, or any appropriate value, range, or sub-range thereof. Thus, water may be present in an amount of approximately 40%, 41%, 42%, 43%, 44%, 45%, 46%, 47%, 48%, 49%, 50%, 51%, 52%, 53%, 54%, 55%, 56%, 57%, 58%, 59%, 60%, 61%, 57%, 58%, 59%, 60%, 61%, 51%, 58%, 59%, 60%, 6 ... %, 62%, 63%, 64%, 65%, 66%, 67%, 68%, 69%, 70%, 71%, 72%, 73%, 74% 75%, 76%, 77%, 78%, 79%, 80%, 81%, 82%, 83%, 84%, 85%, 86%, 87%, 88 %, 89%, 90%, 91%, 92%, 93%, 94%, 95%, 96%, 97% to approximately 98%. Water-soluble solvent

[0124] The expression "water-soluble solvent" is interchangeable with the expression "water-soluble organic solvent" and designates an organic solvent that is soluble in water or can be dissolved in water and is a liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). For example, water-soluble solvents may have a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions. Preferably, however, water-soluble solvents have a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90%.

[0125] Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include glycerin, C2-C6 monoalcohols, polyols, glycols, glycol ethers (e.g., monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol or propylene glycol), propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol such as monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol (e.g., diethylene glycol monobutyl ether and diethylene glycol monoethyl ether), dipropylene glycol, and alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, e.g., monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

[0126] In various embodiments, one or more water-soluble solvents are selected from alkanediols (polyhydric alcohols or polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, (caprylyl glycol), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; alkyl alcohols having 1 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, methanol, butanol, propanol and isopropanol;glycol ethers such as monomethyl ethylene glycol ether, monoethyl ethylene glycol ether, monobutyl ethylene glycol ether, monomethyl ethylene glycol ether acetate, monomethyl diethylene glycol ether, monoethyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-n-propyl diethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl ethylene glycol ether, mono-isopropyl diethylene glycol ether; glycol, mono-n-butyl ether of ethylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of ethylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of diethylene glycol, 1-methyl-l-methoxybutanol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether of propylene glycol, mono-t-butyl ether of propylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of propylene glycol, mono-isopropyl ether of propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, monoethyl ether of dipropylene glycol, mono-n-propyl ether of dipropylene glycol and mono-isopropyl ether of dipropylene glycol; 2-pyrrolidone, N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone, l,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, formamide, acetamide, dimethyl sulfoxide, sorbit, sorbitan, acetin, diacetinate, triacetin, sulfolane, or combinations thereof.

[0127] Non-limiting examples of polyols (polyhydric alcohols) include glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and combinations thereof. Polyol compounds may also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, or combinations thereof.

[0128] The total amount of one or more water-soluble solvents in the cosmetic composition will vary, but is typically about 1 to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition may include water-soluble solvents in an amount of about 1 to about 30% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 18% by weight, about 1 to about 16% by weight, about 1 to about 14% by weight, about 1 to about 12% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight; about 5 to about 30% by weight, about 5 to about 25% by weight, about 5 to about 20% by weight, about 5 to about 18% by weight, about 5 to about 16% by weight, about 5 to about 14% by weight, about 5 to about 12% by weight, about 5 to about 10% by weight;about 10 to about 30% by weight, about 10 to about 25% by weight, about 10 to about 20% by weight, about 10 to about 18% by weight, about 10 to about 16% by weight, about 10 to about 14% by weight; about 12 to about 30% by weight, about 12 to about 25% by weight, about 12 to about 20% by weight, about 12 to about 18% by weight, about 12 to about 16% by weight; about 14 to about 30% by weight, about 14 to about 25% by weight, about 14 to about 20% by weight, about 14 to; about 18% by weight; about 16 to about 30% by weight, about 16 to about 25% by weight, about 16 to about 20% by weight; about 18 to about 30% by weight, about 18 to about 25% by weight, about 18 to about 20% by weight, including the ranges and sub-ranges thereof, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Skin-active agents

[0129] Cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more skin-active agents, such as an anti-aging agent, anti-wrinkle agents, antioxidants, humectants, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents and / or agents for treating oily skin, etc. Skin-active agents may be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from more than zero to about 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of skin-active agents may be from more than zero to about 9% by weight, from more than zero to about 8% by weight, from more than zero to about 7% by weight, from more than zero to about 6% by weight, from more than zero to about 5% by weight, from more than zero to about 4% by weight, from more than zero to about 3% by weight, from more than zero to about 2% by weight;from about 10 ppm to about 10% by weight (100,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 5% by weight (50,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 2.5% by weight (25,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 1% by weight (10,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.5% by weight (5,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.3% by weight (3,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.2% by weight (2,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to about 0.1% by weight (1,000 ppm), from about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; from about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight; from about 0.1 to about 10% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 2.5% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, from about 0.1 to about 0.5% by weight;from about 1 to about 10% by weight, from about 1 to about 8% by weight, from about 1 to about 6% by weight, from about 1 to about 5% by weight, from about 1 to about 4% by weight, from about 1 to about 3% by weight; from about 2 to about 10% by weight, from about 2 to about 8% by weight, from about 2 to about 6% by weight; from about 2 to about 5% by weight, from about 2 to about 4% by weight; from about 3 to about 10% by weight, from about 3 to about 8% by weight; from about 3 to about 6% by weight; of approximately 3 to approximately 5% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 10% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 8% by weight, approximately 4 to approximately 6% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0130] A non-exhaustive list of cutaneous active agents which may, in some cases, be included in the cosmetic composition is provided below:

[0131] Humectants and / or moisturizing ingredients other than hydroxyethyl urea

[0132] Examples of humectants and / or moisturizing ingredients include glycerol and its derivatives, lactic acid, hyaluronic acid, AHA, BHA, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, sodium lactate, ectoine and its derivatives, chitosan and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, acrylic acid homopolymers such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta-glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan from Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a blend of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, a C-glycoside derivative, in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution containing 30% by weight of active ingredient in a water / propylene glycol mixture (60 / 40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by the company Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB",Rosehip oil marketed by Nestlé, a zinc-enriched extract of Porphyridium cruentum microalgae marketed under the name Vincience Algualane Zinc, marine collagen and chondroitin sulfate spheres (Atelocollagen) sold by Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, hyaluronic acid spheres such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.

[0133] Depigmentation agents

[0134] Depigmenting agents that may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition include those selected from alpha and beta arbutin, ferulic acid, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, gentisic acid, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, D-panthetin calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain plant-derived compounds such as chamomile, red strawberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), blackberry, skullcap, a kiwi fruit (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract of Paeonia suffruticosa root, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos, under the name Liquid Botanpi Be, is an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kaga under the name Liquid Molasses.without this list being exhaustive. Specific depigmenting agents include alpha and beta-arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, panthetin D calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a kiwi fruit (Actinidiadia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a Paeonia suffruticosa root extract, such as that sold by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Botanpi Liquid B.

[0135] Anti-wrinkle active ingredient

[0136] The cosmetic composition may include one or more anti-wrinkle active ingredients. The term "anti-wrinkle active ingredient" refers to a natural or synthetic compound that produces a biological effect, such as increasing the synthesis and / or activity of certain enzymes, when it comes into contact with an area of ​​wrinkled skin, thereby reducing the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines. Examples of anti-wrinkle active ingredients may be chosen from: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents that stimulate the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or prevent their degradation, agents that stimulate the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes, or agents that stimulate keratinocyte differentiation reduction; muscle relaxants and / or skin-relaxing agents, free radical scavengers,and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds include: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids (such as retinyl palmitate and retinol); ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; and ubiquinone. glutathione and its precursors such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in EP-1345919, in particular C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane as described in particular in EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as plants and their hydrolyzed derivatives such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy protein, seaweed extracts and in particular kelp, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of Dioscorea plants,in particular wild yam, including: α-hydroxy acids, γ-hydroxy acids, such as salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and their acyl derivatives, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl-}acetic acid and lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, in particular gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the cosmetic composition includes adenosine derivatives, such as non-phosphate adenosine derivatives, such as in particular 2'-deoxyadenosine, 2',3'-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, 6-methyladenosine; adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, and 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine (“PIA”),1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine, 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-, ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'- -N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido-adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

[0137] Skin-active agent for oily skin

[0138] The cosmetic composition may optionally include a cutaneous active agent that treats oily skin. These agents may be sebum-regulating or antiseborrheic agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. Examples of cutaneous active agents for treating oily skin include: retinoic acid, retinol, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, mixtures of samphire-cinnamon extract, tea and octanoylglycine such as Seppic's Sepicontrol A5 TEA—the mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed notably by Seppic under the trade name Sepicontrol A5—zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or zinc pidolate), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate, zinc cystate; -derivatives in particular copper and copper pidolate in the form of Cuivridone-plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra,Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta, Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed by Maruzen - extracts of the seaweed Spiraea ulmaria, such as those sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab - extracts of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, such as those sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine - extracts of root mixtures of coronilla (Sanguisorba officinalis / Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia),such as those sold under the name Sebustop by Solabia; flaxseed extracts such as those sold under the name Linumine by Lucas Meyer; Phellodendron extracts such as those sold under the name Phellodendron Extract BG by Maruzen or Oubaku liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos; an oil extract of argan oil blends of Senoa sersulfata (creeping saw palmetto) and sesame seeds such as those sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm; blends of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturium, and bioavailable zinc extracts (microalgae), such as those sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech; Pygeum afrianum extracts such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed; Serenoa serrulata extracts such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed—extracts of plantain mixtures,Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn; clove extract such as that sold under the name Clove Powder by Maruzen; argan oil such as that sold under the name Lipofructyl Laboratories Serobiologiques; —filtrates of, Lactic acid proteins, such as those sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma; kelp extracts, such as those sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine; oligosaccharides from the seaweed Laminaria digitata, such as those sold under the name Phycosaccharide 30 AC by Codif; sugar cane extracts, such as those sold under the name Policosanol by Sabinsa; sulfonated shale oil, such as that sold under the name Ichthyol Pale by Ichyol; Kentucky bluegrass (Spiraea ulmaria) extracts, such as those sold under the name Cytobiol Ulmaire by Libiol; sebacic acid, notably sold as a sodium polyacrylate gel under the name Sebosoft by Seboderma; glucomannans extracted from konjac tuber and modified with alkylsulfonate chains, such as those sold under the name Biopol Beta by Arch Chemical—extracts of Sophora angustifolia,such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland; extracts of cinchona succirubra bark such as those sold under the name Red Bark HS by Alban Muller; extracts of Quillaja saponaria such as those sold under the name Panama wood HS by Alban Muller; glycine grafted onto an undecylenic chain, such as that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC; the mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC.Net by Sederma; tri(C12-C13) phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid citrate — sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECI by Sasol; a trialkyl (C14-C15) citrate sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECL by Sasol—hydroxydecanoic acid, including mixtures of hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decanediol such as those sold under the name Acnacidol BG by Vincience and their mixtures.

[0139] Antioxidants

[0140] Vitamin C and its derivatives may be used, including ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate and the fat-soluble esters tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, glucosamine ascorbate, ascorbyl acetate, etc. In addition, plant extracts containing a high amount of vitamin C, such as camu berry (Myrciaria dubia), acerola, emblica officinalis and bioflavonoids from rosehip and citrus fruits, may also be used, including water-soluble bioflavonoids such as hesperidin methylchalcone.

[0141] Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

[0142] Other antioxidants include tocopherols (e.g., da-tocopherol, d-[3-tocopherol, dy-tocopherol, d-delta-tocopherol), tocotrienols (e.g., d α-Tocotrienol, d-[3-Tocotrienol, dy-Tocotrienol, d-Delta-Tocotrienol) and vitamin E (α-Tocopherol acetate). These compounds can be isolated from natural sources, prepared synthetically, or mixtures thereof. Vitamin E preparations enriched in tocotrienol can be obtained by fractionating vitamin E preparations to remove some of the tocopherols and recover a preparation with a higher tocotrienol concentration. Useful tocotrienols are natural products isolated, for example, from wheat germ oil, cereals, or palm oil using high-performance liquid chromatography, or isolated by alcohol extraction and / or molecular distillation from barley, distillers' grains, or oats. As used here, the term "tocotrienols" includes tocotrienol-rich fractions obtained from these natural products as well as pure compounds.Increased glutathione peroxidase activity protects the skin from oxidative damage.

[0143] Furthermore, carotenoids, particularly of the xanthophyll type, are also useful antioxidants that can be utilized. Xanthophyll-type carotenoids include molecules such as lutein, canthaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin, and astaxanthin. Xanthophylls protect compounds such as vitamin A, vitamin E, and other carotenoids.

[0144] Flavonoids

[0145] The active agent may be an antioxidant selected from the flavonoid group. In some cases, the flavonoid is a flavanone (derived from 2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: butin, eriodictyol, hesperetin, hesperidin, homoeriodictyol, isosakuranetin, naringenin, naringin, pinocembrin, poncirin, sakuranetin, sakuranin, and sterubin. The flavonoid may be a flavanonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2,3-dihydro-2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavanols include: taxifolin, aromadrin, chrysandroside A, chrysandroside B, xeractinol, astilbin, and fustin. The flavonoid may be a flavone (derived from 2-phenylchromen-4-one). Flavones include: apigenin, luteolin, tangeritin, chrysin, baicalein, scutellarein, wogonin; synthetic flavones: diosmin and flavoxate. The flavonoid may be a flavonol (derived from 3-hydroxy-2-phenylchromen-4-one).Flavonols include: 3-hydroxyflavone, azaleatin, fisetin, galangin, gossypetin, kaempferide, kaempferol, isorhamnetin, morin, myricetin, natsudaidaine, pachypodol, quercetin, rhamnazine, rhamnetin, azalein, hyperoside, isoquercitin, kaempferitrin, myricitrin, quercitrin, robinin, rutin, spiraeoside, xanthorhamnine, amurensin, icariin, and troxerutin. A flavonoid can be a flavan-3-ol (derived from 2-phenyl-3,4-dihydro-2H-chromen-3-ol). Flavan-3-ols include: catechin, epicatechin, epigallocatechin, epicatechin gallate, epigallocatechin gallate, epiafzelechin, fisetinidol, guibourtinidol, mesquitol, and robinetinidol. The flavonoid may be a flavan-4-ol (derived from 2-phenylchroman-4-ol). Flavan-4-ols include: apiforol and [other compounds]. Luteoforol. The flavonoid may be an isoflavone (derived from 3-phenylchromen-4-one). Isoflavones include: genistein, daidzein, biochanin A, formononetin, and the daidzein metabolite Equol.

[0146] The antioxidant may be an anthocyanidin (derived from the 2-phenylchromenyl cation). Anthocyanidins include: aurantinidin, cyanidin, delphinidin, europinidin, luteolinidin, pelargonidin, malvidin, peonidin, petunidin, rosinidin and xanthone.

[0147] The antioxidant may be a dihydrochalcone (a derivative of 1,3-diphenyl-l-propanone). Dihydrochalcones include: phloretin, dihydrochalcone phloretin phlorizin, aspalathin, naringin dihydrochalcone, neohesperidin dihydrochalcone, and nothofagin. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, dihydrochalcones may exert an antioxidant effect by reducing reactive free radicals, such as reactive oxygen and reactive nitrogen species.

[0148] The antioxidant can be an anthocyanin. Anthocyanins and their derivatives are antioxidants. Anthocyanins encompass a class of flavonoid compounds, which are naturally occurring water-soluble compounds responsible for the red, purple, and blue colors of many fruits, vegetables, grains, and flowers. In addition, anthocyanins are collagenase inhibitors. Inhibition of collagenase contributes to the prevention and reduction of wrinkles, increased skin elasticity, etc., which are caused by a reduction in dermal collagen. Anthocyanins can be obtained from any portion of various plant sources, such as the fruit, flower, stem, leaves, root, bark, or seeds.A specialist in the field will understand that certain parts of the plant may contain naturally higher levels of anthocyanins, and that, consequently, these parts are used to obtain the desired anthocyanins. In some cases, antioxidants may include one or more betacyanins. Betacyanins, like anthocyanins, can come from natural sources and are antioxidants.

[0149] The antioxidant may be a phenylpropanoid (cinnamic acid derivative). Phenylpropanoids include: cinnamic acid, caffeic acid, ferulic acid, trans-ferulic acid (including its antioxidant pharmacopoeia 2,6-dihydroxyacetophenone), 5-hydroxyferic acid, sinapic acid, coumaryl alcohol, coniferyl alcohol, sinapyl alcohol, eugenol, chavicol, safrole, p-coumaric acid, and sinapinic acid. Without limiting the mode of action of the invention, phenylpropanoids may neutralize free radicals.

[0150] The antioxidant may be a chalcone (derived from 1,3-diphenyl-2-propen-1-one). Chalcones include: butein, okanin, carthamine, marein, sophoradine, xanthohumol, flavokawain A, flavokawain B, flavokawain C and synthetic safalcone.

[0151] The antioxidant may be a curcuminoid. Curcuminoids include: curcumin, desmethoxycurcumin, bis-desmethoxycurcumin, tetrahydrocurcumin, and tetrahydrocurcuminoids. Curcumin and tetrahydrocurcuminoids may be derived from the rhizomes of Curcuma longa. Tetrahydrocurcumin, a metabolite of curcumin, has been shown to be a more potent and stable antioxidant than curcumin.

[0152] The antioxidant may be a tannin. Tannins include: tannin, terflavin B, glucogallin, D-gallic acid and quercitannic acid.

[0153] The antioxidant may be a stilbenoid. Stilbenoids include: resveratrol, pterostilbene and piceatannol. Resveratrol may include, but is not limited to, 3,5,4'-trihydroxystilbene, 3,4,3',5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (piceatannol), 2,3',4,5'-tetrahydroxystilbene (oxyresveratrol), 4,4'-dihydroxystilbene, and their alpha- and beta-glucoside, galactoside and mannoside derivatives.

[0154] The antioxidant may be a coumarin (2H-chromen-2-one derivatives). Coumarins include: 4-Hydroxycoumarin, umbelliferone, esculetin, hemiarin, auraptene, and dicoumarol.

[0155] The antioxidant may be a carotenoid. Carotenoids include: beta-carotene, alpha-carotene, gamma-carotene, beta-cryptoxanthin, lycopene, lutein, and idebenone. Sesame (Sesamum indicum) or sesame lignans may also be added. Sesame and its lignans (the fibrous compounds associated with sesame) act as antioxidants. Sesame seed lignans significantly enhance the activity of vitamin E.

[0156] The antioxidant may be: a xanthone, butylated hydroxytoluene, 2,6-di-tert-butylphenol, 2,4-dimethyl-6-tert-butylphenol, gallic acid, eugenol, uric acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ellagic acid, chicoric acid, chlorogic acid, rosmarinic acid, salicylic acid, acetylcysteine, s-allyl cysteine, barbigerone, chebulagic acid, edaravone, ethyloxyquin, glutathione, hydroxytyrsol, idebenone, melatonin, N-acetylserotonin, nordihydroguaretic acid, olecanthal, oleuropein, paradol, piceatannol, probucol, propyl gallate, protocatechuic acid, pyritinol, rutin, secoisolariciresinol diglucoside, sesamin, silibinin, silymarin, theflavin, theaflavin digallate, thymoquinone, trolox, tyrosol, polyunsaturated fatty acids and sulfur-based antioxidants such as methionine or lipoic acid. pH adjuster(s)

[0157] The cosmetic composition may include one or more pH adjusters to raise or lower the overall pH of the cosmetic composition. For example, one or more acids may be included to lower the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of acids suitable for lowering the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid, and the like. A cosmetic composition may include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and the like, to lower the pH of the cosmetic composition. The additional or alternative acids or bases that are suitable for correcting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to those skilled in the art.

[0158] The cosmetic composition may preferably have a pH of approximately 4.5 to approximately 7, preferably approximately 5 to approximately 6.5, or approximately 5.5 to approximately 6.5. In one case, the pH of the cosmetic composition is 6 or approximately 6. The amount of pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition may be based on the desired pH of the final cosmetic composition and / or the final product. For example, the total amount of pH adjuster may be in the range of approximately 0.05% to approximately 20%, relative to the total weight of the composition. In some cases, the total amount of pH adjuster is about 0.05% to about 15%, about 0.5% to about 10%, about 1% to about 5%, or about 1.5% to about 4% by weight, or about 2.0% to about 3% by weight, including intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Usage methods

[0159] This disclosure also relates to processes for using the cosmetic compositions described herein. For example, the cosmetic compositions may be used in a process that includes applying the cosmetic compositions to human skin. In some cases, the composition is applied to the face. In addition, the cosmetic composition may be used in processes for treating and / or repairing skin damage (e.g., damage due to photoaging), and for reducing the appearance of wrinkles, age spots, and uneven skin texture. The processes mentioned above are non-therapeutic.

[0160] The cosmetic composition can be applied once a day, twice a day, or more than once or twice a day. In some cases, the composition is applied in the evening before bedtime. In other cases, the compositions are applied in the morning. In still other cases, the composition can be applied immediately after washing the skin. The compositions can be used once, or for a series of days, weeks, or months. For example, the compositions can be used daily for a period of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 weeks or more, or for months. EXAMPLES

[0161] The following examples are provided primarily to clarify the benefits achieved by different embodiments of disclosure. The examples serve to illustrate the technology but are not necessarily restrictive in nature. Example 1

[0162] A composition in accordance with this disclosure could be prepared as shown below:

[0163] [Tables 1] Inventive Example 1 Cosmetic Type INCI US a Skin Enhancing Penetrator Hydroxyethyl Urea 4.4 b Natural Moisturizing Factor Glycine 1 Serine 0.1 Alanine 0.1 c Aminosulfonic Compound N-Substituted Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid 0.2 Fatty Compound Cetearyl Alcohol 5 Thickening Agent Xanthan Gum 2 Silicon Dimethicone 0.5 Emolient Isopropyl Palmitate (ISOP ROPYL PALMITATE) 4 EMULSIFIERS GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE (GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE) 2.5 PRESERVATIVES 4 SOLVENT WATER (WATER) QS Example 2

[0164] Inventive Examples and Comparative Examples were tested to measure the enhanced penetration of the active ingredients through the skin. The enhanced penetration of the inventive and comparative examples was evaluated following the procedure described below. Experimental protocol for ATR-FTIR measurements

[0165] 1. Frozen human skin was used in all Raman experiments instantly sourced from the same donor, purchased from an approved supplier. 2. A 2 cm x 2 cm piece of skin was thawed and cleaned. 3. 40 mg of the formulation were applied to the skin surface and massaged in. with a glass rod for 60 seconds. 4. The skin was placed at the interface of a Franz diffusion cell with the acceptor chamber filled with distilled water. 5. The opening of the donor cell is covered with parafilm, and the cell is incubated at 32 °C for -14 hours (overnight). 6. After 14 hours, excess formulation on the skin surface was lightly blotted with a Kimwipe wipe. 7. The skin was imaged by ATR-FTIR imaging spectroscopy to evaluate The initial deposition of Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) on the skin surface. To investigate NMF penetration into the stratum corneum (CC), 10 strips of tape were sequentially applied and removed from the skin surface. Seven different depths within the CC were obtained using this tape application method. This method allows imaging of the entire CC profile. It also allows for the specific detection of the signature band to track the penetration of hydroxyethyl urea as a humectant of interest for this disclosure.

[0166] [Tables2] AB c Comparative Ex. 1 Comparative Ex. 2 Inventive Ex. 2 INCI US a Skin-enhancing penetrant Hydroxyethyl Urea 4.4 4.4 4.4 b Natural moisturizing factor Glycine 1 1 Alanine 0.1 0.1 Serine (Serine) 0.1 0.1 Sodium PCA 0.25 0.25 c N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound Hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid (Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid (Hepes)) 0.2 Water 95.6 94.1 93.9 Results

[0167] Results - Control

[0168] To visualize distribution on the skin, specific ATR-FTIR images were generated. The objective of the control experiment was to visualize distribution on the skin. In this experiment, 40 mg of each formula was applied to separate human skin samples. The samples were placed in a Franz diffusion cell for approximately 14 hours. After 14 hours, any remaining formula was blotted off the surface of the skin samples. ATR-FTIR images were used to image the skin samples and assess the area of ​​the amide I band. The amide I band is specific to protein content. The higher the value, the redder the image and the higher the protein content. See Figure 3. As expected, the protein content did not vary significantly across all human skin samples.Only ATR-FTIR images recorded 14 hours after topical application of the products to the skin surface (layer 0) showed a lower protein content because a significant amount of product was still present on the skin surface after the 14-hour treatment period.

[0169] Results - Distribution of natural moisturizing factors

[0170] To visualize the Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF) within the stratum corneum, specific ATR-FTIR images were generated, and an evaluation of the 1060 cm² band area was performed. The 1060 cm² band is specific to hydroxyethyl urea. The higher the value, the redder the image, and the higher the hydroxyethyl urea content within the human stratum corneum. The ATR-FTIR data demonstrated the distribution of hydroxyethyl urea based on the 1060 cm² band area in untreated (control) human skin and skin samples treated with the Inventive and Comparative Examples (C, A, and B). See Figure 4.

[0171] In this experiment, 40 mg of each formula were applied to separate human skin samples. The samples were placed in a Franz diffusion cell for ~14 hours. After 14 hours, any remaining formula A blot was applied to the surface of the skin samples. An ATR-FTIR scanner was used to image the skin samples and assess hydroxyethyl urea penetration. To analyze hydroxyethyl urea penetration into the stratum corneum, strips of tape were applied to and removed from the skin 10 times, resulting in 7 different depths within the stratum corneum. When reading the results, the redder the image, the higher the hydroxyethyl urea content. As expected, no hydroxyethyl urea was detected in the untreated human skin sample (control). After a 14-hour treatment time in a Franz cell, hydroxyethyl urea was strongly detected on the surface of the human skin samples treated with formulations A, B, and C. Based on the marker, hydroxyethyl urea penetration was observed with formulation C, followed by formulations A and B.Formulation C was shown to be more effective in terms of hydroxyethyl urea penetration. Hydroxyethyl urea was detected down to layer 8 out of 10. These results indicated that both hydroxyethyl urea and HEPES were necessary for hydroxyethyl urea penetration.

[0172] These experiments surprisingly showed that the enhanced penetration of hydroxyethyl urea in Formula C, containing hydroxyethyl urea, amino acids, and hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, was the most effective in promoting hydroxyethyl urea penetration. Even a low level of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid aided the penetration of hydroxyethyl urea into the skin in the presence of amino acids (FHN). Example 3 Stability data

[0173] The formulas were subjected to elevated temperatures and compared to a control jar to measure the pH at fixed times. The tests were conducted at 45 °C in large glass jars to accelerate the color change and pH evolution. The results obtained are shown in Table 3 below.

[0174] [Tables3] 1 week 2 weeks 4 weeks (1 month) T0 5C Diff. 45 C Difference 5C Diff. 45C Diff. 5C Diff. 45C Diff. A 6.92 6.93 0.0 7.8 7 1.0 6.8 4 -0.1 8.15 1.2 6.81 -0.12 8.35 1.43 B 6.43 6.57 0.1 6.9 9 0.6 6.5 1 0.1 7.26 0.8 6.58 0.01 7.44 1.01 C 5.91 5.9 0.0 6.2 8 0.4 5.9 8 0.1 6.54 0.6 5.91 0.01 6.76 0.85

[0175] The stability protocol uses a temperature control at 45 °C after periods of 1 month and 2 months. The 1-month control was used for this experiment. It was observed that Inventive Example Ex. 2 (C) exhibited a more constant pH compared to Comparative Examples 1 and 2 (respectively A and B) which did not contain hydroxyethyl urea + FHN + HEPES.

[0176] pH is a key specification for cosmetic products. If pH variations are too high or low, this could impact physical stability by causing ingredients to become dormant if the pH falls outside the specified range. Furthermore, polymeric thickeners are pH-dependent, so viscosity changes may occur if the pH varies. pH is also important for microsystems, as a more neutral pH can lead to microbial growth. While pH is important for this inventive example, it is also important for chemical stability, as some active ingredients are more stable within specific pH ranges.

[0177] A, B, and C contained higher levels of hydroxyethyl urea, which is known to have a pH variation at high temperatures. With a high amount of Natural Moisturizing Factors + HEPES, the pH remained much more stable compared to A and B, which did not contain the hydroxyethyl urea + Natural Moisturizing Factors + HEPES mixture.

[0178] According to the results specified above, it was demonstrated that the compositions in accordance with this disclosure were surprisingly stable and unexpectedly enhanced the penetration of hydroxyethyl urea and Natural Moisturizing Factors even when the amount of hydroxyethyl urea was high.

[0179] The term "INCI" is an abbreviation for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe the ingredients of personal care products.

[0180] In some cases, the cosmetic compositions of this disclosure may be substantially free of non-accidental amounts of the ingredient(s) or compound(s) described herein. A non-accidental amount of an ingredient or compound is the amount of that ingredient or compound that is added of itself to the cosmetic composition. For example, a cosmetic composition may be substantially free of a non-accidental amount of an ingredient or compound, although said ingredient(s) or compound(s) may be present within the of a raw material which is included in the form of a mixture of two or more compounds.

[0181] Some of the various identified component categories may overlap. In such cases where an overlap may exist and the composition includes both components (or the composition includes more than two overlapping components), an overlapping compound does not represent more than one component. For example, tocopherol may be characterized as both a cutaneous active agent and a preservative. If a particular composition includes both a cutaneous active agent and a preservative, steareth-20 will serve only as a cutaneous active agent or only as a preservative (tocopherol does not serve as both a cutaneous active agent and a preservative).

[0182] The term "treat" (and its grammatical variations) as used herein refers to the application of the compositions of this disclosure to the surface of keratinous substrates such as the hair on a user's head or body hair.

[0183] The expression "substantially free" or "essentially free" as used herein means that less than approximately 2% by weight of a specific material is added to a composition, relative to the total weight of the compositions. However, the compositions may include less than approximately 1% by weight, less than approximately 0.5% by weight, less than approximately 0.1% by weight, or none of the specified material. All components shown herein may optionally be included or excluded from the compositions / process / kits. When excluded, the compositions / processes / kits may be free or essentially free of the component. For example, a particular composition may be free or essentially free of silicones.

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic composition comprising hydroxyethylurea present in an amount of about 1.5 to about 24% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least three natural moisturizing factors selected from the group consisting of glycine, serine, alanine, sodium pca, and their combination.

3. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least three natural moisturizing factors are present in an amount of about 0.2 to about 9.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound selected from the group consisting of N,N-bis[2-hydroxyethyl]-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N'-2-ethanesulfonic acid, 3-[N-morpholino]propanesulfonic acid, piperazine-N,N'-bis[2-ethanesulfonic acid], 3-[N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methylamino]-2-hydroxypropanesulfonic acid, 2-[N-morpholino]ethanesulfonic acid, N-(2-acetamido)-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and N-tris(hydroxymethyl)methyl-2-aminoethanesulfonic acid, and combinations thereof.

5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one N-substituted aminosulfonic acid compound is present from about 0.15 to about 4.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH of the composition is from about 4.5 to about 7.

7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising fatty compounds.

8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising polymers.

9. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) about 1.3 to about 25% by weight of hydroxyethyl urea;

10. (b) about 0.1 to about 10% by weight of natural moisturizing factors; (c) approximately 0.1 to approximately 5% by weight of hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid; and in which the formula is stable and preferably the penetration of hydroxyethyl urea is improved, and all percentages by weight are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Skin treatment method comprising applying the cosmetic composition of claim 1 to the skin.

Images