Mineral oil-free mechanically stable lipsticks

JP2025522070A5Pending Publication Date: 2026-05-08BEIERSDORF AG
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
JP · JP
Patent Type
Applications
Current Assignee / Owner
BEIERSDORF AG
Filing Date
2023-06-27
Publication Date
2026-05-08

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Lipsticks made from natural raw materials face high defect rates during manufacturing due to breakage and cracking, particularly during the cooling and solidification process, and lack the suppleness and smoothness required for application.

Method used

A lipstick formulation comprising beeswax, rapeseed wax, and sunflower oil with specific oleic acid, acid value, and peroxide content, along with additives like ascorbyl palmitate and lecithin, is used to enhance flexibility and reduce defects, maintaining sensory properties.

Benefits of technology

The formulation significantly reduces manufacturing defects and maintains suppleness and smoothness, ensuring a robust and effective lipstick application experience.

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Abstract

A lip stick containing a combination of a) beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba), b) rapeseed wax (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) and c) sunflower oil obtained from hybrid sunflowers (INCI: Helianthus Annuus hybrid oil).
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Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a lipstick comprising a combination of beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba), rapeseed wax (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) and sunflower oil obtained from hybrid sunflowers (INCI: Helianthus Annuus hybrid oil).

[0002] The desire to look beautiful and attractive has been ingrained in people's hearts for thousands of years. Although the ideals of beauty have changed over time, aiming for a perfect appearance has always been a goal for people because a pleasing appearance enhances self-esteem and attractiveness to those around them.

[0003] The term decorative cosmetics is derived from the Latin "decoratio" which emphasizes beauty. In many cases, individual parts of the body, especially the face, are emphasized with colorants and color non-uniformities are reduced.

[0004] For this purpose, in addition to face powder and rouge as powdery cosmetics and stick preparations, cream preparations such as day creams and cream makeup based on emulsions are also used.

[0005] Lipstick is included in the most commonly used decorative cosmetics. In Germany, more than 50% of women use it. In many cases, lipstick not only accentuates the color of the lips but is also used for lip care.

[0006] Usually, lipstick consists of a wax matrix incorporating high concentrations of liquid and semi-solid oils as well as pigments and fillers. Lipstick exists in the form of a solid stick.

[0007] A drawback of the prior art is the fact that a relatively large proportion of defective products occur during the manufacture of lipsticks. This phenomenon occurs particularly frequently in lipsticks manufactured from naturally derived raw materials, i.e., lipsticks that do not contain petrolatum, paraffin, mineral oil, silicone oil, or silicone wax.

[0008] Normally, the manufacture of lipsticks is carried out according to an injection molding process. In this case, a high-temperature liquid preparation is poured into a stick mold and subsequently cooled and solidified. Thereafter, when the solidified stick blank is removed from the mold and packed into a packaging container, repeated breakage and cracking occur in the stick mass. This manufacturing defect increases the labor and cost of lipstick production.

[0009] Therefore, the object of the present invention was to develop a lipstick (especially one based on natural raw materials) in which the amount of such defective products is reduced during manufacture.

[0010] In order to be able to predict the risk of breakage and cracking during manufacture at the product development stage, a penetrometer test can be used in the laboratory. In this test, two needles of different thicknesses are pushed into the stick mass with a constant force, and the penetration depth is measured. Particularly robust sticks are characterized by the fact that the difference in the penetration depth of the needles of different thicknesses is minimal. The process will be described in detail below.

[0011] In addition to stability against mechanical influences during manufacture, it is also further important that the cosmetic properties of the lipstick are maintained.

[0012] In particular, it is necessary to maintain suppleness and smoothness when applied to the lips. However, hard sticks that are less susceptible to the influence of mechanical loads during manufacture have the drawback of no longer having this suppleness and smoothness.

[0013] Accordingly, an object of the present invention was to develop a lipstick that retains the sensory tactile properties regarding particularly flexibility and smoothness during application without causing a high defect rate during production.

[0014] Surprisingly, these problems are a) beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba), b) rapeseed wax (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) and c) sunflower oil obtained from a hybrid sunflower (INCI: Helianthus Annuus hybrid oil, CAS number 164250 - 88 - 8) which is solved by a lipstick comprising a combination of

[0015] According to the present invention, the lipstick is advantageously characterized in that the sunflower oil obtained from a hybrid sunflower (INCI: Helianthus Annuus hybrid oil) has an oleic acid content (C18:1) of 60% to 95% as measured according to IUPAC 2.304. According to the present invention, an oleic acid content of 70% to 90% is preferred as measured according to IUPAC 2.304. On the other hand, conventional sunflower oil has an oleic acid content (C18:1) of about 14% to 40% as measured according to IUPAC 2.304.

[0016] An advantageous embodiment in the meaning of the present invention is also characterized in that the sunflower oil obtained from a hybrid sunflower (INCI: Helianthus Annuus hybrid oil) has an acid value of at most 0.22 mg KOH / g as measured according to IUPAC 2.201(m). According to the present invention, an acid value of at most 0.2 mg KOH / g is preferred as measured according to IUPAC 2.201(m).

[0017] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it is advantageous that the sunflower oil obtained from hybrid sunflowers (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) has a peroxide value of at most 1.1 meq / kg as measured according to AOCS Cd8b-90(m). According to the present invention, a peroxide value of at most 1.0 meq / kg as measured according to AOCS Cd8b-90(m) is preferred.

[0018] According to the present invention, an advantageous embodiment of the lipstick according to the present invention is characterized in that its preparation contains ascorbyl palmitate.

[0019] According to the present invention, a content of 0.01 to 0.05% by weight of ascorbyl palmitate, based on the total weight of the preparation, is advantageous.

[0020] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it is advantageous when the lipstick preparation contains lecithin.

[0021] According to the present invention, a content of 0.05 to 0.1% by weight of lecithin, based on the total weight of the preparation, is advantageous.

[0022] An advantageous embodiment of the lipstick according to the present invention is characterized in that the preparation contains beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba) at a concentration of 10 to 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the present invention, a content of 13 to 15% by weight is preferred.

[0023] According to the present invention, it is advantageous when the lipstick preparation contains rapeseed wax (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) at a concentration of 8 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the present invention, a content of 11 to 13% by weight is preferred.

[0024] Furthermore, according to the present invention, it is advantageous when the lipstick preparation contains sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Hybrid Oil) obtained from hybrid sunflowers at a concentration of 60 to 80% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation. According to the present invention, a content of 65 to 75% by weight is preferred based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0025] An advantageous embodiment of the present invention is further characterized by the fact that the preparation contains shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter). In such a case, according to the present invention, it is preferred when the preparation contains 1 to 7% by weight of shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter) based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0026] According to the present invention, it is also advantageous when the preparation contains tocopherol. This can be used at a concentration of 0.05 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the preparation.

[0027] An advantageous embodiment of the present invention is also obtained by the preparation not containing 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate), 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone), methyl anthranilate (INCI: Methyl Anthraliate) and sulisobenzone (INCI: benzophenone-4), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ether and polyethylene glycol ester (so-called PEG derivatives), not containing polyacrylate, not containing parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin.

[0028] In particular, according to the present invention, the lip stick preparation is advantageous when it does not contain petrolatum, paraffin, mineral oil, silicone oil, and silicone wax.

[0029] The advantageous lip stick according to the present invention is further characterized in that the difference in penetration depth between the standard needle of 2.5 g (order number 18 - 0063, Petrotest Instruments) and the conical needle of 2.5 g (order number 18 - 0081, Petrotest Instruments) at a penetration time of 5 seconds at 20 °C in a penetration test using an electronic gravity penetrometer Petrotest PNR 10 is less than 1.8 mm.

[0030] Generally, penetrability is an investigation of the consistency of highly viscous deformable substances. In this case, a needle - shaped or conical test body is placed on the surface of the sample using a drop bar (clamp shaft and guide shaft), in this case 47.5 g (order number 18 - 0042, Petrotest Instruments), so that the test body drops from the drop bar by its own weight within a specified time and the needle penetrates the test material. The penetration depth of the test body is measured in millimeters and serves as a measure of plasticity or viscosity.

[0031] The investigation was carried out using an electronic gravity penetrometer Petrotest PNR 10. When applied to examine a lip cream stick, the test material (lip cream stick within the packaging material) is positioned on the test surface. First, the test bodies, in this case two different needles (referenced above), are fixed to the drop bar (referenced above), then placed on the surface of the lip cream stick, and finally dropped by triggering. At a specified time of 5 seconds, the test bodies penetrate the mass of the lip cream stick by their own weight (drop bar + needle), and the penetration depth can be read after this time has elapsed.

[0032] Furthermore, the lip stick according to this invention can contain components typical of such products, such as, for example, colorants, fragrances, UV filters, and the like.

[0033] According to the present invention, the lip stick preparation preferably contains one or more UV filters selected from the group consisting of the compound 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), 2-ethylhexyl 2-hydroxybenzoate (INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate), 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), and 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane).

[0034] According to the present invention, the use of a combination of 2,4,6-tris[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone) and 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) is particularly preferred.

[0035] According to the present invention, in particular, the method for manufacturing the lip stick according to any of the above claims is characterized in that all components are dissolved while stirring, then poured into a mold at a temperature of about 57°C to 63°C, and finally taken out after cooling the mold together with the poured formulation at 17°C to 23°C for a specified time.

[0036] Comparative test The following formulations were prepared and the penetration was measured according to the method of the present invention described above.

[0037]

Table 1

[0038]

Table 2

[0039] Example The following examples are for the purpose of illustrating the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, all amounts, ratios, and percentages are based on the weight and total amount of the preparation, or the total weight.

[0040] [Table 3]

Claims

1. a) Beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba), b) Rapeseed wax (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) and c) Sunflower oil obtained from hybrid sunflowers (INCI: Helianthus annuus hybrid oil) Lipsticks that include combinations of lipsticks.

2. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annúus hybrid oil) obtained from the aforementioned hybrid sunflower has an oleic acid content (C18:1) of 60% to 95% as measured according to IUPAC 2.

304.

3. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annúus hybrid oil) obtained from the aforementioned hybrid sunflower has a maximum acid value of 0.22 mg KOH / g as measured according to IUPAC 2.201(m).

4. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annúus hybrid oil) obtained from the aforementioned hybrid sunflower has a peroxide value of up to 1.1 meq / kg as measured according to AOCS Cd8b-90(m).

5. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains ascorbyl palmitate.

6. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the prepared product contains lecithin.

7. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains beeswax (INCI: Cera Alba) at a concentration of 10 to 18% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains rapeseed wax (INCI: hydrogenated rapeseed oil) at a concentration of 8 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

9. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annúus hybrid oil) obtained from hybrid sunflowers at a concentration of 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

10. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii butter).

11. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains 1 to 7% by weight of shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii butter) based on the total weight of the preparation.

12. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation contains tocopherol.

13. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation does not contain 2-ethylhexyl acrylate 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl (octocrylene), homomenthyl salicylate (homosalate), 4-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (oxybenzone), methyl anthralinate (INCI: methyl anthralate), sulisobenzon (INCI: benzophenone-4), polyethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol ether, and polyethylene glycol ester (so-called PEG derivatives), does not contain polyacrylate, and does not contain parabens, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone, and DMDM ​​hydantoin.

14. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation does not contain petrolatum, paraffin, mineral oil, silicone oil, or silicone wax.

15. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the difference in penetration depth between a standard needle and a conical needle in a penetration test at 20°C with a penetration time of 5 seconds is less than 1.8 mm.

16. The lipstick according to claim 1, characterized in that the preparation of the lipstick contains one or more UV filters selected from the group consisting of the compounds 2,4,6-tris-[anilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)]-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), 2-hydroxybenzoate 2-ethylhexyl (INCI: ethylhexyl salicylate), 2,4-bis{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), and 4-(tert-butyl)-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane).

17. A method for producing a lipstick according to any one of claims 1 to 16, characterized by dissolving all the ingredients while stirring, then pouring the mixture into a mold at a temperature of approximately 57°C to 63°C, and finally removing the mold after cooling it with the poured mixture at 17°C to 23°C for a specified time.