Compositions based on chitosan and specific compounds

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) natural chitosan in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and this amount strictly less than 15% by mass, and b) at least one compound selected from carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, or sulfate-type anionic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) natural chitosan, which is at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, has a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons, and this amount is strictly less than 15% by weight, and b) at least one compound selected from carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, or sulfate-type anionic surfactants, and / or mixtures thereof. The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetically treating and / or caring for the skin and / or keratinous appendages, which comprises applying the composition according to the invention to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

[0002] Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for cosmetically treating and / or caring for the skin and / or keratinous appendages, which comprises applying the composition according to the invention to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

Background Art

[0003] For many cosmetic compositions, after application to keratinous substances, resistant properties of the deposited film are desired. Examples include lipstick or nail polish. For the purpose of obtaining such results, special raw materials, particularly film formers, can be combined. However, the presence of such agents to increase the resistance of the film on keratinous substances can lead to compositions that cause drying. Furthermore, commonly used film formers are typically silicone or acrylic polymers, etc., which have petrochemical properties.

[0004] In other respects, the goal is often to obtain a coating composition.

[0005] Chitosan-based systems have been shown to be able to produce films resistant to both drying and oily friction using a combination of chitosan and pigments. Nevertheless, the sensitivity of these deposits to water remains very high and continues to be a major problem for chitosan-based technologies.

[0006] Therefore, compounders are seeking raw materials and / or systems that will enable them to obtain fluid (i.e., flowable) chitosan-based compositions whose deposits are coating, homogeneous, durable, and more water-resistant.

[0007] Furthermore, environmentally conscious cosmetics—that is, cosmetic formulations whose design and development take environmental issues into consideration—are beginning to become a major concern in helping to address global challenges.

[0008] Therefore, in order to address these environmental challenges, it is essential to present more sustainable compositions, and / or preparation methods, and / or components.

[0009] In this context, it is particularly important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or raw materials with a good naturalness index and / or naturally derived materials, more specifically plant-derived raw materials, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds. [Prior art documents] [Patent Documents]

[0010] [Patent Document 1] International patent application WO03068824 [Patent Document 2] French Patent No. 2679771 [Patent Document 3] EP1184426 [Non-patent literature]

[0011] [Non-Patent Document 1] Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. [Overview of the Initiative] [Problems that the invention aims to solve]

[0012] The object of the present invention is to provide an aqueous cosmetic composition, whether colored or uncolored, that has good properties, particularly in terms of uniformity and durability, and especially good durability / resistance to water.

[0013] After application, these compositions leave a film-forming deposit with good coverage and uniformity, as well as good resistance to abrasion. The resulting colored film is adhesive and tacky, and has improved water resistance.

[0014] Furthermore, these compositions contain sustainable ingredients and help address environmental challenges. [Means for solving the problem]

[0015] Therefore, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for the skin and / or lips, and especially for cosmetic and / or care of the skin, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. a) Natural chitosan in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and this amount strictly less than 15% by mass, b) At least one compound selected from carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, or sulfate-type anionic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof This relates to cosmetic compositions, including [specific ingredient / component].

[0016] "Physiologically acceptable" refers to a medium that is compatible with keratinic substances.

[0017] Furthermore, the present invention relates to a method for cosmeticizing and / or caring for skin and / or keratinous appendages, wherein a composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

[0018] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention substantially does not contain a (meth)acrylic acid polymer. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention substantially does not contain silicone.

[0019] "Substantially does not contain a (meth)acrylic acid polymer" means that the composition contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, more preferably less than 0.1% by mass of a (meth)acrylic acid polymer based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not contain any (meth)acrylic acid polymer at all. "(Meth)acrylic acid polymer" means a polymer containing at least one acrylic acid monomer or at least one methacrylic acid monomer.

[0020] "Substantially does not contain silicone" means that the composition contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, more preferably less than 0.1% by mass of silicone based on the total mass of the composition. Preferably, the composition does not contain any silicone at all. "Silicone" means any silicone compound.

[0021] Chitosan The composition according to the present invention contains at least 0.01% by mass, strictly at least one natural chitosan having a molecular weight greater than 3000 daltons (3 kDa) based on the total mass of the composition.

[0022] The amount of natural chitosan is strictly less than 15% by mass based on the total mass of the composition.

[0023] Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more. Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

[0024] Chitosan is not widely found in nature. It has only been reported in the exoskeleton of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of certain types of fungi, namely zygomycetes.

[0025] Chitosan is obtained by the deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units interconnected by β-(1,4) type bonds.

[0026] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic (1→4) bonds.

[0027] According to the present invention, "chitosan" means any copolymer formed by N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent units, wherein the degree of acetylation is less than 90%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) interconnected by β(1,4) type bonds, and represents a poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type polymer.

[0028] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is 80% or less, preferably 70% or less, preferably 60% or less, preferably 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, and preferably 15% or less.

[0029] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units, and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (IFTIR) or titration using a strong base.

[0030] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, the chitosan is extracted and purified from a safe and abundant food-grade or biotechnology-grade fungal source such as mushroom (Agaricus Bisporus) or black mold (Aspergillus Niger).

[0031] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of fungi of the Ascomycete type, particularly Aspergillus oryzae and / or Basidiomycete fungus, particularly Lentinula edodes and / or button mushrooms. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus oryzae.

[0032] The chitosan may be of GMO origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.

[0033] The chitosan according to the present invention is natural, that is, unmodified. In particular, the chitosan according to the present invention is not subjected to any chemical modification.

[0034] One method for preparing chitosan is described in international patent application WO03068824.

[0035] Preferably, the chitosan used in this invention is in powder form. It is sold by Kitozyme under the names Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0036] Chitosan is preferably present in an amount of 0.01% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 7% by mass, and preferably 0.25% to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0037] Anionic surfactants The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants.

[0038] The term "anionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant that contains only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

[0039] In this specification, an entity is considered "anionic" if, under the conditions of use of the composition of the present invention (e.g., medium, pH), it has at least one permanent negative charge, or if it can be ionized as a negatively charged entity and does not have a cationic charge.

[0040] One or more anionic surfactants used in the present invention are selected from sulfates, sulfonates, carboxylic acids (or carboxylates), and phosphate surfactants, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0041] According to the present invention, the mass ratio of chitosan to the anionic surfactant (i.e., the mass ratio of chitosan to anionic surfactant) is between 0.1 and 10. Preferably, the mass ratio is between 0.2 and 10, more preferably between 0.3 and 5, and even more preferably between 0.5 and 3.

[0042] Carboxylate surfactants The composition according to the present invention may contain a carboxylate anionic surfactant.

[0043] The carboxylate anionic surfactant that can be used in the composition of the present invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid or carboxylate functional group (-COOH or -COO-).

[0044] Preferably, the carboxylate anionic surfactant is selected from citrates, fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids, lactic acid, and salts thereof.

[0045] One or more carboxylate anionic surfactants may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, even more preferably 0.45% to 2% by mass, and even better, 0.75% to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0046] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from fatty acids and / or salts thereof.

[0047] "Fatty acid" refers to a carboxylic acid having an aliphatic chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and more preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms. Fatty acids may be liquid or non-liquid.

[0048] Liquid fatty acids are defined as fatty acids at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), i.e., 1,013.10°C. 5 Pa) refers to fatty acids that are in liquid form.

[0049] The fatty acids of the present invention may be saturated or unsaturated.

[0050] Liquid saturated fatty acids may optionally be branched. Liquid saturated fatty acids may optionally contain at least one aromatic ring in their structure. These are preferably acyclic. Isostearic acid is a specific example.

[0051] Unsaturated fatty acids have at least one double or triple bond in their structure, preferably one or more double bonds. If multiple double bonds are present, preferably two or three, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated. These unsaturated fatty acids may be linear or branched. They may optionally contain at least one aromatic ring in their structure. They are preferably acyclic.

[0052] Fatty acids suitable for carrying out the present invention are more specifically selected from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acids containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0053] Preferably, the fatty acid is selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, linoleic acid, caprylic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and isostearic acid.

[0054] Examples of fatty acids include palmitic acid sold by Cayman Chemical, palmitic acid available under the trade name EDENOR C16-98 MY, oleic acid available under the trade name EDENOR OL 75 MY, isostearic acid available under the trade name PRISORINE 3505-LQ-(GD), and behenic acid available under the trade name PALMERA A8522.

[0055] Fatty acids may be in the form of free acids, or in a partially or completely chlorinated form. When fatty acids are in chlorinated form, this includes alkali salts or amine salts such as sodium salts, potassium salts or lithium salts; alkaline earth salts such as calcium salts, magnesium salts or strontium salts; aluminum salts, zirconium salts or zinc salts; and amino alcohol salts such as ammonium salts, (2-hydroxyethyl) salts, diethanolamine salts, triethanolamine salts or triisopropanolamine salts. Preferably, the salts are aluminum salts, magnesium salts, calcium salts, zirconium salts, zinc salts, sodium salts or potassium salts.

[0056] Examples include sodium or potassium caprate, sodium or potassium caprylate, sodium or potassium laurate, magnesium or calcium or ammonium or triethanolamine, sodium or potassium or magnesium or calcium myristate, diethanolamine or triethanolamine or triisopropanolamine, sodium or potassium or magnesium palmitate or triethanolamine, sodium or potassium or magnesium coconut oil fatty acid or triethanolamine, sodium or potassium or magnesium stearate, potassium or magnesium or calcium or ammonium or diethanolamine or triethanolamine, sodium or potassium or ammonium oleate, sodium arachidinate, or sodium or potassium or calcium behenate.

[0057] According to another embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from N-acyl amino acids and their salts.

[0058] N-acyl amino acids are amino acids that have an acyl group on the nitrogen atom of the amino acid.

[0059] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glycine, glutamic acid, or alanine. Preferably, the amino acid is selected from glycine or glutamic acid, and more preferably, the amino acid is glutamic acid.

[0060] N-acyl amino acids may be in the form of free acids, or in a partially or completely chlorinated form. When N-acyl amino acids are in chlorinated form, this includes alkali salts such as sodium, potassium, or lithium salts; alkaline earth salts such as calcium, magnesium, or strontium salts; aluminum, zirconium, or zinc salts; ammonium salts such as (2-hydroxyethyl)ammonium salts, or amino alcohol salts. Preferably, the salt is an aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salt.

[0061] N-acyl amino acids may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl groups. Preferably, the acyl group is a stearoyl group.

[0062] One example is sodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the trade name AMISOFT HS 11PF, or disodium stearoyl glutamate sold under the trade name AMISOFT HS 21P.

[0063] Preferably, the carboxylate anionic surfactant is a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, more specifically stearoyl glutamate, such as disodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, or aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0064] Preferably, the anionic surfactant is disodium stearoyl glutamate.

[0065] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises a carboxylate anionic surfactant which is a derivative of glycine and / or a salt thereof.

[0066] Preferably, the glycinate anionic surfactant is a C6-C24 acylglycinate, particularly a C10-C20 acylglycinate, more preferably a cocoyl glycinate, more preferably an alkali metal salt of cocoyl glycinate, and even more preferably sodium cocoyl glycinate.

[0067] For example, sodium cocoyl glycinate is sold by Ajinomoto Co., Inc. under the trade name Amilite® GCS.

[0068] According to another embodiment, the carboxylate anionic surfactant is selected from among citrates.

[0069] Preferably, the carboxylate anionic surfactant is glyceryl stearate citrate, which is available under the trade name AXOL C 62 PELLETS.

[0070] One or more fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids, citrates and / or salts thereof may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, even more preferably 0.45% to 2% by mass, and even better 0.75% to 1.5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0071] According to the present invention, the mass ratio of chitosan to the carboxylate anionic surfactant (i.e., the mass ratio of chitosan to anionic surfactant) is between 1 and 10. Preferably, the mass ratio is between 1 and 5, more preferably between 1 and 3, and even more preferably between 1 and 2.

[0072] Sulfonate surfactants The composition according to the present invention may contain a sulfonate anionic surfactant.

[0073] The sulfonate anionic surfactant that can be used in the composition of the present invention is a sulfonate functional group (-SO3H or -SO3H) that has at least one sulfonate functional group. - ) includes.

[0074] Sulfonate anionic surfactants can be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, N-acyl taurines, acyl isethionates; alkyl sulfolaurates; and salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, particularly 12 to 28, more preferably 14 to 24 or even 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group is preferably a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds are polyoxyalkylene, particularly polyoxyethylene, in which case they preferably contain 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

[0075] Preferably, the surfactant is a sulfosuccinate anionic surfactant selected from alkyl sulfosuccinate, alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, and alkylamide sulfosuccinate, and more preferably, the surfactant is an alkyl sulfosuccinate.

[0076] Preferably, the sulfosuccinate anionic surfactant is a C6-C24 alkyl sulfosuccinate, more preferably lauryl sulfosuccinate, even more preferably an alkali metal salt of lauryl sulfosuccinate, and even more preferably disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate.

[0077] For example, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate is sold by Evonik under the trade name Rewopol® SB 12P.

[0078] The composition according to the present invention further comprises an isethionate anionic surfactant.

[0079] Preferably, the isethionate anionic surfactant is a C6-C24 acyl isethionate, particularly a C10-C20 acyl isethionate, more preferably a cocoyl isethionate, even more preferably an alkali metal salt of cocoyl isethionate, and even more preferably sodium cocoyl isethionate.

[0080] For example, sodium cocoyl isethionate is marketed by Clariant under the trade name Hostapon® SCI, or by BASF under the trade name Jordapon® CI.

[0081] When one or more sulfonate anionic surfactants are in the form of a salt, the salt can be selected from alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, in particular amino alcohol salts, alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0082] One or more sulfonate anionic surfactants may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, even more preferably 0.45% to 2% by mass, and even better, 0.75% to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0083] According to the present invention, the mass ratio of chitosan to the sulfonate anionic surfactant (i.e., the mass ratio of chitosan to anionic surfactant) is between 1 and 10. Preferably, the mass ratio is between 1 and 5, more preferably between 1 and 3, and even more preferably between 1 and 2.

[0084] Sulfate surfactants The composition according to the present invention may contain a sulfate anionic surfactant.

[0085] The sulfate anionic surfactant that can be used in the composition of the present invention is one or more sulfate functional groups (-OSO3H or -OSO3 - ) includes.

[0086] Such surfactants can be advantageously selected from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamide sulfates, alkylamide ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, and monoglyceride sulfates, as well as their salts and mixtures thereof, wherein the alkyl groups of these compounds particularly contain 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 26, and more preferably 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0087] Preferably, one or more sulfate anionic surfactants are selected from alkyl sulfates, particularly C8-C26 alkyl sulfates, preferably C10-C22 alkyl sulfates.

[0088] Examples of sulfate anionic surfactants include sodium coco-sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, and sodium laureth sulfate.

[0089] Preferably, the compound selected from the anionic surfactants is sodium cocosulfate, which is sold under the trade name RHODAPON CAS 100N MB.

[0090] When one or more sulfate anionic surfactants are in the form of a salt, the salt can be selected from alkali metal salts such as sodium salts or potassium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, and in particular alkaline earth metal salts such as amino alcohol salts and magnesium salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] One or more sulfate anionic surfactants may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, even more preferably 0.45% to 2% by mass, and even better, 0.75% to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

[0092] According to the present invention, the mass ratio of chitosan to the sulfate anionic surfactant (i.e., the mass ratio of chitosan to anionic surfactant) is between 1 and 10. Preferably, the mass ratio is between 1 and 5, more preferably between 1 and 3, and even more preferably between 1 and 2.

[0093] Pigment coloring substances The composition according to the present invention may further contain at least one pigment-coloring substance. This pigment-coloring substance is selected from powdered colorants, such as inorganic pigments, nacres, and organic pigments.

[0094] The term “pigment” should be understood to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and are intended to color and / or adhere to a composition. Preferably, the pigment is colored (i.e., not white), inorganic or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous solutions and are intended to color and / or adhere to a composition.

[0095] The coloring substance may be present in the composition in an amount of 1% to 70% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 1% to 60% by mass, preferably 3% to 50% by mass, preferably 3% to 45% by mass, preferably 4% to 30% by mass, preferably 5% to 20% by mass, and preferably 6% to 15% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[0096] Inorganic pigments According to one particular embodiment, the pigment used in accordance with the present invention is selected from inorganic pigments.

[0097] "Inorganic pigment" means any pigment that is consistent with the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Inorganic pigments useful in this invention include zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as metal powders such as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, titanium dioxide, aluminum powder and copper powder. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, Ta2O5 in mixtures with ZnS, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2.

[0098] In the context of the present invention, the sizes of pigments useful are generally greater than 100 nm, up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. According to certain embodiments of the present invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm, up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. This size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available Malvern Master Sizer 3000® particle size analyzer, which allows for the capture of the entire particle size distribution over a wide range of particles, from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. This data is processed based on classical Mie scattering theory, which is best suited to size distributions ranging from less than a micron to several microns, and makes it possible to determine the "effective" diameter of the particles. This theory is described in detail in Chapters 9 and 10 of the book "Light Scattering by Small Particles" by Van de Hulst, HC, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size of 50% of the particle in volume.

[0099] In the context of the present invention, the inorganic pigment is more specifically iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0100] Pearlescent pigments can also be used as inorganic pigments in this invention.

[0101] The term "pearlescent pigment" should be understood to mean iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, particularly those produced or synthesized in the shells of certain mollusks that exhibit a color effect through optical interference.

[0102] The pearlescent pigment can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with organic dyes, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. The pearlescent pigment may also include mica particles on which at least two continuous layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyes are laminated on their surface. Examples of pearlescent pigments include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride. More specifically, the pearlescent pigment may have yellow, crimson, red, bronze, orange, brown, and / or copper-colored hues or luster.

[0103] Among the pigments that can be used in accordance with the present invention, there are also those that have a simple, conventional hue effect, that is, a unified and stable effect of the kind produced by conventional dyes, such as having an optical effect different from that of monochrome pigments.

[0104] For the purposes of this invention, "stable" means that there is no effect of color fluctuation depending on the viewing angle or in response to temperature changes. For example, the material can be selected from particles having metallic luster, goniochromatic colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromatic agents, optical brightening agents, and even fibers, particularly interference types. Naturally, these various materials may be combined to produce the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or to produce even newer effects according to the present invention.

[0105] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0106] Organic pigments According to another embodiment of the present invention, the pigment coloring substance is an organic, synthetic, natural pigment, or pigment of natural origin.

[0107] "Organic pigment" means any pigment that conforms to the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in Ullmann's Encyclopedia. Organic pigments can be selected from the following compounds in particular: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.

[0108] One or more organic pigments include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments systematized into color indices with reference numbers CI42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments systematized into color indices with reference numbers CI11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, green pigments systematized into color indices with reference numbers CI61565, 61570, 74260, and reference number CI1 The pigments can be selected from orange pigments systematized into color indices at 1725, 15510, 45370, and 71105; red pigments systematized into color indices at reference numbers CI12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470; and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives or phenol derivatives as described in French Patent No. 2679771.

[0109] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in Japanese Patent EP1184426. These composite pigments may, in particular, consist of particles comprising an inorganic nucleus at least partially coated with an organic pigment, and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the nucleus.

[0110] The pigment may also be lacquer.

[0111] The term lacquer refers to an insoluble pigment adsorbed onto insoluble particles, and the resulting aggregate remains insoluble during use.

[0112] Examples of inorganic substrates that adsorb dyes include alumina, silica, borosilicate, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium-aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

[0113] Among organic pigments, cochineal carmine can be cited. Mention may also be made of products known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15). 510), D&C Red 33(CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5(CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6(CI 15 985), D&C Green(CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O(CI 77 002), D&C Green 3(CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1(CI 42 090). An example of lacquer is the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0114] Filler The composition according to the present invention may further include at least one filler.

[0115] The term "filler" should be understood to mean colorless or white, inorganic or synthetic particles of any shape that are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. Generally speaking, the fillers contained in the compositions according to the present invention are not pigments or coloring substances.

[0116] Preferably, the filler is selected from cellulose particles, silica, starch, kaolin, clay, nylon, or polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) particles and mixtures thereof.

[0117] The cellulose particles that can be used according to the present invention are preferably spherical (cellulose beads).

[0118] For the purposes of this invention, a spherical particle means a solid or porous particle having a roundness parameter of at least 0.95. The roundness parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disk having the same area as the particle to the circumference of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes a particle that is perfectly spherical.

[0119] The particles preferably have an average size of less than 40 μm, preferably 1 to 20 μm, and more preferably 2 to 10 μm.

[0120] Among the cellulose particles that can be used in accordance with the present invention, those sold by Daito Chemical Industries, Ltd. under the trade name CELLULOBEADS® can be particularly mentioned, such as CELLULOBEADS USF® (D

[50] =4μm), CELLULOBEADS D-5® (D

[50] <10μm), CELLULOBEADS D-10® (D

[50] <15μm), and CELLULOBEADS D-30® (D

[50] <30μm).

[0121] Preferably, the filler is present in an amount of 0.1% to 20% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, preferably 0.2% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.3% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.4% to 5% by mass, and preferably 0.5% to 4% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[0122] Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one AHA.

[0123] According to the present invention, an alpha hydroxy acid refers to a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying the alpha position (the carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid functional group). In the final composition, this acid may be presented in the form of a free acid and / or one of its associated salts (particularly a salt containing an organic base or alkali), depending on the final pH imposed on the composition.

[0124] Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) are selected from, for example, lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvate, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aloylitic acid, ribonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0125] According to a preferred embodiment, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof. More specifically, the alpha hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, and salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

[0126] One or more alpha hydroxy acids may be present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by mass, 0.005 to 5% by mass, preferably 0.01 to 3% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0127] Physiologically acceptable aqueous media The composition according to the present invention comprises a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, the medium comprising water.

[0128] The water used may be sterilized demineralized water, and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water, or linden water, and / or spring or natural mineral water.

[0129] The composition preferably contains at least 5% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, and preferably at least 40% by mass of water based on the total mass of the composition.

[0130] The composition preferably contains 5% to 95% by mass, more preferably 10% to 85%, even more preferably 20% to 80%, even more preferably 25% to 70%, even more preferably 28% to 60%, and even more preferably 30% to 50% water based on the total mass of the composition.

[0131] The aqueous phase may also contain at least one organic solvent that is miscible with water at 25°C.

[0132] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0133] Among alcohols, C1~C 10 More preferably, C1 to C5 alcohols can be cited, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, and butanol.

[0134] The polyol is preferably selected from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0135] The composition may contain 1% to 25% by mass, more preferably 2% to 20% by mass, and even more preferably 3% to 15% by mass, of the total mass of the composition, a water-miscible organic solvent.

[0136] pH of the composition The composition according to the present invention has a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, and preferably 6.3 or less. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0137] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one base and / or at least one acid. The base and acid according to the present invention are known in the field of cosmetics and have been used conventionally.

[0138] Bases and / or acids are used, in particular, to adjust the final pH of the composition between 3 and 6.3.

[0139] The acid could be, for example, citric acid.

[0140] The base can be selected from inorganic bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide.

[0141] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0142] The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one base in an active substance content of 0.5% to 10% by mass, particularly 1% to 5% by mass, preferably 1% to 4% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0143] The composition according to the present invention can be obtained conventionally by those skilled in the art.

[0144] The following examples are intended to facilitate a better understanding of the present invention, but are not limiting in any way. The raw materials are referred to by their chemical name or INCI name. The amounts shown are, unless otherwise specified, as mass % (% w / w) of the raw materials relative to the total mass of the composition. [Examples]

[0145] Preparation of the composition according to the present invention and comparison with comparative compositions Compositions B to J and comparative composition A according to the present invention were prepared by mixing the components in Table 1.

[0146] During the mixing process, the mixture was heated to 60°C to achieve uniformity.

[0147] Protocol for coating a composition to form a film The product is applied using an Elcometer 4340 applicator, which allows for adjustment of the application speed and length. The applicator is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump to prevent movement of the support on which the product is applied. A contrast chart with a black background and a matte white background is used (1 Biko chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). The application thickness can be adjusted by using a square spreader positioned on the support, allowing for flat application when the platform is switched on. Each section of the spreader allows for application of the product to different thicknesses ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. A thickness of 25 μm is selected to approximate the in vivo film thickness. A weight of 960 g is applied to the top of the spreader during application. The application speed is set to 1 inch / second, or 2.54 cm / second. The film is dried for 24 hours at room temperature and humidity (50% relative humidity).

[0148] Protocol for friction resistance testing The water friction resistance test is performed by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion. The abrasion is performed by applying a damp cloth (Chicopee Veraclean Polish Plus) containing 400 μL of water to the 25 μm portion of the spreader. A weight of 960 g is applied to the top of the spreader during abrasion. The speed of the platform is set to 2.54 cm / second.

[0149] As explained above, the same spectrophotometric method is used to measure the color before and after abrasion.

[0150] To evaluate friction resistance, the "contrast ratio (CR)" is measured before friction (CR dry adhesion, %) and after abrasion (CR friction dry adhesion, %). Loss in percentage: [(CR friction dry adhesion - CR dry adhesion) / CR dry adhesion] * A value of 100 quantifies the loss of coverage and indicates the film's resistance to friction. The lower this loss, the more resistant the film is to friction.

[0151] Therefore, each CR value represents the average of 3 to 6 measurements. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0152] [Table 1A]

[0153] [Table 1B]

[0154] The results show that compositions B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, and J according to the present invention exhibit better water resistance compared to comparative composition A. Thus, the use of anionic surfactants in the present invention results in water resistance.

[0155] The effect of anionic surfactant content on water resistance Compositions K, L, M, and N according to the present invention, as well as comparative composition O, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2.

[0156] Compositions K, L, M, and N according to the present invention contain a pigment and disodium stearoyl glutamate in an amount ranging from 0.45% to 1.5% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0157] Comparative composition O contains chitosan in addition to the pigment, but does not contain anionic surfactants.

[0158] Next, we evaluate the water resistance. The evaluation protocol is as follows: - Apply each composition to a region of the forearm (using an additional forearm region as a control): To do this, apply 10 μl of each composition to a forearm region measured as 2.5 × 2.5 cm for 15 seconds. - Dry for 20 minutes - Place 100 μL of water on a cotton friction cloth. - Use a 900g weight to apply a cotton cloth to the treatment area for 5 seconds. - Remove cotton cloth using a force between 100 and 300g. - Visually evaluate the water friction adhesion of the control deposit. This evaluation includes a water resistance score ranging from (-) = no water resistance to (+++++) = excellent water resistance.

[0159] [Table 2]

[0160] The results show that compositions K, L, M, and N according to the present invention exhibit improved water resistance compared to comparative composition O. This improvement in water resistance is observed when the amount of anionic surfactant is 1.5%. Thus, in the compositions according to the present invention, the use of a larger amount (1.5%) of anionic surfactant leads to improved water resistance.

[0161] Effect of pigment content on water resistance and coating properties Compositions R, S, and T according to the present invention, as well as comparative compositions P and Q, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 3.

[0162] Compositions R, S, and T according to the present invention contain a pigment in an amount ranging from 1% by mass to 70% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0163] Comparative composition P contains less than 1% by mass (i.e., 0.5% by mass) of pigment relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0164] Comparative composition Q contains more than 70% by mass (i.e., 72% by mass) of pigment relative to the total mass of the composition.

[0165] Water friction resistance and coating properties are evaluated by colorimetric measurements on the dried film before and after abrasion, following the same protocol detailed above.

[0166] [Table 3]

[0167] Compositions R, S, and T according to the present invention exhibit significantly superior levels of coverage and good water resistance compared to comparative compositions A, P, or Q.

[0168] The results indicate that formulation of compositions containing more than 70% by mass of pigment is impossible. In fact, comparative composition Q is a solid and heterogeneous, and therefore unformulable.

[0169] Comparative composition P shows that at least 1% by mass of pigment is needed to achieve minimal coverage. In fact, the initial CR is too low.

Claims

1. Cosmetic compositions, particularly for the skin and / or lips, especially for cosmetic and / or care of the skin, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) Natural chitosan in an amount of at least 0.01% by mass relative to the total mass of the composition, with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 daltons and this amount strictly less than 15% by mass, b) At least one compound selected from carboxylate, phosphate, sulfonate, or sulfate-type anionic surfactants and / or mixtures thereof A cosmetic composition containing [the specified ingredient].

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the natural chitosan has a molecular weight of 10 kDa or more, preferably 15 kDa or more, preferably 20 kDa or more, and preferably the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the degree of acetylation of the natural chitosan is 80% or less, preferably 70% or less, preferably 60% or less, preferably 50% or less, preferably 35% or less, preferably 25% or less, and preferably 15% or less.

4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the natural chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source preferably derived from the mycelium of an ascomycete fungus, particularly Aspergillus oryzae and / or basidiomycetes, particularly shiitake and / or button mushrooms, and preferably the fungus is Aspergillus oryzae.

5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein natural chitosan is present in an amount of 0.01% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 14% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 12% by mass, preferably 0.2% to 7% by mass, and preferably 0.25% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

6. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising at least one compound selected from pigment colorants and fillers, preferably comprising at least one compound selected from pigment colorants, preferably comprising at least one pigment colorant selected from inorganic pigments, pearlescent agents and organic pigments.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the pigment coloring substance is an inorganic pigment selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and iron blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, pearlescent agents and monochrome pigments, and / or the filler is selected from cellulose particles, silica, starch, kaolin, clay, nylon and mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to claim 6, wherein the pigment coloring substance is an organic pigment selected from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone.

9. The composition according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the pigment coloring substance is selected from inorganic pigments, preferably titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide or chromium oxide and mixtures thereof, and preferably the pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 9, wherein the pigment coloring substance is present in an amount of 1% to 70% by mass, preferably 1% to 60% by mass, preferably 1% to 50% by mass, preferably 3% to 45% by mass, preferably 4% to 30% by mass, preferably 5% to 20% by mass, and preferably 6% to 15% by mass, based on the mass of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the compound selected from anionic surfactants is a carboxylate anionic surfactant selected from citrates, fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids, lactic acid and / or salts thereof.

12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the carboxylate anionic surfactant is selected from fatty acids and / or salts thereof, specifically from stearic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, linolenic acid, caprylic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and isostearic acid.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the anionic surfactant is an N-acyl amino acid containing an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example, 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, or cocoyl group, and preferably the acyl group is a stearoyl group.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the anionic surfactant is disodium stearoyl glutamate.

15. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from alkyl sulfosuccinate, alkyl ether sulfosuccinate, and alkylamide sulfosuccinate, and preferably is alkyl sulfosuccinate.

16. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein an anionic surfactant selected from citrates, fatty acids, N-acyl amino acids, lactic acid and / or salts thereof is present in the composition in an amount of 0.1% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 3% by mass, even more preferably 0.45% to 2% by mass, and even better 0.75% to 1.5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.

17. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, wherein the physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprises at least 5% by mass, preferably at least 10% by mass, preferably at least 20% by mass, preferably at least 30% by mass, preferably at least 40% by mass of water based on the total mass of the composition; preferably 5% to 95% by mass, more preferably 10% to 85%, even more preferably 20% to 80%, even more preferably 25% to 70%, even more preferably 28% to 60%, and even more preferably 30% to 50% of water based on the total mass of the composition; and optionally comprising at least one organic solvent miscible in water at 25°C, selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

18. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, wherein the mass ratio of chitosan to an anionic surfactant (i.e., the mass ratio of chitosan to anionic surfactant) is between 0.1 and 10, preferably between 0.2 and 10, more preferably between 0.3 and 5, and even more preferably between 0.5 and 3.

19. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, preferably comprising at least one alpha hydroxy acid selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyllactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, aloylitic acid, ribonic acid, tartaric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, salts thereof, and mixtures thereof.

20. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, which is substantially free of (meth)acrylic polymer and / or silicone; preferably contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass of (meth)acrylic polymer based on the total mass of the composition, preferably free of (meth)acrylic polymer; preferably contains less than 1% by mass, preferably less than 0.5% by mass, preferably less than 0.3% by mass, preferably 0.1% by mass of silicone based on the total mass of the composition, preferably free of silicone.

21. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20, having a pH of 7 or less, preferably 6.5 or less, preferably 6.3 or less, preferably between 3 and 6.3, and preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

22. A method for cosmeticizing and / or caring for skin and / or keratinous appendages, comprising applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21 to the skin and / or keratinous appendages.

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