Composition comprising a modified polysaccharide and a specific organic compound

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, notably for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound, of general formula CnH2nO3 in which the index n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9, preferably such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9; and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one ester or ether function; and b) at least one modified polysaccharide.

Description

Composition comprising a modified polysaccharide and a specific organic compound

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0002] a) at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound, of general formula CnH2nO3in which the index n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 5 and 9, limits inclusive), preferably such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 6 and 9, limits inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from carboxylic ester or ether oxide; and

[0003] b) at least one modified polysaccharide.

[0004] The invention also relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or skin integuments, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or skin integuments.

[0005] Cosmetic makeup compositions very often contain volatile compounds. These compounds are necessary first of all to offer sensory qualities and textures to users when applying cosmetic products. Furthermore, these volatile compounds participate in expressing the final properties of the product film applied to the skin, such as the coverage and homogeneity of the film.

[0006] There are several chemical classes of cosmetic volatile compounds, which can be lipophilic or hydrophilic. The main lipophilic cosmetic volatile compounds are, firstly, hydrocarbon-based compounds, which may be of mineral, plant or animal origin, and, secondly, synthetic silicones. Among the hydrocarbon-based compounds, alkanes are increasingly being used in order to limit the use of volatile silicones in cosmetic products, particularly in products based on natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin. However, it turns out that the alkanes used for this purpose are apolar molecules, which do not have optimal compatibility properties with a wide variety of cosmetic ingredients such as dyestuffs or polymers used for their film-forming and skin-persistence properties.

[0007] The main hydrophilic compounds such as water, or hydrophilic volatile solvents, such as ethanol and isopropanol, which are polar, do not themselves either have optimal properties of compatibility with a wide variety of polymers or pigments.

[0008] In anhydrous compositions, in order to increase the polarity of the medium, it is possible to mix the alkanes with absolute ethanol. However, absolute ethanol is not always compatible with colouring starting materials or other cosmetic starting materials such as polymers. Moreover, ethanol can be a source of discomfort, thus requiring that a limit be imposed on its level in cosmetic compositions. Furthermore, ethanol has a very low flash point (13°C), which requires the implementation of safety measures when using this solvent pure, but also when manufacturing, storing and transporting cosmetic products containing ethanol. Finally, the very high volatility of ethanol can lead to a very short playtime, which can result in depreciation of the cosmetic product.

[0009] The “playtime” of a cosmetic product corresponds to the time during which the user can work it during its application, notably on the skin, and thus reflects the ease of application of the product. The playtime can play a key role in the effectiveness of a cosmetic care and / or makeup protocol. As an example, the technique of “contouring” is a cosmetic technique for sculpting the face, which requires roughly applying a light tint to the areas to be illuminated and a dark tint to the volumes to be refined and then merging the two tints with a finger or brush for a unified and natural rendering. The playtime of the tinted compositions used must be long enough to allow the different steps of making up: applying, merging different tints, blending, etc. Thus, the playtime can have a real impact on the ease of application, on the perception of a cosmetic product, and on the final rendering, in particular of a makeup.

[0010] It is therefore necessary to find polar volatile compounds which are favourable to the effective dispersion, in all types of aqueous and / or oily formulas, of the cosmetic ingredients, notably those which drive the wear resistance, such as film-forming polymers, polysaccharides or resins, and also dyestuffs, pigments and fillers, irrespective of their nature or their surface, notably with or without coating, and which also allow proper expression of the colouristic properties on deposition, notably in terms of homogeneity and coverage, while at the same time ensuring good sensory properties on application and sufficient playtime.

[0011] The term “colouristic properties on deposition” means both the makeup performance (colour, homogeneity, coverage, or even gloss) and the photoprotection performance according to the same criteria (colour, homogeneity, coverage), notably as regards the inorganic pigments of the photoprotection or inorganic UV-screening agents.

[0012] The formulator is therefore in search of starting materials and / or systems that can afford stable compositions which provide a covering, homogeneous deposit with good playtime, while at the same time leaving a comfortable film, which may be glossy (with controlled gloss), and which has good staying power on keratin materials, preferably the skin.

[0013] Moreover, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e., products designed and developed while taking account of environmental issues, is becoming a major concern in helping to meet global challenges.

[0014] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients, thus enabling these environmental challenges to be met.

[0015] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, notably by promoting the use of raw materials that at least partly are renewable and / or have a good naturalness index and / or are of natural origin and as far as possible of plant origin, while increasingly reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0016] The difficulty remains, however, in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not, however, want to give up the very high performance qualities to which they have become accustomed regarding the products they already use, which notably comprise film-forming silicone polymers.

[0017] The search is thus still on for makeup compositions which perform well, are comfortable and also have very good staying power, without it being necessary to use the film-forming polymers conventionally used, notably silicone polymers, and which are more environmentally friendly, for example by using a larger number of natural compounds or compounds of natural origin.

[0018] The aim of the present invention is to provide cosmetic compositions, which are preferably coloured, which have good film-forming properties, notably in terms of homogeneity, coverage, gloss and sufficient playtime to guarantee, on use, a spreading quality and a sensory experience that are in accordance with the expectations of the user of these compositions.

[0019] The Applicant has discovered, unexpectedly, that these objectives can be achieved with a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of a polar solvent having a particular chemical structure and physicochemical properties with at least one modified polysaccharide, and optionally a colouring raw material, allowing the production of fluid to viscous, or even solid, cosmetic products which have a good quality for dispersing modified polysaccharides, and also optionally dyestuffs, good playtime, good homogeneity of the deposit and good coverage. Specifically, after application, these compositions leave a film-forming deposit that is covering and homogeneous, with good staying power, which is notably dry friction wear resistant, water and oil resistant, and resistant to chemical agents and to transfer. These compositions may also contain more sustainable ingredients, thus making it possible to meet environmental challenges.

[0020] One subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic composition, notably for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, in particular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

[0021] - at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound a), of general formula CnH2nO3in which the index n is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9 (n is an integer between 6 and 9, limits inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from carboxylic ester (referred to hereinbelow as “ester”) or ether oxide (referred to hereinbelow as “ether”); and

[0022] - at least one modified polysaccharide b);

[0023] and optionally at least one compound chosen from pigmentary dyestuffs.

[0024] The term “physiologically acceptable” refers to a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

[0025] One subject of the invention is notably a cosmetic composition, notably for making up and / or caring for the skin of the body or face, in particular the face, and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the hair; in particular the skin of the face; comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:

[0026] - at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound a), of general formula CnH2nO3in which the index n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 5 and 9, limits inclusive), preferably such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9 (n is an integer between 6 and 9, limits inclusive), and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from carboxylic ester (referred to hereinbelow as “ester”) or ether oxide (referred to hereinbelow as “ether”); and

[0027] - at least one modified polysaccharide b);

[0028] and may also optionally comprise at least one of the following ingredients and mixtures thereof:

[0029] - at least one crystallizable fatty substance b’); and / or

[0030] - at least one polyester c) which is the product of reaction of components (i), (ii) and (iii) below: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monoacid; and / or

[0031] - at least one compound chosen from pigmentary dyestuffs d); and / or

[0032] - at least one linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol; and / or

[0033] - at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, which is notably different from compound a); and / or

[0034] - at least water.

[0035] A subject of the invention is also a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or skin integuments, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or skin integuments.

[0036] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The composition according to the invention is preferably substantially free of silicone oil, or is even silicone-free.

[0038] The term “substantially free of silicone” means that the composition comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% of silicone oil, preferably of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone. The term “silicone” means any silicone compound.Compound a)

[0039] The composition of the invention comprises at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic (at least partially cyclic) or non-cyclic, organic compound, of general formula CnH2nO3in which the index n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 5 and 9, limits inclusive), preferably such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9, in other words n is an integer between 6 and 9, limits inclusive; and said compound of formula CnH2nO3comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from carboxylic ester or ether oxide.

[0040] The flash point of said compound a) is advantageously between 20°C and 120°C, preferably between 25°C and 115°C, preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferentially between 35°C and 107°C, preferentially between 40°C and 105°C, or even between 45°C and 100°C.

[0041] The flash point (FP) is the lowest temperature of a test sample of a product, brought to a barometric pressure of 101.3 kPa, at which the presentation of an ignition source causes ignition of its vapours after a short period of time, the flame propagating on the surface of the liquid, operating under the prescribed test conditions. If the heat source is removed, ignition stops. This control method follows the international standard ISO 3679: 2015 (Method A – flash no-flash test, closed cup equilibrium). A Setaflash Series 8 Active Cool Flash Point Tester instrument can be used.

[0042] Compound a) advantageously has a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably a vapour pressure of from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, particularly from 3 Pa to 2000 Pa, or even from 3 Pa to 1000 Pa, and more particularly from 4 Pa to 500 Pa. The vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (standard OECD 104).

[0043] Advantageously, said compound a) is chosen from those including a hydroxyl group and two ether functions, preferably comprising at least one cyclic ether function, preferably comprising a cyclic ether containing two ether functions, such as a dioxane ring or a dioxolane ring; preferably, said compound a) comprises a hydroxyl group and a 1,3-dioxolane ring, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, in this case, the index n of the compound a) is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 8 (n is between 6 and 8 inclusive). Preferably, said compound a) is then chosen from 2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane (or isopropylidene glycerol), 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, (4S)-(+)-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] According to a second embodiment, said compound a) is chosen from hydroxycarboxylic esters in which the index n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9 (in other words, n is an integer between 5 and 9, limits inclusive), preferably in which the index n is an integer such that 7 ≤ n ≤ 9 (n is between 7 and 9, limits inclusive). Preferably, said compound a) is thus chosen from ethyl lactate, propyl lactate, isopropyl lactate, butyl glycolate, butyl lactate, isobutyl lactate, methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate, tert-butyl 3-hydroxypropanoate, pentyl 2-hydroxypropanoate or amyl lactate, isopentyl 2-hydroxypropanoate or isoamyl lactate, hexyl 2-hydroxypropanoate or hexyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Preferably, compound a) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, preferably from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90%, preferably from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 25% by weight, or even from 5% to 20%, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of compound a), relative to the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.

[0046] Preferably, compound a) is present in a content of less than 80% by weight, preferably less than 70% by weight, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, or even less than 40% by weight, better still less than 30%, or even less than 20%, notably less than 15%, or even less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.

[0047] Thus, the solvents of the invention correspond, for example, to lactic acid or dioxolane derivatives. They may optionally contain rings.

[0048] By way of example, the following compounds a) may be mentioned:

[0049] Empirical formulaINCI NameChemical structureFlash point (°C) (suppliers)Mw (g / mol)C5H10O3Ethyl lactate 56118C6H12O3Isopropylidene glycerol 91132C6H12O3Propyl lactate 57132C6H12O3Butyl glycolate 74132C7H14O34-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane 66-92146C7H14O3(4S)-(+)-4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane 101146C7H14O3Butyl Lactate 69-79146C7H14O3Isobutyl lactate 67146C7H14O3Methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate 85146C7H14O3tert-Butyl 3-hydroxypropionate 84146C8H16O3Amyl lactate 79160C8H16O3Isoamyl lactate 74-78160C9H18O3Hexyl lactate 100174

[0050] As examples of preferred lactates, mention may notably be made of isopropyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7) and hexyl lactate (C9).

[0051] As examples of compounds a), mention may also be made of isopropylidene glycerol, also known as 2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane, or 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol.

[0052] Butyl lactate and isopropylidene glycerol are among the preferred compounds a) of the invention.

[0053] Compound a) advantageously forms a polar volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent that is particularly compatible with the modified polysaccharide(s) b) according to the invention, and also with the optional pigmentary dyestuff d).

[0054] Other possible polar volatile hydrocarbon-based solvents

[0055] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional “polar volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent”, different from compound a) according to the invention.

[0056] For the purposes of the invention, the term “volatile solvent” means any solvent for the pigmentary dyestuff(s) b) according to the invention that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, preferably in less than 30 minutes, when applied as a thin film of 10 µm wet thickness, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile solvent is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at room temperature (20°C), notably having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, notably having a vapour pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, notably ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa. The vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (standard OECD 104).

[0057] The term “polar hydrocarbon-based solvent” means a solvent for the pigmentary dyestuff(s) b) according to the invention that contains mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and ketone functions.

[0058] According to a preferential form, the volatile polar hydrocarbon-based solvent(s) are chosen from C2-C4 monoalcohols.

[0059] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol, for instance ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

[0060] An advantage of the composition of the invention is that it is able to limit the content of volatile alcohol(s), which is often the cause of discomfort (dryness, tingling) without losing any solubilizing power.

[0061] If the composition comprises any, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) may advantageously be less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 30% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 15%, or even less than or equal to 10%, or even less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0062] Preferably, the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is less than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 12%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 8%, preferably less than or equal to 5%, preferably less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 2%, preferably less than or equal to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0063] In addition, if the composition comprises linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s), the content thereof is such that the weight ratio of the total amount of compound(s) a) to the total amount of volatile polar hydrocarbon-based solvent(s) other than the compound(s) a) is greater than 1, it being understood that the linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) are considered with the volatile polar hydrocarbon-based solvents other than the compound a). Thus, the composition according to the invention comprises a majority of compound a) of the invention relative to any monoalcohol(s).Modified polysaccharides b)

[0064] The composition of the invention comprises one or more modified polysaccharides.

[0065] - a “sugar” is a monosaccharide or polysaccharide radical, and the O-protected sugar derivatives thereof such as sugar esters of (C1-C6)alkylcarboxylic acids such as acetic acid, sugars containing amine group(s) and (C1-C4)alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose. Sugar radicals that may be mentioned include: sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose;

[0066] - the term “monosaccharide” refers to a mono-oside sugar comprising at least 5 carbon atoms of formula Cx(H2O)x with x an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive, preferably x = 6, they may be of D or L configuration, and of alpha or beta anomer, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as hydrates;

[0067] - the term “polysaccharide” refers to a poly-oside sugar which is a polymer constituted of several saccharides bonded together via O-oside bonds, said polymers being constituted of monosaccharide units (also known as mono-osides) as defined previously, said monosaccharide units comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, preferably 6; in particular, the mono-oside units are linked together via a 1,4 or 1,6 bond as α (alpha) or β (beta) anomer, it being possible for each oside unit to be of L or D configuration, and also the salts thereof and the solvates thereof such as the hydrates of said monosaccharides; more particularly, they are polymers formed from a certain number of saccharides (or monosaccharides) having the general formula: -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w-, where x is an integer greater than or equal to 5, preferably x is greater than or equal to 6, in particular x is between 5 and 7 inclusive and preferably x = 6, and y is an integer which represents x - 1, and w is an integer greater than or equal to 2, particularly between 3 and 3000 inclusive, more particularly between 5 and 2500, preferentially between 10 and 2300, particularly between 15 and 1000 inclusive, more particularly between 20 and 500, preferentially between 25 and 200;

[0068] Preferably, the polysaccharide(s) are thickening polymers.

[0069] The term “thickening polymer” means a polymer which, when introduced at 1% by weight into an alcoholic or lipo-alcoholic solution containing 50% ethanol, or into an oil chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecanol or cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, makes it possible to achieve a viscosity of at least 100 cps and preferably of at least 500 cps, at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1. This viscosity may be measured using a cone / plate viscometer (Haake R600 rheometer or the like).

[0070] The polysaccharide(s) that are useful for the invention are cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, preferably cationic, nonionic or anionic, better nonionic, modified with the presence of at least one cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chain comprising from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) as defined hereinbelow and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups a’) to c’) as defined hereinbelow: i) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkenyl, iii) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkynyl; preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear; a) halogens such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide –C(O)-N(Ra)2 or –C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, l) R-X with R representing a group chosen from α) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, β) heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, γ) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, δ) cosmetic active agent, m) thiosulfate and X representing a’) O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b’) S(O)r, or (thio)carbonyl, c’) or combinations of a’) with b’) such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide; Ra represents a hydrogen atom, or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, or aryl(C1-C4)alkyl such as benzyl; preferably, Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkoxy group, in particular a single substituent; and / or a’) heteroatoms such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b’) S(O)r, (thio)carbonyl, c’) or combinations of a’) with b’) such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide, with r equal to 1 or 2, Ra being as defined previously, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc being as defined previously.

[0071] The “polysaccharides” are as defined previously, and in addition, the monosaccharide units -[Cx(H2O)y)]w- or -[(CH2O)x]w- are optionally modified by substitution, oxidation, dehydration, and / or reduction.

[0072] As monosaccharide units of the polysaccharide(s) that are useful in the invention, mention may preferably be made of glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

[0073] As modified polysaccharides, mention may notably be made of those from native gums, such as those derived from tree or shrub exudates, algae, seeds or tubers, fungi, bacteria, animal organisms or plants, which have been modified physically, by chemical reaction or enzymatically.

[0074] The native gums may be chosen from:

[0075] - acacia gum (branched polysaccharide of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0076] - ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

[0077] - karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0078] - gum tragacanth (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

[0079] - agar (polymer resulting from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

[0080] - alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and of glucuronic acid);

[0081] - carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and of anhydrogalactose sulfate);

[0082] - guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0083] - locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0084] - fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose);

[0085] - tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

[0086] - konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose);

[0087] - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose / pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid) or dehydroxanthan gum;

[0088] - gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

[0089] - scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

[0090] - cellulose (glucose polymer);

[0091] - starch (glucose polymer);

[0092] - inulin; and

[0093] - pectin.

[0094] The modified polysaccharides are particularly derived from: i) gum arabic; ii) ghatti gum; iii) karaya gum; iv) gum tragacanth; v) agar; vi) alginates; vii) carrageenans and furcellerans; viii) guar gum; ix) locust bean gum; x) fenugreek gum; xi) tamarind gum; xii) konjac gum; xiii) xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; xiv) gellan gum; xv) scleroglucan gum; xvi) cellulose; xvii) starch; xviii) inulin; and xix) pectin; preferably chosen from xvi), xvii) and xviii), more preferentially xvii).

[0095] The botanical origin of the starch molecules xvii) used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0096] The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0097] According to one embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are nonionic.

[0098] These polymers may be physically or chemically modified. As a physical treatment, mention may notably be made of the temperature.

[0099] Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation, oxidation, metathesis and addition reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

[0100] Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0101] The botanical origin of the modifiable starch molecules that may be used to manufacture the modified starches according to the present invention may be cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.

[0102] The starches may be chemically or physically modified, notably by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation, heat treatments.

[0103] The starch molecules xvii) may be derived from any plant source of starch, such as maize, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat, which have been modified to bind at least one cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chain, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) as defined above; and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups a’) to c’) as defined above. Use may also be made of the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The modified starch is preferably derived from potato starch.

[0104] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are polysaccharide ethers called alkylpolysaccharides, whose alkyl radical comprises between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, and more preferentially between 2 and 6 carbon atoms.

[0105] Preferably, the alkyl polysaccharides b) according to the invention are derived from cellulose or guar or mixtures thereof.

[0106] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are alkylcelluloses, the linear or branched alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms.

[0107] The alkyl cellulose is a cellulose alkyl ether comprising a chain constituted of β-anhydroglucose units linked together via acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit contains three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or some of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction:

[0108] Cell-OM + R-Hal Cell-OR + MHal

[0109] with Hal representing a halogen, such as Cl, with M representing a cationic counterion, such as an alkali metal Na or K, or an alkaline-earth metal, preferably an alkali metal, such as Na, Cell representing a polysaccharide radical, such as cellulose, where R represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, such as methyl or ethyl, and MHal the salt generated, such as sodium chloride.

[0110] Advantageously, the alkyl cellulose is chosen from ethyl cellulose and propyl cellulose. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the alkylcellulose is ethylcellulose. It is a cellulose ethyl ether.

[0111] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to a content of alkoxy groups of between 40% and 60%, notably about 55% (54.88%).

[0112] The ethyl cellulose polymers used in a composition according to the invention are preferentially polymers with a degree of substitution with ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.

[0113] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide of the invention is ethylcellulose in pulverulent form. It is, for example, sold under the Ethocel Standard trade names by Dow Chemicals, with in particular Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium and Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those sold by Ashland, Inc. under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for performing the invention.

[0114] According to another embodiment, the polysaccharide ethers are alkyl guars, i.e. guar gums viii) modified by substitution of the hydroxyl hydrogen with a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, such as 2 carbon atoms.

[0115] The alkyl guar polymers used in a composition C1 or C’1 according to the invention are preferentially ethyl guar.

[0116] Ethyl guar is known under the INCI name: C1-C5alkyl galactomannan.

[0117] More particularly, it has a degree of substitution of 2 to 3, and notably of 2.5 to 2.8.

[0118] Alkylated guar gums (with C1-C6alkyl group), including ethyl guar, are notably described in patent application EP 708114 and document RD9537807 (October 1995), as is the process for preparing same.

[0119] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides b) are polysaccharide esters, in particular esters obtained by reaction between at least one polysaccharide such as dextrin with at least one saturated or unsaturated linear or branched acid including from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment, the modified polysaccharides of the invention are chosen from xvi) cellulose or derivatives thereof such as hydroxy(C1-C5)alkylcelluloses, xvii) starch and xviii) inulin; said polysaccharides xvi), xvii) and xviii) including at least one C8-C30fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups or mixtures thereof, in which the alkyl groups are linear or branched, preferably linear, C8-C30and in particular:

[0121] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are chosen from saccharide or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters.

[0122] Among the saccharide or polysaccharide monoalkyl or polyalkyl esters that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of dextrin or inulin alkyl or polyalkyl esters.

[0123] It may notably be a mono- or poly-ester of dextrin (dextrin being derived from starch xvii) and of at least one fatty acid (such as R-C(O)-OH) and notably corresponding to formula(XVIII)below: (XVIII)

[0124] in which formula(XVIII):

[0125] nis an integer greater than or equal to 2, preferably ranging from 3 to 200, notably ranging from 20 to 150 and in particular ranging from 25 to 50,

[0126] R1,R2andR3, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an acyl group (R-C(O)-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 7 to 29, in particular from 7 to 21, notably from 11 to 19, more particularly from 13 to 17, or even 15, carbon atoms, it being understood that at least one of said radicals R1, R2or R3is other than hydrogen.

[0127] In particular, R1, R2and R3represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-C(O)-) in which R is a hydrocarbon-based radical as defined previously, with the proviso that at least two of said radicals R1, R2or R3are other than hydrogen.

[0128] All the radicals R1, R2and R3may represent an identical or different acyl group (R-C(O)), and the acyl groups are notably identical.

[0129] In particular, n mentioned above advantageously ranges from 25 to 50 and is notably equal to 38 in the general formula of the saccharide ester that may be used in the present invention.

[0130] Notably, when the radicals R1, R2and / or R3, which may be identical or different, represent an acyl group (R-C(O)), derived from a fatty carboxylic acid R-C(O)OH, said carboxylic acid is preferably chosen from caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethylbutyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethylhexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoarachic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic and stearolic acids, and mixtures thereof.

[0131] Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate is used as fatty acid ester of dextrin. This ester may be used alone or as a mixture with other esters.

[0132] Advantageously, the fatty acid ester of dextrin has a degree of substitution of less than or equal to 2.5, notably ranging from 1.5 to 2.5 and preferably from 2 to 2.5 on the basis of one glucose unit. The weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin ester may in particular be from 10 000 to 150 000, notably from 12 000 to 100 000 and even from 15 000 to 80 000.

[0133] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide(s) of the invention are dextrin esters, and are preferably dextrin palmitates.

[0134] Dextrin esters, in particular dextrin palmitates, are commercially available under the name Rheopearl KL2®, MKL2®, TL® or KL® from the company Chiba Flour.

[0135] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified dextrin, preferably a dextrin ester, more particularly a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C12-C24fatty acid ester of dextrin.

[0136] Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C14-C24fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or a mixture thereof. According to one embodiment, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin palmitates such as Rheopearl KL2® and Rheopearl TL2®, sold by Chiba Flour, and dextrin myristate, such as the product sold under the reference Rheopearl MKL2® by Chiba Flour, dextrin palmitate / ethylhexanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl TT2®, dextrin palmitate / hexyldecanoate sold under the reference Rheopearl WX, or mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment, the modified polysaccharide denotes dextrin palmitate.

[0138] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified inulin, preferably an inulin ester, more particularly an ester of inulin and of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C12-C24fatty acid.

[0139] Preferably, the inulin ester is chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C14-C24fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid or stearic acid, preferably stearic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0140] According to one embodiment, the inulin ester is a stearoyl inulin, such as the references Rheopearl ISK2® and Rheopearl ISL2®, sold by Chiba Flour, or mixtures thereof.

[0141] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharide is a modified cellulose, preferably a cellulose ester, more particularly an ester of cellulose and of a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C24acid.

[0142] Preferably, the cellulose ester is chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C2-C10, preferably C2-C6, notably C2-C4acids, such as acetic acid, butyric acid or a mixture thereof.

[0143] According to one embodiment, the cellulose ester is cellulose acetate butyrate, such as the reference Eastman Cellulose Acetate Butyrate®, sold by Eastman Chemical.

[0144] Among the polysaccharide esters, mention may also be made of pullulan esters. Pullulan is a polysaccharide consisting of maltotriose units.

[0145] According to one embodiment, the modified polysaccharides are polysaccharide esters. The term “polysaccharide esters” means polysaccharides in which at least one of the hydroxyl radicals is esterified with an acid to form ester groups -O-C(O)-R or -C(O)-OR, in which R denotes a saturated or unsaturated radical of 2 to 30 carbon atoms, notably 11 to 19 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 17 carbon atoms, such as 13 carbon atoms.

[0146] Advantageously, the polysaccharide ester is myristoyl pullulan.

[0147] According to another embodiment (which is less preferred), the modified polysaccharide(s) of the invention are cationic. Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments to obtain at least one cationic group are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

[0148] The cationic groups may be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type, preferably quaternary, and include a C6-C30aliphatic chain.

[0149] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the modified polysaccharide(s) are chosen from quaternized (poly)hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one aliphatic chain (or fatty chain), such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof. The alkyl radicals borne by the quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups. Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-B® (C12alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18alkyl) sold by the company Dow Corning, and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C18alkyl) sold by the company Croda and the product Softcat SL 100® sold by the company Dow Corning.

[0150] The nonionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention can be modified with C1-C20(poly)hydroxylalkylammonium groups, preferably C1-C6(poly)hydroxyalkyl groups. Examples that may notably be mentioned include hydroxymethyltrimonium halide, hydroxyethyltrimonium halide, hydroxypropyltrimonium halide and hydroxybutyltrimonium halide groups, preferably hydroxypropyltrimonium halide, preferably chloride.

[0151] Such cationic guar gums modified with hydroxyalkylammonium groups are sold, for example, by the company Solvay under the trade names Cationic Jaguar® C-14S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, F Jaguar® C-13S Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, F Jaguar® C-17 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Excel Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-500 STD Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® C-162 Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Jaguar® Optima Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, and Jaguar® LS Hydroxypropyl Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride.

[0152] Preferably, the modified polysaccharide is selected from modified polysaccharides derived from gum arabic; gum ghatti; gum karaya; tragacanth gum; agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcellerans; guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, inulin; and pectin; preferably chosen from cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, inulin, more preferentially cellulose.

[0153] Advantageously, the modified polysaccharide is chosen from:

[0154] - alkylpolysaccharides whose alkyl radical comprises between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is a cellulose or guar derivative; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose whose linear or branched alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, or an alkyl guar; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is chosen from ethylcellulose, propylcellulose and ethyl guar, preferably ethylcellulose; and

[0155] - polysaccharide esters;

[0156] preferably, the modified polysaccharide is chosen from dextrin palmitate, myristoyl pullulan, ethylcellulose and ethyl guar.

[0157] The total amount of modified polysaccharide(s) present in the composition according to the invention is in the range from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 12%, preferably between 0.5% and 10% and particularly preferably from 0.7% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0158] Preferably, the weight ratio between the total amount of compound a) and the total amount of modified polysaccharide(s) b) present in the composition ranges from 0.05 to 200, more preferentially from 0.1 to 100, more preferentially from 0.2 to 50, preferably from 0.5 to 20, and preferably from 0.5 to 10.Crystallizable fatty substance b’)

[0159] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one crystallizable fatty substance.

[0160] The term “fatty substance” means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably 1% and even more preferentially 0.1%). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. The crystallizable fatty substance(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural, more preferentially of plant origin or of animal origin from insects. They are different from fatty acids since salified fatty acids constitute soaps which are generally soluble in aqueous media.

[0161] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “crystallizable fatty substance” refers to a solid lipophilic compound which may or may not be deformable at room temperature (25°C) and which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 25°C, preferably between 25°C and 200°C, preferably between 35°C and 150°C, preferably between 45°C and 130°C, preferably between 55°C and 120°C.

[0162] Some crystallizable fatty substances are commonly called waxes.

[0163] Wax(es)

[0164] According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises one or more waxes.

[0165] The term “wax” is understood to mean a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which can range up to 200°C and notably up to 120°C. In particular, the wax(es) that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C. In particular, the wax(es) that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

[0166] For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the crystallizable fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments. Such a measurement method is, for example, described in the document PCT / EP2013 / 062964.

[0167] Mention may be made, among crystallizable fatty substances of mineral origin, of: paraffin wax, ozokerite, ceresin and microcrystalline wax.

[0168] Mention may be made, among crystallizable fatty substances of vegetable origin, of: carnauba wax, candelilla wax, such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch, laurel wax, sugar cane wax, ceramide, esparto wax, olive tree wax, rice wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Rica Noda, sunflower seed wax, such as that sold by Koster Keunen under the reference sunflower wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil, polyglyceryl-3 esters of Acacia decurrens flower, jojoba and sunflower waxes, and absolute flower waxes, such as blackcurrant blossom essential wax, soybean wax, Myrica fruit wax.

[0169] Mention may be made of other crystallizable fatty substances of plant origin, such as: caranday wax, raffia wax, Colombia wax, esparto wax, alfalfa wax, bamboo wax, hemp wax, Douglas fir wax, cork wax, sisal wax, linseed wax, cotton wax, dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, ocatilla wax, palm wax, myrica wax, bayberry wax, ucuhuba wax, Borneo wax, Malabar wax, illipe wax and Japan tallow wax or Japan wax.

[0170] Mention may be made, among crystallizable fatty substances of animal origin, of: beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cera bellina), lanolin and spermaceti.

[0171] The crystallizable fatty substance(s) may also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable alcohols and mixtures thereof, for instance cetearyl alcohol (50 / 50 C16 / C18), stearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and C26-C22 alcohols.

[0172] The crystallizable fatty substance(s) may also be chosen from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof, such as the INCI compound “Cetyl esters (and) cetyl ester mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate”, or the INCI compound “Myristyl stearate and myristyl palmitate mixture”, glycol distearate, glycol stearate, cetyl palmitate such as the commercial product Ercawax CP V / O from the supplier Erca, isopropyl palmitate, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, long-chain crystallizable esters of glycerol and mixtures thereof, for instance the compound sold under the name Compritol 888 CG ATO from Gattefossé (INCI: Glyceryl Dibehenate (and) Tribehenin (and) Glyceryl Behenate) or each of its components taken separately, glycerol behenic acid triester (INCI: Tribehenin), glycerol hydroxystearic acid triester (INCI: Trihydroxystearin), tricaprin, trilaurin, trimyristin, tripalmitin, tristearin, glycerol distearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl dipalmitate / stearate and linoleoyl polyoxyl-6 glyceride. The crystallizable fatty substance(s) chosen from long-chain crystallizable esters and mixtures thereof are preferably chosen from esters of glycerol and of a C12-C24 fatty acid optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group.

[0173] The crystallizable fatty substance(s) may also be chosen from crystallizable fatty acids bearing a long alkyl chain and mixtures thereof, for instance the INCI compound “Stearic acid”, mixtures of stearic acid and palmitic acid, in particular from saturated C4-C28 fatty acids and unsaturated C4-C28 fatty acids.

[0174] The other crystallizable fatty substances that may be used according to the invention are notably marine waxes, polyethylene waxes or polyolefin waxes in general, such as α-olefin oligomers, for example the polymers Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene / propylene copolymers, such as Performalene® EP 700, or Fischer-Tropsch waxes or a mixture of these products.

[0175] Preferably, the crystallizable fatty substance is chosen from crystallizable fatty substances of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol and of C12-C24 fatty acids optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group and copolymers of sorbitol and of a C6-C16 fatty diacid esterified with C12-C24 fatty acids, preferably from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid and copolymers of sorbitol and of sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferentially chosen from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.

[0176] Preferably, the crystallizable fatty substance is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferentially between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 10% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 9% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1% and 7% by weight, preferably between 1% and 6% by weight, preferentially between 1.5% and 5%, preferably between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] According to one embodiment, the weight ratio of the amount of natural resin(s) to the amount of crystallizable fatty substance(s) is greater than or equal to 0.01, preferably greater than 0.1, preferably greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, preferably greater than 0.7, preferably greater than 0.8, preferably greater than 0.9, preferably greater than 1, preferably between 0.5 and 100, preferably between 0.6 and 50, preferably between 0.7 and 30, preferably between 0.8 and 30, preferably between 0.9 and 10, preferably between 1 and 9, preferably between 1.1 and 8, preferably between 1.2 and 7, preferably between 1.3 and 6, preferably between 1.5 and 5, preferably between 1.5 and 3.

[0178] POLYGLYCEROL-3 / DIMER ACID / FATTY MONOACID POLYESTER c)

[0179] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of components (i), (ii) and (iii) below:

[0180] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0181] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0182] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0183] the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids.

[0184] The term “polyester” is understood to mean any polymer obtained by a condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular backbone contains the repetition of its ester function. The ester function denotes a characteristic group formed of an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom via a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, the general formula of which is R-COO-R’.

[0185] The term “polyglycerol-3” means triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol, and preferably triglycerol is predominant in said mixture.

[0186] The polyesters of the invention and the synthesis thereof are described in patent applications US 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930 in the name of the company Nouryon.

[0187] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or totally nonsequential reaction product.

[0188] The term “substantially non-sequential reaction product” means the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0189] The term “totally non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii)” means that the total content of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be made to react is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0190] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) to be made to react is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction, that is to say that the reaction is totally non-sequential, and the polymer is a product of totally non-sequential reaction of the components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reagents (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0191] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and the subsequent induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

[0192] Polyglycerol-3

[0193] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly designates a glycerol residue after removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0194] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol comprises polyglycerols which can be any product of oligocondensation of glycerol. Said polyglycerols preferably correspond to formula (I): H[-O-Gly]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is a mean from 2 to 10.

[0195] Generally, the majority of the Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2-, although residues comprising etherification at secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are regarded as being within the scope of “Gly” and, consequently, may also be present.

[0196] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprise diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol and mixtures of these. In particular, preferential polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in whichnin particular has a value from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5 and notably 2, 3 or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.

[0197] Particularly appropriate examples of polyglycerol-3 comprise a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution, in which all the weight percentages are based relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture:

[0198] - glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight, preferably 0% to 20% by weight, most preferably 0% to 15% by weight;

[0199] - diglycerol: 10% to 40% by weight, preferably 15% to 35% by weight, most preferably 20% to 32% by weight;

[0200] - triglycerol: 10% to 65% by weight, preferably 15% to 60% by weight, most preferably 18% to 55% by weight;

[0201] - tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight, preferably 5% to 20% by weight, most preferably 8% to 20% by weight;

[0202] - pentaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;

[0203] - hexaglycerol: 0% to 15% by weight, preferably 0% to 10% by weight, most preferably 0% to 5% by weight;

[0204] - heptaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;

[0205] - octaglycerol: 0% to 10% by weight, preferably 0% to 5% by weight, most preferably 0% to 3% by weight;

[0206] - nonaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight;

[0207] - decaglycerol: 0% to 5% by weight, preferably 0% to 3% by weight, most preferably 0% to 2% by weight.

[0208] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprises the following distribution of polyglycerols:

[0209] Glycerol: 0% to 30% by weight;

[0210] Diglycerol: 15% to 40% by weight;

[0211] Triglycerol: 10% to 55% by weight;

[0212] Tetraglycerol: 2% to 25% by weight;

[0213] Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0214] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture is composed of at least 40% by weight, or of at least 45% by weight, or of at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and of triglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0215] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 is composed of at least 20% by weight, or of at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight, of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight, of tetraglycerol; in which all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0216] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.

[0217] The analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition may be performed so as to determine its median or “mean” polyglycerol number. The above examples of polyglycerols with narrow and broad distributions can also be denoted as polyglycerol-3 because it is a matter of the integer closest to the mean and / or median.

[0218] DIMER ACID

[0219] The dimer acid may be any dicarboxylic acid containing at least 4 carbon atoms. They may be linear or branched, for instance the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and from anhydrides thereof.

[0220] Dimer fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, these are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids which are obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0221] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference will be made to the publication “The Dimer Acids: the chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications”, Ed. E.C. Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0222] The dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture must not exceed a mean molar value of 2.4.

[0223] The preferred dimer acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in C18 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce unsaturated C18 fatty monoacids. The starting materials may be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources, such as flax seeds, soybean, pumpkin and walnut, may be used. The target monoacids used in the reaction are rich in oleic and linoleic acid forms described in the list of fatty acids contained below. Dimerization results mainly in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After reaction, the product may be stored in the form of a mixture of reaction products or it may be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions. In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimer acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0224] In one case, a standard dimer acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, which contains 72% by weight of dimer acid and 19% by weight of trimer acid, is used.

[0225] In another case, a standard hydrogenated dimer acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, which contains 87% by weight of dimer acid and 10% by weight of trimer acid, is used. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, a more hydrophobic nature and a higher viscosity than those which can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimer acid further improves the molecular weight and the performance qualities of these polymers.

[0226] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0227] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimer acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimer acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated C18 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0228] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid has a content of trimer acid ranging from about 5% to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0229] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a predominance (at least 60% by weight, more preferentially at least 75% by weight, but not more than 95% by weight, or better still not more than 90% by weight, or even better still not more than 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight).

[0230] FATTY MONOACID

[0231] The C8-C30 fatty monoacids may include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, and the like, but these contain both lower and higher MW chains. Useful fatty monoacids may be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated and aromatic materials with an acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0232] Acids that are suitable for use in the invention comprise caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecylic acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0233] The comparison of stearic acid and isostearic acid shows that the branching leads to an elevated melting point and results in a low viscosity at room temperature for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in the handling of starting materials and also to make it possible for the esters manufactured with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl branch along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isostearic acid is available as a reaction byproduct in the creation of the dimer acid described above.

[0234] Another way to obtain a liquid product consists in using unsaturated, linear and branched, fatty monoacids. These unsaturated acids can include palmitoleic acid (C16:1), vaccenic acid (C18:1), oleic acid (C18:1), elaidic acid (C18:1), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18: 2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), γ-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:1), gondoic acid (C20:1), dihomo-γ-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:1), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6) and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to a person skilled in the art, the designation means that the length of the carbon chain is X carbon atoms and that there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0235] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0236] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:

[0237] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0238] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0239] iii) isostearic acid.

[0240] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves the introduction of all the reagents into a reaction vessel and the subsequent induction of an entirely random addition of the dimer acid and of isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.

[0241] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of from 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of from 20% to 40%. Even more importantly, the degree of esterification by end-cap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description and it is important to maintain the esterification with a monoacid from 4% to 40%.

[0242] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 8% and 27%.

[0243] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimer acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 13% and 20%.

[0244] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 4% and 40%.

[0245] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid of between 8% and 27%.

[0246] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0247] It is also even more preferable to have also most preferably a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0248] In one embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of fatty acid.

[0249] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0250] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0251] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.

[0252] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0253] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0254] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mol of isostearic acid.

[0255] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mol of isostearic acid.

[0256] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mol of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0257] In another embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mol of isostearic acid.

[0258] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the reacted components are in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mol of isostearic acid.

[0259] By adjusting the mole ratio of the termination of the fatty acids and by balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and of dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer acid-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the trimer acid, results in much higher viscosities.

[0260] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50 000 mPa.s and less than 5 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0261] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75 000 mPa.s and

[0262] < 2 500 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0263] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0264] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 1 000 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0265] The viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Rough or smooth twin flat plates 50 mm in diameter were used, covered with a polymer sample, adjusted to a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention have Newtonian behaviour and thus have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. In addition, the polymers of the present description demonstrated a reduced viscosity with temperature. Thus, the viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and generally in the form of a shear rate of 1. The values are reported in mPa.s.

[0266] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by weight-average molecular masses > 2500 Da and < 1 000 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0267] The GPC column used for these tests was constituted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous tetrahydrofuran (THF) phase was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 µl injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended to be monodispersed. The narrow range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared as a mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1 290 000 Da, 560 000 Da, 65 500 Da, 28 500 Da, 10 100 Da, 1680 Da, 580 Da and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the weight- and number-average molecular mass is automatically calculated with standard GPC software.

[0268] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters described have a weight-average molecular weight > 4000 Da and < 250 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a most preferred embodiment, the polymers described have a weight-average molecular weight > 5000 Da and < 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0269] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of weight-average molecular mass > 5000 Da and < 150 000 Da, measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity at 25°C > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s.

[0270] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of substantially or totally non-sequential reaction of the following components:

[0271] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;

[0272] (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and

[0273] (iii) isostearic acid; in which the polymer has a combination of weight-average molecular mass > 5000 Da and < 15 000 Da, measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards, and of viscosity of the pure polymer > 100 000 mPa.s and < 2 000 000 mPa.s at 25°C; and in which the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with a hydrogenated dimer acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0274] In practice, given that the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (and not theoretical) hydroxyl fractions and carboxylic acid fractions, as are determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR and liquid chromatography. The above esterification ranges are based on the ideal structure of the polyglycerol-3 and of the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may thus be slightly different from the values indicated above and may be calculated on the basis of these analytical values.

[0275] It is more practical to define the extent of the polymerization by the final acid number. The initial acid numbers, in the light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid number determined by the raw ingredient used.

[0276] For example, the initial total acid number (“AV”, which is commonly defined in mg of KOH / g of total reagent), is 135 AV. This comprises 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mol of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mol of isostearic acid. All the preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV which can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage of conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0277] Thus, the degree of completion of the reaction is defined by 1 - final AV / initial AV.

[0278] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 25 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0279] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 10 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0280] In a most preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid numbers of from 0.1 to < 5 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0281] As the completion rate of the reaction is defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 80%.

[0282] In a preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 90%.

[0283] In a most preferred embodiment, the degree of completion of the reaction of such mixtures to give final polymer is > 95%.

[0284] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a product of reaction of a polyglycerol-3, of a hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and of isostearic acid in a mole ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US 2021 / 0259945.

[0285] According to a preferred variant of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising:

[0286] a) at least one polyester which is the product of reaction of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii):

[0287] (i) at least one polyglycerol-3;

[0288] (ii) at least one dimer acid; and

[0289] (iii) at least one fatty monoacid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol, of 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and of 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids; and

[0290] b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0291] Said non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from those which will be described below.

[0292] According to an advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0293] The oily solution of polyester can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the non-volatile oil(s) at about 80-100°C. The combined mixture is subsequently further cooled to 50-70°C to be discharged from the reactor and stored.

[0294] Said oily solution of polyester preferably contains the polyester at a concentration of 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially of 30% to 90% by weight, more particularly of 50% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0295] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyester of polyglycerol-3, of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and of isostearic acid, relative to the total weight of the oily solution, in a mole ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1, as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US 2021 / 0259945.

[0296] According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising:

[0297] a) a polyester obtained by reaction:

[0298] (i) of a polyglycerol-3; and

[0299] (ii) of a hydrogenated C36 dimer acid; and

[0300] (iii) of isostearic acid;

[0301] the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids; and

[0302] b) a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, said mixture having, as INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0303] Such an oily solution is sold under the name SolAmaze Natural® by the company Nouryon, comprising 60% by weight, as active material, of polyester and 40% by weight of a triglyceride of caprylic / capric acids, relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

[0304] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of active polyester material represents from 0.2% to 30%, preferably from 0.3% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 22%, preferably from 1% to 20%, or even from 1.5% to 20%, or from 2% to 18%, preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Pigmentary dyestuffs d)

[0305] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pigmentary dyestuff. For the purposes of the present invention, the pigmentary dyestuff is chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs such as inorganic pigments, nacres and organic pigments, and also includes inorganic UV screening agents, as defined below.

[0306] “Pigments” are understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous medium and are intended to colour the composition and / or resulting deposit.

[0307] The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 2% to 50% by weight, preferably from 3% to 45% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, representing 100%. Preferably, the pigmentary dyestuff is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1.5% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 25% and better still from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Inorganic pigments

[0308] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

[0309] The term “inorganic pigment” refers to any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann’s Encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Among the inorganic pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, and also zinc oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder, nacres, monochromatic pigments; and mixtures thereof.

[0310] The following inorganic pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2as a mixture with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0311] The pigment size that is of use in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[0050] of greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an “effective” particle diameter to be determined. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C.,Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[0050] represents the maximum size presented by 50% by volume of the particles.

[0312] In the context of the present invention, the inorganic pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

[0313] The pigment(s) that may be used in a composition according to the invention may be chosen, respectively, from coated and uncoated pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0314] According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0315] According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, or according to a complementary embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coated pigment.

[0316] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the inorganic pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating. The latter is preferably present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0317] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from: metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0318] According to a preferential embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with an N-acylamino acid or a salt thereof, which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, as for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.

[0319] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid derivative which may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, as for example aluminium stearoyl glutamate. As examples of pigments treated with aluminium stearoyl glutamate, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and CI77499 black, CI77491 red and CI77492 yellow iron oxide pigments that are sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

[0320] According to one particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanate triisostearate. As examples of isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT)-treated pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide pigments and the black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWBO-I2® (iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWYO-I2® (iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) and BWRO-I2® (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by Kobo.

[0321] As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

[0322] The term “nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably being produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

[0323] The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments, such as titanium mica covered with an iron oxide, titanium mica covered with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica covered with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also comprise mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or of organic dyestuffs. Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery colour or glint.

[0324] Among the pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect other than a simple conventional colouring effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments.

[0325] For the purposes of the invention, the term “stabilized” means lacking the effect of variability of colour with the angle of observation or else in response to a temperature change. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic glint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, notably interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.Organic pigments

[0326] According to another embodiment of the invention, the pigmentary dyestuff is an organic pigment, which is synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

[0327] The term “organic pigment” means any pigment which corresponds to the definition of Ullmann’s Encyclopedia in the chapter on “Pigments, Organic”. The organic pigment may notably be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds; and mixtures thereof.

[0328] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915 and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenol derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0329] The pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles including a mineral core at least partially covered with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0330] The pigment may also be a lake.

[0331] The term “lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0332] The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0333] Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green 5 (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0334] An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0335] Inorganic photoprotective pigments or UV screening agents

[0336] The pigments used in accordance with the present invention may also be photoprotective pigments. These are metal oxide pigments that form inorganic UV screening agents.

[0337] More preferentially, the inorganic UV screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 µm, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 µm, and even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 µm, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 µm, and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 µm. They are notably described in appendix VI, updated on 22 / 09 / 2021, of the European regulation on cosmetic products number 1223 / 2009, but are not limited to that list.

[0338] They may notably be chosen from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide, or mixtures thereof.

[0339] Such coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773. Commercial pigments that may be mentioned include the products sold by the companies Croda, Tayca and Merck.

[0340] The metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated. The coated pigments are pigments that have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, wax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate. The coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated: with hydrated silica such as the product “MT-100WP” from the company Tayca, with silica and with iron oxide such as the product “SUNVEIL F®” from the company Ikeda, with silica and alumina such as the products “MT-500SA®” and “MT-100SA®” from the company Tayca, “TIOVEIL™ AQ-N” from the company Croda, with alumina such as the products “TTO-55(A)®” from the company Ishihara, with alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products “MT-100TV®, MT100Z®, MT-01®” from the company Tayca, the product “Solaveil™ CT100” from the company Croda and the product “Eusolex T-AVO®” from the company MERCK, with silica, alumina and alginic acid such as the product “MT-100AQ®” from the company Tayca, with alumina and aluminium laurate, with iron oxide and iron stearate, with zinc oxide and zinc stearate, with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products “MTY500SAS®” or “MICROTITANIUM DIOXIDE MT-100SAS®” from the company Tayca, and with silica, alumina and aluminium stearate and treated with a silicone,

[0341] - with silica and treated with a silicone, with alumina and treated with a silicone such as the products “TTO-55(S)®” from the company Ishihara, with triethanolamine, with stearic acid such as the product “TTO-55(C)®” from the company Ishihara, with sodium hexametaphosphate, TiO2 treated with octyltrimethylsilane, TiO2 treated with a polydimethylsiloxane, anatase / rutile TiO2 treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane, TiO2 coated with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate, with alumina sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-200” from Croda, TiO2 coated with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone sold under the trade name “Solaveil™ CT-12W” from Croda, TiO2 coated with lauroyl lysine, and TiO2 coated with C9-C15 fluoro alcohol phosphate and aluminium hydroxide.

[0342] Mention may also be made of TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese.

[0343] Preferably, said doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also include one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, for instance sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol. Mention may be made more particularly of the oily dispersion of TiO2 particles doped with manganese in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: Titanium Dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate (and) Sorbitan Isostearate, for instance the product sold under the trade name Optisol™ OTP-1 by the company Croda.

[0344] The uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by the company Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B®, or by the company Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

[0345] The uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: those sold under the name “Z-COTE®” by the company BASF; and those sold under the name “NanoArc® Zinc Oxide” by the company Nanophase Technologies. The coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example: ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane; Solaveil™ CZ-100 from Croda, dispersed in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid); those sold under the name Daitopersion Zn-60VA® by the company Daito Kasei (dispersions in C9-C12 alkane with a dispersant); those sold under the name SPD-Z5® by the company Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with silicone-grafted acrylic polymer, dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane). The uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by the company Solvay.

[0346] Mention may also be made of mixtures of metal oxides, notably of titanium dioxide and of cerium dioxide, including the equal-weight mixture of titanium dioxide and cerium dioxide coated with silica, and also the mixture of titanium dioxide and zinc dioxide coated with alumina, silica and silicone, or coated with alumina, silica and glycerol.

[0347] According to the invention, coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.

[0348] The inorganic UV screening agents can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1.5% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 25% by weight, and better still from 3% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0349] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one pigmentary dyestuff chosen from inorganic pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof; preferably, the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.FILLERS

[0350] The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

[0351] The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or white and inorganic or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. In general, the fillers included in the compositions according to the invention are not pigmentary dyestuffs.

[0352] The fillers may be inorganic or organic.

[0353] Preferably, they are chosen from natural fillers or fillers of natural origin.

[0354] The term “natural filler” or “natural compound” means a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0355] The term “filler of natural origin” or “compound of natural origin” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. As non-limiting examples of additional chemical or industrial treatments bringing about modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those permitted by the controlling bodies, such as Ecocert (Reference system for biological and ecological cosmetic products, January 2003), or defined in handbooks recognized in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine”, 2005, volume 120, 9: 10.

[0356] The filler particles that can be used in the context of the invention preferably have an average size (d(50) by volume) of less than or equal to 40 µm, preferably of from 1 to 20 µm, more preferentially from 2 to 15 µm.

[0357] The sizes of the particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser of the MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0358] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be lamellar or platelet, globular or spherical in form, in the form of fibres or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0359] More particularly, the expression “lamellar shape” or “platelet shape” means particles of which the shape is characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height (also called thickness); the length and the width being greater than the thickness. More particularly, the ratio of the largest dimension of the lamella / platelet to the height (or thickness) of the lamella / platelet is greater than or equal to 5. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “largest dimension” of the lamellae or platelets is understood to mean the diameter of the sphere in which said lamella or platelet is inscribed. The dimensions of the particles are evaluated by scanning electron microscopy and image analysis.

[0360] For the purposes of the present invention, spherical particles are understood to mean particles having a mean circularity parameter of at least 0.80, preferably of at least 0.82, even more preferentially of at least 0.9. The circularity parameter is defined as the ratio of the circumference of a disc having the same area as the particle to the perimeter of the particle. A value of 1 characterizes perfectly spherical particles.

[0361] The “mean circularity” may be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the “mean circularity” may be an arithmetic mean circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of no less than 2000 silica particles, observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0362] The “circularity” of each silica particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4πS / L2in which C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the silica particle in the image. When the mean circularity approaches 1, the shape of each of the particles becomes more spherical.

[0363] The fillers may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.MINERAL FILLERS

[0364] Examples of mineral fillers include, alone or as mixtures, talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, silica, unmodified clays such as smectites, and preferably unmodified hectorite, diatomaceous earth, kaolin, kaolin and halloysite, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate optionally combined with lauroyl lysine, silica combined with lauroyl lysine, glass microcapsules, borosilicates or ceramics, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG series® sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0365] As regards natural micas, mention may be made, for example, of the products sold under the names Sericite by the company SL Horie Kako; Mearlmica-SV by Sun Chemicals, Sumicos Velvet by Sudarshan Chemical. As regards synthetic micas, the products sold under the names Synafil S 1050 by Eckart or NHS-S-100 by Myoshi Kasei (INCI name: Mica (and) Isostearyl Sebacate (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate (and) Aluminum Hydroxide) may be suitable for use.

[0366] By way of unmodified clay, and more particularly unmodified hectorite, mention may notably be made of the product sold by Elementis under the name Bentone EW or Hydroclay 2000 LO.

[0367] Among the suitable diatomaceous earths, mention may be made of the products of the ImerCare D range from the company Imerys, for example ImerCare03D, ImerCare06D, ImerCare 400D or ImerCare Vistalskin.

[0368] As examples of silica, preferably amorphous silica, preferably in hollow or non-hollow spherical form, use may be made of the following commercial products: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or else SB 700®, preferentially SB 300® from the company Myoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere® range from the company Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, notably Sunsphere H-51® or else Sunsphere 12L®, Sunsphere H-201®, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 8® from the company Sunjin; Spherica P-1500® from the company Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere® from the company Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl® and Satinier® ranges from the company JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13® and Satinier M16 silicas, MSS-500® silicas from the company Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N®, and also Silica Shells® from the company Kobo and also the BA4 silicas from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals.

[0369] As examples of talc, mention may be made, for example, of the products J 68 BC® sold by US Cosmetics; ImerCare Pharma 00T® by Imerys; as examples of kaolin, mention may be made of the products ImerCare 04K®, Supreme® by the company Imerys; the product sold under the trade name Beraca Amazonian White Clay® by the company Beraca ingr. Naturais (Clariant); the product sold under the trade name FJK-16 ® by the company Fuji Fine Chemical.

[0370] With respect to boron nitride, mention may be made of the following commercial products: RonaFlair Boroneige SQ-6® sold by the company Merck, SP2® and SP8® sold by the company Saint Gobain Ceramics, the products Softouch Boron Nitride CC6657®, CC6058®, CC6059® sold by the company Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof.

[0371] As an example of perlite, in unexpanded or expanded form (i.e. Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP), for example obtained according to patent US 5 002 698), mention may be made of the perlite sold by the company Miyoshi Kasei under the trade name Perlite-M SZ12®.

[0372] Among the glass particles, mention may be made of the product P2015SL® sold by Prizmalite (INCI name: Glass Beads). Mention may also be made of hollow Calcium Aluminium Borosilicate (INCI name) microspheres, such as the commercial product Luxsil Cosmetic Microspheres® by the company Potters, Calcium Sodium Borosilicate (INCI name) particles, for example the product sold under the name: Luxsil AL Free 20 by the company Presperse.

[0373] As examples of magnesium oxide, mention may be made of the product Magnesium Oxide Extra Light Low Nickel from the company Dr. Paul Lohmann; of calcium carbonate, mention may be made of the product Omyacare Extra 35-OG from the company Omya, Carbomat® sold by the company Sensient; of barium sulfate, mention may be made of the product LLD-5 BASO4 (PL) from Daito Kasei Kogyo (barium sulfate and lauroyl lysine); of silica coated with lauroyl lysine, such as the product Amilon sold by the company Ikeda.ORGANIC FILLERS

[0374] As examples of organic fillers, mention may be made, alone or as mixtures, of natural micronized waxes, for instance micronized carnauba wax, such as the product Microcare 350 sold by the company Micro Powders; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, for instance the product Amihope LL, sold by the company Ajinomoto; Hordeum vulgare seed flour, for instance the product Amaze Nordic Barley from the company Nouryon, PHA (poly(hydroxyalkanoate)), starch, quinoa extract (INCI name: Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract), for example the product sold by the company TriK under the name NaturePep Quinoa, cellulose, and microcrystalline cellulose.

[0375] Among the starches, mention may be made of native starches such as corn starch (INCI name: Zea Mays Starch), for instance the product sold under the trade name Beauty By Roquette ST005® by Roquette; rice starch (INCI name: Oryza Sativa Starch) such as the commercial product Remytec F-I® by Creachem.

[0376] Mention may also be made of chemically modified starches such as modified starches with the following INCI names: Aluminium Starch Octenylsuccinate, such as the commercial product Dry Flo Plus® sold by the company AkzoNobel; Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate Octenylsuccinate such as the commercial product Structure Zea® sold by the company AkzoNobel; Potato Starch Modified, such as the commercial product Structure Solanace sold by the company AkzoNobel; Sodium Carboxymethyl Starch, such as the product Beauty by Roquette ST118® sold by the company Roquette; Oxidized Starch Acetate, such as the product GF-A390® sold by the company Foshan Gaofeng Starch Technology; composite powders of starch and sodium polyacrylate having the INCI name: Sodium Polyacrylate Starch, such as the commercial products Makimousse 25® and 12® sold by the company Daito Kasei Kogyo.

[0377] Among the particles of cellulose and microcrystalline cellulose that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those sold by the company Daito under the brand name Cellulobeads® such as Cellulobeads USF®, Cellulobeads USF-X®, Cellulobeads D-5®, Cellulobeads D-10®, Cellulobeads D-30®, or else sold under the trade names Vivapur CS 9 FM, Vivapur CS 4 FM from the company JRS.

[0378] Preferably, the filler is chosen from magnesium oxide, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, optionally combined with lauroyl lysine, talc, perlite, silica, diatomaceous earth, kaolin and halloysite, calcium sodium borosilicate, starch, quinoa, cellulose, and combinations thereof.

[0379] Preferably, the optional fillers are present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.4% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, representing 100%.

[0380] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.2% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 9% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight of filler, relative to the total weight of the composition.Oils

[0381] The composition of the invention advantageously comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile oil chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof.

[0382] Advantageously, the oily phase is dispersed in an aqueous phase, with which it forms a direct emulsion (O / W).

[0383] Alternatively, the oily phase may be the continuous phase of an inverse emulsion (W / O). Preferably, the oily phase is a continuous oily phase.

[0384] Said oily phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013x105Pa). It is organic, i.e. comprising at least carbon and hydrogen atoms, and water-immiscible.

[0385] The oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil and optionally ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

[0386] The total concentration of oily phase of the composition of the invention is advantageously within the range from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 98%, preferably from 15% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 80% by weight, preferably from 25% to 70% by weight, preferably from 30% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0387] The term “oil” denotes a water-immiscible compound which is liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×105Pa).

[0388] The term “immiscible” is understood to mean that the mixing of the same amount of water and of oil, after stirring, does not result in a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the abovementioned temperature and pressure conditions. The observation is carried out by eye or by means of a phase-contrast microscope, if necessary, on 100 g of mixture obtained after sufficient stirring with a Rayneri blender to produce a vortex within the mixture (by way of indication, 200 to 1000 rev / min), the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed bottle, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.Volatile oils

[0389] The term “volatile oil” denotes an oil having a vapour pressure of greater than or equal to 1.3 Pa, preferably greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at room temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure, preferably within the range from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, preferably from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, and preferably from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0390] In contrast, the term “non-volatile oil” means an oil with a vapour pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure which is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa.

[0391] By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).

[0392] The volatile oil(s) are preferably present in a content within the range from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 2% to 70%, preferably from 3% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight, preferably from 8% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 10% to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0393] The volatile oil(s) are advantageously chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, volatile silicone oils and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.Volatile hydrocarbon-based oil

[0394] The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” refers to an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. A hydrocarbon-based oil thus consequently does not comprise any silicon or fluorine atoms.

[0395] The term “apolar hydrocarbon-based oil” means a hydrocarbon-based oil comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is preferably non-aromatic (also called a hydrocarbon).

[0396] The term “polar hydrocarbon-based oil” denotes hydrocarbon-based oils mainly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms and one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions, i.e. oils having solely C, H and O.

[0397] As examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the oils listed below, and mixtures thereof:

[0398] - hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and notably C8-C16 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permethyl®,

[0399] - C6-C16 linear alkanes, for example C11-C15 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, for instance hexane, decane, undecane or tridecane, isoparaffins such as, or n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof, and also mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and of n-tridecane (C13), such as Cetiol Ultimate® or Cetiol UT® from BASF; or else alkanes of plant origin, in particular from coconut, such as those sold under the name Vegelight Silk by Biosynthis, or else the mixtures of C13-C15 alkanes sold under the name Neossance Hemisqualane CN by Amyris;

[0400] - volatile, non-aromatic, cyclic C5-C12 alkanes;

[0401] - branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate;

[0402] - short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate or isobutyl acetate, for example sold by Solvay, Dow or Oxea;

[0403] - volatile carbonate hydrocarbon-based oils of structure R’1-O-CO-O-R’2 in which R’1 and R’2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical. Preferably, R’1 and R’2 denote a linear butyl alkyl radical, a pentyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dibutyl carbonate or dipentyl carbonate;

[0404] - volatile ether oils of formula R1OR2 in which R1 and R2 independently denote a linear, branched or cyclic C4-C8 alkyl group, preferably a C4-C8 alkyl group. It may be preferable for R1 and R2 to be identical.

[0405] Linear alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a butyl group and a pentyl group. Branched alkyl groups that may be mentioned include a 1-methylpropyl group, a 2-methylpropyl group, a t-butyl group and a 1,1-dimethylpropyl group. Advantageously, the ether oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether and dicapryl ether, most particularly dicaprylyl ether.

[0406] Use may also be made of other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, such as petroleum distillates, notably those sold under the name Shell Sol T by the company Shell; or else volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE102008012457 from the company Cognis.

[0407] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of hydrocarbon type (thus apolar hydrocarbon-based oils, constituted solely of carbon and hydrogen) containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and notably:

[0408] - branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane or isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, alone or as mixtures,

[0409] - linear alkanes, for example C11-C15 alkanes, alone or as mixtures, and

[0410] - mixtures thereof.

[0411] The volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are notably chosen from C6-C16 alkanes and in particular alkanes such as dodecane, tetradecane, isohexadecane, mixtures of undecane and tridecane, and isoparaffins such as C13-C16 isoparaffin.

[0412] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) are linear or branched hydrocarbon-based oils, which are volatile, notably chosen from undecane, decane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, tetradecane and a mixture thereof, preferably comprising isododecane and / or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

[0413] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the volatile oil(s) of the invention are a mixture of C9-C12 alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes. This mixture is notably known under the INCI name C9-C12 Alkane, CAS 68608-12-8, Vegelight Silk® sold by BioSynthIs.

[0414] According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil(s) are at least partially of plant origin.

[0415] According to a preferred form of the invention, the composition according to the invention contains less than 70% by weight, preferably less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, preferably less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, or even less than 15% by weight, or else less than 10% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0416] According to another preferred form, the composition of the invention contains between 1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 2% and 40% by weight, preferably between 3% and 30% by weight, preferably between 4% and 25% by weight, or even between 5% and 20% by weight of volatile hydrocarbon-based oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0417] According to another particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil in a particular weight ratio [volatile hydrocarbon-based oil] / [compound a)] of between 99 / 1 and 1 / 99, preferably between 95 / 5 and 5 / 95, preferably between 90 / 10 and 10 / 90, preferably between 85 / 15 and 20 / 80, preferably between 80 / 20 and 30 / 70, preferably between 75 / 25 and 40 / 60, preferably between 70 / 30 and 50 / 50.

[0418] Preferably, the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil(s) to the amount of compound a) is in the range preferably from 0.01 to 100, preferably from 0.05 to 10; preferably from 0.1 to 5; preferably from 0.1 to 3; preferably from 0.1 to 1.5; preferably from 0.2 to 1.Volatile silicone oil

[0419] The term “silicone oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and particularly at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0420] The volatile silicone oils may be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.

[0421] Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), or DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning or KF 96 A from Shin-Etsu; alone or as mixtures.

[0422] According to a specific form of the invention, use will be made of a mixture of at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil and of at least one volatile silicone oil, and more particularly of a mixture of isododecane and of dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

[0423] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.2%, preferably less than 0.1%, by weight of silicone oil relative to the total weight of the composition, and ideally the composition of the invention is free of any silicone oil.

[0424] Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the volatile oil(s) are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, notably different from compound a), preferably chosen from volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from: C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane; C6-C16, particularly C11-C15, linear alkanes, alone or as mixtures, such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12), n-tetradecane (C14), notably an undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); alkanes of plant origin, in particular of coconut, or else a mixture of C13-C15 alkanes; and mixtures thereof.

[0425] The composition of the present invention preferably comprises isododecane, linear or branched C9-C12 alkanes, and / or mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); preferably, it comprises isododecane.

[0426] According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition may also comprise one or more non-volatile oils.Non-volatile oils

[0427] The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil whose vapour pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 2.66 Pa and more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure may be measured according to the static method or via the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapour pressure of the oil (OECD 104 standard).

[0428] The non-volatile oil(s) of the invention are of natural or synthetic origin, preferably natural.

[0429] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition C1 or C’1 comprises one or more non-volatile oils.

[0430] Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:Non-volatile silicone oils

[0431] The non-volatile silicone oil may particularly be chosen from the non-volatile silicones having the following INCI names: dimethicone, dimethiconol, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone; and also mixtures thereof.

[0432] These products are notably sold under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane) and Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyl Trimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicones such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d and KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A sold by Shin-Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20 sold by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or as mixtures.Non-volatile fluoro oils

[0433] The term “fluorooil” denotes an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

[0434] The fluoro oil may notably be chosen from fluorinated polyethers, and also from the fluorosilicone oils and the fluoro silicones as described in EP-A-847752.Apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0435] The apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from linear or branched compounds of mineral or synthetic origin, for example:

[0436] - liquid paraffin,

[0437] - squalane, such as the reference Neossance Squalane sold by Amyris,

[0438] - isoeicosane,

[0439] - saturated linear hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof, more particularly of C15-C28, such as the mixtures having, for example, the following INCI names: C15-19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC,

[0440] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, for example products of the Indopol range sold by the company Ineos Oligomers, products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene,

[0441] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyisobutenes, for example non-volatile compounds of the Parleam® range sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats,

[0442] - hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polydecenes, for example non-volatile compounds of the Puresyn® range sold by the company ExxonMobil,

[0443] - decene / butene copolymers and butene / isobutene copolymers,

[0444] - and mixtures thereof.Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0445] They may be chosen from:

[0446] - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols. Advantageously, the C10-C26 alcohols are fatty alcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, notably such as lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof;

[0447] - triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may in particular have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and particularly from C8 to C36, preferably from C18 to C36, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. By way of example, mention may notably be made of heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides;plant oilssuch as wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot kernel oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil; the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter; and also mixtures thereof;

[0448] - linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR’ in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue including from 2 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol, the total number of carbon atoms advantageously being at least 10. As examples of such esters, mention may be made of isoamyl laurate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl heptanoate, cocoyl caprylate / caprate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethylhexanoate) and mixtures thereof, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or 2-octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate or myristyl myristate;

[0449] - hydroxylated esters, such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate;

[0450] - aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, the 2-phenylethyl ester of benzoic acid, and butyloctyl salicylate;

[0451] - linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate;

[0452] - esters of C24-C28 branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols such as triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tris(2-decyltetradecanoate), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyltetradecanoate);

[0453] - the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those with the INCI name Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer or Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer; the polyesters obtained by condensation of fatty acid dimer and of diol dimer, such as dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate;

[0454] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

[0455] - dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0456] - vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer (INCI name);

[0457] - mixtures thereof.

[0458] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from non-volatile silicone oils, non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar hydrocarbon-based oils as defined previously, and mixtures thereof preferably chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, polar hydrocarbon-based oils as defined previously and mixtures thereof.

[0459] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from linear aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR’ in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R’ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, aliphatic hydrocarbon-based esters of alkylene glycol, in particular ethylene glycol or propylene glycol as defined previously, more preferentially chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, cocoyl caprylate / caprate and mixtures thereof, and better still denote isononyl isononanoate.

[0460] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C10-C26 fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, which are preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms as described previously, in particular chosen from oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol such as the reference Eutanol G sold by BASF, and mixtures thereof.

[0461] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from triglycerides constituted of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may in particular have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and notably from C8 to C36, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated as described previously, preferably chosen from heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as the reference Palmester 3585 sold by KLK Oleo.

[0462] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils as described previously, preferably chosen from mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28 hydrocarbons, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0463] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from apolar hydrocarbon-based non-volatile oils chosen from the mixtures having, for example, the following INCI names: C15-C19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 sold by Total, Emogreen L19 sold by SEPPIC, Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, the products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof.

[0464] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) c) comprise or are constituted of at least one non-volatile oil chosen from isoamyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, mixtures having, for example, the following INCI names: C15-C19 Alkane, C18-C21 Alkane, C21-C28 Alkane, for instance the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal, products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, and mixtures thereof, more particularly chosen from products having the INCI name Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, mixtures having the INCI name C15-C19 Alkane, such as Emogreen L15 sold by SEPPIC, and isononyl isononanoate.

[0465] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are constituted of one or more non-volatile polar or apolar hydrocarbon-based oil(s) as defined previously.

[0466] According to one embodiment, the non-volatile oil(s) comprise at least one silicone oil as defined above, preferably chosen from dimethicones, such as the grade Belsil DM 5 Plus Dimethicone sold by Wacker, the reference Dowsil SH 200 C Fluid 10 CST sold by Dow Chemical or the reference Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 1000 CST sold by Dow Chemical, or Phenyl Trimethicone such as the reference Dowsil SH 556 Fluid sold by Dow Chemical.

[0467] Preferably, when the non-volatile oil(s) are a mixture of at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil preferably chosen from apolar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and polar non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils with at least one volatile silicone oil, the amount of silicone oil is less than 30%, preferably less than 20%, preferably less than 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0468] Advantageously, the optional non-volatile oil(s) are present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1% to 60%, preferably from 0.2% to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 40%, preferably from 1% to 35%, more preferentially between 1% and 30%, preferably between 1% and 20%, preferably between 1% and 15%, preferably between 1% and 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0469] With preference, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, with preference in an amount by weight of less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 40%, preferentially less than or equal to 30%, and preferentially less than or equal to 20%, preferentially less than or equal to 15%, and preferentially less than or equal to 10%, and preferentially less than or equal to 8%, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0470] The term “weight ratio”, denoted R, means the ratio of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (VO) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oils (NVO), defined by:

[0471] R = [sum of masses of VO] / [sum of masses of NVO].

[0472] Preferably, R is such that 0 < R ≤ 10 000, more particularly 0.01 < R ≤ 1000; more particularly 0.05 < R ≤ 500; preferably 0.1 < R ≤ 100, preferably 0.2 < R ≤ 50, or even 0.5 < R ≤ 10.Optional silicone(s)

[0473] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, of silicone, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% silicone.

[0474] The term “silicone” means any silicone compound.

[0475] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

[0476] The expression “substantially free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer” is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. Preferably, the composition is totally free of silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer. The expression “silicone other than a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably other than a silicone resin or than a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably other than an MQ resin or than an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer” is understood to mean any silicone compound which is not a film-forming or tackifying silicone polymer, preferably which is not a silicone resin or a silicone acrylate copolymer, preferably which is not an MQ resin or an acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.

[0477] The term “resin” is understood to mean a compound in which the structure is three-dimensional. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0478] The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name “MDTQ”, the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.

[0479] The letter “M” represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1R2R3SiO1 / 2, the silicon atom being bonded to just one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

[0480] The letter “D” means a difunctional unit R1R2SiO2 / 2in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0481] The letter “T” represents a trifunctional unit of formula R1SiO3 / 2.

[0482] In the units M, D and T defined previously, Ri, namely R1, R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon-based radical (notably alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.

[0483] Lastly, the letter “Q” means a tetrafunctional unit SiO4 / 2in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0484] Such resins are described, for example, in the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270, and US 2 676 182, US 3 627 851, US 3 772 247, US 5 248 739 or else US 5 082 706, US 5 319 040, US 5 302 685 and US 4 935 484.

[0485] The silicone resins of MQ type are, for example, the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(R1)3SiO1 / 2]x(SiO4 / 2)y(units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined previously, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group, Trimethyl siloxysilicate or phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate, are distinguished in particular.

[0486] The silicone polymers include siloxanes having an organofunctional group, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, where at least one alkyl radical is other than methyl, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Stearyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone or C26-C28 Alkyl Dimethicone, or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, for example organopolysiloxanes having the name INCI Phenyl Trimethicone, Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone or Dimethylphenyl Dimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a radical containing an organofunction, such as an aminopropyl, aminopropylaminoethyl or aminopropylaminoisobutyl radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name Amodimethicone, or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having a polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol radical, for example organopolysiloxanes having the INCI name PEG-12 Dimethicone, PEG / PPG-25,25 Dimethicone or Cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 Butyl ether Dimethicone.

[0487] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers with a siloxane group and a hydrocarbon group. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone, for instance a backbone chosen from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers and / or acrylic polymers and at least one chain chosen from pendent siloxane groups and polymers comprising a backbone of siloxane groups and at least one pendent hydrocarbon-based chain, for instance a pendent vinyl, methacrylic and / or acrylic group.

[0488] The silicone acrylate copolymer can be selected from polymers derived from apolar silicone copolymers comprising repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one apolar silicone chain. The non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylates / dimethicone copolymers such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, for example, the products sold under the brand names KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-549 (methyl trimethicone (and) acrylates / dimethicone copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate / dimethicone copolymer), KP-561 (acrylates / stearyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), KP-562 (acrylates / behenyl acrylate / dimethicone acrylates copolymer), and mixtures thereof. Additional examples include acrylate / dimethicone copolymers sold by Dow Corning under the brand names FA 4001 CM Silicone Acrylate (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), and FA 4004 ID Silicone Acrylate (isododecane (and) acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer), and mixtures thereof.

[0489] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicone. The term “substantially free of silicone” is understood to mean that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight and preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicone. According to this embodiment, the term “silicone” is understood to mean any silicone compound, including film-forming or tackifying silicone polymers.

[0490] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oils, one or more non-volatile oils, optionally water and optionally one or more organic solvents other than the oils a) and alcohols b) defined according to the invention.

[0491] According to an embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one continuous oily phase having a composition as defined above.

[0492] According to a first embodiment, the composition of the invention is in the form of an oily composition, notably an anhydrous oily composition, such as an oily dispersion or an oily solution, or in stick form.

[0493] According to a second embodiment of the invention, the composition additionally has an aqueous phase.

[0494] Advantageously, the total content of oily phase is within the range from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Optional aqueous phase

[0495] When it is present in the composition of the invention, the aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents.

[0496] A water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or a spring water.

[0497] In the present invention, the term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water of greater than 50% by weight at 20°C and atmospheric pressure).

[0498] The water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

[0499] Mention may in particular be made, among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol, glycerol and dipropylene glycol, C3-C4ketones and C2-C4aldehydes.

[0500] Advantageously, the aqueous phase is preferably present in a total content by weight within the range of from 2% and 95% by weight, preferably from 5% to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 15% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[0501] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additive chosen from those commonly used in the cosmetic field: active agents such as vitamins, active anti-ageing agents; UV screening agents different from the compound b); fillers; lipophilic thickeners; surfactants; fragrances; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.Optional surfactants

[0502] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition also comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic or ionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof.

[0503] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any surfactant.

[0504] The term “surfactant” means a compound which modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. The surfactant(s) are amphiphilic molecules, which have two parts of different polarity, one part being lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) which is apolar, the other part being hydrophilic (miscible or soluble in water) which is polar. The lipophilic part is generally a fatty chain, and the other water-miscible part is polar, and / or protic.

[0505] The term “ionic” means anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic.

[0506] The term “fatty chain” means a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based chain comprising more than 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0507] Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method.

[0508] When they are present, the one or more surfactants represent in total particularly from 0.01% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1% to 10% by weight, better still between 1% and 7% by weight of the composition.Optional lipophilic thickeners

[0509] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, which may or may not have been hydrophobically treated, and from lipophilic clays, alone or as a mixture.Silicas

[0510] The composition according to the invention may thus comprise, as mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably a hydrophobic fumed silica, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.Fumed silica

[0511] Fumed silica which has been hydrophobically surface treated is suitable for use in the invention. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface of the silica. It is notably possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

[0512] The hydrophobic groups may be:

[0513] - trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R812® by Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-530® by the company Cabot.

[0514] - dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA (8th Edition, 2000). They are sold, for example, under the references Aerosil R972® and Aerosil R974® by Degussa, and Cab-O-Sil TS-610® and Cab-O-Sil TS-720® by the company Cabot.Silica aerogels

[0515] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0516] They are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W.,Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.

[0517] The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better still from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0518] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed as the volume-mean diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 µm, preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better still from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0519] The specific surface area per unit mass may be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

[0520] The sizes of the silica aerogel particles may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyser from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is notably described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C.,Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0521] According to one advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better still from 5 to 15 µm.

[0522] The aerogels are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: Silica Silylate).

[0523] The term “hydrophobic silica” is understood to mean any silica of which the surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0524] As regards the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that have been surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US 7 470 725.

[0525] Use will preferably be made of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

[0526] As hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0527] Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201®, Aerogel OGD 201®, Aerogel TLD 203®, Enova Aerogel MT 1100® and Enova Aerogel MT 120.

[0528] Mention may also be made of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.Lipophilic clays

[0529] The term “lipophilic clay” refers to any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0530] A clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates and having a lamellar structure.

[0531] The clays may be natural or synthetic, and they are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, in particular stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.

[0532] They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0533] They are preferably chosen from hectorites and bentonites.

[0534] For example, use may be made of a lipophilic clay chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, notably modified with a C10 to C22 quaternary ammonium chloride, such as:

[0535] - a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride, such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by BYK Additives Inc; or the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by Bentec S.P.A;

[0536] - a bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from Stéarinerie Dubois Fils, Miglyol Gel T® from Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, TIXOGEL® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 from BYK Additives Inc.;

[0537] - a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite), for instance the product sold under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialties.

[0538] - a hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil, such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® Gel DOA V, Bentone® Gel EUG V, Bentone® Gel IHD V, Bentone® Gel ISD V, Bentone® Gel MIO V®, Bentone® Gel PTM V®, Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V or Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS® or Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID® from the company Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS Gel DM1®, NS Gel PTIS® or NS MGel 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0539] As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may also be made of esters of dextrin and of fatty acid, in particular C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, fatty acid, or mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrin and of a C12-C18 and in particular C14-C18 fatty acid.

[0540] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition in concentrations preferably ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Form of the composition

[0541] The composition of the invention may be in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a multiple emulsion, or else an aqueous composition.

[0542] According to a first embodiment of the invention, the composition is a single-phase oily composition.

[0543] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an aqueous phase, in which case it is preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, or of an oil-in-water emulsion, or optionally of a composition with several separate phases (such as a two-phase composition); preferably in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

[0544] The term “water-in-oil emulsion” or W / O emulsion means a composition comprising an oily phase and an aqueous phase which are immiscible; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (described as continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

[0545] Formulation forms with an oily continuous phase are preferred in the case of dispersion of pigments according to the invention, which promotes their homogeneity and thus optimizes the coverage obtained for the film obtained after application of the composition according to the invention (as demonstrated in the examples).

[0546] The composition of the present invention is particularly suitable for producing cosmetic products with fluid textures. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is more particularly in the form of a viscoelastic to viscous liquid, the G* modulus (viscoelastic modulus) of which is between 0.1 and 20 000 Pa, more particularly between 1 and 5000 Pa, or even between 10 and 1000 Pa. The G* modulus is measured with a controlled stress rheometer and the values are taken on the viscoelastic plateau at 25°C.

[0547] The composition of the invention may also be in solid form, such as a stick.Cosmetic applications

[0548] According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition, notably a makeup and / or care composition, for bodily or facial skin, in particular for the face, and / or the lips and / or the eyelashes and / or the hair.

[0549] A composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular bodily or facial skin, in particular for the face. Thus, according to one sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously take the form of a base composition for makeup. A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a liquid product for making up the lips, in particular in the form of a liquid lipstick or else of a gloss.

[0550] A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a solid product for making up the lips, in particular in the form of a lipstick wand.

[0551] According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and notably the face. It can thus be a foundation, an eyeshadow or a blusher.

[0552] It may also be a mascara, an eyeliner, a concealer or corrector, an eyebrow product, a skincare product, a sun protection product, a hygiene product, or else a hair shaping product, or a hair dyeing product; or else a nail varnish product.

[0553] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

[0554] Throughout the patent application, the term “includes a” or “comprises a” should be understood as meaning “including at least one” or “comprising at least one”, unless otherwise specified.

[0555] The examples that follow will allow the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The starting materials are referred to by their chemical or INCI name. The amounts indicated are in % by weight of starting materials relative to the total weight of the composition (% w / w), unless otherwise mentioned.Examples

[0556] Preparation of compositions according to the invention (“Ex”) and comparisons with compositions outside the invention (comparative “Cp”)Preparation of the compositions

[0557] Procedure and materials used for each test:

[0558] Each modified polysaccharide was used in a solvent at room temperature, according to the weight proportions indicated in the following tables, and according to the following protocol: mix the modified polysaccharide with the solvent in a bottle, and then leave the bottle closed with stirring using a roller stirring station for 24 hours at an ambient temperature of 20°C. Depending on the composition, add the optional dyestuff and leave stirring using a roller stirring station for 24 hours at an ambient temperature of 20°C.Modified polysaccharide solubility results

[0559] The solubility is assessed by means of the visual and measured transparency of the solutions 24 hours after the compositions have been prepared, then after 10 days of storage at room temperature and relative humidity.Transparency

[0560] Each sample described above was again shaken using a Vortex-Génie 2TM vibrating shaker (Scientific Industries), vibration force 8 for 1 minute. It was then immediately transferred into a cylindrical glass cell suitable for performing transmission measurements (in %) using Turbiscan Lab (Formulaction). The transmission percentage corresponds to the percentage of incident light that passes through the sample.

[0561] The transmission value was taken over the entire height of the sample and the average value with a standard deviation is indicated in the table below. The higher the transmission, the more “transparent” the sample is, and thus the better the solubility of the modified polysaccharide across the entire volume of the sample.

[0562] The measurements were taken at room temperature (20°C) with analysis programmed at different times after sample preparation.

[0563] Results regarding the transparency of solutions with modified polysaccharides

[0564] INCI nameCp. 1Cp. 2Cp. 3Ex. 4Ex. 5Ex. 6Ethylcellulose555555Ethanol95-47.5---Isododecane-9547.5---Ethyl lactate---95Butyl lactate----95-Isopropylidene glycerol-----95Macroscopic appearanceat T24H, RTVery cloudy, homogeneousInsoluble (polymer powder at the bottom of the flask)Cloudy, homogeneousTransparent, homogeneousTransparent, homogeneousTransparent, homogeneousTransmission T24H, %46.1 ± 0.9-83.6 ± 3.488.7 ± 1.191.2 ± 4.189.9 ± 1.9Transmission T10days, %53.7 ± 0.2-87.9 ± 0.692.5 ± 0.793.4 ± 0.993.0 ± 0.4Transmission in pure solvent, %94.1 ± 0.3-96.0 ± 0.496.0 ± 0.595.9 ± 0.898.1 ± 0.2Ratio [Transmission T24H / Transmission in pure solvent]0.490.870.920.950.92Ratio [Transmission T10days / Transmission in pure solvent]0.570.920.960.970.95

[0565] Examples 4, 5 and 6 show that after 24 hours, ethylcellulose is more soluble in the solvents of the invention, with greater transparency of the solutions than in an isododecane / ethanol solvent mixture and much greater than in ethanol alone. This high transparency is maintained over time (T10days).

[0566] Protocol for spreading the compositions into a film for the homogeneity evaluation and gloss measurements

[0567] The products are spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) that allows both the speed of spreading and also the distance of spreading to be regulated. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the support on which the product is being spread does not move. Contrast cards with a black background and a white background are used (such as byko-chart, Opacity 2A, reference 2810 from BYK-Gardner GmbH). The film is spread spanning both the black area and the white area. For its part, the spreading thickness can be regulated using the square spreader placed on the support so as to spread by levelling when the platform is set in motion. Each edge face of the spreader enables spreading with a different thickness ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. The thickness chosen is 25 µm so as to be close to anin vivofilm thickness. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during spreading. The spreading rate is set at 1” / sec, i.e. 2.54 cm / s. The films are dried for a specified period of time at room temperature and relative humidity (20°C, 50%).Gloss measurement protocol

[0568] The black zone of the contrast card allows visual checking of the evenness of spreading, and also measurement of the gloss of the films.

[0569] The gloss measurements are performed using a glossmeter (Mini Gloss Meter 60°, BykGardner), which is calibrated at 60° prior to the measurements.

[0570] The gloss is measured at different times. The immediate gloss is measured at T0, T5min and T10min after the application at room temperature and humidity (20°C, 50%). For each measurement time, two cards are prepared and three measurements are taken per card. The gloss is thus an average of six measurements at each time.Film gloss results

[0571] INCI nameCp. 1Cp. 3Ex. 4Ex. 5Ex. 6Ethylcellulose55555Ethanol9547.5---Isododecane-47.5Ethyl lactate--95Butyl lactate---95-Isopropylidene glycerol----95Gloss at T0, GU66.3 ± 0.375.9 ± 0.675.1 ± 0.176.0 ± 0.178.3 ± 0.2Gloss at T5min, GU63.4 ± 3.540.0 ± 1.275.9 ± 0.376.3 ± 0.378.2 ± 0.2Gloss at T10min, GU60.9 ± 5.238.8 ± 1.578.8 ± 1.076.3 ± 0.378.1 ± 0.1Gloss at T2H, GU53.5 ± 5.242.8 ± 2.978.8 ± 0.379.2 ± 0.676.8 ± 1.4Homogeneity of the filmInhomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneous

[0572] Examples 4, 5 and 6 show that the films based on the ethyl lactate, butyl lactate and isopropylidene glycerol are very glossy and homogeneous immediately, and still are after 2 hours of drying, unlike the films obtained with ethanol and / or isododecane solvent, which are considerably less glossy. Furthermore, the ethanol-based mixture displays an inhomogeneous film.Evaporation rate evaluation

[0573] The evaporation rate was measured gravimetrically in a ventilated glove box and at controlled temperature and humidity (30°C, relative humidity 50%). A balance, connected to a computer, measures the mass of the sample at each point in time. On the computer, the BalanceLink software records the data generated by the balance every 30 seconds. The evaporation kinetics correspond to the mass lost over time on a given surface for initial applications of formula of about 0.54 ± 0.08 g, or about 63 ± 9 mg / cm2.

[0574] INCI nameCp. 1Cp. 3Ex. 4Ex. 5Ethylcellulose5555Ethanol9547.5--Isododecane-47.5Ethyl lactate--95Butyl lactate---95Evaporated mass at T5min, mg / cm232.7 ± 2.022.0 ± 1.21.08 ± 0.090.06 ± 0.0Evaporated mass at T10min, mg / cm257.4 ± 2.5 (complete evaporation)32.5 ± 1.93.16 ± 0.470.43 ± 0.07Evaporated mass at T20min, mg / cm257.4 ± 2.5 (complete evaporation)43.2 ± 0.47.98 ± 0.831.43 ± 0.14Evaporated mass at T30min, mg / cm257.4 ± 2.5 (complete evaporation)47.0 ± 4.9 (complete evaporation)12.96 ± 1.222.61 ± 0.16

[0575] The examples with ethyl lactate and butyl lactate show that the evaporated mass is systematically lower than those in the examples with ethanol or the mixture of ethanol and isododecane, which leaves more time required for pleasant, high-quality makeup application.

[0576] Protocol for spreading the compositions into a film for the coverage measurements

[0577] The products are spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) that allows both the speed of spreading and also the distance of spreading to be regulated. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the support on which the product is being spread does not move. Contrast cards with a black background and an unvarnished white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). For its part, the spreading thickness can be regulated using the square spreader placed on the support so as to spread by levelling when the platform is set in motion. Each edge face of the spreader enables spreading with a different thickness ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. The thickness chosen is 25 µm so as to be close to anin vivofilm thickness. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during spreading. The spreading rate is set at 1” / sec, i.e. 2.54 cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at 34°C and ambient RH on a hotplate.Coverage measurement protocol

[0578] The measurement is performed by colorimetric measurements on dry film using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contact measurement ensures that there is no light pollution.

[0579] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; Geometry d / 8°.

[0580] Colour measurements on both backgrounds (black background BB and white background WB) allow the coverage of a foundation to be characterized by calculating the “contrast ratio”, (CR%), i.e. YBB / YWB x 100, in which YBB and YWB are the luminance values measured on the black background and white background respectively, the latter being proportionately higher the greater the coverage of the film.

[0581] Note: As regards the production of each Contrast Ratio value, at least two contrast cards are used for each composition, which are evaluated with three CR measurements on each card. Each CR value therefore represents an average of six measurements.

[0582] Results regarding the homogeneity and coverage of the films

[0583] INCI nameCp. 7Cp. 8Ex. 9Ex. 10Ex. 11Ethylcellulose33333Ethanol8743.5---Isododecane-43.5Ethyl lactate--87Butyl lactate---87-Isopropylidene glycerol----87CI 158501010101010Homogeneity of the filmInhomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneousCR, %46.8 ± 7.249.9 ± 2.864.0 ± 1.466.4 ± 2.064.8 ± 0.8

[0584] Examples 9, 10 and 11 show that films based on ethyl lactate, butyl lactate and isopropylidene glycerol, as well as Cp. 8 based on an ethanol / isododecane mixture, are homogeneous immediately and in the course of 2 hours of drying, unlike the ethanol-based mixture, whose film is visually inhomogeneous. The coverage of films based on ethyl lactate, butyl lactate or isopropylidene glycerol (obtained from the compositions according to the invention) is greater than that of films based on ethanol or ethanol / isododecane (obtained from compositions outside the invention).Emulsion tests

[0585] The following mixtures were prepared by dissolving ethylcellulose in the fatty phase mixture (solvent with surfactant) in a Rayneri blender at room temperature at 500 rpm for 10 minutes or until a homogeneous and clear fatty phase was produced. Water was then added drop by drop at 1000 rpm, and stirring was then continued for 10 min.

[0586] The spreads for assessing the homogeneity of the films were prepared according to the “Protocol for spreading compositions into a film for coverage measurements” described above, using previously reshaken emulsions.

[0587] INCI nameCp. 12Ex. 13Ex. 14Ex. 15Ethylcellulose5.565.565.565.56Ethanol40---Isododecane40Ethyl lactate-80Butyl lactate--80-Isopropylidene glycerol---80Polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate3.333.333.333.33Water11.1111.1111.1111.11Emulsion appearance at T0OKOKOKOKEmulsion appearance at T48hStrong phase separationSlight phase separationHomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneity of the filmInhomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneousHomogeneous

[0588] Visual observation:

[0589] Examples 13, 14 and 15 show that emulsions based on ethyl lactate, butyl lactate and isopropylidene glycerol are homogeneous immediately (T0). After two days, these emulsions remain more stable than the emulsion based on an ethanol / isododecane mixture. The solvent-based films of the invention are more homogeneous relative to the ethanol / isododecane-based film, which is visually inhomogeneous.

[0590] Compatibility ofethylcellulosein different ratios ofisododecane / butyl lactate.

[0591] For the purposes of the invention, the term “compatible” means that a homogeneous, clear liquid mixture is obtained when 6% by weight of ethylcellulose (notably sold under the trade name Aqualon EC N7 PHARM by the company Ashland) is mixed with 94% by weight of a mixture consisting of isododecane and butyl lactate (the butyl lactate is sold notably by the company ESUN Industrial Co).Procedure:

[0592] Ethylcellulose is added to the solvent mixture in a pill box equipped with a magnetic bar.

[0593] It is left stirring for 1 hour at room temperature.

[0594] Volatile solvent(s)Compatibility with ethylcellulose(6% by mass)Cp. 16Isododecane alone (94%)IncompatibleEx. 17Isododecane / butyl lactate (60 / 40 ratio = 1.5)CompatibleEx. 18Isododecane / butyl lactate (50 / 50 ratio = 1)CompatibleEx. 19Isododecane / butyl lactate (40 / 60 ratio = 0.67)CompatibleEx. 20Isododecane / butyl lactate (30 / 70 ratio = 0.43)CompatibleEx. 21Isododecane / butyl lactate (10 / 90 ratio = 0.11)CompatibleEx. 22Butyl lactate alone (94%)Compatible

[0595] In the presence of isododecane, an [isododecane / butyl lactate] ratio of less than or equal to 1.5 afforded perfect compatibility with ethylcellulose.

[0596] Compatibility of a mixture comprising a specific polyester andethylcellulosein different percentages and in differentisododecane / butyl lactate ratios.

[0597] IngredientsRatio ARatio BRatio CEthylcellulose(Aqualon EC N7 Pharm - Ashland)3.005.006.00Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (60%) (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride (40%)(Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon)5.0015.003.30Mass % of polyester (active material)3.009.002.00Ethylcellulose / polyester ratio1.000.563.00Volatile solvent(s):Isododecane and / or butyl lactate(ESUN Industrial Co., Ltd)qs 100%qs 100%qs 100%Isododecane aloneCp. 23IncompatibleCp. 24IncompatibleCp. 25IncompatibleRespective mixtures tested for the three [isododecane / butyl lactate] ratios: 50 / 50 ; 40 / 60 ; 30 / 70Ex. 26CompatibleEx. 27CompatibleEx. 28CompatibleButyl lactate aloneEx. 29CompatibleEx. 30CompatibleEx. 31Compatible

[0598] The ratio between the two polymers does not have any influence on the compatibility.

[0599] Isododecane as the sole solvent did not enable the two polymers to be made compatible.

[0600] In the presence of an isododecane / butyl lactate mixture, the ratios tested [isododecane / butyl lactate], preferably less than or equal to 1 (respectively 50 / 50; 40 / 60; 30 / 70), allowed perfect compatibility of the two polymers used in combination.

[0601] Butyl lactate as the sole solvent also enabled perfect compatibility of the two polymers used in combination (ethylcellulose and Solamaze).

[0602] Measurement of the wear resistance and transfer of a composition Ex. 32

[0603] Protocol for measuring the wear resistance and the transfer:Preparation of the test:

[0604] Support: Beige Supplale (2.5 x 5 cm) (sold by Soudotique).

[0605] Spread the composition using a dip applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator) over the entire surface three times in succession to have a sufficient and homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips.

[0606] Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated at 32°C for 45 minutes.

[0607] Optionally, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before stressing.

[0608] 1.Stresses:

[0609] Preparation of a paper tissue for each stress: Fold each paper tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square.

[0610] Dry resistance:

[0611] Rub once with the tissue folded lengthways against one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or the lips.

[0612] Observe the state of the rubbed support and the used surface of the tissue, in particular the remaining colour and the transferred colour. Optionally, take a photo.

[0613] It should be noted that thetransfer resistanceis evaluated with this stress.

[0614] 3.Scoring:

[0615] For each stress, record the result according to the table below:

[0616] ScoreDepositState of the depositDry wear resistance scoreScoreTissueSurface of the tissue in contact with the depositScore for the transfer onto the tissue5Total or partial removal of the deposit from the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places5Very intense colouring - very substantial to total colour transfer4Partial removal resulting in significantly and visibly less intense colouring of the deposit.4Intense colouring - substantial colour transfer3Reduction in colour intensity of the deposit which is noticeable but does not reveal the support3Moderate colouring - moderate colour transfer2No substantial change in the deposit colour2Slight colouring - little colour transfer1No variation in the deposit colour1No colouring or barely visible colouring - very little or no colour transfer

[0617] Composition tested based on modified polysaccharide, crystallizable fatty substance, and compound a) according to the invention:

[0618] INCI nameEx. 32Denat. alcohol13.2Isododecane30.0Isopropylideneglycerol20.0Ethylcellulose5.0Diisostearoylpolyglyceryl-3 dimerdilinoleate15.0Tribehenin1.8Red 77.5Mica2.5Silica5.0Score for dry wear resistance after one passage1Score for transfer onto tissue after one dry tissue passage1

[0619] The composition of the invention Ex. 32 containing at least one compound a) (isopropylidene glycerol) and a modified polysaccharide (ethylcellulose), also comprising a crystallizable fatty substance (tribehenin), shows good dry wear resistance and good transfer resistance.Evaluation of a lipstick composition Ex. 33

[0620] The following example describes a liquid lipstick composition containing an isododecane / butyl lactate solvent mixture.

[0621] IngredientsEx. 33Isododecane32.00Butyl lactate(ESUN Industrial Co., Ltd)33.00Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate (60%) (and) caprylic / capric triglyceride (40%)(Solamaze Natural® - Nouryon)15.00Ethylcellulose(Aqualon EC N7 Pharm - Ashland)5.00Silica(Silica Shells from Kobo)5.00Red 710.00TOTAL (mass %)100.00Mass % of polyester9.00TOTAL polyester + ethylcellulose (%)14.00TOTAL volatile alkanes + polar solvent (%)65.00Isododecane / butyl lactate ratio32 / 33 = 0.97Procedure

[0622] The polyester, ethylcellulose, silica, pigment (Red 7), isododecane and butyl lactate are mixed together in a beaker. The mixture is stirred by rotor-stator stirring for 10 minutes at 800 rpm and then packaged.

[0623] Protocol for evaluating the resistance to dry friction and to friction in the presence of oil

[0624] Certain compositions are evaluated for their friction resistance by means of colorimetric measurements on dry film before and after abrasion, the protocol for which test is detailed below.

[0625] Protocol for spreading the compositions into a film:

[0626] The products are spread on a spreading bench (Elcometer 4340 Applicator) that allows both the speed of spreading and also the distance of spreading to be regulated. The bench is equipped with a suction system connected to a pump so that the support on which the product is being spread does not move. Contrast cards with a black background and an unvarnished white background are used (1 byko-chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831). For its part, the spreading thickness can be regulated using the square spreader placed on the support so as to spread by levelling when the platform is set in motion. Each edge face of the spreader enables spreading with a different thickness ranging from 25 μm to 200 μm. The thickness chosen is 25 µm so as to be close to anin vivofilm thickness. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during spreading. The spreading rate is set at 1” / sec, i.e. 2.54 cm / s. The films are dried for 24 hours at 34°C and ambient RH (50% RH) on a hotplate.

[0627] Friction resistance test protocol:

[0628] The friction resistance test is performed by measuring the colour of the dry film before and after abrasion. Abrasion is performed by attaching a strip of paper tissue (Chicopee Veraclean Polish Plus) to the edge of the spreader at 25 µm. A weight of 960 g is added on top of the spreader during abrasion. The bench speed is set at 2.54 cm / s.

[0629] The colour measurement before and after abrasion is performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contact measurement ensures that there is no light pollution.

[0630] Selected settings: Aperture 8 mm; Uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; Geometry d / 8°.

[0631] Colour measurements on both backgrounds (black background BB and white background WB) allow the coverage of a foundation to be characterized by calculating the “contrast ratio”, (CR%), i.e. YBB / YWB x 100, in which YBB and YWB are the luminance values measured on the black background and white background respectively, the latter being proportionately higher the greater the coverage of the foundation.

[0632] In order to evaluate the friction resistance, the “Contrast Ratio” respectively before rubbing (CR Dry Deposit, %) and after abrasion (CR Rub Dry Deposit, %) are measured. The ratio [CR Rub Dry Deposit / CR Dry Deposit]×100, expressed as a percentage, indicates the film’s friction resistance: the higher this ratio, the more resistant the film is to friction.

[0633] Note: As regards the production of each Contrast Ratio value, at least two contrast cards are used for each composition, which are evaluated with three CR measurements on each card. Each CR value therefore represents an average of six measurements.

[0634] In the olive oil resistance test, the film obtained from the lipstick prototype with composition Ex. 33 above shows good resistance [CR Rub Olive Oil / CR Dry] (%) of 61.7 ± 3.7%.

[0635] The composition obtained has the properties sought by the present invention, namely: stable (2 months at 45°C), affords a glossy film after spreading, good homogeneity and sufficient coverage (CR > 50%), while at the same time succeeding in obtaining both better playtime and good persistence on the skin, and doing so using ingredients that are as natural as possible.

Claims

Cosmetic composition, particularly for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or lips, in particular the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium:a) at least one saturated, linear or branched, cyclic or non-cyclic organic compound, of general formula CnH2nO3in which the index n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9, preferably such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 9; and said compound comprises at least one hydroxyl group and at least one function chosen from ester or ether; andb) at least one modified polysaccharide.Composition according to Claim 1, in which the flash point of said compound a) is between 20°C and 120°C, preferably between 25°C and 115°C, preferably between 30°C and 110°C, preferentially between 35°C and 107°C, preferentially between 40°C and 105°C, or even between 45°C and 100°C.Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the vapour pressure of said compound a) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is in the range from 2.66 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular from 2.66 Pa to 13 000 Pa, particularly from 3 Pa to 2000 Pa, or even from 3 Pa to 1000 Pa, and more particularly from 4 Pa to 500 Pa.Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, in which said compound a) is chosen from those including a hydroxyl group and two ether functions, preferably comprising at least one cyclic ether function, preferably comprising a cyclic ether containing two ether functions, such as a dioxane ring or a dioxolane ring; preferably, said compound a) comprises a hydroxyl group and a 1,3-dioxolane ring, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the index n of compound a) is an integer such that 6 ≤ n ≤ 8; preferably said compound a) is chosen from 2,2-dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane (or isopropylidene glycerol), 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, (4S)-(+)-4-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, in which said compound a) is chosen from hydroxycarboxylic esters in which the index n is an integer such that 5 ≤ n ≤ 9, preferably such that 7 ≤ n ≤ 9; preferably, said compound a) is chosen from ethyl lactate, propyl lactate, butyl glycolate, butyl lactate, isobutyl lactate, methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate, tert-butyl 3-hydroxypropionate, amyl lactate, isoamyl lactate, hexyl lactate, and mixtures thereof.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which compound a) is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, preferably from 1% to 95% by weight, preferably from 1% to 90%, preferably from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 70%, preferably from 1.5% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 25% by weight, or even from 5% to 20%, and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of compound a), relative to the total weight of the composition, representing 100%.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the polysaccharide(s) b) are chosen from cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric polysaccharides, preferably nonionic polysaccharides, modified by the presence of at least one cyclic or non-cyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic hydrocarbon-based aliphatic chain, comprising 2 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more atoms or groups a), f), g), h), i), j), l) as defined hereinbelow and / or p) (di)alkylamino and / or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms or groups a’) to c’) as defined hereinbelow: i) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkyl, ii) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkenyl, iii) linear or branched (C5-C28)alkynyl; preferably, the hydrocarbon-based group is linear; a) halogens such as chlorine or bromine, f) (thio)carboxamide –C(O)-N(Ra)2 or –C(S)-N(Ra)2, g) cyano, h) iso(thio)cyanate, i) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl or furyl, and j) (hetero)cycloalkyl such as anhydride, epoxide or dithiolane, l) R-X with R representing a group chosen from α) cycloalkyl such as cyclohexyl, β) heterocycloalkyl such as sugar, preferably monosaccharide such as glucose, γ) (hetero)aryl such as phenyl, δ) cosmetic active agent, m) thiosulfate and X representing a’) O, S, N(Ra) or Si(Rb)(Rc), b’) S(O)r, or (thio)carbonyl, c’) or combinations of a’) with b’) such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide, Ra representing a hydrogen atom, or a (C1-C4)alkyl or aryl(C1-C4)alkyl group such as benzyl; preferably, Ra represents a hydrogen atom; Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a (C1-C4)alkyl or (C1-C4)alkoxy group, particularly a single substituent; and / or a’) heteroatoms such as O, S, N(Ra), and Si(Rb)(Rc), b’) S(O)r, (thio)carbonyl, c’) or combinations of a’) with b’) such as (thio)ester, (thio)amide, (thio)urea, sulfonamide with r equal to 1 or 2, Ra being as defined previously; preferably, Ra represents a hydrogen atom, Rb and Rc being as defined previously; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is chosen from modified polysaccharides derived from gum arabic; ghatti gum; karaya gum; tragacanth gum; agar; alginates; carrageenans and furcellerans; guar gum; locust bean gum; fenugreek gum; tamarind gum; konjac gum; xanthan gum or dehydroxanthan gum; gellan gum; scleroglucan gum; cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, inulin; and pectin; preferably chosen from cellulose; starch; dextrin, pullulan, inulin, more preferentially cellulose.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the modified polysaccharide is chosen from: alkylpolysaccharides whose alkyl radical comprises between 2 and 30, preferably between 2 and 10, more preferentially between 2 and 6 carbon atoms; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is a cellulose or guar derivative; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is an alkylcellulose whose linear or branched alkyl residue comprises between 1 and 10 carbon atoms, in particular between 2 and 6 carbon atoms, preferably between 2 and 3 carbon atoms, or an alkyl guar; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is chosen from ethylcellulose, propylcellulose and ethyl guar, preferably ethylcellulose; polysaccharide esters; and mixtures thereof; preferably, the modified polysaccharide is chosen from dextrin palmitate, pullulan myristoyl, ethylcellulose and ethyl guar; preferably ethylcellulose.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the modified polysaccharide(s) are present in the composition in an amount in the range from 0.05% to 25% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 0.2% to 15% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 12%, preferably between 0.5% and 10%, preferably from 0.7% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and / orthe weight ratio between compound(s) a) and modified polysaccharide(s) b) present in the composition ranges from 0.05 to 200, more preferentially from 0.1 to 100, more preferentially from 0.2 to 50, better still from 0.5 to 20, and preferably from 0.5 to 10.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one crystallizable fatty substance b’’) chosen from crystallizable fatty substances of animal or plant origin, esters of glycerol and of C12-C24fatty acids optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group and copolymers of sorbitol and of a C6-C16fatty diacid esterified with C12-C24fatty acids, preferably from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, candelilla wax, sunflower wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, mixtures of mono-, di- and triesters obtained from glycerol and behenic acid and copolymers of sorbitol and of sebacic acid esterified with behenic acid, preferentially chosen from the triester of glycerol and behenic acid, the triester of glycerol and hydroxystearic acid, and sunflower wax.Composition according to Claim 10, in which the crystallizable fatty substance is present in a content of between 0.01% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferentially between 0.2% and 12% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 10% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 9% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 8% by weight, advantageously between 1% and 7% by weight, preferentially between 1% and 6% by weight, preferentially between 1.5% and 5%, preferably between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one polyester c) which is the product of reaction of components (i), (ii) and (iii) below: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, (ii) at least one dimer acid, and (iii) at least one fatty monoacid containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, components (i), (ii) and (iii) being reacted in a mole ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty monoacid; and / or preferably said polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product; and / or preferably the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reagents into a reaction container and then inducing a completely statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to the polyglycerol-3.Composition according to Claim 12, characterized in that the polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; and preferably triglycerol is the majority component in said mixture; preferably, the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture which is made up of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; preferably, the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture which is made up of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight, of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture; preferably, the polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture.Composition according to either of Claims 12 and 13, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential product of reaction of the following components:(i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in the form of a mixture;(ii) at least one hydrogenated dimer acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and from 5% to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and(iii) isostearic acid; preferably, the polyester is a product of reaction of polyglycerol-3, hydrogenated C36dimer acid and isostearic acid in a mole ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 14, characterized in that the polyester is in an oily solution comprising:a) a polyester obtained by reaction:(i) of polyglycerol-3; and(ii) of a hydrogenated C36 dimer acid; and(iii) of isostearic acid; the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a mole ratio of 1 mol of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mol of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 mol of fatty acids; andb) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture more particularly having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride; preferably the oily solution contains the polyester in a concentration of from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferentially from 30% to 90% by weight, more particularly from 50% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture; preferably, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and isostearic acid in a mole ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.Composition according to any one of Claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the content of polyester, expressed as active polyester material, ranges from 0.2% to 30%, preferably from 0.3% to 25%, preferably from 0.5% to 22%, preferably from 1% to 20%, or even from 1.5% to 20%, or from 2% to 18%, preferably from 2.5% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 3% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one compound chosen from d) pigmentary dyestuffs; preferably, compound d) comprises: at least one mineral pigment chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder, nacreous pigments, monochromatic pigments, and mixtures thereof; and / or comprising at least one organic pigment chosen from the following compounds: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone; and mixtures thereof; preferably, compound d) is chosen from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, zinc or chromium oxides and mixtures thereof; preferably, the pigment is chosen from titanium dioxide, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.Composition according to Claim 17, in which the pigment(s) are uncoated and / or coated, preferably coated with at least one compound chosen from: metal soaps; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to either of Claims 17 and 18, in which the pigmentary dyestuff is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1.5% to 30% by weight, or even from 2% to 25% and better still from 3% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably in a content of less than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably less than 40% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 30% by weight, advantageously less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, or even less than or equal to 10%, or even less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, it is less than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 4%, preferably less than or equal to 3%, preferably less than or equal to 2%, preferably less than or equal to 1%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to Claim 20, in which the content of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is such that the weight ratio of the total amount of compound a) to the total amount of linear or branched C2-C4 monoalcohol(s) is greater than 1.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, where preferably the weight ratio denoted R, of the sum of the masses of volatile oil(s) (VO) to the sum of the masses of non-volatile oil(s) (NVO), defined by: R = [sum of the masses of VO] / [sum of the masses of NVO], is such that 0 < R ≤ 10 000, more particularly 0.01 < R ≤ 1000, more particularly 0.05 < R ≤ 500, preferably 0.1 < R ≤ 100, preferably 0.2 < R ≤ 50, or even 0.5 < R ≤ 10.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon-based oil different from compound a), preferably chosen from volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from: C8-C16 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane, or isohexadecane; C6-C16, notably C11-C15, linear alkanes, alone or as mixtures, such as hexane, decane, undecane, tridecane, n-dodecane (C12), n-tetradecane (C14), notably an undecane-tridecane mixture, mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13); alkanes of plant origin, in particular of coconut, or else a mixture of C13-C15 alkanes; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to Claim 23, characterized in that the weight ratio of the amount of volatile oil(s) to the amount of compound a) is in the range preferably from 0.01 to 100, preferably from 0.05 to 10; preferably from 0.1 to 5; preferably from 0.1 to 3; preferably from 0.1 to 1.5; preferably from 0.2 to 1.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 10% by weight of silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of silicone oil, preferably silicone; preferably, the composition is completely silicone-free.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, at a content within the range from 5% to 100%, preferably from 10% to 98% by weight, preferably from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it includes an aqueous phase, in a content within the range from 2% to 95% by weight, preferably from 5% to 90% by weight, preferably from 10% to 80% by weight, more particularly from 15% to 70% by weight, preferably from 20% to 60% by weight, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an anhydrous composition, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a multiple emulsion, or else an aqueous composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, also comprising at least one additive chosen from: active agents such as vitamins and anti-ageing active agents; UV-screening agents different from compound d); fillers; lipophilic thickeners; surfactants; fragrances; preserving agents; and mixtures thereof.Process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or skin integuments, characterized in that it comprises at least the application to the skin and / or skin integuments of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 29.

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