Method for manufacturing a timepiece or jewellery component and component obtained by such a method
The described manufacturing process addresses the issue of limited wear resistance in watch and jewelry components by embedding a secondary material within a primary material, resulting in durable and restorable decorative patterns.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- WO · WO
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- DE LA MFG DHORLOGERIE AUDEMARS PIGUET & CIE
- Filing Date
- 2025-12-09
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-25
AI Technical Summary
Existing methods for modifying the surface of watch and jewelry components result in limited wear resistance, making exterior parts vulnerable to abrasion and impact, and restoration difficult.
A manufacturing process involving embedding a secondary material partially within a primary material to create decorative or functional patterns, using additive manufacturing to produce a preform, followed by sintering and material removal to reveal the pattern, enhancing wear resistance.
The process produces components with improved wear resistance and durability, allowing for decorative and functional patterns that can be restored without compromising the component's integrity.
Smart Images
Figure IB2025062580_25062026_PF_FP_ABST
Abstract
Description
A method for manufacturing a watch or jewelry component and a component obtained by such a method technical field
[0001] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a finished or semi-finished watch component, in particular a watch case or bezel, comprising a primary material and at least one other secondary material different from the primary material. The secondary material is partially embedded in the primary material so as to be located on the surface of the watch component. The secondary material may have a decorative and / or functional character, for example, for authentication purposes. The method according to the present invention is also suitable for manufacturing a finished or semi-finished jewelry component, in particular a piece of jewelry. The present invention also relates to a watch or jewelry component obtained by such a method, as well as a timepiece comprising one or more watch components obtained according to this method. State of the art
[0002] In the watchmaking and jewelry industries, creating areas of a different material on a component made of a predominant material is often done only on the surface or the "extreme surface" of the component, meaning with a depth limited to a few microns. This means the modification is superficial and the material in these areas does not penetrate deeply into the material. Furthermore, these modifications are performed on components whose final shape has already been achieved. This makes the component's surface structure more vulnerable, particularly to abrasion or impacts, which can lead to premature wear. Moreover, restoring the piece, which requires replacing the surface layer, is difficult or even impossible.
[0003] Current processes for modifying the surface of a part typically involve an engraving operation followed by filling the engraving with materials such as lacquer, enamel, paint, or a viscous paste. They also include the application of AUDEMA-38-PCT Designs can be created using techniques such as painting, pad printing, or decals, as well as laser surface coloring. For certain metals like aluminum or titanium, specific treatments such as anodizing or anodizing are used. ALD, PVD, and CVD coatings followed by localized dissolution also allow for surface design. Modifications made to parts by these processes, which primarily affect the surface, have the disadvantage of offering limited resistance to wear, particularly scratches, which can locally remove the entire thickness of the coating, exposing the underlying material.
[0004] Due to this limited durability, these techniques are generally applied to internal components, such as movement parts or dials, which are better protected from wear. Conversely, exterior parts, such as a strap, bezel, case, case back, or crown, which are more exposed to external stresses, cannot benefit from these processes, as this could compromise their long-term strength and aesthetics.
[0005] CH719107A1 discloses a process for manufacturing watch or jewelry components that involves depositing at least two different metal powders according to predetermined patterns, then sintering them and applying a finish to reveal logos, text, or decorations integrated into the material through contrast of material and color. This process relies either on distributing different powders in a sintering mold, a delicate operation that can lead to defects when depositing very small quantities intended to form thin portions of the pattern, or on additive manufacturing of the different powders requiring extremely precise control of the deposition and sintering conditions, otherwise the sharpness or fidelity of the pattern may be compromised. Brief summary of the invention
[0006] One aim of the present invention is to propose an alternative method for manufacturing a finished or semi-finished watch or jewelry component, which is free, at least in part, from the aforementioned limitations. AUDEMA-38-PCT
[0007] More specifically, one aim of the present invention is to propose a method for manufacturing a watch or jewelry component having on its surface one or more patterns possessing improved wear resistance.
[0008] Another objective of the present invention is to propose a method for manufacturing a watch component, in particular a plate or a bridge, having areas having at least one predominant functional property compared to the properties of the main material of the watch component.
[0009] At least one of these goals is achieved by a manufacturing process for a finished or semi-finished watch or jewelry component, comprising a main material and a different secondary material partially embedded in the main material in order to present on the surface of said component a decorative, functional or both pattern.The process comprises the following steps: i) placing a powder of the primary material and at least one three-dimensional element made from a powder of the secondary material into a mold, the three-dimensional element being completely embedded within the powder of the primary material; ii) performing a sintering operation on the material contained in the mold without melting either the primary or secondary material to obtain a sintered body; and iii) performing at least one material removal operation on the sintered body so as to reveal on the surface of the component the pattern of the three-dimensional element made of the secondary material, the remainder of said three-dimensional element being integrated into the mass of said component made of the primary material. Advantageously, said at least one three-dimensional element is in the form of a preform (P) at step i). This preform is produced beforehand by another manufacturing process.
[0010] According to one embodiment, the material removal operation is carried out to obtain the final dimensions of the component.
[0011] According to one embodiment, said pattern follows the profile of the surrounding surface of said component made of the main material. AUDEMA-38-PCT
[0012] According to one embodiment, said motif represents a geometric figure, a logo or any other controlled shape.
[0013] According to one embodiment, said at least one preform is produced by an additive manufacturing process.
[0014] In one embodiment, the additive manufacturing process is a filament-based 3D printing process (Fused Deposition Modeling). The filament comprises the secondary material powder and an organic binder including at least one thermoplastic compound. Alternatively, the 3D printing process is carried out by stereolithography (SLA).
[0015] According to one embodiment, a debinding step, at least partial, of the preform (P) is carried out before step i).
[0016] According to one embodiment, step i) consists of placing in the mold a first layer of the powder of the main material with a thickness of between 0.5 and 10mm, preferably between 1 and 4mm, then placing said at least one preform on the first layer before placing a second layer of the powder of the main material with a thickness of between 0.5 and 10mm, preferably between 1 and 5mm, in order to surround and completely cover the preform with the main material.
[0017] According to one embodiment, the secondary material has a visual appearance that blends in with that of the main material under normal lighting conditions and a visual appearance distinct from that of the main material in the dark or under ultraviolet radiation.
[0018] According to one embodiment, the powder of the secondary material is a mixture of at least one metal and at least one luminescent material.
[0019] In one embodiment, the powders of the main and secondary material each comprise at least one material or a AUDEMA-38-PCT combination of materials including ceramic materials and metallic materials, preferably precious such as those containing gold.
[0020] According to one embodiment, the powders are chosen so that the color difference between the main material and the secondary material is greater than a Delta E of 1 according to the CIEDE2000 standard, preferably greater than a Delta E of 2 or 3, in order to have a clear and perceptible visual distinction between the main and secondary materials.
[0021] In one embodiment, the preform is a structure comprising elements spaced apart from one another. The secondary material possesses at least one predominant functional property compared to the properties of the primary material. For example, the secondary material has a Young's modulus lower than that of the primary material.
[0022] Another aspect of the invention relates to a finished or semi-finished watch or jewelry component obtained by the process according to one of the aforementioned embodiments.
[0023] Another aspect of the invention relates to a finished or semi-finished watch component, in particular a mainplate or bridge, obtained by a process in which the secondary material possesses at least one predominant functional property compared to the properties of the primary material, for example, a Young's modulus lower than that of the primary material. The secondary material comprises areas of controlled geometry, preferably configured for the attachment of pivots.
[0024] Another aspect of the invention relates to a timepiece comprising one or more timepiece components obtained by the process according to one of the aforementioned embodiments. Brief description of the figures
[0025] Examples of implementations of the invention are shown in the description illustrated by the accompanying figures, in which: AUDEMA-38-PCT - Figure 1 schematically illustrates the main stages of the manufacturing process for a watch case, according to one embodiment, - Figure 2 schematically illustrates the main stages of the manufacturing process for a plate or a bridge, according to another form of embodiment. Examples of embodiments of the invention
[0026] The following description focuses on a manufacturing process for a watch component, in particular a case component, such as a case middle, bezel, case back, oscillating weight, or crown, in various embodiments, comprising a primary material and a secondary material of controlled shape, embedded in the primary material and partially localized, notably on the surface of the watch component. The secondary material has one or more distinctive characteristics or properties compared to the primary material, particularly in terms of visual appearance and / or functional properties.
[0027] For example, the primary and secondary materials could be, for instance, 5N rose gold for the primary material (M1) and white gold for the secondary material, allowing for the creation of controlled shapes on the surface of the watch component. The visual appearance of these controlled shapes thus differs from the predominant visual appearance of the primary material of the watch component.
[0028] Because the secondary material is embedded within the primary material, the patterns created by the secondary material are therefore not, or only minimally, affected by wear on the part. Advantageously, an operation such as surface polishing can be carried out later, even repeatedly, if it becomes necessary, for example, to restore the original appearance of a part that has become somewhat worn over time. AUDEMA-38-PCT
[0029] The main material can be a titanium alloy while the secondary material can be a ceramic exhibiting luminescence, for example under UV, giving the watch component different optical and physical properties.
[0030] Furthermore, the final component obtained by this process may exhibit different shades, whether on the visible surface pattern, on the component body that encloses it, or on both. Therefore, within the context of this application, the terms "primary material" and "secondary material" refer respectively to the materials constituting the body and the pattern. These are not necessarily homogeneous and each may be made from several powders of different types, including ceramic powders, metal alloy powders, or combinations thereof.
[0031] One of the distinctive features of this process is the creation of a preform of a three-dimensional motif from a powder of the secondary material. The nature of this secondary material is chosen according to the desired purpose, which may be decorative and / or functional, for example, for authentication purposes, as will be discussed later. The preform of the motif is embedded in a powder of the primary material. The powder is then pre-compacted, for example, using a press, to form a manipulable sample of any desired shape.
[0032] This feature optimizes manufacturing logistics by allowing independent and advance production of three-dimensional patterns, while eliminating the need for localized secondary powder deposition in very small cavities such as those used in the process described in CH719107A1. In practice, filling such cavities presents a risk of defects, due in particular to irregular powder accumulations or residual voids. The present process eliminates these constraints.
[0033] Advantageously, the preform of the three-dimensional pattern is produced by an additive manufacturing process, preferably by filament printing, more commonly known as fused deposition modeling. The filament is typically AUDEMA-38-PCT consisting of the powder of the secondary material and an organic binder comprising at least one thermoplastic compound as described in publication WO20211859. Alternatively, the preform of the three-dimensional pattern is produced by another additive manufacturing process, in particular by SLS (Selective Laser Sintering), by SLM (Selective Laser Melting) or by stereolithography.
[0034] Additive manufacturing in the context of this application aims to produce a preform of a three-dimensional element or pattern in the form of any geometric figure, logo or any other controlled shape made of secondary material.
[0035] A preform with a controlled shape can, however, be obtained by other manufacturing processes depending on the composition of the secondary material, notably by binder jetting, cold isostatic pressing (CIP), or injection molding. A preform can also be produced by conventional machining of a pre-sintered material. According to this approach, a rough preform is first obtained by performing a pre-sintering step that does not yet bring the material to its final density or hardness. This results in a pre-sintered body whose shape corresponds to that of the mold used and which is made from the powder of the secondary material. This pre-sintered body is hard enough to withstand the mechanical stresses of machining, while remaining soft enough to be machined more easily than a fully sintered part.
[0036] The additive manufacturing process, or other manufacturing processes such as those mentioned above, must produce a preform of the three-dimensional pattern that is, on the one hand, sufficiently robust to be handled, and on the other hand, suitable for undergoing a sintering operation, particularly of the SPS type, according to the process described below, in any of the embodiments. This makes it possible to obtain a component, for example, in a watch, whose secondary material, partially embedded in the primary material and partly localized, notably on the surface, possesses the desired hardness. AUDEMA-38-PCT
[0037] Advantageously, the SPS sintering operation makes it possible to obtain a sintered part with a density between 98 and 100%, preferably between 99% and 99.99%, preserving the fineness of the granularity of the powders, which has the advantage of optimizing the mechanical properties, in particular the hardness and toughness compared to a conventional sintering cycle.
[0038] According to one embodiment and with reference to Figure 1, the manufacturing process is adapted for the manufacture of, in particular, a watch case 100 among other components for the casing of a timepiece.
[0039] The process comprises a first step S1 consisting of producing, preferably by additive manufacturing as described above, one or more preforms P of the three-dimensional element from a powder Mp2 of the secondary material M2 that partially constitutes the case 100. As mentioned previously, the three-dimensional element is typically a logo, a geometric shape, or any other controlled, i.e., non-random, shape. For a watch component, particularly a case 100, incorporating several preforms P, these may be identical or differ from one another in their composition and respective shape.
[0040] The process includes a second step S2 consisting of depositing a first layer Ci of a powder Mp1 of the main material M1, which constitutes the predominant component of the watchmaking element, into the bottom of a mold or die M, typically made of graphite. The size of the mold M depends on the type of watchmaking element to be manufactured and is typically around 80 mm in diameter for the manufacture of a watch case, according to the present embodiment, or around 50 mm in diameter for the manufacture of a watch bezel.
[0041] The first layer Ci is arranged so that, after pre-compaction, its thickness is between 0.5 and 10 mm, and preferably between 1 and 2 mm. The powder Mp1 is typically a metal alloy, for example, grade 5 titanium Ta6V. The pre-compaction step aims to transform the loose powder into a solid form and AUDEMA-38-PCT consistent, called green piece, while retaining sufficient porosity to allow sintering.
[0042] An organic binder can be added to the powder before this step to improve particle cohesion for conventional sintering. For SPS sintering, however, a binder is not necessary, as the rapid heating combined with simultaneous pressure applied in the SPS process promotes direct particle densification.
[0043] The powder Mp2 used previously for the manufacture of one or more preforms P is of a different nature from the powder Mp1 of the main material M1. The powder Mp2 may for example be composed of a mixture of a first powder based on metal and a second powder based on a colored material or a luminescent material, preferably reacting to UV, either by fluorescence or by phosphorescence to allow for example the authentication of the watch component.
[0044] In one embodiment, the powder Mp1 of the main material M1 of the watch component 100, taken as an example in the accompanying figures, can be used as the first powder in the mixture constituting the powder Mp2 of the secondary material M2, while the colored material of this mixture can, for example, be a ceramic or a strontium aluminosilicate doped with europium chosen for its fluorescent properties, primarily in the red and blue regions of the light spectrum. According to this embodiment, the proportion of the colored material in this mixture is preferably between 5% and 99% by volume of the powder Mp1 of the main material, with a preference for a content between 75% and 95%.
[0045] Depending on the composition of the preform or each of the preforms P obtained in step S1, this step may be followed by at least a partial chemical debinding step, for example by immersing the preform or each of the preforms P produced in step S1 in acetone. This step may also be followed by an optional thermal debinding step under a controlled atmosphere to prevent oxidation of the metallic material(s). The objective of these two steps is to reduce as much AUDEMA-38-PCT The binder content should be reduced as much as possible while maintaining sufficient mechanical strength in the preform to allow for gentle handling. The residual binder content can be between 0 and 10% by mass, preferably between 0 and 5%.
[0046] According to a third step S3 of the process, several preforms P of an identical or different three-dimensional pattern are arranged in the mold M on the first pre-compacted layer Ci. The position of each preform relative to the others in the mold M is dictated by the desired visual appearance of the final watch component 100.
[0047] A second layer C2 of powder Mp1 of the main material is then placed in the mold M, according to step S4, so that the preforms P are completely embedded in the powder Mp1. The mold is thus filled with the powder Mp1 to surround the preforms P and completely cover them with an additional thickness ranging from 0.5 to 10 mm, preferably from 2 to 5 mm after pre-compaction of the powder.
[0048] Even if the preform(s) will be revealed later during a material removal operation after sintering, completely concealing them under such a thick layer of powder greatly simplifies the manufacturing process of the watch or jewelry component. This is particularly true because it eliminates the constraints related to material removal and the precision of preform positioning, especially regarding the surface on which they must be revealed within the component. These constraints can typically become very difficult to control if, for example, the preforms are required to perfectly conform to the outer surface of the component in its final form.
[0049] A sintering cycle, preferably of the SPS type, is then carried out, according to step S5. This sintering cycle typically includes the following parameters for a ceramic material to manufacture a 100 case: - temperature rise profile between 20°C / min and 200°C / min, preferably between 20°C / min and 150°C / min, up to a target temperature AUDEMA-38-PCT typically between 600°C and 1550°C, preferably between 900°C and 1380°C; - maintaining the target temperature between 1 and 20 minutes, preferably between 1 and 10 minutes; - temperature descent profile located between 25°C and 100 °C / min after the sintering phase; - sintering pressure between 0.5 MPa and 100 MPa, preferably between 10 MPa and 90 MPa; - currents between 2,000 and 20,000 Amperes, preferably between 3,000 and 4,000 Amperes; - voltage between 2 and 10 Volts, preferably between 5 and 10 Volts.
[0050] The sintered material body is then removed from the mold M and at least one material removal operation, according to step S6, is carried out on the sintered body to reveal on the surface of the component a part of the three-dimensional elements forming the MT patterns made up of the secondary material M2 while the rest of these elements remain integrated into the mass of the watch component 100 made up, at least predominantly, of the main material M1.
[0051] This at least one material removal operation is typically a machining operation in the broadest sense of the term, meaning that it could be performed not only by a machine tool but could also be carried out by abrasion, waterjet cutting, laser cutting, or any other means that exposes a portion of the three-dimensional element made of the secondary material on the surface of the component. In one embodiment, the aforementioned material removal operation(s) also aim to obtain at least one of the final dimensions of the watch or jewelry component.
[0052] For example, during step S6, the sintered material body can first be cut by waterjet or laser to obtain a roughing similar to the shape of the part at the final dimensions, followed by a machining operation, typically milling, to obtain the exact dimensions of the watch component 100. A decoration operation can then be carried out on the watch component. This operation consists of applying decoration to one or more areas of the AUDEMA-38-PCT A watch component, 100, is decorated on the surface of the part, particularly on the case side, using a mechanical process. This mechanical process may include polishing, sandblasting, satin finishing (straight, circular, or spiral), microblasting, guilloché work, perlage, Côtes de Genève finishing, or hand engraving.
[0053] The resulting watch component 100 consists of a primary material, for example titanium, which can reveal the MT patterns of the secondary material on the component's surface under UV light or in the dark. The watch component obtained using the aforementioned process is particularly well-suited for a watch case 100 but could equally well be used to produce other decorative components such as a bezel or a watch case back.
[0054] Different powder compositions Mp1, Mp2 can be used for the manufacture of a watch component 100 according to a process similar to that just described so that this component comprises a main material M1 and a secondary material M2 of different nature.
[0055] As an example, and still referring to Figure 1, the powders Mp1 and Mp2 of the primary material M1 and secondary material M2 can each be a ceramic powder, for example, of the ZTA type. These two ceramic powders Mp1 and Mp2 can be chosen so that the color difference between the primary material M1 and the secondary material M2, after the S5 sintering operation, is greater than a Delta E of 1 according to the CIEDE2000 standard, preferably greater than a Delta E of 2 or 3, in order to have a clear and perceptible visual distinction between the primary and secondary materials M1 and M2 of the watch component 100.
[0056] For the manufacture of a watch bezel using the two aforementioned ceramic powders Mp1 and Mp2, a first layer Ci of ceramic powder Mp1 is deposited, according to step S2, in the bottom of a mold M with a diameter of approximately 50 mm until a thickness of between 0.5 and 10 mm is obtained, preferably between 1 and 4 mm, after being pre-compacted. According to step S4, a second layer C2 of ceramic powder Mp1 is deposited in a manner AUDEMA-38-PCT to surround the preforms until they are completely covered, with an additional thickness in a range of 0.5 to 10mm, preferably 1 to 5mm after pre-compaction of the powder.
[0057] The SPS sintering cycle performed in step S5 includes, for the manufacture of a telescope, the following parameters in particular: - temperature rise profile located between 20°C / min and 200°C / min, preferably between 20°C / min and 150°C / min, up to a target temperature typically between 600°C and 550°C, preferably between 200°C and 550°C; - maintaining the target temperature between 1 and 20 min, preferably between 2 and 15 min; - temperature descent profile located between 25°C and 100 °C / min after the sintering phase; - sintering pressure between 0 MPa and 100 MPa, preferably between 10 MPa and 90 MPa; - currents between 2,000 and 20,000 Amperes, preferably between 3,000 and 4,000 Amperes; - voltage between 2 and 10 Volts, preferably between 5 and 10 Volts.
[0058] According to another embodiment, the powders Mp1 and Mp2 of the primary material M1 and secondary material M2 of the watch component 100, particularly of a case component such as a watch case, bezel, or case back, are each precious metal powders, preferably gold-based or gold-alloy. The parameters of the sintering cycle according to step S5 are adjusted accordingly.
[0059] According to another embodiment, the powders Mp1, Mp2 of the main material M1 and of the secondary material M2 of the watch component 100 are homogeneous powders each comprising ceramic powder and powder of a metal or a metal alloy.
[0060] The metal or metal alloy powder of the main material M1 and of the secondary material M2 is a precious metal powder, preferably gold-based or gold alloy-based. AUDEMA-38-PCT
[0061] According to another embodiment and with reference to Figure 2, the process consists of obtaining a watch component 200, in particular a plate or a bridge of a watch movement, comprising a main material M1 and a secondary material M2 having at least one predominant functional property compared to the properties of the main material.
[0062] A mainplate or bridge 200, for example, can be made of ceramic and include areas of another material whose Young's modulus allows for deformation of this material to accommodate bearings, particularly ruby bushings, while avoiding weakening the surrounding ceramic area. The mainplate can thus be made primarily of ceramic, except for these areas designed to receive, via bushings, the pivots of moving parts in a watch movement.
[0063] The first step S1 consists of creating a preform P of the three-dimensional element, preferably by additive manufacturing as described above, from a powder Mp2 of the secondary material M2 that partially constitutes the plate or bridge 200. The powder Mp2 is metallic and preferably an alloy suitable for pressing out bushings or bearings. Such an alloy could typically be nickel silver or brass, or even a noble material with the necessary ductility for this operation.
[0064] The preform P, for example, comprises a structure with several elements or pads p1, p2, p3 held apart by connecting elements L to position the pads relative to each other. This step may also be followed by at least a partial chemical debinding step and a thermal debinding step so that the residual binder content is within a range of 0 to 10% by mass, preferably 0 to 3%.
[0065] A first layer Ci of ceramic powder Mp1, for example of ZTA type, is placed in the bottom of the mold M, typically with a diameter of 36mm, at step S2 so as to have a thickness, after being pre-compacted, within a range of 0.5 and 10mm and AUDEMA-38-PCT preferably ranging from 1 to 2mm. The preform P is then placed in the mold M on the first layer Ci pre-compacted according to step S3. The second layer C2 of the ceramic powder Mp1 is deposited in step S4 in order to surround the structure P until it is completely covered, with an additional thickness in a range of 0.5 to 10mm, preferably 1 to 2mm after pre-compaction of the powder.
[0066] The sintering cycle, preferably of the SPS type, carried out in step S5 includes, for the manufacture of a plate, in particular the following parameters: - temperature rise profile located between 20°C / min and 200°C / min, preferably between 20°C / min and 150°C / min up to a target temperature typically between 600°C and 500°C, preferably between 800°C and 100°C; - maintaining the target temperature between 1 and 20 min, preferably between 1 and 5 min; - temperature descent profile located between 25°C and 100 °C / min after the sintering phase; - sintering pressure between 0 MPa and 100 MPa, preferably between 10 MPa and 60 MPa; - currents between 2,000 and 20,000 Amperes, preferably between 3,000 and 4,000 Amperes; - voltage between 2 and 10 Volts, preferably between 5 and 10 Volts.
[0067] During step S6, the sintered material pellet can first be cut by water jet or laser to obtain a rough shape resembling the final part dimensions, followed by a milling operation to obtain, for example, the exact dimensions of the plate or bridge 200. The milling operation reveals the Z-zones, typically circular in shape, made of the secondary material M2. This secondary material could be nickel silver, brass, or any other sufficiently malleable or ductile material to accommodate the bearings or bushings.
[0068] Optionally, a decorative operation can then be carried out on the mainplate or bridge 200. This operation could consist of creating an ornament on the surface of the mainplate or bridge using a mechanical process. The mechanical process can be AUDEMA-38-PCT including polishing, sandblasting, satin finishing of the straight, circular or spiral type, microblasting, guilloché, perlage, Côtes de Genève finish or hand engraving.
[0069] Although the process just described relates essentially to the manufacture of a watch component, it will be understood that it could be applied or adapted without difficulty by a person skilled in the art to the manufacture of a jewelry component, for example a jewelry item, without departing from the scope of the present invention as defined by the attached claims. AUDEMA-38-PCT
Claims
Demands 1. A method for manufacturing a finished or semi-finished watch or jewelry component (100; 200), comprising a main material (M1) and a different secondary material (M2) partially embedded in the main material (M1) in order to present, on the surface of said component (100; 200), a decorative, functional or both pattern (MT; Z), the method comprising the following steps: i) placing in a mold (M) a powder (Mp1) of the main material (M1) and at least one three-dimensional element made from a powder (Mp2) of the secondary material (M2), the three-dimensional element being fully embedded within the powder of the main material (M1); ii) carry out a sintering operation on the material contained in the mold (M) without either of the main material (M1) and the secondary material (M2) melting in order to obtain a sintered body, and iii) carry out at least one material removal operation on the sintered body so as to reveal on the surface of the component (100;200) said motif (MT; Z) of the three-dimensional element made of the secondary material (M2), the remainder of said three-dimensional element being integrated into the mass of said component (100; 200) made of the main material (M1), characterized in that said at least one three-dimensional element is in step i) in the form of a preform (P).; 2. Manufacturing method according to claim 1, wherein said pattern (MT; Z) follows the profile of the surrounding surface of said component made of the main material (M1).
3. A manufacturing method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein said motif (MT; Z) represents a geometric figure, a logo or any other controlled shape.
4. A manufacturing method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said at least one preform (P) is produced by an additive manufacturing process. AUDEMA-38-PCT 5. A manufacturing method according to the preceding claim, wherein said additive manufacturing method is a stereolithography (SLA) or filament (Fused Deposition Modeling) 3D printing method, the filament comprising the powder (Mp2) of the secondary material (M2) and an organic binder comprising at least one thermoplastic compound.
6. A manufacturing method according to the preceding claim, wherein a debinding step, at least partial, of the preform (P) is carried out before step i).
7. A manufacturing method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein step i) consists of placing in the mold (M) a first layer (Ci) of the powder (Mp1) of the main material (M1) with a thickness of between 0.5 and 10mm, preferably between 1 and 4mm, placing said at least one preform (P) on the first layer (Ci), and placing a second layer (C2) of the powder (Mp1) of the main material (M1) with a thickness of between 0.5 and 10mm, preferably between 1 and 5mm, in order to surround and completely cover the preform (P) with the main material.
8. A manufacturing method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the secondary material (M2) has a visual appearance that is indistinguishable from that of the main material (M1) under normal lighting conditions and a visual appearance distinct from that of the main material (M1) in the dark or under ultraviolet radiation.
9. A manufacturing process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the powder (Mp2) of the secondary material (M2) is a mixture of at least one metal and at least one luminescent material.
10. A manufacturing process according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the powders (Mp1, Mp2) of the main (M1) and secondary (M2) material each comprise at least one material or combination of materials from ceramic materials and metallic materials, preferably precious such as those comprising gold. AUDEMA-38-PCT 11. A manufacturing process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the powders are chosen so that the color difference between the main material and the secondary material is greater than a Delta E of 1 according to the CIEDE2000 standard, preferably greater than a Delta E of 2 or 3, in order to have a clear and perceptible visual distinction between the main and secondary materials.
12. A manufacturing method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the preform (P) is a structure comprising elements spaced apart from each other, the secondary material (M2) having at least one predominant functional property compared to the properties of the main material (M1), preferably the secondary material (M2) having a Young's modulus lower than the Young's modulus of the main material (M1).
13. Finished or semi-finished watch or jewelry component (100, 200) obtained by the process according to one of the preceding claims.
14. Finished or semi-finished watch component (100, 200), in particular a plate or a bridge, obtained by the process according to claim 12, wherein the secondary material (M2) defines at least in part zones (Z) configured for the fixing of pivots.
15. Timepiece comprising one or more components according to at least one of claims 13 and 14. AUDEMA-38-PCT