Composition comprising hydrophilic active ingredient in oil

Abstract

A composition comprising: i) from 2% to 5% by weight of an aqueous solution comprising a hydrophilic active ingredient; ii) from 1% to 2% by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate; iii) from 10% to 12% by weight of a polyglycerol-3 ester of a fatty acid; iv) at least 83% by weight of an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and ethylhexyl palmitate; and wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and wherein the sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight. A method for dispersing a hydrophilic active ingredient in an oil. A cosmetic or dermatological pharmaceutical formulation comprising the initial composition. The invention also relates to a cosmetic or dermatological pharmaceutical formulation. A method of cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject comprising topical application of a cosmetically effective amount of the composition.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising a hydrophilic active ingredient in an oil system, more particularly to a hydrophilic cosmetic and dermatological active ingredient. The composition can be used to prepare cosmetic and dermatological preparations for topical application of the active ingredient to the skin.

[0002] Also disclosed is a method for dispersing a hydrophilic active ingredient in oil. Background Art

[0003] Hydrophilic or water-soluble active ingredients are widely used in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Some ingredients are highly hydrophilic and lipophobic, meaning they are soluble in water but have poor or no solubility in formulations with a high oil content.

[0004] However, many formulations, particularly those useful for applying active ingredients to the skin, have a high oil content and are highly hydrophobic. Indeed, in some industries, such as the cosmetics industry, there is a trend to reduce the amount of water in formulations, and anhydrous products are becoming increasingly common. Formulating hydrophilic active ingredients in essentially hydrophobic products presents a significant challenge to formulators, as such products do not allow the hydrophilic active ingredient to dissolve and can compromise its stability.

[0005] Formulations using dispersions and emulsions are commonly used to address the problem of incorporating hydrophilic active ingredients into highly hydrophobic systems. However, such formulations often have poor stability, are chemically unstable, tend to phase separate, can have inconsistent performance, can require large amounts of emulsifiers, surfactants, or preservatives, can be opaque and visually unappealing to consumers, or lack a pleasant feel when applied to the skin. Various formulations containing hydrophilic active ingredients are disclosed, for example, in WO2015066877A1 and WO20221132A1.

[0006] Therefore, there is a need to provide compositions that allow the dispersion of hydrophilic active ingredients in oil systems. There is also a need to obtain clear or transparent compositions that allow the incorporated active ingredients to remain stable over time. Summary of the Invention

[0007] The present invention solves some or all of the above problems and provides a composition comprising a hydrophilic active ingredient and which can be stably formulated in an oil system. Advantageously, the composition of the present invention is clear, which is more visually appealing to consumers.

[0008] In a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition comprising:

[0009] i) 2% to 5% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient;

[0010] ii) 1 to 2 wt% of methyl glucose sesquistearate;

[0011] iii) 10 to 12 wt% of polyglycerol-3 esters of fatty acids;

[0012] iv) at least 83% by weight of an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and ethylhexyl palmitate; and

[0013] wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and

[0014] The sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

[0015] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method for dispersing a hydrophilic active ingredient in oil, the method comprising the steps of:

[0016] (i) dissolving a hydrophilic active ingredient in an aqueous solution; and

[0017] (ii) mixing the aqueous solution obtained in step i) with an oil system comprising a combination of methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-3 esters of fatty acids and an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate and ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0018] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical formulation comprising a composition according to the first aspect, together with at least one cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically acceptable excipient or adjuvant.

[0019] In another aspect, the present invention provides a method for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject, the method comprising topically applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition according to the first aspect or the cosmetic preparation according to the third aspect.

[0020] In another aspect, the present invention provides use of a composition according to the first aspect for the cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0021] definition

[0022] In the context of the present invention, "skin" is understood to include the layers of the skin, from the uppermost layer or stratum corneum to the lowermost layer or hypodermis (inclusive). These layers are composed of different types of cells, such as keratinocytes, fibroblasts, melanocytes, mast cells, neurons and / or adipocytes, etc. The term "skin" also includes the scalp. The term "skin" includes mammalian skin and includes human skin. Similarly, the term "hair, nails and mucous membranes" includes the hair, nails and mucous membranes of mammals (e.g., humans).

[0023] The term "treatment," as used herein and when not accompanied by the qualifier "cosmetic, non-therapeutic," refers to therapeutic methods, including methods involving the administration of a compound according to the present invention to alleviate or eliminate a disease or disorder, or to reduce or eliminate one or more symptoms associated with the disease or disorder. The term "treatment," when not accompanied by the qualifier "cosmetic, non-therapeutic," also encompasses therapeutic methods that involve alleviating or eliminating the physiological consequences of a disease or disorder.

[0024] When the terms "treatment" and "care" are accompanied by the qualifier "cosmetic, non-therapeutic", it is meant that the purpose of the treatment or care is to improve or maintain the aesthetic appearance of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes. In particular, the purpose of the treatment is to improve the cosmetic properties of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes, such as, for example and without limitation, hydration level, elasticity, firmness, radiance, tone or texture, which properties affect the aesthetic appearance of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes. The term "care" in the context of this specification refers to maintaining the properties of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes. The properties are improved or maintained by cosmetically treating and / or caring for the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of both healthy subjects and subjects presenting diseases and / or disorders of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes.

[0025] As used herein, the term "prevention" refers to the ability of a compound or composition to prevent, delay or hinder the appearance or development of a disease or disorder, or to prevent, delay or hinder changes in the cosmetic properties of the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair. As used herein, the term "prevention" is interchangeable with the term "inhibition," that is, it refers to the ability of the compounds of the present invention to inhibit the appearance or development of a disease or disorder, or to inhibit changes in the cosmetic properties of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes. Prevention also involves partially or completely avoiding the development of a condition in a subject by taking measures to reduce the effects of the etiological causes associated with the development of such disorders. Thus, the term prevention is often used to mean "reducing the risk of a disorder," i.e., reducing the likelihood of suffering from the disorder.

[0026] In the context of the present invention, the term "aging" refers to the changes that the skin undergoes due to the intrinsic aging process (i.e. chronic aging) or the extrinsic skin aging process induced by environmental factors (i.e., by exposure to the sun (photoaging) or environmental agents such as tobacco smoke, extreme climatic conditions of severe cold or high winds, chemical pollutants or pollutants). In the context of the present invention, aging includes all changes that are visible externally and / or perceptible by touch, such as but not limited to: discontinuous development of the skin, such as wrinkles, fine lines, expression lines, stretch marks, grooves, irregularities or roughness; enlargement of pores, loss of hydration, loss of elasticity, loss of firmness, loss of smoothness, loss of ability to recover from deformation, loss of resilience; sagging of the skin, such as sagging cheeks, bags under the eyes or the appearance of a double chin; changes in skin color, such as streaking, redness, bags under the eyes or the appearance of areas of hyperpigmentation, such as age spots or freckles; abnormal differentiation, hyperkeratosis, elastosis, keratosis, hair loss, orange peel skin, loss of collagen structure and other histological changes in the stratum corneum, dermis, epidermis, vascular system (for example, the appearance of spider veins or telangiectasias) or those tissues close to the skin. The term "photoaging" is grouped together with a group of processes that result in permanent aging of the skin due to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, and which presents the same physical characteristics of aging, such as, but not limited to, sagging, color changes or irregularities in pigmentation, abnormalities, and / or hyperkeratosis. The sum of various environmental factors, such as exposure to tobacco smoke, exposure to pollution, and climatic conditions (such as extreme cold and / or high winds), can also lead to skin aging.

[0027] As used herein, the terms "comprising" or "including" (which are inclusive or open-ended and do not exclude additional unrecited elements or method steps) are intended to encompass, as alternative embodiments, the phrases "consisting essentially of" and "consisting of," where "consisting of" excludes any element or step not specified and "consisting essentially of" permits the inclusion of additional unrecited elements or steps that do not materially affect the essence or basic and novel characteristics of the composition or method under consideration.

[0028] Unless otherwise indicated in the examples or otherwise explicitly stated, all numerical quantities in this specification specifying amounts of materials, reaction conditions, molecular weights, numbers of carbon atoms, and the like should be understood to be modified by the word "about". As used herein, the term "about", for example, when referring to a measurable value (such as the amount or weight of a particular component or temperature), refers to variations of ±20%, ±10%, ±5%, ±1%, ±0.5%, or particularly ±0.1% of the specified amount. Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical quantities in the specification specifying amounts or ratios of materials are based on weight.

[0029] Hydrophilic active ingredients

[0030] In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition comprising:

[0031] i) 2% to 5% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient;

[0032] ii) 1 to 2 wt% of methyl glucose sesquistearate

[0033] iii) 10 to 12 wt% of polyglycerol-3 esters of fatty acids;

[0034] iv) at least 83% by weight of an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and ethylhexyl palmitate; and

[0035] wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and

[0036] The sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

[0037] The present invention provides compositions that allow for the stable formulation of hydrophilic active ingredients in oil.

[0038] The composition of the present invention is suitable for topical administration. Therefore, in particular, the composition is a composition for topical administration.

[0039] As used herein, the term "active ingredient," "active compound," or "active substance" refers to a compound that provides a beneficial effect to a subject, particularly a mammal, more particularly a human subject, when administered in an effective amount. The active ingredient can be administered alone or in combination with other ingredients.

[0040] The term effective amount is understood to mean an amount of the active ingredient that is non-toxic but sufficient to provide the desired effect. For example, a "cosmetically effective amount" is understood to be an amount necessary and sufficient to improve or maintain the aesthetic appearance of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes, and the term "pharmaceutically effective amount" is understood to be an amount necessary and sufficient to prevent or treat a disease or condition. The terms "pharmaceutically effective" and "therapeutically effective" are used interchangeably herein. The effective amount of the compound of the present invention that should be administered, as well as its dosage, will depend on a variety of factors, including age, the patient's condition, the nature or severity of the condition, disorder or disease to be treated and / or cared for, the route, location and frequency of administration, and the specific properties of the ingredients to be used. Such amounts can be determined by those skilled in the art using conventional methods, such as by in vitro, ex vivo or in vitro assays.

[0041] The active ingredient used in the composition of the present invention is in a cosmetically or dermatologically effective concentration to achieve the desired effect; for example, relative to the total weight of the composition, its amount is: 0.00000001% (by weight) to 20% (by weight); 0.000001% (by weight) to 15% (by weight), 0.00001% (by weight) to 10% (by weight); or 0.0001% (by weight) to 5% (by weight). Specifically, the amount of the active ingredient can be at least 0.001% by weight, more particularly at least 0.01% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The concentration of the active ingredient can be 0.001% to 1% by weight, 0.01% to 0.5% by weight, 0.05% to 0.25% by weight, or 0.1% to 0.2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0042] In particular, the concentration of the aqueous solution comprising the hydrophilic active ingredient is from 2% to 3% by weight, more particularly from 2% to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0043] As used herein, the term "hydrophilic" refers to an active ingredient that is soluble in distilled water (or equivalent) at a concentration of at least 0.001% by weight, particularly 0.1% by weight, at 25°C and normal pressure. Hydrophilic active ingredients are known to be lipophobic. As used herein, the term "lipophobic" refers to an active ingredient that is insoluble in oil at a concentration of at least 0.001% by weight, particularly at least 0.1% by weight, at 25°C and normal pressure.

[0044] An advantageous feature of the present invention is that the composition is clear or transparent, compared to conventional water-in-oil emulsions. According to the present invention, the term "clear" or "transparent" (i.e., clarity) is intended to mean its usual dictionary definition; thus, for example, a transparent composition of the present invention allows easy observation of objects behind it. In contrast, a translucent composition allows light to pass through, but causes the light to be scattered, making it impossible to clearly see objects behind the translucent composition. For example, the optical clarity of the composition of the present invention can be measured using a turbidimeter after allowing the composition to stand at room temperature for at least 24 hours, and ideally is better than 50 NTU when measured at room temperature (20°C to 25°C). Therefore, the present invention provides a composition that is more attractive to consumers than conventional water-in-oil emulsions, which typically have a translucent or opaque milky appearance.

[0045] The aqueous solution may contain water and a small amount of a water-soluble organic solvent, in particular less than 10% by weight, or less than 5% by weight, or less than 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the aqueous solution. More particularly, the aqueous solution contains no organic or inorganic solvent other than water, i.e., the aqueous solution contains only water as a solvent, more particularly distilled or purified water. In one embodiment, the aqueous solution consists essentially of water and the hydrophilic active ingredient, or even consists of water and the hydrophilic active ingredient.

[0046] Optionally, the pH may be adjusted to fall within the range of 4.0 to 8, more particularly 6.0 to 7.0.

[0047] Non-limiting examples of hydrophilic active ingredients are moisturizers or substances that retain water, agents that stimulate healing, agents that stimulate re-epithelialization, agents that synthesize dermal or epidermal macromolecules, skin tightening and / or re-firming and / or restructuring agents, cytokine growth factors, anti-glycation agents, antioxidants, free radical scavengers and / or anti-pollution agents, scavengers of reactive carbonyl species, 5α-reductase inhibitors, lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, defensin synthesis stimulants, bactericidal and / or bacteriostatic agents and / or antimicrobial agents and / or antifungal agents. and / or antifungal agents, antiviral agents, antiparasitic agents, antihistamines, peeling or keratolytic and / or exfoliating agents, comedolytics, antipsoriatics, antidandruff agents, anti-inflammatory and / or analgesics, anesthetics, anti-wrinkle and / or anti-aging agents, cosmetics and / or absorbents and / or deodorants that mask body odor, antiperspirants, agents that inhibit vascular permeability, hydrolyze epidermal enzymes, whitening or skin depigmenting agents, agents that inhibit sweat-degrading enzymes, agents capable of filtering ultraviolet rays, agents that stimulate or regulate keratinocyte differentiation, antipruritic agents, agents that stimulate or inhibit melanin synthesis agents, pigmentation promoting agents, self-tanning agents, agents stimulating melanocyte proliferation, liquid propellants, vitamins and vitamin derivatives, amino acids, skin relaxants, agents capable of reducing or treating eye bags, agents for treating and / or caring for sensitive skin, astringents, agents regulating sebum production, anti-stretch mark agents, lipolytic agents or agents promoting fat breakdown, venotonic agents, anti-cellulite agents, sedatives, agents improving the dermal-epidermal junction, agents inducing hair growth or hair loss, agents inhibiting or preventing body hair growth, stimulators of heat shock protein synthesis , muscle relaxants, muscle contraction inhibitors, agents that inhibit acetylcholine receptor aggregation, anticholinergic agents, elastase inhibitors, matrix metalloproteinase inhibitors, chelating agents, mineral salts, cell extracts, emulsifiers, agents that stimulate the synthesis of lipids and stratum corneum components (ceramides, fatty acids, etc.), agents that regulate the skin microbiota or microbiome, agents that regulate the circadian rhythm of skin cells, skin conditioning agents, immunomodulators, agents that improve skin lightness or radiance, agents that improve skin microcirculation, vascularization and / or skin oxygenation and / or mixtures thereof.

[0048] The nature of these active ingredients can be synthetic, natural or natural derivatives. Non-limiting examples of natural ingredients include plants or plant extracts, purified ingredients obtained from plants or plant extracts (i.e., phytochemical compounds), protein hydrolysates, marine extracts, and ingredients obtained by biotechnological methods. In the context of the present invention, biotechnological methods are understood to be any method that produces an active ingredient or a part of an active ingredient in an organism or a part thereof. Specifically, the organism can be a microorganism. The ingredient can also be obtained from a combination of a synthetic method and a biotechnological method.

[0049] Surprisingly, it has been found that the combination of components of the composition according to the invention further improves the stability of active ingredients (such as water-soluble peptides) in oil-based formulations compared to other oil systems in which the peptides are less stable and more susceptible to degradation. Therefore, of particular interest as active ingredients in the context of the present invention are peptides or peptide derivatives of natural or synthetic origin.

[0050] Specifically, the peptide may be a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide, a pentapeptide, a hexapeptide, a heptapeptide, an octapeptide, a nonapeptide and / or a mixture thereof.

[0051] Specifically, the hydrophilic active ingredient may be one or more peptides selected from the group consisting of:

[0052] R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2 (SEQ ID. 1);

[0053] R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-Asp-R2 (SEQ ID. 2);

[0054] R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-R2 (SEQ ID.3);

[0055] R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.4);

[0056] R1-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.5);

[0057] R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.6);

[0058] R1-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.7);

[0059] R1-Phe-Trp-Met-Lys-Arg-Lys-Arg-Val-Pro-R2 (SEQ.ID.8);

[0060] R1-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-R2 (SEQ. ID. 9); and

[0061] R1-Leu-Pro-Val-Thr-R2 (SEQ.ID.10);

[0062] wherein R1 is selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from the group consisting of: C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 24 Alkenyl, C3-C 24 Cycloalkyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of: H and C1-C 16 alkyl.

[0063] R1 is bound to the amino terminus (N-terminus) of the peptide, and R2 is bound to the carboxyl terminus (C-terminus) of the peptide.

[0064] In this specification, the abbreviations used for amino acids follow the rules specified by the IUPAC-IUB Commission of Biochemical Nomenclature in Eur. J. Biochem. (1984), 138, 9-37. Thus, for example, Gly represents NH2-CH2-COOH, Gly- represents NH2-CH2-CO-, -Gly represents -NH-CH2-COOH, and -Gly- represents -NH-CH2-CO-. Thus, the hyphen representing the peptide bond, when located to the right of the symbol, eliminates the OH in the 1-carboxyl group of the amino acid (represented here in conventional non-ionized form), and when located to the left of the symbol, eliminates the H in the 2-amino group of the amino acid; both modifications can be applied to the same symbol (see Table 1).

[0065]

[0066]

[0067] Table 1

[0068] As used herein, the term "alkyl" includes saturated straight and branched chain alkyl groups, which may be substituted (single or multiple) or unsubstituted. The alkyl group is bound to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. The alkyl group has 1 to 24, preferably 1 to 16, more preferably 1 to 14, even more preferably 1 to 12, yet more preferably 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms. The term "alkyl" includes, for example, methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, 2-methylbutyl, heptyl, 5-methylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl, lauryl, hexadecyl, octadecyl and pentyl.

[0069] As used herein, the term "alkenyl" refers to a group that contains one or more carbon-carbon double bonds and can be linear or branched and substituted (single or multiple) or unsubstituted. Preferably, it has 1, 2 or 3 carbon-carbon double bonds. If there are more than one carbon-carbon double bond, the double bonds can be conjugated or unconjugated. Preferably, the alkenyl group has 2 to 24, preferably 2 to 16, more preferably 2 to 14, even more preferably 2 to 12, and still more preferably 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms. The alkenyl group is bound to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. The term "alkenyl" includes groups such as vinyl (-CH2=CH2), allyl (-CH2-CH=CH2), prenyl, oleyl, linoleyl groups, etc.

[0070] The term "cycloalkyl" refers to a saturated monocyclic or polycyclic alkyl group that may be substituted (single or multiple) or unsubstituted. Cycloalkyl groups have 3 to 24, preferably 3 to 16, more preferably 3 to 14, even more preferably 3 to 12, and even more preferably 3, 4, 5, or 6 carbon atoms. Cycloalkyl groups are bonded to the rest of the molecule by a single bond. Cycloalkyl groups include, for example, and are not limited to, cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, methylcyclohexyl, dimethylcyclohexyl, octahydroindene, decahydronaphthalene, dodecahydrophenazone, and the like.

[0071] As understood in the art, the above groups may have a certain degree of substitution. Specifically, substitution may be present in any of the groups identified above. The substituted groups (free radicals) mentioned above are groups (or free radicals) substituted by one or more substituents in one or more available positions. Preferably, the substitution is in 1, 2 or 3 positions, more preferably in 1 or 2 positions, and even more preferably in 1 position. Suitable substituents include, for example and not limited to: C1-C4 alkyldihydroxy; C1-C4 alkoxy; amino; amino-C1-C4 alkyl; C1-C4 carbonyloxy; C1-C4 oxycarbonyl; halogen, such as fluoride, chlorine, bromine and iodine; cyano; nitro; azide; C1-C4 alkylsulfonyl; thiol; C1-C4 alkylthio; aryloxy, such as phenoxy; -NR b (C=NR b )NR b R c ; where R b and R c independently selected from the group consisting of: H, C1-C4 alkyl, C2-C4 alkenyl, alkynyl, C3-C 10 Cycloalkyl, C6-C 18 Aryl, C7-C 17 A protecting group for an aralkyl group, a 3-membered to 10-membered heterocyclic group or an amino group.

[0072] The amino acids that make up a peptide can have the configuration L- or D-. Generally speaking, unless otherwise indicated, an amino acid is in the L-configuration. For example, when an amino acid is described as Arg, it is understood that the amino acid is Arg or L-Arg, and when an amino acid is described as D-Arg, the amino acid is in the D-configuration.

[0073] R1 may be selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from the group consisting of: C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 24 Alkenyl, C3-C 24 Cycloalkyl or a group consisting of: C1-C 16 Alkyl, C2-C 18 R5-CO- groups include alkanoyl groups such as acetyl (CH3-CO-, which is abbreviated herein as "Ac-"), myristoyl (CH3-(CH2) 12 -CO-, which is abbreviated herein as "Myr-") and palmitoyl (CH3-(CH2) 14 -CO-, which is abbreviated herein as "Palm-").

[0074] R1 may be selected from the group consisting of H and acetyl, tert-butyryl, prenyl, hexanoyl, 2-methylhexanoyl, cyclohexanecarboxyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl and linoleoyl.

[0075] R1 may be selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from the group consisting of: C1-C 16 Alkyl or C2-C 18 Alkenyl.

[0076] R1 can be selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is C1-C 15 alkyl.

[0077] R1 may be selected from the group consisting of H, acetyl and palmitoyl.

[0078] R2 may be -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 is H, and R4 is selected from the group consisting of H and C1-C 16 The group formed by the alkyl group includes methyl, ethyl, hexyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl.

[0079] R2 can be selected from the group consisting of: -OH, -NH2 and -NHR4, wherein R4 is C1-C 16 Alkyl or C1-C3 alkyl or C1-C2 alkyl.

[0080] R2 can be -OH or -NH2.

[0081] R1 may be selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from the group consisting of: C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 24 Alkenyl, C3-C 24 Cycloalkyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of: H and C1-C 16 In this embodiment, R3 can be H, and R4 can be selected from H, C1-C 16 The group formed by alkyl, C1-C3 alkyl and C1-C2 alkyl; for example, R2 can be selected from the group consisting of: -OH and -NH2.

[0082] R1 can be selected from the group consisting of: H and acetyl, tert-butyryl, isoprenyl, hexanoyl, 2-methylhexanoyl, cyclohexanecarboxyl, octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl and linoleoyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of: H and C1-C16 In this embodiment, R3 can be H, and R4 can be selected from H, C1-C 16 The group formed by alkyl, C1-C3 alkyl and C1-C2 alkyl; for example, R2 can be selected from the group consisting of: -OH and -NH2.

[0083] R1 may be selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from the group consisting of: C1-C 16 Alkyl or C2-C 18 and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of: H and C1-C 16 In this embodiment, R3 can be H, and R4 can be selected from H, C1-C 16 The group formed by alkyl, C1-C3 alkyl and C1-C2 alkyl; for example, R2 can be selected from the group consisting of: -OH and -NH2.

[0084] R1 can be selected from the group consisting of: H, acetyl, myristoyl and palmitoyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of: H and C1-C 16 In this embodiment, R3 can be H, and R4 can be selected from H, C1-C 16 The group formed by alkyl, C1-C3 alkyl and C1-C2 alkyl; for example, R2 can be selected from the group consisting of: -OH and -NH2.

[0085] R1 can be selected from the group consisting of H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is C1-C 15 Alkyl, and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from H and C1-C 16 In this embodiment, R3 can be H, and R4 can be selected from H, C1-C 16 The group formed by alkyl, C1-C3 alkyl and C1-C2 alkyl; for example, R2 can be selected from the group consisting of: -OH and -NH2.

[0086] R1 can be selected from the group consisting of H, acetyl and palmitoyl, and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of H and C1-C 16 In this embodiment, R3 can be H, and R4 can be selected from H, C1-C 16 The group formed by alkyl, C1-C3 alkyl and C1-C2 alkyl; for example, R2 can be selected from the group consisting of: -OH and -NH2.

[0087] In one embodiment, R1 is acetyl and R2 is NH2.

[0088] In one embodiment, R1 is H and R2 is OH.

[0089] In particular, the peptide may be selected from the group consisting of: R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2, R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-Asp-R2, R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2, R1-Phe-Trp-Met-Lys-Arg-Lys-Arg-Val-Pro-R2 and R1-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-R2, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the peptide may be selected from the group consisting of: R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2, R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2, R1-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-R2 and mixtures thereof.

[0090] The peptide may be R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2. The peptide may be R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2. The peptide may be H-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-R2. The peptide may be R1-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-R2.

[0091] More particularly, the peptide may be one or more selected from the group consisting of:

[0092] Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2(PEP-1);

[0093] Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-Asp-NH2(PEP-2);

[0094] Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-NH2(PEP-3);

[0095] Ac-Arg-Arg-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-4);

[0096] Ac-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-5);

[0097] Ac-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-6);

[0098] Ac-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-7);

[0099] H-Phe-Trp-Met-Lys-Arg-Lys-Arg-Val-Pro-NH2(PEP-8);

[0100] H-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-OH (PEP-9); and

[0101] H-Leu-Pro-Val-Thr-OH (PEP-10).

[0102] In particular, the peptide may be selected from the group consisting of: PEP-1, PEP-2, PEP-6, PEP-8, PEP-9, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, the peptide may be selected from the group consisting of: PEP-1, PEP-6, and PEP-9. The peptide may be PEP-1. The peptide may be PEP-6. The peptide may be PEP-9.

[0103] The cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts of the peptides in the context of the present invention are also found within the scope of the present invention. The term "cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salt" refers to salts that are approved for use in animals (e.g., mammals), more specifically, humans, and includes salts that are used to form base addition salts, which are inorganic, such as, but not limited to, lithium, sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, manganese, copper, zinc, or aluminum, or organic, such as, but not limited to, ethylamine, diethylamine, ethylenediamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine, arginine, lysine, histidine, or piperazine, or acid addition salts, which are organic, such as, but not limited to, acetate, citrate, lactate, malonate, maleate, tartrate, fumarate, benzoate, aspartate, glutamate, succinate, oleate, trifluoroacetate, oxalate, pamoate, or gluconate, or inorganic, such as, but not limited to, chloride, sulfate, borate, or carbonate, etc. The nature of the salt is not critical, provided that it is cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable. Cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salts of peptides can be obtained by conventional methods well known in the art [Berge SM et al., "Pharmaceutical Salts", (1977), J. Pharm. Sci., 66, 1-19].

[0104] The synthesis of the peptide and / or its cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable salt can be carried out according to conventional methods known in the art, such as solid phase peptide synthesis [Stewart JM and Young JD, "Solid Phase Peptide Synthesis, 2nd Edition", (1984), Pierce Chemical Company, Rockford, Illinois; Bodanzsky M. and Bodanzsky Sy A., "The practice of Peptide Synthesis", (1994), Springer Verlag, Berlin; Lloyd-Williams P. et al., "Chemical Approaches to the Synthesis of Peptides and Proteins", (1997), CRC, Boca Raton, FL, USA], solution synthesis, enzymatic synthesis [Kullmann W. "Proteases as catalysts for enzymic syntheses of opioid peptidase"]. peptides)″, (1980), J.Biol.Chem., 255(17), 8234-8238] or any combination thereof. The compounds can also be obtained by fermentation of bacterial strains, by genetic engineering with or without modification to produce the desired sequence, or by controlled hydrolysis of proteins of animal or plant origin, preferably plant, which produces free peptide fragments containing the desired sequence.

[0105] For example, a method of obtaining a peptide according to any of the above embodiments may comprise:

[0106] - coupling an amino acid having a protected N-terminus and a free C-terminus with an amino acid having a free N-terminus and a protected or solid support-bound C-terminus;

[0107] - Eliminate the protecting group at the N-terminus;

[0108] - Repeat the coupling sequence and eliminate the N-terminal protecting group until the desired peptide sequence is obtained;

[0109] - Remove the protecting group at the C-terminus or cleave the solid phase support.

[0110] Preferably, the C-terminus is bound to a solid support and the method is carried out in the solid phase, so the method comprises: coupling an amino acid having a protected N-terminus and a free C-terminus with an amino acid having a free N-terminus and a C-terminus bound to a polymer support; removing the protecting group at the N-terminus; and repeating the sequence as many times as desired to obtain a compound of the desired length, and finally cleaving the synthesized compound from the original polymer support.

[0111] The functional groups of the amino acid side chains remain fully protected throughout the synthesis using temporary or permanent protecting groups and can be unprotected simultaneously or orthogonally to the process of cleavage of the peptide from the polymer support.

[0112] Alternatively, solid phase synthesis can be performed using a convergent strategy of coupling a peptide with a polymer support to a peptide or amino acid previously bound to the polymer support. Convergent synthesis strategies are widely known to those skilled in the art and are described in Lloyd-Williams P. et al., "Convergent Solid-Phase Peptide Synthesis" (1993), Tetrahedron, 49 (48), 11065-11133.

[0113] The method may include further steps of deprotecting the N-terminus and C-terminus and / or cleaving the peptide from the polymer support in no particular order using standard procedures and conditions known in the art, after which the functional groups at these termini may be modified. The optional modification of the N-terminus and C-terminus may be performed with the peptide of formula (I) anchored to the polymer support, or when the peptide has been separated from the polymer support.

[0114] Optionally, R1 can be introduced by reacting the N-terminus of the compound of the present invention with an R1-X compound via a nucleophilic substitution reaction in the presence of a suitable base and a solvent, wherein the fragment having a functional group not involved in the formation of the N-C bond is appropriately protected with a temporary or permanent protecting group. R1 is as defined above, and X is a leaving group, such as, but not limited to, p-toluenesulfonyl, methylsulfonyl, and a halogen group.

[0115] Optionally and / or additionally, the R2 group can be introduced by reacting the compound HR2 with a complementary fragment of the peptide of formula (I) in which R2 is -OH, or by preforming an acyl halide with, for example, thionyl chloride, in the presence of a suitable solvent and a base (such as N,N-diisopropylethylamine (DIEA) or trimethylamine) or an additive (such as 1-hydroxybenzotriazole (HOBt) or 1-hydroxyazabenzotriazole (HOAt)) and a dehydrating agent (such as a carbodiimide, a uronium salt, a phosphonium salt or an amidinium salt, etc.), thereby obtaining a peptide of formula (I) according to the present invention, wherein the fragment with functional groups not involved in the formation of the N-C bond is appropriately protected with a temporary or permanent protecting group. Alternatively, other R2 groups can be introduced by simultaneous incorporation from the polymer support into the peptide cleavage process. R2 is -OR3, -NR3R4 or -SR3, wherein R3 and R4 are as defined above.

[0116] Those skilled in the art will readily appreciate that the deprotection / cleavage steps of the C-terminus and N-terminus and their subsequent derivatization may be performed in a different order according to methods known in the art.

[0117] The term "protecting group" refers to a group that blocks an organic functional group and can be removed under controlled conditions. Protecting groups, their relative reactivities and the conditions under which they remain inert are known to those skilled in the art.

[0118] Examples of representative protecting groups for amino groups are amides such as amidoacetate, amidobenzoate, amido pivalate; carbamates such as benzyloxycarbonyl (Cbz or Z), 2-chlorobenzyl (CIZ), p-nitrobenzyloxycarbonyl (pNZ), tert-butoxycarbonyl (Boc), 2,2,2-trichloroethoxycarbonyl (Troc), 2-(trimethylsilyl)ethoxycarbonyl (Teoc), 9-fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl (Fmoc) or allyloxycarbonyl. (Alloc), trityl (Trt), methoxytrityl (Mtt), 2,4-dinitrophenyl (Dnp), N-[1-(4,4-dimethyl-2,6-dioxocyclohex-1-ylidene)ethyl (Dde), 1-(4,4-dimethyl-2,6-dioxo-cyclohexylene)-3-methylbutyl (ivDde), 1-(1-adamantyl)-1-methylethoxycarbonyl (Adpoc), etc., preferably Boc or Fmoc.

[0119] Representative protecting groups for carboxyl groups are exemplified by esters such as tert-butyl ester (tBu), allyl ester (All), triphenylmethyl ester (Trt ester), cyclohexyl ester (cHx), benzyl ester (Bzl), o-nitrobenzyl ester, p-nitrobenzyl ester, p-methoxybenzyl ester, trimethylsilylethyl ester, 2-phenylisopropyl ester, fluorenylmethyl ester (Fm), 4-(N-[1-(4,4-dimethyl-2,6-dioxocyclohexylidene)-3-methylbutyl]amino)benzyl ester (Dmab), and the like; preferred protecting groups of the present invention are All, tBu, cHex, Bzl, and Trt esters.

[0120] The side chains of the trifunctional amino acids can be protected during the synthetic process with temporary or permanent protecting groups that are orthogonal to the protecting groups at the N- and C-termini.

[0121] The hydroxyl group of the tyrosine side chain can be protected with a 2-bromobenzyloxycarbonyl group (2-BrZ), tBu, All, Bzl, or 2,6-dichlorobenzyl (2,6-diClZ). In a preferred embodiment, the protecting group strategy used is one in which the amino group is protected by Boc, the carboxyl group is protected by Bzl, cHx, or All ester, and the tyrosine side chain is protected by 2-BrZ or Bzl. In another preferred embodiment, the protecting group strategy used is one in which the amino group is protected by Fmoc, the carboxyl group is protected by tBu, All, or Trt ester, and the tyrosine side chain is protected by tBu.

[0122] The amino group of the tryptophan side chain can be protected, for example, by formyl (For) or Boc. In one embodiment, the amino group is protected by Fmoc, and the tryptophan side chain can be: unprotected, i.e., the amino acid is incorporated as Fmoc-Trp-OH; protected by Boc, i.e., the amino acid is incorporated as Fmoc-Trp(Boc)-OH; or protected by For, i.e., the amino acid is incorporated as Fmoc-Trp(For)-OH. In one embodiment, the amino group is protected by Boc, and the tryptophan side chain can be protected by For, i.e., the amino acid is incorporated as Boc-Trp(For)-OH.

[0123] Examples of these and other protecting groups, their introduction and removal can be found in the literature [Atherton B. and Sheppard R.C., "Solid Phase Peptide Synthesis: A practical approach", (1989), IRL Oxford University Press]. The term "protecting group" also includes polymeric supports used in solid phase synthesis.

[0124] When the synthesis takes place completely or partially in solid phase, possible solid supports used in the method of the present invention involve polystyrene supports, polyethylene glycol grafted to polystyrene, etc., such as, but not limited to: p-methylbenzhydrylamine resin (MBHA) [Matsueda GR et al., "A p-methylbenzhydrylamine resin for improved solid-phase synthesis of peptideamides", (1981), Peptides, 2, 45-50]; 2-chlorotrityl resin [Barlos K. et al., "Darstellung gesch ützter Peptid-Fragmente unter Einsatz substituierter Triphenylmethyl-Harze", (1989), Tetrahedron Lett., 30, 3943-3946; Barlos K. et al., "Representation of protected peptide fragments using substituted triphenylmethyl resins", (1989), Tetrahedron Lett., 30, 3943-3946; Barlos K. et al., "Representation of protected peptide fragments using substituted triphenylmethyl resins", (1989), Tetrahedron Lett., 30, 3943-3946; Barlos K. et al., "Representation of protected peptide fragments using substituted triphenylmethyl resins", (1990 ... K. et al., "Esterification of partially protected peptide fragments with resins. Peptid-Fragmenten mit Harzen.) Synthesis of Leu1-Gastrin I using 2-chlorotrimethylchlorid (Einsatz von 2-Chlorotritylchlorid zur Synthesevon Leu1-Gastrin I) ", (1989), Tetrahedron Lett., 30, 3947-3951]; TentaGel · Resin (Rapp Polymere GmbH); ChemMatrix TMresin (Matrix Innovation, Inc.), which may or may not contain a labile linker, such as 5-(4-aminomethyl-3,5-dimethoxyphenoxy)valeric acid (PAL) [Albericio F. et al., "Preparation and application of the 5-(4-(9-fluorenylmethyloxycarbonyl)aminomethyl-3,5-dimethoxy-phenoxy)valeric acid (PAL) handle for the solid-phase synthesis of C-terminal peptide amides under mild conditions", (1990), Journal of Organic Chemistry (J. Org. Chem.), 55, 3730-3743]; 2-[4-aminomethyl-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)]phenoxyacetic acid (AM) [Rink H., "Solid-phase synthesis of protected peptide fragments using a trialkoxy-diphenyl-methylester resin", (1987), Tetrahedron Lett., 28, 3787-3790], [Wang SS, "p-Alkoxybenzyl Alcohol Resin and p-Alkoxybenzyloxycarbonylhydrazide Resin for Solid Phase Synthesis of Protected Peptide Fragments", (1973), J. Am. Chem. Soc., 95, 1328-1333], etc., which enable the simultaneous deprotection and cleavage of compounds from polymer supports.

[0125] Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

[0126] The present invention provides a composition comprising at least methyl glucose sesquistearate.Methyl glucose sesquistearate is a mixture of monoesters and diesters of methyl glucoside and stearic acid.

[0127] Non-limiting examples of methyl glucose sesquistearate esters that can be used in the context of the present invention include Glucate® from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM SS emulsifier.

[0128] The concentration of methyl glucose sesquistearate may be 1% to 2% by weight, particularly 1% to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In particular, the concentration may be 1%, 1.1%, 1.2%, 1.4% or 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0129] Polyglycerol-3 esters of fatty acids

[0130] The present invention provides compositions comprising esters of at least one fatty acid. Specifically, the compositions of the present invention comprise polyglycerol-3 esters of at least one fatty acid. These can be described by the following formula:

[0131]

[0132] The R chain represents the acyl group of the fatty acid.

[0133] The polyglyceryl-3 esters of fatty acids that are particularly useful in the context of the present invention are polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitate, polyglyceryl-3 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 arachidate, polyglyceryl-3 behenate, polyglyceryl-3 palmitoleate, polyglyceryl-3 oleate, polyglyceryl-3 linoleate. Specifically, the polyglyceryl-3 esters of fatty acids are selected from the group consisting of polyglyceryl-3 caprylate, polyglyceryl-3 caprate, polyglyceryl-3 laurate, polyglyceryl-3 myristate, and polyglyceryl-3 palmitate. More particularly, the polyglyceryl-3 ester of fatty acids can be polyglyceryl-3 laurate, also known as triglyceride laurate. A non-limiting example of triglyceride laurate that can be used in the context of the present invention is Hydramol® from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM TGL ester.

[0134] Based on the total weight of the composition, the concentration of polyglycerol-3 esters of fatty acids can be 10% to 12% by weight. Specifically, based on the total weight of the composition, the concentration can be 10%, 11% or 12% by weight.

[0135] Ester oil

[0136] The composition of the present invention further comprises an ester oil. In particular, the ester oil is selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, ethylhexyl palmitate and mixtures thereof.

[0137] Examples of such ingredients that may be mentioned are Schercemol from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM CO esters (cetyl ethylhexanoate), Schercemol from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM 318 Esters (Isopropyl Isostearate) and DUB from Stéarinerie Dubois TM PO (ethylhexyl palmitate).

[0138] Advantageously, it has been found that cetyl ethylhexanoate allows obtaining a composition completely free of precipitates, which is visually more attractive to the user.Thus, the ester oil may in particular be cetyl ethylhexanoate.

[0139] The concentration of the ester oil may be at least 83 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition. The concentration of the ester oil may be from 85 wt % to 87 wt %, or from 86 wt % to 87 wt %, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0140] Specifically, the present invention provides a composition comprising 2% to 3% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient (particularly a peptide), 1% to 2% by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 10% to 12% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 esters of fatty acids and 85% to 87% by weight of an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate and ethylhexyl palmitate; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and wherein the sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

[0141] Specifically, the present invention provides a composition comprising 2% to 3% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient (particularly a peptide), 1% to 2% by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 10% to 12% by weight of triglyceride of laurate and 85% to 87% by weight of an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate and ethylhexyl palmitate; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and wherein the sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

[0142] Specifically, the present invention provides a composition comprising 2% to 3% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient (particularly a peptide), 1% to 2% by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 10% to 12% by weight of polyglycerol-3 esters of fatty acids and 85% to 87% by weight of cetyl ethylhexanoate; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and wherein the sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

[0143] Specifically, the present invention provides a composition comprising 2% to 3% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient (particularly a peptide), 1% to 2% by weight of methyl glucose sesquistearate, 10% to 12% by weight of triglyceride of laurate and 85% to 87% by weight of cetyl ethylhexanoate; wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and wherein the sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

[0144] Cosmetic and dermatological preparations

[0145] The compositions of the present invention may be administered for their use by any means that bring about contact between the compound and the site of action of the subject's body, preferably the mammalian body, preferably the human body, and in the form of cosmetic and dermatological preparations or products containing the compound together with cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable excipients or adjuvants.

[0146] The terms "cosmetically acceptable excipients" and "dermatologically acceptable excipients" are well known to those skilled in the art and include compounds, materials, compositions, carriers, vehicles and / or dosage forms that, when mixed with a composition, improve application to the skin without undue toxicity, irritation, allergic response or other problems or complications, commensurate with a reasonable benefit / risk ratio. Suitable excipients or adjuvants can be found in standard cosmetic or pharmaceutical textbooks known to those skilled in the art, such as, for example, "Harry's Cosmeticology", Seventh Edition, (1982), Wilkinson JB, Moore RJ, ed. Longman House, Essex, GB, or "Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients" Raymond CRowe, Paul J Sheskey and C Owen, Royal Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain, London, UK.

[0147] The composition according to the first aspect of the invention may be contained in the cosmetic or dermatological preparation in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, particularly 0.01 to 5% by weight, more particularly 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

[0148] Cosmetic or dermatological preparations for topical or transdermal administration may be prepared in any solid, liquid or semisolid dosage form, such as, but not limited to, creams, multiple emulsions (such as, but not limited to, oil-in-water and / or silicone emulsions, water-in-oil and / or silicone emulsions, water / oil / water or water / silicone / water emulsions, and oil / water / oil or silicone / water / silicone emulsions), anhydrous compositions, aqueous dispersions, oils, milks, balms, foams, lotions, gels, cream-gels, hydroalcoholic solutions, hydroglycolic solutions, hydrogels, liniments, serums, soaps, shampoos, conditioners, essences, polysaccharide films, ointments, mousses, pomades, powders, sticks, wands, pens, and sprays or aerosols (sprays), including leave-on and rinse-off preparations.

[0149] In particular, the present invention provides a cosmetic or dermatological preparation in the form of a cream, multiple emulsion, foundation, solution, anhydrous preparation, dispersion, oil, milk, balm, lotion, gel, cream-gel, liniment, conditioner, serum, stick, ointment, mousse, pomade, powder, rod, pen, spray, aerosol or mask.

[0150] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations may also be incorporated into fabrics, nonwovens and medical or cosmetic devices that come into direct contact with the skin. Examples of fabrics, nonwovens, garments, medical or cosmetic devices and devices for fixing compounds thereto (which are the delivery systems and / or sustained-release systems described above) etc. can be found in the literature and are known in the art [Schaab CK (1986) HAPPI May 1986; Nelson G., “Application of microencapsulation in textiles”, (2002), Int. J. Pharm., 242(1-2), 55-62; “Biofunctional Textiles and the Skin” (2006) Curr. Probl. Dermatol., Vol. 33, Hipler U.C. and Elsner P. eds., S. Karger AG, Basel, Switzerland; Malcolm RK et al., Controlled release of a novel self-lubricating silicone biomaterial model for antimicrobial drug delivery. modelantibacterial drug from a novel self-lubricating silicone biomaterial)″, (2004), "Journal of Controlled Release (J.Cont.Release)", 97(2), 313-320]. Preferred fabrics, nonwoven fabrics, garments and medical devices are bandages, gauze, T-shirts, socks, tights, underwear, girdle, gloves, diapers, sanitary napkins, dressings, sheets, wipes, adhesive patches, non-adhesive patches, occlusive patches, microelectric patches and / or masks.

[0151] Cosmetic or dermatological preparations may include sugars, surfactants, humectants, petrolatum, mineral oil, fatty alcohols, fatty ester emollients, waxes and silicone-containing waxes, silicone oils, silicone fluids, silicone surfactants, volatile hydrocarbon oils, quaternary nitrogen compounds, amine-functionalized silicones, conditioning polymers, rheology modifiers, antioxidants, sunscreen actives, about C 10 to C 22 Di-long chain amine, about C 10 to C 22 Long-chain fatty amines, fatty alcohols, ethoxylated fatty alcohols and double-tailed phospholipids.

[0152] Representative carbohydrates include nonionic or cationic carbohydrates such as agarose, pullulan, amylose, arabinan, arabinogalactan, arabinoxylan, carrageenan, gum arabic, carboxymethyl guar, carboxymethyl (hydroxypropyl) guar, hydroxyethyl guar, carboxymethyl cellulose, cationic guar, cellulose ethers (including methyl cellulose), chondroitin, chitin, chitosan, chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, cocodimonium hydroxypropyloxyethylcellulose, polyacetylneuraminic acid (poly-N-acetylneuraminic acid), corn starch, curdlan, dermatan sulfate, dextran, furcellaran, dextran, cross-linked dextran, dextrin, emulsan, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, linseed sugar (acidic), galactoglucomannan, galactomannan, glucomannan, glycogen, guar gum, hydroxyethyl starch Powder, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cellulose, Hydroxypropyl Starch, Hydroxypropylated Guar Gum, Gellan Gum, Gellan Gum, Gum Ghatti, Karaya Gum, Gum Tragacanth (Tragacanth Gum), Heparin, Hyaluronic Acid, Inulin, Keratin Sulfate, Konjac Mannan, Modified Starch, Algae Starch, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyloxyethylcellulose, Okra Gum, Oxidized Starch, Pectin Acid, Pectin, Polydextrose, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium- 10, polyquaternium-28, potato starch, protopectin, psyllium seed gum, pullulan, sodium hyaluronate, diethylaminoethyl starch ether, starch hydroxypropyl triammonium chloride, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, stearyl dimethyl ammonium hydroxyethyl cellulose, raffinose, rhamnose, tapioca starch, whelan, fructan, scleroglucan, sodium alginate, stachyose, succinoglycan, wheat starch, xanthan gum, xylan, xyloglucan and their mixtures. Microbial sugars can be found in Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 4th edition, Vol. 16, John Wiley and Sons, NY, pp. 578-611 (1994), the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. Complex carbohydrates can be found in, for example, Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, 4th edition, volume 4, John Wiley and Sons, NY, pages 930-948, 1995. More particularly, the formulation may comprise microcrystalline cellulose. A suitable microcrystalline cellulose is microcrystalline cellulose from JRS-J. Rettenmaier &

[0153] GmbH&Co.KG CS 9GM.

[0154] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may include surfactants. Surfactants include surfactants that generally provide detergency to the preparation or simply act as a wetting agent. Surfactants can generally be classified as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and zwitterionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants that can be used herein include those disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 5,573,709, which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0155] The anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants used in the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions of the present invention are generally used in an amount of from about 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from about 0.5% to about 40% by weight, and more preferably from about 1% to about 20% by weight.

[0156] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may also include fatty alcohols (typically monohydric alcohols), ethoxylated fatty alcohols, and double-tailed phospholipids, which can be used to stabilize the emulsion or dispersion form of the cosmetically acceptable composition. They also provide cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable viscosity. Examples include stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and isocetyl alcohol.

[0157] The beauty or skin pharmaceutical preparations of the present invention may include a wetting agent, which acts as a hygroscopic agent to increase the amount of water absorbed, maintained and retained. Wetting agents suitable for the preparations of the present invention include, but are not limited to, acetamide MEA, ammonium lactate, chitosan and its derivatives, colloidal oatmeal, galactoarabinan, glutamic acid glucose esters, glycereth-7, glycereth-12, glycereth-26, glycereth-31, glycerol, lactamide MEA, lactamide DEA, lactic acid, methyl gluceth-10, methyl gluceth-20, panthenol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, inositol, mannitol, PEG-5 pentaerythritol ether, polyglyceryl sorbitol, xylitol, sucrose, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA and combinations thereof. Glycerol is a particularly preferred wetting agent. The humectant may be present in the formulation at a concentration of about 0.5% to about 40% by weight, specifically about 0.5% to about 20% by weight, and more specifically about 0.5% to about 12% by weight.

[0158] Beauty treatment of the present invention or skin medicine preparation can comprise vaseline or mineral oil component, and when being selected, it will be USP grade or NF grade generally speaking.Vaseline can be partly replaced by the mixture of hydrocarbon material, and the mixture of this hydrocarbon material can be configured to be similar to vaseline on outward appearance and density.For example, can be with the mixture combination of vaseline or mineral oil and different waxes etc.Concrete wax comprises bayberry wax, candelilla wax, ceresin, jojoba fat, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerite, polyglycerol-3-beeswax, polyglycerol-6-pentastearate, microcrystalline wax, paraffin, isoparaffin, vaseline solid paraffin, squalene, oligoolefin, beeswax, synthetic candelilla wax, synthetic carnauba wax, synthetic beeswax etc., and they can be blended together.Alkylmethylsiloxane with different substitution degree can be used for increasing the water that skin retains. Silicones such as stearyl dimethicone (known as 2503 wax), C30-45 alkyl methicone (known as AMS-C30 wax), and stearoxytrimethicone (and) stearyl alcohol (known as 580 wax), each available from Dow Midland, Mich., USA. Additional alkyl siloxanes and phenyl siloxanes may be used to enhance moisturizing properties. Resins such as polydimethylsiloxane (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate (known as Dow 593) or cyclopolymethylsiloxane (and) trimethylsiloxysilicate (known as Dow 749 fluid) can be used to enhance film formation in skin care products. When used, petrolatum, wax, hydrocarbon, or oil components are included in the formulation at a concentration of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, more preferably about 1% to about 12% by weight. When used, silicone resins may be included at about 0.1% to about 10.0% by weight.

[0159] Emollients are defined as agents that help maintain the soft, smooth, and pliable appearance of the skin. Emollients work by their ability to remain on the surface of the skin or in the stratum corneum. The cosmetic and dermatological preparations of the present invention may include fatty acid ester emollients, which are listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 8th edition, 2000, pages 1768 to 1773.

[0160] Specific examples of fatty acid esters suitable for use in the formulations of the present invention include isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, caprylic / capric triglyceride, cetyl lactate, cetyl palmitate, hydrogenated castor oil, glycerides, hydroxycetyl isostearate, hydroxycetyl phosphate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, PPG-5-ceteth-20, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, C12 to C16 fatty alcohol lactates, isopropyl lanolate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, and mixtures thereof. Currently preferred fatty acid esters are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, PPG-5-ceteth-20, caprylic / capric triglyceride, and isostearyl isostearate. When used, fatty acid ester emollients are preferably included in the formulations of the present invention at a concentration of from about 0.1% to about 99%, more preferably from about 1% to about 40%, by weight.

[0161] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may also include a silicone compound. Preferably, the silicone component has a viscosity of about 0.5 cps to about 12,500 cps at a temperature of 25°C. Examples of suitable materials are dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane-diphenylpolysiloxane, cyclomethicone, trimethylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Polydimethylsiloxane (dimethylpolysiloxane end-capped with trimethyl units) is a preferred example. Polydimethylsiloxanes having a viscosity between 50 cps and 1,000 cps are particularly preferred. When used, silicone oil is preferably included in the preparations of the present invention at a concentration of 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight.

[0162] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may include volatile and non-volatile silicone oils or fluids. The silicone compound may be a linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of about 0.5 centistokes to about 100 centistokes. The most preferred linear polydimethylsiloxane compound has a viscosity range of about 0.5 centistokes to about 50 centistokes. An example of a linear, low molecular weight volatile polydimethylsiloxane is octamethyltrisiloxane, which is available under the trade name Dow Corning®. Silicone oils are commercially available as 200 fluids with a viscosity of about 1 centistoke. When used, silicone oils are preferably included in the formulations of the present invention at a concentration of 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight.

[0163] The cosmetic and dermatological preparations of the present invention may include volatile, cyclic, low molecular weight polydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicone). Preferred cyclic volatile silicones are polydimethylcyclosiloxanes having an average repeating unit count of 4 to 6 and a viscosity of about 2.0 centistokes to about 7.0 centistokes, and mixtures thereof. Preferred cyclomethicone is available under the trade name Dow Corning®. 244 fluid, Dow 245 fluid, Dow 246、Dow 344 Fluid and Dow 345 fluid is available from Dow Corning, Midland, MI, USA, and Silicone SF-1173 and Silicone SF-1202 are available from General Electric, Waterford, NY, USA. When used, silicone oil is preferably included in the formulations of the present invention at a concentration of 0.1% to 30% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight. Silicone surfactants or emulsifiers having polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene side chains may also be used in the formulations of the present invention. Preferred examples include dimethicone copolyols, Dow 3225C and 5225C formulation aids, available from Dow Corning, Midland, MI, USA, and Silicone SF-1528, available from General Electric, Waterford, NY, USA. Side chains may also include alkyl groups such as lauryl or cetyl. Preferred are lauryl methicone copolyols (known as Dow Corning 5200 formulation aid), and cetyl dimethicone copolyol (known as Abil EM-90), which are available from Goldschmidt Chemical Corporation, Hopewell, Va. Also preferred is lauryl dimethicone (known as Belsil LDM 3107VP), which is available from Wacker-Chemie, Munchen, GER. When used, silicone surfactants are preferably included in the formulations of the present invention at a concentration of 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1% to 5% by weight. Amine-functional silicones and emulsions can be used in the present invention. Preferred examples include Dow 8220、Dow 939、Dow 949、Dow 2-8194, all available from Dow Corning, Midland, Mich., USA. Also preferred is Silicone SM 253 available from General Electric, Waterford, NY, USA. When used, amine-functional siloxanes are preferably included in the formulations of the present invention at a concentration of 0.1% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 2.0% by weight.

[0164] Cosmetic or dermatological preparations may include volatile hydrocarbon oils. Volatile hydrocarbons contain about C6 to C22 atoms. Preferred volatile hydrocarbons are aliphatic hydrocarbons having a chain length of about C6 to C16 carbon atoms. Examples of such compounds include isohexadecane, which is available from Presperse, South Plainfield, NJ, USA under the trade name Permethyl 101A. Another example of a preferred volatile hydrocarbon is a C12 to C14 isoparaffin, which is available from Exxon, Baytown, Tex., USA under the trade name Isopar M. In one embodiment, the hydrocarbon is a C9-12 alkane. An example is SilSense from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM Bio 5 emollient. When used, volatile hydrocarbons are preferably included in the formulations of the present invention at a concentration of from 0.1% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight.

[0165] Cosmetic or dermatological formulations may include cationic and amphoteric conditioning polymers. Examples include, but are not limited to, those listed in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary published by the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA), 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036. Typical examples include quaternary derivatives of cellulose ethers, quaternary derivatives of guar gum, homopolymers and copolymers of DADMAC, homopolymers and copolymers of MAPTAC, and quaternary derivatives of starch. Specific examples of CTFA names used include, but are not limited to, Polyquaternium-10, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Starch Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-4, Polyquaternium-5, Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-14, Polyquaternium-15, Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-28, Polyquaternium-32, Polyquaternium-33, Polyquaternium-36, Polyquaternium-37, Polyquaternium-39, Polyquaternium-45, Polyquaternium-47, and Polymethacrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride, Polyquaternium-55, and mixtures thereof. When used, the conditioning polymer is preferably included in the cosmetically acceptable compositions of the present invention at a concentration of 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.2% to 6%, and most preferably 0.2% to 5%.

[0166] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may contain one or more rheology modifiers. Rheology modifiers useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, high molecular weight cross-linked homopolymers of acrylic acid, and acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymers, such as and series, both available from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc.; anionic acrylate polymers such as AST and cationic acrylate polymers such as SC96, available from Ciba Specialties, High Point, NC, USA; Acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride / acrylamide dihydroxyethyl methacrylate copolymer, Steareth-10 Allyl Ether / Acrylates Copolymer; Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer (known as 28), available from Rohm and Haas / International Specialties, Wayne, NJ, USA; glyceryl polymethacrylate, acrylates / steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer; bentonite; gums such as alginates, carrageenan, gum arabic, gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth, guar gum; guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, xanthan gum, or gellan gum; cellulose derivatives such as sodium carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcarboxyethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcarboxypropylcellulose, ethylcellulose, sulfated cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose; agar; pectin; gelatin; starch and its derivatives; chitosan and its derivatives such as hydroxyethylchitosan; polyvinyl alcohol, PVM / MA copolymer, PVM / MA decadiene crosspolymer, poly(ethylene oxide)-based thickeners, sodium carbomer, and mixtures thereof. When used, rheology modifiers are preferably included in the formulations of the present invention at a concentration of 0.01 wt% to 12 wt%, preferably 0.05 wt% to 10 wt%, and most preferably 0.1 wt% to 6 wt%.

[0167] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may contain one or more antioxidants including, but not limited to, ascorbic acid, BHT, BHA, erythrosine, bisulfites, thioglycolates, tocopherol, sodium metabisulfite, vitamin E acetate, and ascorbyl palmitate. The antioxidant will be present in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight of the preparation, preferably 0.1% to 3% by weight, and most preferably 0.2% to 2% by weight.

[0168] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may contain one or more preservatives. Examples of preservatives include, but are not limited to, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane (methyldibromoglutaronitrile, also known as Ondeo Nalco Company, Naperville, 111., USA), benzyl alcohol, imidazolidinyl urea, 1,3-bis(hydroxymethyl)-5,5-dimethyl-2,3-imidazolidinedione (e.g., DMDM ​​hydantoin, known as Lonza, Fairlawn, NJ, USA), methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (e.g., Rohm & Haas Co., Philadelphia, Pa., USA), methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol and sodium benzoate, and mixtures thereof.

[0169] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may include any other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic preparations. Examples of such ingredients include, but are not limited to, buffers, perfume ingredients, chelating agents, pigments, color additives or dyes that can be used to color the composition itself or the keratin, sequestrants, emollients, foam boosters, foam stabilizers, sunscreens, sunscreens, peptizers, electrolytes such as aluminum chlorohydrate or alkali metal salts, or salts with organic acids.

[0170] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may contain water and any cosmetically acceptable solvent. Examples of acceptable solvents include, but are not limited to, monohydric alcohols such as alkanols having 1 to 8 carbon atoms (e.g., ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol), polyhydric alcohols such as alkylene glycols (e.g., glycerol, ethylene glycol, and propylene glycol), and glycol ethers such as mono-, di-, and tri-ethylene glycol monoalkyl ethers, e.g., ethylene glycol monomethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, used alone or in admixture. These solvents may be present in a proportion of up to 70% by weight, e.g., 0.1% to 70% by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition.

[0171] The cosmetic or skin pharmaceutical preparation of the present invention may include an agent that increases the transdermal absorption of the active ingredient, such as and not limited to dimethyl sulfoxide, dimethylacetamide, dimethylformamide, a surfactant, azone (1-dodecylazacycloheptane-2-one), alcohol, urea, ethoxydiglycol, acetone, propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol, etc. In addition, the cosmetic or skin pharmaceutical preparation of the present invention may be applied to a local area to be treated with iontophoresis, sonophoresis, electroporation, microelectric patches, mechanical pressure, osmotic pressure gradient, occlusive healing, microinjection or needle-free injection (such as injection by oxygen pressure) or any combination thereof to achieve greater penetration of the active ingredient. The application area will be determined by the nature of the condition, disorder and / or disease to be treated and / or cared for.

[0172] The cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may include additional active ingredients which may be present in solution or dispersion. Non-limiting examples include amino acids, peptides, proteins, hydrolyzed proteins, enzymes, hormones, vitamins, mineral salts, sugars, nucleotides, nucleic acids, molecules and extracts of biological and biotechnological origin, plant extracts, cell extracts, essential oils, molecules of synthetic or natural origin, isoflavones, polyphenols, retinol, hyaluronic acid and / or mixtures thereof. In particular, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations may contain dimethylmethoxychromanol, such as Lipochroman from Lipotec SA. TM molecular.

[0173] In particular, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparations according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the composition according to the invention, C9-12 alkanes and / or coco-caprylate / caprate.

[0174] In particular, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may contain, in addition to the composition according to the invention, C9-12 alkanes, cococaprylate / caprate, AlgaPūr TM High stability high oleic acid (HSHO) algal oil, jojoba seed oil, tocopheryl acetate, methyl glucose dioleate and / or mixtures thereof. Optionally, the formulation may contain a fragrance and / or an antioxidant. More particularly, the formulation contains C9-12 alkanes, coconut caprylate / caprate, AlgaPūr TM High stability high oleic acid (HSHO) algal oil, jojoba seed oil, tocopheryl acetate, and methyl glucose dioleate.

[0175] In particular, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may also contain, in addition to the composition according to the invention, C9-12 alkanes, coco-caprylate / caprate, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer and / or mixtures thereof. More particularly, the preparations may also contain a fragrance and / or a preservative.

[0176] In particular, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations of the present invention may also contain, in addition to the composition of the present invention, C9-12 alkanes, coco-caprylate / caprate, silica dimethyl silylate, dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate, methyl glucose dioleate, polyhydroxystearic acid, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, isododecane, disteardimonium hectorite, propylene carbonate, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, propylene glycol, glyceryl caprylate, magnesium sulfate, and sodium benzoate. More particularly, the preparations may also contain fragrances and / or preservatives.

[0177] In particular, the cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the composition according to the invention, caprylic / capric triglyceride, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, isostearyl isostearate and / or mixtures thereof. More particularly, the preparations may comprise caprylic / capric triglyceride, polyurethane-79, neopentyl glycol diethylhexanoate, isostearyl isostearate, silica, a wax and glyceryl caprylate. More particularly, the wax is carnauba wax, candelilla wax, bran wax and / or mixtures thereof.

[0178] In particular, the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparations according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the composition according to the invention, isododecane, isostearyl isostearate, microcrystalline cellulose, at least one C9-C12 alkane and / or mixtures thereof.

[0179] method

[0180] In one aspect, the present invention provides a method for dispersing a hydrophilic active ingredient in oil, the method comprising the steps of:

[0181] (i) dissolving a hydrophilic active ingredient in an aqueous solution; and

[0182] (ii) mixing the aqueous solution obtained in step i) with an oil system comprising a combination of methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-3 esters of fatty acids and an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate and ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0183] Specifically, the hydrophilic active ingredient may be dissolved in the aqueous solution at a concentration of 0.1 mg / mL to 100 mg / mL, or 1 mg / mL to 10 mg / mL, or 2.5 mg / mL to 7.5 mg / mL.

[0184] In particular, the aqueous solution consists essentially of water, or even consists of water. More particularly, the water is distilled water or purified water.

[0185] Specifically, the oil system (ii) is heated at 40°C to 70°C, particularly 50°C to 65°C, before being mixed with the aqueous solution containing the hydrophilic active ingredient of i).

[0186] Specifically, the aqueous solution containing the hydrophilic active ingredient of i) is slowly added to the top of the oil system (ii) under continuous mechanical stirring, and the resulting mixture is mixed under continuous mechanical stirring until the temperature is cooled to 20 to 25°C.

[0187] The polyglyceryl-3 ester may in particular be triglyceride laurate.

[0188] The ester oil may in particular be cetyl ethylhexanoate.

[0189] Therefore, in one embodiment, the present invention provides a method for dispersing a hydrophilic active ingredient in oil, the method comprising the steps of: (i) dissolving the hydrophilic active ingredient in an aqueous solution; (ii) mixing the aqueous solution obtained in step i) with an oil phase comprising a combination of methyl glucose sesquistearate, triglyceride laurate, and cetyl ethylhexanoate. More particularly, prior to mixing, the oil phase is heated at 40° C. to 70° C., preferably at 50° C. to 65° C.

[0190] application

[0191] The compositions described herein are useful for delivering hydrophilic active ingredients for treating the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes.The compositions are particularly useful for delivering hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredients.

[0192] Thus, in one aspect, the present invention provides a method for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject, comprising topically applying a cosmetically effective amount of a composition or cosmetic formulation according to the preceding aspects.

[0193] Non-limiting examples of cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatments and / or care in the context of the present invention include: treating and / or preventing skin aging, treating and / or preventing skin wrinkles; maintaining and improving skin firmness; stimulating collagen synthesis and / or preventing collagen loss; treating and / or preventing the appearance of skin sagging; reducing and / or preventing facial asymmetry; increasing the volume of adipose tissue; and / or preventing and / or mitigating the effects of adipose tissue loss; treating and / or preventing photoaging of the skin; promoting the self-renewal properties of the skin; regulating the skin microbiota; preventing and / or treating dandruff; maintaining and / or improving skin hydration and / or moisturizing; maintaining and / or improving skin microcirculation; maintaining and / or improving skin whitening and / or brightening; whitening the skin and / or reducing dark spots; treating and / or preventing skin fatigue; maintaining and / or improving the skin barrier function; maintaining and / or improving skin tone; and / or revitalizing the skin.

[0194] In particular, the method of cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care may be to treat and / or prevent skin aging; and / or reduce and / or prevent skin wrinkles.

[0195] The present invention also provides use of the composition according to the first aspect for cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject. In particular, the use is for treating and / or preventing skin aging; and / or reducing and / or preventing skin wrinkles.

[0196] Example

[0197] The present invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. These examples are for illustrative purposes only and should not be construed as limiting the invention as claimed herein.

[0198] Examples 1 to 5

[0199] Different compositions containing PEP-1 were prepared, comprising the ingredients listed in Table 2.

[0200] The procedure involves mixing two phases: an aqueous phase (Phase A) and an oil phase (Phase B). Phase A is a solution of the peptide in water. Phase B is Glucate from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM DO emulsifier and Algapur from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM Dispersion of High Stability High Oleic (HSHO) Algal Oil. Slowly add Phase A to Phase B with mixing.

[0201] The stability of the formulations was determined by visual inspection and quantification of the amount of active ingredient by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC).

[0202] - Visual inspection: The results were classified as OK or KO based on the physical appearance. OK means a clear solution at t=0 h with small particles at the bottom after 24 h. KO means a solution that was completely separated into phases, turbid or had an unacceptable precipitate at the bottom.

[0203] - Stability: After storing the composition at room temperature for 1 week, the peptide concentration was determined by HPLC. The composition was diluted 10 times in 1 g of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). Twenty-five microliters of the solution was then injected into Kromasil C-8, 5 μm., 250 x 4.6 mm column. Solvents used were: Solvent A, H2O / TFA and Solvent B, acetonitrile / TFA.

[0204] The separation gradient is:

[0205] Time (minutes) [Solvent B] (%) 0 5 30 35 32 100 42 100

[0206] The concentration of the peptide was determined by relating the sum of the peak areas corresponding to the unoxidized and oxidized peptide to the sum of the peak areas of a standard of the peptide.

[0207] The peptide recovery was calculated as:

[0208]

[0209] The theoretical concentration of the peptide in the composition was 0.05% by weight in Example 1 and 0.125% by weight in Examples 2 to 5.

[0210]

[0211] Table 2

[0212] In Examples 1, 4, and 5, the peptides could be dispersed in the oil, and the appearance was acceptable at time 0. However, the peptide concentration lost more than 20% within 1 week at room temperature, which is considered unacceptable. Therefore, the results demonstrate that the stability of the peptides in the oil is compromised.

[0213] Examples 6 to 11

[0214] Examples 6 to 11 shown in Table 3a and Table 3b were prepared to investigate the effect of emulsifiers on the stability of the compositions. Compositions that were visually stable after 24 hours were stored at different temperatures for 3 months to determine long term stability.

[0215] The method of preparing the composition comprises mixing a phase consisting of two phases: an aqueous phase (Phase A) and an oil phase (Phase B). Phase A is a solution of the peptide in water. Phase B is Schercemol from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM CO ester, emulsifier (Glucate from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM SS, Glucamate TM SSE-20 or Glucate TM DO) and Hydramol from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc. TM Dispersion of TGL ester. Heat phase B to 50°C to 65°C and cool. At room temperature, slowly add phase A to phase B with mixing.

[0216]

[0217] Table 3a

[0218]

[0219]

[0220] Table 3b

[0221] Glucate was tested at concentrations of 0% to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. TM SS emulsifier (Examples 6 to 11). When used at 0%, 0.5% and 3%, unacceptable precipitation was observed at the bottom, however at concentrations of 1% to 2%, the composition was stable.

[0222] When using 1 wt% Glucamate TM SSE-20 emulsifier (Example 12) or 1 wt% Glucate TM When the same compositions were tested with the DO emulsifier (Example 13), unacceptable precipitation was observed in both compositions.

[0223] 1 wt% Glucate by HPLC analysis TM A sample of SS emulsifier (Example 8) was added, and after 3 months of stability, almost all the peptide concentration was recovered (Table 4).

[0224]

[0225]

[0226] Table 4

[0227] Examples 14 to 18

[0228] Different compositions as shown in Table 5 were prepared to evaluate the effect of the solubilizer in the oil phase on the stability of the composition.

[0229] Hydramol was tested at concentrations of 5% to 15% by weight TM TGL esters (Examples 14 to 17). Unacceptable precipitation was observed at the bottom when used at 5%, 8% and 15%, however at concentrations of 10% to 12%, the composition was stable.

[0230] When the same composition was tested using 10% of Plurol Diisostearique CG from Gattefossé (Example 18), unacceptable precipitation was observed.

[0231]

[0232] Table 5

[0233] Examples 19 to 22

[0234] Different compositions were prepared in order to determine the effect of the amount of water in the composition.

[0235] Water concentrations ranging from 2% to 7% by weight were tested. Unacceptable precipitation was observed at the bottom when used at 2% by weight (Example 19) and 7% by weight (Example 22).

[0236] However, at concentrations of 2.5% to 5% by weight, the composition is stable.

[0237]

[0238] Table 6

[0239] Examples 23 to 25

[0240] Different compositions were prepared to determine the relevance of the ester oils (Table 7).

[0241] Isopropyl isostearate and ethylhexyl palmitate were tested at 86.375 wt % (Example 23 and Example 24, respectively). Some particles were observed at the bottom after 24 hours. Diisopropyl adipate was tested at 86.375 wt % (Example 25) as a solvent, and unacceptable precipitation was observed immediately after mixing.

[0242]

[0243]

[0244] Table 7

[0245] Examples 26 to 28

[0246] Different peptides with known cosmetic properties were tested using the ingredients at previously determined optimal concentrations.

[0247] PEP-2, PEP-8, and PEP-9 (Example 26, Example 27, Example 28, respectively) had good compatibility and resulted in compositions with acceptable physical appearance.

[0248]

[0249] Table 8

[0250] Example 29

[0251] An oil serum comprising the composition of Example 8 was prepared, comprising the following ingredients.

[0252]

[0253] Table 9

[0254] Example 30

[0255] A cosmetic cream foundation comprising the composition of Example 8 was prepared, comprising the following ingredients.

[0256]

[0257]

[0258]

[0259] Table 10

[0260] Example 31

[0261] A facial serum bar comprising the composition of Example 8 was prepared, comprising the following ingredients.

[0262]

[0263]

[0264] Table 11

[0265] Example 32

[0266] Prepare a powdered cream mousse containing the following ingredients:

[0267]

[0268]

[0269] Table 12

[0270] Example 33

[0271] Prepare a two-phase serum containing the following ingredients.

[0272]

[0273]

[0274] Table 13

[0275] The present invention can be further described by the following numbered clauses:

[0276] 1. A composition comprising:

[0277] i) 2% to 5% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient;

[0278] ii) 1 to 2 wt% of methyl glucose sesquistearate;

[0279] iii) 10 to 12 wt% of polyglycerol-3 esters of fatty acids;

[0280] iv) at least 83% by weight of an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and ethylhexyl palmitate; and

[0281] wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and

[0282] The sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

[0283] 2. The composition according to clause 1, wherein the polyglyceryl-3 ester of fatty acids is triglyceride of laurate.

[0284] 3. A composition according to clause 1 or 2, wherein the ester oil is cetyl ethylhexanoate.

[0285] 4. A composition according to any of the preceding clauses, wherein the active ingredient is a cosmetic active ingredient.

[0286] 5. The composition according to any of the preceding clauses, wherein the active ingredient is a peptide, a plant extract or an ingredient obtained from a biotechnological process.

[0287] 6. The composition according to clause 5, wherein the peptide is selected from the group consisting of a tripeptide, a tetrapeptide, a pentapeptide, a hexapeptide, a heptapeptide, an octapeptide and a nonapeptide.

[0288] 7. The composition according to clause 6, wherein the peptide is one or more peptides selected from the group consisting of:

[0289] R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2 (SEQ ID. 1);

[0290] R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-Asp-R2 (SEQ ID. 2);

[0291] R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-R2 (SEQ ID.3);

[0292] R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.4);

[0293] R1-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.5);

[0294] R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.6);

[0295] R1-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.7);

[0296] R1-Phe-Trp-Met-Lys-Arg-Lys-Arg-Val-Pro-R2 (SEQ.ID.8);

[0297] R1-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-R2 (SEQ. ID. 9); and

[0298] R1-Leu-Pro-Val-Thr-R2 (SEQ.ID.10).

[0299] wherein R1 is selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from the group consisting of: C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 24 Alkenyl, C3-C 24 Cycloalkyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of: H and C1-C 16 alkyl.

[0300] 8. The composition according to any one of clauses 6 to 7, wherein the peptide is one or more peptides selected from the group consisting of:

[0301] Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2(PEP-1);

[0302] Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-Asp-NH2(PEP-2);

[0303] Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-NH2(PEP-3);

[0304] Ac-Arg-Arg-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-4);

[0305] Ac-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-5);

[0306] Ac-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-6);

[0307] Ac-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-7);

[0308] H-Phe-Trp-Met-Lys-Arg-Lys-Arg-Val-Pro-NH2(PEP-8);

[0309] H-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-OH (PEP-9); and

[0310] H-Leu-Pro-Val-Thr-OH (PEP-10).

[0311] 9. A composition according to clause 8, wherein the peptide is Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2, Ac-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2 or H-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-OH.

[0312] 10. The composition according to clause 9, wherein the peptide is Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2.

[0313] 11. The composition according to any of the preceding clauses, wherein the amount of the aqueous solution i) is 2% to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0314] 12. The composition according to any of the preceding clauses, wherein the amount of the aqueous solution i) is from 2% to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0315] 13. The composition of any of the preceding clauses, wherein the amount of methyl glucose sesquistearate is from 1 wt% to 1.5 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0316] 14. The composition of any of the preceding clauses, wherein the amount of the active ingredient is 0.01 wt% to 0.5 wt%, or 0.05 wt% to 0.25 wt%, or 0.1 wt% to 0.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0317] 15. A method for dispersing a hydrophilic active ingredient in oil, the method comprising the steps of:

[0318] (i) dissolving a hydrophilic active ingredient in an aqueous solution; and

[0319] (ii) mixing the aqueous solution obtained in step i) with an oil system comprising a combination of methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-3 esters of fatty acids and an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate and ethylhexyl palmitate.

[0320] 16. The process according to clause 15, wherein the oil phase is heated at 50°C to 65°C prior to mixing.

[0321] 17. The method according to clause 15 or 16, wherein the active ingredient is a peptide.

[0322] 18. The method according to any one of clauses 15 to 17, wherein the polyglyceryl-3 ester of fatty acids is trilaurin.

[0323] 19. The method of any one of clauses 15 to 18, wherein the ester oil is cetyl ethylhexanoate.

[0324] 20. The method according to any one of clauses 15 to 19, wherein the active ingredient is dissolved in water.

[0325] 21. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical formulation comprising a composition according to any one of clauses 1 to 14, together with at least one cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically acceptable excipient or adjuvant.

[0326] 22. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparation according to item 21, wherein the concentration of the composition according to items 1 to 14 is in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.004 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparation.

[0327] 23. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical formulation according to clause 21 or clause 22, wherein the formulation is in the form of a cream, a multiple emulsion, a foundation, a solution, an anhydrous formulation, a dispersion, an oil, a milk, a balm, a lotion, a gel, a cream-gel, a liniment, a conditioner, a serum, a stick, an ointment, a mousse, a pomade, a powder, a rod, a pen, a spray, an aerosol or a mask.

[0328] 24. The cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical formulation according to any one of clauses 21 or 22, wherein the formulation is incorporated into a fabric or a device.

[0329] 25. A method of cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject, said method comprising topically applying a cosmetically effective amount of a composition according to any one of clauses 1 to 14 or a cosmetic formulation according to any one of clauses 21 to 24.

[0330] 26. The method according to clause 25, wherein the cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care is: treating and / or preventing skin aging; reducing and / or preventing skin wrinkles.

[0331] 27. Use of a composition according to any one of clauses 1 to 14 for the cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of the subject.

Claims

1. A composition comprising: i) 2% to 5% by weight of an aqueous solution containing a hydrophilic active ingredient; ii) 1 to 2 wt% of methyl glucose sesquistearate; iii) 10 to 12 wt% of polyglycerol-3 esters of fatty acids; iv) at least 83% by weight of an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate, and ethylhexyl palmitate; and wherein all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the composition; and The sum of i), ii), iii) and iv) does not exceed 100% by weight.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyglyceryl-3 ester of fatty acids is triglyceride of laurate.

3. A composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the ester oil is cetyl ethylhexanoate.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the active ingredient is a cosmetic active ingredient.

5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the active ingredient is a peptide.

6. The composition according to claim 5, wherein the peptide is one or more peptides selected from the group consisting of: R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-R2 (SEQ ID. 1); R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-Asp-R2 (SEQ ID. 2); R1-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-R2 (SEQ ID.3); R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.4); R1-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.5); R1-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.6); R1-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-R2 (SEQ ID.7); R1-Phe-Trp-Met-Lys-Arg-Lys-Arg-Val-Pro-R2 (SEQ.ID.8); R1-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-R2 (SEQ. ID. 9); and R1-Leu-Pro-Val-Thr-R2 (SEQ.ID.10); wherein R1 is selected from the group consisting of: H and R5-CO-, wherein R5 is selected from the group consisting of: C1-C 18 Alkyl, C2-C 24 Alkenyl, C3-C 24 Cycloalkyl; and R2 is -NR3R4 or -OR3, wherein R3 and R4 are independently selected from the group consisting of: H and C1-C 16 alkyl.

7. The composition according to any one of claims 5 or 6, wherein the one or more peptides are selected from the group consisting of: Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-NH2(PEP-1); Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-Asp-NH2(PEP-2); Ac-Glu-Glu-Met-Gln-Arg-Arg-Ala-NH2(PEP-3); Ac-Arg-Arg-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-4); Ac-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-5); Ac-Arg-Arg-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-6); Ac-Arg-Arg-D-Gln-D-Met-Glu-Glu-NH2(PEP-7); H-Phe-Trp-Met-Lys-Arg-Lys-Arg-Val-Pro-NH2(PEP-8); H-Tyr-D-Ala-Gly-Phe-Leu-OH (PEP-9); and H-Leu-Pro-Val-Thr-OH (PEP-10).

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of the aqueous solution i) is 2% to 3% by weight, preferably 2% to 2.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of methyl glucose sesquistearate is 1 wt% to 1.5 wt% based on the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein the amount of the active ingredient is 0.01 to 0.5 wt%, or 0.05 to 0.25 wt%, or 0.1 to 0.2 wt%, based on the total weight of the composition.

11. A method for dispersing a hydrophilic active ingredient in oil, the method comprising the steps of: (i) dissolving a hydrophilic active ingredient in an aqueous solution; and (ii) mixing the aqueous solution obtained in step i) with an oil system comprising a combination of methyl glucose sesquistearate, polyglyceryl-3 esters of fatty acids and an ester oil selected from the group consisting of cetyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl isostearate and ethylhexyl palmitate.

12. A cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical preparation comprising a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, together with at least one cosmetically or dermopharmaceutically acceptable excipient or adjuvant.

13. The cosmetic or dermatological preparation according to claim 12, wherein the concentration of the composition according to claims 1 to 10 is in an amount of 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.004 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological preparation.

14. A method of cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject, said method comprising topically applying a cosmetically effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 or a cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 12 or 13.

15. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10 for the cosmetic, non-therapeutic treatment and / or care of the skin, hair, nails and / or mucous membranes of a subject.

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