Timepiece component and method for manufacturing a timepiece component

Abstract

Timepiece component (10; 10*), in particular a bracelet portion, characterized in that it comprises a substrate (1; 1*) made of polymer material comprising reliefs (111; 111*) and at least in part a deposit of material (4; 41*, 42*), and in that all or part of the reliefs (111; 111*) is covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*).

Description

[0001] Method of manufacturing a watch component and watch component obtained by such a method

[0002] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a watch or jewelry component. It also relates to a watch component as such, in particular a bracelet strand, more particularly a bracelet strand made of polymer, such as an elastomer, obtained by such a method.

[0003] It is common in watchmaking to form a bracelet strand from a polymer material, particularly elastomer. It is desirable to be able to form a surface of such a bracelet strand with a chosen, particularly attractive appearance.

[0004] To achieve such a result, it is known to manufacture a bracelet strand using a steel metal mold whose geometry directly forms a predefined texture on the bracelet strand. Such an approach has the first disadvantage of a lack of versatility, since changing the appearance of the bracelet requires changing the mold. Such a solution is therefore not suitable for the manufacture of small series. It also has the second disadvantage of not allowing the production of any texture, or with insufficient precision and / or non-optimal visibility. Finally, the production of a textured surface on the mold is often complex and delicate, and such a surface cannot be repaired in the event of alteration, which represents a third disadvantage of this solution.

[0005] Another complementary approach consists of modifying the appearance of the surface of the bracelet strand after it has left a mold, by one or more additional finishing steps, for example by a calendering step. Such an approach also complicates the process by adding one or more additional steps. In addition, it does not allow all types of textures to be formed. Thus, the object of the present invention is to improve the known methods of manufacturing a watchmaking or jewelry component, and in particular to achieve all or part of the following objects.

[0006] The first object of the invention is to be able to manufacture a watch or jewelry component having a defined technical functionality, and / or an attractive aesthetic appearance, in particular having a structured surface that is at least partially protected.

[0007] The second object of the invention is to be able to manufacture a watch or jewelry component comprising a structured surface of complex shape.

[0008] The third object of the invention is to be able to manufacture a watch or jewelry component comprising a structured surface suitable for small production runs, in particular with the aim of being able to easily change the pattern of the structured surface of the watch component to be manufactured.

[0009] To this end, the invention is based on a method of manufacturing a watch component, characterized in that it comprises the following steps:

[0010] Form reliefs on a polymer substrate of the watch component;

[0011] Depositing material on at least a portion of said substrate;

[0012] Apply a transparent or translucent protective layer to all or part of the reliefs and / or the material deposit.

[0013] The invention also relates to a watch component made of polymer material or predominantly of polymer, in particular a bracelet strand, characterized in that it comprises a substrate made of polymer material comprising reliefs and at least partly a deposit of material, and in that all or part of said reliefs is covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer.

[0014] The invention is more particularly defined by the claims. These objects, characteristics and advantages of the present invention will be explained in detail in the following description of particular embodiments made without limitation in relation to the attached figures among which:

[0015] Figures 1a to 1c represent the steps of a first phase of manufacturing a structured insert according to a first variant of a first embodiment of the invention.

[0016] Figures 2a to 2d represent sectional views of cavities formed in the surface of a model element according to examples of implementation of the first phase of the invention.

[0017] Figure 3 schematically represents the step according to Figure 1 b of the first phase of manufacturing a structured insert according to the first variant of the first embodiment of the invention.

[0018] Figure 4 schematically represents the step according to Figure 1 c of the first phase of manufacturing a structured insert according to the first variant of the first embodiment of the invention.

[0019] Figure 5 represents a model element used by the method according to the first variant of the first embodiment of the invention.

[0020] Figure 6 shows an enlarged view of the structured surface of the model element of Figure 5.

[0021] Figures 7 to 9 schematically represent the steps of a method of manufacturing a watch component according to a first embodiment of the invention.

[0022] Figures 10, 11 and 12 represent sectional views of a watch component according to different variants of a first embodiment of the invention. Figure 13 represents a top view of the watch component of Figure 10 according to a first embodiment of the invention.

[0023] Figures 14 and 15 schematically represent the steps of a method of manufacturing a watch component according to an example of a second variant of the first embodiment of the invention.

[0024] Figure 16 schematically represents a sectional view of a watch component according to a second embodiment of the invention.

[0025] Figure 17 schematically represents a sectional view of a watch component according to a variant of the second embodiment of the invention.

[0026] Figure 18 schematically represents the steps of the manufacturing process of a watch component according to the invention.

[0027] Embodiments of the invention will now be described in the context of the manufacture of a bracelet strand. The invention can naturally be used for the manufacture of another watch or jewelry component, for example a bezel disc or a dial.

[0028] According to a first variant of a first embodiment of the invention, the manufacturing method firstly comprises a first phase of manufacturing a structured insert, intended to be inserted into a mold for manufacturing a watch or jewelry component to form a structured surface of the watch component of which at least part of a substrate is manufactured in such a mold.

[0029] According to this first variant, the method for manufacturing a watch component therefore comprises a first phase of manufacturing a structured insert for a mold for manufacturing a watch component, represented schematically by Figure 1. The first phase comprises a first step consisting of providing E01 with a model element 99 comprising a structured surface 990 with a pattern to be reproduced. The pattern of the structured surface of this model element is called “master pattern”: it is an existing pattern that one wishes to reproduce identically, with very high precision, on a surface for example of a bracelet strand. The model element can also be called by its English name of “master”, is represented by way of examples by Figures 5 and 6.

[0030] A structured surface is understood to mean a surface which has reliefs, positive and / or negative, i.e. protruding or hollow relative to said surface. These reliefs form a master pattern of the structured surface. In addition, this structured surface may be flat or not, for example curved. As will emerge from the description below, the method according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to reproduce a wide variety of master patterns, including complex patterns and / or those involving very small dimensions, in particular micrometric or even nanometric. Naturally, the invention does not relate to the master pattern as such, which may be any.

[0031] For example, the master pattern may be a natural pattern, such as that present on the surface of animal skin, leather, alligator skin, bark, a leaf, microcrystals, in particular silicon carbide crystals or ruthenium crystals, etc. Alternatively, it may be non-natural, artificial, and produced on a substrate, natural or not, by any known technique such as traditional machining, laser engraving, etc. It may for example be formed by a textured metal by abrasion, in particular by forming a sunburst or any other form of satin finishing, by traditional engraving, by laser or by electrochemistry, or by a wafer having electroformed decorations obtained by deposition of a metal in the cavities of a photopolymerized photosensitive resin, or by a surface of a silicon wafer, or by a weaving of fibers, etc.More generally, the master pattern, in the case where it is non-natural or artificial, can be obtained by any known technique. The master pattern can be manufactured on a substrate, the master pattern and the substrate forming the model element. Alternatively, the master pattern can be obtained during the manufacture of the model element. For example, the model element and / or the master pattern can be obtained by additive manufacturing or 3D printing. Such a method of manufacturing the model element and / or the master pattern has the advantage of quickly creating varied and complex decorations from a very versatile material.

[0032] As mentioned above, the master pattern may be complex. For example, it may comprise hollow portions forming cavities of complex shape, in particular having an opening narrower than its width or more widely comprising a lower section parallel to the structured surface of greater area than another parallel section superimposed above the lower section, i.e. having a shape such that it presents a bottleneck during demolding of the cavity.

[0033] Figures 2a to 2d illustrate examples of complex cavities seen in section, in a plane perpendicular to the structured surface 990 of a model element, which structured surface 990 thus comprises at least one such complex cavity 992, or even a multitude of complex cavities, identical or different. Such a complex cavity 992 comprises an opening 993 opening onto the structured surface 990, then extends into the depth of the model element. This complex cavity 992 comprises at least one section, as shown in these figures, such that the greatest width L of this section in a plane parallel to the structured surface 990 is greater than the width I of the opening 993.More generally, a complex cavity may comprise a first section parallel to the structured surface 990 of the model element with a larger area than a second superimposed parallel section positioned above this first parallel section, i.e. closer to the opening 993. The specificity of these cavity shapes comes from the fact that they induce complexity in a demolding step of an injection process, which comprises the injection of a material within such a cavity, since the cavity comprises a narrow section forming a bottleneck during the removal of the solidified injected material.

[0034] Complexity can also come from a very large number of reliefs, protruding and / or hollow, which can be juxtaposed or intersect.

[0035] Finally, the complexity may arise from the resolution of the master pattern, which may involve very small dimensions. For example, the structured surface 990 of the model element may comprise at least one relief of height, measured in the direction perpendicular to the structured surface 990, between 1 nm and 2 mm, or even between 1 nm and 500 pm, or even between 1 nm and 10 pm, or even between 1 nm and 10 nm. Thus, the structured surface 990 of the model element may comprise at least one millimeter relief or at least one micrometer relief or at least one nanometer relief, or a combination of millimeter reliefs and / or micrometer reliefs and / or nanometer reliefs.

[0036] Since the invention allows the reproduction of complex patterns, it has the advantage of being compatible with the reproduction of very varied textures. It naturally remains compatible with any texture other than the illustrated examples, and can also be implemented to reproduce simple textures.

[0037] The first phase of the method then comprises a second step consisting of covering E02 said structured surface of the model element 99 with a molding resin, as represented by figures 1 b and 3, capable of reproducing a negative pattern of said master pattern of the model element, after solidification of the molding resin, to obtain a structured insert 24.

[0038] Advantageously, the molding resin has a viscosity before solidification at room temperature and pressure of between 0.5 and 70,000 Pa.s. -1 , or even between 0.5 and 30000 Pa.s -1 , or even between 0.5 and 1000 Pa.s -1. Such a choice favors its infiltration into cavities, including complex cavities, of the structured surface of the model element 99. It thus penetrates into the smallest corners of the structured surface of the model element 99, to reproduce with very high precision the shape of this structured surface. By solidifying, all the details of the surface on which the molding resin has been applied are reproduced very precisely. The precision of the reproduction can be of the order of a micrometer, or even of the order of a nanometer.

[0039] For example, the molding resin comprises polyurethane, latex, acrylic resin, fluoroelastomer such as FKM, PDMS (PolyDimethylSiloxane), epoxy resin, or two-component silicone, in particular two-component addition-vulcanizing silicone, in particular from the vinyl-polydimethyl-siloxane family, or in particular comprising vinyl, silicic acid and aggregating materials. The molding resin may further comprise one or more additives chosen from an adjuvant, an aggregating material, and a colorant.

[0040] Alternatively, a more viscous resin, or even a pasty or solid material, such as raw fluorocarbon rubber (FKM), can also be used. In such a case, significant pressure will advantageously be applied to this resin to allow it to infiltrate all the reliefs, particularly the cavities, of the model element. A compromise will be sought to define the pressure applied to achieve precise reproduction of the master pattern without damaging the model element.

[0041] After solidification, the molding resin forms a structured insert 24. Preferably, this structured insert 24 is flexible. In particular, its flexibility is suitable for its demolding from the model element 99, in particular in the case where this model element comprises a pattern with complex cavities. Advantageously, the molding resin has little or no shrinkage, in order to faithfully reproduce and preserve the characteristics of the pattern to be reproduced. For example, the shrinkage is less than or equal to 2%. o , or even less than or equal to 1% o The casting resin is chosen so that, once solidified, it achieves a flexibility compatible with the extraction stress, calculated using the following formula:

[0042] = Extraction Constraint (in %)

[0043] The higher the extraction stress, the more flexible and elastic the casting resin must be so that the resulting structured insert can be removed without degradation, while retaining the entire texture to be replicated. In other words, the casting resin is chosen so as to form a structured insert 24 which can be separated from the model element without deterioration of the model element or the structured insert.

[0044] Preferably, the solidification of the casting resin, at the end of which the impression of the master pattern is considered to be made, corresponds to its polymerization. It comprises two stages: the setting of the resin, after which the resin is dry to the touch, then the curing of the resin, after which the final mechanical properties of the resin are achieved.

[0045] The polymerization kinetics of the casting resin for impression taking is generally rapid. In particular, the polymerization time at room temperature can be between 1 and 30 minutes, preferably between 1 and 15 minutes. For example, in the specific case of using two-component silicone, the setting time at room temperature (20°C) is between 15 and 90 seconds. The curing time is between 1 and 10 minutes. Thus, the choice of this silicone as a casting resin is particularly advantageous: its solidification time is short and this silicone can be used with a very simple installation.

[0046] The method then comprises a third step consisting of separating E03 the structured insert 24 from the model element 99, as represented by figures 1 c and 4, this structured insert 24 comprising a structured surface 240 reproducing the master pattern in negative. As mentioned previously, the solidified molding resin retains a flexibility which allows easy demolding of the model element 99, without deterioration of the pattern of the structured surface 240. The structured insert 24 thus comprises a structured surface 240, which corresponds to the identical negative reproduction of the structured surface 990 of the model element 99.

[0047] Beforehand, the model element is preferably cleaned before applying the molding resin to present a receiving surface, comprising the structured surface to be reproduced, perfectly clean at the time of applying the molding resin. Optionally, this surface can also be coated with a mold release agent. Thus, the separation of the structured insert 24 from the model element 99 is facilitated, the structured insert being easily detached, without adhering to the model element. The molding resin therefore leaves no residue on the surfaces of the model element, and retains an intact structured surface, not damaged by possible tearing, perfectly reproducing the structured surface of the model element.

[0048] Advantageously, the structured insert is resistant to compression while remaining quite flexible, which results in a hardness of between 20 and 90 Shore A, or even between 20 and 40 Shore A or between 50 and 70 Shore A or between 80 and 90 Shore A. As stated above, this resistance, combined with the flexibility of the insert, is adapted to the model element used.

[0049] In addition, the structured insert 24 obtained is sufficiently flexible to be able to conform to the possibly non-planar shape of the surface of the mold on which it is intended to be positioned, as will be detailed later. For this, the apparent modulus of the structured insert 240 for a deformation of 100% is advantageously less than 300 MPa, or even less than 50 MPa, or even less than 10 MPa. On the other hand, the tear resistance without notching according to the ISO 34-1 B(a) standard of the structured insert 24 is preferably greater than or equal to 5, or even greater than 10. According to an advantageous embodiment, after this step of demolding the molding resin, the structured insert 24 is directly obtained. Optionally, the method comprises an additional step of cutting the molding resin separated from the model element to form the structured insert in its final format.Naturally, according to an advantageous embodiment, the structured insert 24 can be manufactured in the first phase according to a resting shape (corresponding to that of the model element) which corresponds to that of the mold housing, so that it will be perfectly adapted to this housing without need (or little) to deform it.

[0050] Furthermore, the method may comprise an optional additional step of depositing a coating of a release agent on the structured insert 24, in particular by coating, by chemical vapor deposition (CVD), by physical vapor deposition (PVD), by atomic layer deposition (ALD), by sol-gel deposition, by SAM (Self Assembled Monolayer) deposition, or by depositing a fluorinated coating on the structured insert, for example made of a material among polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), fluorinated ethylene propylene (FEP), or perfluoroalkoxy (PFA).

[0051] According to a first alternative of the first phase described above, the structured insert 24 can be manufactured differently, in a simplified manner, for example independently of any model element. The advantage of the approach using a model element is to allow a very precise and realistic production, but the invention is naturally not limited to such an approach. Thus, the structured insert 24 can comprise any pattern, for example be manufactured by electroforming, by electroerosion, or even by additive manufacturing or 3D printing.

[0052] According to a second alternative, the structured pattern can be manufactured directly on a half-impression of the manufacturing mold which will be described, in which case the method no longer comprises the first phase of manufacturing an insert, but a first phase of manufacturing a structured surface 240 directly on a surface of the manufacturing mold.

[0053] The method of manufacturing a watch component then comprises a second phase of manufacturing a watch component as such, represented by figures 7 to 9, which uses the structured insert 24 manufactured by the first phase described above, or even at least one structured surface 240, which has the function of forming reliefs on a surface of a watch component, as will be detailed below.

[0054] According to this first variant of the first embodiment of the invention, the second phase of manufacturing the watch component as such comprises the following steps.

[0055] One step consists of depositing a material 4 on the structured surface 240 of the structured insert 24 or of a half-impression 22 of a manufacturing mold 20, by means of a deposition of material 4 on the positive or projecting reliefs of the structured surface 240, as represented by figures 7 and 8.

[0056] According to this embodiment, the material 4 comprises pigments representing a particular color, in particular a different color, or even substantially different, from that which will form a substrate 1 of the watch component, as will be detailed later. The material 4 can also generate any visual or functional effect, in addition to or replacing a coloring, such as for example a metallic, pearly, or glittery effect. The material 4 can also be phosphorescent or fluorescent. Furthermore, the material 4 is not necessarily visible to the naked eye.

[0057] This material 4 may for example be in the form of a paint, a lacquer, a varnish, or a composite, in particular a luminescent composite, capable of withstanding the temperatures occurring in the subsequent injection and / or compression steps. The material 4 may for example be applied by roller to the projections of the structured surface 240 or by any other technique known to those skilled in the art such as printing, screen printing, or decalcomania.

[0058] In the embodiments using a structured insert 24, the method implements a step consisting of positioning the structured insert 24 whose structured surface 240 comprises the deposition of material 4 within a cavity 21 of a mold 20 used for the manufacture of the blank 1 a of a substrate 1 of the watch component, in particular on a first half-impression 22 delimiting said cavity 21 in collaboration with a second half-impression 23, as represented by FIG. 8. In this step consisting of positioning the structured insert 24 in a mold 20 of a watch component, said mold 20 is advantageously metallic, for example made of steel. Advantageously, this positioning is carried out by simple insertion into a housing provided for this purpose in the mold 20, in a sufficiently adjusted manner to induce a retention of the structured insert 24. The latter is therefore advantageously retained in the mold without gluing or fixing.This mold housing has a shape and thickness corresponding to those of the structured insert.

[0059] The structured insert 24 can have any shape, and occupy all or part of the surface of the mold 20, in particular a half-cavity. In addition, it has sufficient flexibility to perfectly match the shape of the housing intended to receive it, without leaving gaps. Its material also allows it not to adhere to the mold. It can thus be easily removed, without the need to add a release agent to the surface of the mold.

[0060] The method then comprises a step of filling the cavity 21 of the mold with a material of the component, to form a blank 1 a of the substrate 1 of the watch component, as shown in FIG. 9. This may be an injection molding or compression molding step. In the first case, the material is in the form of a pasty or fluid raw material which is injected into the cavity 21 of the mold 20 at a predetermined pressure (typically between 80 bar and 150 bar, or even between 80 bar and 90 bar), while the mold is already closed and has a given temperature (typically between 100°C and 200°C). In the second case, a preform or a raw blank is positioned on a mold part before closing the mold, then is compressed at a given temperature (typically between 100°C and 200°C). This mold filling includes filling the negative pattern of the structured surface 240.Then the component material is partially cooled and solidified.

[0061] At the end of this step, the blank 1 a comprises a pattern 1 1 1 a which is the identical reproduction of the pattern of the structured surface 240. In addition, the deposition of material 4 on the positive or projecting reliefs of the structured surface 240 has been transferred within the cavities 3a of the pattern 1 1 1 a of the blank 1 a of substrate 1 representing the cavities 3 of the pattern 1 1 1 of the substrate 1. This phenomenon can in particular be explained by the fact that the material 4 adheres to the blank 1 a during the crosslinking of the material of the component constituting it, a phenomenon which can be all the more facilitated if the material 4 adheres little to the insert 24.

[0062] The parameters of this step (duration, pressures, temperatures, etc.) are chosen in particular so as to obtain a blank 1 a whose material is not completely crosslinked and whose format does not yet correspond entirely to that of the substrate 1 in order to allow the implementation of the joining step described below. Thus, the pattern 1 11 a may not correspond identically to the pattern 1 1 1 which will be visible on the finalized watch component 10 as illustrated by figures 10, 1 1 and 12.

[0063] Advantageously, the material of the component is a polymer, in particular an elastomer or elastomer-based, i.e. comprising at least 50% by weight of elastomer. In particular, the elastomer material may be a fluoroelastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or a vinyl methylsilicone (VMQ) or a fluorosilicone (FVMQ). Alternatively, the material of the component is a polymer, thermoplastic or thermoset. Such a material has the particular advantage of facilitating the separation of the insert from the component without degrading the latter. The choice of the material of the component is such that it is adapted to a more or less complex specific shape of the watch component to be manufactured, the most complex shapes requiring the use of a component material with better mechanical properties than those of the insert 24.In this case, in particular, it is naturally possible to destroy the insert 24 when the blank 1 a is removed from the mold.

[0064] The watch component is thus advantageously flexible. In addition, it may have a non-planar shape at rest, induced by the shape of the manufacturing mold. This shape may be curved or arched, in particular concave or convex. Thus, the watch component may be curved or arched, in particular concave or convex. The watch component may be rigid at rest, that is to say, retain a predefined shape at rest, which may be advantageously modified by elastic deformation or by conformation, at room temperature or not, in particular in the case of a bracelet, due to the flexible material used.

[0065] As a note, the molding resin of the structured insert 24 is naturally chosen to be compatible with the conditions for filling the mold 20 with material from the blank 1 a. In particular, the structured insert 24 withstands the vulcanization conditions of the elastomer forming the blank 1 a or the watch component 10. For this, it withstands temperatures of 160°C, or even up to 180°C, or even up to 250°C, for at least 15 minutes and preferably for several hours. At these temperatures, the structured insert 24 also withstands pressures of between 80 bar and 150 bar, or even between 80 bar and 90 bar, without deformation. In addition, the structured insert 24 advantageously withstands, for example, several vulcanization cycles of an elastomer, of 5 to 15 minutes each. Similarly, material 4 resists the vulcanization conditions of the elastomer forming the watch component 10.The step of filling the mold 20 therefore advantageously comprises the casting, injection or compression of the component material, and makes it possible to form a watch component comprising a structured surface in one piece.

[0066] The method then comprises a step of removing the blank 1a of the watch component 10 from the mold 20.

[0067] Advantageously, in this removal step, the possible structured insert 24 remains secured to said blank 1 a, due to their nesting at the level of the structured surface, and the fact that there is no attachment of the structured insert to the manufacturing mold. In this case, the structured insert 24 fulfills a second function of temporary protection of the structured surface of the blank of the watch component, in particular to allow a sub-step of deburring or sandblasting at the exit of the mold. The method then comprises a step consisting of separating the blank of the watch component from the possible structured insert 24.

[0068] Alternatively, the structured insert 24 can be separated from the blank 1a during the step of removing said blank from the mold 20. This structured insert 24 can possibly be reused within the mold to manufacture a new blank and another identical watch component.

[0069] The filling step described above thus simultaneously implements the following two steps of the manufacturing process according to the invention:

[0070] - E1 formation of reliefs on a substrate of the watch component;

[0071] - Deposit E2 of material on at least part of said reliefs.

[0072] The method then implements a step consisting of securing E3 a transparent or translucent protective layer 2 on the blank 1a of the substrate 1 obtained by the preceding steps. For this, a blank 2a of the transparent or translucent protective layer 2 is used. This blank 2a comprises a material which is not completely crosslinked and / or which has dimensions which are not definitive. According to the embodiment, this step consisting of securing E3 compresses the blanks 1a and 2a against each other at predetermined pressures, temperatures, and durations so as to obtain the securing of the two blanks 1a, 2a.

[0073] Depending on the flexibility of the blank 2a and the pressure and temperature conditions, the joining between the two blanks 1a and 2a may be partial or total. The parts 1 and 2 of the component 10 may thus be joined only at the upper surface 110 of the substrate 1 and the lower surface 200 of the layer 2, as illustrated in FIG. 10. They may also advantageously be joined at the entire surface of the reliefs 111 and the lower surface 200 of the layer 2, as illustrated in FIGS. 11 and 12, in particular in a manner conforming to the reliefs 111 (FIG. 12).

[0074] Thus, step E3 makes it possible to obtain a watch component 10 comprising a second transparent or translucent protective layer 2 whose lower surface 200 is in contact with at least the upper surface 110 of the substrate 1.

[0075] As a remark, this method can advantageously be implemented from blanks 1a, 2a of the substrate 1 and the transparent or translucent protective layer 2 of large dimensions, which are then cut to the correct format after their joining, for example to form one or more strands of bracelet provided with a substrate 1 joined to a second transparent or translucent protective layer 2 from a single blank 1a.

[0076] Advantageously, the respective materials of the first and second blanks 1 a, 2 a, i.e. of the substrate 1 and of the transparent or translucent protective layer 2 of the watch component are compatible with each other, so that the two layers 1 , 2 adhere to each other independently of any additional means such as an adhesive. In particular, these materials may be polymers, which are selected so as to have the same chemical nature in order to promote crosslinking between them. Preferably, the selected polymers are part of the same chemical family, in particular that of fluoroelastomers. In other words, the materials of the first and second blanks 1 a, 2 a, or of the substrate 1 and of the transparent or translucent protective layer 2, comprise the same polymer matrix.

[0077] As detailed above, the use of a structured insert is not mandatory in this first variant of the first embodiment of the invention, but nevertheless represents an advantageous embodiment.

[0078] The structured insert can be single-use or used for the manufacture of a small number of watch components, for example up to 50 watch components.

[0079] According to a second variant of the first embodiment, the deposition of material 4 and possibly the production of reliefs are carried out after the step of injection or compression in a mold of the rough substrate of the watch component.

[0080] In a first example of implementation of this second variant, the method differs from the method according to the first variant by the fact that the material deposition step 4 is carried out after the structuring of a component blank in a mold. In this case, the blank with reliefs can be formed according to exactly the same steps as those described previously, without carrying out the material deposition step on the structured surface 240 of a structured insert 24 or directly on a surface of the mold 20.

[0081] In this first example, a watch component blank is therefore formed in a mold comprising a structured surface which is reproduced on a surface of the blank. This step makes it possible to carry out a first step E1 of forming reliefs on a substrate of the watch component. Then, in this first example, the step E2 of depositing material on at least part of the reliefs is carried out after removing the blank from the manufacturing mold. This step E2 of depositing material can be carried out with the same materials and same methods as those described previously, but with a direct application on the reliefs of the blank, and no longer on the structured surface of an insert or a half-impression of the mold with a view to being subsequently transferred to the insert during its shaping. This material can be deposited selectively on projections or recessed areas of said reliefs of said blank.

[0082] According to a second example of implementation of this second embodiment variant, the method comprises a simplified phase of preparation of a watch component substrate blank. This blank does not include any relief or material deposition. It can be formed by calendering (in the case of a raw material blank) or molding, the mold involved in the possible molding step then being simplified compared to the other variants and alternatives described by the fact that it does not include a structured surface. The use of a structured insert is therefore unnecessary. In addition, the surface of the mold is simplified since it does not have a structured surface. Alternatively, the substrate blank can be produced by any other method.

[0083] The method then comprises a first step E1 of forming reliefs on at least a portion of the blank 1 a of the watch component substrate. This first step E1 of forming reliefs may be a step of structuring the upper surface 1 10 a of the blank 1 a consisting of forming cavities 3 a using a laser, in particular a femtosecond pulse laser, the trajectory of which is defined so as to correspond to a pattern 11 1 a prefiguring the pattern 1 1 1 of the substrate 1 .

[0084] In a particular variant, the first step E1 of forming the reliefs may consist of affixing a plate 98a representing a mask or a stencil provided with cavities on or at a distance from an upper surface 1 10a of the substrate blank 1 a, as shown in FIG. 14. Then, the blank 1 a is etched, this etching producing cavities 3a forming reliefs according to a pattern 1 1 1 a through the plate 98a. Thus, cavities are also formed on the plate 98a at the level of the cavities 3a. In this particular variant, the mask or the stencil 98 thus formed may be kept for the implementation of the material deposition step E2, thus making it possible to locate the material deposition 4 within said cavities 3a, as illustrated in FIG. 15.

[0085] In this second example, the step E2 of depositing material on at least a portion of said surface having reliefs is carried out as in the first example.

[0086] Thus, in all the embodiments of this second embodiment variant, the step E2 of depositing material 4 consists of depositing at least one layer of material 4 by any technique known to those skilled in the art. This may be a step of applying a paint, a lacquer, a varnish or a composite, in particular a luminescent composite, by any technique known to those skilled in the art, such as a spraying technique or by means of a brush. Alternatively, it may be depositing a metal or metal alloy layer in the cavity 3a by any technique known to those skilled in the art, such as for example physical vapor deposition known as “PVD”, chemical vapor deposition known as “CVD” or atomic layer deposition known as “ALD”.Depending on the technique chosen for implementing this E2 material deposition step, a mask or stencil previously manufactured during the step can optionally be used.

[0087] According to an alternative embodiment, the step E2 of depositing material 4 may also consist of several deposits of different layers of material. For example, a first layer of metallic adhesion may first be deposited within the cavities 3a in order to allow improved retention of a layer of paint, varnish or lacquer within said cavities 3a. Finally, according to this second alternative embodiment, the step consisting of securing E3 a blank 2a of transparent or translucent protective layer 2 on the blank 1a of the substrate, obtained by the preceding steps, is then carried out. This is identical to that described previously for the first alternative embodiment.

[0088] According to a second embodiment, illustrated by figure 16, the method of manufacturing a watch component comprises the following steps:

[0089] - Provide a first 11 * layer of relief-free polymer from a 1 * substrate or a 1 * substrate blank;

[0090] - Deposit E2 at least one layer of material 41 *, 42* on the first layer 11 * and partially remove said material 41 *, 42*, so as to form E1 reliefs on said substrate 1 * by means of said deposition of material;

[0091] - Secure E3 a transparent or translucent protective layer 2* on said substrate 1*.

[0092] Thus, according to this second embodiment, the reliefs of the substrate are not formed separately from the addition of material, but the reliefs are formed by means of a deposition of material. In other words, the deposition of material here fulfills the dual function of modifying on the one hand the visual appearance, for example the color(s), of the surface of the component (relative to a component which would have the same reliefs but obtained without the added material), as in the first embodiment, and on the other hand of forming reliefs. On the other hand, unlike the first embodiment, the step E2 of depositing material is implemented before the step E1 of forming reliefs.

[0093] According to a first variant of this second embodiment, the material deposition step E2 comprises the joining by compression of at least one blank of a layer of material 41 *, 42 superimposed on the surface of a blank of a first layer 1 1 *. Figure 16 specifically illustrates a variant in which two layers 41 *, 42 * (or blanks of layers) are superimposed on the surface of a blank of a first layer 1 1 *. These three blanks can each be in the form of a preform or a raw blank. The parameters of this joining, in particular the duration, the pressures, temperatures, etc., are notably chosen so as to obtain an assembly resulting from the association of said three blanks, the material of each of the layers 1 1 *, 41 *, 42 * of which is not completely crosslinked and / or the dimensions of which are not definitive, in order to facilitate the implementation of the step of securing E3 of a transparent or translucent protective layer 2 *, as will be specified below.

[0094] The method then comprises a second step which consists in forming E1 reliefs on said surface of the assembly formed by the three superimposed layers 1 1 *, 41 *, 42 *. According to this second embodiment, cavities 3 * are formed in at least one of the surface layers 42 *, 41 *, using a laser, in particular a femtosecond pulse laser, the trajectory of which is defined so as to correspond to a predefined pattern 1 1 1 *. The depth of the cavities can vary so as to reveal the second layer 41 * or the first layer 1 1 *. This depth can totally or partially eliminate the third layer 42 * or the second layer 41 *, that is to say that the depth of the cavities can correspond to the thickness of the third layer 42 * or to the sum of the thicknesses of the third layer 42 * and the second layer 41 *.Alternatively, this depth is slightly less, so as not to completely remove one of the third layer 42* or second layer 41*, but still allowing the lower layer to be seen through the remaining part of the partially removed layer.

[0095] Advantageously, the substrate 1 * is thus in the form of a layer 1 1 * on which are deposited different layers 41 *, 42 * forming reliefs having different visual aspects, such as different colors. As for the watch component 10 resulting from the method according to the first embodiment, the watch component 10 * also comprises a second transparent or translucent protective layer 2 * whose lower surface 200 * is in contact with at least the upper surface 1 10 * of the upper layer of the substrate.

[0096] The method then comprises a step E3 of securing a transparent or translucent protective layer 2* onto the substrate 1* having the reliefs, obtained by the steps described above from the three layers 11*, 41*, 42* superimposed and assembled together. This step is carried out in the same way as in the case of the first embodiment, from a blank of transparent or translucent protective layer 2a*, in particular in a material which is not completely crosslinked, or which even has dimensions which are not definitive. This blank is compressed against the assembly obtained previously, under pressure and temperature conditions chosen to obtain good adhesion of this blank, which then finally forms an upper protective layer.

[0097] As for the watch component 10 resulting from the method according to the first embodiment, depending on the flexibility of the blank 2a* and the pressure and temperature conditions, the joining between the two parts 1* and 2* may be partial or total. The parts 1* and 2* may thus be joined only at the upper surface 110* of the upper layer of the substrate 1* and the lower surface 200* of the layer 2*. They may also advantageously be joined at the level of all the surfaces of the reliefs 111* and the lower surface 200* of the layer 2*, as in FIG. 16.

[0098] According to a second variant embodiment of this second embodiment, the two steps E1, E3 of the method can be reversed. Indeed, the step E3 of securing the transparent or translucent protective layer 2* can be carried out before the step E1 of forming reliefs. Indeed, the production of cavities 3* can be carried out by laser through the transparent or translucent protective layer 2*, in order to obtain the component 10*. According to a variant represented schematically by FIG. 17, the upper surface of the transparent or translucent protective layer may not be flat and / or continuous, but may for example have cavities, likewise forming a pattern for example conforming to the reliefs 1 1 1 *. Advantageously, such a pattern may correspond to all or part of a pattern formed by the deposition of material and / or by reliefs of the substrate.Such an embodiment can be implemented in all variants of all embodiments.

[0099] Naturally, the steps of the different variants and different embodiments described can be combined with each other to form other embodiment variants.

[0100] For example, the same watch component may comprise cavities colored by a deposit of material according to the first embodiment of the method and cavities at least partially passing through so as to reveal at least one other layer of the substrate according to the second embodiment of the method.

[0101] In any case, the manufacturing process of a watch component includes the following three steps, as illustrated in Figure 18, in an order which may vary, as described previously:

[0102] Form E1 reliefs on a polymer substrate of the watch component;

[0103] Depositing E2 material on at least a portion of said substrate;

[0104] Apply E3 a transparent or translucent protective layer over all or part of said reliefs and / or the deposit of material.

[0105] The invention also relates to a watch or jewelry component as such obtained by the method according to the invention. As mentioned, such a watch component may be a bracelet strand. By "bracelet strand", we mean in the context of this description a finished or semi-finished product. It may be a bracelet strand ready to be worn: in this case, the substrate of the strand is preferably intended to come into contact with the wearer's wrist. Alternatively, it may be a portion of bracelet strand representing the envelope of the bracelet strand, which may be intended for example to be attached to a framework such as a "tear-proof" strap. More generally, the watch component may be a finished or semi-finished product.

[0106] Alternatively, it can be any component of a wristwatch, such as a bezel disc that can be attached to a bezel ring or a dial that can be assembled within a watch case.

[0107] The watch component comprises a substrate made of polymer material comprising reliefs and at least partly a deposit of material, and in that all or part of said reliefs is covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer.

[0108] The thickness of the substrate is adapted to the watch component to be manufactured. It can be between 0.5 mm and 3 mm, whether it comprises one or more layers. The thickness of the transparent or translucent protective layer can be between 0.2 mm and 0.5 mm, or even between 0.2 mm and 0.3 mm. A substantial thickness, of the order of 0.5 mm, will be preferred for the second protective layer in order to reinforce or highlight the color of at least one layer of the substrate.

[0109] By "draft" we mean in the context of this description an element prefiguring a substrate or a layer whatever the stage of its manufacture.

[0110] According to the first embodiment described above, the substrate and its reliefs form a single-piece unit made of polymer material.

[0111] According to the second embodiment described above, the substrate is in the form of a relief-free layer, on which the deposit of material is deposited so as to form reliefs. According to the first embodiment, the deposit of material can be applied to only part of the area having the reliefs. Advantageously, it can be applied exclusively to projections of said reliefs or exclusively in cavities of said reliefs, in particular to areas of the same height of the reliefs. This latter approach makes it possible to highlight the reliefs, and to amplify them visually. For this reason, the deposit of material is in a material producing a particular visual effect, as mentioned above, for example a particular color, different from the rest of the substrate.

[0112] Advantageously, whatever the embodiment, the substrate may also comprise at least one zone without said deposit of material.

[0113] Furthermore, in particular in the first embodiment, it is also possible to color the projections complementary to the cavities of the reliefs, for example with a different material, having a different color, to emphasize the difference of these parts of the reliefs. In the case of the first variant of the first embodiment, only the cavities of the structured surface 240 could comprise a deposit of material 4 so as to color only the projections of the reliefs 1 1 1.

[0114] The deposit of material may be a deposit of metal or a metal alloy or a deposit of a paint, lacquer, varnish, or composite, in particular with a luminescent, phosphorescent or fluorescent material.

[0115] All or part of the substrate, in particular at least one layer, and / or said transparent or translucent protective layer are made of polymer material, for example thermoplastic or thermoset polymer, or polymer-based, i.e. comprising at least 50% by weight of polymer material, and therefore predominantly polymer, and advantageously of an elastomer or elastomer-based material, in particular a fluoroelastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or a vinyl methylsilicone (VMQ) or a fluorosilicone (FVMQ). Advantageously, the materials of the at least one layer of the substrate and of the transparent or translucent protective layer are compatible, so that they adhere to each other independently of any additional means such as an adhesive.In particular, the polymers of the at least one layer of the substrate and of the transparent or translucent protective layer opposite have the same chemical nature in order to promote crosslinking between them. Preferably, the selected polymers are part of the same chemical family, in particular that of fluoroelastomers. In other words, the chosen materials advantageously comprise the same polymer matrix.

[0116] The reliefs of the substrate may comprise all or part of the following characteristics: o at least one relief whose height, measured in the direction perpendicular to the watch component, is between 1 nm and 2 mm, or even between 1 nm and 500 pm, or even between 1 nm and 10 pm, or even between 1 nm and 10 nm; and / or o several reliefs which intersect, and / or o at least one cavity whose opening is narrower than its greatest width or comprising a lower section parallel to the structured surface with a larger area than another parallel section positioned above the lower section.

[0117] The invention does not relate to the reliefs as such. The pattern formed by the reliefs of the substrate may be of any type, and for example may include an aesthetic and / or functional marking.

[0118] Thus, the cavities 3; 3* of the reliefs can have any shape. They can comprise a V-shaped section, as shown in Figure 10 or a notched section (with flanks perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the surface of the watch component), as shown in Figures 15 and 16. They can naturally have much more complex shapes, in particular in the case where the pattern formed on the at least one first layer is obtained according to the first variant of the first embodiment, in particular from a model element. In addition, in the case of a multi-layer substrate, these cavities can be blind, that is to say that they do not completely pass through at least one surface layer of the substrate, just as they can be through or at least partially transparent so as, for example, to reveal other layers of the substrate.

[0119] The invention also relates to a wristwatch comprising at least one watch component as described above.

Claims

CLAIMS Watch component (10; 10*), in particular a bracelet strand, characterized in that it comprises a substrate (1; 1*) made of polymer material or based on polymer material comprising reliefs (111; 111*) and at least partly a deposit of material (4; 41*, 42*), and in that all or part of said reliefs (111; 111*) is covered by a transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*). Watch component according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said substrate (1) and its reliefs (111) form a single-piece unit made of polymer material, or in that said substrate (1*) is in the form of a layer (11*) without relief on which said deposit of material (41*, 42*) is deposited so as to form the reliefs (111*).Watch component according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said deposit of material (4) is applied to areas of the same height of the reliefs, in particular on projections of said reliefs or in cavities of said reliefs. Watch component according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said substrate (1; 1 *) comprises at least one area without said deposit of material. Watch component according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said deposit of material (4) is a deposit of metal or a metal alloy or a deposit of a paint, a lacquer, a varnish, or a composite, in particular with a luminescent, phosphorescent or fluorescent material.

6. Watch component according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said substrate (1; 1 *) and / or said transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) are made of an elastomer or elastomer-based material, in particular a fluoroelastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or a vinyl methylsilicone (VMQ) or a fluorosilicone (FVMQ).

7. A timepiece component according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said reliefs (1 1 1; 1 1 1 *) of the substrate comprise all or part of the following characteristics: o at least one relief whose height, measured in the direction perpendicular to the timepiece component (10; 10 *), is between 1 nm and 2 mm, or even between 1 nm and 500 pm, or even between 1 nm and 10 pm, or even between 1 nm and 10 nm; and / or o several reliefs which intersect, and / or o at least one cavity whose opening is narrower than its greatest width or comprising a lower section parallel to the structured surface with a larger area than another parallel section positioned above the lower section.

8. Method for manufacturing a watch component (10; 10*), characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - Forming (E1) reliefs on a substrate (1; 1 *) made of polymer material or based on polymer material of the watch component; - Depositing (E2) material (4; 41 *; 42 *) on at least part of said substrate (1; 1 *); - Secure (E3) a transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) on all or part of said reliefs and / or the deposit of material.

9. Method of manufacturing a watch component according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the step consisting of forming (E1) reliefs on a substrate (1) comprises molding a polymer substrate (1) in a mold (20) so as to form reliefs.

10. Method for manufacturing a watch component according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the step of depositing (E2) the material (4) comprises a deposit of material on reliefs of a surface of the mold (20) or of a structured insert (24) positioned in the mold so that the deposit of material (4) is transferred onto the substrate (1) during said molding of the substrate (1). 1 1 . Method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the step of molding a substrate (1) comprises the positioning of a structured insert (24) within a mold (20), so as to form reliefs of the substrate (1) from this structured insert, and in that it comprises the following steps for the manufacture of said structured insert (24): o Providing (E01) a model element (99) comprising a structured surface (990) with a pattern to be reproduced on a surface of a watch component; o Covering (E02) said structured surface (990) of the model element (99) with a molding resin capable of reproducing a negative pattern of said pattern of the structured surface, and allowing the molding resin to solidify to obtain a structured insert (24); o Separate (E03) the structured insert (24) from the model element (99), this structured insert (24) comprising a surface (240) comprising said negative pattern;o Optionally, cut the structured insert (24) to the format corresponding to at least part of the watch component (10) to be manufactured.; 12. Method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 8, characterized in that it firstly comprises the step of depositing (E2) material (41 *; 42*) on a layer (1 1 *) of a substrate (1 *), then in that that the step of forming (E1) reliefs on the substrate (1 *) consists of partially removing said material (41 *; 42*), so as to form reliefs of the substrate (1 *) by means of said deposition of material.

13. Method for manufacturing a watch component according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said deposited material (41 *; 42*) is made of polymer, in particular elastomer or elastomer-based, in particular a fluoroelastomer (FKM, FFKM or FEPM), or a natural rubber (NR) or synthetic rubber (SBR, HNBR, EPDM), or a vinyl methylsilicone (VMQ) or a fluorosilicone (FVMQ).

14. Method for manufacturing a watch component according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the step consisting of forming (E1) reliefs on the substrate (1 *) consists of partially removing said material (41 *; 42*) by means of a laser, in particular a femtosecond pulse laser.

15. Method for manufacturing a watch component according to one of claims 8 to 14, characterized in that the substrate (1; 1 *) and the transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) are in respective compatible polymer materials so that the step of securing the transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) induces direct adhesion of the transparent or translucent protective layer (2; 2*) to all or part of the substrate (1; 1 *) during the crosslinking of their respective materials.

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