Elastic fabric and manufacturing method for textile

Abstract

An elastic fabric and a manufacturing method therefor. TPU fibers are used as elastic fiber materials, the TPU fibers are processed into elastic yarns, and by means of structural designs of the elastic yarns and a textile, and in cooperating with textile dyeing and finishing processes for corresponding processing, the fabric having excellent elasticity and good hand feel is obtained. The warp-direction elastic elongation of a woven fabric can reach 35-70%, and the weft-direction elastic elongation thereof can reach 80-130%; the warp-direction elastic elongation of a knitted fabric can reach 180-250%, and the weft-direction elastic elongation thereof can reach 250-360%; the textile has low elastic modulus and low elastic recovery rate, and garments made from this textile deliver minimal wearing constriction; the surface of the textile can achieve a special crepe style and has excellent hand feel.

Description

Elastic fabric and method for preparing the same Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of textiles, and in particular to an elastic fabric and a method for preparing the fabric. Background Art

[0002] Improving fabric elasticity has always been a key topic in textile technology. With the recent rise in popularity of sportswear and casual wear, market demand for various types of stretch fabrics has rapidly increased. Simultaneously, product demand is shifting towards greater diversity and functionality. Improving elasticity while also imparting more functional characteristics and a diverse feel is a key area of ​​focus.

[0003] In order to improve the elasticity of woven fabrics, there are usually several methods:

[0004] 1. Using highly elastic spandex filaments as core yarns, coating them with low-elastic fibers to prepare elastic yarns, and then using these yarns to prepare fabrics. JP47-021274 and JP3-28733 disclose using non-elastic fibers (such as polyester and nylon) to coat / wrap around elastic fibers to make composite yarns, and using these elastic composite yarns to weave stretch fabrics. CN107075751B discloses using highly elastic polyolefin elastic fibers or polyurethane elastic fibers as core yarns, blending and twisting them with relatively low-elastic PBT or bicomponent PTT / PET, PTT / PBT and nylon to make a sheath, and then weaving them into stretch fabrics.

[0005] 2. Elastic yarns are blended from various fibers that are less elastic than highly elastic fibers like spandex but can be spun into short staples, and these yarns are then used to make elastic fabrics. CN113718393A discloses an elastic woven fabric made by interweaving warp and weft yarns. These two yarns are blended from cotton and stretch silk, and then woven into the fabric. However, these yarns often have limited elasticity, making them difficult to use in highly elastic fabrics.

[0006] 3. Directly use high elastic yarns such as spandex to prepare stretch fabrics. CN114016188B discloses a stretch woven fabric using bare spandex as weft yarn and its production method.

[0007] 4. Using composite spinning technology to produce highly elastic polyester or other synthetic fiber elastic yarns, and then weaving fabrics with this yarn. JP3800915 discloses a yarn made by twisting multifilaments of conjugated fibers made by laminating two polyester polymers, and elastic fabrics woven with this yarn.

[0008] Obviously, these methods all start from improving the elasticity of yarn and fabric. However, there are the following defects. Regarding method 1, it is the most commonly used method at present, but the elastic elongation of the fabric in the warp direction generally does not exceed 35%, and the elastic elongation in the weft direction generally does not exceed 60%, which cannot meet market demand. Regarding method 2, the elasticity is limited and it is used to process fabrics with an elastic elongation of no more than 20%. Regarding method 3, the processing is difficult, the fabric style and feel have obvious limitations, and the fabric strength is difficult to guarantee. Regarding method 4, the elastic elongation is limited, and the elastic recovery force is large, and the fabric has a strong sense of restraint. At the same time, the above methods also have the disadvantages of high elastic recovery force of the fabric, fast elastic recovery speed, and the resulting clothing has a strong sense of restraint when worn.

[0009] Among the factors influencing fabric elasticity, the most important is the yarn's overall shrinkage, followed by the elastic fiber content in the yarn, with twist having little influence. Yarn overall shrinkage refers to the process by which elastic fibers are stretched 2-5 times during the spinning process. During the subsequent weaving and dyeing and finishing processes, as the tension is removed, the yarn is subjected only to inter-yarn friction, resulting in shrinkage. This shrinkage, in turn, allows for further elongation. Therefore, yarn overall shrinkage is the most important factor affecting the elasticity of woven fabrics. Currently, the most common approach to improving fabric elasticity is to adjust the process to maximize yarn shrinkage during textile dyeing and finishing, while also increasing the elastic fiber content through yarn structural design. Currently, spandex is the most effective and widely used elastic fiber. When using the aforementioned process to produce spandex elastic fabrics, the warp elastic elongation of woven fabrics generally does not exceed 35% and the weft elastic elongation does not exceed 60%. For knitted fabrics, the warp elastic elongation generally does not exceed 200% and the weft elastic elongation does not exceed 260%. Summary of the Invention

[0010] In view of the above-mentioned defects of the prior art, the technical problem to be solved by the present invention is that the existing elastic fabrics have low elastic elongation in the warp and weft directions, high elastic recovery force, strong fabric binding feeling, great processing difficulty, obvious limitations in fabric style and feel, and difficulty in ensuring fabric strength. The present invention provides an elastic fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein the elastic fabric has excellent elasticity, wherein the elastic elongation of the woven fabric in the warp direction can exceed 35-70%, and the elastic elongation in the weft direction can reach 80-130%; the elastic elongation of the knitted fabric in the warp direction can exceed 180-250%, and the elastic elongation in the weft direction can reach 250-360%; the fabric has a low elastic modulus and a low elastic recovery rate, and the fabric has a weak sense of binding when worn; the fabric surface can obtain a special wrinkle style and excellent feel; the present invention also provides a method for stably processing and producing the elastic knitted fabric.

[0011] To achieve the above-mentioned objectives, the present invention provides an elastic fabric, which uses TPU fiber as the elastic fiber material of the elastic fabric, processes the TPU fiber into elastic yarn, and obtains a woven fabric with excellent elasticity and good feel through the structural design of the elastic yarn and fabric, combined with the corresponding textile dyeing and finishing process.

[0012] Furthermore, the fineness of the TPU fiber is set to 8 dtex to 1200 dtex, and the number of strands is set to 1 to 50.

[0013] Furthermore, TPU fibers use aliphatic diols as chain extenders. During the spinning process, low-temperature drawing allows the fiber macromolecular chains to be highly oriented, and the tensile stress is retained inside the fiber, forming a highly oriented, low-crystalline macromolecular conformation.

[0014] Furthermore, TPU uses 1,4-butanediol (BDO) as a chain extender.

[0015] Furthermore, the elastic yarn processed by using TPU fiber includes one of core-spun yarn, covered yarn, twisted yarn and siro yarn.

[0016] Furthermore, the core-spun yarn is configured to use TPU filament as the core yarn, which is wrapped with one or more short fibers, and is spun through one or more devices including a ring spinning machine, a friction spinning machine, an air spinning machine, a vortex spinning machine, a hollow spindle spinning machine, a ring twisting machine, an air-covered yarn machine or a special core-spun spinning machine.

[0017] Furthermore, the content of the TPU fiber in the elastic yarn is set to 2-60%.

[0018] Furthermore, the covering yarn is configured to use TPU filaments as core yarns, with synthetic filaments or short fiber yarns as outer coverings, and the stretched TPU filaments are covered in a spiral or curved manner.

[0019] Furthermore, the covered yarn includes single-layer covering and double-layer covering; wherein, in the case of single-layer covering, the overfeed rate is 5% to 10%, and in the case of double-layer covering, the overfeed rate is 10% to 50%.

[0020] Furthermore, the twisted yarn is configured to be formed by combining and twisting the TPU filament with two or more other inelastic yarns while the TPU filament is being drawn.

[0021] Furthermore, the TPU fiber filaments in the combined twist yarn have the same twist as the outer yarn, and have no obvious core-sheath relationship, but are twisted with each other.

[0022] Furthermore, the Siro yarn is configured as a double / multi-component Siro yarn spun with TPU filament as the yarn core and natural fiber or synthetic fiber as the outer fiber, wherein there are two outer fibers, namely, Siro spun roving.

[0023] Furthermore, the TPU filaments are fed in an active feeding manner at the front roller jaws, and the elasticity and blending ratio of the yarn are controlled by the feeding device.

[0024] Furthermore, the fabric structure is set according to demand to improve the elasticity of the fabric; wherein, when weaving woven fabrics, it is set to one of twill weave or plain weave, and when weaving knitted fabrics, one or more of padding, weft insertion and added yarn are used to weave the ground structure.

[0025] Furthermore, the tightness of the woven fabric is set to 70% to 90% in the warp direction and 40% to 50% in the weft direction.

[0026] Furthermore, the ratio of the reed width during weaving of the warp and weft bidirectional stretch fabric to the width of the final product is set to 1:0.4-0.7, the weaving shrinkage of the loom is between 10% and 25%, and the weft shrinkage is between 30% and 55%.

[0027] The present invention also provides a method for weaving elastic fabrics from elastic fabrics, including weaving and dyeing and finishing processes, wherein weaving includes weaving and knitting, and the weaving process includes the following steps: first, warp yarns are warped, and after warping, warp yarns are combined, and then ironing, drawing in the healds, reeding, and weaving are completed in sequence, and rolling is performed after weaving is completed.

[0028] Furthermore, the method further includes sizing the warp yarns before the warp yarns are combined.

[0029] Furthermore, low-temperature drying is also included after weaving is completed.

[0030] Furthermore, the control parameters during the warp warping process include tension, hairiness and unwinding tension; the tension is set as the drawing tension of the warp head, which is the tension coefficient T1×yarn fineness×number of warping strips, where the T1 value is set to 0.1~0.3; the unwinding tension is set as the tension of the yarn unwound from the yarn tube, which is the tension coefficient T2×yarn fineness, with an error range of ±2cN, and the T2 value is set to 0.08~0.24.

[0031] Furthermore, the dyeing and finishing process includes heat setting, pre-treatment wet processing, dyeing / printing, and tenter setting; or pre-treatment wet processing, heat setting, dyeing / printing, and tenter setting.

[0032] Furthermore, during knitting, the TPU filaments are arranged in a suspended arc shape inside the fabric, and the coils formed by long needles and short needles change in an alternating sequence. The extension lines of two adjacent horizontal rows of coils are arranged in a cross checkerboard shape, thereby hindering the displacement of the yarn in the longitudinal height direction, thereby increasing the loop spacing and reducing the loop height.

[0033] Furthermore, the knitted fabric includes rib weave fabric, single jersey fabric and double rib fabric.

[0034] Furthermore, the dyeing and finishing process also includes a raising process to produce an elastic raised fabric. The raising process is arranged after dyeing / printing, and the shaping is performed after the raising process is completed.

[0035] Furthermore, the dyeing and finishing process also includes a raising process to produce an elastic raised fabric. The raising process is arranged after the pre-treatment wet processing, and dyeing / printing is performed after the raising process is completed.

[0036] Furthermore, the raising process includes raising and plucking. Specifically, the fibers in the fabric are hooked out with a high-speed steel needle roller to form a thick layer of hairiness on the cloth surface, and the surface loops are cut and trimmed; then the pile is plucking by using a plucking machine.

[0037] Technical Effects

[0038] The present invention provides an elastic fabric and a method for preparing the same. The elastic fabric exhibits excellent elasticity, with woven fabrics exhibiting warp elastic elongation of 35-70% and weft elastic elongation of 80-130%. Knitted fabrics exhibit warp elastic elongation of 180-250% and weft elastic elongation of 250-360%. The fabric has a low elastic modulus and a low elastic recovery rate, resulting in comfortable garments. Furthermore, the fabric surface can be wrinkled, providing an excellent hand feel. The method for preparing the elastic fabric provided by the present invention can stably produce elastic woven and knitted fabrics.

[0039] During the fabric processing, the warp and weft yarns form a staggered structure, which facilitates air flow through the fabric, improving breathability and making the resulting garment more comfortable to wear. Furthermore, proper structural design can reduce light transmittance through the fabric, improving its shielding effect and reducing UV transmittance for better UV protection.

[0040] At the same time, the fabric provided by the present invention can be further subjected to a raising process, which can significantly improve the raising effect without changing the fabric structure, processing equipment, and process, especially solving problems such as insufficient pile density and uneven and uneven pile on the surface. It can also improve the fabric's resistance to snagging and pilling.

[0041] The concept, specific structure and technical effects of the present invention will be further described below in conjunction with the accompanying drawings to fully understand the purpose, characteristics and effects of the present invention. BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0042] FIG1 is a schematic diagram of a woven elastic fabric according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention;

[0043] FIG2 is a schematic diagram of a finished fabric of a woven elastic fabric according to a preferred embodiment of the present invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0044] In order to make the technical problems, technical solutions and beneficial effects to be solved by the present invention more clearly understood, the present invention is further described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings and embodiments. It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are only used to explain the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.

[0045] In the following description, specific details, such as certain internal procedures and techniques, are provided for purposes of illustration and not limitation to facilitate a thorough understanding of the embodiments of the present invention. However, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the present invention may be practiced in other embodiments without these specific details. In other cases, detailed descriptions of well-known systems, devices, circuits, and methods are omitted so as not to obscure the description of the present invention with unnecessary detail.

[0046] The present invention provides an elastic fabric with excellent elasticity. The fabric is woven using TPU fibers as the elastic fiber material. The TPU fibers are processed into elastic yarns. The elastic yarn and fabric are designed and combined with appropriate textile dyeing and finishing processes to produce a woven fabric with excellent elasticity and a good hand feel. The TPU fibers have a fineness of 8 to 1200 dtex, preferably 15 to 140 dtex, and more preferably 20 to 80 dtex. The number of strands is 1 to 10.

[0047] TPU fibers differ from dry-spun spandex in their chemical structures. The primary difference is that dry-spun spandex uses diamine chain extenders, resulting in sufficient microphase separation between the soft and hard segments, forming a stable structure. TPU fibers, on the other hand, use aliphatic diols as chain extenders, preferably 1,4-butanediol (BDO). This results in a large number of hydrogen bonds between the hard and soft segments, resulting in inadequate phase separation and a significant amount of hard segments dissolved in the soft segments. During the spinning process, low-temperature drafting preserves the high degree of macromolecular chain orientation in the fiber, retaining tensile stress within the fiber and forming a highly oriented, low-crystalline macromolecular conformation. Subsequent fiber drafting during textile processing further strengthens the macromolecular chain orientation and correspondingly increases internal stress. After weaving, the stress is relieved and the TPU fibers begin to shrink, manifesting as a shortening in the fiber length. During dyeing and finishing, the fibers are further shrunk by the combined effects of temperature and water.

[0048] When subjected to the same tension below the breaking strength, TPU fibers exhibit greater elongation. However, in textile processing, only spinning precisely controls the draft of elastic fibers by adjusting the speed ratio of the unwinding and drafting rollers. In other textile processes, yarn draft is generally influenced by factors such as applied tension, mechanism speed, and yarn unwinding speed. This results in TPU fibers exhibiting greater elongation during weaving than dry-spun spandex under current textile processes, allowing the fabric to retract later.

[0049] Combining the above two reasons, the shrinkage rate of TPU fiber fabrics during dyeing and finishing is very high, which can exceed 50% or even reach 60%, making the fabric have good elasticity.

[0050] As shown in Figure 1, 1 represents the elastic yarn in the warp or weft direction, and 2 represents the yarn in the other direction, which can be either elastic or non-elastic. The resulting woven fabric has a large spacing between adjacent warp or weft yarns, or in other words, a high weft density or warp density. As shown in Figure 2, a schematic diagram of the finished fabric, the TPU undergoes axial shrinkage, which in turn reduces the spacing between adjacent yarns in the other direction.

[0051] Elastic yarns made from TPU fibers include core-spun yarn, covered yarn, twisted yarn, and siro yarn. Woven fabrics require TPU fibers to be processed into elastic yarns before being woven, while knitted fabrics typically use bare TPU fibers directly in the weaving process. Elastic fabrics can also be woven using core-spun yarn or covered yarn, similar to woven fabrics.

[0052] 1. Core-spun yarn

[0053] The core-spun yarn is configured to use TPU filament as the core yarn, which is covered with one or more short fibers (such as cotton, wool, silk, linen, polyester, acrylic, viscose or various blended short fibers, etc.), and is spun using one or more equipment selected from the group consisting of a ring spinning frame, a friction spinning frame, an air spinning frame, a vortex spinning frame or a special core-spun spinning frame. In this embodiment, the yarn is spun using a friction spinning frame and a modified ring spinning frame.

[0054] The content of TPU fiber is set to 2-25%.

[0055] Generally speaking, the finer the yarn, the lower the maximum draft ratio. For example, at 22 dtex, the draft ratio is 2.8 to 3.8 times; at 44 dtex, it is 2.8 to 4.2 times; at 78 dtex, it is 2.8 to 4.4 times; and at 400 dtex, it is 3.6 to 5.0 times.

[0056] Twist coefficient is generally selected from 300 to 1200 twists. At the same time, the twist coefficient should be 20% to 30% higher than that of pure ring-spun yarn with the same linear density, so that the strength of the two is close.

[0057] 2. Covered yarn

[0058] The covered yarn is configured with TPU fiber as the yarn core, with synthetic filament or staple yarn as the outer covering, and the stretched TPU filament is covered in a spiral manner. Spandex covered yarn is selected according to the application of the core yarn and outer covering yarn (yarn) of appropriate specifications, and its draft ratio and elasticity can be limited according to the application to spin out yarn that meets the requirements. Spandex covered yarn is generally spun on a hollow spindle spinning machine. The speed of the air-covered yarn machine is generally 50-300m / min, while the mechanical covering speed is 2-10m / min. The twist number can reach 1500 twists, generally 600-900 twists. Depending on the different applications and specifications of the covered yarn, the draft ratio of the TPU fiber as the core yarn is 2.5-5.2 times.

[0059] The covered yarn includes single-layer covering and double-layer covering; in the case of single-layer covering, the overfeeding rate is 5% to 10%, and in the case of double-layer covering, the overfeeding rate is 10% to 50%.

[0060] Among them, the calculation of TPU fiber content in the coated yarn is as follows:

[0061] Where: D—TPU drafting multiple;

[0062] Kt—ratio of outer yarn to core yarn number,

[0063] Kw—coefficient related to the standard moisture regain, generally (1 ~ standard moisture regain of outer yarn).

[0064] 3. Twisted yarn

[0065] Combined-twist yarn, also known as ply yarn, is produced by combining and twisting two or more TPU filaments while being drafted and other yarns with no or low elasticity. The TPU filaments and outer yarns in this combined-twist yarn have the same twist, with no distinct core-sheath relationship, but rather a twisted relationship. Combined-twist yarn is typically produced on a ring twisting machine equipped with a special yarn feeding device.

[0066] 4.Siro yarn

[0067] The siro yarn is a double / multi-component siro yarn spun with TPU filament as the yarn core and natural fiber or synthetic fiber as the outer fiber. The outer fiber is two, that is, siro spun roving.

[0068] Siro yarn is a novel ring spinning method that produces a ply-like yarn structure directly on a ring spinning frame. Siro yarn can be produced by installing appropriate equipment on a conventional spinning frame. This bi-(or multi-)component Siro yarn is made with TPU filament as the core yarn and natural or synthetic fibers as the outer covering fibers. The outer covering fibers, known as Siro roving, are controlled by a core filament unwinding device, which is fed from the front roller via a godet to achieve a specific drafting ratio by varying the speed of the core filaments relative to the front roller. The two Siro rovings are fed from the rear roller via a double-flared roving feeder with a specific spacing. After being drafted to a specific drafting ratio, they are twisted with the TPU core filaments at the front roller nip, forming a TPU fiber Siro yarn with a certain elasticity. The TPU filaments are fed into the front nip using an active feeding method, and the elasticity and blending ratio of the resulting yarn are controlled by the feeding device.

[0069] 1. Regarding woven fabrics, the three most popular woven stretch fabrics on the market are weft stretch, warp stretch and full stretch (four-way stretch). In terms of fabric structure design, there are: woven fabric organization design.

[0070] Woven fabrics vary in elasticity. To maximize the elongation of stretch yarns, twill weaves are primarily chosen in fabric design, rather than plain weaves with more interlacing points. For example, twill weaves for stretch corduroy provide greater elasticity than plain weaves. However, this is not a limitation, depending on the specific application. In this embodiment, plain weaves, such as some stretch poplins, can also achieve excellent elasticity.

[0071] From the analysis of the organizational structure, the warp yarn of 1 / 1 plain weave fabric has a greater blocking effect on the elasticity of the weft yarn. Therefore, when designing light shirt fabrics using stretch poplin, the weft to warp density ratio can be made greater than 1:2, for example, the weft density is 72 threads / inch and the warp density is 133 threads / inch, which can make the fabric have good elasticity.

[0072] 2. Density design of woven fabrics

[0073] When designing the tightness of stretch woven fabrics, consider the tightness of the finished product due to large fabric shrinkage. Therefore, the tightness standards of ordinary fabrics of the same type and the tightness of certain high-quality varieties can be referenced and appropriately reduced. Choosing a higher tightness will affect the fabric's elastic elongation and cause some changes in the fabric's style characteristics when unstressed. Therefore, the warp and weft tightness of the finished product should be controlled near the lower limit of the tightness of ordinary fabrics of the same type. For example, the warp tightness of ordinary khaki fabric is 80% to 110% and the weft tightness is 45% to 60%. Correspondingly, the warp tightness of stretch fabrics can be 70% to 90% and the weft tightness can be 40% to 50%.

[0074] When weaving, the core-spun yarn is given a draft tension equivalent to 85% to 95% of that during spinning. During weaving, the core-spun yarn is given sufficient tension to straighten the outer non-elastic fibers, while the elongation of the TPU filaments does not exceed the draft multiple during spinning. In addition, the structure of woven stretch fabrics is also an important factor affecting elasticity. The fewer warp and weft yarns and interlacing points in the fabric, the longer the floating length of the weft stretch yarn and the larger the gaps between yarns, the less resistance to weft yarn contraction, allowing the weft stretch yarn to fully contract, and exhibiting greater elastic elongation. Similarly, reducing the weft yarn density can also reduce the resistance to the warp yarn.

[0075] The density of woven stretch fabrics made of TPU fibers should be designed to be lower than that of dry-process spandex fabrics of the same type to ensure that the elastic elongation of the woven fabric is not reduced. However, the density of woven stretch fabrics varies greatly during processing due to different shrinkage, scouring and heat setting processes. Calculation is based on the formula:

[0076] The weft density of woven weft-stretch fabrics and the warp density of woven warp-stretch fabrics can refer to the design of the same type of dry-process spandex stretch fabric, and the values ​​are slightly lower. For warp-weft double-stretch fabrics, the values ​​calculated by the above formula can be appropriately reduced.

[0077] 3.Weaving process design

[0078] At the same time, the reed width during weaving should be appropriately widened to allow the weft yarn greater room for shrinkage during subsequent dyeing and finishing wet heat treatment, potentially reaching 30% to 60% shrinkage, giving the fabric excellent elasticity and hand feel. Therefore, the width processing coefficient of woven weft-stretch fabrics is relatively low, approximately 0.4 to 0.75. Generally, the difference between the width of the grey fabric and the finished product is required to be less than 20%, and the elastic shrinkage rate is approximately 50%. This results in better weft elastic elongation and shrinkage in the finished product. The grey fabric width and warp and weft density are also carefully adjusted. In this embodiment, the ratio of the reed width during weaving of the warp and weft bidirectional stretch woven fabric to the final finished product width is approximately 1:0.4 to 0.7. The warp shrinkage of the loom is between 10% and 25%, and the weft shrinkage is between 30% and 55%.

[0079] During the wet heat treatment, the internal stress generated during spinning and weaving relaxes, causing the TPU filaments to shrink rapidly, causing the weft yarn to shrink significantly and resulting in a significant decrease in width. The greater the draft coefficient of the TPU filaments during spinning, the more significant the width shrinkage. Therefore, the width processing coefficient of this type of fabric during dyeing and finishing is much smaller than that of similar ordinary fabrics. Therefore, the warp and weft density of the fabric must be reasonably configured to ensure relatively stable shrinkage. If the weft yarn remains in this contracted state, the fabric width will be narrower than the finished width. However, if the bent weft yarn is simply mechanically stretched, it will naturally shrink during storage, resulting in severe shrinkage during the wet heat treatment.

[0080] Machine weaving includes the following steps: first, warp yarn is warped, then warp yarn is combined, and then drawing in the heddle or automatic drawing in the heddle, drawing in the reed, and weaving (water jet loom) are completed in sequence, and winding is performed after weaving is completed; among them, if automatic drawing in is used, the yarn needs to be ironed first.

[0081] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the warp yarns are further sizing before warp yarns are combined.

[0082] In another preferred embodiment of the present invention, low-temperature drying is further included after weaving is completed.

[0083] Specific processing technologies include:

[0084] 1. Warping: Three parameters need to be controlled during the warping process: tension, hairiness and unwinding tension:

[0085] a. Tension: This refers to the pulling tension of the warp head, which is related to the fineness and strength of the yarn. It is generally calculated as the tension coefficient T1 × yarn fineness (dtex) × number of warps. The T1 value is generally between 0.1 and 0.3.

[0086] b. Hairiness: There is an infrared detection device on the warping machine to monitor the height of yarn hairiness. If the hairiness height exceeds the device setting, an alarm will be prompted;

[0087] c. Unwinding tension: refers to the tension of the yarn when it is unwound from the bobbin, which is generally the tension coefficient T2×yarn fineness (dtex), with an error range of ±2cN. The T2 value is generally between 0.08 and 0.24.

[0088] The following two parameters also need to be paid attention to during the warping process:

[0089] d. Speed: 120~420m / min; Speed ​​refers to the speed at which the equipment runs, that is, the processing speed, the length of yarn warping per unit time.

[0090] e. Static electricity control: Generally, it is necessary to install an electrostatic elimination device. If the static electricity cannot be improved, the warping speed needs to be reduced to ensure smooth processing.

[0091] 2. Sizing: The process includes sizing - drying - cylinder waxing - head preparation

[0092] Slurry: Natural or synthetic slurry can be used, preferably acrylic slurry.

[0093] The process conditions for sizing are as follows:

[0094] a. Sizing temperature: Sizing tank temperature 25-55°C, oven temperature 80-160°C, cylinder temperature 100-180°C. The cylinder temperature is related to the yarn fineness. Generally, 20D yarn uses 100-110°C, and 50D or 70D yarn uses 120-130°C.

[0095] b. Vehicle speed: 60m / min~200m / min.

[0096] c. Sizing rate: 0.2%

[0097] d. Waxing temperature: 86℃, waxing amount 0.1~0.3%.

[0098] 3. Warping: The tension value of the warping process is generally 0.35×yarn fineness (dtex)×number of warp yarns on the warp head, and the tension fluctuation range of each warp is within + / -2cN.

[0099] 4. Drawing in the reed

[0100] If automatic reed and heddle drawing is used, the yarn needs to be ironed first. The ironing temperature depends on the material and thickness of the outer yarn, and is generally between 160 and 200°C.

[0101] 5. Weaving: Water jet loom, double jet in weft direction. Weaving conditions are as follows:

[0102] Production speed: 0.12 m / min;

[0103] Length of fabric on board: 7.6 meters;

[0104] Tension coefficient: 180;

[0105] Rotational speed: 350~800rpm.

[0106] In the embodiment of the present invention, an air jet loom is used for weaving, wherein:

[0107] a. A yarn clamp can be installed before the main nozzle and the normal pressure can be adjusted to 0.02-0.03MPa;

[0108] b. Adjust the main nozzle pressure to 0.2-0.3MPa and the auxiliary nozzle pressure to 0.25-0.35MPa;

[0109] c. The starting time of the electromagnetic pin should be 0°~6° later than the starting time of the main spray. The starting time of the first group of auxiliary nozzles should be the same as that of the main spray nozzle. The spraying time of the remaining groups of auxiliary nozzles should be extended by 20° respectively to achieve overlapping spraying of small air pressure for weft insertion, ensuring that it arrives on time without any small mistakes.

[0110] d. Adjust the distance between the last set of auxiliary nozzles to <1cm and the distance between the H1 and H2 probes of the weft feeler to 20cm.

[0111] e. Increase the number of weft catching threads by 2 to 4 threads.

[0112] 6. Low temperature drying: Use flat-width low temperature drying, the drying temperature is 80℃, and the drying time is 8 to 10 minutes.

[0113] The above is the weaving method for woven fabrics, and the next is for knitted fabrics.

[0114] Knitted fabrics are typically woven directly with bare TPU fibers. In the clothing fabric applications described in the embodiments of the present invention, the TPU filaments are typically arranged in a suspended arc shape within the fabric, without being exposed on the surface. Due to the alternating sequence of the coils formed by the long and short needles, the extension lines of two adjacent horizontal rows of coils are arranged in a cross-checkerboard pattern, thereby hindering the displacement of the yarn in the longitudinal height direction. Thus, when the fabric is in equilibrium and the coil length and yarn fineness remain the same, the loop pitch increases while the loop height decreases.

[0115] TPU filaments are in a stretched state in the fabric. Due to the presence of tension, the coil pitch and height in the equilibrium state tend to decrease. Therefore, in addition to the configuration of the TPU filaments and the structure of the ground weave, the length of the weave coils and the length of the TPU filaments in the coils, that is, the draft ratio of the TPU filaments, also have a significant impact on the properties of the fabric.

[0116] TPU filaments, in the form of bare yarn, core-spun yarn, or wrapped yarn, are incorporated into the ground weave using methods such as padding, weft inlay, and plating to enhance the elasticity of the ground weave. In this case, the TPU filaments are interwoven with other non-elastic yarns (ground yarns). The ground weave can be plain weave, rib weave, interlock weave, or other variations. Using padding and weft inlay to incorporate TPU filaments into the ground weave results in greater fabric elasticity, requiring less TPU filament, which helps reduce the cost of the greige fabric.

[0117] Therefore, for stretch weft-knitted fabrics for apparel, TPU filaments are incorporated into the ground weave not through padding or weft insertion, but rather through plating or partial plating. For example, in a single-sided TPU filament weft-knitted fabric with a plain weft ground weave, the TPU filaments can be plaited in alternate rows, in every row, or at intervals, such as every other row. The amount of TPU filament used in these plating methods varies. Generally speaking, the higher the TPU filament content, the greater the elasticity of the fabric. In weft-knitted stretch fabrics, the TPU fiber content is generally controlled between 4 and 35%. For some specialized fabrics, the content can reach over 70%, or even be exclusively TPU fiber. Another example is a double-sided TPU filament weft-knitted fabric with a ribbed ground weft. The TPU filaments are plaited on the back of every other row, or can be plaited in every row, depending on the fabric's elasticity requirements.

[0118] The ground weave of knitted fabrics includes rib weave fabrics, single weave fabrics and double rib weave fabrics.

[0119] 1. Rib weave fabric

[0120] a. Three-mouth ribbing

[0121] This type of fabric can only be woven on a small-diameter rib loom and has a cylindrical shape. When weaving this type of rib fabric, the TPU filament is fed only on the needles of the loom dial in alternate passes to improve the transverse elasticity of the rib.

[0122] b. Half-plated rib

[0123] TPU filaments are fed through the needles of the rib machine's needle disc, causing the filaments to interlace and loop together to create the fabric. This type of fabric, after being knitted on a large-diameter rib machine and then slit to form a flat width, maintains excellent transverse elasticity while improving longitudinal elasticity. The loop length ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the elastic yarn can range from 1.3 to 2:1.

[0124] c. Added ribbing

[0125] Spandex yarn is fed simultaneously through the disc and cylinder needles of a rib knitting machine to create a plated fabric. This type of fabric has excellent elasticity, with no visible difference between the front and back, and no curling.

[0126] 2 single-sided fabric

[0127] This is the most widely used stretch knitted fabric in knitted garments. It is based on plain weft stitch and is woven in two types: semi-plated and plated.

[0128] a. Semi-plated weave

[0129] It is commonly used in plain stitch and can also be used in tuck stitch. When knitting, the spandex yarn is fed in one way and the other way. The fabric is elastic but not obvious. The transverse elongation is greater than the longitudinal elongation. The linear density of the non-elastic yarn used is generally 9.7tex (60 S ) to 19.4tex(30 S ), the density of TPU elastic yarn is generally 22dtex to 77dtex. The coil length ratio of elastic yarn to non-elastic yarn is generally 2.4 to 3.6:1.

[0130] b. Plating yarn

[0131] This is currently the most important application method, and its processing requirements are also the highest. First, the feeding tension of the TPU filament must be well controlled. The tension value is roughly related to the linear density. Generally speaking, the feeding tension of 20D TPU filament is generally 2-3g, and the feeding tension of 30D TPU filament is 3-4g. Secondly, the loop length ratio of the elastic yarn to the non-elastic yarn must be controlled within 2.2-4.0:1, that is, the draft ratio of the elastic yarn is 2.2-4.0 times.

[0132] 3 double rib weave

[0133] TPU filaments for interlock weave are generally added to the needles on the dial. There are generally the following ways to add them:

[0134] a. When knitting in this manner, TPU filaments are added to one of every three stitches. The TPU filaments are added to the high-heeled and low-heeled needles on the dial. Due to the elastic contraction of the TPU filaments, the fabric surface exhibits a checkerboard-like appearance similar to a tucked stitch. This fabric contains only a small amount of TPU filament, accounting for only about 2%. This results in minimal width shrinkage, low elongation, and minimal weight gain.

[0135] b. Add TPU filaments every other two lines: This method adds TPU filaments to the needles of the dial every other two lines, making one side of the fabric appear like a horizontal ribbed fabric, similar to a semi-plated spandex single-sided fabric. The fabric has a larger transverse elongation and a smaller longitudinal elongation.

[0136] c. When knitting with TPU filaments added every other strand, the TPU filaments are fixed to the dial needles at a uniform butt height, with the filaments interlaced to form loops. This type of fabric exhibits excellent elasticity, particularly with greater transverse shrinkage, resulting in a greater increase in gram weight than the fabrics described in a) and b). The fabric surface is smooth, but due to the elastic shrinkage of the TPU filaments, a sparse and dense appearance can be seen on the reverse side. This phenomenon is more pronounced with shorter TPU filament feed lengths.

[0137] The key points of knitting process of knitted fabrics are as follows:

[0138] Due to its high elasticity and extensibility, TPU filament must be fed using a fixed-length positive yarn feeder. While ensuring normal knitting, increasing the machine tension appropriately can reduce the amount of TPU filament used. In single-sided TPU filament-added knitted fabrics, to ensure that the TPU filament appears only on the technical back side of the fabric, the longitudinal and transverse angles of the TPU filament inlay must be greater than those of the ground yarn, and low friction conditions must be maintained to ensure that the relative position of the yarn within the needle hook remains unchanged during knitting. In double-sided weaves, TPU filament only needs to be inlayed on the top needle. A pulley yarn guide should be used, positioned slightly lower so that only the top needle can receive the TPU filament. Because TPU filament has excellent resilience, the fabric width decreases and the surface density increases after the fabric comes off the machine. To maintain the surface density of the fabric without TPU filament, yarn fineness can be reduced or loop length can be varied.

[0139] In the embodiment of the present invention, it is also necessary to combine the textile dyeing and finishing process:

[0140] The basic process includes heat setting, pre-treatment wet processing, dyeing / printing, and tenter setting; or pre-treatment wet processing, heat setting, dyeing / printing, and tenter setting. Pre-treatment and heat setting are key steps in the dyeing and finishing process, while finishing assists in achieving various additional properties of the stretch fabric. The dyeing and printing processes are essentially the same as those for conventional spandex stretch fabrics.

[0141] In the embodiment of the invention, the heat setting process is used for shaping.

[0142] Heat setting is a crucial process in the dyeing and finishing of stretch fabrics, controlling width, dimensional stability, preventing excessive shrinkage, smoothing wrinkles, controlling weft shrinkage, controlling weight per square meter, and fabric shrinkage. Since stretch fabric can shrink as much as 40% to 60% in width after leaving the machine, this can easily lead to wrinkling and curling during processing, especially for twill fabrics and fabrics with substandard widths. Heat setting is therefore necessary to control shrinkage, achieve the required width, and prevent wrinkling and curling. Since TPU fibers are susceptible to heat damage at high temperatures, the setting temperature should be controlled between 160°C and 180°C, generally not exceeding 180°C except for heavy fabrics. Based on the setting mechanism and practice, the heat setting process can be performed before the wet pre-processing process to set the fabric, or after the wet pre-processing process but before the dyeing process. The basic principle here is: when the width of the grey fabric is smaller than the finished product requirements, it should be heat-set; when the width of the grey fabric is larger than the finished product requirements, it can be wet-treated before heat-setting to improve the fabric's dimensional stability. If the fabric width is still wide and wrinkle-free after wet-setting, pre-setting is not necessary. However, dry heat setting should be used during soft stretching to ensure the finished product's width, elastic elongation, rebound rate, and weft shrinkage. The width of the heat-set fabric is determined under given heat-setting temperature and time conditions. The principle is that the width of the semi-finished product to be heat-set first should be smaller than that of the finished product, while the width of the semi-finished product to be heat-set later should be slightly larger than that of the finished product.

[0143] There are many types of fibers that can be used in textile fabrics, but they fall into three main categories: natural fibers, primarily cotton, linen, silk, and wool; synthetic fibers, primarily polyester, nylon, and acrylic, including the spandex mentioned in this patent; and regenerated or man-made fibers, primarily viscose and acetate. These fibers require different dyeing and finishing conditions.

[0144] Among natural fibers, cotton is the most widely used. Therefore, this embodiment takes cotton-containing fabrics as an example.

[0145] Weaving process of cotton fabrics: can be: grey cloth inspection → singeing → open width relaxation → loose drying → pre-setting → cold pad batch annealing → mercerizing → drying → dyeing → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0146] Or: Grey cloth inspection → Open width relaxation and desizing combined → proceed together → Loose drying → Singeing → Cold padding (boiling and bleaching) → Drying → Pre-setting → Mercerizing → Drying → Dyeing → Soft stretching → Pre-shrinking → Finished product.

[0147] Or: Grey cloth inspection → enzyme desizing and relaxation treatment → drying → alkaline oxygen one-bath bleaching → drying → singeing → hydrogen peroxide bleaching → drying → pre-setting → mercerizing → drying → dyeing → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0148] The optimal process flow is: grey cloth inspection → low-temperature wet heat relaxation (gradually heating to 90℃ for 30 minutes) → enzyme desizing → drying → singeing → cold pad-batch scouring and bleaching → efficient and sufficient water washing → drying → pre-forming → mercerizing → dyeing → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0149] Or: Grey cloth inspection → Low-temperature wet heat relaxation (gradually increase the temperature to 90℃ for 30min) → Enzyme desizing → Drying → Singeing → Pre-forming → Cold pad-batch scouring and bleaching → High-efficiency and sufficient water washing → Drying → Mercerizing → Dyeing → Soft stretching → Pre-shrinking → Finished product.

[0150] Or: grey cloth inspection → enzyme desizing → drying → singeing → cold pad-batch scouring and bleaching → efficient and sufficient water washing → drying → pre-forming → mercerizing → dyeing → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0151] Selection of dyeing and finishing conditions for cotton fabrics:

[0152] a. TPU fibers are subjected to continuous tension during the spinning and weaving processes, resulting in significant tensile deformation. Although their elastic recovery is relatively weak, continued shrinkage during dyeing and finishing can deform the fabric structure, causing wrinkles and curling. This also makes it difficult to control quality indicators such as width and weight of the finished fabric. Therefore, pretreatment, in addition to removing oils and sizing agents, also requires sufficient relaxation and pre-shrinkage of the fabric. This process is best performed at the beginning of the pretreatment process, either before or after singeing.

[0153] b. When singeing, the thermal stability of TPU fibers must be taken into consideration. Therefore, the burner temperature should be high, the speed through the burner should be fast, and the tension should be low. To avoid contamination of the fabric, singeing should be performed before bleaching. For heavily sized warp yarns, especially those with higher counts, the singeing process can be performed after desizing or alkali scouring to ensure quality.

[0154] c. When bleaching, use oxygen-containing bleach with a concentration not exceeding 10g / L. At the same time, control the alkali concentration to not exceed 10g / L, the temperature to be below 100℃, and the time to not exceed 30min.

[0155] d. For fabrics prone to wrinkling and curling, such as 3 / 1 twill, the cold pad-batch process can be used. Poplin fabrics can also be treated with the cold pad-batch process to achieve a better feel and product style. However, a highly effective, emulsifying scouring agent should be used, with the caustic soda dosage controlled to no more than 10g / L, the hydrogen peroxide concentration to no more than 5g / L, and the treatment time to no more than 48 hours. Alkaline and water washing after the cold pad-batch process should be strengthened, with the washing temperature not exceeding 90°C. To prevent defects such as wrinkles, creases, and curling caused by excessive shrinkage during high-temperature washing, a gradual temperature increase can be used to gradually shrink the fabric.

[0156] e. For mercerizing, the caustic soda concentration should be appropriately reduced, generally controlled at 160-200g / L. The caustic soda concentration used for the clipping process should generally be controlled at 40-50g / L. In addition, special attention should be paid to removing the caustic soda after clipping. The caustic soda box temperature should be low, and the machine speed should be high.

[0157] The TPU fiber used in the embodiment of the present invention is an elastic fiber. This elastic fiber is not used alone, but is blended or interwoven with various fibers.

[0158] There are some differences in the dyeing and finishing of cotton fabrics and chemical fiber fabrics. Cotton fabrics will have scouring and bleaching processes, while chemical fiber fabrics generally do not have these processes. Of course, there are also cases where cotton and chemical fiber are blended or interwoven, and the fabrics in these cases will also be scouring and bleaching.

[0159] Chemical fiber fabrics adopt the following dyeing and finishing processes:

[0160] Grey cloth inspection → loose open width relaxation and desizing → pre-forming → overflow machine relaxation and degreasing → overflow dyeing → color fixing → finishing and shaping → finished product inspection;

[0161] Or grey cloth inspection → loose open width relaxation and scouring → pre-forming → dyeing → color fixing, reduction cleaning → finishing and shaping → finished product inspection;

[0162] Or grey cloth inspection → loose open width relaxation → drying → open width desizing → pre-forming → scouring and degreasing → drying → dyeing → color fixing → finishing and shaping → finished product inspection;

[0163] Or grey cloth inspection → loose open-width relaxation → drying → open-width desizing → pre-forming → scouring and degreasing → drying → dyeing → color fixing, reduction cleaning → finishing and shaping → finished product inspection.

[0164] in,

[0165] a. Open-width relaxation / relaxation desizing can avoid creases caused by uneven shrinkage. Use alkali and scouring agent to treat the fabric at 85-100℃ for 5-30 minutes, and finally wash with shaking water.

[0166] The relaxation desizing process recipe is shown in Table 1.

[0167] Table 1 Relaxation and desizing prescription

[0168] b. Pre-setting: Set the setting temperature to approximately 170-175°C for 30-40 seconds. The setting width is generally set to 105-110% of the finished product width. Setting the width too wide will cause excessive stretching of the fabric, reducing its elasticity. Use a pin-plate setting machine equipped with a padding pre-drying device to maintain low tension and uniform temperature control, with a left-center-right temperature difference of ±1%. Control the overfeed rate based on the finished product's requirements, generally between 20-25%, but up to 40%.

[0169] At the same time, if the fabric contains nylon, it is generally necessary to soak it in antioxidants to prevent the amino groups at the end of the nylon from being oxidized and to improve the levelness of dyeing. The amount of antioxidant used is generally 15 to 30 g / L.

[0170] c. Degreasing and scouring: Use an air jet overflow dyeing machine for degreasing at 80-98°C for 15-30 minutes. Add 6g / L of 33% liquid caustic soda, 2g / L of high-efficiency degreasing agent, 0.2g / L of chelating agent, and 0.5g / L of wrinkle-proofing agent. Also pay attention to the feed tension, which is generally 0.8-1.5kg.

[0171] d. Dyeing: Dyeing is done on a low-tension jet overflow dyeing machine. The distance from the dye bath to the cloth pulley should be short to reduce tension and elongation in the rope-like fabric and minimize the appearance of rope-like streaks and wrinkles. The heating rate should be slow and staged; rapid heating can easily cause color fringing.

[0172] Typical dyeing recipes:

[0173] Acid dye / acid complex dye / %(owf)

[0174] Leveling agent 2~3g / L

[0175] Anti-wrinkle agent 1~2g / L

[0176] Acid release agent 1-2g / L

[0177] Fixing agent 2~4g / L

[0178] Glacial acetic acid 0.5~1.0g / L

[0179] Among them, in the dyeing process of the embodiment of the present invention, auxiliaries and dyes are added at 20-30°C, the temperature is raised to 60°C at 0.5°C / min, the temperature is raised to 80°C at 1°C / min, the temperature is raised to 98°C at 1.5°C / min, and the temperature is kept for 30-40 minutes. The temperature is lowered to 75°C at 1.2°C / min, and the temperature is lowered to 45°C at 1.2°C / min. Hot water washing and cold water washing are carried out, and the color is fixed (50°C, 30 minutes). After hot water washing and cold water washing, the dyeing is completed and the product is taken out of the tank.

[0180] e. Organize and shape

[0181] Temperature 170-180℃, time 30-45s, overfeed 10%-30%.

[0182] In addition to the general processing flow mentioned above, woven and knitted fabrics can also be raised during the dyeing and finishing stage to produce elastic raised fabrics. This type of raised fabric has the advantages of good elasticity, soft touch, good warmth retention, and comfort.

[0183] The raising of fabrics is mainly done by mechanically pulling up the fibers on the surface of the yarn. During the mechanical raising process, hard objects such as the needle tips of the running needle rollers or abrasive particles are close to the fabric. The needle tips are inserted into the fabric surface and produce relative movement with the fabric, which picks out the fibers in the fabric yarn and raises the fabric. In essence, it uses forced mechanical force to destroy the fiber structure in the fabric. In this process, the smaller the deformation of the fabric after the contact force with the needle tips, the more conducive it is to obtain a stable raising effect. In practice, there are often some areas where the raising effect needs to be improved, such as insufficient pile density, a weak feel, poor elasticity, and uneven and unequal surface pile.

[0184] Different processing procedures are adopted according to the type of fabric, processing objectives, etc.

[0185] For cotton fabrics, the following process can be adopted:

[0186] Grey fabric inspection → singeing → cold stacking → washing → drying → mercerizing → dyeing → shaping (applying raising agent) → shearing → shaping → pre-shrinking

[0187] For chemical fiber fabrics, the following process can be adopted:

[0188] Grey fabric inspection → loose open width pre-shrinkage → pre-setting → dyeing → application of raising agent → raising → setting → softening and drying → inspection

[0189] Or grey cloth inspection → open width pre-treatment → drying (applying raising agent) → raising → pre-forming → dyeing → finished product shaping → inspection

[0190] Or grey cloth inspection → open width pre-treatment → pre-forming → dyeing → drying (applying raising agent) → raising → post-setting → inspection.

[0191] The specific raising process is as follows:

[0192] The raising process can be completed on a plucking and shearing machine. First, a high-speed steel needle roller is used to hook the fibers in the fabric, forming a thick layer of hair on the surface of the cloth. The plucking hair is generally longer. Then, the uneven lengths of the plucking hair are sheared flat, and the surface loops are cut and trimmed.

[0193] Plugging is a key step in controlling the raising effect. This is achieved using a plugging machine with a cylinder speed of 25-100 rpm and a fabric speed of 10-40 m / min. Adjusting the floating roller properly controls fabric tension to prevent wrinkles. Maintaining fabric tension is crucial; loose fabric can easily cause yarn snags. Adjusting the direction and speed of the plucking drum ensures optimal raising, increases plucking flexibility, and diversifies the plucking effect.

[0194] The following will use different embodiments to illustrate the process of making different fabrics.

[0195] Example 1

[0196] 70D / 48f nylon DTY and 30D TPU fiber filaments are interwoven into double-sided cotton interlock fabric, with a finished weight of 240g / m 2 , width 150cm, coil length 132mm / 50 coils, TPU coil length 45mm / 50 coils.

[0197] Dyeing and finishing process flow: cloth sorting → cylinder assembly → flat width shrinking → pre-forming → dyeing → finished product shaping.

[0198] Open width shrinking process:

[0199] Degreaser 2.0g / L

[0200] Temperature 60~80℃

[0201] Speed ​​16-18 m / min

[0202] Tension 15% to 20%

[0203] The preforming process preforming temperature is usually controlled at 185 ° C, the speed is 25m / min, and the overfeed is 25%.

[0204] Finished product shaping process

[0205] Temperature 155℃, speed 25m / min, overfeed 25%.

[0206] Example 2

[0207] The dyeing and finishing process of 20D / 17f nylon DTY+20D spandex 50G high needle weft-knitted stretch double-sided fabric is as follows:

[0208] Grey cloth inspection → overflow machine scouring → pre-forming → overflow machine scouring before dyeing → overflow dyeing → post-forming → finished product inspection.

[0209] a. Overflow machine refining: Before refining, unwind and loosen the cloth to reduce internal stress.

[0210] b. Pre-setting, add 10g / L of high temperature oxidant,

[0211] Setting temperature: 170℃

[0212] Time: 25-30 seconds

[0213] c. Post-setting: use a needle-clip setting machine with a setting process temperature of 160-165°C, a speed of 20-25m / min, a softener of 12-15g / L, an overfeed of 10-25%, and a set width slightly larger than the finished product by 2-3cm.

[0214] Example 3

[0215] Warp-knitted nylon-spandex stretch bubble fabric, 40D / 34f nylon matte FDY, 20D / 6f nylon semi-gloss FDY; TPU fiber 30D filament.

[0216] RSE4-1 Raschel machine (Karl Mayer, Germany), gauge 32 needles / 25.4 mm, width 472.4 in (186″), number of guide bars 3, speed 1200 rpm.

[0217] a. The heavy warp structure is a coil formed on two knitting needles at the same time. The large range of motion is prone to skein yarn, resulting in increased yarn breakage. Therefore, the machine speed cannot be too fast and should be kept in the range of 1200-1600r / min.

[0218] b. The warp let-off of the middle comb GB2 should be properly tightened to increase the tension. At the same time, the warp let-off of the back comb spandex should be tightened as much as possible to highlight the bubble effect.

[0219] c. To avoid coil loosening, the number of GB2 roots is controlled within 15; the bubble forming width of GB1 is controlled within the range of 0.5 to 1.0 cm. In order to achieve a clear bubble forming effect and a good concave-convex effect, the number of bubble roots is set to 25% to 50% of the total number of roots.

[0220] d. During shaping, it is necessary to reasonably control the longitudinal density and the machine speed. The process is: the pre-shaping temperature is 185℃, the time is 27s, and the overfeed is 15%.

[0221] Example 4

[0222] Tricot fabric, 40D / 28F matte high-stretch nylon (GB2), black TPU fiber 40D filament (GB1), using a 130-inch, 32-gauge HKS2-SE KARL-MAYER warp knitting machine. The weave structure and yarn threading are as follows:

[0223] Example 5

[0224] Horizontal wick stretch fabric

[0225] Machine conditions: double-sided circular knitting machine, cylinder diameter 864mm, machine gauge 28 needles / 25.4mm, number of routes 96.

[0226] Raw materials: 100D polyester low-elastic yarn, 70D polyester triangle shaped yarn, 70D nylon yarn, TPU fiber 40D filament.

[0227] Needle arrangement: upper and lower needles are 1+1 ribbing needles.

[0228] Yarn threading sequence: 1st thread: spandex and polyester low-stretch yarn; 2nd to 5th threads: polyester triangular shaped yarn; 6th thread: polyester low-stretch yarn; 7th to 9th threads: polyester triangular shaped yarn; 10th thread: spandex and polyester low-stretch yarn; 11th to 14th threads: nylon yarn; 15th thread: polyester low-stretch yarn; 16th to 18th threads: nylon yarn. Every 18 threads constitute a complete threading cycle.

[0229] Example 6

[0230] Warp knitted nylon-spandex fleece fabric

[0231] 40D / 36f nylon, 40D / 12f nylon, 40D TPU filament, using a 130-inch 32E COP3 warp knitting machine, the finished product width is 1.5m and the weight is 240g

[0232] After pre-treatment, the fabric is dried at a temperature not exceeding 130°C. The raising machine is a Lafer ULTRA-SOFT machine, using looping card clothing, and the process is performed three times. The finished fabric has a uniform pile and a soft feel. Compared to similar spandex fabrics, the fabric's snagging and pilling performance is also improved by 0.5 levels.

[0233] Example 7

[0234] Twill(16 s ×16 s +70D, cotton+TPU fiber), the process flow is: singeing → hot water boiling → cold padding (de-boiling and bleaching) → open width relaxation and washing → drying → shaping → mercerizing → dyeing and printing → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0235] a. Stretch yarn is very easy to curl and wrinkle, so the cold pad-batch process is used for desizing, scouring and bleaching. Before the cold pad-batch treatment, a small amount of desizing enzyme is added to 80-90℃ hot water to shrink the width to a constant value.

[0236] b. Pre-forming is carried out before mercerizing, and process parameters such as forming temperature, time, width, etc. are strictly controlled.

[0237] c. In order to maintain good elasticity and dimensional stability, loose equipment is used in each process.

[0238] Example 8

[0239] Weft-stretched Gongbu (16 s ×16 s +70D, 115×56, 4 / 1, cotton+TPU fiber) The process flow is: pre-shrinkage → singeing → cold padding (de-scalding and bleaching) → washing → drying → shaping → mercerizing → dyeing → stentering finishing → pre-shrinkage → finished product.

[0240] a. Firstly, the grey cloth is shaped and desized by enzyme, and then cold rolling and scouring are carried out. The shaping temperature is 175℃, and the caustic soda concentration in the cold batch scouring and bleaching liquid is 20g / L.

[0241] b. During pre-shrinkage, the temperature is gradually raised to 90-95℃, and a lower alkali concentration is used. An appropriate amount of penetrant and scouring agent is added. After sufficient hot water washing, the cold pad-batch process is used to remove the slurry and impurities, so that the semi-finished product can meet the requirements of subsequent processing.

[0242] c. To solve the shrinkage problem, a high temperature of 180°C is used during shaping, the time is controlled at 25 to 30 seconds, the width is set 5 to 7 cm larger than the finished product width, and the process parameters of the shrinking machine are adjusted according to the shrinkage rate in the warp and weft directions before shrinkage.

[0243] Example 9

[0244] Weft elastic fabric(16 s ×16 s +70D, 44×40, flax+TPU fiber), the process flow is singeing → scouring (secondary) → chlorine bleaching → oxygen bleaching → singeing → mercerizing → shaping → dyeing → resin finishing → shaping → pre-shrinkage → finished product.

[0245] a. For secondary singeing, multiple burners, high speed of 130-135m / min and low flame are adopted to prevent over-burning. At the same time, the singeing quality can reach level 4-5.

[0246] b. In order to reduce bleaching pressure and elasticity loss, a two-step scouring process is adopted (the first caustic soda concentration is 35-40g / L, and the second caustic soda concentration is 40-45g / L).

[0247] c. A chlorine-oxygen double bleaching process is used to remove the hemp bark.

[0248] d. Mercerizing alkali concentration is 160-180g / L.

[0249] e. The setting temperature is controlled at 175-180℃.

[0250] f. Use amino silicone oil and low formaldehyde resin for softening and wrinkle-resistant finishing to reduce itching and improve wrinkle-resistant comfort.

[0251] Example 10

[0252] Weft stretch denim(16 s ×32 s / 2+70D, cotton+TPU fiber) process flow is: grey cloth inspection → singeing → desizing → washing → softening → shaping.

[0253] a. Use enzyme desizing process and enhanced water washing and drying.

[0254] b. The processing temperature of the softening machine is 90℃, the heating rate is 3℃ / min, the holding time is 20min, and the product is dropped once.

[0255] Example 11

[0256] Warp and weft double elastic yarn card (32 s / 2+70D×32 s / 2+70D, 100×45, cotton+TPU fiber), the process flow is: grey cloth shaping → singeing → cold pad-batch annealing and bleaching → mercerizing → cold batch dyeing → loose rope washing → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0257] a. Setting condition: 175℃×25s.

[0258] b. In order to prevent wrinkling and curling during steam stacking and damage that affects elasticity, a cold rolling process is adopted.

[0259] c. The caustic soda concentration in the second rolling tank is 150-160 g / L, and the dilute caustic soda concentration is 40-50 g / L. The tension of the cloth stretcher in front of the first rolling mill is 0.2-0.25 MPa, and the tension of the cloth stretcher in front of the second rolling mill is 0.22-0.27 MPa.

[0260] d. After cold-batch dyeing, the fabric is washed with water to restore the warp and weft elasticity to their best condition.

[0261] e. During soft stretching, overfeed is set to 15% to 25%.

[0262] Example 12

[0263] Stretch poplin(30 s ×40 s +70D, 133×72, cotton nylon + TPU fiber) The process flow is: singeing → cold pad-batch bleaching → washing → shaping → dyeing nylon → soaping → dyeing cotton → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0264] a. Singeing speed 140m / min.

[0265] b. Long-term high-concentration alkali treatment will damage the strength of the fabric, so the alkali concentration of the cold-batch process is 18g / L, and the alkali concentration of the mercerizing process is 150-160g / L.

[0266] c. The setting condition is 170℃×40s.

[0267] Example 13

[0268] Warp stretch fabric (fine warp and coarse weft) (150D polyester low-elastic filament + 40D TPU fiber × 10 s Viscose, 75×42), the process flow is: grey cloth → loose pretreatment → dyeing (jet overflow dyeing machine) → finishing (loose short ring drying needle iron hot drawing machine) → finished product.

[0269] a. Adopting the full loose process, especially in the pre-treatment process, it adopts the non-alkaline heat preservation operation under the condition of low water temperature 40℃, so that the residual stress during weaving can be slowly released.

[0270] b. When using the disperse direct one-bath dyeing method, the dyeing temperature must be lowered to 120°C. For products requiring high fastness and bright color, the disperse active one-bath one-step process with high temperature 120°C dyeing and low temperature 60°C fixing is used.

[0271] c. In the whole drawing process, a loose drying and overfeeding whole drawing process should be adopted, with a setting temperature of 170℃, a time of 30 to 40 seconds, and an overfeed of 20 to 25%.

[0272] Example 14

[0273] Three-in-one elastic twill (16 s ×15D polyester stretch yarn×40D TPU fiber, 78×54), the process flow is: light singeing → descaling and bleaching → mercerizing → shaping → dyeing → soft stretching → pre-shrinking → finished product.

[0274] a. The concentration of scouring alkali is 18-20g / L.

[0275] b. The mercerizing and alkali rolling part was modified and an alkali leaching device was installed. The wire separation roller was used to expand the width, and then the fabric was dipped in alkali to prevent wrinkles.

[0276] c. The setting temperature is controlled at 170℃ and the soft stretching temperature is controlled at 150~155℃.

[0277] d. For polyester dyeing, choose low-temperature disperse dyes, and the baking temperature should not exceed 180℃.

[0278] Example 15

[0279] The textile processing flow of weft-stretch plain fabric (50D×40D TPU fiber + 50D nylon DTY) is as follows: yarn covering → warping → weaving → cold stacking → desizing → pre-sizing → dyeing → custom-made → finished product.

[0280] a. The weft yarn is covered with air covering technology, with a twist of 800 twists, a draft ratio of 3.2 times, and a speed of 300m / min.

[0281] b. The weaving speed of the air jet loom is 400r / min, the upper tension is 90kN, the main air jet pressure is 0.4MPa, and the auxiliary air jet pressure is 0.45MPa.

[0282] c. Desizing is done in an open width washing machine with a liquid alkali concentration of 2%, a temperature of 90°C and a treatment time of 20 minutes.

[0283] d. Preset: 165℃×30~35s, overfeed 25~30%).

[0284] e. Dyeing: 98℃×30min.

[0285] f. Set: 160℃×60~65s.

[0286] Example 16

[0287] The textile processing flow of four-way stretch plain fabric (50D nylon DTY×40D TPU fiber+50D nylon DTY×40D TPU fiber) is as follows: yarn covering → sizing → warping → weaving → cold stacking → desizing → pre-sizing → dyeing → custom-made → finished product.

[0288] a. The warp and weft yarns are covered by mechanical covering process, with twist of 700 twists, draft ratio of 3.2 times, and speed of 5m / min.

[0289] b. Warping tension 0.2N, speed 300m / min.

[0290] c. The weaving speed of the water jet loom is 400r / min, the upper tension is 75kN, and the weaving is dried at low temperature after completion.

[0291] d. Desizing is carried out using an open-width washing machine with a liquid alkali concentration of 2%, a temperature of 90°C, and a treatment time of 20 minutes.

[0292] e. Preset: 165℃×30~35s, overfeed 25~30%).

[0293] f. Staining: 98℃×30min.

[0294] g. Duration: 160×60~65s.

[0295] Example 17

[0296] Weft-stretch taslon (70D nylon DTY×70D TPU fiber+70D nylon DTY), process flow: cold stacking → desizing → pre-sizing → dyeing → customizing → finished product.

[0297] a. Cold stacking treatment, liquid alkali concentration is 7-8%, roll and stack for 24 hours.

[0298] b. Desizing is done in an open width washing machine with a liquid alkali concentration of 2%, a temperature of 90°C and a treatment time of 20 minutes.

[0299] c. Preset: 170℃×30~35s, overfeed 25~30%).

[0300] d. Staining: 98℃×30min.

[0301] e. Temperature: 165℃×60~65s.

[0302] Compared with the same type of spandex fabric, this embodiment can improve the air permeability of the fabric and reduce the ultraviolet transmittance.

[0303] Example 18

[0304] Four-way stretch taslon in warp and weft (70D TPU fiber + 70D nylon DTY × 70D TPU fiber + 70D nylon DTY), process flow: pre-shrinkage → pre-setting → dyeing → finishing.

[0305] a. Pre-shrinkage: Use open-width washing machine, 1.6-2% liquid alkali and desizing agent, temperature 80℃, treatment for 20 minutes.

[0306] b. Preset: temperature 130-140℃×30-35s, overfeed 25-30%.

[0307] c. Staining: 98℃×30min.

[0308] d. Temperature setting: 165℃×60~65s, overfeed 25%.

[0309] Compared with the same type of spandex fabric, this embodiment can improve the air permeability of the fabric and reduce the ultraviolet transmittance.

[0310] Example 19

[0311] Weft knitted cotton stretch velvet fabric(32 s Cotton yarn + 40D TPU fiber), weft knitted 34" terry fabric. Process flow: Greige fabric → pre-treatment → dyeing → washing → drying (with napping agent) → raising → stentering → inspection

[0312] a. Raising equipment model Z5S, speed 10m / min, card clothing: curved needles 27 / 31, straight needles 31;

[0313] b. Raising times: 3 times on the front and 2 times on the back.

[0314] Example 20

[0315] Weft-knitted stretch velvet fabric (40D nylon + 40D TPU fiber), warp-knitted 32-knit fabric. Process flow: Greige fabric inspection → Open-width pre-treatment → Pre-setting → Dyeing → Drying (with raising agent) → Raising → Post-setting → Inspection.

[0316] a. Use Lafer Ultrasoft plucking machine at a speed of 18m / min;

[0317] b.Raising times: 2 times on the front side and 2 times on the back side.

[0318] The finished fabric has good pile uniformity and a soft hand feel. Compared with the same type of spandex fabric, it can also improve the fabric's snagging and pilling performance by 0.5 level.

[0319] The above describes in detail the preferred embodiments of the present invention. It should be understood that those skilled in the art can make numerous modifications and variations based on the concepts of the present invention without inventive effort. Therefore, any technical solutions that can be derived by those skilled in the art through logical analysis, reasoning, or limited experimentation based on the concepts of the present invention and the prior art should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.

Claims

1. An elastic fabric, characterized in that: TPU fiber is used as the elastic fiber material of elastic fabrics. By using TPU fiber to process it into elastic yarn, through the structural design of elastic yarn and fabric, combined with the corresponding processing textile dyeing and finishing process, a woven fabric with excellent elasticity and good feel is obtained.

2. The elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein: The fineness of the TPU fiber is set to 8 dtex to 1200 dtex, and the number of strands is set to 1 to 50.

3. The elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein: The TPU fiber uses aliphatic diol as a chain extender. During the spinning process, low-temperature drawing allows the fiber macromolecular chains to be highly oriented, and the tensile stress is retained inside the fiber, forming a highly oriented, low-crystalline macromolecular conformation.

4. The elastic fabric according to claim 1, wherein: The elastic yarn processed by using TPU fiber includes one of core-spun yarn, covered yarn, twisted yarn and siro yarn.

5. The elastic fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: The core-spun yarn is configured to use TPU filament as the core yarn, which is wrapped with one or more short fibers, and is spun through one or more devices selected from the group consisting of a ring spinning machine, a friction spinning machine, an air spinning machine, a vortex spinning machine, an air-covered yarn machine, a hollow spindle spinning machine, a ring twisting machine, and a special core-spun spinning machine.

6. The elastic fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: The content of the TPU fiber in the elastic yarn is set to 2-60%.

7. The elastic fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: The covering yarn is configured to use TPU filaments as core yarns and be wrapped with synthetic filaments or short fiber yarns, and the stretched TPU filaments are covered in a spiral or curved manner.

8. The elastic fabric according to claim 7, characterized in that: The covered yarn includes single-layer covering and double-layer covering; wherein, in the case of single-layer covering, the overfeed rate is 5% to 10%, and in the case of double-layer covering, the overfeed rate is 10% to 50%.

9. The elastic fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: The twisted yarn is formed by combining and twisting two or more TPU filament yarns with a drafted side and other inelastic yarns.

10. The elastic fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that: The TPU fiber filaments in the combined twisted yarn have the same twist as the outer yarn, and have no obvious core-sheath relationship, but are twisted with each other.

11. The elastic fabric according to claim 4, characterized in that: The siro yarn is a double / multi-component siro yarn spun with TPU filament as the yarn core and natural fiber or synthetic fiber as the outer fiber, wherein the outer fiber is two, namely, siro-spun roving.

12. The elastic fabric according to claim 11, characterized in that: The TPU filament is fed in an active feeding manner at the front roller jaws, and the elasticity and blending ratio of the yarn are controlled by the feeding device.

13. The elastic fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: The weave of the fabric is set according to demand to improve the elasticity of the fabric; when weaving woven fabrics, it is set to one of twill weave or plain weave, and when weaving knitted fabrics, one or more of padding, weft insertion and added yarn are used to weave the ground weave.

14. The elastic fabric according to claim 13, characterized in that: The tightness of the woven fabric is set to be 70% to 90% in the warp direction and 40% to 50% in the weft direction.

15. The elastic fabric according to claim 13, characterized in that: The ratio of the reed width during weaving of the warp and weft bidirectional stretch fabric to the width of the final product is set to 1:0.4-0.7, the warp shrinkage of the loom is between 10% and 25%, and the weft shrinkage is between 30% and 55%.

16. A method for weaving elastic fabric using the elastic fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that: It includes weaving and dyeing and finishing processes, among which weaving includes machine weaving and knitting. The weaving process includes the following steps: first, warp yarn is warped, and then warp yarn is combined after warping, and then ironing yarn, drawing in heddle, reeding, and weaving are completed in sequence, and rolling is performed after weaving is completed.

17. A method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 16, characterized in that: Warp sizing is also included before the warp yarns are combined.

18. The method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 16, wherein: After weaving is completed, low-temperature drying is also included.

19. The method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 16, wherein: The control parameters in the warp warping process include tension, hairiness and unwinding tension; the tension is set to the drawing tension of the warp head, which is tension coefficient T1×yarn fineness×number of warping strips, where the T1 value is set to 0.1-0.3; the unwinding tension is set to the tension of the yarn unwound from the yarn tube, which is tension coefficient T2×yarn fineness, with an error range of ±2 cN, and the T2 value is set to 0.08-0.

24.

20. The method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 16, wherein: The dyeing and finishing process includes heat setting, pre-treatment wet processing, dyeing / printing, and tenter setting; or pre-treatment wet processing, heat setting, dyeing / printing, and tenter setting.

21. The method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 16, wherein: During knitting, the TPU filaments are placed in the fabric in a suspended arc shape. The coils formed by long needles and short needles change in an alternating sequence. The extension lines of two adjacent horizontal rows of coils are arranged in a cross checkerboard pattern, thereby hindering the displacement of the yarn in the longitudinal height direction, increasing the loop distance and reducing the loop height.

22. The method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 16, wherein: The knitted fabrics include rib fabrics, single-sided fabrics and double-rib fabrics.

23. The method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 20, wherein: The dyeing and finishing process also includes a raising process to produce an elastic raised fabric. The raising process is arranged after dyeing / printing, and the fabric is shaped after the raising process is completed.

24. The method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 20, wherein: The dyeing and finishing process also includes a raising process to produce an elastic raised fabric. The raising process is arranged after the pre-treatment wet process, and dyeing / printing is performed after the raising process is completed.

25. A method for weaving elastic fabric according to claim 23 or 24, characterized in that: The raising process includes raising and plucking. Specifically, the fibers in the fabric are hooked out by a high-speed steel needle roller to form a thick layer of hairiness on the cloth surface, and the surface loops are cut and trimmed; and then the hairiness is plucking by using a plucking machine.

Images