Method for hair volume reduction

Abstract

This invention belongs to the field of hair treatment compositions; in particular, it relates to methods for reducing hair volume. Despite the existence of prior art, there remain opportunities to enhance the conditioning benefits delivered via hair treatment compositions. Therefore, one object of this invention is to provide a method for maintaining shape and reducing curl even after exposure to moisture and washing hair. It has been found that reduced hair curl and retention of hair shape, even after exposure to moisture, can be achieved by using N-formyl amino acids.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of hair treatment compositions; in particular, it relates to a method for reducing hair volume. Background Technology

[0002] Frizz is generally considered to be hair that stands upright or curls independently, not aligned with the surrounding hair, creating a wavy or irregular texture that gives hair a voluminous or bushy appearance. Hair typically becomes frizzy on days with humid weather or high moisture levels in the air. As a result, the hair appears dry and frizzy, rather than smooth, shiny, and defined. The appearance of frizz, along with the loss of shine and smoothness, is associated with the perception of poor hair health.

[0003] A common way to provide conditioning benefits to hair is through the use of conditioning agents such as cationic surfactants and polymers, high-melting-point fatty compounds, low-melting-point oils, silicone compounds, and mixtures thereof. These materials deposit on the hair surface, resulting in an undesirable oily feel and appearance.

[0004] US 2016 / 0158128 discloses a wash-off conditioning composition for reducing hair curl, comprising about 0.2% to about 20% of a moisture-controlling material or a mixture of moisture-controlling materials.

[0005] Despite the existence of existing technologies, there remains an opportunity to improve the conditioning benefits delivered via hair treatment compositions.

[0006] Therefore, one object of the present invention is to provide a method for reducing curly hair.

[0007] Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for maintaining hair shape and reducing curl even after exposure to moisture. A further object of the present invention is to provide a method that provides hair shape benefits and reduces curl even after washing the hair. Surprisingly, it has been found that reduced hair curl and maintained hair shape, even after exposure to moisture, can be achieved by using N-formyl amino acids. Summary of the Invention

[0008] Therefore, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a method for reducing hair volume, the method comprising the step of treating the hair with an aqueous treatment composition comprising an aqueous phase containing at least 0.5% by weight of an N-formyl amino acid.

[0009] In the context of this invention, reference to "hair" generally refers to mammalian hair, including scalp hair, facial hair, and body hair, more preferably hair on the human head and scalp.

[0010] These and other aspects, features, and advantages will become apparent to those skilled in the art upon reading the following detailed description and the accompanying claims. For the avoidance of doubt, any feature of one aspect of the invention may be used in any other aspect of the invention. The word “comprising” is intended to mean “including” but not necessarily “consisting of” or “made of”. In other words, the listed steps or options need not be exhaustive. It should be noted that the embodiments given in the following specification are intended to illustrate the invention and not to limit the invention to those embodiments alone. Similarly, unless otherwise indicated, all percentages are weight / weight percentages. Unless in operational and comparative embodiments, or where otherwise expressly indicated, all figures indicating the amount of material or reaction conditions, physical properties of the material, and / or uses in this specification should be understood to be modified by the word “about”. Numerical ranges expressed in “x to y” format should be understood to include both x and y. When multiple preferred ranges are described in “x to y” format for a particular feature, it should be understood that all ranges with different endpoints are also contemplated for combination. Detailed Implementation

[0011] In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a method for reducing hair volume, comprising the step of treating the hair with an aqueous treatment composition comprising an aqueous phase containing an N-formyl amino acid.

[0012] "Aqueous phase" refers to a phase having water as its basis. Therefore, aqueous treatment compositions typically contain at least 60%, preferably at least 65%, more preferably at least 70%, even more preferably at least 75%, and still more preferably at least 80% or even at least 90% water by weight of the total composition. Preferably, the composition contains no more than 99.5%, more preferably no more than 98% water by weight of the total composition. Other organic solvents may also be present, such as lower alkyl alcohols and polyols. Examples of lower alkyl alcohols include C1 to C6 monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol. Examples of polyols include propylene glycol, hexanediol, glycerol, and propanediol. Mixtures of any of the above-mentioned organic solvents may also be used.

[0013] Preferably, the aqueous phase is an aqueous continuous phase. "Aqueous continuous phase" refers to a continuous phase with water as its basis.

[0014] The aqueous treatment composition of the present invention comprises at least 0.5% N-formyl amino acids by weight of the total composition.

[0015] Suitable N-formyl amino acids include standard N-formyl amino acids and their derivatives. Typical examples are N-formylalanine, N-formylproline, N-formylmethionine, N-formylvaline, N-formylleucine, and N-formylglycine. The most preferred N-formyl amino acid is N-formylglycine.

[0016] N-formyl amino acids can be used in free acid form or as salts, such as sodium, potassium, and ammonium salts or lower alkanolamine salts (e.g., mono-, di-, and triethanolamine salts and mono-, di-, and triisopropanolamine salts). Mixtures of the above forms are also suitable.

[0017] Preferably, the N-formyl amino acid is used in the form of a free acid and in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 6%, more preferably 1% to 3%, and most preferably 1.5% to 2.5% by weight of the total composition.

[0018] Shampoo composition

[0019] A particularly preferred aqueous treatment composition for use in the method according to the invention is a shampoo composition.

[0020] Such shampoo compositions will contain one or more cleansing surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair. If the surfactant used as an emulsifier for the silicone component is insufficient to provide adequate cleansing, additional surfactants may be present as additional ingredients. Preferably, the shampoo compositions of the present invention contain at least one additional surfactant (in addition to the surfactant used as an emulsifier for the silicone component) to provide cleansing benefits.

[0021] Suitable cleaning surfactants, which can be used alone or in combination, are selected from anionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. The cleaning surfactant may be the same surfactant as the emulsifier, or it may be different.

[0022] The shampoo compositions according to the invention will generally contain one or more anionic cleansing surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and suitable for topical application to hair.

[0023] Examples of suitable anionic cleaning surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alkyl acyl hydroxyethyl sulfonates, alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosine salts, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates, and α-olefin sulfonates, particularly their sodium, magnesium, ammonium, and mono, di, and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups typically contain 8 to 18 carbon atoms and may be unsaturated. Alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl ether phosphates, and alkyl ether carboxylates may contain 1 to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule.

[0024] Typical anionic cleaning surfactants used in the shampoo compositions of the present invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzene sulfonate, triethanolamine dodecylbenzene sulfonate, sodium cocoyl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, sodium lauryl hydroxyethyl sulfonate, and sodium N-lauryl sarcosinate. The most preferred anionic surfactants are sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (wherein n is 1 to 3), ammonium lauryl sulfate, and ammonium lauryl ether sulfate (n)EO (wherein n is 1 to 3).

[0025] Any mixture of the aforementioned anionic cleaning surfactants may also be suitable.

[0026] In the shampoo compositions of the present invention, the total amount of anionic cleaning surfactants is generally 5 to 30, preferably 6 to 20, more preferably 8 to 16 by weight.

[0027] Shampoo compositions may optionally contain co-surfactants to help impart aesthetic, physical, or cleaning properties to the composition.

[0028] Preferred examples are amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, which may be contained in an amount of 0 to about 8, preferably 1 to 4% by weight. Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include alkylamine oxides, alkyl betaines, alkylamidopropyl betaines, alkyl sulfobetaines (sulfobetaines), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxyglycinates, alkyl amphoteric propions, alkyl amphoteric glycinates, alkylamidopropyl hydroxysulfobetaine, acyl taurate, and acyl glutamate, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have 8 to 19 carbon atoms. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants used in the shampoos of the present invention include laurylamine oxide, propyl cocodimethylsulfonate, and preferably lauryl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, and sodium cocoamphopropionate.

[0029] Another preferred example is a nonionic surfactant, which may be contained in an amount of 0 to 8, preferably 2 to 5% by weight.

[0030] For example, representative nonionic surfactants that may be included in the shampoo compositions of the present invention include aliphatic linear or branched (C8-C5) surfactants. 18 Condensation products of primary or secondary alcohols or phenols with alkyl oxides (usually ethylene oxide, and typically having 6 to 30 alkyl oxide groups).

[0031] Other representative nonionic surfactants include mono- or dialkylalkanolamides. Examples include coconut oil mono- or diethanolamine or coconut oil mono- or diisopropanolamine.

[0032] Other nonionic surfactants that can be included in the shampoo compositions of the present invention are alkyl polyglucosides (APGs). Typically, APGs are APGs comprising alkyl groups linked (optionally via bridging groups) to one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the formula: RO-(G) n

[0033] Where R is a branched or straight-chain alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated, and G is a sugar group.

[0034] R can represent approximately C5 to approximately C 20 The average alkyl chain length. Preferably, R represents about C8 to about C8. 12 The average alkyl chain length. Most preferably, the R value is between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G can be selected from C5 or C6 monosaccharide residues, and is preferably a glucoside. G can be selected from glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and their derivatives. Preferably, G is glucose.

[0035] The degree of polymerization n can have a value from about 1 to about 10 or greater. Preferably, the value of n is in the range of about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, the value of n is in the range of about 1.3 to about 1.5.

[0036] Other sugar-derived nonionic surfactants that may be included in the shampoo compositions of the present invention include C 10 -C 18 N-alkyl (C1-C6) polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C 12 -C 18 N-methylglucosamides, as described in, for example, WO 92 06154 and US 5 194 639, and N-alkoxy polyhydroxy fatty acid amides, such as C 10 -C 18 N-(3-methoxypropyl)glucamide.

[0037] The shampoo composition may also optionally contain one or more cationic co-surfactants in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10, more preferably from 0.05 to 5, and most preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight.

[0038] In the shampoo compositions of the present invention, the total amount of surfactants (including any co-surfactants and / or any emulsifiers for the silicone components) is generally 0.1 to 50, preferably 5 to 30, more preferably 10 to 25 by weight.

[0039] Conditioner

[0040] The aqueous treatment composition used in the method according to the invention can also be formulated as a conditioner for hair treatment (typically after shampooing) and subsequent rinsing.

[0041] The aqueous treatment compositions of the present invention may also suitably comprise a conditioning gel phase, which can generally be characterized as a gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase consisting of a surfactant bilayer. Such a conditioning gel phase can be formed from cationic surfactants, high-melting-point fatty alcohols, and an aqueous carrier. Typically, these components are heated to form a mixture, which is then shear-cooled to room temperature. During cooling, the mixture undergoes numerous phase transitions, typically producing a gel (Lβ) surfactant mesophase consisting of a surfactant bilayer.

[0042] Examples of suitable cationic surfactants that can be used to form conditioning gel phases include quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants corresponding to the following general formula:

[0043] [N(R 1 (R) 2 (R) 3 (R) 4 )] + (X) -

[0044] Where R 1 R 2 R 3 and R 4 Each is independently selected from (a) an aliphatic group having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or (b) an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl, or alkylaryl group having up to 22 carbon atoms; and X is a salt-forming anion, such as those selected from halide ions (e.g., chloride ions, bromide ions), acetate ions, citrate ions, lactate ions, glycolate ions, phosphate ions, nitrate ions, sulfonate ions, and alkylsulfonate ions.

[0045] In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, aliphatic groups may also contain ether bonds and other groups such as amino groups. Longer-chain aliphatic groups, such as those with about 12 carbons or higher, can be saturated or unsaturated. Specific examples of such quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants having the above general formula are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), cetylpyridine chloride, tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyltrimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow-based trimethylammonium chloride, cocoyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethyldimethylammonium chloride, PEG-2 oil-based ammonium chloride, and salts thereof, wherein chloride ions are replaced by other halide ions (e.g., bromide ions), acetate ions, citrate ions, lactate ions, glycolate ions, phosphate ions, nitrate ions, sulfate ions, or alkyl sulfate ions.

[0046] In preferred types of cationic surfactants having the above general formula, R 1 C 16 To C 22 Saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, alkyl chain, R 2 R 3 and R 4 Each is independently selected from CH3 and CH2CH2OH, preferably CH3. Specific examples of such preferred quaternary ammonium cationic surfactants for forming the conditioning gel phase are cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (CTAC), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (BTAC), and mixtures thereof.

[0047] Any mixture of the above-mentioned cationic surfactants may also be suitable.

[0048] The content of the cationic surfactant is suitably in the range of 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.2 to 5%, and more preferably 0.25 to 4% (based on the total weight of the composition by weight).

[0049] In the context of this invention, "high melting point" generally refers to a melting point of 25°C or higher. Typically, the melting point range is from 25°C to 90°C, preferably from 40°C to 70°C, and more preferably from 50°C to about 65°C.

[0050] High-melting-point fatty alcohols can be used as a single compound or as a blend or mixture of at least two high-melting-point fatty alcohols. When a blend or mixture of fatty alcohols is used, the melting point refers to the melting point of the blend or mixture.

[0051] Suitable fatty alcohols of this type have the general formula R-OH, where R is an aliphatic carbon chain. Preferably, R is a saturated aliphatic carbon chain containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably 14 to 30 carbon atoms, and most preferably 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0052] In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, R may also contain ether bonds and other groups such as amino groups.

[0053] Most preferably, the fatty alcohol has the general formula CH3(CH2). n OH, where n is an integer from 7 to 29, preferably from 15 to 21.

[0054] Suitable examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.

[0055] Any mixture of the above-mentioned fatty alcohols may also be suitable.

[0056] The content of fatty alcohol is suitably in the range of 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.1% to 8%, more preferably 0.2% to 7%, and most preferably 0.3% to 6% (by weight based on the total weight of the composition).

[0057] The weight ratio of the cationic surfactant to the fatty alcohol is suitably 1:1 to 1:10, more preferably 1:1.5 to 1:8, and most preferably 1:2 to 1:5.

[0058] Styling composition

[0059] The aqueous treatment composition used in the method according to the invention can also be in the form of a shaped composition.

[0060] Preferred product forms are no-rinse formulations, such as gels, waxes, and creams.

[0061] Available styling options include mousse, spray, and aerosol.

[0062] Such styling products often contain a carrier and further additional components. The carrier and additional components required to formulate such products vary depending on the product type and can be conventionally selected by those skilled in the art. The following is a description of some of these carriers and additional components. The hair care compositions of the present invention may contain a carrier suitable for application to hair or a mixture of such carriers. The carrier is present in the composition at about 0.5% to about 99.5%, preferably about 5.0% to about 99.5%, more preferably about 10.0% to about 98.0%. As used herein, the phrase "suitable for application to hair" means that the carrier will not damage or adversely affect the aesthetics of the hair or cause irritation to the underlying skin.

[0063] The compositions according to the invention comprise buffers or pH adjusters. Preferred buffers or pH adjusters include weak acids and bases, such as glycine / sodium hydroxide, citric acid, lactic acid, succinic acid, acetate, and their salts. Often, mixtures of buffer systems, such as sodium citrate and citric acid, are used.

[0064] Suitable carriers for use with the hair care compositions of the present invention include, for example, those used in hair sprays, mousses, tonics, waters, creams, gels, shampoos, conditioners, and rinses. The choice of a suitable carrier will depend on the specific product to be formulated. Carriers used herein may include a wide range of components conventionally used in hair care compositions. Carriers may contain solvents for dissolving or dispersing the styling compounds used; water, C1-C6 alcohols, lower alkyl acetates, and mixtures thereof are preferred. Carriers may also contain a wide range of other materials, such as acetone, hydrocarbons (e.g., isobutane, hexane, decene), halogenated hydrocarbons (e.g., Freon), and volatile silicones such as cyclomethicone.

[0065] When the hair care composition is a hair spray, hair growth agent, gel, or mousse, preferred solvents include water, ethanol, volatile silicone derivatives, and mixtures thereof. Solvents used in such mixtures may be miscible or immiscible with each other. Mousses and aerosol hair sprays may also use any conventional propellant to deliver the material as foam (in the case of mousse) or as a fine, uniform spray (in the case of aerosol hair spray). Examples of suitable propellants include materials such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, propane, n-butane, or isobutane. Emulsifiers may also be used in hair growth agents or hair spray products with low viscosity. Examples of suitable emulsifiers include nonionic, cationic, anionic surfactants, or mixtures thereof. If such an emulsifier is used, it is preferably present in an amount of about 0.01% to about 7.5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. The propellant content is adjusted as needed, but is typically from about 3% to about 30% by weight based on the total weight of the mousse composition, and from about 15% to about 50% by weight based on the total weight of the aerosol hair spray composition.

[0066] Hair styling waxes, creams, or gels typically also contain structuring agents or thickeners, usually in amounts ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight.

[0067] Suitable spray containers are well known in the art, including conventional non-aerosol pump sprays, i.e., "atomizers", aerosol containers or cans with propellant as described above, and pump-type aerosol containers that use compressed air as propellant.

[0068] The aqueous treatment compositions of the present invention may also incorporate other optional ingredients to enhance performance and / or user acceptability. Suitable optional ingredients include: preservatives, colorants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobial agents, anti-dandruff agents, cationic conditioning polymers, sunscreens, proteins, and hydrolyzed proteins.

[0069] The aqueous treatment compositions of the present invention may also contain adjuvants suitable for hair care. Typically, such ingredients are contained independently in an amount of up to 2%, preferably up to 1% by weight of the total composition. Suitable hair care adjuvants include amino acids, sugars, and ceramides.

[0070] The aqueous treatment compositions used in the methods of the present invention may also incorporate other optional ingredients to enhance performance and / or user acceptability. Suitable optional ingredients include: preservatives, colorants, chelating agents, antioxidants, fragrances, antimicrobial agents, anti-dandruff agents, cationic conditioning polymers, styling ingredients, sunscreens, proteins, and hydrolyzed proteins.

[0071] In the method of the present invention, the hair can be washed with water alone or with water and shampoo before the hair is treated with the aqueous treatment composition.

[0072] In the method of the present invention, washed hair is immersed in an aqueous treatment composition. Generally, any amount of the aqueous treatment composition applied to cover the hair to be treated is sufficient. A smaller amount may be used, for example, if only a portion of the hair or only the ends are to be treated. The aqueous treatment composition is preferably delivered uniformly, for example, by acting from the root end of the hair to the tip.

[0073] Preferably, the hair is soaked in the aqueous treatment composition for 1 to 60 minutes, more preferably 3 to 45 minutes. At the end of the soaking period, it is preferable to dry the hair or allow it to dry without rinsing the aqueous treatment composition from the hair. The soaked hair can be dried by air exposure, by using a heated hair drying appliance, by wiping with an absorbent material, or any combination of these methods.

[0074] Therefore, the aqueous treatment composition can remain in contact with the hair for at least 1 minute after initial application, preferably until the next wash, for example, 24 to 72 hours after initial application.

[0075] The invention is further illustrated by referring to the following non-limiting embodiments.

[0076] Example

[0077] Example 1: The effect of N-formylglycine on hair

[0078] The following steps were performed on a 25cm long, 2g weight dark brown European wavy hair strand:

[0079] Comparison: After the initial wash, soak in water for 30 minutes.

[0080] Comparative Example A: After the initial washing, soak in a 1% glycine aqueous solution for 30 minutes.

[0081] Example 1: Soak in a 1% aqueous solution of N-formylglycine for 30 minutes.

[0082] At the end of the soaking period, the hair strand was kept dry at 20°C and 50% RH. While dry, the hair strand was straightened 5 times with an FHI iron (FHI Brands, 29003 Avenue Sherman Valencia, California 91355 USA). The hair strand was then placed in a humidification chamber at ~30°C / 80% RH for 1 hour, images were captured and analyzed. The percentage benefit relative to their respective water controls is given in Table 1.

[0083] Table 1

[0084]

[0085] As can be seen from the table above, hair strands treated with N-formylglycine maintained their shape and controlled curl even after exposure to high humidity. On the other hand, glycine did not perform better than its control.

[0086] Example 2: The effect of N-formylglycine on hair for sustained and durable volume reduction

[0087] The hair strands from the above examples were then washed and images were captured. It was found that the hair strands treated with N-formylglycine retained a 32% greater benefit compared to the control, demonstrating a lasting and durable benefit of volume reduction. The corresponding benefit of glycine was only -10%.

Claims

1. A method for reducing hair volume, the method comprising the following steps: a. Treating hair with an aqueous treatment composition, the aqueous treatment composition comprising an aqueous phase containing at least 1% by weight of an N-formyl amino acid, wherein the N-formyl amino acid is selected from N-formylalanine, N-formylproline, N-formylmethionine, N-formylvaline, N-formylleucine, and N-formylglycine.

2. The method of claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least 60% by weight water.

3. The method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the N-formyl amino acid is in the form of a free acid.

4. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the N-formyl amino acid is N-formylglycine.

5. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase comprises 1 to 6% by weight of N-formyl amino acids.

6. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase comprises 60 to 98% by weight of water.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase is an aqueous continuous phase.

8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hair is soaked in the aqueous treatment composition for 3 to 45 minutes.

9. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at the end of the soaking period, the hair is dried or allowed to dry without rinsing the aqueous treatment composition from the hair.

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