Cosmetic composition comprising at least one vegetable oil, trihydroxystearin and pigment colouring material

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or treatment for application to the skin, lips and skin appendages of a person, such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails, the cosmetic composition comprises glyceryl trihydroxystearate, at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one vegetable oil and at least one pigmented material. A further object of the invention is a method for making up and / or treating the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks, in particular lips and / or cheeks, in which a composition according to the invention is applied.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for make-up and / or treatment to be applied to the human skin, lips and skin appendages (such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails), the cosmetic composition comprising glyceryl trihydroxystearate, at least one vegetable oil in an amount of at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one pigmentary coloring material. Another object of the present invention is a method for making up and / or treating the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks, in particular the lips and / or cheeks, wherein a composition according to the present invention is applied. Background Art

[0002] Cosmetic compositions for treatment and / or make-up, in particular cosmetic compositions for the lips, have been known for a long time and are available in an increasing number of different forms, ranging from formulations of the viscous fluid type (such as glosses) to solid compositions in stick form (supported or unsupported), compositions in pencil form, or compositions stored in jars.

[0003] Historically, compositions for the lips have generally been anhydrous, but in the past few years, there have been seen make-up compositions for the lips in the form of emulsions.

[0004] To further diversify the product range, there have appeared on the market transparent anhydrous liquid formulations that are more fluid than conventional glosses and that comprise a high oil content.

[0005] However, due to the nature of such compositions, it is complex to introduce a sufficient amount of pigment to obtain a composition that remains stable before application or can be easily rehomogenized and that is easy to apply in a comfortable and non-tacky deposit.

[0006] Likewise, in the case of application to the cheeks, it is desirable to obtain a make-up and / or treatment composition (such as of the blush type) that is non-tacky and non-shiny and that has a satisfactory color rendering.

[0007] In application WO 2022 / 003026, there is described a liquid make-up composition suitable for the skin and / or lips, which composition comprises, in addition to particulate colored material, trihydroxystearin, a polar wax and a high proportion of (i) a polyester oil derived from dimer acid and (ii) a polar oil selected from triglycerides and vegetable oils. This rather viscous composition makes it possible to obtain a deposit that has reasonable tack, is very shiny and retains its gloss well over time. However, it may be desirable to have a composition that deposits finely, is less "present" on the skin and lips, has less tack, and that has a color rendering from matte to satin.

[0008] Thus, there is a need for a cosmetic composition that can be used on the skin (such as the cheeks) and lips, which does not adhere and is easy to apply. However, difficulties have been encountered with this type of composition, especially because the proportion of vegetable oils (which are low-viscosity oils) is very high, and because the composition contains particles, especially coloring materials such as pigments.

[0009] This is because it is not simple to re-homogenize the composition before application under certain conditions. It is conceivable to use stirring devices (such as, for example, beads) in the container. However, these devices are not always available and effective, especially when the composition is very viscous / gelled. The use of beads is also not always convenient or possible, depending on the size of the container in which the composition is present and on the presence or absence of an immersion applicator. Finally, if the composition is non-sticky / gelled, pigments with less interference in its sedimentation can produce a more viscous sediment that is more difficult to re-homogenize.

[0010] It is desired to obtain a composition that is easily re-homogenizable before application without loss of its performance in use. In particular, these compositions must be able to be easily applied in a precise, non-sticky and uniform deposit that does not flow outside the make-up area.

[0011] Finally, cosmetic product formulations that include a high proportion of natural or natural-source raw materials represent one of the new challenges in meeting consumer expectations. Thus, it is desired that the proposed composition be able to maintain a high proportion of natural or natural-source raw materials. Summary of the Invention

[0012] Thus, an object of the present invention is to provide a solution to the above problems.

[0013] The inventors have developed a flowing colored composition, the oil phase of which is particularly transparent or semi-transparent, the composition comprising a high proportion of one or more vegetable oils and glyceryl trihydroxystearate, the composition being stable or easily re-homogenizable, easy to apply and non-sticky. The composition can in particular be applied to the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks. The composition leaves a non-sticky, non-shiny and satin deposit and has a satisfactory color rendering. The composition can be easily re-homogenized before application.

[0014] Thus, an object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, in particular a cosmetic composition for making up and / or treating the skin and / or lips, especially the lips, said cosmetic composition comprising:

[0015] Glyceryl trihydroxystearate;

[0016] At least one vegetable oil in an amount of at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and

[0017] At least one pigmentary coloring material.

[0018] Another object of the present invention is a method for making up and / or treating the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks, in particular the lips and / or cheeks, wherein a composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks.

[0019] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is non-tacky and can be applied to the skin (in particular the cheeks) and the lips. If desired, the cosmetic composition can be easily re-homogenized before application without loss of its performance in use.

[0020] Finally, the cosmetic composition comprises a high proportion of natural raw materials or raw materials of natural origin.

[0021] More particularly, the composition according to the present invention is in fluid form. Detailed Description

[0022] "Fluid" means a specific composition for which the viscosity can be measured, in particular according to the following protocol.

[0023] Viscosity measurement protocol:

[0024] The viscosity is generally measured at 25 °C using a Rheomat RM 200 viscometer equipped with a suitable rotor (in particular n°2), the measurement being carried out 10 minutes after the rotor has rotated in the composition at a shear rate of 200 revolutions per minute (rpm).

[0025] In particular, the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity at 25 °C of less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, preferably less than or equal to 0.7 Pa.s, and advantageously between 0.4 Pa.s and 0.6 Pa.s.

[0026] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is substantially free of liquid polyesters obtained from dimers of unsaturated fatty acids (the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms) and diols. "Substantially free of polyesters" means that the composition according to the present invention comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of polyester relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the present invention is completely free of liquid polyesters obtained from dimers of unsaturated fatty acids (the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms) and diols.

[0027] Liquid polyester means a polyester that starts to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at normal temperature (25 °C). "Unsaturated fatty acid" means a fatty acid comprising from 1 to 6 degrees of unsaturation (carbon-carbon double bonds); mention may in particular be made of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0028] More particularly, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is obtained by a polymerization reaction (in particular an intermolecular dimerization) of at least one unsaturated monocarboxylic acid. In particular, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is obtained from the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids (in particular C16-C22, more particularly C18).

[0029] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of liquid polyesters obtained from diacid dimers obtained by the dimerization of linoleic acid, optionally followed by hydrogenation of the carbon-carbon bonds (in whole or in part, advantageously in whole).

[0030] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of liquid polyesters obtained by reacting the aforementioned acid dimer with at least one diol (more particularly C3-C4, preferably straight-chain, preferably saturated). Particularly preferably, the diols are 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, preferably 1,3-propanediol or 1,4-butanediol.

[0031] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of liquid polyesters obtained by the condensation of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol, or dilinoleic acid and 1,3-butanediol. Such a liquid polyester is in particular a dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer (INCI name), which is in particular sold by Biosynthis under the name 14436H; or a dilinoleic acid / propanediol copolymer (INCI name), which is in particular sold by Biosynthis under the name Green 3000.

[0032] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of liquid polyesters selected from those resulting from the reaction of dilinoleic acid dimer acid with at least propanediol or butanediol.

[0033] Glyceryl trihydroxystearate

[0034] As mentioned above, the composition according to the invention comprises glyceryl trihydroxystearate.

[0035] The compound is a full ester of hydroxystearic acid (also known as 12-hydroxystearic acid) and glycerol (and thus a triglyceride). The INCI name of the compound is glyceryl trihydroxystearate. For example, the compound is sold by Elementis Specialties under the name R or E.

[0036] The compound is used as a gelling agent rather than a wax in the present invention. In other words, in the method for preparing the composition, the compound is advantageously used at a temperature (about 55 °C - 60 °C) that remains below its melting point.

[0037] Preferably, the composition comprises glyceryl trihydroxystearate in an amount between 0.5% and 4% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 4% by weight, and even more advantageously between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Vegetable oil

[0039] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one vegetable oil.

[0040] The vegetable oil is a non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil.

[0041] "Non-volatile oil" means a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa), and whose vapor pressure at 25 °C is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, according to the vapor pressure (OCDE 104), the vapor pressure can be measured according to a static method or by isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method.

[0042] The term "polar hydrocarbon oil" means an oil that is essentially formed or composed of carbon and hydrogen atoms and also includes at least one oxygen and optionally nitrogen atom. Thus, these oils are different from silicone oils.

[0043] Among one or more vegetable oils suitable for practicing the present invention, mention may be made of jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, DHA algal oil, ximeniaoil, bacaba oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia nut oil, passionflower oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosacanina oil, almond oil, linseed oil, polymerized linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, coconut oil, Marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, ambercup pumpkin oil, pith oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candleberry oil, limnanthes oil, black cumin seed oil, buriti oil, sandalwood fruit oil, babassu oil, liquid shea butter fraction, liquid cocoa butter fraction, and mixtures thereof.

[0044] The composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of vegetable oils. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises castor oil, rapeseed oil and / or canola oil.

[0045] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one vegetable oil in an amount of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0046] Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises at least one vegetable oil in an amount between 50 and 95% by weight, more particularly between 55 and 90% by weight, and even more preferably between 60 and 85% by weight.

[0047] Additional liquid compound

[0048] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil different from the vegetable oils previously described, which additional oil is a non-volatile or volatile oil, a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil.

[0049] The term "silicone oil" refers to an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular an oil containing Si-O groups (a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa)).

[0050] The term "volatile oil" means an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure at normal temperature and atmospheric pressure, said non-zero vapor pressure being in particular in the range from 2.66 Pa to 40000 Pa, more particularly in the range from 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, and even more particularly in the range from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

[0051] Additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil

[0052] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil different from the vegetable oils previously described.

[0053] In the meaning of the present invention, "polar oil" means a compound which is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 5 Pa), and which, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, comprises at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

[0054] As non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils different from the vegetable oils previously described, mention may be made of mono- or polyesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms. In all cases, these polyesters comprising at least 17 carbon atoms are different from triglycerides.

[0055] By way of example, mention may be made of mono-esters, di-esters, tri-esters or tetra-esters. For example, non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils different from the vegetable oils previously described may be selected from:

[0056] * mono-esters having in total between 17 and 40 carbon atoms, in particular mono-esters having the formula R1COOR2, in which R1 is the residue of a straight-chain, branched-chain or aromatic fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, which residue is saturated or unsaturated, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular branched-chain, provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, duck sebaceous gland oil (cetyloctanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 -C 15Alcohol benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates of alcohols or polyols, decanoates of alcohols or polyols or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate. Preferably, these are esters of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 is the residue of a straight-chain or branched fatty acid comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular branched, where R1 and R2 are such that R1+R2≥17. Even more particularly, the esters comprise a total of between 17 and 40 carbon atoms. As preferred monoesters, mention may be made of isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate and / or octyldodecyl neopentanoate;

[0057] *Diesters, in particular comprising a total of between 18 and 60 carbon atoms, particularly between 18 and 50 carbon atoms. In particular, diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monohydric alcohols may be used, such as, preferably, diisostearyl malate, or diesters of diols and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglycerol-2 diisostearate (in particular such as the compound sold by Alzo under the commercial reference Dermol DGDIS);

[0058] *Triesters, in particular comprising a total of between 25 and 80 carbon atoms, preferably 25 to 70 carbon atoms, the triesters being alone or in a mixture, in particular such as triesters of tricarboxylic acids, such as trisisostearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; C8-C 60 , preferably C8-C 40 acid triglycerides, in particular saturated, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, trisisostearin (trisisostearic acid triglyceride), or 2-decyl-1-tetradecyl glycerol triglyceride. It should be noted that caprylic / capric triglyceride is sold, for example, by the company Stéarinerie Dubois in the DUB MCT range and C18-36 acid triglyceride is in particular sold by Stéarinerie Dubois under the reference DUB TGI 24. The following are also suitable: polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acid triesters, in particular branched, such as polyglycerol-2 trisisostearate;

[0059] *Tetra-esters, especially those having a total carbon number of at least 35, such as tetra-esters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, for example, such as pentaerythrityl tetranonanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2tetradecanoate; or mixtures thereof

[0060] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil different from the vegetable oils described previously, said additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil being selected from triesters having a total of between 25 and 80 carbon atoms, preferably between 25 and 70 carbon atoms, especially such as triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid; triesters of polyglycerol and branched monocarboxylic acids, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the concentration of one or more additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils different from the vegetable oils described previously is between 1% and 45% by weight, preferably between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 10 and 35% by weight.

[0061] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, relative to the total weight of the composition, the concentration of one or more vegetable oils and one or more additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils is at least 50% by weight, more particularly at least 60% by weight, and even more preferably at least 70% by weight; relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 50% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 60% and 97% by weight, and even more advantageously between 75% and 95% by weight.

[0062] According to a particularly advantageous variant of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of vegetable oils, preferably a mixture of castor oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil and triglyceride of caprylic / capric acid.

[0063] Additional non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oil

[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-polar oil" means an oil selected from hydrocarbons, i.e., an oil selected from liquid compounds containing only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0065] More particularly, non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils may be selected from straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as, for example, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polybutene, polyisobutene, polydecene, mixtures of straight-chain saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C 15 -C 28 squalane, especially squalane of vegetable origin, or paraffin oil.

[0066] Additional non-volatile polysiloxane oil

[0067] The non-volatile polysiloxane oil can be non-phenylated or phenylated, including or not including at least one dimethyl polysiloxane segment.

[0068] The term "phenylated" designates that the oil includes at least one phenyl group in its structure.

[0069] The term "dimethyl polysiloxane segment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, where the group is not located at one and / or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0070] Preferably, the polysiloxane does not contain C2-C3 epoxyalkyl groups or glycerol groups.

[0071] Among non-volatile non-phenylated polysiloxanes, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (INCI name: dimethicone), alkyl dimethyl polysiloxanes including at least one C2-C 24 alkyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Among non-volatile phenylated polysiloxanes containing at least one dimethyl polysiloxane segment, mention may be made of compounds having the following INCI names: trimethylsiloxysilicate phenyl dimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Regarding non-volatile polysiloxanated phenylated polysiloxanes without dimethyl polysiloxane segments, mention may be made of compounds having the following INCI names: phenyl trimethyl polysiloxane and trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, either alone or in mixture.

[0074] Additional volatile polysiloxane oil or hydrocarbon oil

[0075] As examples of volatile polysiloxane oils, particular mention may be made of dimethyl polysiloxanes having a viscosity less than 5 cSt (5×10 -3 mm 2 / s, especially as measured according to ASTM D-445), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethytrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0076] Among volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably non-polar volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, especially:

[0077] -C8-C 16 or C8-C 16Branched alkanes, such as isoparaffins (also known as isomeric alkanes), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane;

[0078] - Straight-chain alkanes, preferably, for example, a mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the number Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the numbers Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 respectively, dodecane n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), a mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Cognis' application WO2008 / 155059, and mixtures thereof.

[0079] Preferably, if the composition comprises one or more volatile or non-volatile polysiloxane oils and / or one or more volatile or non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oils, their proportion does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0080] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise any additional volatile oil or non-volatile polysiloxane oil.

[0081] Additional solid compounds

[0082] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one solid compound (solid at normal temperature and atmospheric pressure), which is more particularly selected from hydrocarbon waxes, pasty hydrocarbon compounds, and mixtures thereof.

[0083] Wax

[0084] In the context of the present invention, "wax" refers to a lipophilic compound that is solid at normal temperature (25 °C), having a melting temperature greater than or equal to 40 °C and less than or equal to 120 °C, more particularly less than or equal to 90 °C.

[0085] In the context of the present invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) is the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in the thermal analysis (DSC) described in standard ISO 11357-3:1999.

[0086] The melting point of solid fats can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, a calorimeter sold by TA Instruments under the trade name "DSC 2000" with "TA UniversalAnalysis" software.

[0087] The measurement protocol is as follows:

[0088] Place 5 mg of the wax sample in a crucible and subject it to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C per minute, then cool it from 120 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C per minute, and finally subject it to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 120 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C per minute. During the second temperature increase, measure the melting point of the solid fat, which corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve.

[0089] More particularly, the waxes can be selected from: polar waxes different from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, in particular alcohol waxes; esters such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin such as beeswax, lanolin, sunflower, candelilla, carnauba, rice bran, lignite, hydrogenated jojoba oil; waxes produced by ester hydrogenation, the ester being obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of plant origin and vegetable oils; waxes having the formula R1COOR2, where R1 and R2 are aliphatic straight-chain, branched-chain or cyclic chains, the number of atoms in these chains being from 10 to 50, these chains may contain heteroatoms, in particular oxygen, and the melting temperature of the wax is from 40 °C to 120 °C; esters of saturated C 16 -C 30 carboxylic acids with part or all (preferably all) of glycerol, such as glyceryl tristearate or glyceryl tribehenate, and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Also mention may be made of non-polar hydrocarbon waxes produced by petroleum conversion (in other words, consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms), such as, for example, polyethylene wax, polymethylene wax (synthetic wax, Fischer-Tropsch wax), these waxes being alone or in mixtures.

[0091] If the composition comprises at least one wax, the proportion of such compounds does not exceed 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain any wax compounds or polysiloxanated paste compounds.

[0093] Paste compound

[0094] Within the meaning of the present invention, "paste compound" means a lipophilic compound having a liquid part and a solid part at a temperature of 25 °C. Thus, the paste compound can have an initial melting point of less than 25 °C.

[0095] The melting point of the paste fat is determined according to the same principle as previously detailed for the wax. However, in the case of the paste compound, the measurement protocol is as follows:

[0096] A 5 mg pasty fat sample placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 10 °C / minute, then cooled from 100 °C to -20 °C at a cooling rate of 10 °C / minute, and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20 °C to 100 °C at a heating rate of 5 °C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak apex of the curve that represents the change in absorption power difference with temperature. It should be noted that the liquid weight fraction of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the melting enthalpy consumed at room temperature to the melting enthalpy of the pasty fat. The melting enthalpy of the pasty fat is the enthalpy consumed when the pasty fat changes from a solid state to a liquid state. When the entire mass of the pasty fat is in the form of solid crystals, the pasty fat is said to be in the solid state. When the entire mass of the pasty fat is in the liquid form, the pasty fat is said to be in the liquid state. The melting enthalpy of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat from a solid state to a liquid state. The melting enthalpy is expressed in J / g. The melting enthalpy of the pasty fat is equal to the area under the obtained thermogram curve.

[0097] Preferably, such or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are selected from petrolatum; vegetable butters such as, in particular, mango, shea, cupuacu, murumuru, cocoa, babassu and jojoba butters; fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils such as, for example, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated copra oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils (such as products with the INCI name hydrogenated vegetable oil), partially hydrogenated olive oil; hydrogenated castor oil and C 16 -C 22 esters of fatty acids, bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2; products with the INCI name hydrogenated coconut glycerides; dimers of diacyl alcohols and / or esters of diacyl alcohols (such as, for example, products with the following INCI names: bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytyl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate, phytosteryl / isostearyl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimer dilinoleate), hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate, and mixtures thereof.

[0098] If the composition according to the invention comprises any of them, their proportion, relative to the total weight of the composition, does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 3% by weight, and advantageously does not exceed 1% by weight.

[0099] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of wax. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of pasty compounds. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of wax and pasty compounds. "Substantially free of" means that the composition contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of wax and / or pasty compounds.

[0100] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of wax. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of paste compounds. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is completely free of wax and paste compounds.

[0101] Pigment coloring material

[0102] The composition according to the invention comprises a pigment coloring material. Thus, the coloring material is selected from powdered coloring materials such as mineral pigments, nacre and organic pigments.

[0103] The term "pigment" should be understood to mean white or colored mineral or organic particles which are insoluble in aqueous solutions and which are intended to color the composition and / or the resulting deposit.

[0104] Relative to the weight of the composition, the coloring material may be present in the composition in an amount in the range of 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.8% to 3% by weight.

[0105] Mineral pigment

[0106] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are selected from mineral pigments.

[0107] "Mineral pigment" means any pigment conforming to the definition in the chapter on inorganic pigments of the Ullmann encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrated chromium and iron blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders (such as aluminum powder and copper powder). The following mineral pigments can also be used: mixtures of Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

[0108] The size of the pigments which can be used in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the size of the pigments is characterized in that D50 is greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm. By means of a commercially available MasterSizer from Malvern A particle size analyzer measures size through static light diffusion, enabling the understanding of the particle size distribution of all particles within a wide range from 0.01 μm to 1000 μm. The data is processed according to the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from sub-micron to multi-micron and enables the determination of the "effective" diameter of the particles. This theory is described in particular in Chapters 9 and 10 of the work "Light Scattering by Small Particles" by Van de Hulst, H.C., Wiley, New York, 1957. D50 represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles have.

[0109] In the context of the present invention, more particularly, the mineral pigments are iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, which are sold, for example, by Miyoshi Kasei under the number for sale.

[0110] As mineral pigments that can be used in the present invention, nacre can also be cited.

[0111] The term "nacre" should be understood to mean any shaped iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles, which are produced or synthesized in particular by certain mollusks in their shells and which exhibit a color effect through optical interference.

[0112] Nacre can be selected from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic coloring material, and bismuth oxychloride-based pearlescent pigments. This can also relate to mica particles having at least two consecutive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials superimposed on their surfaces. As an example of nacre, mention may also be made of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride. More particularly, nacre can have yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, and / or copper color or sparkle.

[0113] Among the pigments that can be used according to the present invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from the simple conventional hue effect, i.e., the uniform and stable effect produced by conventional coloring materials (such as, for example, monochromatic pigments). For the purposes of the present invention, "stable" means the absence of an effect where the color changes with the viewing angle or in response to temperature changes. For example, such materials can be selected from particles with metallic sparkle, angle-changing colorants, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, fluorescent brighteners, and fibers (especially interference-type fibers). Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide a simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the present invention.

[0114] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

[0115] According to another specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. Pigments of this type are particularly advantageous. Since they are treated with hydrophobic compounds, they exhibit a predominant affinity for the oil phase, which can then transport them. The coating can also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0116] According to the invention, "coating" of the pigments according to the invention generally means a total or partial surface treatment of the pigments by surface reagents absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigments.

[0117] The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercially available products can also be used.

[0118] The surface reagent can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigment by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction or formation of covalent bonds. According to a variant, the surface treatment consists of coating of the pigment. The coating can represent from 0.1% by weight to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% by weight to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment. For example, before incorporating the particles into the other components of the composition, the liquid surface reagent can be adsorbed onto the surface of the solid particles by simply mixing while stirring the particles and said surface reagent (optionally with heating), thereby effecting the coating. For example, the coating can be effected by a chemical reaction between the surface reagent and the surface of the solid pigment particles and the formation of covalent bonds between the surface reagent and the particles. This method is particularly described in patent US4,578,266. The chemical surface treatment can consist of diluting the surface reagent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigment in this mixture and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surface reagent is deposited on the surface of the pigment.

[0119] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound selected from polysiloxane surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoropolysiloxane surfactants; metal soaps; n-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearoyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural waxes of vegetable or animal origin; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0120] According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

[0121] Organic pigment

[0122] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the pigment coloring material is an organic, synthetic or natural pigment or a pigment of natural origin.

[0123] "Organic pigment" means any pigment that conforms to the definition in the chapter on organic pigments in the Ullmann Encyclopedia. Organic pigments can in particular be selected from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinon, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone compounds.

[0124] For example, one or more organic pigments can be selected from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments compiled with numbers CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160 in the Color Index, yellow pigments compiled with numbers CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 in the Color Index, green pigments compiled with numbers CI 61565, 61570, 74260 in the Color Index, orange pigments compiled with numbers CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105 in the Color Index, red pigments compiled with numbers CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470 in the Color Index, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives (as described in patent FR 2 679 771).

[0125] The pigment can also be in the form of a composite pigment as described in patent EP 1 184 426. In particular, these composite pigments can consist of particles that include an inorganic core at least partially covered by an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigment to the core.

[0126] The pigment can also be a paint.

[0127] The term paint means an insoluble coloring material adsorbed on insoluble particles, and the resulting assembly remains insoluble during use.

[0128] The inorganic substrate on which the coloring material is adsorbed is, for example, alumina, silica, calcium borosilicate and sodium, or calcium aluminoborosilicate, and aluminum.

[0129] Among the organic coloring materials, carmine can be mentioned. Products known by the following names can also be listed: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI15985), D&C Green (CI 61570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42090). As an example of a lacquer, a product known by the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1) can be listed.

[0130] Additional coloring materials

[0131] Optionally, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one coloring material preferably selected from fat-soluble coloring materials.

[0132] The term "coloring material" generally refers to natural or synthetic organic compounds that are soluble in the oil phase or solvents miscible with the oil phase, or soluble in the aqueous phase or water-alcohol phase and capable of coloring.

[0133] Lipid-soluble coloring material

[0134] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fat-soluble coloring material" refers to any natural or synthetic organic compound that is soluble in the oil phase or solvents miscible with the oil phase and capable of coloring.

[0135] As fat-soluble coloring materials suitable for the present invention, the following fat-soluble coloring materials can be specifically mentioned: such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red and Sudan Brown.

[0136] As an illustration of natural fat-soluble coloring materials, the following may be specifically mentioned: carotenoids such as β-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinoline yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; rocou, curcumin; quinizarine (quinizarine, Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-di-p-toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, quinizarine green SS) and chlorophylls.

[0137] Alcohol / polyol

[0138] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one straight-chain or branched saturated alcohol having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, more especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and comprising one or two hydroxyl (OH) functional groups.

[0139] One or more aliphatic monohydroxylated alcohols may be especially selected from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, or mixtures thereof.

[0140] More especially, the dihydroxylated alcohols (diols) are selected from diols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, octylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol and dipropylene glycol.

[0141] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one diol.

[0142] If the composition comprises such a diol, then more especially, the alcohol content varies between 0.5% by weight and 6% by weight, preferably between 0.8% by weight and 5% by weight, even more advantageously between 1% by weight and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Water

[0144] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water in a proportion of not more than 5% by weight, especially not more than 2% by weight, more especially not more than 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0145] Preferably, the composition is anhydrous.

[0146] adjuvant

[0147] In the context of the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one adjuvant selected from those commonly used in the cosmetic field, in particular for cosmetic compositions and / or compositions for treating the skin and lips.

[0148] By way of example, mention may be made of preservatives, vitamins, antioxidants, hydrating agents, fragrances, fillers, water-soluble coloring materials or fungicides.

[0149] These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not alter the properties required of the composition according to the invention.

[0150] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble coloring material" means any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound that is soluble in an aqueous phase or a water-miscible solvent and is capable of coloring. In particular, the term water-soluble is intended to characterize the ability of the compound to dissolve in water at a concentration of at least equal to 0.1 g / L measured at 25 °C (to obtain a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or colorless). In particular, the solubility is greater than or equal to 1 g / L.

[0151] For water-soluble coloring materials, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble coloring materials such as, for example, DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410, Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Red 40 (CI: 16035), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

[0152] By way of illustration and not limitation of the sources of water-soluble coloring materials that can be used in the framework of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of those of natural origin such as extracts of carmine, cochineal, beet, grape, carrot, tomato, rocou, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.

[0153] Thus, water-soluble coloring materials are, in particular, carminic acid, betaine, anthocyanins, enocyanin, lycopene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein, xanthophyll, cryptoxanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, taxaxanthin, canthaxanthin, chlorophylls, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The water-soluble coloring materials may also be copper sulfate, iron, water-soluble sulfopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, disodium tartrazine, and disodium fuchsine.

[0155] From a food perspective, some of these water-soluble coloring materials are specifically recognized. As examples of these colorants, mention may be made more particularly of the colorants numbered with food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140, and E141 in the carotenoid family.

[0156] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the water-soluble coloring material is selected from the sodium salts of yellow 6, yellow 5, red 6, red 33, and red 40.

[0157] Depending on the nature of the ingredients used, the product according to the invention can advantageously be used as a cosmetic product for the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks. In particular, the product according to the invention can have the form of a foundation, blush, lipstick, anti-wrinkle product, or eye contour, eye liner, eyeshadow, or cosmetic product for the body.

[0158] According to another aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly, comprising:

[0159] i) a container defining a compartment, the container being closed by a closing element; and

[0160] ii) a composition according to the invention arranged in the compartment.

[0161] The container can be of any suitable shape. It can in particular be in the form of a bottle (such as those for applying liquid lipsticks), tube, jar, box, case, or housing. Preferably, the container is sealed.

[0162] The closing element can be in the form of a removable cap, lid, seal, tearable strip, or capsule, particularly of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. The closing element can also be in the form of an element providing selective closure of the container, particularly a pump or valve, such as, for example, a check valve. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is provided in a roll-on container.

[0163] Another object of the present invention is a method for applying makeup and / or treatment to the skin and / or lips, in particular to the lips and / or cheeks, wherein the composition according to the present invention is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks.

[0164] The examples below are given by way of illustration and are not intended to limit the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, percentages are weight percentages (% w / w) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0165] The measurement of viscosity is carried out according to the following protocol:

[0166] A sufficient amount of the composition is placed in a stainless steel container with a depth of 100 microns.

[0167] Then, if necessary, the composition is leveled before measurement.

[0168] The container is set to dry at room temperature for 1 hour.

[0169] The equipment used is a TAXT2i texture analyzer. The clamp mounted on the device holds an AU4G cylinder with a diameter of 6 mm, and a tip made of a smooth beige material mimicking the skin is adhered to the end of the cylinder. The tip has the same diameter and a thickness of 2 mm.

[0170] Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol. The measurement is never carried out at the same point on the sample.

[0171] The compression test parameters with a holding time are as follows:

[0172] Approach speed (or pre-speed) 1 mm / second

[0173] Speed (from contact detection) 0.1 mm / second

[0174] Force (and corresponding pressure) 0.283 N (i.e., 0.01 MPa)

[0175] Contact time 3 seconds

[0176] Withdrawal speed (or post-speed) 0.1 mm / second.

[0177] In addition, the brightness of the composition is evaluated by visual observation.

[0178] Example 1 of the lip balm according to the present invention

[0179] The following compositions according to the present invention are prepared according to the following protocol:

[0180] The oil, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate and triglyceride are mixed and then heated at 55 °C - 60 °C.

[0181] When the mixture is homogeneous at 55 °C - 60 °C, glyceryl trihydroxystearate is introduced with strong stirring;

[0182] It is left under stirring for 15 minutes and then the coloring material is introduced in the form of a pigment homogenate (before mixing some oil with the pigment);

[0183] The diol is added and mixing is carried out until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

[0184] The composition is packaged in a glossy container provided with an immersion applicator.

[0185] [Table 1]

[0186]

[0187] A relatively fluid composition is obtained. Measured according to the protocol of the present specification, the viscosity of the composition is less than 0.5 Pa·s.

[0188] The composition is homogenized by simple stirring of the bottle before use and does not instantaneously dephase.

[0189] The composition can be applied to the skin, lips and / or cheeks. After application, it leaves a fine, comfortable, non-sticky, non-shiny to satin and non-greasy deposit.

[0190] After storing the composition at room temperature for at least two weeks, the composition remains easily re-homogenizable simply by stirring the bottle.

[0191] Example 2 of the comparative composition

[0192] According to the protocol of Example 1, the following comparative compositions CC1 and CC2 are prepared, in which the trihydroxystearin of the oil phase of Example 1 is replaced by a mixture of glyceryl dibehenate (and) glyceryl tribehenate (and) behenic acid glyceride or by silica, as detailed in the table below.

[0193] It should be noted that the so-called "oil phase of Example 1" corresponds to all components except the diol.

[0194] The appearance of the composition is evaluated after preparation.

[0195] [Table 2]

[0196]

[0197]

[0198] The viscosities of compositions CC1 and CC2 measured according to the protocol in the specification are less than 1 Pa·s.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or treating the skin and / or lips, in particular the lips, the composition comprising: Glyceryl trihydroxystearate; At least one vegetable oil in an amount of at least 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; And At least one pigmentary colorant.

2. The composition according to claim 1, which is in fluid form and preferably has a viscosity, measured according to the protocol of the specification, of less than or equal to 1 Pa·s at 25 °C, preferably less than or equal to 0.7 Pa·s, and advantageously between 0.4 Pa·s and 0.6 Pa·s.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, comprising glyceryl trihydroxystearate in an amount between 0.5% and 4% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 4% by weight, and even more advantageously between 1.5% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The vegetable oil is selected from jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, DHA algal oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, bacaba oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia nut oil, passion fruit oil, argan oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosehip oil, almond oil, linseed oil, polymerized linseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil, peanut oil, torreya grandis oil, coconut oil, marula oil, camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, ambercup pumpkin oil, pith oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, black cumin seed oil, buriti oil, sandalwood fruit oil, babassu oil, liquid shea butter fraction, liquid cocoa butter fraction, and mixtures thereof.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one vegetable oil in an amount of at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition comprises at least one vegetable oil in an amount between 50% and 95% by weight, more particularly between 55% and 90% by weight, and even more advantageously between 60% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil different from the vegetable oil.

7. The composition according to claim 6, wherein The non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil different from the vegetable oil is selected from: *Monoesters containing a total of between 17 and 40 carbon atoms, in particular monoesters having the formula R1COOR2, where R1 is the residue of a straight-chain, branched-chain or aromatic fatty acid containing 4 to 40 carbon atoms, which residue is saturated or unsaturated, and R2 is a hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched chain, provided that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 17, such as, for example, duck uropygial gland oil (cetearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 -C 15 alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, octanoates of an alcohol or polyol, decanoates of an alcohol or polyol or ricinoleates of an alcohol or polyol, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate or oleyl erucate; * Diesters, in particular those comprising a total of between 18 and 60 carbon atoms, particularly a total of between 18 and 50 carbon atoms, particularly diesters of dicarboxylic acids and monohydric alcohols, such as, preferably, diisostearyl malate, or diesters of diols and monocarboxylic acids, such as neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, or polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate; *Triesters, especially including a total of between 25 and 80 carbon atoms, preferably 25 to 70 carbon atoms, said triesters being alone or in the form of a mixture, especially triesters of carboxylic acids such as tristearyl citrate or tridecyl trimellitate; C8-C 60 , preferably C8-C 40 Triglycerides, especially saturated, such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, C18-36 acid triglyceride, triisostearin, 2-decyl-1-tetradecanol triglyceride; or polyglycerol and mono-carboxylic acid triesters, especially branched, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate; *Tetra-esters, especially those having a total carbon number of at least 35, preferably from 35 to 70, such as tetra-esters of pentaerythritol or polyglycerols and monocarboxylic acids, for example, such as pentaerythritol tetranonanoate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraisononanoate, polyglycerol-2 tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetra(decyl-2)tetradecanoate; and *mixtures thereof.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil different from said vegetable oil, said non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil being selected from triesters comprising a total of between 25 and 80 carbon atoms, preferably between 25 and 70 carbon atoms, such as glyceryl caprylate / caprate, polyglycerol-2 triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

9. The composition according to any one of claims 6 to 8, wherein The concentration of one or more additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils different from said vegetable oil is between 1% and 45% by weight, preferably between 5% and 40% by weight, preferably between 10 and 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, The concentration of one or more vegetable oils and one or more additional non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils is at least 50% by weight, more particularly at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably between 50% and 98% by weight, more particularly between 60% and 97% by weight, and even more advantageously between 75% and 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

11. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of vegetable oils, preferably a mixture of castor oil, rapeseed oil, canola oil and glyceryl caprylate / caprate.

12. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more volatile or non-volatile polysiloxane oils and / or one or more non-polar volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils in an amount less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

13. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one wax different from glyceryl trihydroxystearate, the proportion of said wax not exceeding 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is completely free of wax.

14. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one pasty compound in a proportion not exceeding 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The pigment coloring material is selected from mineral pigments, nacre and organic pigments.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one straight-chain or branched-chain saturated alcohol, said alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and comprising one or two hydroxyl functional groups, the composition preferably comprising at least one diol, preferably the proportion of said alcohol is between 0.5% and 6% by weight, preferably between 0.8% and 5% by weight, even more advantageously between 1% and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising less than 5% by weight, particularly less than 2% by weight, more particularly less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is anhydrous.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, substantially free of a liquid polyester obtained from a dimer of an unsaturated fatty acid and a diol, wherein the fatty acid comprises from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; preferably, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition comprises less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight of polyester, and preferably the composition is completely free of polyester.

19. A cosmetic assembly, comprising: i) a container defining a compartment, the container being closed by a closing element; and ii) a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the composition being provided in the compartment.

20. A method for applying makeup and / or treating the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks, in particular the lips and / or cheeks, wherein, The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18 is applied to the skin and / or lips and / or cheeks.

Images