Compositions Containing Trihydroxystearin and Oil to Inhibit the Crystallization of Trihydroxystearin
Formulating trihydroxystearine compositions with oils and UV-absorbing systems in emulsions addresses crystallization issues, ensuring stability and pleasant application while providing UV protection.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Utility models
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-12-10
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-12
AI Technical Summary
Trihydroxystearine crystallization in cosmetic compositions leads to instability, affecting the visual appearance and viscosity, and there is a need for stable, non-greasy, and pleasant-to-apply formulations.
Compositions comprising trihydroxystearine and at least one oil, preferably triisostearine, are formulated to inhibit crystallization, with the addition of a UV-absorbing system including physical ultraviolet attenuating materials, preferably in oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.
The compositions achieve stability, homogeneous visual appearance, and pleasant skin application while providing UV protection, maintaining viscosity and preventing trihydroxystearine crystallization.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Compositions containing trihydroxystearine and oil to inhibit trihydroxystearine crystallization FIELD OF INVENTION
[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions of trihydroxystearine and at least one oil for inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine, as well as processes for manufacturing and using such compositions. DISCUSSION OF THE CONTEXT
[0002] Trihydroxystearine is known to undergo "nucleation" or crystallization, due to instability, when added to cosmetic compositions, particularly emulsions, which can negatively impact the visual and microscopic appearance of the compositions and may decrease the viscosity of the composition.
[0003] There remains in art a need for improved trihydroxystearine-containing compositions, in particular emulsions, which are stable and have a homogeneous visual appearance, which are preferably also non-greasy and pleasant to apply to the skin.
[0004] Accordingly, one aspect of the present disclosure is a composition containing trihydroxystearine that is stable, has a homogeneous visual appearance, is not greasy when applied to the skin, and is pleasant to apply to the skin. Summary of the invention
[0005] This disclosure relates to compositions comprising trihydroxystearine and at least one oil to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine. Preferably, the compositions are in the form of an emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (O / W) emulsions. Preferably, the compositions further comprise a UV-absorbing system including at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.
[0006] This disclosure also relates to processes for the treatment, care, protection, enhancement of appearance and / or makeup of keratinous material, including the application of compositions of this disclosure to keratinous material in sufficient quantity to treat the keratinous material, care for it, enhance its appearance and / or make it up.
[0007] This disclosure also relates to processes for manufacturing stable compositions comprising the combination of trihydroxystearine and au less an oil to inhibit trihydroxystearine crystallization during the formation of compositions to produce stable compositions. Preferably, the compositions are in the form of an emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Preferably, the compositions further comprise a UV-absorbing system including at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.
[0008] This disclosure also relates to methods for inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in a composition, wherein the methods include the addition of at least one oil to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine during the formation of the composition in a sufficient quantity to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in the composition. Preferably, the compositions are in the form of an emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Preferably, the compositions further include a UV-absorbing system comprising at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.
[0009] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the following detailed description are merely illustrative and explanatory and do not limit disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
[0010] In the following description and the claims annexed thereto, it shall be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and usual meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.
[0011] “Approximately”, as used herein, means to within 10% of the stated number (for example, “ "Approximately 10%" means from 9% to 11% and "approximately 2%" means from 1.8% to 2.2%.
[0012] “Film-forming”, “film-forming polymer” or “film-forming agent” as used herein means a polymer or resin that is capable of leaving a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, been absorbed into the substrate and / or dissipated on it.
[0013] “Substitute” as used herein means comprising at least one substitute. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as hydrogen or chlorine atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may, in addition, be substituted.
[0014] “Volatile”, as used here, means having a flash point of less than about 115 °C.
[0015] “Non-volatile”, as used here, means having a flash point greater than approximately 115 °C.
[0016] “Polymer” as used herein means a compound that is made up of at least two monomers.
[0017] “Exempt” or “substantially exempt” or “devoid of”, as used herein This means that, although it is preferable for no quantity of the specific component to be present in the composition, it is possible for very small quantities of it to be present in the compositions of the disclosure, provided that these quantities do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the compositions of the disclosure. Thus, for example, "oil-free" means that an effective quantity (i.e., greater than trace amounts) of oil(s) is omitted from the composition (i.e., about 0% by weight), "substantially oil-free" means that one or more oils are present in quantities not exceeding 0.1% by weight, and "oil-free" means that one or more oils are present in quantities not exceeding 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.The same nomenclature applies to all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph, such as, for example, specific UV filters and / or surfactants (the compositions in the disclosure that are "free of oxybenzone and / or octinoxate," "substantially free of oxybenzone and / or octinoxate," and "devoid of oxybenzone and / or octinoxate," as well as "free of surfactants," "substantially free of surfactants," and "devoid of surfactants" have meanings consistent with the discussion in this paragraph), even if they are not specifically mentioned for each ingredient identified in the application. The examples mentioned of the use of such language as that in this paragraph are intended to be provided by way of example, and not as a limitation.
[0018] “UV Filters” as used herein means approved active sunscreen agents by a government regulatory agency such as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States or the European Commission in Europe and includes organic UV filters such as avobenzone, octocrylene, benzophenones, benzotriazoles and merocyanines, as well as physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuation materials.
[0019] “Trihydroxystearine crystallization” as used herein refers to the formation of trihydroxystearine crystals in compositions.
[0020] The crystallization of trihydroxystearine can be determined macroscopically by visually inspecting a composition at room temperature immediately after its A preparation is performed to determine if it has a homogeneous, smooth, and uniform appearance. If trihydroxystearine crystallization has occurred, the composition will not have a homogeneous, smooth, and uniform appearance. Such a visual inspection can also be repeated after a defined period (e.g., 2 months) to see if the composition's appearance has remained uniform or if it is no longer so (which would indicate trihydroxystearine crystallization).
[0021] The crystallization of trihydroxystearine in a composition can also be determined microscopically by observation under a microscope in CID (differential interference contrast) mode, to determine if, and to what extent, large (> 25 microns) irregular and crystallized anisotropic objects exist in the composition.
[0022] The crystallization of trihydroxystearine can also be measured or determined by measuring the viscosity of the composition and determining whether the viscosity decreased immediately after manufacture or after a defined period (e.g., 2 months). A decrease in viscosity indicates an increase in trihydroxystearine crystallization. A suitable protocol for measuring viscosity is presented in the examples.
[0023] A “UV-absorbing system containing essentially at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material,” as used herein, means that the disclosure compositions contain less than 3% of UV filters other than physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating materials, in particular less than 3% of organic UV filters, which means that, within the framework of this definition, by way of subcategories, we find compositions containing less than 2% of UV filters other than physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating materials, in particular less than 2% of organic UV filters, and less than 1% of UV filters other than physical UV attenuating materials, in particular less than 1% of organic UV filters, as well as those “free of UV filters other than a physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material,”"substantially free of UV filters other than a physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material" and "devoid of UV filters other than a physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material" as defined above.
[0024] “System” and “component” are used interchangeably in the present request.
[0025] “Primary particle” as used in relation to the description of the material Ultraviolet (UV) attenuation physics here refers to inorganic or organic particles (structures) that can be held together by molecular or atomic bonding to form an ultraviolet (UV) attenuation physics material.
[0026] “Primary particle size” means the size of a non-aggregated primary particle in a physical material for attenuating ultraviolet (UV).
[0027] “Passive” as used in relation to the description of a physical material Ultraviolet (UV) attenuation here refers to a material that has been treated in such a way that the potential for the release of ionic species when in contact with water is reduced compared to the same non-passivated material.
[0028] “Keratinous materials” or “keratinous substance” means nails (nails fingers and / or toes), skin such as that of the body, face and around the eyes, scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, and mucous membranes such as lips.
[0029] “Physiologically acceptable” means compatible with keratinous materials and having a pleasant color, smell and feel, and which does not cause unacceptable discomfort (tingling or pulling) likely to discourage a consumer from using the composition.
[0030] “UV protection efficiency” or “filtration efficiency”, in the context of This disclosure is evaluated based on one or more of the following: FPS, FPUVA, critical wavelength, and UVA-I / UV ratio.
[0031] The "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) measures the level of protection against erythema provided by a composition. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum erythematous dose (MED) measured on skin covered with the composition and the MED measured on bare skin. The term "SPF" is known in the art of sunscreens and is defined, for example, in "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).
[0032] The evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out, for example, in vitro with a spectrophotometer from Labsphere (North Sutton, NH, USA). In such an evaluation, the plate is the material onto which the composition under test is applied. For such an evaluation, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates can be used. An example of an acceptable protocol is currently undergoing ISO accreditation under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.
[0033] The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) can also be performed in vivo in accordance with ISO 24444:2019 “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF).” It can also be determined in accordance with FDA protocols, as described in the document “Labeling and Effectiveness Testing; Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use” published in the U.S. Federal Register on May 7, 2011 (https: / / www.federalregister.gov / d / 2011-14766); 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72, updated and revised by the 2011 publication in the Federal Register.
[0034] “UVA protection factor” refers to an index characterizing the UVA protection provided by a composition. For example, the UVA protection factor (UPPF) can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method of the ISO-24442:2022 protocol, measuring the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. It can also be determined according to FDA protocols, as described again in 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72 as mentioned above in relation to SPF.
[0035] UVA protection can also be assessed in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer under conditions such as those mentioned above in relation to the SPF. ISO 24443:2021 describes such an in vitro procedure.
[0036] FDA broad-spectrum test procedures, particularly "critical wavelength" test procedures, are also available in 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72. In addition, broad-spectrum test procedures include the determination of the UVA1 / UV ratio as described in "Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter-Human-Use" published in the Federal Register https: / / www.federalregister.gov / documents / 2019 / 02 / 26 / 2019-03019 / sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use.
[0037] According to this disclosure, the compositions in this disclosure preferably have one or more of the following properties:
[0038] The compositions have a critical wavelength, as determined by FDA critical wavelength procedures, of at least 370 nm;
[0039] The compositions have an FPS value of at least 15, preferably at least 30, preferably at least 50 and preferably at least 70;
[0040] The compositions have an FPUVA / FPS ratio of at least 1 / 3, and preferably of at least 2 / 5 and / or
[0041] The compositions have a UVA1 / UV ratio of 0.7 or more, preferably 0.75 or more, and preferably 0.8 or more.
[0042] “Makeup result”, as used herein, refers to compositions where the The color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as observed with the naked eye, after a prolonged period. The "makeup result" can be evaluated by assessing the long-lasting properties using any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long-lasting performance can be assessed by a test involving the application of a composition to a keratinous material such as skin and evaluating the color of the composition after a prolonged period. For example, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately following application to a keratinous material such as skin, and its characteristics These characteristics can then be reassessed and compared after a certain period. Furthermore, they can be evaluated in relation to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.
[0043] “Natural” as in the expression “natural compound” means any compound derived directly from a natural substance such as a plant, without having undergone chemical modification.
[0044] “Compound of natural origin” means any compound derived from a natural compound which has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.
[0045] “Synthetic compound” means any compound that is neither a natural compound nor a composed of natural origin.
[0046] “Room temperature” means approximately 20 to 25 °C.
[0047] “Atmospheric pressure” means approximately 760 mmHg, i.e. approximately 105 pascals.
[0048] “UV filter” and “sunscreen agent” are used interchangeably in the present request.
[0049] “Effectiveness against UV”, “UV effectiveness” and “Effectiveness of UV protection” are used interchangeably in this application.
[0050] The compositions and processes of this disclosure may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, together with any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the UV (ultraviolet) absorbing system of the compositions of the disclosure may "consist essentially of" at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.
[0051] For the purposes of this disclosure, the "fundamental novel property" associated with compositions, components and processes related to the properties of the composition prior to application to keratinous material that "consist essentially of" identified ingredients or actions is "the inhibition of trihydroxystearine crystallization".
[0052] The compositions of this disclosure may be in any form suitable for use as a personal care composition, such as a stick, paste, cream, emulsion (oil-in-water, water-in-oil, multiple emulsions such as oil-in-water-in-oil), nanoemulsion, gel, liquid, solid, etc. These compositions may be used for all personal care purposes in cosmetic and / or dermatological products such as, for example, sunscreen, foundation, lip balms, lipsticks, concealers, mascaras, leave-in hair products, eyeshadows, powders, etc.
[0053] Reference is made herein to trade names of materials including, but not limited to, materials such as polymers and optional components. Materials are not intended to be limited by the materials described and referenced herein by a particular trade name. Equivalent materials (for example, those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalogue (reference) number) to those referenced by a trade name may be substituted for and used in the processes described and claimed herein.
[0054] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and ratios are calculated by weight. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages are calculated on the basis of the total weight of a composition. All component or composition rates refer to the active rate of that component or composition and are understood to be exclusive of impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources. COMPOSITION Trihydroxystearine
[0055] According to this disclosure, compositions comprising trihydroxystearine are proposed.
[0056] According to preferred embodiments, trihydroxystearine is present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount of about 0.1% to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, about 0.2% to about 10% by weight, about 0.3% to about 5% by weight and about 0.5% to about 3% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, about 4.5% to about 40% by weight, about 1% to about 7.5% by weight, about 20% to about 50% by weight, about 15% to about 35% by weight, about 25% to about 50% by weight, etc., all weights being calculated on the basis of the total weight of the composition.
[0057] Oil inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine
[0058] According to this disclosure, compositions comprising at least one oil for inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine are proposed. In the context of this disclosure, at least one oil for inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in the composition is preferably triisostearine. Accordingly, the component inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in the compositions of this disclosure preferably comprises triisostearine. Furthermore, the component inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in the compositions of this disclosure may "consist essentially of" or "consist of" triisostearine.
[0059] According to preferred embodiments, at least one trihydroxystearine crystallization inhibiting oil is present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount effective for inhibiting trihydroxystearine crystallization such as, for example, from about 1% to about 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, from about 5% to about 40% by weight, from about 7.5% to about 35% by weight, and from about 10% to about 30% by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, from about 4.5% to about 40% by weight, from about 1% to about 7.5% by weight, from about 20% to about 50% by weight, from about 15% to about 35% by weight, from about 25% to about 50% by weight, etc., all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
[0060] According to preferred embodiments, (1) at least one crystallization-inhibiting oil of trihydroxystearine (triisostearine) and (2) trihydroxystearine are present in a weight percentage ratio of at least one crystallization-inhibiting oil of trihydroxystearine (triisostearine) to trihydroxystearine of about 100:1 to about 1:1, preferably about 50:1 to about 1:1, preferably about 30:1 to about 1:1, and preferably about 20:1 to about 2:1, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, such as, for example, 5:1 to 2:1, 1:2 to 5:1, 8:1 to 1.5:1, all weights being based on the weight percentage of at least one crystallization-inhibiting oil of the trihydroxystearine (triisostearine) and trihydroxystearine are present in the composition. UV attenuating physical material
[0061] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, compositions further optionally comprising at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material are provided.
[0062] “Ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material” as used herein reference to solid inorganic ingredients that absorb incoming ultraviolet (UV) light and may optionally scatter incoming ultraviolet (UV) light, when present in the compositions disclosed herein. The UV attenuation physical material preferably comprises one or more metal oxides such as, for example, oxides of titanium, chromium, zinc, tin, alumina, cerium, and / or iron. Specific examples of suitable metal oxide(s) include, but are not limited to, at least one metal oxide selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, tin oxide, alumina, cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof.
[0063] The UV attenuating physical material may be subjected to a surface treatment agent to improve the sensoriality, performance, and / or compatibility of the compositions disclosed herein. Suitable surface treatment agents may include hydrophobic or hydrophilic surface treatment agents such as, for example, those described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, including, but not limited to, specific examples such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid salts, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, lecithin derivatives, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon dioxide, metal oxides, preferably different from at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina, and / or glycerol. Preferably, the UV attenuating physical material is passivated.
[0064] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises one or more zinc oxides and / or titanium dioxides. Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprising one or more zinc oxides or titanium dioxides is passivated.
[0065] According to preferred embodiments, the UV attenuating physical material comprises titanium dioxide. The titanium dioxide may be present in any form in the compositions disclosed herein. Furthermore, the TiO2 may be treated (coated) or untreated.
[0066] According to preferred embodiments, the UV attenuation physical material comprises zinc oxide. The zinc oxide may be present in any form (for example, as wurtzite or sphalerite) in the compositions disclosed herein. Furthermore, the zinc oxide may be treated (coated) or untreated.
[0067] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises zinc oxide. Preferably, the zinc oxide is passivated.
[0068] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises titanium dioxide. Preferably, the titanium dioxide is passivated.
[0069] Preferably, the average size of the primary particles of the mineral UV filters is from 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 250 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 50 nm, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, from 25 nm to 40 nm, from 10 nm to 75 nm, from 10 nm to 40 nm, and from 15 nm to 150 nm.
[0070] Suitable examples of coated pigments include, but are not limited to, titanium dioxides that have been coated such as titanium dioxides:
[0071] - with hydrated silica, such as Tayca's MT-100WP product,
[0072] - with silica and iron oxide, such as the Ikeda product Sunveil F®,
[0073] - with silica and alumina, such as MT-500SA® products and MT-100SA® from Tayca and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda,
[0074] - with alumina, such as Ishihara's TTO-55 (A)® product,
[0075] - with alumina and aluminum stearate, such as MT-100TV® products, Tayca's MT-100Z® and MT-01®, Croda's Solaveil™ CT 100® and Merck's Eusolex T-AVO®,
[0076] - with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as product MT-100AQ ® by Tayca,
[0077] - with alumina and aluminum laurate,
[0078] - with iron oxide and iron stearate,
[0079] - with zinc oxide and zinc stearate,
[0080] - with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Tayca,
[0081] - with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,
[0082] - with silica and treated with a silicone,
[0083] - with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® from Ishihara,
[0084] - with triethanolamine,
[0085] - with stearic acid, such as Ishihara's TTO-55 (C)® product,
[0086] - with sodium hexametaphosphate,
[0087] - with octyltrimethylsilane,
[0088] - with a polydimethylsiloxane, with TiO2 (anatase / rutile phases) treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane
[0089] - with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil™ CT-200 by Croda,
[0090] - with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone, marketed under the Trade name Solaveil™ CT-12W by Croda,
[0091] - with lauroyl lysine, and / or
[0092] - with C9-Ci5 fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminium hydroxide.
[0093] Other examples include TiO2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc, or manganese, preferably manganese. Preferably, the doped pigments are in the form of an oily dispersion. The oil in the oily dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides such as, for example, capric / caprylic acids. The oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersants, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid ester of glycerol, such as tri-PPG-3 myristylether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles includes at least one dispersant chosen from among the polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of glycerol. One can cite more particularly the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for example the product sold under the trade name Optisol™ OTP-1 by Croda.
[0094] Preferred coatings for titanium dioxide preferably include one or more of the following: hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethylpolydimethylsiloxyethyl, hexyldimethicone, hydrogenodimethicone and / or triethoxycaprylysilane.
[0095] Suitable uncoated titanium oxide includes, but is not limited to, those sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B®, or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.
[0096] Appropriate examples of uncoated zinc oxide include, but are not limited to, zinc oxide marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by BASF, zinc oxide marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by Nanophase Technologies, zinc oxide marketed under the name "MZ-500", "MZ-300", "MZ-200" or "MZ-150" by TAYCA.
[0097] Treated zinc oxide (coated) compounds are compounds that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
[0098] Examples of suitable coated zinc oxide include, but are not limited to, polymethylhydrogensiloxane-coated zinc oxide; zinc oxide dispersed in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Cl2-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid), marketed by Croda under the trade name Solaveil CZ-100; C9-12 alkane-based zinc oxide dispersions with a dispersing agent, marketed under the trade name "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA"® by Daito Kasei; silicone-grafted acrylic polymer-coated ZnO dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane, marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by Shin-Etsu; ZnO coated with hydrated silica, marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-500HP"; ZnO coated with hydrated silica, polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone and hydrogenodimethicone (H-Me-Si), marketed by TAYCA under the name MZ-510 HPSX; ZnO coated with stearic acid or isostearic acid, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-505T", "MZY-505EX" or "MZY-304EX"; ZnO coated with silicone oil, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZX-510HPS", "MZY-505S", "MZY-510M3S", "MZ-505M", "MZY-303S", "MZY-303M", "MZY-203S", "MZY-210M3S" or "MZY-153S"; ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, such as those marketed by BASF under the name Z-COTE HP1, or by TAYCA under the name "MZX-508OTS", "MZY-203OTS" or "MZX-304OTS" or by DSM under the name PARSOL ZX; for example: ZnO marketed under the brand name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane);ZnO marketed under the brand name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate); ZnO marketed under the brand name "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane / cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% zinc nano-oxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); ZnO marketed under the brand name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer as a dispersion in cyclopentasiloxane); of ZnO marketed under the brand name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with an acrylic polymer grafted with silicone dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane);ZnO marketed under the brand name "Escalol Z100" by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in a mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene / methicone copolymer); ZnO marketed under the brand name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and ZnO marketed under the brand name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate); ZnO marketed under the brand name Finex by SAKAI such as FINEX-50LP, FINEX-50S-LP2 and FINEX-30S-LPT (ZnO coated with hydrogen dimethicone); FINEX-33W (ZnO coated with hydrated silica), FINEX-52W-LP2 and FINEX-33W-LP2 (ZnO coated with hydrogen dimethicone and hydrated silica), FINEX-50-OTS and FINEX-30-OTS (ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane).
[0099] Preferred coatings for zinc oxide preferably comprise one or more of the following: hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone, hydrogen dimethicone and / or triethoxycaprylylsilane.
[0100] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, zinc oxide may be in the form of wafers, and may or may not be coated. Suitable examples of such forms are marketed by Croda under the name Solaveil (MicNo), such as MXP3, MZP7, MZP8, MZ3-100, MZ3-300, and MZ7-100. Preferably, the zinc oxide wafers useful according to this disclosure (1) have a median specific surface area of more than 25 square meters per gram, preferably greater than 30 square meters per gram, and / or (2) are transparent (i.e., with a transmission >30% at 600 nm). Suitable examples of such wafer forms may also be found in US Patent 11,608,275.
[0101] Suitable examples of other coated oxides include, but are not limited to, coated oxides preferably having amphiphilic properties such as:
[0102] titanium oxides coated with cetyl phosphate and silica, such as the product “Eusolex® T-EASY” from Merck;
[0103] titanium oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and stearic acid, such as Tayca's "MTY-200STW";
[0104] zinc oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MZY-505EXW";
[0105] titanium oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MT-10EXW"; and
[0106] zinc oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as Tayca's "MZY-304EXW".
[0107] Preferably, the at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount of at least about 5% by weight, preferably at least about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12% by weight, preferably at least about 14% by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, the upper end of the range of the at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material present being preferably about 40% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 40%, about 10 to 40%, about 12 to 40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 30%, about 10 to 30%, about 12 to 30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight (per for example, from about 5 to 25%, from about 10 to 25%, from about 12 to 25%, etc.), and preferably about 20% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 20%, about 10 to 20%, about 12 to 20%, etc.), all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
[0108] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure contain a UV-absorbing system substantially containing the ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material(s) as defined above. Additional sunscreen agents
[0109] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, compositions optionally further comprising at least one additional UV filter (in addition to at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material) selected from the group consisting of organic UV filters are proposed. However, as noted above, preferred embodiments of this disclosure include compositions of this disclosure containing a UV-absorbing system or no organic UV filter as defined above.
[0110] The additional organic UV filter(s) may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. “Hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter (in colloidal form). “Lipophilic organic UV filter” means a UV filter that is dissolved or dispersed in colloidal form in a liquid oil phase.
[0111] Suitable organic UV filters may be selected from the following non-exhaustive list of compounds: cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; para-aminobenzoic acid compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, including those cited in US patent 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; the compounds methylene bis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB2303549, DE197 26 184 and EP893119; the compounds benzoxazole as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844;Polymer filters and silicone filters such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665; alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981 and mixtures thereof. Preferably, lipophilic organic UV filters are selected from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; as well as other categories of compounds identified herein; and mixtures thereof.
[0112] Specific reference may be made to suitable salicylate compounds including homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), for example marketed under the brand name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries; and ethylhexyl salicylate, for example marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Symrise; and glycol salicylate. Other examples of salicylate compounds include phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, for example marketed under the brand name "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, for example marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Symrise.
[0113] Examples of suitable [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds include octocrylene, for example marketed under the brand name "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and etocrylene, for example marketed under the brand name "Uvinul N35" by BASF.
[0114] Suitable anthranilic compounds may include menthyl anthranilates, for example marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Symrise.
[0115] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, for example marketed under the brand name "Parsol 1789" by DSM; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.
[0116] Suitable cinnamyl compounds include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed for example under the brand name "Parsol MCX" by DSM; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxyl methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed for example under the brand name "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Symrise; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate.
[0117] Examples of camphor compounds include camphor benzylidene derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SL" by Noveal; benzalkonium methosulfate camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SO" by Noveal; terephthalylidene diamphr sulfonic acid, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SX" by Noveal; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SW" by Noveal.
[0118] Suitable benzophenone compounds include benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophonene sulfonic acid), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the brand name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as that marketed under the brand name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF, benzophenone-12 and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (such as that marketed under the brand name UVINUL A+ by BASF).
[0119] Examples of triazine compounds include 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT)), diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as that marketed under the brand name "TINOSORB S" by BASF and ethylhexyl triazone, such as that marketed under the brand name "UVINUL T150" by BASF.
[0120] Suitable benzotriazole compounds include phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear, and those described in USP 5240975.
[0121] Suitable benzalmalonate compounds include dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as that marketed under the brand name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-La Roche.
[0122] Examples of benzimidazole compounds include, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as that marketed in particular under the brand name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate disodium, such as that marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Symrise.
[0123] Suitable imidazoline compounds include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene propionate dioxoimidazoline.
[0124] Examples of bis-benzoazolyl compounds include the compounds described in EP-669 323 and US patent no. 2 463 264.
[0125] Suitable para-aminobenzoic acid compounds include PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as that marketed under the brand name "Escalol 507" by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul P25" by BASF.
[0126] Suitable methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds include 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methylphenol] such as that marketed under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] such as that marketed in micronized aqueous dispersion form under the brand name "Tinosorb M" by BASF or under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 100" by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US patents Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26184 and EP-893,119, and drometrizole trisiloxane, such as that marketed under the brand name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or - "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oréal.
[0127] Examples of benzoxazole compounds include 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, such as that marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.
[0128] Suitable examples of protective polymers and protective silicones include the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665.
[0129] Suitable α-alkylstyrene derived dimers include the dimers described in DE-19855649.
[0130] Examples of 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds include l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.
[0131] Where appropriate, at least one additional organic UV filter is preferably present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount of at least about 1% by weight, preferably at least about 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12.5% by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, the upper end of the range of the additional UV filter present preferably being about 40% by weight (e.g., about 1 to 40%, about 10 to 40%, about 12.5 to 40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 30%, about 10 to 30%, about 15 to 30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 25%, about 10 to 25%, approximately 15 to 25%, etc.), and preferably approximately 20% by weight (for example, approximately 1 to 20%, approximately 5 to 20%, approximately 10 to 20%, etc.), all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
[0132] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure comprise 10% or less by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of these optional additional UV filters, preferably less than 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably less than 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure further comprise at least one additional organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphen ol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, octocrylene and mixtures thereof.In such embodiments, the UV-absorbing system may "consist of" or "consist essentially of" (1) at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material and (2) at least one organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, octocrylene and mixtures thereof.
[0134] According to other preferred embodiments, however, the compositions of this disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" as defined above of one or more additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, and octocrylene, preferably two or more, preferably three or more, preferably four or more, or preferably all five of these sunscreen agents.
[0135] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure are "free," "substantially free," or "devoid," as defined above, of one or more additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3), OCTINOXATE (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYL PHENOL, DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE, DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE, ISOAMYL P-METHOXYCINNAMATE, POLYSILICONE-15, 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR, PHENYL DIBENZIMIDAZOLE DISODIUM TETRASULFONATE, ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE, 4-bis-{ [4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), preferably two or more, preferably three or more, preferably four or more, etc., and preferably "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" of all these sunscreen agents.
[0136] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" of OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3) and / or OCTINOXATE (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and / or 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine).
[0137] According to preferred embodiments, the UV-absorbing system of the compositions of this disclosure may "consist of" or "consist essentially of" at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.
[0138] According to preferred embodiments, this disclosure envisages omitting one or more of the specific UV filters mentioned above from the UV-absorbing system of the compositions of this disclosure. By way of example, octocrylene and / or octinoxate may be omitted from the compositions. A similar omission of one or more of the specific UV filters mentioned is thus envisaged. Extra oil
[0139] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, compositions further comprising at least one other oil are proposed. “Oil” means a substance that is hydrophobic and lipophilic, and is a liquid at approximately room temperature (20 to 25 °C) and approximately atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0140] Suitable oils include volatile and / or non-volatile oils. These oils may be any acceptable oil, including, but not limited to, silicone oils and / or hydrocarbon oils.
[0141] According to some embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure preferably comprise one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Oils that may be used in the disclosure include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that may be used include KF 96A having a viscosity of 6 cSt, a commercial product of Shin Etsu has a flash point of 94°C. Preferably, volatile silicone oils have a flash point of at least 40°C.
[0142] Non-limiting examples of volatile silicone oils are listed in Table 1 below.
[0143] [Tables 1] Compound Flash Point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetramethylsiloxane or D4) 55 2.5 Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 63 1.7 KF-96 A from Shin Etsu 94 6 PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5 cSt) 56 1.5 from Dow Corning PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) from Dow Corning 87 2
[0144] In addition, a linear volatile silicone oil may be used in this disclosure. Suitable linear volatile silicone oils include those described in US Patent No. 6,338,839 and in WO 03 / 042221. In one embodiment, the linear volatile silicone oil is decamethyltetrasiloxane. In another embodiment, decamethyltetrasiloxane is further combined with another solvent that is more volatile than decamethyltetrasiloxane.
[0145] According to certain embodiments of this disclosure, the composition preferably comprises one or more non-silicone volatile oils and may be selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile esters, and volatile ethers. Examples of such non-silicone volatile oils include, but are not limited to, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular, C8-Ci6 branched alkanes such as C8-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isohexadecane, isododecane, isodecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl. Preferably, the non-silicone volatile oils have a flash point of at least 40 °C.
[0146] Non-limiting examples of non-silicone volatile oils are given in Table 2 below.
[0147] [Tables2] Compound Flash Point (°C) Isododecane 43 Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60 Ethyl 3-ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene glycol acetate methyl ether 46 Isopar L (Cn-Ci3 isoparaffin) 62 Isopar H (Cn-Ci2 isoparaffin) 56
[0148] According to certain embodiments of this disclosure, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil. Examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in this disclosure include, but are not limited to, polar oils such as, for example:
[0149] - esters and ethers, in particular fatty acids, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which RI represents the remainder of a fatty acid having from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, PurCellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, fatty alcohol decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate or dipentaerythrityl pentaisononanoate;
[0150] - ethers containing 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
[0151] - liquid C8 to C26 fatty alcohols, for example oleyl alcohol, alcohol cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and cetearyl alcohol;
[0152] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
[0153] - vegetable hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, cucurbit, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, ara, castor, avocado oil, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812, and 818, by Dynamit Nobel, coco-caprylate / caprate (esterified coconut oil), jojoba oil, shea butter oil; and
[0154] - mixtures thereof.
[0155] In addition, examples of non-volatile oils that may be used in this disclosure include, but are not limited to, non-polar oils such as branched and unbranched hydrocarbons, in particular petrolatum, paraffin oil, squalane, squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene, polybutene, mineral oil, pentahydrosqualene and mixtures thereof.
[0156] According to certain embodiments of this disclosure, the compositions of this disclosure may include at least one non-volatile silicone oil. Appropriate examples of such silicone oils include, but are not limited to, non-volatile silicone fluids such as, for example, polyalkyl(aryl)siloxanes. Appropriate polyalkylsiloxanes include, but are not limited to, polydimethyl siloxanes, which are designated CTFA dimethicone, polydiethyl siloxane, phenyl trimethicone, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxane, diphenyldimethicone, and diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxane, and the siloxanes disclosed in US Patent Application Publication No. 2004 / 0126350.Specific examples of suitable high viscosity silicone oils include, but are not limited to, PCR 15 M 30 (500 cSt) or Wacker Belsil PDM 1000 (1000 cSt) and Dow Corning 200 (350 cSt) (values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 °C).
[0157] Particularly preferred oils include, but are not limited to, one or more of the following components: diisopropyl sebacate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate, phenethyl benzoate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylate / dicaprate, coco glycerides, caprylic / capric triglyceride, isopropyl myristate, coco caprylate / caprate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, octyl dodecanol, isohexadecane, isododecane, dicaprylyl ether, C15-C19 alkane, and mixtures thereof.
[0158] According to preferred embodiments, at least one oil is present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 50% by weight, more preferably from about 5% to about 40% by weight, and preferably from about 10% to about 35% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within those ranges, such as 15% to 40%, 20% to 45%, etc. Aqueous phase
[0159] According to this disclosure, emulsion compositions comprising an aqueous phase including water are proposed. Water is preferably present in the emulsion compositions of this disclosure in an amount of approximately 10% to approximately 80% by weight, preferably approximately 20% to approximately 70% by weight, preferably approximately 35% to approximately 65% by weight, including all the intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.
[0160] Preferably, the emulsion compositions of this disclosure are in the form of an emulsion containing an external aqueous phase such as an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsion, or an emulsion containing an external oily phase such as a water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion or an oil-in-water-in-oil (W / O / O) emulsion. Preferably, the oily phase may contain silicone oils (e.g., Si / O or W / Si emulsion) or hydrocarbon oils.
[0161] The aqueous phase may further comprise at least one water-soluble organic solvent that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. For example, such at least one water-soluble organic solvent may include:
[0162] C1-C5 monoalcohols having a C1-C5 alkane chain and a single hydroxyl (OH) function. Suitable C1-C5 monoalcohols include methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof;
[0163] polyols (compounds having 2 or more hydroxyl groups) having, for example, from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars and water-soluble polyalkylene glycols;
[0164] and mixtures thereof.
[0165] According to preferred embodiments, at least one water-soluble organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
[0166] Where appropriate, the water-soluble organic solvent(s) is / are preferably present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount ranging from about 0.5 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 3 to about 30% by weight, and preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 2% to 15%, 2% to 25%, 7.5% to 30%, etc. Optional additional ingredients
[0167] The compositions of this disclosure may also optionally include at least one additional additive or auxiliary commonly used in cosmetic compositions and known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of being incorporated into such compositions. Such additives or auxiliaries may be selected from among film-forming agents, coloring agents (e.g., dyes and pigments), waxes, thixotropic agents (e.g., clays), fillers, preservatives, perfumes, surfactants, antioxidants, Free radical scavengers, spreading agents, dispersing agents, antifoaming agents, neutralizing agents, stabilizing agents, active ingredients selected from essential oils, moisturizing agents, vitamins, active ingredients, proteins, ceramides, plant extracts, fibers and the like, wetting agents and mixtures thereof. However, preferably, the compositions in this disclosure are "free," "substantially free," or "devoid" of such additives.
[0168] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional additives and / or their quantity are chosen so that the advantageous properties of the composition as disclosed are not, or not substantially, compromised by the envisaged addition.
[0169] It goes without saying that the composition of the disclosure must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, that is, it must contain a physiologically acceptable, non-toxic carrier. The composition may be in any pharmaceutical form normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields that is suitable for topical administration as mentioned above.
[0170] These auxiliary additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0% to 99% (such as 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and furthermore such as 0.1% to 50% (where applicable), including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.
[0171] In accordance with this disclosure, the compositions of this disclosure may be a standalone product (for use alone), or they may be a product for use in conjunction with another composition, for example, a protective base composition (makeup base), a colored layer composition, or a top coat composition (overcoat). It should be understood that when compositions of this disclosure are applied to keratinous materials in the form of any such composition, such application may comprise one or more layers of the product.Thus, for example, the application of at least one colored layer composition may include one or more colored layers; the application of at least one topcoat composition may include one or more topcoats; the application of at least one basecoat composition may include one or more basecoats. Preferably, such basecoat, colored layer, and topcoat compositions contain three or fewer layers of compositions, preferably two or fewer layers of compositions, and preferably only one layer of compositions.
[0172] During the application of the compositions of this disclosure, the base coat (if any) is typically applied directly to the keratinous material, the color coat is typically applied either directly to the material keratinous (if no base coat is present), or on a previously applied base coat, and the top coat (if any) is typically applied on top of a color coat.
[0173] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, methods for treating, protecting, improving the appearance, caring for and / or making up keratinous material by applying compositions of this disclosure to the keratinous material in sufficient quantity to treat the keratinous material, improve its appearance, care for it and / or make it up, are proposed.
[0174] Preferably, the "makeup" of the keratinous material includes the application of a composition comprising at least one coloring agent to the keratinous material in sufficient quantity to provide color and / or an optical effect to the keratinous material.
[0175] Preferably, the "protection" of the keratinous material includes the application of a composition of this disclosure to protect the keratinous material from damage resulting from exposure to UV rays.
[0176] According to the preceding embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure are applied topically to the keratinous material in a sufficient quantity to treat, improve the appearance of, care for, and / or conceal the keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before being subjected to contact such as with clothing or other objects (e.g., clothing or a top coat). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for approximately 1 minute or less, more preferably for approximately 45 seconds or less.
[0177] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, methods for manufacturing stable compositions comprising combining trihydroxystearine and at least one oil to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine during the formation of the compositions to produce stable compositions are provided. Preferably, the compositions are in the form of an emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (O / W) emulsions. Preferably, the compositions further comprise a UV-absorbing system including at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.
[0178] According to preferred embodiments, methods for inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in a composition are provided, wherein the methods include adding at least one oil to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine during the formation of the composition in a sufficient quantity to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in the composition. Preferably, the compositions are in the form of an emulsion, preferably oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions. Preferably, the compositions further comprise a UV-absorbing system including at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.
[0179] This disclosure also considers kits and / or pre-packaged materials suitable for consumer use containing one or more composition(s) as described herein, alone or in combination with makeup products such as protective primers, top coats, makeup removal compositions, etc. The packaging and application device for any subject of this disclosure may be selected and manufactured by persons skilled in the art based on their general knowledge and adapted according to the nature of the composition to be packaged. Indeed, the type of device to be used may be particularly related to the consistency of the composition, especially its viscosity; it may also depend on the nature of the constituents present in the composition, for example, the presence of volatile compounds.
[0180] Unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc., used in the patent memorandum and claims are to be understood as modified in all cases by the term "approximately." Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical parameters presented in the following patent memorandum and the attached claims are approximations that may vary depending on the desired properties that are sought to be obtained through this disclosure.
[0181] Although the numerical ranges and parameters defining the general scope of disclosure are approximations, the numerical values shown in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some error that necessarily results from the standard deviation found in its respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate disclosure without, however, limiting its scope. Percentages are provided on a weighted basis. Example 1
[0182] The following water-in-oil emulsions were prepared in a total quantity of 2 kg using a Multilab VMI kettle. Trihydroxystearine (THS) was dispersed with the rotor / stator in the oil phase at 75 °C and high shear (turbine at 4500 rpm) for 25 min until the THS was solubilized. Then, emulsifier was added, and the aqueous phase (previously homogenized and heated to 75 °C under high shear (turbine at 4000 rpm) for 10 min) was slowly introduced. The emulsions were then cooled to 25 °C under medium shear (turbine at 2000 rpm).
[0183] [Tables3] INCI Name Comp. Inv. 1 Inv. 2 PHASE OIL CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 20 0 10 TRIISOSTEARIN 0 20 10 ISOHEXADECANE 3 3 3 GELDING AGENT TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN 1.5 1.5 1.5 EMULSIFIER POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 OLEATE (and) DIISOSTEARYLPOLYGLYCERYL-3 DILINOLEATE DIMER (POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEA RATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SE BACATE (and) CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRI GLYCERIDE (and) POLYGLYCERYL-3 OLEATE (and) DIISOSTEAROYL POLY GLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE) 5 5 5 PHASE AQ UUSE WATER (WATER) 58.55 58.55 58.55 GLYCERIN (GLYCERIN) 3 3 3 PENTYLENE GLYCOL (PENTYLENE G LYCOL) 2 2 2 SORBITOL 3 3 3 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DIS UCCINATE (TRISODIUM ETHYLENED IAMINE DISUCCINATE) 0.25 0.25 0.25 PHENOXYETHANOL (PHENOXYETHA NOL) 0.7 0.7 0.7 SODIUM CHLORIDE (SODIUM CH LORIDE) 1 1 1 MAGNESIUM SULFATE (MAGNESIUM SULFATE) 2 2 2
[0184] The viscosity of the prepared compositions was measured at room temperature using a LAMY RM180 rotary viscometer equipped with an Ms R 4 spindle immediately after fabrication (t0). The viscosity value was recorded after 30 seconds of rotation of the tool in the cup until a plateau value was reached, expressed in mPa·s using a correlation curve between the raw data expressed in deviation units (DU) and mPa·s. In addition, the compositions were visually observed with and without a microscope in CID (differential interference contrast) mode to identify any anisotropic crystallized objects. The results are presented below.
[0185] [Tables4] Comp. Inv. 1 Inv. 2 Viscosity at tO (mPa.s) 7840 (33 UD) 11590 (49 UD) 10420 (44 UD) Visual Appearance Granulated waxy cream Homogeneous smooth cream Homogeneous smooth cream Microscopic Appearance Large anisotropic irregular objects (30 µm) Regular isotropic appearance Regular isotropic appearance
[0186] Compositions Inv. 1 and Inv. 2 were high-viscosity creams that were smooth and homogeneous with an isotropic appearance under the microscope, demonstrating that the THS was well dispersed, resulting in increased gelling properties in the compositions. However, the comparative composition was finer (lower viscosity) and in the form of a waxy, granular cream, with large (30 pm) irregular crystallized objects at the microscopic level.
[0187]
Claims
Demands
1. Emulsion composition comprising trihydroxystearine, and at least one oil to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine, preferably triisostearine.
2. Composition according to claim 1, further comprising a UV-absorbing system comprising at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material, preferably at least one metal oxide, preferably at least one metal oxide selected from titanium, chromium, zinc, tin, alumina, cerium and / or iron oxides.
3. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 2, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion.
4. Composition according to any one of claims 2 and 3, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is present in the composition in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 5% to about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is surface treated with a surface treatment agent, the surface treatment agent preferably comprising at least one of amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, salts of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin compounds, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides other than the at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material comprises zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide, preferably passivated.
7. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 6, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material comprises zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide, preferably coated with a coating agent, the coating agent preferably comprising at least one of hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethylpolydimethylsiloxyethyl, hexyldimethicone, hydrogenodimethicone, triethoxycaprylysilane, and mixtures thereof.
8. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 7, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material comprises zinc oxide, preferably passivated or coated with hydrated silica and / or hydrogen dimethicone.
9. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 8, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material has an average primary particle size of 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably 5 nm to 250 nm, preferably 10 nm to 100 nm, preferably 10 nm to 50 nm, preferably 20 nm to 40 nm.
10. A process for inhibiting the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in an emulsion composition comprising trihydroxystearine, wherein the process comprises adding at least one oil to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine, preferably triisostearine, during the formation of the emulsion composition in an amount sufficient to inhibit the crystallization of trihydroxystearine in the emulsion.