Composition containing chitosan and natural resin

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular for making up and / or caring for skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or hair, in particular skin, the invention relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a) at least 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a natural chitosan having a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons in an amount strictly less than 15% by weight, and b) at least one natural resin. The invention also relates to a method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or skin appendages, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or skin appendages.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention relates to cosmetic compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions for applying makeup and / or care to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or hair, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) At least 0.01% by weight of natural chitosan with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount is strictly less than 15% by weight. b) At least one natural resin.

[0002] The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic and / or care of skin and / or skin appendages, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or skin appendages. Background Technology

[0003] For many cosmetic compositions, a durable deposited film is desired after application of keratin materials. Examples include lipsticks, foundations, mascaras, and nail polishes. To achieve this result, specific ingredients, particularly film-forming agents, can be combined.

[0004] In addition, there is a general desire to obtain a covering composition.

[0005] Therefore, formulators are seeking raw materials and / or systems for obtaining easily formulated, preferably fluid, chitosan-based compositions with deposits exhibiting good optical properties, such as opacity, matte finish, good retention, and enhanced resistance to dry mechanical abrasion or water, for example. Such compositions also require good sensory and / or application comfort upon application, as well as a good texture, i.e., particularly compositions with controlled and acceptable viscosity.

[0006] In addition, formulating environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, taking environmental issues into account during the design and development process, is becoming a major focus in helping to address global challenges.

[0007] Therefore, it is necessary to develop more sustainable compositions and / or preparation methods and / or ingredients that can address these environmental challenges.

[0008] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, particularly by promoting the use of renewable ingredients and / or ingredients with a good natural index and / or natural and, more particularly, plant-based ingredients, while reducing the use of petrochemical-derived compounds. Summary of the Invention

[0009] These problems can be addressed by implementing the cosmetic compositions described below, which possess good formability, good cosmetic performance, particularly cosmetic properties (such as coverage or matte finish), good resistance to water, oil, and / or sebum under dry rubbing, and good sensory and texture properties. The present invention particularly aims to provide emulsions comprising chitosan and possessing good resistance to dryness, water, and / or oil.

[0010] Upon application, these compositions leave a covering and uniform film deposit with good abrasion resistance. The resulting colored film is adhesive and cohesive, and exhibits improved resistance upon drying and / or in the presence of chemical erosion agents such as water.

[0011] These compositions also contain sustainable ingredients, enabling them to address environmental challenges.

[0012] Therefore, the object of the present invention is a cosmetic composition, particularly a cosmetic composition for applying makeup and / or care to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or hair, especially the skin, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) At least 0.01% by weight of natural chitosan with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, relative to the total weight of the composition, and this amount is strictly less than 15% by weight. b) At least one natural resin.

[0013] The present invention also relates to a method for cosmetic and / or care of skin and / or skin appendages, wherein a composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or skin appendages.

[0014] The composition is preferably in the form of an emulsion, more preferably a direct emulsion (oil-in-water) or a reverse emulsion (water-in-oil).

[0015] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, particularly having an oil phase / water phase weight ratio between 5:95 and 80:20, preferably between 8:92 and 65:35, preferably between 10:90 and 60:40, preferably between 12:88 and 50:50, and preferably between 15:85 and 40:60.

[0016] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, particularly having an oil phase / water phase weight ratio between 90:10 and 20:80, preferably between 80:20 and 30:70, preferably between 70:30 and 40:60, and preferably between 65:35 and 45:55. The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of an aqueous dispersion, solution, or aqueous gel.

[0017] "Physiologically acceptable" refers to a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.

[0018] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 0.1% by weight to 10% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0019] Silicone refers to any silicone compound.

[0020] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicones other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, and more preferably silicones other than MQ resins or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers.

[0021] "Substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicones other than silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, and more preferably silicones other than MQ resins or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers" means that, relative to the total weight of the composition, the composition contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and more preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, and more preferably silicones other than MQ resins or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers. Preferably, the composition is completely free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, and more preferably silicones other than MQ resins or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers. Silicones that are not film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers, preferably silicone resins or silicone acrylate copolymers, and preferably silicones that are not MQ resins or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, mean any silicone compound that is not a film-forming or adhesive silicone polymer, preferably not a silicone resin or silicone acrylate copolymer, and more preferably not any silicone compound that is not MQ resin or acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer.

[0022] The term "resin" refers to a compound having a three-dimensional structure. Therefore, for the purposes of this invention, polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.

[0023] The nomenclature for silicone resins is called "MDTQ". The resin is described according to the various siloxane monomer units it contains, and each letter in "MDTQ" represents the type of unit.

[0024] The letter "M" represents the formula R1R2R3SiO 1 / 2 A monofunctional unit in which a silicon atom is bonded to a single oxygen atom in a polymer containing the unit.

[0025] The letter "D" refers to the bifunctional unit R1R2SiO 2 / 2 In this structure, silicon atoms are bonded to two oxygen atoms.

[0026] The letter "T" represents the formula R1SiO 3 / 2 The three functional units.

[0027] The units M, D, T, and Ri, i.e. R1, R2, and R3 as defined above, may be the same or different, representing hydrocarbon groups (especially alkyl), phenyl, phenylalkyl, or even hydroxyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0028] Finally, the letter "Q" represents SiO. 4 / 2 The four functional units consist of silicon atoms bonded to four oxygen atoms, which in turn are bonded to the rest of the polymer.

[0029] Such resins are described, for example, in “Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, vol. 15, John and Wiley and Sons, New York, (1989), pp. 265-270” and US 2,676,182, US 3,627,851, US 3,772,247, US 5,248,739 or US 5,082,706, US 5,319,040, US 5,302,685 and US 4,935,484.

[0030] MQ type silicone resins are, for example, of the formula [(R1)3SiO] 1 / 2 ] x (SiO 4 / 2 ) y Alkyl silaneoxysilicates (MQ units), wherein x and y are integers from 50 to 80, and such that group R1 represents a group as defined above, and is preferably an alkyl or hydroxyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably methyl. A distinction is made particularly between trimethyl silaneoxysilicates or phenylalkyl silaneoxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyl dimethyl silaneoxysilicates.

[0031] Silicone polymers comprise siloxanes having organic functional groups, such as polyalkylsiloxanes, wherein at least one alkyl group is different from methyl, for example, organopolysiloxanes having INCI names such as stearyl dimethylsiloxane, cetyl dimethylsiloxane, or C26-28 alkyl dimethylsiloxane; or, for example, polyarylsiloxanes and polyarylalkylsiloxanes, such as organopolysiloxanes having INCI names such as phenyltrimethylsiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethylsiloxane, or dimethylphenyl dimethylsiloxane; or, for example, organopolysiloxanes having organic functional groups. Organopolysiloxanes with functional groups (such as aminopropyl, aminopropyl-aminoethyl, aminopropyl-aminoisobutyl), such as organopolysiloxanes with the INCI name Amodimethicone; or organopolysiloxanes having polyethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol groups, such as organopolysiloxanes with the INCI names PEG-12 dimethylsiloxane, PEG / PPG-25,25-dimethylsiloxane or cetyl PEG / PPG-15 / 15 butyl ether dimethylsiloxane.

[0032] Silicone acrylate copolymers are polymers comprising siloxane groups and hydrocarbon groups. For example, suitable polymers include polymers comprising a hydrocarbon backbone (e.g., a backbone selected from vinyl polymers, methacrylic polymers, and / or acrylic polymers) and at least one chain selected from siloxane side groups, and polymers comprising a backbone comprising siloxane groups and at least one hydrocarbon side chain (such as side vinyl, methacrylic, and / or acrylic groups).

[0033] The silicone acrylate copolymer may be selected from: polymers derived from nonpolar silicone copolymers containing repeating units of at least one polar (meth)acrylate unit and vinyl copolymers grafted with at least one nonpolar silicone chain. Non-limiting examples of such copolymers are acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymers, such as those commercially available from Shin-Etsu, such as products sold under the trade names KP-545 (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer), KP-543 (butyl acetate (and) acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer), KP-549 (methyltrimethylsiloxane (and) acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer), KP-550 (INCI name: isododecane (and) acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer), KP-561 (acrylate / stearyl acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane acrylate copolymer), KP-562 (acrylate / behenyl acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane acrylate copolymer), and mixtures thereof. Other examples include acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymers and mixtures thereof, marketed by Dow Corning under the trade names FA 4001 CM siloxane acrylate (cyclopentasiloxane (and) acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxane methacrylate copolymer), FA 4002 ID siloxane acrylate (isododecane (and) acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxane methacrylate copolymer), and FA 4004 ID siloxane acrylate (isododecane (and) acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxane methacrylate copolymer).

[0034] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is substantially silicone-free. "Substantially silicone-free" means that the composition contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition is completely free of siloxanes. According to this embodiment, silicone means any silicone compound, including film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers.

[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, and more preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the pullullan composition.

[0036] Chitosan The composition according to the invention contains at least 0.01% by weight of at least one natural chitosan with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons (3kDa) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0037] The amount of natural chitosan is also strictly less than 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0038] Preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, more preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, and more preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa. More preferably, the natural chitosan has a molecular weight between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, more preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, more preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, and more preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa. One Dalton is equivalent to 1 g / mol.

[0039] Chitosan (or deacetylated chitosan) is very rare in nature. It has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects (such as termite queens) and in the cell walls of specific classes of fungi (i.e., zygomycetes).

[0040] Chitosan is obtained by deacetylation of chitin. Chitin is a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β-bonds (1,4).

[0041] The ideal chemical structure of chitosan is a chain of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).

[0042] According to the present invention, "chitosan" refers to any copolymer formed from N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine constituent units, having a degree of acetylation of less than 90%. Chitosan is composed of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) interconnected by β-type bonds (1,4), and constitutes a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.

[0043] Preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is less than or equal to 80%, more preferably less than or equal to 70%, more preferably less than or equal to 60%, more preferably less than or equal to 50%, more preferably less than or equal to 35%, more preferably less than or equal to 25%, and more preferably less than or equal to 15%.

[0044] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units, which can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or by strong base titration.

[0045] The chitosan of this invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. Specifically, it is from a safe and abundant food or biotechnology fungal source such as *Agaricus bisporus* (button mushroom). Agaricus bisporus ) or Aspergillus niger ( Aspergillus niger It is used for extraction and purification.

[0046] The chitosan of this invention is preferably derived from the mycelium of ascomycete fungi, especially from Aspergillus niger; and / or basidiomycete fungi, especially Lentinus edura (shiitake mushroom). Lentinula edodes(shiitake)) and / or button mushrooms ( Agaricus bisporus The preferred fungus is Aspergillus niger ( ). Aspergillus niger ).

[0047] Chitosan can be GMO-derived, but is preferably non-GMO-derived.

[0048] The chitosan according to the present invention is natural, that is, it is unmodified. In particular, it does not contain any chemical modifications.

[0049] The method for preparing chitosan is described in application WO03068824.

[0050] Preferably, the chitosan used in this invention is in powder form. It is particularly sold by Kitozyme under the names Kiosmetine or Kionutrime.

[0051] Chitosan is preferably present in an amount of 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 3% by weight, or even more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0052] Natural resin The compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one natural resin.

[0053] Resins are generally defined as solid, highly viscous, or liquid substances of plant or synthetic origin. Resins possess several unique properties, such as: The ability to permanently cure, for example, for synthetic materials affected by temperature and for natural materials affected by oxygen; Their insolubility in water, especially their good viscosity and adhesion properties.

[0054] ISO 4618:2014 (en) defines resin as "macromial products that are generally amorphous and have a consistency ranging from solid to liquid".

[0055] Natural resins are almost entirely plant-derived (from fossils or harvested) and secreted and exuded from plants to serve defensive, protective, and communicative functions within their ecosystems. One exception is animal-derived resins, such as lacquer (or shellac) secreted by the insect scale insect (Coccus lacca).

[0056] According to the implementation method, the natural resin is of plant or animal origin.

[0057] Within the meaning of this invention, "natural resin," particularly "plant resin," means any substance containing a minimum amount of terpene compounds, i.e., at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds relative to the total weight of the substance (or material) under consideration, as defined in cultural terms below, which are directly or indirectly derived from substances used for defense, protection, and communication in an ecosystem, and are secretions and exudates of major plants (and more rarely animals).

[0058] Advantageously, the natural resins according to the invention are insoluble in water at room temperature (unlike, for example, latex or gum).

[0059] Natural resins are also considered natural adhesives, possessing the inherent ability to cure continuously and predictably without the need for synthetic chemicals.

[0060] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight of less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight of the resin is preferably less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, especially 250 g / mol to 10,000 g / mol, more preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, especially 250 g / mol to 5,000 g / mol, more preferably less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, especially 250 g / mol to 2,000 g / mol, and even more preferably less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, especially 250 g / mol to 1,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weight (Mn) is determined by liquid chromatography via gel permeation (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractive detector).

[0061] thermal properties Advantageously, the resin according to the invention is characterized by having a softening point, which refers to the temperature at which a substance transitions from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating.

[0062] Preferably, the resin of the present invention has a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably 30°C to 100°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 90°C.

[0063] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standardized conditions. It refers to the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating. It can be measured according to ASTM E284 using the bead ring method of resin (or TBA, bead ring temperature).

[0064] Depending on their category, some resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature preferably less than 360°C, preferably less than 190°C, and even more preferably less than 90°C.

[0065] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin does not have a melting temperature.

[0066] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance under a given pressure is the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of the substance can coexist in equilibrium.

[0067] Preferably, the resin of the present invention has a glass transition temperature, which is preferably from 0°C to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C, and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

[0068] The glass transition temperature (Tv: Tg for glass) of a material represents the temperature range in which the material transitions from a rubbery state to a glassy state or a solid (rigid) state.

[0069] The thermal properties of the resin, especially Tf and Tg, can be measured by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry), for example using a DSC 8000 device from Perkin Elmer, according to the following scheme: Option 1 Determination of melting temperature Tf and crystallization temperature Tc: Raw material alone or dissolved / dispersed in solvent, stainless steel cup, scan from 5℃ to 90℃, scan rate 5℃.min-1; Option 2 Determination of glass transition temperature (Tg): Measured during the second heating. Using an aluminum cup (40 μL) containing the raw material, the glass transition temperature was observed by scanning at temperatures between -100°C and 150°C (with isotherms). For the glass transition temperature (2 cycles), the applied temperature rise was 10°C / min.

[0070] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several types of compounds, the presence and content of which determine the type of resin (oil resins, balsams, gums, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acidic components, and polysaccharides (found only in gums).

[0071] The characteristic components of the resin are the terpene compounds it contains, preferably at a content of at least 30% by weight of the resin.

[0072] "Terpenes" refers to terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene with the general formula (C5H8)n, and various derivatives containing terpenes (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) (Montpellier Academy. Resins: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Terpenes.html).

[0073] Terpenes are classified as follows: monoterpenes (n=2) of crude formula C10H16, sesquiterpenes (n=3) of crude formula C15H24, diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), diterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8), and other polyterpenes. Some terpenes have an acyclic structure; they include many double bonds corresponding to their original molecular formula: 3 for C10H16, 5 for C20H32, and 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more rings, i.e., a reduced number of double bonds; for example, for C10H16, there is one ring and two double bonds, or two rings and one double bond.

[0074] Advantageously, the resin of the present invention contains at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, more preferably at least 50% by weight of terpene compounds, even more preferably at least 60% by weight of terpene compounds, or even more preferably at least 70% by weight of terpene compounds.

[0075] Monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes are mostly volatile compounds, such as essential oils. Polyterpenes derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as diterpenes and triterpenes) are resinous compounds with fairly solid properties.

[0076] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin comprises at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, and preferably at least 35% by weight of a polyterpene compound, i.e., derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, relative to the total weight representing 100% by weight of the resin. Therefore, a resin having a solid portion at room temperature (25°C) is preferred. Advantageously, the resin used according to the invention is not volatile.

[0077] Advantageously, the polyterpenoid compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the compositions of the present invention are mostly (more than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0078] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin comprises less than 70% by weight of monoterpenes or sesquiterpenes, i.e., terpenes derived from n less than 4, relative to the total weight representing 100% of the resin; preferably, the resin comprises less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, and preferably less than 15% by weight of monoterpenes or sesquiterpenes, i.e., terpenes derived from n less than 4, relative to the total weight representing 100% of the resin. Therefore, for the compositions of the invention, it is preferable to limit the use of the most volatile resins, as they are less effective in maintaining cosmetic films.

[0079] Advantageously, the natural resins described in this invention may be selected from the following: a) sapwood resin; b) amber; c) bitumen and black bitumen; d) Peru balm; e) Tolu balm; f) Benjoin resin; g) Canada balm; h) copal resins (especially including kauri copal resin, Manila copal resin, West African copal resin such as Congo copal resin, Angolan copal resin or Cameroonian copal resin), East African copal resin such as Zanzibar copal resin or Madagascar copal resin, South American copal resin such as copal resin from Brazil and Colombia); i) damar resin; j) elemites resin; k) incense; l) gallanums; m) labdanums; n) putties; o) Myrrh; p) Sandaraque; q) Shellac; r) Storax; s) Venetian pine resin (larch resin, turpentine); t) Rosins, especially rosin, rosin esters and tall oil; v) Resins extracted from plant waxes; and mixtures of the above resins.

[0080] Preferably, the natural resin used according to the present invention is selected from j), k), t), and v); it should be understood that the resin of the present invention can be esterified, salinated, formed into adducts, modified with phenol and / or dimerized and / or further hydrogenated.

[0081] j) Elemis "Elecithin" is a general term for a group of recently derived natural resins from plants of the Burseraceae family (olive, Canarium indicum). Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the elecithin resin used is from the Philippines, particularly from Manila. To extract it, the trees are damaged, resulting in pathological resin loss and solidification over time. elecithin is yellow to green, opaque, in the form of an ointment, viscous, sticky, and viscous, solidifying into a brown resin with dispersed crystals.

[0082] Elemiene is soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters, and carbon sulfides; it is less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemi resin has an acid value between 18 and 34, a saponification value between 25 and 60, and a softening point of approximately 80°C. Elemi balms contain up to 30% essential oil.

[0083] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin of the invention is selected from elemenes, for example, in pure form or in mixtures with latex, particularly elemenes derived from the Canarium Luzonicum family. Reference may be made to elemene resins from Canarium Luzonicum sold under the name "RESINE ELEMI".

[0084] k) Incense Incense is distributed in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia, and the East Indies. The incense resin is novel and derived from the Boswellia carterii tree. Incense resins from the Amazon have also been found. The bark is intentionally damaged to obtain a milky extract recovered after drying. Preferably, the resin of the present invention is selected from incense, particularly from Amazonian incense.

[0085] Incense resins are pale yellow and form irregularly shaped round or spherical beads. They typically contain 20% to 40% by weight (approximately 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). The acid value of incense is between 30% and 50% (indirectly), and it is moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline media.

[0086] According to specific embodiments of the present invention, the resin of the present invention is selected from incense, especially Amazon incense resins known by names such as Protium heptaphyllum resin, or PROTIUM RESIN, or WHITE BREU RESIN, and incense resins derived from Sal trees.

[0087] Advantageously, the resin can be used in combination with one or more fatty substances as defined below in this invention, preferably selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. For example, a mixture of Salix matsudana resin and sunflower seed oil sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 (Salix matsudana resin, sunflower seed oil, tocopherol: 50% to 75% by weight of Salix matsudana resin, 25% to 50% by weight of sunflower seed oil); and a mixture of Salix matsudana resin and octyldodecanol sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 (Salix matsudana resin and octyldodecanol; 50% to 70% by weight of Salix matsudana resin, 30% to 50% by weight of octyldodecanol).

[0088] t) Rosin Preferably, the natural resin is selected from rosin. Rosin is a new resin derived from renewable resources and can be modified (e.g., esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).

[0089] Rosin gum is preferably purified and distilled from various pine oils (up to 80 different types).

[0090] Their composition is determined by climate, soil composition, and other plant and meteorological factors. For example, we can mention pine from Austria (black pine), Central American pine, Caribbean pine (slash pine), American pine, Caribbean pine, Japanese red pine (densiflora), American elliot pine (elliottii), Greek Mediterranean pine (halepensis) (Aleppo pine), Portuguese pine, Spanish pine, Indian pine (Aleppo pine) (langifolia), French pine (maritima (seashorepine)), Spanish pine, Portuguese pine, Chinese red pine (Chinese red pine), Indonesian pine, Burmese pine, Philippine pine, Austrian pine (black pine), Central American pine (oocarpa Central America), Honduran pine (sampe pine), American pine (longleaf pine), Central American pseudostrobus (pseudostrobus Central America), Mexican pine, Scots pine (Scottish pine), German pine, Polish pine, Chinese tonkinensis, and Chinese Yunnan pine.

[0091] The average composition is approximately 70% to 75% rosin and 20% to 25% turpentine.

[0092] Pine resin [8050-09-7] The rosin comes from American strains that have been preserved in the soil for at least 10 years to produce resin-rich heartwood (duramen).

[0093] The pine strain contains 10% to 30% by weight (about 19% rosin), 1% to 10% by weight (preferably 4%) turpentine, 1% to 10% by weight (preferably 4%) of resin insoluble in petroleum ether, 20% to 30% by weight (preferably 23%) of water, and 40% to 60% by weight (preferably 50%) of cellulose and lignin.

[0094] According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from rosin.

[0095] Tall oil rosin (rosin and rosin esters) [8052-10-6] Tall rosin typically contains small amounts of higher fatty acids, especially those with 6 or more carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, tall rosin is free of oxycarboxylic acids. They are particularly soluble in organic solvents.

[0096] The rosin resin of the present invention specifically contains rosin acid, which belongs to terpenes. The carbon atom numbers in the rosin acid molecule are represented by abietic acid as an example.

[0097] Abietic acid has the molecular formula C20H30O2, and therefore belongs to the diterpenoid family (the four units of isoprene). Tricyclic abietic acid has a large number of isomers with different positions on the two double bonds.

[0098] Advantageously, the resin according to the invention is selected from: gum rosin obtained by cutting on living trees, wood rosin extracted from tree stumps or pine wood, and tall oil rosin obtained from papermaking byproducts. Advantageously, the resin comprises rosin acid; preferably mainly selected from abietic acid and piratic acid; and particularly selected from: L-pilocarboxylic acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, D-pilocarboxylic acid, isoD-pilocarboxylic acid; or swamp acid; or mixtures thereof.

[0099] Rosin derivatives can be derived, in particular, from the polymerization, hydrogenation, and / or esterification of rosin acids (e.g., using polyols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol). Examples of rosin esters marketed, for instance, are those sold by Hercules under the brands FORAL 85, Pentalyn H, and STAYBELITE ESTER 10; by Arizona Chemical under SYLVATAC 95 and ZONESTER 85; or by Union Camp under UNIREZ 3013.

[0100] According to one embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from rosin salts (basic reagent salts of rosin acid, especially salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc or magnesium).

[0101] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from rosin esters, especially rosin esters of (C1-C6) alkanols, polyhydroxy (C1-C6) alkanols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof as defined above, more preferably from rosin acid glycerides sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, mixtures with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (GLYCERYL ROSINATE, RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL, HYDROGENATED VEGETABLEOIL, sold under the name EFP BIOTEK), and pentaerythritol rosin esters sold under the names RESIESTER N 35 S and RESIESTER 80.

[0102] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from poly(carboxylated) (C2-C6) alkane or poly(carboxylated) (C2-C6) olefin adducts, particularly from maleic acid and rosin acid adducts.

[0103] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from phenol-modified rosin. In particular, those modified by (C1-C4) alkylene phenols or diphenols may be substituted with one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl or tert-butyl, and more particularly rosin modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidene diphenol (bisphenol A).

[0104] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from dimerized rosin; especially those obtained by polymerizing abietic acid. Preferably, the rosin contains more than 50% dimeric acid and is therefore called dimerized rosin. According to one embodiment, the rosin is polymerized and contains 30% to 90% by weight of dimeric acid (especially at least 40%, 60%, or 80% by weight of dimeric acid).

[0105] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from hydrogenated rosin. In particular, the double bonds of acids such as abietic acid are oxidized, which can be removed by hydrogenation. It should be understood that the resin of the present invention can be esterified, salified, added, phenolically modified, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

[0106] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises at least one rosin ester selected from glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythritol rosin ester, silicone rosin ester, diethylene glycol rosin ester, dilinoleyl dimer hydrogenated rosin ester, dipentaerythritol hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosin ester, glyceryl dibenzyl rosin ester / hydrogenated rosin ester, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosin ester, triglyceryl hydrogenated rosin ester, diol rosin ester, hydrogenated methyl rosin ester, methyl rosin ester, hydrogenated pentaerythritol rosin ester, fortified triethylene glycol rosin ester, and mixtures thereof.

[0107] According to specific embodiments, the resin of the present invention is selected from hydrogenated pentaerythritol rosinate (pentaerythritol hydrogenated rosinate) and hydrogenated methyl rosinate (hydrogenated rosinate) sold under the name SYMRISE BIO4326.

[0108] Furthermore, the resin of the present invention can be mixed with fatty substances (especially waxes or butter). Specifically, it can be mentioned that mixtures of rosin acid glycerides with one or more fatty substances (particularly selected from waxes or butter), such as mixtures formed with shea butter or olive oil, such as (rosin acid glycerides, castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil), shea butter rosin acid glycerides, unsaponifiable rosin acid glycerides of olive oil, and unsaponifiable rosin oil, are sold by SHEA BUTTER & GLYCERYL ROSINATE & OILS.

[0109] v) Resins extracted from plant waxes Natural plant waxes are not considered resins themselves. Although they are among the substances secreted / exuded by plants, they naturally contain very low levels of resin, less than 30% by weight of terpenes relative to the total weight of the wax. For example, carnauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of the Copernicus palm to prevent the leaves from drying out. Candelilla wax is derived from a shrub called Euphorbia Antisyphilitica in northern Mexico. Waxes protect plants from the effects of the medium and prevent excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax is mainly composed of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20 to 29%), free acids (7 to 9%), and resins (12 to 14%, mainly triterpenoid esters).

[0110] However, within the meaning of this invention, the definition of "natural resin" also includes resins derived from plant waxes, provided that they have been previously concentrated, separated, or extracted from these waxes, provided that the resin or terpene component in question contains the minimum amount of terpene required by this invention (30% by weight of the total component). Of particular note is candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), named INCI: EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (candelilla) wax extract, sold by JAPANNATURAL PRODUCTS under the name CANDELILLA RESIN E-1. WO2013 / 147113 A1 also relates to carnauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from carnauba wax, and possessing physical properties similar to those of conventionally described natural resins, such as softening temperature rather than melting temperature, thus distinguishing the resin from the wax.

[0111] Table 1 of the embodiments illustrates certain characteristic differences in the thermal properties between the waxes and resins according to the present invention.

[0112] The resin has a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but no melting temperature.

[0113] For waxes with a melting point, the situation is exactly the opposite.

[0114] Preferably, the resin is selected from resins j), k), and t) as described above, and resin v) extracted from wax (especially candelilla or carnauba wax), and mixtures thereof.

[0115] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from the following grades (indicated by their INCI names) used alone or in mixtures: Resin extracted from plant waxes (resins of type v), preferably candlewood (CANDELILLA) wax extract, such as CANDELILLA RESIN E-1 sold by JAPAN NATURAL PRODUCTS, BOTANICAL RESIN sold by CERA RICA NODA, and TOWAX-1F12 sold by TOA KASEI. Incense resin (type k resin), preferably P seven-leaf white hoof fruit resin, or white hoof fruit resin, or white bruin resin, which can be sold, for example, by CITROLEO or Ephyla. A fragrance resin derived from the salsa tree, salsa resin. The resin can be mixed with one or more fatty substances, preferably selected from volatile or non-volatile oils. For example, a mixture of salsa resin and sunflower seed oil sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 (salsa resin, sunflower (sunflower) seed oil, tocopherol: salsa resin 50% to 75% by weight, sunflower seed oil 25% to 50% by weight); and a mixture of salsa resin and octyldodecanol sold under the name KAHLRESIN 6720 (salsa resin and octyldodecanol; salsa resin 50% to 70% by weight, octyldodecanol 30% to 50% by weight) (type k resin); and Rosin (type t resin), preferably arosin esters (resins), such as glyceryl arosinate sold under the name RESIESTER GUM A 35, glyceryl arosinate in mixtures with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor oil (glyceryl arosinate, castor oil, hydrogenated vegetable oil sold under the name EFP BIOTEK), pentaerythritol arosinate sold under the names RESIESTER N 35S and RESIESTER 80, or hydrogenated arosin esters, such as pentaerythritol hydrogenated roseinate, or methyl hydrogenated roseinate sold under the name SYMRISE BIO4326.

[0116] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from resins extracted from candelilla wax; incense resins, such as probemaphyllum resin or probemaphyllum resin or white breu resin; incense resins derived from sal trees, such as smokea rhusta resin; and glyceryl rosin esters. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin is selected from resins extracted from candelilla wax; incense resins, such as probemaphyllum resin or probemaphyllum resin or white breu resin; and incense resins derived from sal trees, such as smokea rhusta resin.

[0117] According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the resin is selected from the wax extract of Candelilla chinensis.

[0118] Advantageously, the resin is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably 0.8% to 22% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1.2% to 15% by weight, preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, or even more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0119] Advantageously, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, and preferably free of synthetic resins.

[0120] Advantageously, the compositions of the present invention contain less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, and preferably free of silicone resin, i.e., synthetic resin, wherein the basic structure is a chain containing siloxane groups (silicon-oxygen-silicon bonds).

[0121] According to one embodiment, in the composition according to the invention, the weight ratio between chitosan and natural resin (i.e., chitosan:natural resin weight ratio) is from 0.00025 to 150, preferably from 0.001 to 100. Preferably, this weight ratio is between 0.01 and 50, more preferably between 0.05 and 10, and even more preferably between 0.1 and 2.5.

[0122] Pigment coloring materials The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigment coloring material. This coloring material is selected from powdered coloring materials, such as mineral pigments, nacre, and organic pigments.

[0123] "Pigment" refers to white or colored mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in aqueous media and are intended to color the resulting compositions and / or deposits.

[0124] The coloring material is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 1% to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 2% to 40% by weight, preferably from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 6% to 20% by weight, and preferably from 8% to 18% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0125] Mineral pigments According to a specific embodiment, the pigments used in this invention are selected from mineral pigments.

[0126] "Mineral pigment" refers to any pigment as defined in the inorganic pigments section of the Ullmann Encyclopedia. Among the mineral pigments that can be used in this invention are zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow, or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, hydrated chromium and iron blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders such as aluminum and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta₂O₅, Ti₃O₅, Ti₂O₃, TiO, mixtures of ZrO₂ and TiO₂, ZrO₂, Nb₂O₅, CeO₂, and ZnS.

[0127] Pigments used in the context of this invention typically have a size greater than 5 nm, preferably greater than 10 nm, more preferably greater than 20 nm, more preferably greater than 100 nm, and can be in the range of up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. According to a specific embodiment of the invention, the pigment has a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm, and the range is up to 10 μm, preferably 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably 300 nm to 1 μm. This size is measured by static light scattering using a commercially available MasterSizer 3000® particle size analyzer from Malvern, enabling the measurement of particle size distributions across a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data is processed based on classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and enables the determination of the “effective” diameter of the particles. The theory is described in detail in Van de Hulst, HC, “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D

[50] represents the maximum size of the particles at 50% by volume.

[0128] In the context of this invention, mineral pigments are more specifically iron oxides and / or titanium dioxide. As an example, titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, such as those produced by MIYOSHI KASEI under the brand name NAI, may be mentioned more specifically. ® For sale.

[0129] Nacre may also be mentioned as a mineral pigment that can be used in this invention.

[0130] "Nacre" should be understood as iridescent or non-iridescent colored particles of any shape, which are produced in the shells of certain mollusks or are synthetically produced, and which have color effects through optical interference.

[0131] Nacre can be selected from pearlescent pigments, such as mica titanium coated with iron oxides, mica titanium coated with bismuth oxychloride, mica titanium coated with chromium oxides, mica titanium coated with organic dyes, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They can also be mica particles with at least two consecutive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials superimposed on their surface. Examples of nacre also include natural mica coated with titanium oxides, iron oxides, natural pigments, or bismuth oxychloride. Among commercially available nacre, TIMICA, sold by ENGELHARD, is mentioned. ® FLAMENCO ® and DUOCHROME ® (Mica-based) Nacre, TIMIRON sold by MERCK ® Pearl-like, PRESTIGE sold by ECKART ® Based on mica-based nacre, and SUNSHINE sold by SUN CHEMICAL. ® Synthetic mica-based nacre.

[0132] More specifically, nacre can have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, golden, and / or copper color or luster. As an example of nacre that can be used in the context of this invention, particular mention can be made of nacre produced by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G. ® (Timica), Gold 222C ® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold ® (Timica), Gold 4504 ® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X ®(Cloisonne) sells golden pearls; especially those produced by MERCK under the name Bronze fine. ® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze ® (17353) (Colorona), and bronze-colored pearlescent products sold by ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); especially those sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C ® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 ® (Cosmica), and by MERCK under the name Passion Orange ® (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) ® (Microna) sells orange pearlescent products; specifically, ENGELHARD company uses the name Nu-Antique Copper 340XB. ® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 ® (Chromalite) sells brown-toned pearlescent products; specifically, those from ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A. ® (Timica) sells copper-colored, lustrous pearlescent products; particularly those from MERCK under the name Sienna Fine. ® (17386) (Colorona) sells red-lustered pearlescent pearls; especially those produced by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502). ® (Chromalite) sells yellow-lustered pearlescent pearls; particularly those from ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012. ® (Gemtone) sells pearly red with a golden-luster finish; specifically, it is produced by ENGELHARD under the name Tan Opale G005. ® Pink pearlescent material sold by (Gemtone); specifically by ENGELHARD under the name Nu Antique Bronze 240 AB. ® (Timica) sells black pearl with a golden-luster finish; specifically, it is marketed by MERCK under the name Matte Blue. ® (17433) (Microna) sold blue pearl; especially by the Merck company under the name Xirona Silver ®The white pearl with a silvery luster sold is especially produced by MERCK under the name Indian Summer. ® Xirona sells green-gold and rose-orange pearlescent pearls, as well as blends thereof.

[0133] Among the pigments usable according to the invention, those that possess optical effects distinct from simple, conventional color effects, i.e., uniform and stable effects produced by conventional coloring materials (e.g., monochromatic pigments), may also be mentioned. In the context of the invention, "stable" means the absence of color variability with viewing angle or in response to temperature changes. For example, such materials may be selected from metallic particles, angle-changing colorants, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, and especially interference fibers. Of course, these different materials may exhibit both effects simultaneously, or even provide novel effects according to the invention.

[0134] The metallic particles that can be used in this invention are particularly selected from: Particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, Particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, a single material, or multiple materials, wherein the particles are at least partially coated with at least one metallic luster layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and The mixture of particles.

[0135] Among the metals that may be present in the particles, examples include Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronze and brass) are preferred metals.

[0136] Metal derivatives are compounds derived from metals, particularly oxides, fluorides, chlorides, and sulfides.

[0137] As an example of these particles, aluminum particles, such as those produced by SIBERLINE under the model name STARBRITE 1200 EAC, may be mentioned. ® and by ECKART under the brand name METALURE ® Those that are sold.

[0138] You may also mention copper metal powder or alloy mixtures, such as grade 2844 sold by Radium Bronze; metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as ROTOSAFE 700 sold by ECKART.® Those sold by ECKART under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER ® Selling silica-coated aluminum particles; and metal alloy particles, such as those produced by Eckart under the name Visionary Bright Natural Gold. ® Silicon dioxide coated bronze (copper and zinc alloy) for sale.

[0139] The particles discussed may also be particles containing a glass substrate, such as those sold by NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

[0140] The angle-changing colorant can be selected from, for example, interference multilayer structures and liquid crystal colorants.

[0141] Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures that can be used in the compositions prepared in this invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Al, a pigment with this structure sold by DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / Al / MgF2 / Cr, produced by FLEX under the name CHROMAFLAIR. ® Pigments with this structure are sold by BASF under the name SICOPEARL; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3. ® Pigments with these structures are sold by MERCK (Darmstadt) under the name XIRONA; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, ® Pigments with this structure are sold. For example, these pigments could be produced by Merck under the name XIRONA MAGIC. ® Pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold by MERCK, pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold by MERCK under the name XIRONA INDIANSUMMER®, and pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold by MERCK under the name XIRONACARRIBEAN BLUE. ®Pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure are sold. INFINITE COLOURS pigments from SHISEIDO may also be mentioned. Different effects are achieved depending on the thickness and properties of the layers. For example, for a SiO2 layer changing from 320nm to 350nm, with a Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from golden green to grayish red; for a SiO2 layer changing from 380nm to 400nm, it changes from red to gold; for a SiO2 layer changing from 410nm to 420nm, it changes from purple to green; and for a SiO2 layer changing from 430nm to 440nm, it changes from copper to red.

[0142] As an example of a pigment with a polymer multilayer structure, one can mention COLOR GLITTER produced by 3M under the trade name. ® Those that are sold.

[0143] As angle-changing liquid crystal particles, for example, those sold by CHENIX and those marketed by WACKER under the name HELICONE can be used. ® Those sold by HC.

[0144] Hydrophobic coated pigments According to specific embodiments of the present invention, the compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, as detailed below.

[0145] This type of pigment is particularly advantageous because it can be used extensively with large amounts of water. More importantly, once treated with hydrophobic compounds, they exhibit a superior affinity for oily gel phases, thus enabling them to be carried.

[0146] Obviously, the composition according to the invention may also contain uncoated pigments.

[0147] The coating may also contain at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

[0148] For the purposes of this invention, the coating of pigments according to this invention generally refers to the application of surfactants to all or part of the surface of the pigment by means of absorption, adsorption or grafting onto the pigment.

[0149] Surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechanical, or chemical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

[0150] Surfactants can be absorbed, adsorbed, or grafted onto pigments through solvent evaporation, chemical reactions, and the formation of covalent bonds.

[0151] According to an alternative embodiment, the surface treatment consists of a coating of pigments.

[0152] The coating may account for 0.1% to 20% of the total weight of the coated pigment, particularly 0.5% to 5% of the total weight of the pigment.

[0153] For example, before incorporating the particles into other ingredients of a cosmetic or care composition, coating can be performed by simply mixing the particles and the surfactant (possibly hot) under stirring, allowing the liquid surfactant to adsorb onto the surface of the solid particles.

[0154] Coating can be performed, for example, through a chemical reaction between a surfactant and the surface of solid pigment particles, and by forming covalent bonds between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in patent US 4,578,266.

[0155] Chemical surface treatment may include diluting a surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing a pigment in the mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, causing the surfactant to deposit on the pigment surface.

[0156] Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agents When the pigment contains a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition of the present invention.

[0157] According to one specific embodiment of the invention, the pigment can be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metal soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; sebacic acid isostearate; natural plant or animal waxes; synthetic polar waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0158] silicone surfactants According to specific implementation methods, pigments can be completely or partially surface-treated with silicifying compounds.

[0159] The silanized surfactant can be selected from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Organopolysiloxane compounds are compounds that have a structure containing alternating silicon and oxygen atoms and contain organic groups bonded to silicon atoms.

[0161] Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes As non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, polydimethylsiloxane, polymethylhydrosiloxane, and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxane may be specifically mentioned.

[0162] Alkoxy groups can be represented by the RO- group, for example, R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, aryl such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl such as phenylethyl.

[0163] The method of surface treatment of pigments with polymethylhydrosiloxane involves dispersing the pigment in an organic solvent and then adding a silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are formed between the silicone compound and the pigment surface.

[0164] According to a preferred embodiment, the silanized surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, particularly selected from polydimethylsiloxane.

[0165] Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes Silanes with alkoxy functional groups are particularly described by Witucki in "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxysilanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".

[0166] Alkoxysilanes, such as those designated Milquet A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202. ® (PCR) sells alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes, which can be used to coat pigments.

[0167] The use of alkyl polysiloxanes having reactive end groups, such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino, or imino, is described in application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for treating pigments.

[0168] Silicone acrylate polymer The grafted silicone-acrylate polymers with a silicone backbone described in patents US 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477 and patents US 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582 can be used.

[0169] Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers whose structure contains units of the following formula (II): [Chemical Formula II] (II) The G1 groups may be the same or different, representing hydrogen or C1-C. 10 Alkyl or even phenyl; G2 groups may be the same or different, indicating C1-C10 alkylene groups; G3 indicates polymer residues obtained by (homogeneous) polymerization of at least one olefinic unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 indicates polymer residues obtained by (homogeneous) polymerization of at least one olefinic unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer from 10 to 350, which is an integer in the range of 0 to 50, provided that one of parameters a and c is not 0.

[0170] Preferably, the unit of formula (II) above has at least one of the following features, and even more preferably all of the following features: The G1 group refers to an alkyl group, preferably a methyl group; n is non-zero, and the G2 group represents a divalent C1-C3 group, preferably propylidene; G3 represents a polymeric group generated by the (homogeneous) polymerization of at least one olefinically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; G4 indicates that it is composed of at least one (meth)acrylic acid (C1-C4) 10 Polymer groups are produced by the homopolymerization of monomers of the alkyl ester type, preferably isobutyl methacrylate or methyl methacrylate type.

[0171] Examples of siloxane polymers conforming to formula (II) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having mixed polymer units of poly(meth)acrylic acid type and poly(meth)acrylate type grafted thereon via thiopropylene type linkages.

[0172] Other examples of siloxane polymers conforming to formula (II) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which poly(meth)acrylate isobutyl acrylate polymer units are branched via thiopropylene-type links.

[0173] silicone resin Silicone surfactants can be selected from silicone resins.

[0174] Fluorinated surfactants Fluorinated compounds can be used to completely or partially treat the surface of pigments.

[0175] Fluorinated surfactants can be selected from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), perfluorocarbons, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, and polyorganosiloxanes containing perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

[0176] Perfluoroalkyl refers to an alkyl group in which all hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

[0177] Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135 and are sold by MONTEFLUOS under the trade name FOMBLIN.

[0178] Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are specifically described in application JP H05-86984. They can be used with Asahi Glass under the brand name Asahi Guard AG530. ® The perfluoroalkyl phosphate ester - diethanolamine sold.

[0179] Among straight-chain perfluorinated hydrocarbons, perfluorinated cycloalkanes, perfluorinated (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluorinated polycyclic alkanes, aromatic perfluorinated carbons (perfluorinated aromatics), and hydrocarbon-perfluorinated organic compounds containing at least one heteroatom may be mentioned.

[0180] Among perfluoroalkanes, the straight-chain alkane series that can be mentioned are perfluorooctane, perfluorononane, or perfluorodecane.

[0181] Among perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoronaphthenes, perfluoro(methylnaphthenes), and perfluoro(C3-C5)alkylcyclohexanes such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane) can be mentioned as sold by RHODIA under the name FLUTEC PP5GMP.

[0182] Among perfluoropolycyclic alkanes, bicyclic [3.3.1]nonane derivatives, such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclic [3.3.1]nonane; adamantane derivatives, such as perfluorodimethyladamantane; and perfluorinated phenanthrene derivatives, such as tetratetrafluoro-tetradecylphenanthrene.

[0183] Among perfluoroaromatics, perfluoro derivatives of naphthalene, such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene, can be mentioned.

[0184] As an example of commercial brands of pigments treated with fluorine compounds, the following can be mentioned: Daito Kasei Company under the brand name PF 5 Yellow 601 ® Yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate for sale; Daito Kasei Company under the brand name PF 5 Red 516L ® Red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphates for sale; Daito Kasei under the brand name PF 5 Black 100 ® Black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate for sale; Daito Kasei Corporation, under the grade PF 5 TiO2 CR 50 ® Titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate esters for sale; Iron Oxide Yellow BF-25-3, manufactured by Toshiki Corporation ® Yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether for sale; D&C Red 7 FHC by Cardre Inc. ® DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethyl isopropyl ether for sale; and By Warner-Jenkinson under the brand name T 9506 ® DC Red 6 / PTFE for sale.

[0185] Fluorosilicone surfactants Pigments can be completely or partially surface-treated using compounds with fluorosilicone properties.

[0186] The fluorosilicone compounds can be selected from perfluoroalkyl polydimethylsiloxane, perfluoroalkyl silane, and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilane.

[0187] As a perfluoroalkyl silane, LP-IT, sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone, can be mentioned. ® and LP-4T ® product.

[0188] As an example of a commercial brand of pigment treated with fluorosilicone compounds, one can mention Fluorosil Titanium Dioxide 100TA by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc. ® Titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone for sale.

[0189] Other lipophilic surfactants Hydrophobic treatment agents can also be selected from (i) Metallic soaps, such as aluminum dimyristicate and aluminum salts of hydrogenated glutamic acid.

[0190] As for metallic soaps, metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, especially metallic soaps of fatty acids having 12 to 18 carbon atoms, are particularly noteworthy.

[0191] The metal in metallic soaps can be zinc or magnesium, in particular.

[0192] As a metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used.

[0193] Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from ii) fatty acids, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, and palmitic acid.

[0194] The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts, which may contain an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearyl, and cocoyl.

[0195] Amino acids can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine.

[0196] The salts of these compounds can be salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, and potassium.

[0197] Therefore, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the N-acylated amino acid derivative may be, in particular, one of the glutamate derivatives and / or its salts, more particularly stearoyl glutamate salts, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0198] Hydrophobic agents can also be selected from iv) lecithin and its derivatives.

[0199] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate.

[0200] As an example of pigments treated with isopropyl triisostearate titanate (ITT), KOBO Corporation's product under the trade name BWBO-I2 can be mentioned. ® (Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl triisostearate titanate), BWYO-I2 ® (Iron oxide CI77492 and isopropyl triisostearate titanate) and BWRO-I2 ® Those (iron oxide CI77491 and isopropyl triisostearate titanate) sold.

[0201] The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be vi) sebacic acid isostearate.

[0202] Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from vii) natural plant or animal waxes or synthetic polar waxes.

[0203] Hydrophobic treatment agents may also be selected from (viii) fatty esters, especially jojoba esters.

[0204] Hydrophobic treatment agents can also be selected from phospholipids (ix).

[0205] The waxes mentioned in the compounds cited above may be waxes commonly used in the cosmetics industry, as defined below.

[0206] Specifically, they can be hydrocarbon-based, silanized, and / or fluorinated, and may include ester or hydroxyl functional groups. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

[0207] Polar waxes are waxes containing compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they can be, for example, alcohol, ester, or carboxylic acid groups. Polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ceresin wax, and Fischer-Tropsch wax are not polar waxes.

[0208] Specifically, polar waxes exhibit, for example, δa > 0 (J / cm²) at 25°C. 3 ) 1 / 2 Even better is δa>1 (J / cm 3 ) 1 / 2 The average solubility parameter δa of HANSEN: [Mathematical Expression 1]

[0209] δp and δh are the polar and interaction-type contributions specific to the Hansen solubility parameter, respectively.

[0210] According to Hansen's definition of solvent in three-dimensional solubility space, as described in CM HANSEN's article "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" in J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967): δh characterizes specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.). δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction between permanent dipoles and the KEESOM interaction between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

[0211] The parameters δp and δh are expressed in J / cm². 3 ) 1 / 2 express.

[0212] Polar waxes are in particular composed of molecules that contain heteroatoms (such as O, N, P) in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure.

[0213] As examples of these polar waxes, rather than limiting ones, natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, grape wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japanese wax, lacquer tree wax, and mountain wax can be specifically mentioned.

[0214] According to specific embodiments, the pigment may be coated with at least one compound selected from the following: silicified surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; isopropyl tristearyl titanate; natural plant or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.

[0215] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with one of an N-acylated amino acid and / or its salt, particularly a glutamic acid derivative and / or its salt, or a fatty ester, particularly jojoba ester.

[0216] According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigment may be coated with one of an N-acylated amino acid and / or its salt, particularly one of a glutamic acid derivative and / or its salt, especially stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0217] As an example of a coated pigment according to the invention, more particularly mention can be made of titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example, those sold by MIYOSHI KASEI under the brand name NAI.

[0218] Pigments not coated with hydrophobic compounds As previously mentioned, the composition may further comprise pigments that are not coated with lipophilic or hydrophobic compounds.

[0219] These other pigments may be coated with hydrophilic compounds or left uncoated.

[0220] These pigments can be mineral pigments, especially as previously defined.

[0221] These pigments can also be organic pigments.

[0222] Organic pigments refer to any pigment as defined in the organic pigments section of the Ullman Encyclopedia. Organic pigments are particularly selected from compounds such as nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthones, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complexes, isoindolineones, isoindoline, quinacridones, perinones, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrroles, indigofera, dioxazines, triphenylmethanes, and quinolinephthalones.

[0223] Organic pigments can include, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridon, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments coded CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160 (in the color index), yellow pigments coded CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 (in the color index), green pigments coded CI 61565, 61570, 74260 (in the color index), orange pigments coded CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 7117 (in the color index), and others coded CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160 (in the color index), yellow pigments coded CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005 (in the color index), green pigments coded CI 61565, 61570, 74260 (in the color index), and orange pigments coded CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 7117 (in the color index), and others coded CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160 (in the color index). Red pigments of 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

[0224] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments, as described in patent EP1184426. These composite pigments may specifically consist of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with organic pigments and at least one adhesive for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

[0225] Pigments can also be lacquer. Lacquer refers to insoluble dyes that are adsorbed onto insoluble particles, thus maintaining their insolubility during use.

[0226] The inorganic substrate on which the dye is adsorbed is, for example, alumina, silicon dioxide, calcium and sodium borosilicates, or calcium and aluminum borosilicates, as well as aluminum.

[0227] Among organic dyes, cochineal carmine may be mentioned. Additionally, products known by the following names may also be mentioned: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0228] As an example of lacquer, one can mention the product known by the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

[0229] Properties of hydrophilic coatings As mentioned earlier, these other pigments can be coated with hydrophilic compounds.

[0230] The hydrophilic compounds that allow for surface treatment of pigments to optimize their dispersion in a gelled aqueous phase are more particularly selected from biopolymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates, or polyethylene glycol derivatives.

[0231] As an example of biopolymers, polymers based on carbohydrate-type monomers can be mentioned.

[0232] More specifically, references may be made to bioglycosides; chitosan and its derivatives, such as butoxy-chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, adipic acid chitosan, glycolic acid chitosan, lactic acid chitosan, etc.; chitin and its derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin and glycolic acid chitin; cellulose and its derivatives, such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; starch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galactosarabinane; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0233] As an example of carbohydrates, one can specifically mention those with the general formula C2. x (H2O) y Polyhydroxy aldehydes or polyhydroxy ketones; The range of x and y can be from 1 to 1,000,000.

[0234] Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides, or polysaccharides.

[0235] Examples of carbohydrates that can be specifically mentioned include starch dextrin, beta-glucan, cyclodextrin, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, wheat starch (Triticum vulgare starch), trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, and sodium chondroitin sulfate.

[0236] C1-C 20 Alkylene glycols or C1-C 20 Alkyl glycol ethers, used alone or with tri-C1-C 20 Alkylsilanes can also be used as surface treatment agents when used in combination.

[0237] For example, one could mention pigments treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane, such as the PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane-treated pigments sold by KOBO under the name SW Pigments.

[0238] Silicones such as polydimethylsiloxanes having hydrophilic groups, also known as polydimethylsiloxane copolyols or alkyl polydimethylsiloxane copolyols, are also suitable for use in this invention as surface treatment agents. In particular, the dimethylsiloxane may contain C1-C... 20 (For example, ethylene or propylene) epoxides are used as repeating units.

[0239] As an example, one could mention pigments treated with PEG-12-dimethylsiloxane, produced by SENSIENT under the name LCW·AQ. ® Pigment sales.

[0240] The amount of pigment coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or uncoated pigment is determined specifically by the purpose of the cosmetic composition under consideration, and its adjustment is clearly within the capabilities of the formulator of the composition.

[0241] According to specific embodiments, the composition further comprises at least one pigment selected from titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides, particularly coated with a hydrophobic surface treatment agent, particularly one of N-acylated amino acids and / or their salts, particularly one of glutamic acid derivatives and / or their salts, particularly stearoyl glutamate salts, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

[0242] According to a specific embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated or coated pigment, preferably at least one coated pigment.

[0243] Alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) The composition according to the present invention may contain at least one AHA.

[0244] According to the present invention, an α-hydroxy acid is a carboxylic acid having at least one hydroxyl functional group occupying the α position (the carbon adjacent to the carboxylic acid functional group) of the acid. The acid in the final composition may be in the form of a free acid and / or its associated salt (particularly with an organic base or a salt of a base), particularly depending on the final pH applied to the composition.

[0245] α-Hydroxy acids (alpha hydroxy acids or AHAs) may be selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvalerate, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, tung oil acid, ribonucleic acid, hydroxymalonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, and their salts and mixtures thereof.

[0246] According to a preferred embodiment, the α-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, and their salts. More specifically, the α-hydroxy acid is selected from lactic acid, citric acid, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

[0247] The α-hydroxy acid may be present in an amount of 0.001% to 10% by weight, 0.005% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0248] surfactants The composition may also contain at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic, cationic or anionic surfactant, with nonionic surfactant being preferred.

[0249] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant can be selected from nonionic surfactants known in the art, particularly esters of fatty acids and polyglycerols, glycol esters, poloxamers, polysorbates, and mixtures thereof.

[0250] Preferably, the nonionic surfactant is selected from fatty acids and polyglycerol esters and glycol esters, and more preferably from fatty acids and polyglycerol esters.

[0251] When present, the content of the nonionic surfactant is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, and preferably from 1% to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0252] Physiologically acceptable aqueous media The compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium. The medium includes water.

[0253] The water used can be sterile softened water and / or floral water, such as rose water, blueberry water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or natural thermal spring water or mineral water, such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or La Roche-Posay water.

[0254] The composition preferably contains at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight, even more preferably at least 70% by weight, and advantageously at least 80% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0255] The composition preferably contains 5% to 95% by weight, more preferably 10% to 85% by weight, even more preferably 20% to 80% by weight, even more preferably 25% to 75% by weight, even more preferably 28% to 70% by weight, even more preferably 30% to 65% by weight, even more preferably 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0256] The aqueous phase may also include at least one organic solvent that is miscible with water at 25°C.

[0257] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is selected from alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof.

[0258] In alcohols, C1-C can be mentioned. 10 Alcohols, more preferably C1-C5 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0259] The polyol is preferably selected from polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isopentyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, pentanediol, polyethylene glycol having 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units, and mixtures thereof.

[0260] The composition may contain 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably 2% to 5% by weight of a water-miscible organic solvent relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0261] Preferably, the weight ratio between the polyol (if present) and chitosan (i.e., the weight ratio of polyol to chitosan) is between 0.1 and 6. More preferably, it is between 0.1 and 5, more preferably between 0.2 and 5, more preferably between 0.2 and 4.5, and more preferably between 0.5 and 2.

[0262] oil phase The compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one oil phase. When the compositions used according to the invention comprise an oil phase, the oil phase preferably comprises at least one oil, especially a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

[0263] "Oil" refers to oil that is heated at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.01310). 5 The substance below (Pa) is a liquid, a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water.

[0264] "Immeasurable" means that under the above temperature and pressure conditions, a mixture of equal amounts of water and oil will not produce a stable solution containing only one phase after stirring. 100 g of the mixture was observed visually or, if necessary, using a phase-contrast microscope, after thorough Rayneri stirring to induce eddies (200 to 1000 rpm as an indicator); the resulting mixture was allowed to stand at room temperature in a sealed flask for 24 hours prior to observation.

[0265] As an oil that can be used in the compositions of the present invention, examples may be mentioned, such as: Hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic acid or caprylic acid, or such as sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin seed oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic / capric triglycerides (such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or by Dynamit Nobel under the names Miglyol 810, 812, and 818), jojoba oil, shea butter. Esters and synthetic ethers, particularly fatty acid esters and synthetic ethers, such as oils of the formula R1COOR2 and R1OR2, where R1 represents a fatty acid residue comprising 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising 3 to 30 carbon atoms, whether or not it is branched, such as Purcellin. oil), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearate malate, triisoceryl citrate; heptanoates, octanoates, and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisonononate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate or dipentaerythritol pentaisonononate; Straight-chain or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or non-volatile paraffin oils and their derivatives; branched hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms, such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof; petrolatum; polydecene; polyisobutylene; hydrogenated polyisobutylene, such as Parléam sold by NIPPON OIL FATS. ® PANALANE H-300 E sold by AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 sold by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 sold by WITCO, or PARLEAM LITE sold by NOF AG, branched alkanes in single or mixed form, such as a mixture of undecane and tridecane sold by BASF under the name Cétiol UT, or alkanes of plant (especially coconut) origin, such as those sold by BIOSYNTHIS under the name VEGELIGHT SILK, or a mixture of C13-15 alkanes sold by AMYRIS under the name NEOSSANCE HEMISQUALANE CN; Certain hydrocarbons and / or silicone fluorinated oils, as described in document JP-A-2-295912; or A mixture of them.

[0266] The composition may contain 5% to 90% by weight, preferably 7% to 80% by weight, more preferably 10% to 60% by weight, and advantageously 15% to 40% by weight of an oil phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0267] According to a preferred embodiment, the oil phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil, with a weight content of less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, and preferably less than or equal to 8%. Advantageously, the weight ratio between the non-volatile oil and the resin is between 0.01 and 10, preferably between 0.1 and 5, preferably between 0.2 and 3, and preferably between 0.5 and 1.

[0268] "Non-volatile oil" refers to an oil that can be retained on keratin materials for at least a few hours at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially one with a vapor pressure of less than 10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

[0269] The oil can be selected from the oils mentioned above.

[0270] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises volatile oils and / or volatile alcohols.

[0271] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" refers to any oil that can evaporate upon contact with skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil of this invention is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at room temperature and has a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm Hg), preferably 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0272] The volatile oil may be selected from hydrocarbon volatile oils, silicone volatile oils, fluorinated volatile oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from hydrocarbon volatile oils.

[0273] Volatile hydrocarbon oils can be selected from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, particularly branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as petroleum-derived C8-C16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, under the trade name Isopars ® or Permethyls ® Oil for sale.

[0274] Specifically, the compositions according to the present invention may contain isododecane, cyclopentadioxane, isohexadecane, or mixtures thereof.

[0275] The composition according to the invention may contain: a volatile oil in a content of 1% to 60% by weight, preferably 5% to 50% by weight, more preferably 10% to 40% by weight, and even more preferably 15% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0276] Volatile alcohols refer to C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and n-propanol.

[0277] The composition according to the invention may contain, relative to the total weight of the composition, a volatile alcohol of a water-miscible organic solvent in an amount of 0.1% to 25% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1% to 15% by weight, even more preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, and advantageously 2% to 5% by weight.

[0278] pH of the composition The pH of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, and more preferably less than or equal to 6.3. Advantageously, the pH of the composition is between 3 and 6.3, preferably between 4 and 6.3.

[0279] Preferably, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one base and / or at least one acid. The bases and acids according to the invention are known and commonly used in the cosmetics field.

[0280] Bases and / or acids are particularly used to adjust the final pH of the composition between 3 and 6.3.

[0281] The acid can be, for example, citric acid.

[0282] The alkali can be selected from mineral alkalis, such as alkali metal hydroxides, sodium hydroxide, and potassium hydroxide.

[0283] Preferably, the base of the composition is an alkali metal hydroxide, preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.

[0284] The composition according to the invention may contain at least one base, the content of which is 0.5% to 10% by weight, particularly 1% to 5% by weight, and preferably 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Detailed Implementation

[0285] The compositions according to the present invention can be obtained by those skilled in the art through conventional means.

[0286] The following examples illustrate the present invention. Unless otherwise stated, percentages are weight percentages (%w / w) relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0287] Example Element: [Table 1]

[0288] Example 1: Preparation of the composition according to the present invention and comparison with a comparative composition Compositions B and D according to the present invention were prepared, and compositions A, C and E were compared.

[0289] Compositions B and D according to the present invention comprise chitosan, candelilla resin, and pigment.

[0290] Comparative compositions A and C contain chitosan and pigments, but not candelilla resin.

[0291] Comparative composition E contains resin but does not contain chitosan.

[0292] Compositions A and B are inverse emulsions, while compositions C through E are direct emulsions.

[0293] Scheme for spreading the composition into a film Each composition was spread using a spreading table (Elcometer 4340 spreader) that allowed for adjustable spreading speed and length. The table was equipped with a suction system connected to a pump, ensuring the product did not move on the carrier on which it was spread. A contrast chart (1 byko chart, uncoated N2A, code 2831) with a black background and an unpainted white background was used. The spreading thickness was adjustable using a square spreader placed on the carrier, allowing for leveling on the open platform. Each segment of the spreader could be spread at different thicknesses from 25 μm to 200 μm. A thickness of 25 μm was selected to approximate the thickness of the in vivo membrane. During spreading, a 960 g weight was added above the spreader. The spreading speed was set to 1 in / sec, or 2.54 cm / s. The membrane was dried at room temperature and humidity (RH) (50% RH) for 24 hours.

[0294] Contrast measurement scheme for covering objectives Color measurements were performed using a Konica Minolta CM-700d spectrophotometer. Contact measurement ensured no light pollution.

[0295] Selected settings: 8 mm aperture; uncertainty: 0.04; SCI / SCE measurement; geometry d / 8°.

[0296] Color measurements under two backgrounds (black background FN and white background FB) allow the foundation's coverage to be characterized by calculating the "contrast ratio" (CR%), which is YFN / YFB × 100. YFN and YFB are the brightness values ​​measured under black and white backgrounds, respectively, with higher brightness values ​​when the foundation has good coverage.

[0297] Test scheme for dryness resistance, water resistance and oil resistance Water abrasion resistance was tested by colorimetric measurement of the dry film before and after abrasion. A wet paper towel (Chicopee) was used... ®If necessary, wet the Veraclean™ Polish Plus (paper towel containing 400µL of water or oil) and attach it to a 25µm section of the spreader for abrasion. During abrasion, add a 960g weight above the spreader. Set the table speed to 2.54cm / s.

[0298] The same spectrophotometric method as described above was used to measure the color before and after wear.

[0299] To assess abrasion resistance, a “comparison ratio” was measured before friction (CR dry deposit, %) and after wear (CR dry deposit Fric, %). The loss [(CR dry deposit Fric – CR dry deposit] / CR dry deposit]*100 quantifies the loss of covering force as a percentage and indicates the membrane’s abrasion resistance: the lower the loss, the stronger the membrane’s abrasion resistance.

[0300] Therefore, each CR value represents the average of 3 to 6 measurements.

[0301] Results of reverse emulsion: Compositions A and B are prepared as follows: Preparation of the aqueous phase: Chitosan was slowly added to water under Rayneri deflocculation conditions. Lactic acid was then added, and the mixture was allowed to stand at 300 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0302] Meanwhile, in the final beaker, isododecane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, polyglycerol-6 polyricinoleate, and antiflocculating Rayneri resin were mixed at 250 rpm.

[0303] The aqueous phase was slowly added to the final beaker by increasing the rotation speed to 500 rpm.

[0304] Add the dried pigment, then add the alcohol.

[0305] The results are shown in Table 2.

[0306] [Table 2]

[0307] *The pigments used in the composition are a mixture of TiO2 pigments surface-treated with stearoyl glutamate and iron oxide treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide (Miyoshi Kasei's NAI-White An and NAI-BHP-10, NAI-YHP-10 and NAI-R-800HP-10). The results showed that, compared with comparative composition A, composition B according to the present invention has better water resistance and drying properties. These reverse emulsion tests show that the presence of candelilla resin significantly improves coverage under dry friction or in the presence of water in formulations already containing 2% deacetylated chitosan.

[0308] Results of direct emulsion: Compositions C to E are prepared as follows: In the final beaker, under Rayneri deflocculation conditions, the surfactant and water were mixed, chitosan was added, followed by lactic acid, and the mixture was held at 300 rpm for 5 minutes.

[0309] The resin and isododecane were mixed, and then the mixture was added to the aqueous phase by regularly increasing the rotation speed from 300 rpm to 1000 rpm.

[0310] Add the dried pigment, then add the alcohol.

[0311] The results are shown in Table 3.

[0312] [Table 3]

[0313] *The pigments used in the composition are a mixture of TiO2 pigments surface-treated with stearoyl glutamate and iron oxides treated with disodium stearoyl glutamate / aluminum hydroxide (Miyoshi Kasei's NAI-White An and NAI-BHP-10, NAI-YHP-10 and NAI-R-800HP-10).

[0314] The results showed that composition D according to the present invention exhibited better water resistance compared to comparative composition C. Comparative composition E underwent a phase shift.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition, particularly a cosmetic composition for applying makeup and / or care to the skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes and / or hair, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) At least 0.01% by weight of natural chitosan with a molecular weight strictly greater than 3000 Daltons, relative to the total weight of the composition, and the amount is strictly less than 15% by weight. b) At least one natural resin.

2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein, The natural chitosan has a molecular weight greater than or equal to 10 kDa, preferably greater than or equal to 15 kDa, more preferably greater than or equal to 20 kDa, and preferably between 10 kDa and 2 MDa, more preferably between 15 kDa and 1.5 MDa, more preferably between 20 kDa and 300 kDa, more preferably between 20 kDa and 200 kDa.

3. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, The natural chitosan has a degree of chitosan acetylation of less than or equal to 80%, preferably less than or equal to 70%, preferably less than or equal to 60%, preferably less than or equal to 50%, preferably less than or equal to 35%, preferably less than or equal to 25%, and preferably less than or equal to 15%.

4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The natural chitosan is a polysaccharide prepared from fungal sources, preferably derived from the mycelium of ascomycete fungi, and especially derived from Aspergillus niger (…). Aspergillus niger ), and / or basidiomycetes, and especially shiitake mushrooms ( Lentinula edodes ) and / or button mushrooms ( Agaricus bisporus Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.

5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The natural chitosan is present in an amount of 0.01% to 14% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 14% by weight, preferably 0.1% to 12% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 7% by weight, preferably 0.25% to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3% to 3% by weight, or even more preferably 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The natural resin comprises at least 30% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 50% by weight, and even more preferably at least 60% by weight, or at least 70% by weight based on the total weight of the resin.

7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The natural resin, either alone or in mixtures, is selected from the following resins: Resin extracted from plant waxes, preferably candelilla wax extract; Incense resin, preferably agaric resin, or agaric resin, or agaric resin; Aromatic resin derived from the sal tree, salsa resin, alone or in mixture with one or more fatty substances preferably selected from volatile or non-volatile oils, preferably a mixture of salsa resin and sunflower seed oil, and a mixture of salsa resin and octyldodecyl alcohol. as well as Rosin, preferably arosin esters, such as glyceryl arosinate, a mixture of glyceryl arosinate and hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor oil, pentaerythritol arosin ester or hydrogenated arosin esters, such as hydrogenated pentaerythritol arosin ester or hydrogenated methyl arosinate.

8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The natural resin may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably 0.2% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably 0.8% to 22% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, more preferably 1.2% to 15% by weight, preferably 1.5% to 10% by weight, or even more preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The weight ratio of chitosan to natural resin (i.e., the weight ratio of chitosan to natural resin) is 0.00025 to 150, preferably 0.001 to 100, preferably 0.01 to 50, preferably 0.05 to 10, and even more preferably 0.1 to 2.

5.

10. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprises at least one compound selected from pigment coloring materials.

11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein, The pigment coloring material is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine, hydrated chromium and iron blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder, nacre and mineral pigments.

12. The composition according to claim 10, wherein, The pigment coloring material is an organic pigment selected from compounds of the following types: nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthones, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolineone, isoindoline, quinacridone, pyrene, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigofera, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinoline phthalocyanine.

13. The composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, wherein, The pigment coloring material is selected from mineral pigments, preferably from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, zinc oxide or chromium oxide, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the pigment is selected from titanium dioxide, iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

14. The composition according to any one of claims 10 to 13, wherein, The pigment coloring material is present in an amount of 0.5% to 70% by weight, preferably 1% to 60% by weight, preferably 1% to 50% by weight, preferably 2% to 40% by weight, preferably 4% to 30% by weight, preferably 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 6% to 20% by weight, preferably 8% to 18% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

15. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprises 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, of silicone relative to the total weight of the composition.

16. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims is substantially free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers; preferably, the composition contains less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably 0.1% by weight of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably, the composition is completely free of silicones other than film-forming or adhesive silicone polymers; preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of silicones, advantageously, the composition is completely free of silicones.

17. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein, The physiologically acceptable aqueous medium comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 25% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, preferably at least 40% by weight of water; and, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% by weight to 95% by weight, more preferably from 10% by weight to 85% by weight, even more preferably from 20% by weight to 80% by weight, even more preferably from 25% by weight to 75% by weight, even more preferably from 28% by weight to 70% by weight, even more preferably from 30% by weight to 65% by weight, even more preferably from 35% by weight to 60% by weight of water; and, possibly, at 25°C, at least one organic solvent miscible with water, said at least one organic solvent being selected from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof, preferably, the weight ratio of the polyol to chitosan in the presence is 0.1 to 6, preferably 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.2 to 5, preferably 0.2 to 4.5, preferably 0.5 to 2.

18. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprises at least one α-hydroxy acid, preferably selected from lactic acid, citric acid, methyl lactic acid, glucuronic acid, glycolic acid, pyruvic acid, 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2-hydroxyvalerate, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, gluconic acid, galacturonic acid, tung oil acid, ribonucleic acid, hydroxymalonic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, fumaric acid, and their salts and mixtures thereof.

19. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims has a pH of less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6.5, preferably less than or equal to 6.3, preferably between 3 and 6.3, and preferably between 4 and 6.

3.

20. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprises at least one oil phase, preferably, the oil phase comprises at least one oil, particularly a cosmetic oil; preferably, the composition is a direct or inverse emulsion.

21. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprises at least one surfactant, preferably a nonionic surfactant; preferably, the surfactant content is from 0.01% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

22. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one non-volatile oil, wherein the weight content of said at least one non-volatile oil is less than or equal to 40%, preferably less than or equal to 30%, preferably less than or equal to 20%, preferably less than or equal to 15%, preferably less than or equal to 10%, preferably less than or equal to 8%; and / or, the weight ratio of said non-volatile oil to said resin is 0.01 to 10, preferably 0.1 to 5, preferably 0.2 to 3, preferably 0.5 to 1.

23. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims further comprises a volatile oil and / or a volatile alcohol.

24. A method for applying cosmetics and / or care to the skin and / or skin appendages, wherein, The composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied to the skin and / or skin appendages.

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