COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A CELLULOSE ETHER, A SPECIAL POLYESTER, VOLATILE COMPOUNDS AND A SILICA-TYPE FILLER, AND THE PROCESS FOR ITS IMPLEMENTATION

Abstract

Title: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A CELLULOSE ETHER, A SPECIFIC POLYESTER, VOLATILE COMPOUNDS, AND A SILICA-TYPE FILLER, AND A METHOD FOR IMPLEMENTING IT. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, particularly for making up human keratinous materials, especially skin and / or lips, comprising: - at least one natural resin, - at least one alkylcellulose having a C2-C3 alkyl group, - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii), and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, (ii) at least one dimeric acid, and (iii) at least one monofatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacting components (i), (ii), and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3 to 0.5 to 1 mole of acid dimer and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid, - at least one C2-C6 mono-alcohol, - at least one volatile oil,- at least one polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent, preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester, - optionally at least one hydrocarbon non-volatile oil, different from the aforementioned polyester, or silicone-based, as well as mixtures thereof, - at least one silica-type filler. It also relates to a treatment process, particularly for cosmetic purposes, of human keratinous materials, in which this composition is applied to said keratinous materials.

Description

Title of the invention: COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A NATURAL RESIN, A CELLULOSE ETHER, A SPECIAL POLYESTER, VOLATILE COMPOUNDS AND A FILLER OF TYPE SILICA, AND THE PROCESS FOR IMPLEMENTING IT

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably makeup in particular for the skin and / or lips, preferably for the lips, comprising at least one natural resin, at least one alkylcellulose, at least one polyester obtained by reaction of a polyglycerol-3, a dimeric acid and a monoacid in C8-C30, at least one monoalcohol, at least one volatile oil, at least one polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent, preferably compatible with said polyester and at least one silica-type filler, as well as a process implementing it.

[0002] Many cosmetic compositions, particularly makeup containing colorants such as foundations, concealers, lipsticks, and lip glosses, have been developed to improve application durability and transfer resistance. Indeed, poor durability can result in a loss of color intensity over time. This consequently forces the user to reapply makeup more often than desired, which can be considered a waste of time.

[0003] Improving the durability of compositions is achieved through compositions that form a film after application. Such compositions generally contain volatile solvents that evaporate upon contact with the skin or lips, leaving behind a layer comprising waxes and / or film-forming polymers, pigments, and fillers. Film-forming polymers are synthetic polymers, often silicone or acrylic. Examples include silicone resins, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name), or those containing silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer (INCI name)). Acrylic polymers such as Acrylic Acid / Isobutyl Acrylate / Isosomal Acrylate Copolymer are also used.However, these compositions are often considered less comfortable, or even uncomfortable, from a sensory point of view for consumers.

[0004] Furthermore, in recent years, consumers have become more demanding regarding the composition of their cosmetic products and are particularly seeking to minimize the content of silicone compounds, or even to eliminate them altogether. In return, they are looking to use products with a higher content of natural or naturally derived ingredients, ingredients with a minimized environmental impact, and / or ingredients that are compatible with a wide range of packaging.

[0005] Thus, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is, products whose design and development take environmental issues into account, is becoming a major concern in order to help meet global challenges. It is therefore essential to offer more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients that can address these environmental challenges.

[0006] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.

[0007] The difficulty remains, however, to reconcile these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they have become accustomed with the products they already use, which include, in particular, silicone film-forming polymers.

[0008] We are therefore still looking for high-performance, comfortable makeup compositions that also have very good staying power, without the need to use the film-forming polymers classically used, in particular silicone polymers, and which are more environmentally friendly, by using for example more natural or naturally derived compounds.

[0009] These problems and others are solved by the present invention, which relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably makeup, of human keratinous materials, in particular skin and / or lips, preferably lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one natural resin, - at least one alkylcellulose having the alkyl group in C2-C3, preferably ethylcellulose, - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 (ii) at least one dimeric acid, and (iii) at least one fatty acid mono-compound having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acid mono-compound, - at least one monoalcohol in the C2-C6 range, more particularly in the C2-C4 range, preferably ethanol, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent, preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester, - possibly at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, other than the aforementioned polyester, or silicone oil, as well as mixtures thereof, - at least one silica-type filler.

[0010] The present invention also relates to a method for processing human keratinous materials, preferably makeup, in which the aforementioned cosmetic composition is applied to human keratinous materials, in particular the skin and / or lips, preferably the lips.

[0011] The composition according to the invention has the advantage of being stable over time, easy to apply, and does not dewet upon application or blotting. Furthermore, the resulting deposit is precise, homogeneous, non-stringy, and slightly or not at all sticky. The deposit does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines, particularly around the lips.

[0012] The resulting deposit has very good adhesion. It is also comfortable, without leaving any sensation of dryness or tightness.

[0013] The composition according to the invention is advantageously in the form of a liquid composition.

[0014] By "liquid composition" is meant any composition which has one or more of the following characteristics:

[0015] i) flows by its own weight at ambient temperature (20°C) and atmospheric pressure (1.013 .105 Pa);

[0016] ii) is not solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure and whose viscosity or consistency can be measured, characterized by its hardness;

[0017] iii) does not have any particular shape such as that which can be obtained by hot casting in a mold or container of a given shape.

[0018] Such compositions can therefore be found in particular in fluid, creamy, pasty or gel form. Protocol for measuring viscosity

[0019] Viscosity measurement is generally carried out at 25°C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a spindle no. 2, no. 3 or no. 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile within the composition (time at the end of which a stabilization of the viscosity and the rotation speed of the mobile is observed), at a speed of 200 revolutions / min (rpm).

[0020] According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may have a viscosity at 25°C of between 0.1 and 25 Pa.s, preferably between 0.2 and 20 Pa.s. Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention may be between 0.2 and 15 Pa.s.

[0021] POLYGLYCEROL-3 POLYESTER / DIMER ACID / FATTY MONO ACID

[0022] The composition according to the invention includes at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids.

[0023] The term "polyester" refers to any polymer obtained by the condensation reaction of polycarboxylic acids with alcohols or glycols. Its macromolecular skeleton contains a repeating ester functional group. The ester functional group is a characteristic group formed by an atom bonded simultaneously to an oxygen atom by a double bond and to an alkoxy group. When the bonded atom is a carbon atom, it is called a carboxylic ester, whose general formula is R-COO-R'.

[0024] By "polyglycerol-3" is meant triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture.

[0025] The polyesters of the invention are described together with their synthesis in US patent applications 2021 / 0259945, US 2021 / 0259946 and US 2021 / 0259930 in the name of Nouryon.

[0026] According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

[0027] By "substantially non-sequential reaction product", we mean the product obtained by a substantially non-sequential reaction of the reactive components (i)-(iii).

[0028] By "totally non-sequential reaction of the reactant components (i)-(iii)", it is meant that the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before starting the reaction.

[0029] In one embodiment of the present invention, the total content of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) to be reacted is added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins, i.e., the reaction is completely non-sequential, and the polymer is a completely non-sequential reaction product of components (i)-(iii). In other embodiments, 70-100%, or 75-100%, or 80-100%, or 85-100%, or 90-100%, or 95-100%, or 97-100% of each of the reactants (i)-(iii) are added to the reaction vessel before the reaction begins.

[0030] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3. POLYGLYCEROL-3

[0031] Triglycerol has the formula H-[-OGly]3-OH in which Gly designates a remainder of glycerol after the removal of two hydroxyl groups.

[0032] A polyglycerol-3 according to the invention, in the form of a mixture of polyglycerols containing at least triglycerol, comprises polyglycerols that may be any oligocondensation product of glycerol. Said polyglycerols preferably conform to the formula (I): H[-O-Gly-]n-OH, in which each Gly is independently the residue of a glycerol molecule after the removal of two hydroxyl groups; and n is an average of 2 to 10.

[0033] Generally, most Gly groups are of the formula: -CH2-CHOH-CH2 -, although residues including etherification at the level of secondary or even tertiary hydroxyl groups are considered to be within the framework of "Gly" and, consequently, may also be present.

[0034] Examples of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form include diglycerol, triglycerol, tetraglycerol, pentaglycerol, hexaglycerol, heptaglycerol, octaglycerol, nonaglycerol, decaglycerol, and mixtures thereof. In particular, preferred polyglycerols are those of formula (I) in which n is in particular from 2 to 7, more particularly from 2 to 5, and especially 2, 3, or 4, or mixtures of polyglycerols in these ranges.

[0035] Particularly suitable examples of polyglycerol-3 include a mixture of polyglycerols having the following distribution in which all weight percentages are based with respect to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form. - glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight, preferably 0 to 20% by weight, preferably 0 to 15% by weight; - diglycerol: 10 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, preferably 20 to 32% by weight; - triglycerol: 10 to 65% by weight, preferably 15 to 60% by weight, preferably 18 to 55% by weight; - tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, preferably 8 to 20% by weight; - pentaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - hexaglycerol: 0 to 15% by weight, preferably 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight; - heptaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - octaglycerol: 0 to 10% by weight, preferably 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight; - nonaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight; - decaglycerol: 0 to 5% by weight, preferably 0 to 3% by weight, preferably 0 to 2% by weight.

[0036] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprises the following polyglycerol distribution: Glycerol: 0 to 30% by weight; Diglycerol: 15 to 40% by weight; Triglycerol: 10 to 55% by weight; Tetraglycerol: 2 to 25% by weight; Pentaglycerol and higher components: 0 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 as a mixture.

[0037] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0038] In one embodiment, a polyglycerol-3 in mixture form is composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol; wherein all the weight percentages are relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0039] A particularly preferred polyglycerol-3 mixture comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

[0040] Analysis of such a polyglycerol-3 composition can be performed to determine its median or "mean" polyglycerol number. The examples of polyglycerols above with narrow and broad distributions can also be designated as polyglycerol-3, since this is the integer closest to the mean and / or median. ACID DIMERE

[0041] The dimeric acid can be any dicarboxylic acid having at least 4 carbon atoms. They can be linear or branched, such as for example the dimers prepared from malonic acid, succinic acid, fumaric acid, dimethylglutaric acid or trimethyladipic acid, and their anhydrides.

[0042] Dimeric fatty acids are particularly useful. As is known, they are mixtures of acyclic and cyclic dicarboxylic acids obtained by a catalyzed dimerization reaction of unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0043] For the preparation and use of dimer acids and their physical and chemical properties, reference will be made to the publication "The Dimer Acids: The Chemical and physical properties, reactions and applications", Ed. EC Leonard; Humko Sheffield Chemical, 1975, Memphis, Tenn.

[0044] Dicarboxylic acids may also contain, to a lesser extent, tri- and polyfunctional carboxylic acids. The functionality of the mixture should not exceed an average molar value of 2.4.

[0045] Preferred dimeric acids are typically derived from triglycerides rich in Cl8 ester groups, which can be hydrolyzed to produce C18 unsaturated mono-fatty acids. Raw materials can be derived from tallow oil and rapeseed oil, but other natural sources such as flaxseed, soybeans, pumpkin seeds, and walnuts can be used. The target mono-acids used in the reaction are rich in the forms of oleic and linoleic acids described in the fatty acid list below. Dimerization leads primarily to the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids, but trimers are also formed. After the reaction, the product can be stored as a mixture of reaction products or it can be further distilled or otherwise separated into molecular weight fractions.In one embodiment, the dimerization reaction produces a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight) of dimeric acid (C36 diacid) but also produces C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight).

[0046] In one case, a standard dimeric acid commercially available from Croda, Pripol 1025®, is used, which contains 72% by weight of dimer and 19% by weight of trimer acid.

[0047] In another case, a hydrogenated standard dimeric acid from Oleon, Radiacid 0960®, is used, which contains 87 wt% dimer and 10 wt% trimeric acid. In both cases, the polymer as described is characterized by a higher molecular weight, greater hydrophobicity, and higher viscosity than can be provided by pure diacids of lower molecular weight. The presence of trimeric acid further improves the molecular weight and performance of these polymers.

[0048] In one embodiment, the copolymer of the present invention is prepared from at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid.

[0049] In another embodiment, the polymer is prepared from a hydrogenated dimeric acid comprising hydrogenated dimerized C18 fatty acids, which hydrogenated dimeric acid is obtained by dimerization of unsaturated Cl8 fatty acids and subsequent hydrogenation.

[0050] In one embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a trimer acid content ranging from about 5 to 25% by weight, based on a total weight of hydrogenated dimer acid.

[0051] In another embodiment, the hydrogenated dimer acid contains a majority (at least 60% by weight, more preferably at least 75% by weight, but at most 95% by weight, or better yet at most 90% by weight, or even better still at most 85% by weight) of hydrogenated dimer acid (C36 diacid) and also contains hydrogenated C54 trimer acids (less than 30% by weight, more preferably less than 25% by weight, but more than 5% by weight, more preferably more than 10% by weight). FATTY MONOACID

[0052] C8-C30 mono-fatty acids can include natural or refined fatty acids, such as hydrolyzed rapeseed oil, sunflower oils, etc., but these contain both lower and higher molecular weight chains. Useful mono-fatty acids can be linear, branched, saturated, unsaturated, and aromatic, with acidity provided by carboxylic acid fractions.

[0053] Acids suitable for the invention include caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), capric acid (C10), undecylic acid (C11), lauric acid (C12), tridecylic acid (C13), myristic acid (C14), pentadecylic acid (C15), palmitic acid (C16), margaric acid (C17), stearic acid (C18), isostearic acid (C18), nonadecyl acid (C19), arachidic acid (C20), behenic acid (C22) and lignoceric acid (C24).

[0054] Comparison of stearic and isostearic acids shows that branching leads to a high melting point and results in low viscosity at temperature Ambient viscosity is used for isostearic acid, compared to a solid material for stearic acid. This lower viscosity can be useful in handling raw materials and also allows esters made with this acid to retain their liquid properties. Branched-chain fatty acids often contain a single methyl group along the linear carbon chain and are produced in nature by microbial action. Isotearic acid is available as a reaction byproduct in the creation of the dimeric acid described above.

[0055] Another way to obtain a liquid product is to use linear and branched unsaturated fatty acids. These unsaturated acids may include palmitoleic acid (C16:l), vaccenic acid (C18:l), oleic acid (C18:l), elaidic acid (C18:l), linoleic acid (C18:2), linolelaidic acid (C18:2), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), α-linolenic acid (C18:3), stearidonic acid (C18:4), paullinic acid (C20:l), gondolic acid (C20:l), dihomo-α-linolenic acid (C20:3), mead acid (C20:3), arachidonic acid (C20:4), eicosapentaenoic acid (C20:5), erucic acid (C22:l), docosatetraenoic acid (C22:4), cervonic acid (C22:6), and nervonic acid (C24:1). As is well known to those skilled in the art, the designation means that the carbon chain is X carbon atoms long; and there are Y double bonds in the chain.

[0056] In one embodiment, isostearic acid will be preferred.

[0057] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol, relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60% by weight of hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25% by weight of hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

[0058] In one embodiment, the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimer acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

[0059] In one embodiment, it is preferable to have a total degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments (total esterification) of 24% to 74% and a degree of esterification of the available polyglycerol hydroxyl fragments by a dimer acid alone (esterification with a dimer acid) of 20% to 40%. More importantly, the degree of esterification by the endcap units (esterification with a monoacid) is also defined in this description and it is important to maintain esterification with a monoacid of 4 to 40%.

[0060] It is preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0061] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 33% to 48% with an esterification with a dimeric acid of 20% to 28% and an esterification with a monoacid between 13% and 20%.

[0062] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 24% to 74% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 40% and an esterification with a monoacid between 4% and 40%.

[0063] It is even more preferable to have a total esterification of 28% to 57% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of 20% to 30% and an esterification with a monoacid between 8% and 27%.

[0064] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 20% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 20%.

[0065] It is also even more preferable to have a total esterification of about 40% with an esterification with a hydrogenated dimeric acid of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0066] In one embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of fatty acid.

[0067] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0068] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0069] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0070] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0071] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0072] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.2 to 1.7 mole of isostearic acid.

[0073] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.75 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.4 to 1.35 mole of isostearic acid.

[0074] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 0.7 mole of hydrogenated dimer acid and 0.65 to 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0075] In another embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.67 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 0.67 mole of isostearic acid.

[0076] In a particularly preferred embodiment, the components to be reacted are in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid and 1 mole of isostearic acid.

[0077] By adjusting the molar ratio of fatty acid termination and balancing the amount of polyglycerol-3 and dimer acid, it is also possible to control the degree of dimer-polyglycerol extension and termination so that crosslinking, for example, via the acid trimer, leads to much higher viscosities.

[0078] The target viscosity of the pure polymer must be > 50,000 mPa.s and less than 5,000,000 mPa.s at 25 °C.

[0079] In a preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 75,000 mPa.s and < 2,500,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0080] In another preferred embodiment, the target viscosity is > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0081] In a preferred embodiment of all, the target viscosity is > 1,000,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s at 25°C.

[0082] Viscosity is measured using an MCR3O2® rheometer from Anton Paar Inc. Twin flat plates, either rough or smooth, 50 mm in diameter, were used, coated with a polymer sample, fitted with a gap of 0.5 to 1 mm, and temperature and shear rate scans were performed. The polyesters of the invention exhibit Newtonian behavior and therefore have a constant viscosity over a wide range of shear rates. Furthermore, the polymers described herein have demonstrated a viscosity that decreases with temperature. Thus, the Viscosity measurements are reported at a precisely controlled temperature and usually in the form of a shear rate of 1. Values ​​are reported in mPa.s.

[0083] The polyesters of the invention are characterized by average molecular masses by weight > 2500 Da and < 1,000,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0084] The GPC column used for these tests consisted of: Phenolgel, 300 x 4.6 mm; a continuous phase of Tetrahydrofuran (THF) was used and injected at 0.35 ml / min, column oven maintained at 40°C; a 50 pL injection and a Wyatt Ri refractive index detector. The calibration standards used were strictly linear polystyrene intended for monodisperse application. The narrow-range polystyrene GPC calibration standards were prepared in mobile phase and had maximum molecular weights of 1,290,000 Da; 560,000 Da; 65,500 Da; 28,500 Da; 10,100 Da; 1,680 Da; 580 Da and 208 Da. Using standard methodologies, the average molecular mass by weight and number is automatically calculated by standard GPC software.

[0085] In a preferred embodiment, the described polyesters have a weight-average molecular weight > 4,000 Da and < 250,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards. In a preferred embodiment of all, the described polymers have a weight-average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards.

[0086] In yet another embodiment, the polyester of the invention has a combination of average molecular mass by weight > 5000 Da and < 150,000 Da measured by GPC using linear polystyrene standards and viscosity at 25°C > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.s.

[0087] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a substantially or completely non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 comprising at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60 wt% hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25 wt% hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid; in which the polymer exhibits a combination of weight average molecular weight > 5,000 Da and < 15,000 Da measured with GPC using linear polystyrene standards and pure polymer viscosity > 100,000 mPa.s and < 2,000,000 mPa.at 25°C; and in which the copolymer is also characterized by a total esterification of about 40%, an esterification with an acid. hydrogenated dimer of about 27% and an esterification with a monoacid of about 13%.

[0088] In practice, since the raw ingredients contain a range of polyglycerol units and a range of dimer and trimer acid contents, the above numbers can be adjusted using the actual (not theoretical) hydroxyl and carboxylic acid fractions as determined by methods such as mass spectrometry, NMR, and liquid chromatography. The esterification ranges above are based on the ideal structure of polyglycerol-3 and the C36 dimer acid. The actual ranges may therefore differ slightly from the values ​​given above and can be calculated based on these analytical values.

[0089] It is more practical to define the extent of polymerization by the final acid value. The initial acid values, in light of the distribution of the polyglycerol, monoacid, and polyacid fractions present, can be reliably calculated using the actual acid value determined by the crude ingredient used.

[0090] For example, the initial total acid number ("AV," which is commonly defined as mg of KOH / g of total reagent) is 135 AV. This includes 68 AV for the dimer acid and 67 AV for the isostearic acid for a preferred embodiment containing 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 mole of hydrogenated C36 dimer acid, and 1 mole of isostearic acid. All preferred ratio embodiments described above have a corresponding initial AV that can be calculated. When, during the polymerization reaction, the AV units are reduced, this ratio gives the percentage conversion of the reaction from the total initial reactive acid fractions to the final residual acid fractions.

[0091] Thus, the completion rate of the reaction is defined by 1 - final AV / initial AV.

[0092] In one embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have acid indices final concentrations of 0.1 to < 25 mg of KOH / g of polymer.

[0093] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 10 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0094] In a preferred embodiment, the polyesters of the invention have final acid indices of 0.1 to < 5 mg KOH / g of polymer.

[0095] The completion rate of the reaction being defined by the equation 1- final AV / initial AV, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures in final polymer is > 80%.

[0096] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 90%.

[0097] In a preferred embodiment, the completion rate of the reaction of such mixtures into the final polymer is > 95%.

[0098] In a preferred embodiment, the polyester of the invention is a reaction product of a polyglycerol-3, a C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0099] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one oily solution comprising: a) at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3; (ii) at least one dimeric acid; and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile oil.

[0100] Said non-volatile oil or oils may be chosen from those which will be described later.

[0101] According to an advantageous embodiment, the oily solution comprises, as non-volatile oil(s), at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing 4 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0102] The polyester oil solution can be obtained by mixing the polyester with the oil or non-volatile oils at approximately 80-100°C. The mixture is then further cooled to 50-70°C before being removed from the reactor and stored.

[0103] Said polyester oil solution preferably contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

[0104] According to a preferred embodiment, the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimer acid and isostearic acid relative to the total weight of the oily solution in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1 as described in Example 10 (copolymer) and Example 28 (oily mixture) of US document 2021 / 0259945.

[0105] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction (i) of a polyglycerol-3, and (ii) of a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) isostearic acid; components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and b) a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0106] Such an oily solution is marketed under the name Solamaze Natural® by the company Nouryon comprising 60% by weight of polyester active matter and 40% by weight of a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride relative to the total weight of the oily solution.

[0107] According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of active polyester material varies from 2.5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. NATURAL RESIN

[0108] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural resin.

[0109] A resin is generally defined as a solid, highly viscous or liquid substance of plant or synthetic origin. Resins have several specific characteristics, such as:

[0110] - the ability to harden permanently, for example for synthetics under the influence of temperature and, for natural ones, under the influence of oxygen;

[0111] - their insolubility in water and especially their good sticky and adhesive properties.

[0112] ISO4618:2014(fr) defines a resin as a "generally amorphous macromolecular product, with a consistency ranging from solid to liquid".

[0113] Natural resins are almost exclusively of plant origin (fossilized or harvested), and are secreted and then exuded from plants for defense, protection, and communication purposes within their ecosystem. Shellac, of animal origin, secreted by the insect Coccus lacca, is an exception.

[0114] By "natural resin", and in particular "plant resin", in the sense of the invention, is meant any substance comprising a minimum content of terpenic compounds, that is to say of at least 30% by weight of terpenic compounds on the total weight of the substance (or material) in question, as chemically defined below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly, from the secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (more rarely by animals), of a substance for roles of defence, protection and communication with their ecosystem.

[0115] Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is not soluble in water at room temperature (unlike latex or gums for example).

[0116] Natural resins are also considered natural adhesives which have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably of themselves without synthetic chemistry.

[0117] Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol. The resin preferably has a number-average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g / mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g / mol, better, less than or equal to 2,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g / mol, and even better, less than or equal to 1,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 1,000 g / mol. The number-average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). Thermal properties

[0118] Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they have a softening point, which designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating.

[0119] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) in the range of 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 90°C.

[0120] The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standardized conditions. It designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating. It is measurable by the ball-and-ring method (or TB A, ball-and-ring temperature) for resins according to ASTM E284.

[0121] Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention may also have a melting temperature, preferably below 360°C, preferably below 190°C, and even more preferably below 90°C.

[0122] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins do not exhibit a melting temperature.

[0123] The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of that substance can coexist in equilibrium.

[0124] Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range of 0 to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

[0125] The glass transition temperature (Tv, or in English: Tg for glass) of a material represents the temperature range through which the material passes from a rubbery state to a glassy, ​​solid (rigid) state.

[0126] The thermal properties, in particular the Tf and Tg of the resins, are measurable by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example using a Perkin Elmer DSC 8000 apparatus, according to:

[0127] - Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperatures Tf and crystallization temperatures Te: The raw materials alone or solubilized / dispersed in solvents, stainless steel cups, scanning from 5 °C to 90 °C, scanning speed at 5°C.min-l;

[0128] - Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: measurement In the second heating stage, aluminum cups (40 qL) containing the raw materials are used. A temperature sweep between -100°C and 150°C (using isotherms) is performed to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C / min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles).

[0129] Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds whose presence and content define the class of the resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum...): essential oils, neutral and acidic constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).

[0130] The characteristic components of the resins are the terpene compounds they contain, preferably with a content of at least 30% by weight, on the weight of resin.

[0131] By "terpenic compounds" we mean terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene with the general formula (C5H8)n, and their many derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids...) comprising a terpene structure (Académie de Montpellier. Resins: https: / / tice.ac-montpellier.fr / ABCDORGA / Famille / Te rpenes.html).

[0132] Among terpene hydrocarbons, the following are distinguished: monoterpenes with the molecular formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes with the molecular formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n=5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8), and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they contain a number of double bonds corresponding to their molecular formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more rings, or a smaller number of double bonds; for example, for C10H16, one ring and two double bonds, or two rings and one double bond.

[0133] Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% terpene compounds, or better yet at least 70%, by weight of the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as raw material in the composition according to the invention.

[0134] Monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are mostly volatile compounds, constituting, for example, essential oils. Polyterpene compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as diterpene and triterpene derivatives) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.

[0135] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, i.e., compounds derived from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, in relation to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Resins exhibiting a solid fraction at room temperature (25°C) are preferred. Advantageously, the resins used according to the invention are not volatile.

[0136] Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are predominantly (more than 50% by weight of the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and / or triterpenes.

[0137] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds, i.e., compounds derived from terpenes with n less than 4, in relation to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Preferably, said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpenic or sesquiterpenic compounds derived from terpenes with n less than 4, in relation to the total weight of the resin representing 100%. For the compositions of the invention, it is therefore preferable to limit the use of the most volatile resins, as they are less effective in terms of cosmetic film adhesion.

[0138] Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are selected from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) asphaltite and gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular Kauri copal resins, Manila copal resins, West African copals such as those from Congo, Angola or Cameroon, East African copals such as those from Zanzibar or Madagascar, South American copals such as those from Brazil or Colombia), i) damars, j) elemis, k) frankincense, l) galbanums, m) labdanums, n) mastics, o) myrrh, p) Sandarac, q) Shellac, r) Styrax (Storax), s) Venice turpentine (Larch, Turpentine essence), t) The colophons in particular Rosin and rosinate and tall oils, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins.

[0139] Preferably the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from j), k), t) and v); it is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, form adducts, be modified by phenols, and / or dimerized and / or further hydrogenated. j) The elems

[0140] “Elemis” is the generic term for defining the group of recent natural resins Derived from plants of the Burseraceae family (Canarium indicum). Each type is described according to its country of origin. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the elemi resin used comes from the Philippines, specifically Manila elemi. To extract it, the trees are wounded, and a flow of pathological resin appears, which solidifies over time. Elemi resins are yellowish to greenish in color, opaque, ointment-like, sticky, and solidify into brownish resins speckled with crystals.

[0141] Elemis are soluble in aromatic solvents, alcohols, esters, and carbon disulfide; and less soluble in aliphatic solvents. Elemis have an acid value between 18 and 34, a saponification value between 25 and 60, and a softening point of approximately 80. Balsams exuding elemis contain up to 30% essential oils.

[0142] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are selected from among the elemi species, in particular elemi from the Canarium Luzonicum family, in its pure form or mixed with a latex, for example. One example is the elemi resin from Canarium Luzonicum marketed under the name ELEMI RESIN. k) Incense

[0143] Frankincense is found in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia, and eastern India. Frankincense resins are a recent development, extracted from the frankincense tree Boswellia carterii. Frankincense resins are also found in the Amazon. The bark is intentionally damaged to obtain a milky extract, which is collected after drying. Preferably, the resin(s) of the invention are selected from frankincense, particularly from the Amazon.

[0144] Frankincense resins are pale yellow and form irregular, rounded or globular beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by weight (approx. 33%) of boswellic acid (C32H52O4). Frankincense has an acid value of between 30% and 50% (indirect) and is moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline media.

[0145] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from among incenses, in particular incense resins from the Amazon marketed under the name Protium heptaphyllum resin, or PROTIUM RESIN, or WHITE BREU RESIN, and the incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea robusta.

[0146] Advantageously, the resin(s) are in a mixture with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol: 50-75% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 25-50% by weight Sunflower Seed Oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol: 50-70% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed as Kahlresin 6720. t) Rosins

[0147] Preferably, the natural resin(s) are chosen from among rosins. Rosins are recent resins, from renewable resources, and can be modified (e.g. esterified, hydrogenated, substituted).

[0148] Rosin gums are preferably purified, distilled, from the balsam of various pine essences (up to 80 different species).

[0149] Their composition is determined by climate, soil composition, and other botanical and meteorological factors. For example, rosin from Pinus austriaca (black pine) Austria, Central America, caribaea (slash pine), United States, Caribbean, densiflora Japan, elliottii United States, halepensis (Aleppo pine) Greece, Portugal, Spain, langifolia India, maritima (seashore pine) France, Spain, Portugal, massoniana (Chinese red pine) China, mercusii Indonesia, Burma, Philippines, nigra (black pine) Austria, oocarpa Central America, Honduras, palustris (swamp pine), United States, (longleaf pine), pseudostrobus Central America, Mexico, sylvestris (Scots pine) Germany, Poland, tonkinensis China, yunnanensis China.

[0150] The average composition is approximately 70 to 75% rosin and 20 to 25% turpentine oil.

[0151] Wood rosin [8050-09-7]

[0152] The rosin comes from stumps in the USA that have remained in the ground for at least 10 years so that the resin-rich heartwood is available.

[0153] Pine stumps contain between 10 and 30% by weight (approx. 19% rosin), between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) turpentine oil, between 1 and 10% by weight (preferably 4%) petroleum ether-insoluble resins, between 20 and 30% by weight (preferably 23%) water and between 40 and 60% by weight (preferably 50%) cellulose and lignin-type.

[0154] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins are chosen from among the rosins.

[0155] Tall oils colophony (Rosin and rosinate) [8052-10-6]

[0156] Tall oils and rosins often contain small amounts of fatty acids higher, particularly with a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 6 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, the tall rosin oils are free of oxocarboxylic acid. In particular, they are soluble in organic solvents.

[0157] The rosin resins of the invention comprise in particular rosin acids belonging to the terpenes. The numbering of the carbon atoms in the rosin acid molecules is indicated using abietic acid as an example.

[0158] Rosin acids have the molecular chemical formula C20H30O2 and therefore belong to the diterpene family (four isoprene units). A large number of tricyclic rosin acid isomers exist, differing in the position of the two double bonds.

[0159] Advantageously, said resin according to the invention is selected from: gum rosin obtained by incision in living trees, wood rosin extracted from pine stumps or wood, and tall oil rosin obtained from a by-product of paper production. Advantageously, said resin(s) comprise rosin acids; preferably predominantly selected from abietic and pimaric acids; and in particular selected from: levopimaric acid, neoabietic acid, abietic acid, dehydroabietic acid, tetrahydroabietic acid, dihydroabietic acid, dextropimaric acid, isodextropimaric acid; or palustric acid; and mixtures thereof.

[0160] Rosin derivatives can be obtained in particular from the polymerization, hydrogenation and / or esterification (for example with polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, glycerol, pentaerythritol) of rosin acids. Examples include the rosin esters marketed under the reference Forai 85, Pentalyn H and Staybelite Ester 10 by Hercules; Sylvatac 95 and Zonester 85 by Arizona Chemical; and Unirez 3013 by Union Camp.

[0161] According to one embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins are chosen from among the rosinates (salts of alkaline agents of rosin acids, in particular salts of alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, or metals such as zinc, or magnesium).

[0162] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosin esters, in particular rosin esters as defined above, and (C1-C6) alkanols, polyhydroxy(Cl-C6)alkane polyols such as glycerol, pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially chosen from glyceryl rosinate marketed under the name Resiester Gum A 35, glyceryl rosinate in mixture with a hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil marketed under the name EFP Biotek) Pentaerythrityl Rosinate marketed under the name Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80.

[0163] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkane or poly(carboxy)(C2-C6) alkene adducts, in particular maleic acids with rosin acids.

[0164] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from rosins modified by phenols. In particular, those modified by (C1-C4) alkylene phenols or diphenols, possibly substituted by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl or t-butyl, more particularly rosins modified by 4-tert-butylphenol and 4,4'-isopropylidenediphenol (bisphenol A).

[0165] According to another embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from dimerized rosins; in particular those in which abietic acid is polymerized. Preferably, the rosins contain more than 50% dimeric acids and are thus called dimerized rosins. According to one embodiment, the rosins are polymerized and contain from 30% to 90% by weight of dimeric acid (in particular at least 40%, 60%, or 80% dimeric acids).

[0166] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from hydrogenated rosins. The double bonds, particularly those of acids such as abietic acid, are subject to oxidation, which can be eliminated by hydrogenation. It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention may be esterified, salified, adducted, modified with phenols, and / or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

[0167] According to a preferred embodiment, the resin comprises at least one rosin acid ester selected from the group consisting of glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate, silicone rosinate, diethylene glycol rosinate, hydrogenated dilinoleyl dimer rosinate, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate / hexastearate / hexarosinate, glyceryl dibehenate / hydrogenated rosinate, glyceryl diisostearate / hydrogenated rosinate, trihydrogenated glyceryl rosinate, glycol rosinate, hydrogenated methyl rosinate, methyl rosinate, hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate, hydrogenated triethylene glycol rosinate; and mixtures thereof.

[0168] According to a particular embodiment, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate), hydrogenated methyl rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) marketed under the name Symrise BIO4326.

[0169] Furthermore, the resin(s) of the invention may be mixed with fatty substances, in particular waxes or butters. Examples include mixtures of glyceryl rosinate with one or more fatty substances, particularly waxes or butters, such as mixtures with shea butter or olive oil, such as (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables Glyceryl Rosinate, Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables marketed by Shea Butter & Glyceryl Rosinate & Oils. v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes

[0170] Natural plant waxes as such are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted / excreted by plants and naturally contain a very low resin content, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes relative to the total weight of the wax. For example, Camauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of a Copernica cerifera palm to prevent the leaves from dehydrating. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia antisyphilitica, native to northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax consists mainly of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20 to 29%), free acids (7 to 9%), and resins (12-14%, mainly triterpenic esters).

[0171] However, the definition of "natural resins" within the meaning of the present invention also includes resins derived from vegetable waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, isolated, or extracted from these waxes, provided that the resinous or terpene ingredient in question contains the minimum terpene content (30% by weight of the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. A particular example is Candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), with the INCI name Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, marketed under the name Candelilla Resin Extract by Japan Natural Products.Document WO2013 / 147113 Al also refers to Camauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from Camauba wax, and exhibiting physical properties similar to those of classically described natural resins, such as a softening temperature and not a melting temperature, which differentiates resin from wax.

[0172] The resins have a softening point and a glass transition temperature, but no melting temperature.

[0173] The opposite is true in the case of waxes which have a melting point.

[0174] Preferably the resin(s) are chosen from resin(s) j), k), and t) as defined above, and resin(s) v) extracted from waxes, in particular from candelilla, or camauba; and mixtures thereof.

[0175] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from the following references, indicated by their INCI name, used alone or in mixture:

[0176] - resins extracted from vegetable waxes (type v resins), preferably extracts of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax (INCI name: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract), such as Candelilla Resin El marketed by Japan Natural Products, Botanical Resin marketed by Cera Rica Noda, Towax-1F12 marketed by Toa Kasei, or candelilla resin marketed by Multiceras;

[0177] - frankincense resins (type k resins), preferably Protium Heptaphyllum Resin (INCI name), or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, which can be marketed for example by Citroleo or Ephyla;

[0178] - Frankincense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea Robusta Resin (INCI name). The or the resins may be found mixed with one or more fatty substances, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. Examples include Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Tocopherol: 50-75% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 25-50% by weight Sunflower Seed Oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea Robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol: 50-70% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed as Kahlresin 6720 (type k resin); and

[0179] - rosins (t-type resins), preferably rosin acid esters (Rosin) such as Glyceryl Rosinate (INCI name) marketed as Resiester Gum A 35, Glyceryl Rosinate mixed with hydrogenated vegetable oil and / or castor seed oil (Glyceryl Rosinate, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil marketed as EFP Biotek), Pentaerythrityl Rosinate marketed as Resiester N 35 S and Resiester 80 or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate (Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate) or hydrogenated methyl rosinate (Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate) marketed as Symrise BIO4326.

[0180] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from resins extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, frankincense resins such as Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, frankincense resins from the Sal tree such as Shorea Robusta resin, and Glyceryl Rosinate. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are selected from resins extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, frankincense resins such as Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin, and frankincense resins from the Sal tree such as Shorea Robusta resin.

[0181] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin or resins are chosen from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract.

[0182] Advantageously, the resin(s) is / are present in the composition of the invention in a content, expressed as active matter, ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ALKYLCELLULOSE

[0183] The composition according to the invention further comprises at least one alkylcellulose whose alkyl portion is in C2-C3, and preferably ethylcellulose.

[0184] Ethylcellulose is an alkyl ether of cellulose comprising a chain made up of [3-anhydroglucose] units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups being able to react according to the following reaction: RONa + R'Cl to ROR' + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical and R' represents an ethyl or propyl radical, preferably ethyl.

[0185] Total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead to a degree of substitution of 3 for each anhydroglucose unit, in other words to an alkoxy group content of 54.88%.

[0186] The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising an ethoxy group content ranging from 44 to 50%.

[0187] Alkylcellulose, in particular ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention, is more particularly in powder form.

[0188] It is, for example, marketed under the trade names "Ethocel Standard" by Dow Chemicals, including "Ethocel Standard 7 FP Premium" and "Ethocel Standard 100 FP Premium". Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon EC type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

[0189] Advantageously, the alkylcellulose content, preferably ethylcellulose, expressed as active matter, varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 15% by weight, more advantageously from 2 to 15% by weight, preferably from 3 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. MONOALCOHOL C2-C6

[0190] As previously stated, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C6 monoalcohol, more particularly a C2-C4 monoalcohol, preferably saturated. The Monoalcohols can be represented, for example, by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. Examples of monoalcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, or butanol, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the monoalcohol comprises at least ethanol, and even more preferably, the monoalcohol is ethanol.

[0191] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the monoalcohol content represents from 2 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 3 to 35% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. VOLATILE OILS

[0192] The composition further comprises at least one volatile, hydrocarbon or silicone oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0193] The term oil means any lipophilic compound that is in liquid form at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0194] The volatile oil or oils are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, alone or in mixture.

[0195] The volatile oil is distinct from the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent.

[0196] For the purposes of this invention, "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure of at least 0.13 Pa, more particularly of at least 2.66 Pa, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 13,000 Pa, and preferably ranging from 0.5 Pa to 8,000 Pa (OECD standard 104).

[0197] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil selected from among hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

[0198] “Siliconized oil” means an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane. VOLATILE OILS NON-POLAR HYDROCARBONS

[0199] The nonpolar hydrocarbon volatile oils usable within the framework of the invention are more particularly chosen from oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, linear or branched, preferably saturated, and their mixtures.

[0200] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can thus be chosen from among the volatile linear alkanes comprising 8 to 14 carbon atoms.

[0201] Examples of linear alkanes, particularly C8-C14, include n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. Notable examples include n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14), sold by Sasol under the brand names Parafol 12 97® and Parafol 14 97®, respectively, as well as mixtures thereof. In another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane may be used, and in particular the dodecane / tetradecane mixture marketed by Biosynthis under the brand name Vegelight 1214®. According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-C12 with INCI name C9-12 Alkane can also be used, such as the product marketed by the company Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight SILK®.According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (Cl3) can be used, such as those obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis and such as that sold under the trade name Cetiol Ultimate® by BASF.

[0202] Also of note are the alkanes described in Cognis patent applications WO 2007 / 068371 and WO2008 / 155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes differing by at least one carbon atom). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

[0203] The volatile hydrocarbon oils usable in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen from among the C8-C16 branched alkanes. In particular, C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar® or Permetyl®. VOLATILE SILICONE OILS

[0204] By way of example of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention, one may mention volatile silicone oils, such as linear or cyclic volatile silicone oils, and containing in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples of volatile silicone oils usable in the invention include, in particular, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; and mixtures thereof.

[0205] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils, more particularly selected from C8-C16 branched alkanes, from C8-C14 linear alkanes, as well as their mixtures, and in particular isododecane, the mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes and the mixture of n-undecane (Cl 1) and n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof.

[0206] Preferably, the content of volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon(s), represents 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0207] Preferably, if the composition includes at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then its content does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is devoid of it.

[0208] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the quantity of volatile oil(s) to the quantity of monoalcohol(s) is less than 4, more particularly less than 3.5 and even more preferably less than 1.5. VOLATILE POLAR HYDROCARBONATE SOLVENTS

[0209] As stated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent, preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester.

[0210] By "polar hydrocarbon solvent compatible with the aforementioned polyester" is meant a liquid compound at room temperature which makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and clear mixture from 10% by weight of the aforementioned polyester, alone or in the form of a solution with an oil if it is marketed in this form, and 90% by weight of said liquid compound (solvent), at room temperature, after 10 minutes of rest following the preparation.

[0211] By "polar hydrocarbon solvent" it is understood that said solvent comprises, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom. Thus said hydrocarbon solvent comprises at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and / or carboxylic acid function.

[0212] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent, alone or in a mixture, is selected from saturated, linear, branched, or cyclic compounds of the following formula: CnH2nO3, where n is an integer ranging from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 9, said compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (-OH) and at least one ether group (-O-) and / or ester group (-OC(=O)-). It should be noted that the formula includes the bounds.

[0213] According to a first embodiment, the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from among the hydroxycarboxylic esters in which the index n is an integer ranging from 5 to 9, more particularly from 6 to 9, preferably from 7 to 9, such as for example saturated lactates, linear or branched, such as ethyl lactate (C5), isopropyl lactate (C6), propyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7), isobutyl lactate (C7), amyl lactate (C8), isoamyl lactate (C8) and hexyl lactate (C9), or butyl glycolate, methyl 3-hydroxyhexanoate, tert-Butyl 3-hydroxypropionate, and mixtures thereof.

[0214] Preferably, in this case, the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from among the lactates and even more preferably from isopropyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7) and hexyl lactate (C9) and mixtures thereof. It should be noted that lactates are, for example, marketed under the name PURASOLV by Corbion.

[0215] According to another embodiment, the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from those including a hydroxyl group and two ether functions, preferably including at least one cyclic ether function, preferably including a cyclic ether containing two ether functions, such as a dioxane ring or a dioxolane ring; preferably said polar volatile solvent includes a hydroxyl group and a 1,3-dioxolane ring, and mixtures thereof.

[0216] Preferably in this case, the index n is an integer ranging from 6 to 8 (inclusive). Preferably, said compound is selected from 2,2-Dimethyl-4-hydroxymethyl-1,3-dioxolane (or 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol), 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, (4S)-(+)-4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)-2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxolane, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compound is 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol (2,2-Dimethyl-4-Hydroxymethyl-1,3-Dioxolane).

[0217] It should be noted that 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol is a solvent sold under several commercial references, such as AUGEO® CRYSTAL by the company SOLVAY, or ECOETAL® by the company BIOINSPIR.

[0218] Advantageously, the volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent, preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester, is chosen from lactates such as isopropyl lactate (C6), butyl lactate (C7) and hexyl lactate (C9) and mixtures thereof, more advantageously butyl lactate; from 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol; and mixtures thereof.

[0219] Preferably, the content of polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent(s), preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester, represents 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] According to an even more advantageous embodiment, the weight ratio of the total quantity of non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s) to the total quantity of volatile polar hydrocarbon solvent(s) ranges from 70 / 30 to 5 / 95. NON-VOLATILE OILS

[0221] The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, other than the aforementioned polyester, or silicone oil, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0222] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functional groups. chosen from among the hydroxyl, ester, ether, and carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

[0223] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 20°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured according to the static method or by the isothermal thermogravimetric effusion method, according to the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104). NON-VOLATILE POLAR HYDROCARBONATE OILS

[0224] By "polar hydrocarbon oil" it is understood that said oils comprise, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen atom. Thus said hydrocarbon oil comprises at least one hydroxyl, ester, ether and / or carboxylic function.

[0225] The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise at least one polar hydrocarbon non-volatile oil, more particularly selected from: * Fatty alcohols, preferably monoalcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, in the form C10-C26, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. More particularly, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; * Ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably in C3-Ci6; * the esters chosen from: - hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils; - ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms; - liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a dimer of mono- or polyunsaturated acid, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and a polyol; * as well as their mixtures.

[0226] Preferably, the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil is selected from: - lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof; preferably octyldodecanol; - dicaprylyl ether; - dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate; - castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pothnarron oil, sesame oil, pumpkin seed oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, flaxseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter and mixtures thereof; - ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, C15-C12 alcohol benzoates, octyl-2-dodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, tri-2-detyl tetradecanoate glyceryl, capric / caprylic acid triglycerides, Ci8-36 acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl tridecyl-2 tetradecanoate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate,pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate; isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, , - polyesters with the following INCI names: Dilinoleic Acid / Butanediol Copolymer, Dilinoleic Acid / Propanediol Copolymer, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, - as well as their mixtures. NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBONATE NON-POLAR OILS

[0227] The non-polar, non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may be selected from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as, for example: - paraffin oil, - squalane, in particular of vegetable origin, - isoeicosane, - mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures with INCI names like: C15-19 Alkane, C8-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as Gemseal products 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L15 and L19 marketed by SEPPIC, - Polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers, - Polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, the non-volatile compounds in the Parléam® range marketed by Nippon Oil & Fat, - Polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as, for example, non-volatile compounds in the Silkflo range marketed by Ineos, and Dekanex by IMCD, - and their mixtures. NON-VOLATILE SILICONE OILS

[0228] The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, comprising or not at least one dimethicone fragment, or at least one non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oil, or mixtures thereof.

[0229] The term “phenylated” specifies that the oil in question contains at least one phenyl radical in its structure.

[0230] The term "dimethicone fragment" refers to a divalent siloxane group in which the silicon atom bears two methyl groups, this group not being located at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH3)2-O)-.

[0231] Preferably, silicones do not contain a C2-C3 alkylene oxide group or a glycerol group.

[0232] Examples of non-volatile phenylated oils comprising at least one dimethicone fragment include oils with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof, preferably Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone. Diphenyl Dimethicone is notably marketed by Shin Etsu under the names KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53d, and KF-50-100CS. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone is, for example, marketed by Wacker Chemie under the names Belsil PDM 1000 and Belsil PDM 20.

[0233] Among the non-volatile phenylated silicone oils devoid of dimethicone fragments, the following compounds with INCI names may be mentioned: Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures. Suitable non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils for carrying out the invention include those marketed by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, by Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A range.

[0234] Representative examples of non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes and alkyldimethicones. Note that "Dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to a polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name). Preferably, these non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils are selected from polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones comprising at least one alkyl group in the C2-C24 position; and mixtures thereof. Thus, these oils may be selected from Dimethicone, Cetyl Dimethicone, and Stearyl Dimethicone, alone or in mixtures. Suitable examples of non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils include those marketed by Wacker under the Belsil DM range, by Dow Corning with the Xiameter PMX 200 Silicone Fluid range, and by Shin Etsu with the KF-96 A range.Alkyldimethicone products can be marketed, for example, under the trade names Abil Wax 9800, Abil Wax 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or Dowsil 2502 Cosmetic Fluid, Dowsil 2503 Cosmetic Wax from Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof.

[0235] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the non-volatile oil is chosen from polar hydrocarbon oils alone or in mixtures, different from the aforementioned polyester, in particular chosen from alcohol oils, esters.

[0236] According to a further preferred embodiment, if the composition includes them, the non-volatile oil(s) is / are selected from octyldodecanol, vegetable oils, ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0237] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is selected from octyldodecanol, fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0238] Preferably, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from polar hydrocarbon oils, other than the aforementioned polyester, in particular from fatty alcohols, esters, and mixtures thereof.

[0239] According to a further preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile oil selected from fatty alcohols, vegetable oils, ester oils, possibly hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures thereof.

[0240] According to a preferred embodiment, the non-volatile oil is selected from fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride).

[0241] If the composition includes it, the content of non-volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon(s), varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0242] Preferably, if the composition includes at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, then its content does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is devoid of it. SILICA-TYPE FILLERS

[0243] The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one silica-type filler.

[0244] By "charge" is to be understood a colourless or white, solid particle of any shape, which is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

[0245] The silica usable as a filler may be precipitated or pyrogenated silica, and preferably precipitated. More specifically, the INCI name of the silica-type filler according to the invention is Silica.

[0246] Advantageously, the silica usable as a filler has not been subjected to a hydrophobic surface treatment.

[0247] It should be noted that silicas with the INCI name Silica Silylate or Silica Dimethyl Silylate are not considered as fillers within the meaning of the invention.

[0248] It can be in any form, preferably spherical. "Spherical silica" means silica particles having the shape or substantially the shape of a sphere, insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting temperature of the medium (approximately 100°C). The spherical silica particles of the present invention may have an average circularity of at least 0.8, and preferably of at least 0.82. The porous silica spherical particles of the present invention may have an average circularity less than or equal to 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.99, more preferably less than or equal to 0.98, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.97, even more preferably less than or equal to 0.96, and most preferably less than or equal to 0.95.

[0249] The "average circularity" can be determined by an image analysis method. In particular, the "average circularity" can be an arithmetic mean of circularity obtained by image analysis of a scanning electron microscope (SEM) image of not less than 2000 silica particles observed at a magnification of 1000 by secondary electron detection using a scanning electron microscope (SEM).

[0250] The "circularity" of each silica particle is a value determined by the following formula: C = 4irS / L², where C represents a circularity, S represents an area (projected area) of the particle in the image, and L represents a length of a periphery (perimeter) of the silica particle in the image. As the average circularity approaches 1, the shape of each particle becomes more spherical.

[0251] The average diameter of the silica particles, corresponding to the average diameter in volume (d

[50] ) is advantageously between 0.5 and 30 pm, preferably between 1 and 20 pm.

[0252] The sizes of silica particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000®. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0253] The silica particles used in the invention are preferably porous.

[0254] For the purposes of this invention, "porous particles" means particles having a structure with pores or interstices. The structure of the particles can be of matrix type (with open porosity towards the outside) like a sponge, and / or include a central cavity (hollow sphere).

[0255] More specifically, the porosity of the particles is quantitatively characterized by their specific surface area.

[0256] Preferably, the silica particles have a specific surface area of ​​2 to 1000 m2 / g, more particularly of 10 to 1000 m2 / g, preferably of 100 to 900 m2 / g.

[0257] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0258] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silica-type filler is chosen from porous spherical silica particles, preferably chosen from porous spherical amorphous silica particles, preferably untreated hydrophobically on the surface; mixtures thereof.

[0259] By "amorphous silica" is meant vitreous silica, namely non-crystalline silica in which the atoms do not respect any order at medium and large distances, unlike crystalline silica.

[0260] As an example of untreated, hydrophobic, porous, spherical amorphous silica, the following commercial products may be used: Silica 35 Beads SB-150®, SB-300® or SB 700®, preferably SB 300® from MYOSHI KASEI; the SUNSPHERE® range from Asahi Glass AGC SI-TECH, in particular Sunsphere H-51® or Sunsphere 12L®, Sunsphere H-201®, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 8® from Sunjin; Spherica P-150® from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere® from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl® and Satinier® ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly the Satinier Ml3® and Satinier Ml6 silicas, the MSS-500® silicas from KOBO, and more particularly the MSS-500-20N®, the Silica Shells® from KOBO as well as the BA4 silicas from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals.

[0261] Preferably, the composition comprises 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 7% by weight, of silica-type filler, relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER

[0262] The composition according to the invention may optionally include water.

[0263] A suitable water for the invention may be demineralized water, floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and / or thermal water.

[0264] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition according to the invention comprises water, its content is less than 20% by weight, more particularly less than 15% by weight, and preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. COLORING MATERIALS

[0265] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one coloring material.

[0266] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring matter can be chosen from powdered coloring materials, liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. PULVERULENT COLORING MATERIALS

[0267] Powdered colouring materials may be selected from mineral pigments, organic pigments, mother-of-pearl and mixtures thereof.

[0268] The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

[0269] According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

[0270] The term "mineral pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia under the chapter on inorganic pigments. Examples of mineral pigments useful in the present invention include zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow, or red), or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metallic powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, and ZrO2 in mixtures with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, and ZnS.

[0271] The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0272] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D

[50] greater than 100 nm and up to 100 µm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 µm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 µm.

[0273] The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer, the Malvern Master Sizer 3000®, which allows for the determination of the particle size distribution of all particles over a wide range from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data are processed based on the classical Mie scattering theory. This theory is best suited for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron and allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is notably described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0274] d

[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of the particles have by volume.

[0275] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter preferably being present in the oily phase of the composition according to the invention.

[0276] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention by at least one compound selected from metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.

[0277] According to a preferred mode, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with an N-acylated amino acid or one of its salts which can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group.

[0278] The amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid, or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, or potassium salts. Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid derivative, which may be, in particular, a glutamic acid derivative and / or one of its salts, and more specifically a stearoyl glutamate, such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate. Examples of pigments treated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red, and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade name NAI® by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

[0279] According to a preferred method, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with isopropyl titanium triisostearyl titanate. Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include titanium dioxide pigments and black, red and yellow iron oxide pigments sold under the trade names BWB0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) and BWRO-12® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by Kobo.

[0280] The pigments that can be used according to the invention can also be organic pigments.

[0281] By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition in the Ullmann Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from among the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

[0282] The organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the green pigments coded in the Color Index under references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 1725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole derivatives,phenolic compounds as described in patent FR2 679 771.

[0283] These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EPI 184426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

[0284] The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer, we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

[0285] The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminium borosilicate, and aluminium.

[0286] Among the organic dyes, we can mention cochineal carmine. We can also mention the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

[0287] Examples of lacquers include the product known as D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850 :1).

[0288] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one powdered colouring material of the mineral pigment type, in particular chosen from metallic oxides, and more particularly chosen from titanium dioxides, iron oxides, coated or uncoated, and mixtures thereof.

[0289] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

[0290] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the powdered colouring material(s) is / are present, preferably, in a content ranging from 3 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 6 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. WATER-SOLUBLE OR FAT-SOLUBLE COLOURS

[0291] A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one water-soluble or fat-soluble colouring material and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0292] For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the color effect sought and the colonic intensity provided by the coloring materials considered, and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0293] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be liposoluble.

[0294] By "liposoluble colouring material", in the sense of the invention, is meant any compound generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fat and capable of colouring.

[0295] Fat-soluble colorants suitable for the invention may be cited in particular as synthetic or natural fat-soluble colorants such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, carotenes (3-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan Brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin.

[0296] Additional colouring materials suitable for the invention may be water-soluble.

[0297] For the purposes of this invention, "water-soluble colouring material" means any compound, generally organic, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and capable of colouring.

[0298] As examples of suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants may be cited, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

[0299] The water-soluble or fat-soluble colour(s), if included in the composition, are preferably present at levels of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. COSMETIC ADDITIVES

[0300] The compositions according to the invention may include additives commonly used in skincare and / or makeup products such as active ingredients like vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3, adenosine, hyaluronic acid and its salts; UV filters; additional fillers, other than the silica-type fillers according to the invention; waxes; paste compounds; hydrophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents other than alkylcellulose (in particular ethylcellulose); mineral lipophilic thickeners, which will be described later, or organic ones such as dextrin and fatty acid esters, especially C12 to C24, preferably C14 to C18, or mixtures thereof, and more preferably dextrin palmitate, dextrin myristate; perfumes; preservatives; and mixtures thereof.

[0301] Although this does not correspond to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition may optionally include one or more silicone polymers such as, for example, silicone resins, silicone acrylate copolymers, silicone polyamides, and combinations thereof.

[0302] Among silicone resins, examples may be given for example of the resins with the following INCI names: Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, Polymethyl-silsesquioxane, the MQT-propyl resins, in particular described and prepared in application WO2005 / 075542. C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) may also be given.

[0303] Among silicone-acrylate copolymers, dendrimers or not, examples include the copolymers with INCI names Acrylates / Polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate Copolymer; Acrylates / Dimethicone Copolymer.

[0304] With regard to acrylamide-silicone copolymers, one can notably cite the copolymer with INCI name Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer.

[0305] If the composition includes it, the content of silicone polymer(s) does not exceed 5% by weight, more particularly does not exceed 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is devoid of it.

[0306] It is part of the routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of additives present in compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties of the latter are not affected.

[0307] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. ADDITIONAL CHARGES

[0308] Compositions according to the invention may thus include at least one additional filler, different from the silica-type fillers according to the invention described previously.

[0309] The additional charges may be inorganic or organic.

[0310] Preferably, they can be chosen from natural or naturally sourced fillers.

[0311] By “natural charge” or “natural compound” is meant a compound which is obtained directly from the earth or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as grinding, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

[0312] The term “naturally sourced filler” or “naturally sourced compound” means a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of that compound, and / or a compound consisting mainly of natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations. As a non-limiting example of ancillary chemical or industrial treatments that result in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, one may mention those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert (Reference Guide for Organic and Ecological Cosmetic Products, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as “Cosmetics and Tissue Magazine”, 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

[0313] The additional fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fibrous or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

[0314] The additional fillers may or may not be surface-coated, and, in particular, they may be surface-treated with amino acids or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler within the composition. Mineral fillers

[0315] Examples of mineral fillers include, alone or in mixtures, talcs, natural or synthetic micas such as synthetic fluorphlogopites, diatomaceous earth, unmodified clays, such as smectites, and preferably unmodified hectorite, kaolin, kaolin and halloysite, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, barium sulfate possibly combined with lauroyl lysine, silica combined with lauroyl lysine, glass microcapsules, borosilicates or ceramics, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Organic charges

[0316] Examples of organic fillers include, alone or in mixtures, natural micronized waxes, such as micronized carnauba wax; metallic soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; lauroyl lysine, Hordeum Vulgare Seed Flour, PHAs (poly(hydroxyalkanoate)), starch, quinoa extract (INCI name: Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract), cellulose powders such as that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads® range.

[0317] Preferably, if the composition contains them, the additional filler(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. WAXES

[0318] The composition according to the invention may include at least one hydrocarbon wax, polar or non-polar.

[0319] For the purposes of this invention, "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

[0320] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by TA Instruments with the "TA Universal Analysis" software.

[0321] The measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to a first temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature increase from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the melting point of the solid fat is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. The enthalpy of fusion of the wax (AHf) can also be measured, corresponding to the integral of the entire melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to change the compound from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

[0322] Waxes can be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.

[0323] In particular, waxes have a preferred melting point greater than or equal to 35°C and preferably greater than or equal to 40°C. Non-polar waxes

[0324] By "nonpolar hydrocarbon wax", in the context of the present invention, means a wax consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms, such as for example N, O, Si, P....

[0325] Examples of non-polar waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polymethylene waxes, polyethylene waxes, and micro-waxes, particularly polyethylene waxes. Polar waxes

[0326] Polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon or silicone-based.

[0327] For the purposes of this invention, "polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax whose chemical structure is essentially formed, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one heteroatom, more particularly selected from oxygen, possibly nitrogen, or mixtures thereof. It may thus contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

[0328] By "siliconized wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.

[0329] According to a first preferred embodiment, polar wax is a hydrocarbon wax.

[0330] As a hydrocarbon polar wax, a wax chosen from ester waxes and alcohol waxes is preferred.

[0331] According to the invention, "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes may also be hydroxylated.

[0332] By "alcohol wax", according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

[0333] In particular, it can be used as an ester wax, alone or in mixtures: (i) Waxes of the formula RiCOOR2, in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched, or cyclic aliphatic chains with a number of atoms ranging from 6 to 50, particularly from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as, for example, oxygen or nitrogen, and whose melting point ranges, more specifically, from 30 to 120°C. In particular, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in mixtures, or a C20-C40 alkyl stearate may be used as an ester wax. Such waxes are sold, in particular, under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P®", "Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®", "Kester Wax K 80 P®", or "Kester Wax K82H" by the company Koster Keunen. Stearyl heptanoate and stearyl caprylate and their mixtures can also be used. ii) di-(trimethyl-1,1,1-propane tetrastearate), (iii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), wherein R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group, and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturates. Preferably, the C4-C30 aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated. (iv) We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having, in particular, linear or branched fatty chains in the C8-C32 range, for example, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold in the Phytowax Castor range, for example Phytowax Castor 22L73®, or waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, such as those in the Phytowax Olive range, for example Phytowax Olive 18L57, marketed by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in particular in application FR2792190. (v) Waxes corresponding to partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol. By total esters, it is understood that all the hydroxyl groups of glycerol are esterified. Examples include trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), tristearine (or glyceryl tristearate), and tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or in mixtures. Suitable compounds include triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as Thixcin R and Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties. vi) We can also mention waxes of animal or vegetable origin, such as beeswax, synthetic beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, sunflower wax, particularly refined. vii) We can also mention hydrocarbon waxes, polyoxyalkylated or polyglycerolated, natural or synthetic, of animal or vegetable origin; the number of oxyalkylated units (C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20. Examples include polyoxyethylenated beeswax, such as PEG-6 beeswax and PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylenated camauba wax, such as PEG-12 camauba; and lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, polyoxyethenated or polyoxypropylenated, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswaxes, including polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, the Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters blend, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and their blends (Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters).

[0334] According to another embodiment, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. Examples of alcohol waxes include mixtures of linear, saturated, C3o-C5o alcohols such as, for example, Performacol 550 Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol, or mixtures thereof.

[0335] Preferably, if the composition includes it, the wax is chosen from among hydrocarbon waxes. More particularly, it is chosen from among non-polar waxes; polar hydrocarbon waxes such as waxes of animal or vegetable origin, waxes of animal or vegetable origin obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils; alcohol waxes; as well as mixtures thereof; and preferably from among non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, alone or in mixtures.

[0336] The wax content, if included in the composition, varies advantageously from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. PASTY COMPOUNDS

[0337] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one paste-like compound at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

[0338] For the purposes of this invention, "pasty" means a lipophilic compound with reversible solid / liquid phase change, exhibiting in particular in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at room temperature a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

[0339] In other words, the initial melting temperature of the paste compound may be lower than room temperature. The liquid fraction of the paste compound measured at room temperature may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the paste compound. This liquid fraction at room temperature preferably represents between 15 and 85%, and more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

[0340] The melting point of the pasty fat is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is as follows: A 5 mg sample of pasty fat placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial temperature increase from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 10°C / minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. The melting point of the pasty fat is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature. It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fat at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat is the enthalpy consumed by the fat to change from a solid to a liquid state. A fat is said to be in a solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline form. A fat is said to be in a liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat is the amount of energy required to change the fat from a solid to a liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion of a fat is equal to the energy emitted under the curve of the resulting thermogram.

[0341] The paste compound can in particular be chosen from synthetic paste compounds and fats of vegetable origin.

[0342] The paste compound(s) may in particular be selected from: - lanolin and its derivatives, such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolins; - Vaseline (also called petrolatum), - C2-C4 pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, for example, compounds with the following INCI names: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, and mixtures thereof. One example is the mixture marketed under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, - Liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification of one or more C2-C10 diols, preferably C2-C50. Among liposoluble polyethers, particular consideration is given to copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides, preferably such that the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, the product with the INCI name PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, marketed for example under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel, is a notable example; - Esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched dicarboxylic acid, preferably saturated, in C6-C10 and an ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, possibly hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, in C6-C2o, in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C2o fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2), - triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, possibly mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably Ci2-Ci8, possibly hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as, for example, saturated fatty acid glycerides C12-C18 marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides), - diol dimer esters, or polyol esters, and diacid dimer esters such as: * dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid dimer esters whose hydroxylated groups are esterified by a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate); * esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl / Isostearyl / Cetyl / Stearyl / Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate); - butters of vegetable origin such as mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (Rain Forest RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter; as well as orange wax such, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, - fully or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed vegetable oil, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company Aarhuskarlshamn (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), partially hydrogenated isomerized trans jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade name Iso- Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, - hydrogenated castor oil esters, such as hydrogenated castor oil dimer dilinoleate for example Risocast-DA-L sold by Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate for example Salacos HCIS (VL) sold by Nisshin Oil, - and their mixtures.

[0343] If the composition includes at least one paste compound, its content varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. LIPOPHILE THICKENERS

[0344] The composition according to the invention may also include at least one lipophilic thickener, chosen more particularly from silicas, treated hydrophobic or not; lipophilic clays; alone or in mixture. Silicas

[0345] The composition according to the invention may thus include, as a mineral thickener, a fumed silica, preferably hydrophobic, or silica aerogel particles, preferably hydrophobic. Pyrogenated silica

[0346] Suitable for the invention is hydrophobically treated fumed silica. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of silica by a chemical reaction that reduces the number of silanol groups present on the silica surface. In particular, silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups, resulting in hydrophobic silica.

[0347] Hydrophobic groups can be: - Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are notably obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R8120 by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-5306 by the company Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica Dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are marketed, for example, under the references Aerosil R972a and Aerosil R974a by the company Degussa, and CAB-O-SIL TS-610a and CAB-O-SIL TS-720a by the company Cabot. Silica aerogels

[0348] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

[0349] They are generally synthesized by the sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying methods are described in detail in Brinker CL, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990.

[0350] Hydrophobic silica aerogel particles usually have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) of 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably 600 to 1200 m2 / g and better 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume mean diameter (D[0,5]) of 1 to 1500 pm, better 1 to 1000 pm, preferably 1 to 1000 pm, in particular 1 to 30 pm, preferably still 5 to 25 pm, better 5 to 20 pm and better still 5 to 15 pm.

[0351] According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0,5]) ranging from 1 to 30 pm, preferably from 5 to 25 pm, better from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0352] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (BRUNAUER-EMMET-TELLER) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", Vol. 60, Page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of ​​the particles considered.

[0353] The particle sizes of silica aerogel can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

[0354] According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (d[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 pm and even better from 5 to 15 pm.

[0355] Aerogels are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name Silica Silylate).

[0356] By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylation agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

[0357] Regarding the preparation of surface-modified hydrophobic silica aerogel particles by silylation, reference can be made to US document 7,470,725.

[0358] Preferably, hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups will be used.

[0359] As examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention, we can cite, for instance, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0360] We can also mention the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

[0361] We can also mention the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Lipophilic clays

[0362] The term “lipophilic clay” means any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.

[0363] Clay refers to a material based on hydrated silicates and / or aluminosilicates with a lamellar structure.

[0364] Clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C22 ammonium chloride, in particular steralkonium chloride or di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They are not considered fillers.

[0365] They can be chosen from among bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

[0366] Preferably, they are chosen from among the hectorites and the bentonites.

[0367] For example, a lipophilic clay chosen from among the bentonites can be used hydrophobic modified and hydrophobic modified hectorites, notably by a quaternary ammonium chloride in C22-ClO, such as: - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ, Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by the company BYK Additives Inc; the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4, Viscogel® SD by the company Bentec SPA; - a bentonite modified by stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and at least one oil such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from Stearinerie Dubois Fils, Myglyol Gel T® from Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, Tixogel® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 by BYK Additives Inc; - a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Disteardimonium Hectorite) such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone® 38VCG Rheological Additive by the company Elementis Specialities; - a hectorite modified by distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate or triethyl citrate and at least one oil such as the commercial products sold under the name Bentone® GEL DOA V, Bentone® GEL EUG V, Bentone® GEL IHD V, Bentone® GEL ISD V, Bentone® GEL MIO V® Bentone® GEL PTM V® Bentone® SS-71 V, Bentone® VS-5 PC V, Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities; the commercial products sold under the name Creagel Bentone CPS / Hectone CPS, Creagel Bentone ID / Hectone ID by the company Créations Couleurs; the commercial products sold under the name NS GEL DM1®, NS GEL PTIS®, NS MGEL 1152® by the company Next Step Laboratories Stop.

[0368] Preferably, the lipophilic gelling agent may be present in the composition at concentrations ranging, preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

[0369] The invention also relates to a process for processing human keratinous materials, in particular for makeup and / or keratinous material care, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.

[0370] Thus, the composition used according to the invention can be a care and / or makeup composition for keratinous materials such as skin, lips, eye contour, eyelids, eyelashes or eyebrows.

[0371] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a skin makeup product such as foundations, blushes and eyeshadows.

[0372] In particular, the composition according to the invention is a lip makeup product such as a lipstick, a gloss.

[0373] In particular, the composition according to the invention is an eye contour makeup product such as an eyeliner, eyelashes or eyebrows such as a mascara.

[0374] Such compositions are notably prepared according to the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0375] The composition according to the invention may also be part of a packaging assembly, or kit, comprising: - a packaging device comprising said cosmetic composition according to the invention as previously described, - an applicator of said composition.

[0376] The container may delimit one or more compartment(s). The container may, for example, be in the form of a tube or a hot water bottle.

[0377] Such an applicator may be attached to a cap mounted reversibly on said container between a sealing position of said container and an application position, in particular for makeup.

[0378] It is further indicated that the compositions according to the invention include more particularly a cosmetically (or physiologically) acceptable medium, that is to say, one which has a pleasant colour, odor and feel and does not generate unacceptable discomforts, that is to say, tingling, pulling, redness, which may deter the user from applying such compositions.

[0379] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0380] The expressions "between... and..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.

[0381] In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients in the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

[0382] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

[0383] Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI name. EXAMPLES Viscosity measurement protocol

[0384] Viscosity measurement is carried out at 25°C with a sample of the composition, at least 24 hours after its manufacture (storage at room temperature, closed container), using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a wheel no. 2, 3 or 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the wheel within the formula, at a shear of 200 revolutions / min (rpm). Tights measurement protocol

[0385] The composition is deposited onto several 100 µm deep stainless steel cups and leveled as quickly as possible. The cups are left to dry at room temperature for one hour.

[0386] The device used is a TAXT2i texture tester. The clamp mounted on the device grips a 6 mm diameter AU4G cylinder to the end of which is glued a smooth beige synthetic leather tip of the same diameter and 2 mm thick. Between each measurement, the tip is cleaned with ethanol. Multiple measurements are never taken at the same location in the storage area.

[0387] The parameters for compression tests with sustained load are indicated below:

[0388] [Tables] Approach velocity (or pre-velocity) 1 mm / s Velocity (from contact detection) 0.1 mm / s Force (and corresponding pressure) 0.283 N (or 0.01 MPa) Holding time 3 s Retraction velocity (or post-velocity) 0.1 mm / s

[0389] The adhesive is characterized by the work of debonding measured during unloading (tensile phase), corresponding to the integral of the curve under the time axis. This work is expressed positively in joules per square meter. Protocol for measuring fit and transfer 1. Test preparation:#

[0390] Support#: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).

[0391] Apply the composition using a plunge applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator) over the entire surface 3 times in succession to ensure sufficient and even coverage. Repeat the process on two other strips. Allow the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 32°C for 45 minutes. Optionally, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before the application. 2. Requests#:

[0392] Prepare a tissue for each request: Fold each tissue twice along the long edge and then twice in the other direction to form a square. Dry resistance#:

[0393] Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or lips. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of ​​the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. Optionally take a photo.

[0394] Note that the assessment of resistance to transfer is done with this solicitation.

[0395] In the event that several passes are made, they shall then be made with The same force and always in the same direction (i.e., after each pass, the tissue is lifted and repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous pass). Optionally, take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of procedure can be used to assess the overall resistance of the deposit.

[0396] Water resistance:

[0397] Insert the second makeup support without folding it into a centrifuge tube. Add 10 grams of demineralized water. Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g. Optionally, take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation. Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance. Observe the condition of the rubbed surface as well as the surface area of ​​the handkerchief used, in particular the remaining color and the transferred color. Optionally take a photo.

[0398] The protocol for multiple passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance. Oil resistance#:

[0399] Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third made-up support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil - Aarhuskarlshamn). Notation#:

[0400] For each request, note the result according to the table below:

[0401] [Tables2] Deposit rating State of deposit Fabric rating Fabric surface in contact with the deposit 5 Total or partial removal of the deposit on the rubbed area; the substrate surface appears in places 5 Very intense staining - very significant to total color transfer 4 Partial removal resulting in a significantly and visibly less intense staining of the deposit 4 Intense staining - significant color transfer 3 Perceptible decrease in the intensity of the deposit color, but the substrate is not visible 3 Medium staining - medium color transfer 2 No substantial change in the color of the deposit 2 Slight staining - little color transfer 1 No change in the color of the deposit 1 No staining or barely visible staining - little to no color transfer 1. Compositions

[0402] The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and the contents in mass percentages are gathered in the table below.

[0403] In these examples, the staying properties of a lipstick according to the invention, containing a silica-type filler (composition 1) are compared with a lipstick not containing a filler (composition A).

[0404] [Tables3] Phase Ingredients (INCI name or chemical name) 1 Invention 2 Inventio n 3 Inventio n A Comparative A Tribehenin (Syncrowax HRC-PA-(MH) from Croda) 2 2 2 2 B Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (60%) (and ) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (40%) (Solamaze natural from N ouryon) 15 15 15 15 C Isododecane qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 D Isopropylidene Glycerol (Aug eocrystal of Solvay) 8 8 8 8 D Denatured alcohol 20 20 20 20 E Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N 7 Pharm of Ashland) 5 5 5 5 F Euphoria Cerifera (Candellilla Extract) in Elan Products Natural Products of Japan cts) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 F Protium Heptaphyllum Resin ( Citrobreu de Citroleo) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 G Silica (SUNSPHERE H 51 of AGC-SI tech) 5 - - - G Silica (SILICA SHELLS of K obo) FB-82 of AGC-SI tech) - - 5 - H Mica (Mearlmica SV, Sun Ch emicals) 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 H Red 7 (Unipure Red LC 3079, Sensient) 7.5 7.5 7.5 7.5 I Oleic acid (Wilfarin O-A-70070) 3.0 3.0 3.0 Total

[0405] 2. Preparation of compositions: 1. In a beaker, mix polyester (B) and Tribehenin at 60°C under stirring. Once the mixture is homogenized, allow it to return to room temperature and add the isododecane under agitation (RAYNERI deflocculator at 500 rpm) until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. 2. Add the Isopropylidene Glycerol while stirring at 500 rpm, then the denatured alcohol (RAYNERI deflocculator at 500 rpm) to obtain a homogeneous mixture, then add the ethanol under the same conditions. 3. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the Ethylcellulose (E) in a fine spray into the vortex created by the deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation (approximately 10 minutes). 4. Once the mixture is homogenized, introduce the previously ground resins (F) in a fine spray, under a deflocculator at 500 rpm and then leave under agitation to obtain a homogeneous mixture (approximately 10 minutes). 5. If necessary, introduce silica (G) while maintaining agitation until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. 6. Preparation of phase H: place the ingredients of phase H in the bowl of an IKA MV20 grinder and mix at maximum speed 4 times for 15 seconds, making sure after each 15 seconds to detach any powder that may have adhered to the sides) 7. Add phase H to the mixture from step 5. 8. Finally, introduce the oleic acid, stirring at 500 rpm until the mixture is homogenized. 9. Place the resulting mixture in a hot water bottle fitted with a plunger applicator with a flocked tip (gloss applicator). 3. Evaluation of compositions

[0406] Each composition is stable and applies easily to the lips in a homogeneous and comfortable deposit.

[0407] The table below summarizes the results of the dry, water and oil resistance assessments as described above:

[0408] [Tables4] Note deposit Note fabric Type of application Dry Water Oil Dry Water Oil Composition 1 Invention 2 1 2 2 1 3 Composition 2 Invention 1 2 2 2 1 3 Composition 3 Invention 1 1 2 2 1 3 Composition A Comparative 3 5 5 3 3 5

[0409] It is observed that the presence of a silica-type filler improves the performance of the hold and reduces the transfer of color, compared to the composition which lacks it.

Claims

Demands

1. A cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition of human keratinous materials, in particular skin and / or lips, preferably lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: - at least one natural resin, - at least one alkylcellulose having a C2-C3 alkyl group, preferably ethylcellulose, - at least one polyester which is the reaction product of the following components (i), (ii) and (iii): (i) at least one polyglycerol-3, (ii) at least one dimeric acid, and (iii) at least one mono-fatty acid having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the reacted components (i), (ii) and (iii) being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, from 0.5 to 1 mole of dimeric acid and from 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of mono-fatty acid, - at least one C2-C6 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C4, preferably ethanol, - at least one volatile oil, - at least one polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent,preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester, - possibly at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, different from the aforementioned polyester, or silicone-based, as well as mixtures thereof, - at least one silica-type filler.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the natural resin comprises at least 30% by weight on the total weight of resin of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpenic compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpenic compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpenic compounds, or even better at least 70% by weight on the total weight of resin.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin is selected from the following resins, alone or in mixture: - resins extracted from vegetable waxes, preferably extracts of Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax; - frankincense resins, preferably Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin; - frankincense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea Robusta Resin; and - rosins, preferably rosin acid esters such as glyceryl rosinate, pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated rosinates such as hydrogenated pentaerythrityl rosinate or hydrogenated methyl rosinate; and preferably among resins extracted from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax, frankincense resins such as Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin and frankincense resins from the Sal tree such as Shorea Robusta resin.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin, expressed as active matter, represents from 0.5 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkylcellulose content represents from 0.5 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is prepared by a one-step process which involves introducing all the reactants into a reaction vessel and then inducing a fully statistical addition of the dimeric acid and isostearic acid to polyglycerol-3.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is triglycerol alone or a mixture of polyglycerols comprising at least triglycerol; and preferably triglycerol is the major component in said mixture.

9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in the form of a mixture and composed of at least 40% by weight, or at least 45% by weight, or at least 50% by weight, of a combination of diglycerol and triglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and composed of at least 20% by weight, or at least 25% by weight of diglycerol; at least 15% by weight, or at least 18% by weight of triglycerol; at least 10% by weight, or at least 12% by weight of tetraglycerol relative to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that polyglycerol-3 is in mixture form and comprises at least 25% by weight of diglycerol, at least 45% by weight of triglycerol and at least 10% by weight of tetraglycerol to the total weight of polyglycerol-3 in mixture form.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a substantially or totally non-sequential reaction product of the following components: (i) at least one polyglycerol-3 in mixture form comprising at least 25 wt% diglycerol, at least 45 wt% triglycerol and at least 10 wt% tetraglycerol, in each case relative to the total weight of the polyglycerol-3 in mixture form; (ii) at least one hydrogenated dimeric acid containing at least 60 wt% hydrogenated C36 diacid and 5 to 25 wt% hydrogenated C54 triacid, in each case relative to the total weight of the hydrogenated acid; and (iii) isostearic acid.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is a reaction product of polyglycerol-3, C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

14. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester is in an oily solution comprising: a) a polyester obtained by reaction of: (i) Polyglycerol-3, and (ii) a C36 hydrogenated acid dimer; and (iii) of isostearic acid; the components (i), (ii) and (iii) reacted being in a molar ratio of 1 mole of polyglycerol-3, 0.5 to 1 mole of dimer acid and 0.1 to less than 2.0 moles of fatty acids; and (b) at least one non-volatile oil, preferably at least one fatty acid triglyceride containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, more particularly 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly a caprylic / capric acid triglyceride; said mixture having more particularly the INCI name: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dilinoleate (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

15. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the oily solution contains polyester at a concentration of 10 to 99% by weight, more preferably 30 to 90% by weight, more particularly 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.

16. Composition according to any one of claims 14 or 15, characterized in that the oily solution comprises 40% by weight of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride and 60% by weight of Polyglycerol-3 polyester, C36 hydrogenated dimeric acid and isostearic acid in a molar ratio of 1 / 0.5 / 1.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyester content, expressed as active material, represents from 2.5 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the monoalcohol content represents from 5 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 10 to 35% by weight, preferably from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) are selected from nonpolar volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, C8-Ci4 linear alkanes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably from isododecane, undecane, tridecane, alone or in mixtures.

20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the volatile oil(s) content, preferably hydrocarbons, represent 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 15 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent, preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester, is selected, alone or in mixture, from the following saturated, linear, branched or cyclic compounds of the following formula: CnH2nO3, in which n is an integer ranging from 5 to 9, preferably from 6 to 9, said compound comprising at least one hydroxyl function (-OH) and at least one function selected from ether (-O-) and / or ester (-OC(=O)-).

22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent compatible with the aforementioned polyester is selected from saturated, linear or branched lactates comprising 6 to 9 carbon atoms, 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol, and mixtures thereof, and preferably butyl lactate, 1,2-isopropylidene glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of polar hydrocarbon volatile solvent(s), preferably compatible with the aforementioned polyester, represents from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silica has an average particle size (d[50] by volume) of between 0.5 and 30 pm, preferably between 1 and 20 pm.

25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silica is precipitated, preferably not having undergone a hydrophobic surface treatment.

26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silica is spherical, more particularly with an average circularity index of at least 0.8, and preferably of at least 0.82, and more particularly less than or equal to 1

27. ​​d 1. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises a silica content of between 0.2 and 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content represents less than 20% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

29. Composition any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, other than the aforementioned polyester, selected from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, and in particular selected from fatty alcohols, esters, and mixtures thereof.

30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is selected from octyldodecanol, vegetable oils, ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 8 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof; and preferably from octyldodecanol, fatty acid triglycerides containing 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, in particular, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (INCI name), vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof.

31. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of non-volatile oil(s), preferably hydrocarbon(s), varies from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is devoid of it.

33. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one silicone polymer, selected more particularly from silicone resins, silicone acrylate polymers, acrylamide-silicone copolymers, or mixtures thereof, in a content not exceeding 5% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; preferably the composition is devoid of it.

34. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

35. A process for treating human keratinous materials, preferably makeup, in particular skin and / or lips, preferably lips, wherein the composition according to any one of the preceding claims is applied.