Down-proof sewing process of spliced down jacket

Abstract

The invention belongs to the technical field of garment processing, and particularly relates to a down-proof sewing process of a spliced down jacket, which comprises the following specific steps: calculating a chest dart amount delta F and a back dart amount delta B according to a formula, and scribing and cutting a front piece and a back piece of a fabric spliced cutting piece respectively according to the chest dart amount delta F and the back dart amount delta B; aligning the fabric splicing cutting piece and the down feather liner cutting piece at the same part, folding the splicing edge inwards, and dispensing and fixing the splicing edge; according to a designed bin dividing line, quilting and bin dividing are conducted on the aligned fabric splicing cut-parts and the aligned down feather liner cut-parts; filling quantitative down feather into each independent small bin by using a down feather filling machine through a down feather filling opening reserved in the down feather liner cutting piece; and sewing the down filling opening, and assembling to obtain the ready-made garment. When the down jacket is manufactured by splicing the fabrics with different thicknesses, the down jacket can still ensure good down-proof performance.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of garment processing technology, specifically a down-proof sewing process for spliced ​​down jackets. Background Technology

[0002] Patchwork down jackets are winter garments designed by combining different materials, colors, or functional modules. Common combinations include down with fleece, wool, and denim. For example, the front panel might be filled with down for warmth, while fleece might be used for the cuffs or back to enhance comfort against the skin. Patchwork down jackets combine practicality and aesthetics, and their novel designs and strong three-dimensional effect have made them a mainstream product in the market.

[0003] The existing sewing process for patchwork down jackets has many defects: the overlapping of fabric at the seams results in excessively large gaps in the stitching, making it easy for down to escape through the seam holes; traditional sewing thread uses ordinary cotton thread, which has no elastic shrinkage function, and the seam holes expand after washing, exacerbating down leakage; the pattern design during patchwork lacks scientific material-saving distribution, which can easily lead to problems such as imbalance between the front and back, and slanted threads; some processes rely on ironing and fusible interlining, which not only consumes energy but may also cause the fabric to be scorched and the down to be exposed; when installing buttons, they penetrate the down lining layer, further increasing the risk of down leakage.

[0004] A search revealed that patent CN114468438B discloses a prototype garment design method. The method involves first acquiring torso surface data, then obtaining zero ease data based on this data, and finally obtaining dimensional transformation data to indicate the basic dimensions of the template. Specifically, the bust dart (XSS) = x / 13.3 + 2.6, with a gradation of 0.3; and the scapular dart (XJJG) = x / 13.3 + 6, with a gradation of 0.3. Next, a reference curve is obtained based on the torso surface data, zero ease data, and dimensional transformation data. The zero ease data is used to indicate the basic dimensions of the template. Finally, a garment template is constructed based on the zero ease data, the dimensional transformation data, and the reference curve. This prototype, based on the minimum outer contour of the human torso, intuitively reflects the relationship between the human body and garment structure. The defined bust and scapular darts allow the garment to better conform to the body's curves, improving comfort.

[0005] However, this method does not take into account the impact of fabric thickness on the amount of fabric darts. Fabrics of different thicknesses are cut using the same dart line and then spliced ​​together. Stress concentration is easily caused at the seams, making it more prone to down leakage. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The purpose of this invention is to provide a down-proof sewing process for spliced ​​down jackets to solve the problems mentioned in the background art.

[0007] A down-proof sewing process for patchwork down jackets, the specific steps of which are as follows: Calculate the front bust dart ΔF and back bust dart ΔB according to the formula, and then cut out the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing panels according to the lines of the front bust dart ΔF and back bust dart ΔB respectively: ΔF = k1B + k2h; Where ΔF is the chest dart, k1 is the contribution coefficient of the chest circumference of the down lining piece to the chest dart, B is the chest circumference of the down lining piece, k2 is the contribution coefficient of the chest protrusion height of the down lining piece to the chest dart, and h is the chest protrusion height of the down lining piece. ΔB = k3B + k4L + 2; Where ΔB is the back dart amount, k3 is the contribution coefficient of the chest circumference of the down lining piece to the back dart amount, B is the chest circumference of the down lining piece, k4 is the contribution coefficient of the back length of the down lining piece to the back dart amount, and L is the back length of the down lining piece. Align the fabric splicing pieces and the down lining pieces in the same area, fold the splicing edges inward, and fix the splicing edges with glue. According to the designed compartment lines, the aligned fabric splicing pieces and the down lining pieces are quilted and compartmented. A certain amount of down is filled into each individual compartment using a down filling machine through the filling port reserved on the down liner panel. Sew up the filling opening and assemble to obtain the finished garment.

[0008] As a preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the thickness of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing cut pieces is less than 0.5mm, k1=0.07, k2=0.4, k3=0.07, and k4=0.09.

[0009] As a preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the thickness of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing cut pieces is 0.5-1.5mm, k1=0.08, k2=0.5, k3=0.075, and k4=0.1.

[0010] As a preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the thickness of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing panels is greater than 1.5mm, k1=0.09, k2=0.6, k3=0.08, and k4=0.11.

[0011] As a preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the step of folding the splicing edge inward and fixing the splicing edge with adhesive is specifically achieved by applying adhesive with a splicing edge spacing of 2-3mm, a molding temperature of 55℃, and a pressure of 2kg / m. 2 Time: 12 seconds.

[0012] As a preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the filling down is 95% grey goose down with a fill power ≥ 800.

[0013] As a preferred embodiment of the above technical solution, the material of the fabric splicing piece is one or more combinations of knitted fabric, woven fabric and woolen fabric.

[0014] Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following beneficial effects: 1. This invention compensates for the amount of fabric darts used for fabrics of different thicknesses. Different thicknesses of fabrics are cut with different dart lines and then spliced ​​together. When wearing the garment and engaging in daily activities, stress concentration is less likely to occur at the seams, reducing the incidence of down leakage at the seams. This invention can still ensure good down-proof performance when using fabrics of different thicknesses to splice down jackets.

[0015] 2. When using this invention to manufacture down jackets made from the same fabric, the different compensation coefficients of the front chest dart ΔF and the back dart ΔB of the front panel of the fabric splicing piece still ensure the fit between the spliced ​​fabric and the human body. This is basically consistent with the amount of down leakage when the down jacket fabric is cut using the existing dart calculation formula, indicating that this invention has universality in calculating the dart of down jacket fabric. Detailed Implementation

[0016] The technical solution of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below with reference to the embodiments of the present invention.

[0017] Example 1 The front piece of the fabric patchwork is made of knitted fabric with a thickness of less than 0.5mm, and the back piece of the fabric patchwork is made of woven fabric with a thickness of 0.5-1.5mm. The down lining piece is cut according to the chest circumference B=90cm, chest protrusion height h=7cm, and back length L=42cm. Calculate the front bodice dart ΔF and back dart ΔB of the fabric splicing pieces according to the formula: ΔF = k1B + k2h; k1 = 0.07, k2 = 0.4, chest circumference B = 90cm, chest projection height h = 7cm, ΔF = 9.1cm; ΔB = k3B + k4L + 2; k3 = 0.075, k4 = 0.1, back length L = 42cm, ΔB = 12.95cm; Align the fabric panels and down lining panels for the same area, fold the seam edges inward, and apply adhesive to the seam edges for fixation. Specifically, apply adhesive at 2-3mm intervals between the seam edges. Molding temperature: 55℃, pressure: 2kg / m². 2 Time: 12 seconds; Following the designed compartment lines, quilt the aligned fabric patchwork pieces and down lining pieces into compartments. Fill each individual compartment with 95% grey goose down with a fill power of ≥800 through the filling holes reserved on the down lining panel using a down filling machine. Sew up the filling opening and assemble to obtain the finished garment.

[0018] Example 2 The front piece of the fabric splicing panel is made of knitted fabric with a thickness of less than 0.5mm, and the back piece of the fabric splicing panel is made of woolen fabric with a thickness of more than 1.5mm. The down lining panel is cut according to the chest circumference B=90cm, chest protrusion height h=7cm, and back length L=42cm. Calculate the front bodice dart ΔF and back dart ΔB of the fabric splicing pieces according to the formula: ΔF = k1B + k2h; k1=0.08, k2=0.5, chest circumference B=90cm, chest projection height h=7cm, ΔF=10.7cm; ΔB = k3B + k4L + 2; k3=0.08, k4=0.11, back length L=42cm, ΔB=13.82cm; Align the fabric panels and down lining panels for the same area, fold the seam edges inward, and apply adhesive to the seam edges for fixation. Specifically, apply adhesive at 2-3mm intervals between the seam edges. Molding temperature: 55℃, pressure: 2kg / m². 2 Time: 12 seconds; Following the designed compartment lines, quilt the aligned fabric patchwork pieces and down lining pieces into compartments. Fill each individual compartment with 95% grey goose down with a fill power of ≥800 through the filling holes reserved on the down lining panel using a down filling machine. Sew up the filling opening and assemble to obtain the finished garment.

[0019] Example 3 The front piece of the fabric patchwork is made of woven fabric with a thickness of 0.5-1.5mm, and the back piece of the fabric patchwork is made of woolen fabric with a thickness greater than 1.5mm. The down lining piece is cut according to the chest circumference B=90cm, chest protrusion height h=7cm, and back length L=42cm. Calculate the front bodice dart ΔF and back dart ΔB of the fabric splicing pieces according to the formula: ΔF = k1B + k2h; k1=0.08, k2=0.5, chest circumference B=90cm, chest projection height h=7cm, ΔF=10.7cm; ΔB = k3B + k4L + 2; k3=0.08, k4=0.11, back length L=42cm, ΔB=13.82cm; Align the fabric panels and down lining panels for the same area, fold the seam edges inward, and apply adhesive to the seam edges for fixation. Specifically, apply adhesive at 2-3mm intervals between the seam edges. Molding temperature: 55℃, pressure: 2kg / m². 2 Time: 12 seconds; Following the designed compartment lines, quilt the aligned fabric patchwork pieces and down lining pieces into compartments. Fill each individual compartment with 95% grey goose down with a fill power of ≥800 through the filling holes reserved on the down lining panel using a down filling machine. Sew up the filling opening and assemble to obtain the finished garment.

[0020] Example 4 The only difference between Example 4 and Example 1 is that the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing pieces are made of knitted fabric with a thickness of less than 0.5mm.

[0021] Example 5 The only difference between Example 5 and Example 2 is that the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing pieces are made of woolen fabric with a thickness greater than 1.5mm.

[0022] Example 6 The only difference between Example 6 and Example 3 is that the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing pieces are both made of woven fabric with a thickness of 0.5-1.5mm.

[0023] Comparative Example 1 Compared with Example 1, Comparative Example 1 uses the existing material saving calculation method to calculate the material saving of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing pieces before cutting. The cut front and back pieces of fabric are then combined with fabric pieces from other parts and assembled into garments using the same down lining pieces as in Example 1.

[0024] Comparative Example 2 Compared with Example 4, Comparative Example 2 uses the existing material saving calculation method to calculate the material saving of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing pieces before cutting. The cut front and back pieces of fabric are then combined with fabric pieces from other parts and assembled into garments using the same down lining pieces as in Example 4.

[0025] The down leakage amount of the eight down jackets provided in Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 was measured. The measurement method is as follows: Panasonic washer-dryer combo machine, model XQG100-F1RD3, was used for washing and drying at 24℃ in normal mode. After each washing and drying, the sample was placed in a clean lint-free bag and gently patted 10 times. All the down that had leaked out of the bag was collected and weighed using an electronic balance. The cycle was repeated 10 times and the total weight of the down leakage was counted. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0026]

[0027] As can be seen from Table 1, the results of Examples 1 to 6 show that when down jackets are made by splicing fabrics of different thicknesses, the present invention can still ensure good down-proof performance; the amount of down leakage is only increased by less than 6.3% compared with down jackets made by splicing the same fabrics.

[0028] The results of Comparative Example 1 and Example 1 show that the present invention can effectively compensate for the amount of down leakage of fabrics of different thicknesses. Compared with the prior art, the amount of down leakage in down jackets made by splicing fabrics of different thicknesses is reduced by more than 71%.

[0029] The results of Comparative Example 2 and Example 4 show that when using the present invention to manufacture down jackets made from the same fabric, the different compensation coefficients of the front chest dart ΔF and the back dart ΔB of the front panel of the fabric splicing piece still ensure the fit of the fabric to the human body after splicing. This is basically consistent with the amount of down leakage when the down jacket fabric is cut using the existing dart calculation formula, indicating that the present invention has universality in calculating the dart of down jacket fabric.

[0030] The eight types of down jackets provided in Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were then worn in simulated human motion models with a chest circumference B=90cm, chest protrusion height h=7cm, and back length L=42cm. The human models had embedded robotic arms to simulate human bending, chest expansion, and twisting movements, simulating daily activities while wearing down jackets. Every 4 hours of simulated wearing, the jackets were washed and dried once in a Panasonic washer-dryer combo (model XQG100-F1RD3) at a normal water temperature of 24℃. The samples were then placed in a clean, dust-free cloth bag and gently patted 10 times to collect all the down feathers that had escaped from the bag. The samples were then weighed using an electronic balance. This process was repeated 10 times, and the total weight of the down feathers was recorded. The results are shown in Table 2.

[0031]

[0032] As shown in Table 2, in Comparative Example 1, the down jacket made by splicing fabrics of different thicknesses using existing technology had a down leakage amount as high as 32.7g because the amount of down embellishment in the front and back pieces was not specifically adjusted. In contrast, the present invention can effectively compensate for the amount of down embellishment in fabrics of different thicknesses, making the fabrics of different materials fit the human body better after cutting and splicing. Stress concentration is less likely to occur at the seams, reducing the incidence of down leakage at the seams. Even after daily exercise and multiple washes, it can still maintain a low amount of down leakage, which is more than 142% lower than that in Comparative Example 1.

[0033] Although embodiments of the invention have been shown and described, it will be understood by those skilled in the art that various changes, modifications, substitutions and alterations can be made to these embodiments without departing from the principles and spirit of the invention, the scope of which is defined by the appended claims and their equivalents.

Claims

1. A down-proof sewing process for a spliced ​​down jacket, characterized in that, The specific steps are as follows: Calculate the front bust dart ΔF and back bust dart ΔB according to the formula, and then cut out the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing panels according to the lines of the front bust dart ΔF and back bust dart ΔB respectively: ΔF = k1B + k2h; Where ΔF is the chest dart, k1 is the contribution coefficient of the chest circumference of the down lining piece to the chest dart, B is the chest circumference of the down lining piece, k2 is the contribution coefficient of the chest protrusion height of the down lining piece to the chest dart, and h is the chest protrusion height of the down lining piece. ΔB = k3B + k4L + 2; Where ΔB is the back dart amount, k3 is the contribution coefficient of the chest circumference of the down lining piece to the back dart amount, B is the chest circumference of the down lining piece, k4 is the contribution coefficient of the back length of the down lining piece to the back dart amount, and L is the back length of the down lining piece. Align the fabric splicing pieces and the down lining pieces in the same area, fold the splicing edges inward, and fix the splicing edges with glue. According to the designed compartment lines, the aligned fabric splicing pieces and the down lining pieces are quilted and compartmented. A certain amount of down is filled into each individual compartment using a down filling machine through the filling port reserved on the down liner panel. Sew up the filling opening and assemble to obtain the finished garment.

2. The anti-down-leakage sewing process for a spliced ​​down jacket according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickness of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing panels is less than 0.5 mm, k1 = 0.07, k2 = 0.4, k3 = 0.07, and k4 = 0.

09.

3. The anti-down-leakage sewing process for a spliced ​​down jacket according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickness of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing panels is 0.5-1.5mm, k1=0.08, k2=0.5, k3=0.075, k4=0.

1.

4. The anti-down-leakage sewing process for a spliced ​​down jacket according to claim 1, characterized in that: The thickness of the front and back pieces of the fabric splicing panels is greater than 1.5mm, k1=0.09, k2=0.6, k3=0.08, k4=0.

11.

5. The anti-down-leakage sewing process for a spliced ​​down jacket according to claim 1, characterized in that: The process involves folding the spliced ​​edges inwards and fixing them with adhesive, specifically by applying adhesive at 2-3mm intervals between the spliced ​​edges, with a molding temperature of 55℃ and a pressure of 2kg / m. 2 Time: 12 seconds.

6. The anti-down-leakage sewing process for a spliced ​​down jacket according to claim 1, characterized in that: The filling material is 95% grey goose down with a fill power ≥ 800.

7. The anti-down-leakage sewing process for a spliced ​​down jacket according to claim 1, characterized in that: The fabric splicing pieces are made of one or more combinations of knitted fabric, woven fabric, and woolen fabric.

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