Electronic jacquard double-flower into single-flower fabric, weaving method and application thereof

Abstract

The application relates to a double-flower changed single-flower fabric of an electronic jacquard machine and a weaving method and application, and belongs to the technical field of textile fabric weaving. The warp yarn is composed of wool yarns of multiple colors and arranged in a circulation along the warp direction; the weft yarn is composed of wool yarns and 90-110D polyester low-elasticity filaments; one side of the fabric is a 2-over-2-under right slant weave of surface warp and surface weft interweaving, and presents a check effect; the other side of the fabric is a 3-over-1-under right slant weave of lining warp and lining weft interweaving, and presents a pattern effect; the polyester low-elasticity filament serves as a double-layer binding point; steps are as follows: 1) warping; 2) threading heddles and reeds; 3) weft yarn leading; and 4) weaving. The application realizes a double-sided color-weaving effect of one side check and the other side jacquard, the two sides of the fabric adopt different weaves and color yarn interweaving, cooperate with the polyester double-layer binding point to improve the fabric stability, and have the advantages of beauty and practicability, and the cost is saved.

Description

Technical Field

[0001] This invention belongs to the field of textile fabric weaving technology, and relates to an electronic jacquard machine for converting double-pattern fabric into single-pattern fabric, as well as its weaving method and application. Background Technology

[0002] Electronic jacquard rapier looms are core equipment in the textile industry for weaving jacquard fabrics. The number of needles and jacquard binding of their electronic augers are typically fixed, only suitable for products with standard pattern sizes and warp densities. Currently, for special products with pattern sizes and warp densities that do not meet standard standards, the industry commonly uses the method of purchasing compatible electronic augers and jacquard bindings to meet production needs. However, these equipment parts are expensive, and for small-batch, multi-variety production orders, additional equipment purchases significantly increase production costs, making it difficult for companies to flexibly respond to market trends.

[0003] Meanwhile, while wool fabrics possess excellent texture and wearing experience, they inherently suffer from shrinkage and felting defects. These defects are particularly prominent in the production and application of double-layer jacquard wool fabrics, causing significant industry pain points: the shrinkage properties of the double-layer seams differ significantly from those of the main fabric layer. If the double-layer seams are too densely packed, it can cause abnormal overall fabric shrinkage. Conversely, if the double-layer seams themselves lack shrinkage characteristics, the fabric will become uneven after washing and shrinkage, with the seams protruding directly onto one side of the fabric, and this defect is irreparable. This problem not only leads to returns from downstream customers, severely impacting product sales, but also significantly reduces the user experience for end consumers, becoming a key factor restricting the industrial application of double-layer jacquard wool fabrics. Currently, the industry has not proposed an effective solution to this problem. Neither has it considered adding polyester or other synthetic fibers to the weft yarns to resist weft shrinkage and improve the overall shrinkage resistance of the fabric, nor has it explored an optimization scheme to incorporate polyester or nylon synthetic fibers into the warp yarns to balance the shrinkage of the double-layer joints and the main body of the fabric. Therefore, it is impossible to solve the problem of uneven fabric after washing from the perspective of raw materials and structural design.

[0004] The Chinese invention patent entitled "A Self-Joining Method for Double-Sided Jacquard Fabrics" (publication number CN107723879B) improves the flexibility of the fabric combination and the efficiency of determining the double-layer joining points by synthesizing the front and back weave diagrams according to the warp and weft yarn arrangement ratio, determining the double-layer joining points based on the principle of not exposing the bottom, and generating a joining diagram. This method ensures the integrity and independence of the double-sided pattern. However, it still has shortcomings such as weak equipment adaptability, poor cost control, insufficient fabric stability, low flexibility in pattern and density adaptation, lack of operation verification mechanism, and low error tolerance. In addition, it does not address the issues of wool fabric shrinkage and felting, and the flatness problems caused by uneven shrinkage of the double-layer joining points and fabric. It cannot balance equipment adaptability, production cost, and the actual wearing performance of the fabric.

[0005] In summary, how to expand the product compatibility of electronic jacquard machines through technological upgrades without making large new investments in equipment, while solving the problems of easy shrinkage of double-layer wool jacquard fabrics and uneven fabric caused by uneven shrinkage at double-layer joints, thereby improving fabric performance and reducing the production cost of small-batch special products, has become an urgent technical problem to be solved in the textile industry. Summary of the Invention

[0006] The technical problem to be solved by the present invention is to overcome the shortcomings of the prior art and provide a method and application for converting double-pattern fabric to single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine. The present invention achieves a double-sided color-woven effect with one side being checkered and the other side being jacquard. The two sides of the fabric are interwoven with different structures and colored yarns, and the double-layer polyester joints enhance the stability of the fabric. It is both beautiful and practical, and saves costs.

[0007] To achieve the above objectives, this invention provides a double-pattern to single-pattern fabric for electronic jacquard knitting machines, composed of warp and weft yarns. The warp yarns are made of wool yarns of various colors arranged in a circular pattern along the warp direction; the weft yarns are made of wool yarns and 90-110D polyester low-elasticity yarn; one side of the fabric is a 2-up 2-down right-hand twill weave with the outer warp and outer weft interwoven, presenting a checkered effect; the other side of the fabric is a 3-up 1-down right-hand twill weave with the inner warp and inner weft interwoven, presenting a floral effect; the polyester low-elasticity yarn serves as the double-layer joint.

[0008] The preferred polyester low-elasticity yarn is one that matches the color of the fabric. Even if black polyester low-elasticity yarn is chosen, color bleeding will not occur. The wool yarn is also wool-colored yarn. 100D polyester low-elasticity yarn is preferred, as it provides better tension matching with wool yarn and better stability of the double-layer joints. Furthermore, it saves costs compared to using wool yarn, reducing material consumption and improving production efficiency while maintaining structural integrity. If the polyester low-elasticity yarn is too thick, the joints will protrude, resulting in a rough feel, uneven fabric surface, unclear openings during manufacturing, and potential for skipped stitches and warp breaks. If the polyester low-elasticity yarn is too thin, the joints will have poor strength, be prone to breakage, and cause pilling, yarn breakage, excessive fuzz, and yarn loosening during weaving. The smoothness of the fabric is related to the spacing of the double-layer joints; too large or too small a spacing will reduce surface smoothness.

[0009] The adjacent spacing of the double-layer joints is 0.14-0.16 inches. As the core structure connecting the inner and outer layers of the fabric, the material selection and the control of the 0.14-0.16 inch adjacent spacing of the double-layer joints are key designs for balancing the stability of the joint structure and the original hand feel of the wool fabric. This spacing allows the polyester low-elasticity yarn to only play a functional role in fixing the double layers and improving shrinkage and tear resistance, without compromising the original tactile experience of the fabric itself. The double-layer joints and the fabric hand feel are not simply a matter of influence and being influenced, but rather a deep correlation and synergy based on structural stability and centered on preserving the original hand feel of wool. This invention solves the problem of hand feel deterioration caused by uneven fabric shrinkage in traditional wool double-layer joints through the selection of polyester low-elasticity yarn and this precise spacing design. The double-layer joints not only fix the double-layer structure and improve shrinkage resistance, but also become a key element in optimizing the overall hand feel of the fabric. Furthermore, in conjunction with the twill weave and colored yarn combination of the fabric, the fabric ultimately achieves a hand feel that is soft, fluffy, and crisp.

[0010] This spacing requires high-precision narrow-range control, and there are difficulties in precise positioning, yarn tension, equipment compatibility, and process coordination during weaving. This invention solves these weaving problems one by one through a series of designs including equipment technical improvement, process standardization, raw material selection, multiple verification, and parameter optimization, and achieves stable weaving of double-layer joints at this spacing.

[0011] Preferably, the spacing between the double-layer joints is 0.152 inches. Every 12 wefts of wool yarn, one polyester low-elasticity yarn is added, and the polyester low-elasticity yarn is interwoven once with each of the outer and inner warp yarns in the 8 warp yarns to form a double-layer joint.

[0012] The core function of double-layer seams is to connect and fix two layers of fabric as stress-bearing connection points, distributing and transferring stress, thereby enhancing the fabric's abrasion resistance, tear strength, and overall durability to a certain extent. Through weaving processes, yarns are used to connect two independent layers of fabric at specific locations into a single unit. Double-layer seams effectively prevent loosening or exposure of the underlying fabric in patterned areas, improving the overall strength and durability of the fabric. By precisely controlling the position of the double-layer seams and the color of the yarn used, two layers of fabric with different colors or textures can be connected, cleverly concealing the seams. Controlling thickness and bulkiness: By adjusting the density and connection method of the double-layer seams, the tightness between the two layers can be controlled, thus affecting the overall thickness, bulkiness, and hand feel of the fabric. This achieves the effect of "two different colors and patterns on two sides" in a single fabric.

[0013] The multi-colored wool yarn has 2-5 colors. Preferably, the multi-colored wool yarn has 4 colors: dawn yellow, safflower, mocha mousse nut, and amber brown.

[0014] The warp yarns are composed of wool yarns in four colors: dawn yellow, auburn, mocha mousse nut, and amber brown, in a yarn count ratio of 255-257:559-561:2012:540. The warp yarns are composed of metric wool yarns of 14Nm count (dawn yellow, auburn, mocha mousse nut, and amber brown) in a yarn count ratio of 255-257:559-561:2012:540. The four wool yarn colors in the warp yarns are combined in specific proportions and interwoven with the weft yarns to achieve a double-sided color-weave effect with jacquard on one side and a checkered pattern on the other, resulting in rich and harmonious colors that meet diverse aesthetic needs and suit the product's visual appeal. Preferably, 592 warp yarns form one cycle, for a total of 3368 warp yarns.

[0015] Preferably, the weft yarn consists of four colors of wool yarn: 14Nm metric wool yarn in Dawn Yellow, 14Nm metric wool yarn in Scarlet, 14Nm metric wool yarn in Mocha Mousse Nut, and 14Nm metric wool yarn in Amber Brown, and 100D polyester low-elasticity yarn in a yarn count ratio of 1635-1637: 547-549: 1732:416:361. The weft yarn, based on the four wool yarn colors, adds 100D black polyester low-elasticity yarn in a specific proportion. This retains the texture of the wool fabric while using the black polyester low-elasticity yarn as a double-layer joint to provide support for fabric stability and enrich the weft weave layers.

[0016] The following colored wool yarns are designated as follows by Shandong Tianlu Textile Co., Ltd.: 14Nm metric count - Dawn Yellow (YL1-04); 14Nm metric count - Scarlet (YL4-03); 14Nm metric count - Mocha Mousse Nut (YL3-06); and 14Nm metric count - Amber Brown (YL5-01).

[0017] The warp density is 41-43 threads / inch; the weft density is 84-86 threads / inch. Preferably, the warp density is 42 threads / inch and the weft density is 85.3 threads / inch; the warp and weft densities are reasonably matched to balance the fabric's thickness, warmth, and softness.

[0018] According to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention also provides a method for weaving a double-pattern fabric converted to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine, comprising the following steps:

[0019] (1) Warping: Divide 3300-3400 warp yarns into 5-7 patterned warp yarns and wind them onto the same warp beam; preferably, divide 3368 warp yarns into 6 patterned warp yarns and wind them onto the same warp beam.

[0020] (2) Threading the heddle: First, divide the heddle into two areas, W and Y, and then thread the heddle through the warp yarns in each area in a loop; thread the heddle with 20-22 teeth / 2 inches, 3-5 teeth / reed.

[0021] (3) Weft insertion: The wool yarn and 90-110D polyester low elastic yarn are alternately inserted using the rapier weft insertion method; the polyester low elastic yarn is inserted once every 12 wefts of wool yarn, and the polyester low elastic yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and the inner warp once to form a double-layer joint point. The wool yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and the inner warp to form a double-sided fabric structure.

[0022] (4) Weaving: The rapier loom is used for weaving. In the W zone, the even number of needles are removed and the odd number of needles are retained; in the Y zone, the odd number of needles are removed and the even number of needles are retained; the number of main pattern needles is distributed in a 1 solid 3 empty pattern, and the whole width is achieved by combining the W zone and the Y zone.

[0023] "One hanging two pattern" and "one hanging one pattern" refer to the number of threads hanging under the vertical needle of the jacquard electronic faucet, that is, the number of pattern repeats on the inner width of the jacquard fabric. "One hanging two" means that there are two pattern repeats on the inner width of the jacquard fabric, and "one hanging one" means that the entire width of the jacquard fabric is a single pattern.

[0024] The W and Y zones of the main pattern needle correspond to the W and Y zones of the heddle, respectively. The warp yarns of the W zone of the main pattern needle are inserted into the W zone of the heddle, and the warp yarns of the Y zone of the main pattern needle are inserted into the W zone of the heddle.

[0025] Step (2) of threading the reed includes two parts: threading the heddle and threading the reed. This ensures accurate warp yarn arrangement, with the warp yarns threaded through the corresponding heddles according to the pattern sequence. Specifically, for warp yarns 1-5040 in zone W: threading the 1st, 5th, 9th, 13th, and 17th warp yarns… ending at the 10077th solid needle. For warp yarns 5041-10080 in zone Y: threading the 2nd, 6th, 10th, 14th, and 18th warp yarns… ending at the 10078th solid needle. This facilitates smooth fabric weaving while ensuring the appearance and quality of the double-layered fabric structure. Step (2) preferably uses a reed with 21.3 teeth / 2 inches and 4 teeth / reed.

[0026] The width of the rapier loom described in step (3) is ≥120 inches; the rapier loom uses rapier weft insertion, which is beneficial for wool weaving and can reduce weft stops caused by unclear loom opening due to excessively long wool yarn hairs; wool yarn has low twist and is relatively fluffy, and rapier weft insertion can prevent twist changes during the weft insertion process, ensuring the style and quality of the entire fabric. The total number of warp yarns is the sum of the main warp stitches and the edge stitches.

[0027] The specific operation of step (4) is to divide the original 10000-10100 main pattern needles into W area and Y area with the center as the symmetrical point. In W area, even number needles are removed and odd number needles are retained. In Y area, odd number needles are removed and even number needles are retained. W area is needles 1-5040 and Y area is needles 5041-10080. The number of main pattern needles is distributed in the manner of 1 solid and 3 empty. The whole width is achieved by combining W area and Y area.

[0028] Preferably, the original 10080 main warp needle count is divided into W and Y zones symmetrically with the center as the point of view. In zone W, even-numbered needles are removed and odd-numbered needles are retained; in zone Y, odd-numbered needles are removed and even-numbered needles are retained. Zone W consists of needles 1-5040, and zone Y consists of needles 5041-10080. Original fabrication refers to completely replicating the warp threading, reed threading, and pattern board / needle configuration according to the original process parameters of the fabric design.

[0029] For a rapier loom with 10080 needles, a warp density of 168 threads / inch, and a width of 121 inches, the jacquard fabric density is adjusted using W and Y zone needle-pulling technology, transforming the one-hang-two-pattern pattern into a one-hang-one-pattern pattern. Based on product requirements, the warp density is changed to 42 threads / inch for one-hang-one pattern, and the width is changed to 80.2 inches.

[0030] In step (4), the empty needle calculation method is first used. According to the product design, the warp density is 42 threads / inch, which is one-quarter of the original warp density. 168 / 42=4 is calculated. Therefore, the warp threads to be installed need to be changed according to the method of 1 solid needle and 3 empty needles. The distribution position of the solid needles in the W area is left on the odd number needles: the 1st, 5th, 9th, 13th and 17th needles. The calculation continues until the 10077th solid needle. The empty needles are placed on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 7th and 8th warp yarns and continue until the 10080th warp yarn. In zone Y, the solid needles are distributed by leaving the 2nd, 6th, 10th, 14th, and 18th warp threads on even-numbered needles, counting backwards to the 10078th solid needle. The empty needles are left by leaving the 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 7th, 8th, and 9th warp threads, counting backwards to the 10080th warp thread. The odd-even combination of zones W and Y achieves a one-to-one pattern across the entire width.

[0031] After achieving one hanging per piece, based on the product design total diameter of 3368, the corresponding width is 80.2 inches, while the actual number of needles is 5040. That is, the difference between the actual number of needles and the design total diameter is 5040-3368=1672. The extra 1672 needles are evenly distributed to the outer side of the W area (1-836) and the outer side of the Y area (4205-5040).

[0032] The verification method involves designing three heddle threading operation patterns based on the design concept. These patterns also serve as verification patterns for the heddle threading on the fabric. For areas W and Y, separate verification patterns are created. In area W, the threading pattern involves lifting the 1st, 5th, 9th, 13th, 17th…10077th stitch, with all remaining stitches dropping. During verification, the yarn at the corresponding stitch position should lift correctly. Errors can be manually corrected by the operator. In area Y, the threading pattern involves lifting the 2nd, 6th, 10th, 14th, 18th…10078th stitch, with all remaining stitches dropping. During verification, the yarn at the corresponding position should lift correctly. Errors can also be manually corrected by the operator. Finally, a third heddle pattern board is designed, which combines the heddle pattern boards in the W and Y areas into a single pattern board. This board can also be made into a satin pattern board to check for errors or mistakes in the fabric from the first to the 10080th stitch. If there are any errors, the operator can make manual corrections.

[0033] Weft yarn arrangement rules: In 55.12-inch weaving, the order of placing the weft feeders for the four types of wool yarn and polyester yarn is as follows: Position A is wool yarn metric count 14Nm - Dawn Yellow, Position B is wool yarn metric count 14Nm - Scarlet, Position C is wool yarn metric count 14Nm - Mocha Mousse Nut, Position D is wool yarn metric count 14Nm - Amber Brown, and Position d is 100D black polyester low elastic yarn.

[0034] Each cycle of weft yarn consists of 741 weft yarns, totaling 4693 yarns (excluding 816 free-knit weft yarns). Detailed weft yarn pattern: Multiply by a number to represent the number of cycles, and the number before the letter represents the number of yarns.

[0035] For example: [(1D1A1C)×41d]×3 means that 1 amber brown, 1 dawn yellow, and 1 mocha mousse nut color are cycled 4 times, then 1 100D black polyester low elastic yarn is added, and finally this group is cycled 3 times.

[0036] [(1B1A1C)×41d]×16; [(1D1A1C)×41d]×3[(1A1A1C)×41d]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×2;[(1A1A 1C)×41d]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×3[(1C1A1C)×41d]; (1D1A1C)×41d[(1C1A1C)×41d]×3(1D1 A1C)×41d; [(1C1A1C)×41d]×3(1D1A1C)×41d[(1C1A1C)×41d]×6; [(1D1A1C)×41d]×3[(1 A1A1C)×41d]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×2; [(1A1A1C)×41d]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×10; [(1B1A1C)× 41d]×35]×3;[(1D1A1C)×41d]×3[(1A1A1C)×41d]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×2;[(1A1A1C)×41d ]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×3[(1C1A1C)×41d]; (1D1A1C)×41d[(1C1A1C)×41d]×3(1D1A1C)×41d ;[(1C1A1C)×41d]×3(1D1A1C)×41d[(1C1A1C)×41d]×6;[(1D1A1C)×41d]×3[(1A1A1C)×4 1d]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×2; [(1A1A1C)×41d]×3[(1D1A1C)×41d]×10; [(1B1A1C)×41d]×16.

[0037] The effective number of stitches for the floral pattern is 3368. The remaining stitches are supplemented to 5040 and evenly distributed to both sides. The sample design directly integrates 18 edge stitches and 2 twisted edge stitches. Warp yarns 1 to 836 are the number of stitches to be supplemented for the left side (unnecessary stitches). Warp yarns 837 to 854 are the 18 left-side yarns. Warp yarns 855 and 856 are twisted edge yarns. Warp yarns 857 to 4184 are the effective main stitches. Warp yarns 4185 to 4186 are the right-side twisted edge yarns. Warp yarns 4187 to 4204 are the 18 right-side yarns. Warp yarns 4205 to 5040 are the warp yarns to be supplemented for the right side (unnecessary stitches). The total number of warp yarns on the loom is 5040.

[0038] The pattern cycle is as follows: 9.566 inches of open weft (816 wefts) form the tassel, and 55.12 inches are woven according to the weft yarn arrangement. The product design width of 80.2 inches constitutes one independent pattern cycle. The open weft speed is 200 revolutions per minute. The required number of open wefts is calculated based on the weft density and tassel size: 85.3 threads / inch × 9.566 inches = 816 wefts. The open weft process on the loom achieves the effect of feeding only warp yarns without weft insertion during weaving. The 9.566 inches of warp yarn formed here will form the tassel after subsequent processing.

[0039] According to another aspect of the present invention, the present invention also provides the application of the above-described electronic jacquard machine double-pattern to single-pattern fabric or fabric prepared by the above-described weaving method in the fields of home textiles and clothing. The present invention adapts to the production of various types of scarves and shawls by adjusting the needle-pulling pattern, quickly responding to the diversified and personalized demands of the market, and has broad application prospects in high-end wool scarves and shawls.

[0040] Compared with the prior art, the beneficial effects of this invention are:

[0041] 1. This invention achieves a double-sided yarn-dyed effect with a checkered pattern on one side and a jacquard pattern on the other. The fabric uses different weaves and colored yarns on both sides, combined with double-layer polyester seams to enhance fabric stability, resulting in a combination of aesthetics and practicality while saving costs. The breaking strength (warp) of this invention is 258-260N; breaking strength (weft) is 515-520N; shrinkage rate (warp) is 2-3%; shrinkage rate (weft) is 2-3%; tear strength is 13N; weight deviation is 3-4%; surface smoothness is 10 / 10; hand feel before washing is 10 / 10, and the hand feel remains 10 / 10 after 10 washes; there are no broken warp threads, no skipped yarns, no holes, no stains, and no color differences.

[0042] 2. This invention breaks through the limitations of the fixed number of needles and pattern cycles in existing equipment, doubling the maximum pattern cycle size and adapting to the needs of more products with unconventional warp densities and pattern sizes. There is no need to purchase new electronic needle taps and jacquard equipment; through technical upgrades to existing equipment and W / Y zone needle-pulling technology, the conversion from one hanging needle to two patterns can be achieved, completing the production of new products. A single jacquard electronic needle tap and through-yarn equipment can save at least 270,000 RMB in production costs. Simultaneously, by adjusting the needle-pulling pattern according to different warp densities, it adapts to the production of multiple product categories, responding faster to the market's demand for small-batch, diversified production. Attached Figure Description

[0043] Figure 1 This is a schematic diagram illustrating the addition of stitch count, edge structure, and edging in Example 1.

[0044] Figure 2 This is a schematic diagram of the floating long sample partitioning in Example 1.

[0045] Figure 3 This is a schematic diagram of the W and Y sample partitions in Example 1.

[0046] Figure 4 This is a schematic diagram of the distribution of meridians 1-2520 in Example 1.

[0047] Figure 5 This is a schematic diagram of the distribution of meridians 2521-5040 in Example 1.

[0048] Figure 6 This is a schematic diagram of the parameter settings and specification changes for the sample in Example 1.

[0049] Figure 7 This is a schematic diagram of the W-zone expansion and localized needle-laying effect in Example 1.

[0050] Figure 8 This is a schematic diagram of the Y-region expansion and partial view in Example 1.

[0051] Figure 9 This is a combined image of the samples after needle extraction in the W and Y regions of Example 1.

[0052] Figure 10 This is a schematic diagram of the tissue structure in Example 1.

[0053] Figure 11 This is a schematic diagram of the complete floral pattern recurrence structure of Example 1.

[0054] Figure 12 This is the pattern pattern on the other side of the complete floral repeat of Example 1.

[0055] Figure 13 This is a complete floral pattern repeating grid effect diagram of Example 1.

[0056] Figure 14 This is a diagram showing the yarn color effect of Example 1.

[0057] Figure 15 This is a complete warp yarn ratio arrangement cycle diagram for Example 1. Detailed Implementation

[0058] Example 1 is the preferred embodiment of the present invention. The present invention will be further described below with reference to specific embodiments and comparative examples.

[0059] The textile raw materials used in the embodiments and comparative examples of this invention are all commercially available, and the specific information is as follows:

[0060] Wool yarn: Shandong Tianlu Textile Co., Ltd.;

[0061] Black polyester low-elasticity yarn: Jiangsu Hengli Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.

[0062] Example 1

[0063] A type of fabric made by converting a double-pattern fabric to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard knitting machine, consisting of warp and weft yarns. The warp yarns are composed of wool yarns with a metric count of 14Nm-YL1-04 (Dawn Yellow), 14Nm-YL4-03 (Red Fragrance), 14Nm-YL3-06 (Mocha Mousse Nut), and 14Nm-YL5-01 (Amber Brown) in a yarn count ratio of 256:560:2012:540. The weft yarns are composed of wool yarns with a metric count of 14Nm-YL1-04 (Dawn Yellow), 14Nm-YL4-03 (Red Fragrance), 14Nm-YL3-06 (Mocha Mousse Nut), and 14Nm-YL5-01 (Amber Brown) in a yarn count ratio of 256:560:2012:540. L4-03 is a reddish-brown color, made with 14Nm metric wool yarn. L3-06 is a mocha mousse nut color, made with 14Nm metric wool yarn. L5-01 is an amber brown color, made with 100D black polyester low-elastic yarn in a yarn count ratio of 1636:548:1732:416:361. One side of the fabric is a 2-up, 2-down right-hand twill weave with front warp and weft interlaced, while the other side is a 3-up, 1-down right-hand twill weave with back warp and weft interlaced. The warp density is 42 ends / inch, and the weft density is 85.3 ends / inch. The spacing between the double-layer seams is 0.152 inches.

[0064] The weaving method in this embodiment adopts the following steps:

[0065] (1) Warping: The 3368 warp yarns are divided into 6 warp strips and wound onto the same warp beam using the slit warping and pattern arrangement method.

[0066] (2) Threading the heddle: First, divide the heddle into two areas, W and Y, and then thread the warp yarns through the heddle in each area in a loop; the threading method is 21.3 teeth / 2 inches, 4 teeth / reed.

[0067] (3) Weft insertion: The wool yarn and 100D polyester low elastic yarn are alternately inserted using the rapier weft insertion method; the polyester low elastic yarn is inserted once every 12 weft wool yarns, and the polyester low elastic yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and inner warp once to form a double-layer joint point when it is inserted, and the wool yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and inner warp to form a double-sided fabric structure.

[0068] (4) Weaving: The rapier loom is used for weaving, with a width of 121 inches. The original 10080 main pattern needles are divided into W and Y zones with the center as the symmetrical point. In the W zone, the even-numbered needles are removed and the odd-numbered needles are retained. In the Y zone, the odd-numbered needles are removed and the even-numbered needles are retained. The W zone is for needles 1-5040 and the Y zone is for needles 5041-10080. The main pattern needles are distributed in a 1 solid 3 empty manner. The whole width is achieved by combining the W and Y zones.

[0069] Example 2

[0070] A type of fabric for converting double-pattern to single-pattern using an electronic jacquard knitting machine, composed of warp and weft yarns. The warp yarns are made of wool yarn metric count 14Nm-YL1-04 Dawn Yellow, wool yarn metric count 14Nm-YL4-03 Scarlet, wool yarn metric count 14Nm-YL3-06 Mocha Mousse Nut, and wool yarn metric count 14Nm-YL5-01 Amber Brown in a yarn count ratio of 255:561:0012:540. The weft yarns are made of wool yarn metric count 14Nm-YL1-04 Dawn Yellow, wool yarn metric count 14Nm... -YL4-03 Reddish-brown, metric count 14Nm wool yarn -YL3-06 Mocha Mousse Nut Color, metric count 14Nm wool yarn -YL5-01 Amber Brown and 100D Black Polyester Low Elastic Yarn in a yarn count ratio of 1635:549:1732:416:361; one side of the fabric is a 2-up 2-down right-hand twill weave with front warp and weft interlaced, and the other side is a 3-up 1-down right-hand twill weave with back warp and weft interlaced; the warp density is 41 ends / inch, and the weft density is 84 ends / inch; the spacing between the double-layer seams is 0.14 inches;

[0071] The weaving method in this embodiment adopts the following steps:

[0072] (1) Warping: The 3368 warp yarns are divided into 6 warp strips and wound onto the same warp beam using the slit warping and pattern arrangement method.

[0073] (2) Threading the heddle: First, divide the heddle into two areas, W and Y, and then thread the warp yarns through the heddle in each area in a loop; the threading method is 21.3 teeth / 2 inches, 4 teeth / reed.

[0074] (3) Weft insertion: The wool yarn and 100D polyester low elastic yarn are alternately inserted using the rapier weft insertion method; the polyester low elastic yarn is inserted once every 12 weft wool yarns, and the polyester low elastic yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and inner warp once to form a double-layer joint point when it is inserted, and the wool yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and inner warp to form a double-sided fabric structure.

[0075] (4) Weaving: The rapier loom is used for weaving, with a width of 121 inches. The original 10080 main pattern needles are divided into W and Y zones with the center as the symmetrical point. In the W zone, the even-numbered needles are removed and the odd-numbered needles are retained. In the Y zone, the odd-numbered needles are removed and the even-numbered needles are retained. The W zone is for needles 1-5040 and the Y zone is for needles 5041-10080. The main pattern needles are distributed in a 1 solid 3 empty manner. The whole width is achieved by combining the W and Y zones.

[0076] Example 3

[0077] A type of fabric made by converting a double-pattern fabric to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard knitting machine. The warp yarns are composed of wool yarns of metric count 14Nm-YL1-04 (Dawn Yellow), 14Nm-YL4-03 (Red Fragrance), 14Nm-YL3-06 (Mocha Mousse Nut), and 14Nm-YL5-01 (Amber Brown) in a yarn count ratio of 257:559:0012:540. The weft yarns are composed of wool yarns of metric count 14Nm-YL1-04 (Dawn Yellow), 14Nm-YL4-... 03. Reddish-brown, wool yarn metric count 14Nm-YL3-06. Mocha Mousse Nut color and wool yarn metric count 14Nm-YL5-01. Amber brown and 100D black polyester low-elastic yarn are composed of yarns in a yarn count ratio of 1637:547:1732:416:361. One side of the fabric is a 2-up 2-down right-hand twill weave with front warp and front weft interlaced, and the other side is a 3-up 1-down right-hand twill weave with back warp and back weft interlaced. The warp density is 43 ends / inch, and the weft density is 86 ends / inch. The spacing between the double-layer seams is 0.16 inches.

[0078] The weaving method in this embodiment adopts the following steps:

[0079] (1) Warping: The 3368 warp yarns are divided into 6 warp strips and wound onto the same warp beam using the slit warping and pattern arrangement method.

[0080] (2) Threading the heddle: First, divide the heddle into two areas, W and Y, and then thread the warp yarns through the heddle in each area in a loop; the threading method is 21.3 teeth / 2 inches, 4 teeth / reed.

[0081] (3) Weft insertion: The wool yarn and 100D polyester low elastic yarn are alternately inserted using the rapier weft insertion method; the polyester low elastic yarn is inserted once every 12 weft wool yarns, and the polyester low elastic yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and inner warp once to form a double-layer joint point when it is inserted, and the wool yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and inner warp to form a double-sided fabric structure.

[0082] (4) Weaving: The rapier loom is used for weaving, with a width of 121 inches. The original 10080 main pattern needles are divided into W and Y zones with the center as the symmetrical point. In the W zone, the even-numbered needles are removed and the odd-numbered needles are retained. In the Y zone, the odd-numbered needles are removed and the even-numbered needles are retained. The W zone is for needles 1-5040 and the Y zone is for needles 5041-10080. The main pattern needles are distributed in a 1 solid 3 empty manner. The whole width is achieved by combining the W and Y zones.

[0083] Comparative Example 1

[0084] The fabric modified from double-flower to single-flower using the electronic jacquard machine described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that the number of main pattern needles is allocated in step (4) according to a 1-solid-1-empty ratio.

[0085] Comparative Example 2

[0086] The weaving method for converting a double-flower pattern to a single-flower pattern on the electronic jacquard machine described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that 14Nm metric wool yarn is used to interweave and form double-layer joints.

[0087] Comparative Example 3

[0088] The weaving method for converting a double-flower pattern to a single-flower pattern on the electronic jacquard machine described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that the spacing between the double-layer joints is 0.1 inches.

[0089] Comparative Example 4

[0090] The weaving method for converting a double-pattern to a single-pattern design on the electronic jacquard machine described in this comparative example is the same as that in Example 1, except that the spacing between the double-layer joints is 0.2 inches.

[0091] Performance testing

[0092] The fabrics prepared in the examples and comparative examples were subjected to performance tests, and the specific test results are shown in Table 1.

[0093] The fracture strength was tested in accordance with GB / T3923.1-2013;

[0094] Tear strength was tested according to GB / T3917.2-2009;

[0095] Shrinkage rate was tested in accordance with GB / T8629-2017;

[0096] Pilling level is tested according to GB / T4802.1-2008;

[0097] Color fastness (rubbing) was tested in accordance with GB / T3920-2008;

[0098] Color fastness (washing with soap) was tested in accordance with GB / T3921-2008;

[0099] Weight deviation shall be tested in accordance with FZ / T20008-2015.

[0100] The feel of the fabric before and after washing was determined by touch by professionals: 10 inspectors touched and scored the softness of 100 meters of fabric before and after washing, and the final result was the average value.

[0101] Surface smoothness was assessed by touch by professionals: 10 professionals scored the surface smoothness of 100 meters of fabric by touch, and the final result was the average.

[0102] Surface smoothness was inspected by professional fabric inspectors using a touch test: for each example or comparative example, 10 professional inspectors inspected each example or comparative example separately. During the inspection, 100 meters of fabric from each example or comparative example were sampled and tested by touch and visual observation, and then scored. The scores from the 10 inspectors were used to score the surface smoothness by touch, and the final result was averaged and recorded in Table 1.

[0103] Inspector scoring criteria: 1 point is the worst, and 10 points is the best; from 1 to 10 points, the higher the score, the better the softness of the material.

[0104] A score of ≤6 indicates poor fabric flatness, which cannot be repaired and is therefore unsuitable for sale.

[0105] A score of 6 to 8 indicates significant flaws in flatness; however, with subsequent repairs, the price can be reduced for sale.

[0106] 8 points < score ≤ 9 points: The fabric has good flatness and a small number of minor flaws. After repair, the fabric can meet sales needs without price reduction or downgrading. (The flatness improves from 1 point to 10 points).

[0107] A score of 9 to 10 indicates good flatness, almost no flaws, and no need for repair, which meets the sales requirements.

[0108] Visual inspection is conducted to assess the appearance quality.

[0109] Table 1. Performance test results of the examples and comparative examples.

[0110] .

[0111] This invention successfully achieves the transformation of a pattern from "one-hanging-two" to "one-hanging-one" by combining W and Y zone needle-pulling technology with specific yarn combinations and weave design. This invention overcomes the limitations of fixed needle count and pattern cycle solely through technical modifications to existing equipment, significantly reducing the production cost of small-batch special products.

[0112] The fabric produced by this invention achieves a double-sided color-woven effect with a checkered pattern on one side and a jacquard pattern on the other. The double-layer polyester seams effectively enhance the fabric's structural stability, combining aesthetics and practicality. It can be adapted to the production of various product categories by adjusting the needle-pulling pattern, quickly responding to diverse and personalized market demands.

[0113] The fabric produced by this invention maintains a stable hand feel, does not pill, does not stiffen, and remains intact even after 10 washes. It exhibits low shrinkage and a smooth surface, with no protruding double-layer seams, exposed backing, or pattern deformation. Even after long-term use and repeated washing, it retains its excellent appearance and performance. When applied to scarves and shawls, the fabric is soft and fluffy yet retains a good crispness, providing a comfortable feel against the skin without causing itching. The patterns are clear and full, with rich layers on both sides, fully meeting the core requirements of scarves and shawls for decoration and wearing quality, while also possessing excellent aesthetics, practicality, and durability.

[0114] Comparative Example 1 altered the main weave stitch distribution, resulting in increased warp density and weight, making the fabric too thick and unsuitable for product requirements. Comparative Example 2 replaced 100D polyester low-elasticity yarn with 14Nm metric wool yarn, causing a loose, uneven double-layered fabric. Subsequent quality testing showed a decrease in warp / weft breaking strength and tear strength, as well as increased warp / weft shrinkage and weight deviation. Comparative Example 3 had a double-layer seam spacing of 0.1 inches, below the limit specified in this invention, resulting in a slightly stiffer, less fluffy, and softer fabric feel, increased shrinkage, severely deteriorated hand feel after washing, and uneven fabric texture. Comparative Example 4 had a double-layer seam spacing of 0.2 inches, exceeding the limit specified in this invention, leading to a decrease in physical strength, a worse hand feel after washing, a pilling grade drop to level 2, and insufficient seam fixation, resulting in insufficient double-layer structure tightness and localized looseness.

[0115] Figure 1-15 verifies the operability of the W / Y zone needle pulling, 1 solid 3 hollow needle distribution, polyester double-layer splicing, double-sided heterostructure interweaving, and specific color yarn ratio matching in the electronic jacquard machine double-pattern to single-pattern fabric weaving technology. At the same time, it intuitively shows the double-sided color-woven effect of the finished fabric with "one side checkered and one side jacquard".

[0116] The results of Examples 1-3 and Comparative Examples 1-4 verify the necessity of W and Y partition design, odd and even needle removal rules, and double-layer polyester joints in ensuring pattern integrity and improving the overall performance of the fabric, providing an effective solution for the low-cost production of special patterned fabrics in the textile industry.

[0117] The above description is merely a preferred embodiment of the present invention and is not intended to limit the invention in any other way. Any person skilled in the art may make changes or modifications to the above-disclosed technical content to create equivalent embodiments. However, any simple modifications, equivalent changes, and modifications made to the above embodiments based on the technical essence of the present invention without departing from the scope of the present invention shall still fall within the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims

1. A method for weaving a double-pattern to single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine, the double-pattern to single-pattern fabric being composed of warp and weft yarns, characterized in that... The warp yarns are made of wool yarns of various colors arranged in a circular pattern along the warp direction; the weft yarns are made of wool yarns and 90-110D polyester low-elasticity yarn; one side of the fabric is a 2-up 2-down right-hand twill weave with the outer warp and outer weft interwoven, presenting a checkered effect; the other side of the fabric is a 3-up 1-down right-hand twill weave with the inner warp and inner weft interwoven, presenting a floral effect; the polyester low-elasticity yarn serves as a double-layer joint; the adjacent spacing of the double-layer joint is 0.14-0.16 inches; The weaving method for converting double-pattern fabric to single-pattern fabric on an electronic jacquard machine includes the following steps: (1) Warping: Divide 3300-3400 warp yarns into 5-7 patterned warp strips and wind them onto the same warp beam; (2) Threading the heddle: First, divide the heddle into two areas, W and Y, and then thread the heddle through the warp yarns in each area in a loop; thread the heddle with 20-22 teeth / 2 inches, 3-5 teeth / reed. (3) Weft insertion: The wool yarn and 90-110D polyester low elastic yarn are alternately inserted using the rapier weft insertion method; the polyester low elastic yarn is inserted once every 12 wefts of wool yarn, and the polyester low elastic yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and the inner warp once to form a double-layer joint point. The wool yarn is interwoven with the outer warp and the inner warp to form a double-sided fabric structure. (4) Weaving: The weaving is done on a rapier loom. In the W zone, the even number of needles are removed and the odd number of needles are retained; in the Y zone, the odd number of needles are removed and the even number of needles are retained. The number of main pattern needles is distributed in a 1 solid 3 empty pattern. The whole width is achieved by combining the W zone and the Y zone. The warp threads of the fabric need to be changed according to the pattern of 1 solid needle and 3 empty needles. The solid needles in the W zone are placed on the odd-numbered needles starting with the 1st, 5th, 9th, 13th, and 17th needles, and so on until the 10077th solid needle. The empty needles are placed on the 2nd, 3rd, 4th, 6th, 7th, and 8th warp threads, and so on until the 10080th warp thread. The solid needles in the Y zone are placed on the even-numbered needles starting with the 2nd, 6th, 10th, 14th, and 18th warp threads, and so on until the 10078th solid needle. The empty needles are placed on the 1st, 3rd, 4th, 5th, 7th, 8th, and 9th warp threads, and so on until the 10080th warp thread. The odd and even number combinations in the W and Y zones achieve a one-to-one pattern for the entire fabric.

2. The weaving method for converting a double-pattern fabric to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine according to claim 1, characterized in that: The multi-colored wool yarns mentioned refer to 2-5 colors.

3. The weaving method for converting a double-pattern fabric to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine according to claim 1, characterized in that: The wool yarn in the multiple colors mentioned refers to four colors: dawn yellow, safflower, mocha mousse nut, and amber brown.

4. The weaving method for converting a double-pattern fabric to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine according to claim 3, characterized in that: The warp yarns are composed of wool yarns in dawn yellow, safflower, mocha mousse nut, and amber brown in a yarn count ratio of 255-257:559-561:2012:

540.

5. The weaving method for converting a double-pattern fabric to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine according to claim 1, characterized in that: The warp density is 41-43 threads / inch; the weft density is 84-86 threads / inch.

6. The weaving method for converting a double-pattern fabric to a single-pattern fabric using an electronic jacquard machine according to claim 1, characterized in that: The width of the rapier loom described in step (4) is ≥120 inches.

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