SAFETY DEVICE AND ITS APPLICATION PROCEDURE

DE602022033324T2Active Publication Date: 2026-04-01ZEDEL CORP
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Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
DE · DE
Patent Type
Patents
Current Assignee / Owner
Filing Date
2022-07-21
Publication Date
2026-04-01

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing belay devices face a trade-off between ease of use and safety, as they either require complex handling to manage rope friction or lack secure locking mechanisms, and their performance is often dependent on rope diameter, wear, dirt, or rotational speed, making them unreliable for various climbing conditions.

Method used

A belay device with a roller that rotates in two directions and moves within a housing, featuring a spring and rotation lock system to adjust friction based on rope tension, allowing secure locking without excessive friction when needed, and an additional speed lock for fall detection.

Benefits of technology

The device provides easy rope handling with low friction during normal use and secure locking during high tension, independent of rope conditions, enhancing safety and usability for climbers.

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Description

technical field

[0001] The invention relates to a belaying device and its method of use. State of the art

[0002] In mountaineering and other mountain activities, it is common to have a belay device through which a rope passes, connecting the climber and the belayer. Belay devices must address two distinct issues. The belay device must be easy to use; that is, it must be easy to pass the rope through the device to give slack to the climber or, conversely, to quickly take in the rope. Therefore, a rope path with low friction is necessary.

[0003] It is also essential that the belayer provides safety by offering adjustable rope braking during the climber's descent and / or an assisted locking mechanism. It is also beneficial for the belayer to be forgiving of incorrect handling and, above all, not overly complex to operate.

[0004] These two constraints are technically quite contradictory because, to provide adjustable braking or assisted rope locking, it is necessary to have an element in continuous contact with the rope and with sufficient friction to detect the rope's movement within the belay device. Therefore, a compromise must be made between safety and ease of use when designing the belay device.

[0005] For example, "tube-type" belay devices like those marketed by the plaintiff under the names "reverso®" or "verso" do not have assisted rope locking or fall detection. It is always necessary to hold the rope firmly.

[0006] There are also cam belay devices that have a rotating, movable cam. The cam pivots between a first position where the rope is pinched between the cam and a locking zone, and a second position where the distance between the cam and the locking zone is greater than the rope's diameter, allowing the rope to slide. The rope runs inside the belay device and slides along the cam, creating friction. The shape of the cam and the shape of the rope's path within the belay device determine the intensity of this friction. Feeding the rope to the climber requires a certain amount of dexterity to avoid rotating the cam and thus blocking the rope's movement. The intensity of the friction varies depending on the rope's diameter and its wear.

[0007] US2014 / 0262611 and EP 2 777 773 A2 illustrate a belay device configuration that modifies the cam device. The belay device is a cam belay device in which part of the cam is formed by a rotating roller. The roller is mounted to rotate in both directions and has a locking mechanism that engages when the roller's rotational speed exceeds a threshold speed. The angular velocity of the roller represents the linear speed of the rope's movement within the belay device. As in other cam devices, the rope slides along the cam and generates friction to actuate the cam as the tension in the rope increases. When the rope travels at too high a speed, the roller locks, which greatly increases the friction between the rope and the cam and tends to actuate the cam. The device then functions as a cam device.It appears that this configuration is difficult to implement because the coefficient of friction between the string and the cam varies significantly with the roller's rotational speed, and the roller's rotational speed depends on the friction with the string. In other words, the string's locking mechanism using the cam is highly dependent on the cam's shape, the string's diameter, the string's surface finish, and the roller's integration within the cam.

[0008] In another technical field, document FR2149047 describes a safety fall arrest device equipped with a rotating roller. The rope passes around the roller, and when the roller's rotation speed reaches a limit, the roller locks, thus stopping the rope's movement. A substantially equivalent principle is presented in document FR2513886.

[0009] Finally, there are roller belay devices that have a roller in contact with the rope. The roller is mounted to rotate in both directions so as not to hinder the user during rope feeding or rope absorption phases, depending on the climber's needs. The belay device marketed by Wild Country under the name Revo and described in document US2016 / 0310767 has a rope entry hole, a rope exit hole, and a roller that deflects the rope between the entry and exit holes. The deflection applied to the rope ensures significant contact between the rope and the roller. The roller is equipped with a locking mechanism that engages when the roller's angular velocity reaches a threshold value. However, in practice, controlling the descent is not easy because there is little friction between the rope and the components of the belay device.It also appears that the detection of descent speed is highly dependent on the amount of dirt present in the belay device, particularly on the pawls that lock the roller. Finally, the belay device is configured to lock when the threshold speed is reached, which corresponds to a fall. As with a tube-type belay device, there is no way to achieve a secure static lock, which can occur when the climber needs to rest or is working the route.

[0010] In another technical field, roller devices with a brake are also known for rescue operations. One example is US patent 7,658,264, which describes a roller descender with a roller that rotates in only one direction. The roller is configured to rotate when the rope is pulled to raise the injured person and to lock when the pull is released. When the pull is stopped, the brake engages to lock the rope. To lower the injured person, a knob is turned, which moves the brake and allows the rope to slide. The device is bulky and heavy because it is intended for rescue operations. It is not suitable for belaying a climber. In the same technical field, US patent 7419138 describes a rescue device with a roller that rotates in only one direction.The roller is mounted eccentrically to move closer to or further from a skid, so that the rope is wedged between the skid and the roller. When the rope is pulled to lift the injured person, the roller moves away from the skid and rotates. When the pull on the rope is stopped, the roller locks because rotation in the opposite direction is prevented, and the roller moves closer to the skid to secure the rope. When there is no load, the roller is in contact or nearly in contact with the skid. A handle is used to move the roller and adjust the rope slippage between the roller and the ascender. Another example is document US10828516, which describes a roller with an ascender mounted opposite a skid. Here again, the roller rotates only in one direction, and the handle moves the ascender to adjust the rope slippage between the ascender and the skid. Description of the invention

[0011] One object of the invention is to overcome these disadvantages, and more particularly to provide a belaying device which is capable of locking the rope more securely without generating too much friction with the rope when it is necessary to take up rope from the climber or to provide rope to the climber.

[0012] This result is to be achieved by means of a belaying device according to claim 1, which comprises: a housing intended to receive a rope loop, the housing defining an attachment point intended to attach the belay device to an anchor point and at least one opening for the passage of the strands of the rope loop, a pad delimiting at least one opening; a roller disposed in the housing and mounted to rotate in two directions of rotation, the roller also being mounted to move freely in the housing, in a first direction of movement, between a first roller position, a second roller position and a third roller position, the second roller position being closer to the opening than the first roller position, the third roller position being closer to the pad than the second roller position, the roller being intended to be in contact with the rope loop over at least 40% of its perimeter,a rotation lock configured to allow rotation of the roller in both directions or to block at least one direction of rotation of the roller depending on the position of the roller inside the housing, the rotation lock being configured to allow rotation of the roller in both opposite directions when the roller is in the first roller position and to block at least one direction of rotation of the roller when the roller is in the second roller position and when the roller is in the third roller position, a first spring having a first end connected to the housing and a second end connected to the roller to force the roller towards the first roller position, the first spring transforming a force from the rope loop on the roller into a position of the roller in the housing, a handle mounted movable between a first handle position and a second handle position, , in which, in the third roller position, the handle is functionally linked to the housing and the roller such that a force applied to the handle to move the handle generates a force on the roller in the direction of the second roller position.

[0013] According to one aspect of the invention, the roller is provided with a toothed wheel and a hook is mounted on the housing, the toothed wheel being in contact with the hook when the roller is in the second roller position and the toothed wheel being at a distance from the hook when the roller is in the first roller position, the hook and the toothed wheel forming the rotation blocker.

[0014] Preferably, the hook is mounted to move relative to the housing between a first hook position and a second hook position. When the hook is in the first hook position and the roller is in the second roller position, the toothed wheel is in contact with the hook. When the hook is in the second hook position and the roller is in the third roller position, the toothed wheel is in contact with the hook.

[0015] According to another aspect, a hook spring applies a force to the hook, the hook spring placing the hook in the first hook position in the absence of external stress.

[0016] Advantageously, the handle is configured to move the roller to the second roller position so that actuation of the handle does not permit rotation of the roller in either direction of rotation.

[0017] IlIt is particularly advantageous to provide that in the third roller position, the pad partially obstructs a groove in the roller.

[0018] In an advantageous configuration, an additional rotation blocker is configured to block the rotation of the roller when its rotational speed reaches a threshold value.

[0019] In a preferred development, the roller rotates around a first rotation shaft. The first spring is configured to adjust the clearance of the rotation shaft perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the roller, the first spring being configured to apply a force on the rotation shaft and move the axis of rotation and the roller towards the first roller position.

[0020] The invention also relates to a method for using a belaying device that is easier to use than prior art methods. This is to be achieved by means of a method for using a belaying device comprising the following steps: provide a belay device according to any of the previous configurations, install a rope loop in the belay device, the rope loop going around the roller, the tension in the rope being less than a first threshold value, run the rope in one direction and then in the opposite direction to cause the roller to rotate in one direction of rotation and then in the other direction of rotation; increase the tension in the rope until the roller reaches the second roller position, the roller blocking at least one direction of rotation, increase the tension in the rope again until the rope is blocked. Description of the drawings

[0021] Other advantages and features will become clearer from the following description of particular embodiments and implementations of the invention, given by way of non-limiting examples and shown in the accompanying drawings, in which: there figure 1 illustrates, schematically, a first embodiment of a belaying device according to the invention without a cover and in a position allowing the rope to slide and the roller to rotate in two opposite directions; figure 2 illustrates, schematically, the belaying system of the figure 1 in a position allowing the roller to rotate in only one direction and the rope to slide; the figure 3 illustrates, schematically, the belaying system of the figure 1 in a position designed to lock the rope and allowing the roller to rotate in only one direction; the figure 4 illustrates, schematically, in cross-section, the belaying device shown in the figure 1 ; there figure 5 schematically illustrates, in cross-section, the belaying device shown in the figure 1 with a detector of the roller's rotational speed in the locked position; the figure 6 schematically illustrates an exploded view of the belaying device shown in the illustration. figure 1 ; there figure 7 schematically illustrates the belaying device shown in the figure 1 with the cover closing the belaying device; the figure 8 This schematically illustrates another embodiment of a belay device with the cover closing the belay device; figure 9 schematically illustrates an exploded view of the belaying device shown in the illustration. figure 8 ; there Figure 10 schematically illustrates the belaying device shown in the figure 8 without a cover and in a position allowing the rope to slide and the roller to rotate in two opposite directions; the figure 11schematically illustrates the belaying device of the Figure 10 in a position allowing the rope to slide and the roller to lock in at least one direction; the figure 12 schematically illustrates the belaying device of the Figure 10 in a position designed to lock the rope and possibly allowing the roller to rotate in only one direction; the figure 13 schematically illustrates the support and roller of the belay device shown in the illustration. Figure 10 without a cover and in a position allowing the roller to rotate in two opposite directions; the figure 14 schematically illustrates the support and roller of the belay device shown in the illustration. Figure 10 without a cover and in a position blocking at least one direction of rotation of the roller by pivoting the roller; the figure 15 schematically illustrates an exploded view of the support and roller of the belay device shown in the diagram. figures 10 to 14 ; there figure 16schematically illustrates an exploded view of another embodiment of the support and roller of the belaying device illustrated in the Figure 10 ; there figure 17 schematically illustrates, in cross-section, the support and roller of the belaying device shown in the illustration. figure 13 the rotating shaft having a maximum footprint; the figure 18 schematically illustrates, in cross-section, the support and roller of the belaying device shown in the illustration. figure 16 the rotation shaft having a minimal footprint. Detailed description

[0022] THE figures 1 to 18These diagrams illustrate different ways of implementing a belay device. Preferably, the belay device is a self-locking belay device, meaning it is configured to lock the rope when the tension in the rope inside the belay device exceeds a limit value. Once the rope is locked, the user must perform a specific action to allow the rope to slide within the belay device. When the user stops this action, the belay device locks the rope again if the tension is above the limit value.

[0023] The belay device has a housing designed to receive a rope loop. The housing is preferably hinged to allow easy insertion of the belay loop. The housing defines at least one opening to allow the rope loop strands to pass through. In the illustrated embodiments, the housing defines a single opening, but it is also possible for the housing to define two openings.

[0024] In a particular embodiment, the housing is partly formed by a first flange 1. The first flange 1 is preferably substantially flat. The housing, and preferably the first flange 1, defines or has an attachment point 2 intended for attaching the belay device to an anchor point. The anchor point may be the user's harness, but it is possible to use another element to form the anchor point.

[0025] In the illustrated embodiments, the attachment point 2 is formed by a hole that is a through hole in the first flange 1. A carabiner or other type of connector passes through the hole to attach the belay device to the user. The attachment point 2 can also be formed by a connector of the belay device, for example, a carabiner.

[0026] A pad 3, forming a first locking zone, is present in the housing and preferentially delimits at least one opening of the housing. In the illustrated embodiments, the pad 3 extends outward from a first face 1a of the first flange 1, along a first direction. This first direction is perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the first face 1a to form a projecting zone. The pad 3 is intended to lock the rope in the belay device. According to the preferred embodiments, the pad 3 is formed with the remainder of the first flange 1, or the pad 3 is fixed to the first flange 1. The pad 3 can be fixed to the first flange 1 by means of a nut 3a.

[0027] Preferably, the housing has a second flange 4 that is movable and / or removable relative to the first flange 1, which facilitates rope insertion. The second flange 4 closes the space intended to receive the rope and can partially delimit the opening.

[0028] The belay device has a roller 5 with two distinct movements within the housing. On the one hand, the roller 5 is mounted freely, meaning it rotates in two opposite directions. The roller 5 is mounted to rotate around a first rotation shaft 6, which defines a first axis of rotation. The first axis of rotation of the roller 5 passes through its center. When the rope loop is installed in the belay device, the rope loop passes around the roller 5 so that the rope is in contact with the groove of the roller 5. The rope passes around the roller 5, making contact with it over a distance equal to at least one-quarter of the perimeter, preferably at least one-third of the perimeter, and even more preferably at least 40% or at least half of the perimeter. IlIt is advantageous that the roller 5 has a diameter which is greater than or equal to half the distance separating the two delimiters 7, preferably at least equal to 70% of the distance separating the two delimiters 7 and even more preferably greater than the distance separating the two delimiters 7.

[0029] Il It is particularly advantageous to have a roller 5 that is movable in both opposite directions of rotation because this makes it easier to move the rope inside the belay device during both phases of rope movement, to give rope to the climber or on the contrary to take rope back from him with a low friction force.

[0030] On the other hand, the roller 5 is fixed to the housing and is mounted to move within the housing to approach or move away from the opening and / or the pad 3. In other words, the first rotation shaft 6 is mounted to move within the housing to approach or move away from the opening. The rotation axis of the roller 5 moves relative to the first flange 1.

[0031] The opening of the casing is delimited by two delimiters 7, one of which is preferentially formed by the pad 3. The rope loop exits the belay device by taking support on the two delimiters 7 and going around the roller 5.

[0032] Roller 5 is mounted to move within the housing in addition to its rotation. Roller 5 is mounted to move between several positions. In one direction of movement, roller 5 moves between a first roller position, a second roller position, and a third roller position. The second roller position is located between the first and third roller positions. The second roller position is closer to the opening than the first roller position and possibly closer to pad 3 than the first roller position. The third roller position is closer to pad 3 than the second roller position and possibly closer to the opening than the second roller position.

[0033] The belay device has a rotation lock that is configured to allow rotation of the roller 5 in both directions or to block at least one direction of rotation, depending on the position of the roller 5 inside the housing. In one scenario, the rotation lock is configured to allow rotation in both directions or to allow rotation in only one direction, depending on the position of the roller 5 inside the housing. In another scenario, the rotation lock is configured to allow rotation in both directions or to block rotation in both directions, depending on the position of the roller 5 inside the housing. The rotation lock is attached to the housing.

[0034] The rotation lock is configured to allow rotation of roller 5 in both opposite directions when roller 5 is in the first roller 5 position. The rotation lock is configured to allow rotation of the roller in only one direction or to prevent rotation when roller 5 is in the second roller 5 position. The rotation lock is configured to allow rotation of the roller in only one direction or to prevent rotation when roller 5 is in the third roller 5 position.

[0035] The roller rotation lock can be formed by any suitable means. Depending on the configuration, the rotation lock can act by blocking roller 5 and / or by blocking the rotation shaft 6 of roller 5. The rotation lock has a stop fixed to the housing to prevent the rotation of roller 5. Roller 5 and / or the first rotation shaft 6 bear against the stop when roller 5 is in its second and third stop positions. Depending on the configuration, the stop directly prevents the rotation of the roller or the rotation of the first rotation shaft. The stop can be fixed or not mounted relative to the housing.

[0036] The belay device has a first spring 8 that connects the roller 5 and the casing; preferably, the first spring 8 connects the roller 5 and the first flange 1. The first spring 8 is formed by one or more elastically deformable elements. The first spring 8 applies force to the roller 5 so as to place the roller 5 in its first roller position in the absence of external force. The first spring 8 is configured to resist the movement of the roller 5 from its first roller position to its second or third roller position. The first spring 8 transforms a predefined force applied to the roller 5 in the direction of the opening into a predefined position within the casing. The first spring 8 transforms tension in the rope, and therefore a force applied to the roller 5, into a position of the roller inside the casing.

[0037] The first spring 8 and the rotation lock together form a locking system configured to prevent the rotation of the roller 5 based on the force applied to it in the direction of the opening. The tension in the rope inside the belay device translates into a force applied to the roller 5 by the rope. Depending on the value of the force applied by the rope to the roller, the roller 5 moves, allowing the roller to rotate in both directions or blocking at least one direction of rotation. The first spring 8, in conjunction with the rotation lock, allows the behavior of the roller 5 to be modified according to its position within the casing and therefore according to the force applied to it.

[0038] As the force applied to roller 5 increases and opposes the force applied by the first spring 8, roller 5 moves from its first position to its second position and then to its third position. When roller 5 is subjected to a force below a first threshold value, it is in its first position. When the force applied to roller 5 increases and reaches the first threshold value, roller 5 moves to its second position. If the force increases further, roller 5 moves to its third position.

[0039] Preferably, the first spring 8 defines a mechanical connection between the roller 5 and the first flange 1. The first spring 8 allows the first threshold value of the force to be defined. The first spring 8 can directly connect the first flange 1 and the roller 5, or preferably its rotating shaft 6. However, it is also possible to provide one or more intermediate elements in the mechanical connection between the roller 5 and the housing or the first flange 1. For example, the first spring 8 is fixed on one side to the first flange 1 and on the other side to an intermediate element itself connected to the roller 5, or the first spring 8 is fixed on one side to the roller 5 and on the other side to an intermediate element fixed to the first flange 1. The first spring 8 can be formed by any suitable means, for example, a torsional, compressional, extensional, or flexural spring. The first spring 8 can be a helical spring or a leaf spring.

[0040] When roller 5 is in its first position, corresponding to low effort and therefore low tension on the rope, roller 5 can rotate in both directions. This configuration allows the rope to move easily in both directions. As the tension in the rope increases, roller 5 moves closer to the opening until it reaches its second position. Once the roller reaches this second position, it can no longer rotate in both directions. Roller 5 can only rotate in one direction or cannot rotate at all. Locking the roller in at least one direction of rotation increases the friction between the rope and roller 5. This increased friction makes roller 5 more sensitive to the rope's behavior.Small variations in tension in the rope are better felt by roller 5, which facilitates the locking of the rope by the belay device.

[0041] The axis of rotation, and more generally the roller 5, moves relative to the first flange 1 under the action of a force applied by the rope on the roller 5. The greater the force in the rope, the greater the force applied to the roller 5, which pulls the roller towards the opening and towards the slide. The movement of the roller 5 tends to reduce the space available for the passage of a rope strand.

[0042] Once the second roller position is reached, roller 5 may only rotate in one direction, corresponding to rope absorption from the climber, or it may not rotate at all. Roller 5 can rotate to allow easy rope absorption from the climber, thus improving safety. Conversely, the roller cannot rotate in the direction that provides rope to the climber, which keeps the rope locked and facilitates rope locking or even self-locking.

[0043] The third roller position is closer to the roller 3 than the second roller position. As the roller 5 moves closer to the roller 3, the space available for the rope strand attached to the climber to move through decreases, increasing friction until the rope jams. This reduction in available space increases friction between the rope and the roller 5, making the roller more sensitive to tension in the rope.

[0044] To facilitate rope movement within the belay device, it is preferable for the rope to come into contact with a minimal number of components. For example, the rope should only come into contact with the roller 5 and the two limiters 7, which form the two points of contact for the rope's exit. Preferably, the belay device should not have a locking cam in continuous contact with the rope. Such a locking cam introduces significant friction on the rope, complicating the use of the belay device.

[0045] The force applied to roller 5 displaces roller 5 within the housing and changes its behavior. The position of roller 5 within the housing is defined by the force applied to it. Locking roller 5 in a specific direction of rotation ensures sufficient friction between roller 5 and the rope to lock the rope. The belay device has a rope grab 10, which is mounted flexibly within the housing. Rope grab 10 moves relative to the pad 3, approaching or moving away from the pad. In one position, rope grab 10 is close enough to the pad 3 to lock the rope between the pad 3 and rope grab 10. Rope grab 10 is functionally linked to roller 5, so that its position follows the position of roller 5, and vice versa between the second and third roller positions.

[0046] Various configurations of rope grabs 10 are possible. In the implementation of the figures 1 to 7 The roller 5 forms the rope blocker 10. In the embodiment of the figures 8 to 18 The rope stopper 10 is formed by an additional pad. In the second roller position, the roller 5 reaches a stop which mechanically links the rope stopper 10 and the roller such that the movement of the roller 5 between the second roller position and the third roller position causes a movement of the rope stopper 10. Preferably, when the roller 5 is between the second roller position and the third roller position, the position of the roller and the position of the rope stopper are linked bijectively.

[0047] In the particular case illustrated in figures 8 to 18The roller 5 moves until it comes into contact with the rope blocker 10. When the roller 5 comes to rest on the rope blocker 10, the roller 5 is in the second roller position. The movement of the roller 5 from the second roller position to the third roller position causes the rope blocker 10 to move towards the slide 3 to reduce the distance between the slide 3 and the rope blocker 10 until the rope is blocked.

[0048] The belay device includes a handle 9 which is functionally connected to the roller 5 and the rope grab 10. The handle 9 can be connected directly to the rope grab 10 or to the roller 5. The handle 9 is movable between a first handle position and a second handle position. When the roller 5 is in the third roller position, which corresponds to a minimum distance between the rope grab 10 and the shoe 3, the rotation of the handle 9 causes the rope grab 10 to move away from the shoe 3.

[0049] The mechanical connection between handle 9 and roller 5 means that the force applied to handle 9 to rotate it in the first direction of rotation generates a force on roller 5, moving it from the third roller position to the second roller position. This force on handle 9 moves rope stopper 10 away from the slider 3. The rope can then slide between rope stopper 10 and slider 3.

[0050] In the examples illustrated in figures 9 to 18 The handle 9 has a mechanical linkage with the first flange 1 and with the rope grab 10 to move the rope grab 10 relative to the pad 3. Depending on the embodiment, the handle 9 can be mounted on the first flange 1, on the rope grab 10, or on an intermediate element connected to the first flange 1 and the rope grab 10, or on another element of the housing. Numerous configurations are possible.

[0051] It is particularly advantageous that the actuation of the handle 9 does not allow the roller 5 to be moved beyond the second roller position in a direction opposite to the first direction of movement in order to prevent the roller 5 from reaching the first roller position and allows the free rotation of the roller 5.

[0052] As mentioned above, the belay device allows the roller 5 to rotate in two directions depending on its position relative to the first flange 1, or in only one direction, or it may not rotate at all. The position of the roller 5 relative to the first flange 1 is determined by the force applied to the roller 5. Such a configuration is absent from the prior art. This configuration allows the rope to lock independently of its speed and direction of travel.

[0053] Document US2014 / 0262611 does not disclose a relationship between rope tension and the locking of roller 5, nor a relationship between the force applied to roller 5, and therefore to the cam, and the locking of roller 5. According to document US2014 / 0262611, rotation or locking of the cam only occurs when the rope runs too fast in the configuration corresponding to a fall. A virtually identical observation can be made regarding the belay device marketed under the name Revo by Wild Country. The rope locking is linked to the rotation speed of roller 5, independently of the tension present on the rope.

[0054] Advantageously, to improve fall detection, the belay device can be equipped with an additional rotation lock configured to stop the roller's rotation when its speed reaches a threshold. This additional lock is solely dependent on the rotation speed and is independent of the force applied to the roller.

[0055] Several methods of implementation are possible to achieve such a result. In one particular embodiment illustrated in figures 1 to 7 The rope stopper 10 is formed by the roller 5. The first roller position is illustrated in the figure 1As mentioned above, with low tension in the rope, roller 5 can rotate in both directions, facilitating rope movement in both directions. When roller 5 is subjected to a greater force corresponding to the first threshold value, roller 5 moves and reaches the second roller position illustrated in the diagram. figure 2 Roller 5 is only allowed to rotate in one direction. Roller 5 can rotate to absorb rope coming from the climber.

[0056] When roller 5 is subjected to an even greater force than the first threshold value, roller 5 reaches the third roller 5 position which is even closer to the pad 3. In the third roller position, roller 5 and pad 3 are able to lock a rope which is installed in the belay device.

[0057] In an advantageous embodiment, for example that illustrated in Figures 4 and 5The roller 5 also has a speed-sensing device for its rotation, which preferably forms an additional rotation lock. This sensor is configured to lock the rotation of the roller 5 when its rotation speed reaches a threshold. The additional rotation lock may have a movable latch 11 and a projecting pin 12. The latch 11 is mounted to move between a position where the latch 11 is folded down, allowing the rotation of the roller 5, and a position where the latch 11 is extended, which blocks the rotation of the roller 5. The latch 11 may be associated with a latch spring 11a, which applies pressure to the latch 11 in the folded-down position and defines the force to be overcome, i.e., the minimum rotational speed, to extend the latch 11. Once the latch 11 is extended, it comes into contact with the pin 12, which blocks the roller 5.The latch 11 can bear against the first rotation shaft 6 in the extended position to block the rotation of the roller 5, the first rotation shaft 6 being fixedly mounted. The . figure 4 illustrates the latch 11 in the folded-down position while the figure 5 Figure 11 illustrates the latch 11 in the extended position. The latch 11 is advantageously mounted to rotate freely around a latch shaft 11b, for example, formed by a screw. Other embodiments of the additional rotation stop are possible. The latch 11 moves from the folded position to the extended position when the rotational speed reaches a threshold speed, which corresponds to a threshold centrifugal force. It is advantageous to use a spring that defines the value of the threshold force and therefore the threshold rotational speed. The spring opposes the centrifugal force.

[0058] Using an additional rotation stopper is advantageous for detecting rapid rope movement and reducing the risk of injury.

[0059] Advantageously, in the embodiment illustrated in figures 1 to 7 The roller 5 rotates around the first rotating shaft 6, and the first spring 8 is configured to apply a force to the first rotating shaft 6, moving both the first rotating shaft 6 and the roller 5 towards the first roller position. When no force is applied, the first spring 8 exerts a force on the first rotating shaft 6 to keep the roller 5 in the first roller position.

[0060] Preferably, and as illustrated in the figure 6The first rotating shaft 6 is fixed to a support 13, which is movable relative to the first flange 1. The first spring 8 is configured to apply a force to the support 13 to move the roller 5 towards its first roller position. In the particular example shown, the support 13 is movable for rotation, but another movement is possible. In the illustrated configuration, the support 13 is movable for rotation about a rotating shaft 14 fixed to the first flange 1. The first spring 8 is fixed on one side to the first flange 1 and on the other side to the support 13, and it applies a force to the support 13 to place the roller 5 in its first roller position.

[0061] Advantageously, the support 13 is separated from the roller 5 by the first flange 1. The first rotating shaft 6 is fixed to the support 13 and passes through a slot 1c in the first flange 1. Preferably, the slot 1c is configured so that the first rotating shaft 6 bears against one end of the slot 1c when the roller 5 is in its first roller position, and the first rotating shaft 6 bears against the opposite end of the slot 1c when the roller 5 is in its third roller position. It is also preferable that the slot 1c always be completely covered by the roller 5.

[0062] The support rotation shaft 14 can also form the axis of rotation of the second flange 4 relative to the first flange 1. The support rotation shaft 14 can also be used to fix a cover 15 on the second face 1b of the first flange 1 to protect the support 13.

[0063] The support rotation shaft 14 can also serve as a rotation shaft for an additional roller forming the delimiter 7 opposite the pad 3. The support rotation shaft 14 can cooperate with a nut 14a to fix the support rotation shaft 14 on the first flange 1.

[0064] It is also advantageous for the roller 5 to be mounted on a bearing 16, for example a ball bearing or a bushing, to facilitate the rotation of the roller 5 around the first rotating shaft 6. In the embodiment illustrated in the figure 6The handle 9 is mounted to rotate around a third rotation shaft 17 fixed to the first flange 1. The handle 9 is fixed to the first flange 1 by means of a nut 18. The handle 9 slides along a ramp of the support 13 to move the support 13 and therefore the roller 5. The actuation of the handle 9 acts on the distance between the roller 5 and the pad 3 without acting on the locking of the roller 5 in at least one of its two directions of rotation.

[0065] In an advantageous embodiment illustrated on the figures 1 to 7The roller 5 is equipped with a toothed wheel 19, and a hook 20 is mounted on the first flange 1. The toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in its second roller position. The toothed wheel 19 is not in contact with the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in its first roller position. In the illustrated embodiment, contact between the hook 20 and the toothed wheel 19 allows the roller 5 to rotate only in one direction. Failure to make contact between the toothed wheel 19 and the hook 20 allows the roller 5 to rotate in both directions. By modifying the shape of the teeth of the toothed wheel 19 and the shape of the hook 20, it is possible to prevent the roller 5 from rotating in both directions. The use of a toothed wheel 19 combined with a hook 20 is particularly advantageous because its manufacture is simple and its operation is robust.

[0066] To form the rotation lock, many other configurations are possible that allow the roller 5 to rotate in both directions, or to block at least one direction of rotation depending on the position of the roller 5. It is possible to have a roller 5 mounted to rotate around the first rotation shaft 6 only in the first direction of rotation, and to have the first rotation shaft 6 mounted to rotate in the second direction or in both directions of rotation. The movement of the roller 5 corresponds to a movement of the first rotation shaft 6. When the roller 5 reaches its second position, the first rotation shaft 6 is locked, thus allowing the roller 5 to rotate only in the first direction. For example, if the first rotation shaft 6 is mounted on the support 13 as illustrated in the figure 5It is possible to use a first rotating shaft 6 with a non-circular cross-section and a slot 1c that prevents the rotation of the first rotating shaft 6 when the second roller position is reached. The slot 1c can be replaced by a hook that grips the first rotating shaft 6.

[0067] When the roller 5 is fitted with a toothed wheel 19, it is particularly advantageous to have a hook 20 mounted on the first flange 1, and preferably a movable hook 20 to follow the movement of the roller 5 beyond the second roller position. The toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in the second roller position and up to the third roller position. The toothed wheel 19 is separated from the hook 20 when the roller 5 is in the first roller position. A stop 21 prevents the hook 20 from remaining in contact with the toothed wheel 19 beyond the second roller position. The contact between the hook 20 and the toothed wheel 19 allows the roller 5 to rotate only in one direction. In the illustrated example, the hook 20 forms a through hole and the stop 21 passes through the through hole to define the range of movement of the hook 20. Other stop configurations are possible.Preferably, hook 20 is mounted for rotation.

[0068] Preferably, the hook 20 is mounted to move relative to the first flange 1 between a first hook position and a second hook position. When the hook 20 is in the first hook position and the roller 5 is in the second roller position, the toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20. When the hook 20 is in the second hook position and the roller 5 is in the third roller position, the toothed wheel 19 is in contact with the hook 20. The movement of the roller 5 between the second and third roller positions results in a movement of the hook 20, which remains in contact with the toothed wheel 19 to prevent rotation of the roller 5 in at least one of the two directions of rotation. Preferably, actuation of the handle 9 does not change the contact between the hook 20 and the toothed wheel 19.

[0069] It is advantageous to provide a spring 22, called a hook spring, which applies force to the hook 20. The hook spring 22 places the hook 20 in the first hooked position in the absence of external stress. In the embodiment illustrated in figures 1 to 7 and more specifically illustrated in the figure 6 It can be observed that the housing is formed by a first flange 1 on which a chassis 23 is mounted. The chassis 23 separates the first flange 1 and the second flange 4 and partially delimits the housing. The latch 11 is mounted to rotate around a latch rotation shaft 11b fixed to roller 5.

[0070] The method of implementation illustrated in Figures 1 to 7 has a simple movement of the roller 5 which is mounted for simple rotation around the shaft 14. The embodiment of the figures 8 to 15presents an identical or substantially identical operation with a complex movement of the roller 5 which moves relative to the support 13 and with the support 13 which moves relative to the first flange 1.

[0071] THE figures 8 to 15 illustrate a roller 5 which gets stuck against the rope blocker 10 but the use of a hook or equivalent means is possible to block the rotation of the roller 5.

[0072] There figure 15 illustrates an embodiment in which the roller 5 is mounted to rotate about a first rotation shaft 6. The first rotation shaft 6 is mounted to rotate about a second rotation shaft which is here formed by the rotation shaft of the support 14. The first rotation shaft 6 is mounted to move between the first roller position and the second roller position.

[0073] The support 13, which has the rope blocker 10, is mounted to rotate around the rotation shaft of the support 14. The first rotation shaft 6 is connected to the support 13 by means of a spring 8. The spring 8 is connected on one side to the support 13 and on the other side to the first rotation shaft 6. The spring 8 is configured to apply a force acting on the first rotation shaft 6 and thus the roller 5 towards the first roller position 5.

[0074] As illustrated in Figures 10 and 11 ,The force applied to roller 5 in the direction of opening, as can be achieved by a tightening rope loop, results in a displacement of roller 5 within the housing as well as a displacement of roller 5 relative to support 13. Roller 5 moves until it comes to rest against rope stopper 10. As the force on roller 5 increases, support 13 pivots, which has the effect of bringing rope stopper 10 closer to the pad 3 to lock the rope. Preferably, spring 8 has a lower stiffness than spring 26 so that roller 5 moves more than support 13 when roller 5 is subjected to a force in the direction of opening. Depending on the desired movements of support 13 and roller 5, the stiffness values ​​and arrangements of springs 8 and 26 can be adjusted. It is also possible to foresee that the rotation shaft of roller 5 is different from the rotation shaft of support 13.

[0075] In the embodiment illustrated in the figure 15 The support 13 has a protruding pin 28 that fits into the first rotation shaft 6. The spring 8 bears against the pin 28. The spring 8 applies a force intended to press the first rotation shaft 6 against a stop 29 on the support 13 to define the first position of the roller. This embodiment is simple to implement and effective for defining the threshold tension that locks the roller and rotates the support 13 to adjust the friction on the rope using the rope stopper.

[0076] In another embodiment, the movement of the roller 5 between the first roller position and the second roller position is achieved by means of a first variable-dimension rotary shaft 6 or a rotary shaft mounted movable relative to the support 13. An example of an embodiment of a variable-dimension rotary shaft is illustrated in figures 16 to 18 The first rotation shaft 6 has a main portion 6a and a secondary portion 6b. The secondary portion 6b is mounted to move relative to the main portion 6a between a first position and a second position. In the first position illustrated in the figure 17 The secondary portion 6b extends a first distance projecting from the main portion 6a. The first rotation shaft 6 has a first overall dimension that corresponds approximately to a first apparent diameter. In the second position illustrated in the figure 18The secondary portion 6b extends a second distance beyond the main portion 6a. This second distance is less than the first distance, so the first rotation shaft 6 has a second overall dimension that corresponds approximately to a second apparent diameter. Both the second overall dimension and the second apparent diameter are smaller than the first overall dimension and the first apparent diameter. figure 18 illustrates a configuration where the secondary portion 6b is no longer protruding from the main portion, the bulk is minimal.

[0077] Spring 8 exerts force on the secondary portion 6b towards the first roller position, maximizing the obstruction of the first rotating shaft 6. As the force applied to roller 5 increases, spring 8 deforms and reduces the obstruction of the first rotating shaft 6. With the reduction in the obstruction of the first rotating shaft 6, roller 5 moves until it reaches the second roller position. In the second roller position, roller 5, which could previously rotate in both directions, becomes limited to rotating in only one direction.

[0078] To lock the roller 5 according to its position in the housing, it is possible to designate that a portion of the first rotation shaft 6 has at least one shaft tooth 24 that cooperates with a roller tooth. The roller 5 has one or more roller teeth 25. In the first position of roller 5, at least one shaft tooth 24 is not in contact with the roller teeth 25 because the secondary portion 6b presses against roller 5 to prevent contact between teeth 24 and 25. In the second position of roller 5, the secondary portion 6b is retracted, and at least one roller tooth 25 comes into contact with the shaft tooth 24. The orientation of the teeth, for example in a triangle, defines the permitted and prohibited directions of rotation when the roller is designed to rotate in only one direction in the second roller position.

[0079] As mentioned above, it is possible to provide a roller 5 mounted for rotation around the first rotational shaft 6 in only one direction. The first rotational shaft 6 is mounted to rotate freely in such a way as to allow the roller 5 to rotate in both directions. When the roller 5 reaches the second roller position, the secondary portion 6b blocks rotation around the first rotational shaft 6, and the roller 5 can then only rotate in one direction. The at least one elastic element 8 mounted in the first rotational shaft defines the first threshold force value.

[0080] The first rotating shaft 6 can be mounted on a support 13 identical or substantially identical to that of the figure 6The support 13 is connected to the first flange 1 by a second spring 26. The second spring 26 is chosen with a stiffness greater than that of the first spring 8 so that the roller 5 only allows rotation in one direction of rotation before locking the rope against the first locking zone 3. The assembly of the handle 9 can be identical to that indicated previously.

[0081] Preferably, the movement of roller 5 relative to the deformable rotating shaft is stopped by means of a roller stop. When the roller stop comes into contact with roller 5, it generates friction, which releases the stresses on the tooth configuration, resulting in rotation in only one direction. In the particular embodiment illustrated in figures 8 to 18 The rope stopper 10 forms the roller stop. In the embodiment illustrated in figures 8 to 18 , the rope blocker 10 is different from the roller 5.

[0082] As with the previous embodiments, the roller 5 is mounted to move between a first roller position where rotation in both directions is permitted and a second roller position where rotation is blocked in at least one direction. In the second and third roller positions, the roller 5 cannot rotate in the direction that provides rope to the climber. The friction with the rope is increased compared to a rotating roller, which facilitates the transmission of the rope's force to the roller 5 and thus to the rope clamp 10, thereby locking the rope against the pad 3.

[0083] The roller 5 and the rope stopper 10 are mounted on the support 13. The support 13 is movable within the housing, preferably movable relative to the first flange 1. Preferably, the rope stopper 10 is fixedly mounted on the support 13. Preferably, the support 13 is rotatably mounted about a support shaft 14 fixed to the first flange 1. The roller 5 is eccentric relative to the support shaft 14 such that the force applied to the roller 5 causes the support 13 to rotate and thus causes the rope stopper 10 to move towards the pad 3. The second flange 4 can be rotatably mounted on a flange rotation shaft 27.

[0084] Advantageously, a support spring 26 is connected on one side to the first flange 1 and on the other side to the support 13. The support spring 26 is arranged to keep the rope stopper 10 away from the slide 3. In other words, the support spring 26 opposes the rope stopper 10 and the slide 3 coming together. The stiffness of the support spring 26 is greater than the stiffness of the first spring 8, so that the rope stopper 10 allows the rope to slip between the rope stopper 10 and the slide 3 before the roller 5 leaves the second roller position. In other words, when sufficient force is applied to the roller 5, the roller 5 prevents rotation in one direction before the stopper 10 locks the rope against the first locking zone 3.

[0085] In the embodiment illustrated in figures 9 to 18The first rotation shaft 6 of the roller 5 is mounted eccentrically with respect to the support shaft 14, which secures the first rotation shaft 6 to the support 13. It is advantageous to use a first rotation shaft 6 with variable dimensions, such as the one shown in figures 16 to 18 As mentioned above, the greater the force applied to roller 5, the more roller 5 moves from its first position to its second position. In the second position, rotation in at least one direction is prohibited, resulting in significant friction between the rope and roller 5. Since roller 5 cannot rotate, the force applied to it causes it to move, and consequently, so does the support 13 and the rope stopper 10. The movement of the rope stopper 10 results in it moving closer to the pad 3 and, if necessary, locking the rope.

[0086] In the embodiment illustrated in the figure 9The support 13 is mounted movable relative to the first flange 1, and the support 13 is mounted on the first flange 1. The roller 5 is mounted on the support 13. The roller 5 is fixed to the first flange 1 via the support 13. The blocker 10 is fixedly mounted on the support 13. The movement of the blocker 10 follows the movement of the support 13 and vice versa.

[0087] As mentioned above, the handle 9 has a mechanical connection with the first flange 1 and the roller 5, for example via the support 13 and / or the first rotation shaft 6. The force applied to the handle 9 during its rotation exerts a force between the roller 5 and the housing, which separates the rope stopper 10 from the slider 3. In the particular embodiment illustrated, the handle 9 is mounted on the support 13 and preferably, the handle 9 is rotatably mounted around a handle rotation shaft 17, which advantageously cooperates with a screw 17a to fix the handle rotation shaft 17 to the support 13. Alternatively, the handle 9 can be mounted on the first flange 1 or on another element. The handle 9 can be forced into the first handle position by means of a handle spring 30.

[0088] There Figure 10Figure 5 illustrates a roller 5 in the first roller position and a rope clamp 10 in the first clamp position. The rope can move in both directions, and roller 5 facilitates this movement by rotating in both directions to follow the rope. The rope is not under tension. As the tension in the rope increases, the force on roller 5 increases until it reaches the first threshold value. Roller 5 then moves to the second roller position, which blocks at least one direction of rotation, as illustrated in Figure 10. figure 11 Preferably, the roller 5 rests against the roller stop. When the force on the roller 5 increases, the support 13 moves the rope stopper 10 towards the slider 3, which locks the rope. Activating the handle 9 moves the support 13 away from the slider 3, allowing the rope to slide.

[0089] In the illustrated embodiments, the roller 5 is mounted to rotate about a first axis of rotation that is perpendicular or substantially perpendicular to the first face 1a of the first flange 1. During operation, the rope moves within the rope path. The rope path is arranged so that the rope bears against two delimiters 7 fixed to the first flange 1 or the second flange 4. The delimiters 7 are separated by the roller 5 along the rope's path. When the rope is under tension, it presses against the delimiters 7 and the roller 5, which applies a force to the roller 5, causing it to move to the second roller position.

[0090] In the illustrated embodiments, handle 9 is intended to be operated by the left hand. The rope strand exiting the right-hand opening is intended to be attached to the climber and corresponds to the upstream strand. The rope strand exiting the left-hand opening is intended to provide or absorb excess rope. A reversed belay device configuration for right-hand operation of handle 9 is possible.

[0091] In the illustrated embodiment, the attachment point 2 is located under the roller 5. However, it is also possible to have an attachment point 2 that passes through the roller 5, which is therefore perforated. However, this embodiment is less advantageous because it requires a larger connector to attach the belay device to the attachment point. It is advantageous to have an attachment point in the second flange 4 so that the connector closes the belay device.

[0092] It is particularly advantageous to maintain the ability of roller 5 to rotate in the first direction of rotation even when the rope is locked, as this facilitates rope retrieval to assist the climber without compromising safety. By comparison, in belay devices that detect the rotation speed of roller 5 to lock it, once roller 5 is locked and the rope is under tension, the user does not know if their next action on the belay device will result in roller 5 being unblocked and therefore potentially causing another fall for the climber in case of mishandling, even though the rope is taut.

[0093] The procedure for using the belay device is as follows. A rope loop is installed in the belay device, with the rope loop passing around the roller 5. Since the tension in the rope is below a first threshold value, the roller 5 is in its first roller position. As the rope moves in one direction and then in the opposite direction, the roller 5 rotates first in one direction and then in the other. The tension in the rope increases within the belay device and applies force to the roller 5, pushing it towards the opening of the casing. The roller 5 moves until it reaches its second roller position. As the rope moves towards the climber, the roller 5 does not rotate around its axis of rotation. The increase in rope tension results in the roller 5 moving to its third roller position and locking the rope.

[0094] Rotating handle 9 moves the rope stopper 10 relative to the slide 3, with the roller 5 locked in at least one direction of rotation. This movement of the rope stopper 10 relative to the slide 3 adjusts the separation distance and therefore the friction between the rope, the rope stopper 10, the slide 3, and the roller 5, thus modulating the rope's speed.

[0095] The belay device prevents the roller from rotating when the tension in the rope reaches a threshold value. The belay device prevents the rotation of roller 5 when it is separated from its resting position by a certain distance. The resting position is a position where the rope is untensioned. The first spring converts the tension in the rope into the roller's position within the housing, and therefore the distance of the roller from its resting position.

Claims

1. Belay device comprising: - a casing designed to receive a rope loop, the casing defining at least one opening for strands of the rope loop to pass through and an attachment point (2) designed to attach the belay device to an anchor point, - a pad (3) fixed to the casing and delineating the at least one opening, - a roller (5) fixed to the casing by means of a first rotation shaft (6) and arranged in the casing, the roller (5) being mounted rotating in two rotation directions, the roller (5) being also mounted movable in the casing, along a first direction of movement between a first roller position, a second roller position and a third roller position, the second roller position being closer to the at least one opening than the first roller position, the third roller position being closer to the pad (3) than the second roller position, the first rotation shaft (6) being mounted movable with respect to the casing and / or deformable in order to move the roller (5) in the casing; - a rotation clamp (19, 20, 24, 25) configured to allow rotation of the roller (5) in both rotation directions when the roller (5) is in the first roller position, the rotation clamp (19, 20, 24, 25) being configured to block at least one of the two rotation directions of the roller (5) when the roller (5) is in the second roller position and when the roller (5) is in the third roller position, the roller (5) and / or the first rotation shaft (6) being in contact with a stop fixed to the casing to block said at least one of the two rotation directions of the roller (5) when the roller (5) is in the second roller position and when the roller (5) is in the third roller position, the roller (5) and / or the first rotation shaft (6) being at a distance of said stop when the roller (5) is in the first roller position to allow the roller (5) to rotate in both directions; - a first spring (8) having a first end coupled to the casing and a second end coupled to the roller (5) to bias the roller (5) toward the first roller position, the first spring (8) transforming a force of the loop of rope on the roller (5) into a position of the roller (5) in the casing, the first spring (8) forming all or part of a mechanical link connecting the roller (5) with the casing, the first spring (8) moving the roller (5) away from the at least one opening; - a rope clamp (5, 10) coupled to the roller (5) and mounted movable so as to move closer to or further away from the pad (3), the rope clamp (5, 10) being designed to clamp one of the strands of the rope loop against the pad (3) when the roller (5) is in the third roller position, the rope clamp (5, 10) following the position of the roller (5) at least when the roller (5) is between the second roller position and the third roller position, - a handle (9) mounted movable between a first handle position and a second handle position, the handle (9) being fixed to the casing, the handle (9) is functionally coupled to the casing and to the rope clamp (5, 10), rotation of the handle (9) moving the roller (5).

2. Belay device according to the preceding claim wherein the roller (5) is provided with a toothed wheel (19) and a hook (20) is mounted on the casing, the toothed wheel (19) being in contact with the hook (20) when the roller (5) is in the second roller position and the toothed wheel (19) being at a distance from the hook (20) when the roller (5) is in the first roller position, the hook (20) and the toothed wheel (19) forming the rotation clamp (19, 20).

3. Belay device according to the preceding claim wherein the hook (20) is mounted movable with respect to the casing between a first hook position and a second hook position, wherein when the hook (20) is in the first hook position and the roller (5) is in the second roller position, the toothed wheel (19) is in contact with the hook (20) and wherein when the hook (20) is in the second hook position and the roller (5) is in the third roller position, the toothed wheel (19) is in contact with the hook (20).

4. Belay device according to the preceding claim comprising a hook spring (22) applying a force on the hook (20), the hook spring (22) placing the hook (20) in the first hook position (20) in the absence of any outside force being applied.

5. Belay device according to claim 1 wherein the roller (5) is mounted rotatable around the first rotation shaft (6) and the first rotation shaft (6) is mounted rotatable around a second axis of rotation (14), wherein the first spring (8) applies a force on the first rotation shaft (6) in the direction of the first roller position and the first rotation shaft (6) is mounted on a support (13) and wherein the support (13) is mounted rotatable on a support rotation shaft (14) forming said second axis of rotation and a support spring (26) applies a force on the support (13) to move the pad (3) away from a rope clamp (10) fixed to the support (13).

6. Belay device according to the preceding claim wherein the first rotation shaft (6) and the support (13) are mounted rotatable around the support rotation shaft (14).

7. Belay device according to claim 1 wherein, the roller (5) rotates around the first rotation shaft (6) and wherein the first spring (8) is configured to adjust the space occupation of the first rotation shaft (6) perpendicularly to the axis of rotation of the roller (5) by means of the first spring (8), the first spring (8) being configured to apply a force on the first rotation shaft (6) and to shift the axis of rotation and the roller (5) in the direction of the first roller position.

8. Belay device according to anyone of the preceding claim comprising an additional rotation clamp configured to block rotation of the roller (5) when the additional rotation clamp detects that the speed of rotation of the roller (5) reaches a threshold value, the additional rotation clamp having a latch (11) movably mounted between a pulled-out position and a pushed-down position, the latch (11) abutting a pin (12) to block rotation of the roller (5) when the latch (11) is in the pulled-out position.

9. Method for using a belay device comprising the following steps: - providing a belay device according to anyone of the preceding claims, - installing a rope loop in the belay device, the rope loop passing round the roller (5), - the tension in the rope being lower than a first threshold value, making the rope run in one direction and then in the opposite direction to make roller (5) rotate in one rotation direction and then in the other rotation direction; - increasing the tension in the rope until the roller (5) reaches the second roller position, the roller (5) blocking at least one rotation direction, - further increasing the tension in the rope until the rope is clamped.