Dispersions comprising pigments and at least two lipophilic gelling agents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a dispersion comprising a fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and / or at least one reflective particle and at least two, preferably thermosensitive, lipophilic gelling agents.

Description

[0001] DESCRIPTION

[0002] TITLE: DISPERSIONS COMPRISING PIGMENTS AND AT LEAST TWO

[0003] LIPOPHILIC GELLING AGENTS

[0004] The present invention relates to stable dispersions comprising macroscopic drops of a dispersed fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents. It also relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, containing said dispersions as well as their uses in the cosmetic field.

[0005] Currently, there are pigmented dispersions of macroscopic drops of a fatty phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, notably described in WO2019 / 053236. These dispersions are notably obtained using a microfluidic process. Such dispersions have a differentiating and attractive visual appearance while combining high coverage and hydration.

[0006] Macroscopic droplet dispersions are sensitive to shear or fragmentation of the drops. To overcome this drawback, it is known to implement these dispersions in packaging requiring a specific airless atmosphere (so-called "airless" packaging), which restricts their uses. To overcome this problem, application WO 2017 / 046305 describes the addition of a gelling agent to the dispersed fatty phase, which makes it possible to obtain stable dispersions with improved mechanical strength, and therefore less sensitive to shear or fragmentation, particularly during transport. However, the presence of pigments in the dispersed fatty phase of such dispersions can lead to leakage of encapsulated oil into the continuous aqueous phase. This phenomenon is exacerbated, or even appears only, in the presence of dispersions with macroscopic-sized fatty phase drops.

[0007] For obvious reasons, this inconvenience is not desirable. Indeed, these oil leaks can lead to:

[0008] - the leakage of encapsulated active ingredient(s), which may be detrimental to the integrity of said active ingredient, or even lead to unwanted reactions with other active ingredients present in the continuous aqueous phase;

[0009] - an increase in the hardness of the dispersed fatty phase drops, because they are less loaded with oils, which can alter the sensoriality and comfort when applying the dispersion; - a modification of the size of the drops; and

[0010] - continuous opacification of the aqueous phase, agglomeration of the dispersed phase drops together and / or adhesion of the drops to the walls of the packaging, via the formation of oil bridges.

[0011] All these drawbacks are likely to negatively impact the stability, comfort of application and also the appearance of these dispersions. However, appearance is a very important selection (and therefore purchase) criterion in the cosmetics field.

[0012] There is therefore a need for new pigmented dispersions comprising macroscopic drops which do not have the aforementioned disadvantages.

[0013] More generally, the development of pigmented dispersions, particularly in the cosmetics field, which are ever more stable, comfortable to apply and aesthetic remains a constant objective.

[0014] Furthermore, prior art documents FR 3 129 286 (WO2023094468) and FR 3 129 287 may be cited, which aim to provide a dispersion comprising a fatty phase, in the form of drops, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase.

[0015] We can also cite the prior art document FR 3 083 1 18 aimed at providing a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least: a) a polymeric lipophilic gelling agent derived from castor oil and b) one or more organic UV filter(s).

[0016] We can also cite the prior art document EP 2 997 955 aimed at providing an oil-in-water cosmetic product.

[0017] However, these documents do not propose a solution for obtaining dispersions of pigmented spherical macroscopic drops, the manufacture of which can be achieved by using a process, in particular a microfluidic process, without the appearance of undesirable phenomena of destabilization of the process, while presenting satisfactory stability, comfort in application and visual appearance.

[0018] The present invention therefore aims to provide stable pigmented dispersions of drops, in particular macroscopic ones, in which the oil leaks described below and the underlying drawbacks are reduced, or even overcome, and the manufacturing process of which, in particular microfluidic, is not negatively impacted and is therefore considered stable.

[0019] The present application describes a dispersion comprising, or even containing, a fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive, and very particularly chosen from:

[0020] - at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s);

[0021] - at least one lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and / or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; or

[0022] - at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

[0023] The present application also describes a dispersion, in which the two lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from:

[0024] - a first lipophilic gelling agent chosen from at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); and

[0025] - a second lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer or at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

[0026] The present invention relates to a dispersion comprising, or even containing, a fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and / or at least one reflective particle, and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive, chosen from:

[0027] - at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s);

[0028] - at least one lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and / or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; and

[0029] - at least one wax.

[0030] Preferably, the present invention relates to such a dispersion, in which the two lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from: - a first lipophilic gelling agent chosen from at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); and

[0031] - a second lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, preferably chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer or at least one wax.

[0032] In the remainder of the description, the drops of dispersed fatty phase may be referred to interchangeably as “G1 drops”.

[0033] A dispersion of the invention has the advantage of being stable, in particular over time and during transport. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable" means the absence of creaming or sedimentation of the drops of dispersed phase in the continuous phase, the absence of opacification of the aqueous continuous phase, the absence of aggregation of the drops with each other, and in particular the absence of coalescence or Oswald ripening of the drops with each other, and the absence of leakage of materials from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase, or vice versa, and in particular the absence of leakage of oil(s) from the dispersed phase to the continuous phase.

[0034] As is apparent from the examples described below, the presence of at least two lipophilic gelling agents in a dispersion according to the invention makes it possible to reduce, or even prevent, the phenomenon of oil leakage(s) and the underlying drawbacks, which makes it possible to preserve, or even improve, the stability, comfort in application and the appearance of a dispersion according to the invention.

[0035] Furthermore, as shown in example 4 below, the implementation of a gelling system with at least two gelling agents mentioned above allows compatibility with a manufacturing process, in particular microfluidic, without the appearance of undesirable phenomena of destabilization of the process, and allows access to a dispersion of spherical macroscopic drops, unlike lipophilic gelling agents of the solid or liquid butter type.

[0036] Thus, the inventors have surprisingly discovered that the presence of at least two lipophilic gelling agents in a dispersion makes it possible to reconcile compatibility of a manufacturing process, in particular microfluidic, with the preservation, or even improvement, of the stability, comfort in application and visual appearance of a dispersion according to the invention. Advantageously, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention are macroscopic drops, that is to say that the drops are visible to the naked eye, as opposed to microscopic drops which are not visible to the naked eye.

[0037] Advantageously, in a dispersion according to the invention, the drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm, or even greater than or equal to 200 μm, better still greater than or equal to 300 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 400 μm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 μm, or even greater than or equal to 1,000 μm, or even between 100 μm and 3,000 μm, better still between 200 μm and 2,000 μm, in particular between 300 μm and 1,500 μm, and better still between 500 μm and 1,000 μm, represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase, and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 pm, or even greater than or equal to 200 pm, better still greater than or equal to 300 pm, in particular greater than or equal to 400 pm, preferably greater than or equal to 500 pm, or even greater than or equal to 1000 pm,even between 100 pm and 3,000 pm, better between 200 pm and 2,000 pm, in particular between 300 pm and 1,500 pm, better between 500 pm and 1,000 pm.,

[0038] Preferably, the dispersions of the invention consist of a population of monodisperse G1 drops, in particular such that they have a coefficient of variation Cv of less than 10%, or even less than 3%.

[0039] In the context of the present description, the term "monodispersed drops" means that the population of drops G1 of the dispersion according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. Monodispersed drops have good monodispersity. Conversely, drops having poor monodispersity are said to be "polydispersed".

[0040] The average diameter of the drops is for example measured according to the method described in WO2021234135.

[0041] The coefficient of variation Cv of the diameters of the drops G1 is advantageously less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, or even less than 3%.

[0042] To obtain monodisperse drops, it is also possible to use the microfluidic technique (Utada et al. MRS Bulletin 32, 702-708 (2007); Cramer et al. Chem. Eng. Sci. 59, 15, 3045-3058 (2004)), and more particularly microfluidic devices of the co-flow type (the fluids go in the same direction) or flow-focusing type (the fluids go in different directions, and typically in opposite directions), and in particular by means of the manufacturing processes described below.

[0043] Determining the volume of drops having a particular diameter relative to the total volume of the dispersed phase falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art, in particular with regard to the diameter measurement method described above.

[0044] In the context of the present invention, the above-mentioned dispersions may be referred to interchangeably by the term "emulsions".

[0045] In addition, the drops advantageously exhibit apparent monodispersity (i.e. they are perceived by the eye as spheres of identical diameter). The drops are advantageously substantially spherical.

[0046] According to the invention, the pH of a dispersion is typically between 4.0 and 8.0, in particular between 5.0 and 7.0.

[0047] Unless otherwise stated, in all that follows, we consider that we are at room temperature (for example T=25°C ± 2°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1,013.10 5 Pa or 10 13 mbar).

[0048] The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can vary significantly, which therefore makes it possible to obtain varied textures.

[0049] According to one embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention has a viscosity of from 500 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,000 mPa.s to 200,000 mPa.s, better still from 2,500 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 5,000 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C.

[0050] Viscosity is measured at room temperature and ambient pressure by the method described in WO2017046305.

[0051] According to a particular embodiment, a dispersion according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, does not comprise a surfactant.

[0052] Dispersion

[0053] A dispersion according to the invention, in particular the continuous aqueous phase, is liquid at room temperature and at ambient pressure. In other words, a dispersion according to the invention is not in a solid form, in particular compact, powdery, cast or in stick form.

[0054] The drops G1 of fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention may be single-phase or multi-phase. The drops G1 may be spheres or capsules. By "sphere" is meant a drop without a shell, and therefore where the dispersed fatty phase is in direct contact with the continuous aqueous phase.

[0055] In the case where the G1 drops are capsules, the drops comprise a core (which comprises at least one fatty phase) and a shell (or membrane or envelope) completely encapsulating the core. In other words, the dispersed fatty phase is not in direct contact with the continuous aqueous phase.

[0056] The drops themselves can comprise one or more phases.

[0057] All or part of the pigments present in a dispersion according to the invention are in the fatty phase forming the core.

[0058] According to one embodiment, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic core, and optionally a shell completely encapsulating said core, said core being single-phase, and at least formed by the dispersed fatty phase. Such a type of drop then leads to a simple dispersion comprising two distinct phases, an internal phase represented by the fatty phase and an external phase, preferably in the gelled state, surrounding the internal phase and represented by the aqueous phase.

[0059] According to another particular embodiment, the drops of a dispersion according to the invention comprise a liquid or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic core, and optionally a shell completely encapsulating said core, said core comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase arranged in the intermediate drop, at least one of the intermediate and / or internal phase(s) forming the fatty phase and the pigment(s) being present in at least the fatty phase.

[0060] Advantageously, the intermediate phase is oily and the internal phase is aqueous or formed from a different oily phase and immiscible at room temperature and atmospheric pressure with the intermediate phase. Such a type of drop then leads to a complex dispersion meaning that the core comprises a single intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase arranged in the intermediate drop.

[0061] According to one variant, the core comprises an intermediate phase within which there are a plurality of drops of internal phase(s).

[0062] According to a particular embodiment: - the continuous aqueous phase can itself be in the form of a direct emulsion (oil-in-water), said emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops (G2), the size of the drops (G2) preferably being smaller than the size of the drops (G1); and / or

[0063] - the fatty phase can itself be in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil), said emulsion comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of drops (G3), the size of the drops (G3) being necessarily smaller than the size of the drops (G1) and preferably microscopic.

[0064] In particular, the size of the drops (G2) and / or (G3) is less than 500 pm, preferably less than 400 pm, in particular less than 250 pm, better still less than 150 pm, in particular less than 100 pm, or even less than 20 pm, and better still less than 10 pm. Preferably, the size of the drops (G2) and / or (G3) is between 0.1 pm and 200 pm, preferably between 0.25 pm and 100 pm, in particular between 0.5 pm and 50 pm, preferably between 1 pm and 20 pm, and better still between 1 pm and 10 pm, or even between 3 pm and 5 pm.

[0065] Optionally, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) comprise a shell formed from at least one anionic polymer and at least one cationic polymer, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined below.

[0066] Advantageously, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are not macroscopic, and are therefore microscopic, i.e. not visible to the naked eye. In other words, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are different and independent from the drops (G1).

[0067] These drops (G2) and / or (G3) of reduced size make it possible to have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a dispersion according to the invention comprising such finely dispersed drops (G2) and / or (G3) has improved smoothness qualities.

[0068] Advantageously, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) may comprise at least one pigment, identical to or different from the pigment(s) present in the fatty phase of the drops (G1).

[0069] Advantageously, the intermediate phase comprises at least one gelling agent, in particular a lipophilic one, in particular as defined below. The gelling agent contributes in particular to improving the suspension of the internal drop(s) arranged in the intermediate drop, and therefore to improving the stability of a dispersion according to the invention according to this embodiment.

[0070] Continuous aqueous phase According to one embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase has a viscosity of from 500 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1,000 mPa.s to 200,000 mPa.s, better still from 2,500 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 5,000 mPa.s to 50,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25°C.

[0071] This viscosity is measured according to the method described above.

[0072] The continuous aqueous phase comprises at least water. In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.

[0073] According to one embodiment, the mass percentage of water in the continuous aqueous phase is at least 30%, preferably at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, and better still at least 60%, in particular between 70% and 98%, and preferably between 75% and 95%, relative to the total mass of the continuous aqueous phase.

[0074] The continuous aqueous phase of the dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one base, in particular when the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one pH-dependent hydrophilic gelling agent, for example a carbomer, and thus to increase the viscosity. It may comprise a single base or a mixture of several different bases. According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is a mineral base, in particular chosen from the group consisting of alkali metal hydroxides and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. Preferably, the mineral base is an alkali metal hydroxide, and in particular NaOH. According to one embodiment, the base present in the aqueous phase is an organic base. Among the organic bases, mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, pyridine, triethanolamine, aminomethylpropanol, or triethylamine.

[0075] A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1% to 1% by weight of base, preferably mineral base, and in particular NaOH, relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0076] Dispersed fatty phase

[0077] The fatty phase dispersed in the form of drops G1 of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment and at least two different lipophilic gelling agents.

[0078] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, and in particular between 15% and 30%, by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

[0079] Advantageously, the dispersed fatty phase may also comprise at least one oil, and may indifferently be designated by “oily phase”.

[0080] Oils

[0081] The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature.

[0082] As oils which can be used in the composition of the invention, we can cite for example:

[0083] - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, linseed oil, Perilla oil, Inca Inchi oil, rosehip oil, rapeseed oil, hemp oil, sweet almond oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, Meadowfoam oil (INCI: Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil), where appropriate hydrogenated;

[0084] - hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

[0085] - synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which Ri represents the residue of a fatty acid in Cs to C29, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, in C3 to C30, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate;and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631);

[0086] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil;

[0087] - silicone oils, such as, for example, volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

[0088] - fatty alcohols with 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or octyldodecanol;

[0089] - partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; and

[0090] - and their mixtures.

[0091] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise hydrocarbon oil of animal origin, hydrocarbon, silicone oil, fluorinated oil, and mixtures thereof.

[0092] Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the nature and / or content of oil(s), in particular to ensure satisfactory solubilization (or homogenization) of the pigment(s) and lipophilic gelling agents.

[0093] A dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises from 10% to 98%, in particular between 20% and 90%, preferably from 30% to 80%, better still from 40% to 70%, and in particular from 50% to 60%, by weight of oil(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0094] Pigments

[0095] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one pigment. The use of several pigments makes it possible to nuance the color of the fatty phase of the drops, and therefore of the dispersion, as desired.

[0096] The term "pigment" means a coloring chemical substance that is insoluble in the phase in which the pigment is present. The term "insoluble" means that the solubility at 20°C of the pigment in the phase in which the pigment is present is less than 1 g / L, in particular less than 0.1 g / L, preferably less than 0.001 g / L.

[0097] Each pigment may independently be an organic, inorganic or hybrid organic-inorganic pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments. The coloration imparted by a dispersion according to the invention may, for example, be measured by spectrocolorimetry and / or spectrophotocolorimetry.

[0098] Coverage refers to the ability of a composition to “mask the skin” / “hide imperfections”. The coverage of a composition can be measured according to the method described in WO2019053236.

[0099] Examples of pigments that may be mentioned include titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. Preferred mineral pigments are iron oxides, including red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

[0100] The pigment is preferably an iron oxide, including red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Each pigment may be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment. For the purposes of the application, "treated pigment" means a pigment that has been treated with an additive improving its dispersibility in an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below. "Untreated pigment" or "untreated pigment" means a pigment that has not been treated with such an additive.

[0102] According to a first alternative, the pigment used is an untreated and unground pigment (pigment used “as is”).

[0103] According to a second alternative, the pigment used has undergone a preliminary treatment in order to make it more easily dispersible during the formulation of the pigment, that is to say in particular more easily dispersible in the phase considered. This preliminary treatment consists of grinding the pigment and / or pretreating it with an additive improving its dispersibility before formulating it in the form of a series of colored particles.

[0104] The use of a ground pigment and / or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:

[0105] - contributes to a liquid containing the ground and / or pre-treated pigment having a low viscosity,

[0106] - contributes to the preparation of a dispersion whose dispersed fatty phase has a very high pigment content, for example comprising more than 25%, in particular more than 30%, or even more than 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the weight of the dispersed fatty phase,

[0107] - contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) in the phase(s) which contain(s) it, and / or - contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the aggregation of the pigments in the phase(s) which contain(s) it.

[0108] Typically, when using multiple pigments, they all undergo the same processing, meaning they are all ground and / or pre-treated. However, it is possible for some to be ground and untreated, and others to be treated and ground or unground.

[0109] According to a first embodiment according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment.

[0110] The nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic character of the phase(s) which will comprise this treated pigment.

[0111] When a dispersion uses several pre-treated pigments, these can be pre-treated with identical or different additives.

[0112] An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within the fatty phase is chosen for example from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or one of its salts and an amino acid ester or one of its salts, and mixtures thereof, as described for example in WO2019 / 053236. The preferred amino acid is cystine, and the preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, lauroyl arginine or lauroyl lysine. Mention may also be made of hydrophobic surface treatments based on avocado butter, such as the UNIPURE pigments from Sensient.

[0113] In this first embodiment according to the second alternative using a pretreated pigment, the pretreated pigment may then comprise a grinding step or be free of it. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and / or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s) which contain(s) it.

[0114] This grinding step can be carried out in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of a binder (dry grinding).

[0115] Preferably, when the pigment is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily phase, the binder is chosen from octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] The mill is typically chosen from three-roll mills, ball mills, and plate mills. When the grinding step is carried out in the absence of a binder, the mill may be a pin mill, jet micronizer, impact mill, hammer mill, knife mill, ball mill, vibrating mill, or cryogenic mill.

[0117] According to a second embodiment according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment is not pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility, and the method then comprises a step of grinding the pigment. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase(s) and / or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the phase(s) which contain(s) it.

[0118] The methods described above for grinding are of course applicable (type of grinder, absence or presence of binder).

[0119] Advantageously, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, in particular better between 15% and 35%, preferably between 20% and 35%, and very particularly between 25% and 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0120] A dispersion according to the invention is advantageous in that its aforementioned advantageous properties remain, even in the presence of high pigment contents in the dispersed fatty phase. Thus, a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises a content greater than 25%, or even greater than 30%, and even greater than 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0121] Preferably, the fatty phase may further comprise at least one pigment dispersing agent. As pigment dispersing agent, mention may be made of hydrostearic acid or polyhydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed by Phoenix Chemical under the name PELEMOL PHS-8 or by Lubrizol under the name Matrifuse S-1. Mention may also be made of MiyoFILM CCTG marketed by Miyoshi (INCI: Dextrin Isostearate (and) Caprylic / capric triglyceride).

[0122] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 1.5% and 6%, and better still between 2% and 4%, by weight of pigment dispersing agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0123] The presence of such particular compound(s) is advantageous in that it / they make it possible to reduce the viscosity of a fatty phase comprising at least one pigment, for example a pigment / oil ground product (60:40), a fortiori of a phase highly loaded with pigments, and therefore make it / them fluid and more easily processable, in particular at the level of fluidic devices such as described below.

[0124] Reflective particles

[0125] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least one reflective particle.

[0126] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "reflective particle" means a particle whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer(s) which constitute it and their physical and chemical nature, and surface condition, enable them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of a dispersion according to the invention, when the latter is in particular applied to a keratin material, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is to say brighter points which contrast with their environment by appearing to shine. In the context of the present invention, an above-mentioned reflective particle may be designated indifferently by the term "glitter".

[0127] According to a particular embodiment, the reflective particles have a ratio "d / e" greater than 10, where "d" represents the largest dimension of the reflective particles and "e" represents the thickness of the reflective particles. Preferably, the ratio between the largest dimension and the thickness of the reflective particles "d / e" is greater than or equal to 10, in particular greater than or equal to 20, and better still greater than or equal to 50.

[0128] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a dimension of between 5 and 1000 pm, more preferably between 10 and 750 pm, in particular between 50 and 500 pm, and better still between 100 and 250 pm. The particle size is preferably greater than or equal to 10 pm, better still greater than or equal to 20 pm, even better still greater than or equal to 40 pm.

[0129] When the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises, for example, at least one pigment different from a reflective particle, it is advantageously selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by this associated pigment and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering.

[0130] The reflective particles may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection. These reflective particles may have various shapes. These particles may be in particular platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical. The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may have a multi-layer structure or not and, in the case of a multi-layer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material. When the reflective particles do not have a multi-layer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, for example titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

[0131] When the reflective particles have a multi-layer structure, they may, for example, comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular at least one metal or metallic compound. The substrate may be single-material, multi-material, organic and / or inorganic.

[0132] More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and their mixtures, this list not being limiting.

[0133] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or a metallic compound.

[0134] Glass particles coated with a metal layer are described in particular in documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0135] Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver, also called “white nacres”.

[0136] Platelet-shaped particles with a silver-coated glass substrate are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS 25 by TOYAL. Particles with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy-coated glass substrate are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by the same company.

[0137] The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may also be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate coated at least partially with at least one layer of at least one metallic compound, in particular a metallic oxide, chosen for example from titanium oxides, in particular TiO2, iron oxides, in particular Fe20s, tin oxides, chromium oxides, barium sulfate and the following compounds: MgF2, CrF3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO2, AI2O3, MgO, Y2O3, SeO3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2C>5, Ta2C>5, MoS2 and their mixtures or alloys.

[0138] Examples of such particles include, for example, particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or glass particles coated with either brown iron oxide, titanium oxide, tin oxide or one of their mixtures, such as those sold under the brand name REFLECKS® by the company ENGELHARD.

[0139] Reflective particles may or may not be goniochromatic and / or interferential.

[0140] The reflective particles may be chosen from nacres, reflective interference particles, goniochromatic (coloring) agents, diffracting pigments, and mixtures thereof.

[0141] By "mother-of-pearl" we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

[0142] The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic colorant, in particular of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials.

[0143] Mother-of-pearl can more specifically have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

[0144] By way of illustration, mother-of-pearls that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of gold-colored mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); orange mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown mother-of-pearls marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite);mother-of-pearl with a copper sheen, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl with a red sheen, notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); mother-of-pearl with a yellow sheen, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a red tint and a gold sheen, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink mother-of-pearl, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone);black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen, notably marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with a silver sheen, notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and orange-pinkish-golden-green mother-of-pearl notably marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof;

[0145] We can also cite reflective interference particles based on glass such as Ronastar marketed by MERCK or synthetic interference particles based on mica such as Sunshine marketed by SUN CHEMICAL or PROMINENCE marketed by NIKON KOKEN and their mixture.

[0146] It is also possible to envisage using, as reflective particles, a goniochromatic coloring agent provided that this agent meets the requirement of tint effect required according to the invention and does not, moreover, disturb the visual perception of the composition in terms of color effect. This goniochromatic coloring agent can be chosen in particular from interference multilayer structures.

[0147] The goniochromatic pigment may, for example, be selected from multilayer interference structures, liquid crystal coloring agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0148] For example, a multilayer structure may comprise at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pi, Va, AI2O3, MgO, Y2O3, S2O3, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2Os, Ta2Os, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, VSI, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof. The multilayer structure may optionally be symmetrical with respect to a central layer with respect to the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

[0149] Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained.

[0150] Examples of pigments with these structures are marketed under the trade name XIRONA by MERCK (Darmstadt).

[0151] For example, liquid crystal coloring agents include silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups have been grafted. Examples of suitable liquid crystalline goniochromatic particles are those sold by CHENTX, and those sold under the trade name HELICONE® HC by WACKER. Suitable goniochromatic pigments are nacres; pigments having effects on synthetic substrates, in particular alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminum substrates; or interference particles from a polyethylene terephthalate film.

[0152] The material may further contain dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Such fibers could have a length of less than 80 pm, for example.

[0153] The term "diffractive pigment" as used herein refers to a pigment that is capable of producing a color variation depending on the viewing angle when illuminated with white light due to the presence of a structure that diffracts light. Such a pigment is sometimes referred to as a holographic pigment or a rainbow effect pigment.

[0154] A diffracting pigment may comprise a diffraction matrix capable, for example, of diffracting an incident ray of monochromatic light in predetermined directions.

[0155] The diffraction matrix may comprise a periodic pattern, in particular a line, the distance between two adjacent patterns being of the same order of magnitude as the wavelength of the incident light.

[0156] When the incident light is polychromatic, the diffraction matrix separates the different spectral components of the light and produces a rainbow effect. Regarding the structure of diffracting pigments, see the article "Pigments exhibiting diffractive effects" by Alberto Argoitia and Matt Witzman, 2002, Society of Vacuum Coaters, 45 th Annual Technical Conference Proceedings, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. The diffracting pigment may be made with different profile patterns, including triangular, symmetrical or asymmetrical, serrated, of constant or non-constant width, sinusoidal or stepped.

[0157] The spatial frequency of the matrix and the depth of the pattern will be chosen according to the desired degree of separation of the different orders. For example, the frequency can be between 500 and 3000 lines per mm.

[0158] Preferably, the diffracting pigment particles each have a flattened shape, in particular in the form of a platelet. The same pigment particle may comprise two crossed diffraction matrices, perpendicular or not, and having or not the same spacing.

[0159] The diffractive pigment may have a multi-layer structure comprising a layer of reflective material, covered on at least one side, or even completely encapsulated, by a layer of a dielectric material. This layer may give the diffractive pigment improved rigidity and durability. Preferably, the dielectric material used is inorganic and may, for example, be chosen from metal fluorides, metal oxides, metal sulfides, metal nitrides, metal carbides and combinations thereof. The dielectric material may be in the crystalline, semi-crystalline or amorphous state. The dielectric material in this configuration may, for example, be selected from the following materials: MgF2, SiO, SiO2, AI2O3, TiO2, WO3, AIN, BN, B4C, WC, TiC, TiN, N4Si3, ZnS, AIF3, CeF3, LaF3, NdF3, SmF2, BaF2, CaF2, LiF, glass particles, diamond, and combinations thereof.

[0160] The reflective material may, for example, be selected from metals and their alloys as well as from non-metallic reflective materials. Metals that may be mentioned include Al, Ag, Cu, Au, Pt, Sn, Ti, Pd, Ni, Co, Rd, Nb, Cr, and their materials, combinations or alloys. Such a reflective material may alone constitute the diffracting pigment which is then a monolayer. Alternatively, the diffracting pigment may be composed of a dielectric or preformed ceramic material such as a natural lamellae mineral, for example peroskovite mica or talc, or synthetic lamellae formed from glass, alumina, SiO2, carbon, iron oxide / mica, BN-coated mica, BC, graphite, bismuth oxychloride and combinations thereof.

[0161] Instead of a layer of a dielectric material, other materials that improve mechanical properties may be suitable. Such materials may include silicone, metal silicides, semiconductor materials formed from elements of groups III, IV and V, metals having a body-centered cubic crystal structure, Cermet compositions or materials, semiconductor glasses and various combinations thereof.

[0162] The diffractive pigment used may in particular be chosen from those described in patent application US-2003 / 0031870 published on February 13, 2003. A diffractive pigment may, for example, comprise the following structure: MgF2 / Al / MgF2, a diffractive pigment having this structure being marketed under the trade name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver by FLEX PRODUCTS, or SPECTRFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. The proportion by weight of MgF2 may be between 80% and 95% of the total weight of the pigment. Other diffractive pigments are sold under the trade names METALURE® PRISMATIC by ECKART®. Other possible structures are Fe / Al / Fe or Al / Fe / Al.

[0163] The size of the diffracting pigment may, for example, be between 5 and 200 pm, more preferably between 5 and 100 pm, for example between 5 and 30 pm. The thickness of the diffracting pigment particles may be 3 pm or less, preferably 2 pm, for example of the order of 1 pm.

[0164] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or quantity of reflective particles according to the aqueous or fatty nature of the phase considered in the dispersion according to the invention and / or with regard to the manufacturing process of said dispersion. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0165] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention comprises between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 1.5% and 6%, and better still between 2% and 4%, by weight of reflective particle(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

[0166] Lipophilic gelling agents

[0167] The fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two lipophilic gelling agents, different from the oils and pigments described above. The combination of these (at least) two lipophilic gelling agents, in addition to their ability to improve the mechanical strength of the drops, to increase the viscosity and / or to reduce, or even prevent, the sedimentation of the pigment(s) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, unexpectedly makes it possible to improve the properties of a dispersion according to the invention in terms of oil leakage, adhesion, aggregation and stickiness.

[0168] In the context of the invention, the term "gelling agent" means an agent which, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, makes it possible to increase the viscosity of the phase(s) which contain it compared to the same phase(s) without said gelling agent, and for example to achieve a final viscosity of the phase(s) greater than 2,000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 4,000 mPa.s, better still greater than 10,000 mPa.s, and very particularly greater than 100,000 mPa.s.

[0169] Preferably, the viscosity of the dispersed fatty phase is between 2,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 4,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better still between 10,000 and 500,000 mPa.s, at 25°C.

[0170] The term “lipophilic gelling agent” means a liposoluble or lipodispersible compound capable of gelling the fatty (or oily) phase of a dispersion according to the invention.

[0171] Lipophilic gelling agents are advantageously heat-sensitive. The expression “heat-sensitive gelling agent” designates an agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase comprising it when devoid of said agent, this viscosity changing reversibly as a function of temperature.

[0172] The fatty phase of a dispersion described in the present application may comprise at least two different lipophilic gelling agents chosen from:

[0173] - at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s);

[0174] - Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and / or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; Or

[0175] - at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

[0176] The fatty phase of a dispersion described in the present application may comprise at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, in which:

[0177] - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); and

[0178] - the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, or at least one pasty fatty substance chosen from a wax, a butter, and their mixtures.

[0179] Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents chosen from:

[0180] - at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); - Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and / or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; And

[0181] - at least one wax.

[0182] Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, in which:

[0183] - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); and

[0184] - the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, or at least one wax.

[0185] In other words, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s).

[0186] Estep's) of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s)

[0187] Preferably, the ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), esters of inulin and fatty acid(s), esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), and in particular from dextrin palmitate.

[0188] According to one embodiment, the ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) according to the invention is a mono- or poly-ester of dextrin and at least one fatty acid corresponding to the following formula (II):

[0189] [Chem 1] in which: one is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50, o the radicals R4, R5 and Re, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group -COR a in which the radical R a represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having from 5 to 50, preferably from 5 to 25 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R4, R5 or Re is other than hydrogen.

[0190] According to one embodiment, R4, R5 and Re represent, independently of each other, H or an acyl group -COR a in which R ais a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals R4, R5 or Re are identical and different from hydrogen.

[0191] According to one embodiment, when the radicals R4, R5 and Re, identical or different, represent a radical -COR a , these can be chosen from the radicals caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl, stearolyl, and mixtures thereof.

[0192] Examples of dextrin fatty acid esters include dextrin palmitates, dextrin myristates, dextrin palmitates / ethylhexanoates, and mixtures thereof. Examples include dextrin fatty acid esters marketed under the names Rheopearl® KL2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate), Rheopearl® TT2 (INCI name: dextrin palmitate ethylhexanoate), and Rheopearl® MKL2 (INCI name: dextrin myristate) by Miyoshi Europe, and dextrin palmitate marketed by The Innovation Company.

[0193] As esters of inulin and fatty acid(s), we can cite those marketed under the names Rheopearl® ISK2 or Rheopearl® ISL2 (INCI name: Stearoyl Inulin) by the company Miyoshi Europe.

[0194] The ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) may in particular be a mono-, di- or triester of glycerol and fatty acid(s). According to the invention, it may be an ester of glycerol and a fatty acid or an ester of glycerol and a mixture of fatty acids.

[0195] According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

[0196] According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) has the following formula (III): [Chem 2] in which: R1, R2 and R3 are, independently of one another, chosen from H and a saturated alkyl chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, at least one of R1, R2 and R3 being different from H.

[0197] According to one embodiment, R1, R2 and R3 are different.

[0198] According to one embodiment, R1, R2 and / or R3 represents a saturated alkyl chain comprising from 4 to 30, preferably from 12 to 22, and preferentially from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0199] According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which Ri = H, R2 = C21H43 and R3 = C19H40.

[0200] According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which Ri = R2= R3= C21H43.

[0201] According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which Ri = R2= H, and R3 = C19H40.

[0202] According to one embodiment, the ester of glycerol and fatty acid(s) corresponds to a compound of formula (III) in which Ri = R2= H, and R3 = C17H35.

[0203] Examples of glycerol and fatty acid esters include those marketed under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: Glyceryl behenate / eicosadioate) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate), by the company Nisshin Oillio.

[0204] Polyurethane lipophilic gelling agents

[0205] As a lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be made of polyurethane lipophilic gelling agents (or polyurethane compounds capable of gelling at least one oil), such as those described in WO2016 / 090081 and WO2018 / 185432.

[0206] As a lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent, mention may be made of the one having the INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, and in particular that marketed by PolymerExpert under the name Estogel M or EMC 30. Mention may also be made of the one having the INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79, and in particular that marketed by Lubrizol under the name OILKEMIA 5S. Mention may also be made of the one having the INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, and in particular that marketed by Lubrizol under the name OILKEMIA 5S CC.

[0207] A pasty fatty substance may be chosen from synthetic compounds and / or compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance may be obtained by synthesis from starting products of plant origin. More particularly, the pasty fatty substance(s) are of plant origin.

[0208] Wax(s)

[0209] For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C and up to 120°C.

[0210] The protocol for measuring this melting point is described later.

[0211] The waxes that can be used in a composition according to the invention can be chosen from solid waxes, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures, and preferably from waxes of vegetable origin.

[0212] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice wax, sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, japan wax and sumac wax, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, and their mixtures, and preferably rice wax and / or sunflower wax, may be used.

[0213] We can also cite waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32.

[0214] These include hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

[0215] Waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor or olive oil, may also be used, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A- 2792190.

[0216] Silicone waxes can also be used which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point.

[0217] Commercial silicone waxes of this type include those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-11 18-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC).

[0218] The silicone waxes that can be used can also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-Ceo) alkyldimethicones, in particular (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones.

[0219] Hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups can also be used, such as: siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax from Koster Keunen.

[0220] Waxes can also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

[0221] Butter(s) or pasty fat(s)

[0222] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise butter.

[0223] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also called "pasty fat") means a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

[0224] For example, butters or pasty fats present in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.

[0225] Examples of butters that can be mentioned are C10-C18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 Triglycerides) comprising at a temperature of 25°C and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, shea butter, Nilotica Shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipe butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia (Madhuca longifolia), Mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.butyracea), mango butter {Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter {Astrocatyum murumuru), Kokum butter {Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter {Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) {Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter {Coffea arabica), apricot butter Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter {Persea gratissima), olive butter {Olea europaea), sweet almond butter {Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter {Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter under the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (mixture of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil)(INCI name: Jojoba esters) and shea butter ethyl esters (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.

[0226] Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise butter in the form of a liquid fraction at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), in particular liquid shea butter, such as for example Lipex® 205 marketed by the company AAK AB.

[0227] Preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents chosen from: at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s); Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride; and at least one wax.

[0228] Even more preferably, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention comprises at least two different lipophilic gelling agents, in which:

[0229] - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride;

[0230] - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax; or

[0231] - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax. According to a first preferred embodiment, the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

[0232] According to a second preferred embodiment, the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax.

[0233] In other words, the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s).

[0234] Preferably, in particular with the first preferred embodiment described above, the two lipophilic gelling agents are present in the dispersed fatty phase in a weight ratio “first lipophilic gelling agent(s) / second lipophilic gelling agent(s)” of between 50:50 and 25:75, preferably between 45:55 and 30:70, and better still between 35:65 and 30:70.

[0235] According to the invention, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise between 1% and 30%, preferably between 2.5% and 20%, and in particular between 5% and 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agents relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

[0236] Additional lipophilic gelling agent

[0237] A dispersion may further comprise at least one additional lipophilic gelling agent, different from the lipophilic gelling agents described above.

[0238] Such an additional lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular gelling agents; and mixtures thereof. Such lipophilic gelling agents are described in particular in WO2019002308.

[0239] According to the invention, a dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 20%, preferably from 1% to 15%, and in particular from 2% to 10%, by weight of additional lipophilic gelling agent(s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase comprising it.

[0240] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional lipophilic gelling agent(s) and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a dispersion according to the invention, as well as their manufacturing processes, are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. These adjustments fall within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0241] Bark of drops (optional) Drops (G1) may include bark.

[0242] According to the invention, the drops obtained may have a very thin shell, in particular with a thickness less than 1% of the diameter of the drops.

[0243] The thickness of the bark is thus preferably less than 1 pm and is therefore too small to be measured by optical methods.

[0244] According to one embodiment, the thickness of the droplet shell is advantageously less than 1000 nm, in particular between 1 and 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, advantageously less than 50 nm, preferentially less than 10 nm.

[0245] The measurement of the thickness of the bark of the drops of the invention can be carried out by the method described in WO2017046305.

[0246] The bark surrounding the drops of the dispersed fatty phase makes it possible in particular to improve the properties of the drops in terms of shear resistance, adhesion and aggregation.

[0247] This shell is preferably formed by coacervation, that is, by precipitation of oppositely charged polymers. Within a coacervate, the bonds linking the charged polymers together are ionic, and are generally stronger than bonds present within a surfactant-type membrane.

[0248] The bark is formed by coacervation of at least two charged polymers of opposite polarity (or polyelectrolyte) and preferably in the presence of a first polymer, of cationic type, and a second polymer, different from the first polymer, of anionic type. These two polymers act as membrane stiffening agents.

[0249] The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers can be caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, concentration of reagents, etc.).

[0250] The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two charged polymers of opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each droplet typically forms a shell that completely encapsulates the core of the droplet, and thus isolates the core of the droplet from the continuous aqueous phase.

[0251] Advantageously, one of the first and second charged polymers is a lipophilic polymer capable of being ionized upon contact with an aqueous phase, the other of the first and second charged polymers is a hydrophilic polymer capable of being ionized.

[0252] Anionic polymer

[0253] In the context of this description, the term "anionic type polymer" or "anionic polymer" means a polymer comprising anionic type chemical functions. We can also speak of an anionic polyelectrolyte.

[0254] By "anionic chemical function" we mean an AH chemical function capable of giving up a proton to give an A- function. Depending on the conditions of the environment in which it is found, the anionic polymer therefore contains chemical functions in AH form, or in the form of its conjugate base A-.

[0255] Examples of anionic chemical functions include carboxylic acid functions -COOH, possibly present in the form of carboxylate anion -COO-.

[0256] As an example of an anionic polymer, mention may be made of any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers of which at least a portion carries anionic chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one carboxylic acid function. It may, for example, be an anionic polymer comprising monomer units comprising at least one carboxylic acid chemical function.

[0257] Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water.

[0258] Examples of anionic type polymers suitable for implementing the invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, Cs-Cs alkyl acrylates, C10-C30 alkyl acrylates, C12-C22 alkyl methacrylates, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, hydroxyester acrylates, crosspolymer acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

[0259] According to the invention, an anionic type polymer is preferably a carbomer as described below. This polymer may also be a crosslinked acrylates / Cw-30 alkyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name: acrylates / Cw-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer).

[0260] According to one embodiment, the shell of the drops comprises at least one anionic polymer, such as for example a carbomer. In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "carbomer" means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer, resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore an optionally crosslinked poly(acrylic acid). Among the carbomers of the invention, mention may be made of those marketed under the names Tego®Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.

[0261] According to one embodiment, the term "carbomer" or "carbomer" or "Carbopol®" means a high molecular weight acrylic acid polymer crosslinked with allyl sucrose or allyl ethers of pentaerythritol (handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 emeEdition, plll). For example, these are Carbopol®910, Carbopol®934, Carbopol®934P, Carbopol®940, Carbopol®941, Carbopol®71 G, Carbopol®980, Carbopol®971 P or Carbopol®974P. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.

[0262] Carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.

[0263] A dispersion according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2%, and preferentially from 0.10% to 0.5%, of anionic polymer(s), in particular carbomer(s), relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

[0264] Cationic polymer

[0265] The drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, further comprise at least one cationic polymer. They may also comprise several cationic polymers. This cationic polymer is the one mentioned above which forms the bark by coacervation with the anionic polymer.

[0266] In the context of this application, and unless otherwise stated, the term "cationic polymer" or "cationic polymer" means a polymer comprising cationic chemical functions. It may also be referred to as a cationic polyelectrolyte.

[0267] Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or liposoluble.

[0268] In the context of this application, and unless otherwise stated, by "cationic type chemical function" is meant a chemical function B capable of capturing a proton to give a BH function +. Depending on the conditions of the environment in which it is found, the cationic polymer therefore contains chemical functions in B form, or in BH form. + , its conjugate acid. As an example of cationic chemical functions, we can cite the primary, secondary and tertiary amine functions, possibly present in the form of ammonium cations.

[0269] As an example of a cationic type polymer, we can cite any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers of which at least one part carries cationic type chemical functions, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.

[0270] Such monomers are, for example, aziridine, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

[0271] Examples of cationic polymers suitable for implementing the invention include amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine and secondary amine functions.

[0272] We can also cite derivatives of amodimethicone, such as for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers comprising amine functions.

[0273] According to one embodiment, the drops, and in particular the bark of said drops, comprise amodimethicone, which advantageously corresponds to the following formula:

[0274] [Chem 3] in which:

[0275] - Ri, R2 and R3, independently of each other, represent OH or CH3;

[0276] - R4 represents a -CH2- group or a -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent C3 or C4 alkylene radical;

[0277] - x is an integer between 10 and 5,000, preferably between 30 and 1,000, and better still between 80 and 300;

[0278] - y is an integer between 1 and 1,000, preferably between 2 and 1,000, and better between 4 and 100, and better between 5 and 20; and - z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and better is equal to 1.

[0279] The cationic polymer according to the invention may be one of the following commercial products: CAS 3131 from Nusil, KF 8005 S or KF 8004 from Shin Etsu, Silsoft AX or SF 1708 from Momentive and DC 8500, DC 2-2078 or DC 2-8566 from Dow Corning.

[0280] The cationic polymer according to the invention may be an amodimethicone such as, for example, one of the following commercial products: CAS 3131 from Nusil, KF 8005 S or KF 8004 from Shin Etsu, SF 1708 from Momentive and DC 2-8566 from Dow Corning.

[0281] According to another preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

[0282] [Chem 4]

[0283] HX 1 -R 1 -NH2(I) in which:

[0284] - X 1 represents -O-, -CH2- or -NH-, preferably -NH-,

[0285] - R 1 represents a divalent, linear, cyclic or branched alkylene radical, comprising from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 25 to 45 carbon atoms, better still from 30 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 34 to 36 carbon atoms, R 1which may include a cycloalkylene radical comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 6 carbon atoms, said cycloalkylene radical being optionally substituted by one or more alkyl chains comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0286] According to yet another preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula:

[0287] [Chem 5] in which:

[0288] - n is an integer from 1 to 5, preferably from 1 to 3, preferably equal to 1 or 2, - X 1 and X 2 , identical or different, represent, independently of one another, -O-, -CH2- or -NH-, preferably at least one of the groups X 1 and X 2 , or even X 1 and X 2 , representing -NH-,

[0289] - R 1 , R 2 and R 3, identical or different, represent independently of each other a divalent, linear, cyclic or branched alkylene radical, comprising from 20 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 25 to 45 carbon atoms, better still from 30 to 40 carbon atoms, and preferentially from 34 to 36 carbon atoms, R 1 , R 2 and R 3 which may include a cycloalkylene radical comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 6 carbon atoms, said cycloalkylene radical being optionally substituted by one or more alkyl chains comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms,

[0290] - R 4 and R 5 , identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H, OH or NH2, at least one of the groups R 4 and R 5 representing NH2.

[0291] According to the invention, a dispersion may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 2.5%, very particularly from 0.5% to 1%, by weight of cationic polymer(s) relative to the total weight of the phase comprising it, and in particular of the fatty phase.

[0292] Lipophilic cationic polymers and / or surfactants

[0293] As is apparent from the examples below, the presence in the fatty phase of at least one lipophilic cationic polymer and / or surfactant can make it possible to improve the properties of a dispersion according to the invention in terms of adhesion of the drops to each other. This is particularly the case when one of the two lipophilic gelling agents is at least one wax.

[0294] As lipophilic cationic polymers, those described above may be mentioned.

[0295] A lipophilic cationic surfactant according to the invention may be chosen from any lipophilic cationic surfactant known to those skilled in the art.

[0296] Preferably, the cationic surfactant may be chosen from those marketed by SurfactGreen under the names CosmeGreen ES1822+ (INCI: Arachidyl / Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl / Behenyl Alcohol) or CosmeGreen MB1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Betainate Mesylate), those marketed by Evonik under the name Varisoft EQ 90 (INCI: Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate) or Varisoft EQ 100 (INCI: Bis-(Isostearoyl / Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate), or those marketed by Inolex under the name KerazyneMB (INCI: Polyester-11), and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, a dispersion may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 2.5%, very particularly from 0.5% to 1%, by weight of lipophilic cationic polymer(s) and / or surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the phase(s) comprising it, and in particular of the fatty phase.

[0297] Additional compound(s)

[0298] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase of a dispersion according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional compound different from the aforementioned anionic and cationic polymers, surfactants, oils, pigments and lipophilic gelling agents.

[0299] According to the invention, the continuous aqueous phase and / or the dispersed fatty phase may also comprise powders; coloring agents; blurring effect fillers / soft-focus fillers, in particular as described in WO2019053236; emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in particular as described in EP2353577; hydrophilic texturizing agents (or hydrophilic gelling agents), in particular as described in FR3041251; preservatives; humectants; stabilizers; pH stabilizing agents, in particular a pH buffer (eg HEPES, PBS); chelators; emollients; etc. or any usual cosmetic additive; and mixtures thereof.

[0300] The continuous phase and / or the dispersed phase, in particular the fatty phase, of a dispersion according to the invention may also further comprise at least one active agent, in particular biological or cosmetic, preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecular agents, dermo-relaxing agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents, anti-aging agents, perfuming agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0301] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention does not comprise hydrophilic surfactant, vitamin E (or tocopherol acetate), magnesium sulfate, poloxamer, EDTA (or ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), and mixtures thereof.

[0302] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additional and / or active compound(s) mentioned above and / or their respective quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of a dispersion according to the invention, as well as their manufacturing processes, are not or are not substantially altered by the envisaged addition. In particular, the nature and / or the quantity of the additional and / or active compound(s) depend on the aqueous or oily nature of the phase considered and / or the process implemented (in particular of the “non-microfluidic” or “microfluidic” type). These adjustments fall within the competence of the person skilled in the art.

[0303] Preparation process

[0304] The dispersions according to the invention can be prepared by different processes.

[0305] Thus, the dispersions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple “non-microfluidic” process, namely by simple emulsification.

[0306] As in a conventional emulsion, an aqueous solution and a fatty solution are prepared separately. It is the addition, with stirring, of the fatty phase into the aqueous phase that creates the direct emulsion and therefore the dispersion according to the invention.

[0307] The viscosity of the aqueous phase and the shear force applied to the mixture are the two main parameters which influence the size (and therefore the macroscopic character) and the monodispersity of the drops of the dispersion according to the invention.

[0308] Those skilled in the art will know how to adjust the non-microfluidic process to satisfy the criterion of average diameter of the drops of the dispersion according to the invention.

[0309] The dispersions according to the invention can also be prepared according to a microfluidic process. A microfluidic process capable of manufacturing dispersions according to the invention are described in particular in WO2012 / 120043, WO2015 / 055748 or WO2019145424.

[0310] The different fluids, in particular their flow rates, can be implemented in a microfluidic process according to the invention in a hydrodynamic mode known as “dripping” or “jetting” (formation of a liquid jet at the outlet of the microfluidic device, then fragmentation of the jet in the ambient air under the effect of gravity).

[0311] The presence, in the fatty phase, of at least two gelling agents as described above, in particular heat-sensitive ones, may require adjustments to the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention. In particular, the process for preparing a dispersion according to the invention may comprise a step of heating (between 40°C and 150°C, in particular between 50°C and 90°C) at least the fatty phase and optionally the aqueous phase before mixing / bringing said fatty phase into contact with the aqueous phase and, where appropriate and in the case of a “non-microfluidic” process as mentioned above, maintaining this heating during stirring until the desired dispersion is obtained.

[0312] According to one embodiment, the process for preparing the dispersions of the invention comprises at least the following steps:

[0313] - optionally, heating an oily fluid Fl to a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C;

[0314] - optionally, heating an aqueous fluid FE, to a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C;

[0315] - bringing into contact an aqueous fluid FE and an oily fluid Fl as defined below; and

[0316] - the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid Fl, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of fluid FE, said drops optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of the drops from the fatty phase of the dispersion, in which:

[0317] - the oily fluid Fl comprises at least one pigment and at least two different lipophilic gelling agents and optionally in addition at least one oil, and

[0318] - the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and, optionally, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

[0319] According to one embodiment, a method according to the invention, in particular the step of forming the drops, may further comprise a step of injecting a solution for increasing the viscosity of the continuous aqueous phase of the fluid FE, in particular when the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one pH-dependent hydrophilic gelling agent, for example a carbomer. Preferably, the viscosity-increasing solution is aqueous. This viscosity-increasing solution is typically injected into the aqueous external fluid FE after formation of the dispersion according to the invention, and therefore after formation of the drops.

[0320] According to one embodiment, the viscosity increasing solution comprises a base, in particular an alkali hydroxide, such as sodium hydroxide. Depending on the pigment(s) used, a method for preparing a dispersion according to the invention may comprise the steps of: a) providing at least one pigment optionally pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment, then b) optionally grinding said at least one pigment, said grinding preferably taking place when the at least one pigment is not pretreated, c) dispersing the at least one pigment in at least one oily fluid F1, d) optionally, heating said oily fluid F1 and optionally the aqueous fluid FE, to a temperature of between 40°C and 150°C, preferably between 50°C and 90°C; e) bringing the aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid F1 into contact;and f) forming drops of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid F1, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase consisting of aqueous fluid FE, said drops optionally comprising a shell isolating the core of the drops from the fatty phase of the dispersion, in which the oily fluid F1 and the aqueous fluid FE are as described previously.;

[0321] Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to adjust the parameters of the manufacturing process to ensure its proper functioning, in particular so as to ensure the implementation of phases with suitable fluidity, achievable in particular by increasing the temperature of said phases. These adjustments fall within the general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

[0322] Uses

[0323] Preferably, a dispersion according to the invention can be used directly, following the abovementioned preparation processes, as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition. The dispersion according to the invention, when prepared using a microfluidic process as described above, can also be used as a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, after separation of the drops and redispersion of the latter in a second appropriate phase.

[0324] The invention also relates to the use of at least one dispersion according to the invention for introduction into a cosmetic composition.

[0325] The dispersions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetic field. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition, comprising at least one dispersion as defined above.

[0326] The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

[0327] The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising at least one dispersion as defined above in association with an acceptable physiological medium.

[0328] By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes or eyebrows, and preferably the skin.

[0329] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect in which the composition is to be packaged.

[0330] The presence of a physiologically acceptable medium can contribute to improving the conservation and / or preserving the integrity over time of the drops of a dispersion according to the invention.

[0331] According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is in the form of an aqueous gel, the viscosity of which is adapted, in particular to ensure the suspension of the drops according to the invention.

[0332] According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0333] These compositions are therefore intended to be applied in particular to the skin, lips or hair, and therefore for topical use.

[0334] Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a dispersion or composition according to the invention, as a makeup and / or care product for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

[0335] More particularly, a dispersion or composition according to the invention may for example be a mascara, a complexion product, such as a foundation, an eyeliner, an eyeshadow or blush, a lip product such as a lipstick or a lip gloss, an eyeshadow, complexion products or lip products, a BB cream, a CC cream, and preferably a foundation.

[0336] The dispersion or composition of the invention may be in the form of a single-phase or two-phase lotion, emulsion, gel, stick or cream. A dispersion or composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a complexion corrector, a tinted cream or a makeup base for the face or a makeup composition for the body.

[0337] The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment, in particular of makeup and / or care, preferably of makeup, of a keratin material, in particular of the skin, the lips or the hair, and very particularly of the skin, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin material of at least one dispersion or composition according to the invention.

[0338] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0339] The expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood inclusively, unless otherwise specified.

[0340] The quantities of the ingredients appearing in the examples are expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

[0341] The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope.

[0342] EXAMPLES

[0343] Unless otherwise indicated, the dispersions described below result from a microfluidic process as described above or in WO2017046305. The microfluidic device used is divided into two parts, a first part where the contact between the IF (or Fl) and the OF (or FE) is carried out hot (between 75 and 90°C) so as to form the dispersion, and a second part ensuring rapid cooling of the dispersion formed to accelerate the gelling kinetics of the drops and thus prevent the risks of coalescence of the drops post-formation (cooling temperature: between 5 and 28°C).

[0344] Example 1: Preparation of dispersions of pigmented macroscopic drops with ASL pigments Dispersion of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase are prepared. The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are described in tables 1 and 2 below.

[0345] [Table 1] [Table 2]

[0346] * For an oily phase comprising at least 25% pigments, rh-' 'logic i showed that the properties, particularly in terms of rigidity, of drops of such a fatty phase comprising 6% die Rheopearl KL2 are similar to drops comprising 10% of Estogel M.

[0347] Example 1 is based on 20 trials, 10 without amodimethicone (designated by the letter X) and 10 with amodimethicone (designated by the letter A). For illustrative purposes, the trial

[0348] 7 with amodimethicone will be referred to as “Trial 7A”.

[0349] Preparation protocol:

[0350] For OF: Phenoxyethanol, Pentylene Glycol and EDTA are incorporated into the water.

[0351] The mixture is stirred for 5 min.

[0352] The carbomer is then dispersed in the previous mixture while stirring for 30 minutes using a deflocculating paddle.

[0353] Glycerin is then added and the mixture is stirred for 10 min.

[0354] The soda is then added and the solution is mixed for 10 minutes. For IF:

[0355] Amodimethicone, when present, is added to part of the Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC and then mixed using a magnetic bar for 5 min.

[0356] The mixture is heated to 80°C and the lipophilic gelling agents are added with stirring using a deflocculator until a homogeneous solution is obtained (= Solution 1). In parallel, a pigment ground product is prepared by mixing the pigments with the remaining Labrafac CC and Cetiol CC with stirring (= Solution 2). Solutions 1 and 2 are mixed with stirring using a deflocculator at 80°C until a homogeneous solution is obtained. The IF solution is kept hot (80°C) and stirred and is injected into the microfluidic device using a gear pump (Reference HNPM).

[0357] For BF: the soda and water are mixed using a magnetic bar for 5 min.

[0358] In these tests, the following flow rates were used:

[0359] [Table 3]

[0360] The dispersions obtained comprise drops having an average diameter greater than 100 pm, in particular an average diameter of approximately 1000 pm.

[0361] Observed parameters:

[0362] Each test is then packaged in several 30 ml glass containers filled to half. A stability analysis is carried out for 1 month at Room Temperature (RT), 50°C and cycle with a microscope evaluation at D+7, D+14 and M+1, during which the dispersions are observed under the microscope in terms of oil leakage, adhesion of drops to the walls of the packaging, aggregation of drops between them and stickiness. By "cycle", we mean a cycle of temperature variation between +40°C and -10°C over periods of 8 hours for each temperature. Scoring criteria: [Table 4]

[0363] [Table 5]

[0364] A score of 3 on at least one of the above parameters will be disqualifying. Results:

[0365] [Table 6]

[0366] In view of the above, the implementation of a gelling system with at least two different lipophilic gelling agents makes it possible to improve the performance of a dispersion of macroscopic drops of a pigmented fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, and in particular to achieve a satisfactory compromise between oil leakage, adhesion, aggregation and stickiness.

[0367] Considering all these parameters, the best performance is obtained with test 8.

[0368] When the gelling system includes at least one wax, it is noted that the presence of amodimethicone may be advantageous in reducing adhesion.

[0369] Five additional trials were conducted, which differ from Trial 8A by replacing amodimethicone in favor of, respectively:

[0370] - CosmeGreen ES1822+ (INCI: Arachidyl / Behenyl Betainate Esylate (and) Arachidyl / Behenyl Alcohol) at a concentration of 2.5%,

[0371] - CosmeGreen MB1618 (Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Betainate Mesylate) at a concentration of 2.5%,

[0372] - Kerazyne MB (INCI: Polyester-11) at a concentration of 0.25%,

[0373] - Varisoft EQ 100 (INCI: Bis-(lsostearoyl / Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium Methosulfate) at a concentration of 0.5%, and

[0374] - of the compound of formula (III) described in the patent application filed under no. FR2205166 at a concentration of 0.4%.

[0375] Similar results have been observed, particularly with the compound of formula (III) described above and in the patent application filed under No. FR2205166.

[0376] Note that tests 5 to 9 all remain with satisfactory properties in terms of high coverage and hydration.

[0377] Example 2: Influence of the weight ratio of “first and second lipophilic gelling agents”

[0378] From the 5X test of Example 1, 5 other dispersions are prepared which differ only in the weight ratio of "first and second lipophilic gelling agents", as described in Table 7 below. [Table 7]

[0379] Results :

[0380] [Table 8]

[0381] After tests at different weight ratios of "Estogel M / RheoPearl KL2", we note that: - the higher the percentage of Rheopearl KL2, the more the oil leak phenomena decrease; and

[0382] - the higher the percentage of Rheopearl KL2, the higher the drop aggregation phenomena, which can be counteracted with the use of amodimethicone. The best results are obtained with tests SXiii, 5Xiv and 5Xv, in the following order 5Xiv > 5Xiii > 5Xv. Similar results were obtained by replacing Estogel M with OILKEMIA™ 5S polymer (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79).

[0383] Example 3: Preparation of pigmented macroscopic drop dispersions with UNIPURE pigments

[0384] Dispersions of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase are prepared which differ from those described in Example 1 by replacing the ASL pigments with UNIPURE pigments from Sensient. The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are described in Table 9 below.

[0385] [Table 9]

[0386] The composition of the aqueous phase (OF) and the base (BF), the preparation protocol, the flow rates, the observed parameters and the scoring criteria are identical to those described in example 1.

[0387] The results observed are similar, or even slightly superior, to those obtained in example 1. Example 4: Comparison between a pigmented dispersion of macroscopic drops according to the invention and dispersions outside the invention A dispersion of macroscopic drops of a gelled fatty phase dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase according to the invention 11 and two comparative compositions C1 and C2 outside the invention are prepared, the comparative composition C1 being close to that disclosed in application WO2023 / 094468 (FR3129286). The compositions of the phases (fluids) allowing the preparation of the dispersions are described in tables 10 and 11 below.

[0388] [Table 10]

[0389] QSP: sufficient quantity for

[0390] [Table 11]

[0391] Preparation protocol:

[0392] The protocol for preparing dispersions 11, C1 and C2 is similar to that described in example 1 above, namely by implementing a microfluidic method as described above or in WO2017046305.

[0393] Rating criteria:

[0394] The stability of the manufacturing process, assessed according to the occurrence of one or more phenomena impacting the manufacturing process described in tables 12 and 13 below, namely:

[0395] - ejection of the fatty phase according to a dripping mode or a jetting mode;

[0396] - nozzle blockage; and / or

[0397] - formation of non-spherical drop or no drop produced, is studied for each dispersion 11 (according to the invention), and C1 and C2 (outside the invention).

[0398] The following notation is performed:

[0399] [Table 12]

[0400] Results :

[0401] [Table 13] In view of Table 13 above, the implementation of a gelling system with at least two gelling agents chosen from at least one polyurethane lipophilic gelling agent and at least one wax allows compatibility with a manufacturing process, in particular microfluidic, and makes it possible to access a dispersion of spherical macroscopic drops, unlike lipophilic gelling agents of the solid or liquid butter type, such as those disclosed in document WO2023 / 094468

[0402] (FR3129286).

Claims

CLAIMS 1. Dispersion comprising a fatty phase in the form of drops dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, preferably in the form of a gel, the fatty phase comprising at least one pigment and / or at least one reflective particle, and at least two lipophilic gelling agents, preferably heat-sensitive, chosen from: - at least one ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s); - at least one lipophilic polyurethane gelling agent chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Polyurethane-79 and / or Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Hydrogenated Poly(C6-20 Olefin) (and) HDI / Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer; And - at least one wax.

2. Dispersion according to claim 1, in which the ester of sugar / polysaccharide and fatty acid(s) is chosen from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), esters of inulin and fatty acid(s), esters of glycerol and fatty acid(s), and mixtures thereof, preferably from esters of dextrin and fatty acid(s), and in particular from dextrin palmitate.

3. Dispersion according to claim 1 or 2, in which the two lipophilic gelling agents are chosen from: - at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s); - Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride; And - at least one wax.

4. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which: - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride; - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s) and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax; or - the first lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from Castor Oil / IPDI Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride and the second lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from at least one wax.

5. Dispersion according to the preceding claim, in which the weight ratio “first lipophilic gelling agent(s) / second lipophilic gelling agent(s)” is between 50:50 and 25:75, preferably between 45:55 and 30:70, and better still between 35:65 and 30:

70.

6. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises between 1% and 30%, preferably between 2.5% and 20%, and in particular between 5% and 12%, by weight of lipophilic gelling agents relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

7. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the fatty phase comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, better still between 15% and 35%, preferably between 20% and 35%, and very particularly between 25% and 35%, by weight of pigment(s) relative to the total weight of the dispersed fatty phase.

8. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersion comprises between 1% and 60%, preferably between 5% and 50%, in particular between 10% and 40%, and in particular between 15% and 30%, by weight of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

9. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the drops having a diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm represent a volume greater than or equal to 60%, or even greater than or equal to 70%, preferably greater than or equal to 80%, and better still greater than or equal to 90% of the total volume of the dispersed phase and / or at least 60%, or even at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, and better still at least 90%, of the drops have an average diameter greater than or equal to 100 μm.

10. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

11. Dispersion according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersed fatty phase further comprises at least one lipophilic cationic polymer and / or at least one lipophilic cationic surfactant.

12. Dispersion according to the preceding claim, in which the dispersion comprises from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.05% to 5%, better still from 0.1% to 2.5%, and very particularly from 0.5% to 1%, by weight of lipophilic cationic polymer(s) and / or surfactant(s) relative to the total weight of the phase comprising it.

13. Process for preparing a dispersion as defined according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the following steps: - optionally, heating an oily fluid Fl, to a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C, preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C; - optionally, heating an aqueous fluid FE, to a temperature of from 40°C to 150°C; preferably from 60°C to 130°C, and better still from 80°C to 110°C; - bringing into contact an aqueous fluid FE and the oily fluid Fl; and - the formation of drops of fatty phase, consisting of the oily fluid Fl, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase, consisting of fluid FE, in which: - the oily fluid Fl comprises at least one pigment and at least two lipophilic gelling agents and optionally in addition at least one oil, and - the aqueous fluid FE comprises at least water and, optionally, at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

14. Composition, in particular cosmetic, comprising at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 12.

15. Non-therapeutic process for cosmetic treatment, in particular makeup and / or care, preferably makeup, of a keratin material comprising at least one step of application to said keratin material of at least one dispersion according to any one of claims 1 to 12 or of at least one cosmetic composition according to claim 14.

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