High strength retinol compositions
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- EP · EP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- THE BOOTS CO PLC
- Filing Date
- 2024-07-26
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-03
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions struggle to maintain the stability of high concentrations of retinol, leading to degradation issues due to exposure to oxygen, light, heat, acids, or heavy metals, which compromises the effectiveness and safety of the product.
A composition combining at least 0.1 wt.% of a retinoid with water-soluble and oil-soluble antioxidants, along with specific amounts of a thickener and emollient, provides enhanced long-term stability for retinol, even at high concentrations.
The described composition achieves improved stability and bioavailability of retinol, maintaining its effectiveness over time while ensuring the overall stability of the cosmetic product.
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Abstract
Description
[0001] High Strength Retinol Compositions
[0002] Field of the Invention
[0003] The present invention relates to compositions and methods of using such compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to high strength retinol compositions designed to deliver anti-ageing skin benefits to users.
[0004] Background of the Invention
[0005] It is well known in the field of cosmetic composition design and manufacture that skin is negatively impacted by endogenous and exogenous factors. Endogenous factors include hormonal fluctuations, inflammation, disease, and / or the normal ageing process. Exogenous factors affecting skin include environmental impact, for example, sunlight, wind abrasion, humidity and pollutants. The impact of these factors on the skin result in problems associated with ageing skin such as the formation of wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, enlarged pores, skin discoloration, surface roughness and loss of elasticity.
[0006] A variety of products are available over-the-counter and by prescription which are designed to treat the signs of ageing and / or promote healthier skin. There has been recent interest in the use of vitamin A derived products in this context. Vitamin A and its derivatives are found naturally in the body and in the skin where it needs to be converted by cells into retinoic acid to be effective. Retinoic acid applied topically is therefore highly efficacious as it does not require any conversion but it has potential for adverse effects on the skin and it is therefore only available by prescription. Since a large proportion of consumers are not able to access retinoic acid containing products, cosmetic product manufacturers have instead looked toward retinyl esters and particularly retinol in over-the-counter products to treat the signs of ageing and improve the quality or appearance of skin. Of the retinoids, retinol is the most proven and effective cosmetic alternative to retinoic acid. It binds to surface cell receptors before it is taken into skin cells and is then converted into retinoic acid which, acting via the nuclear receptors, Retinoic acid receptor (RAR) and Retinoid X receptor, (RXR) upregulates more than 500 genes involved in skin renewal, regeneration and homeostasis. This particularly benefits sun exposed skin sites such as the face, resulting in reduced signs of ageing, such as the evening of skin tone and reduced pigmentation. Providing increased concentrations of retinol within the composition enhances the benefits to the skin.
[0007] Alternatives to retinoid acid other than retinol are also used in cosmetics, including retinal and retinol esters such as retinyl palmitate.
[0008] One of the main challenges in retinoid-containing cosmetic products is stabilising the retinoid. Retinol exposed to oxygen, light, heat, acids or heavy metals such as iron, can degrade. Degradation products include beta-ionone, kitol, or anhydro vitamin A. Identifying systems that stabilises retinoids in a cosmetically and commercially acceptable composition is therefore essential in ensuring that the retinoid is delivered to the skin instead of a degradation product.
[0009] Retinyl palmitate is commonly used as the esterification stabilises the compound. However, the impacts on the skin are reduced compared with retinol or retinoic acid.
[0010] Retinoids, such as retinol, stabilised by encapsulation systems are known. Whilst effective, encapsulation systems still show retinol degradation, and this is increased by elevated temperatures or exposure to light. Systems in which the retinoid is stabilised with antioxidants are also known. Examples of such antioxidants include butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) , ascorbic acid and derivatives, tocopherol and esters thereof, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) , and phenyl naphthalene. None- the- less, degradation of the retinoid still occurs in cosmetic compositions, and stabilisation therefore also relies on physical methods, such as oxygen and light impermeable packaging, manufacturing and packaging under inert atmospheres, temperature-controlled storage and transport, and short time periods within which the consumer must use the product to obtain the cosmetic benefits of the retinoid.
[0011] Formulating cosmetic compositions for retinoid stability must be balanced against the overall stability of a cosmetic composition. Often, ensuring that the retinoid is stable can require components that cause the emulsion to separate, or pH to degrade, overtime.
[0012] As more retinoid is incorporated in a composition these challenges of stabilisation also increase. The necessary increase in the stabilising agents required to stabilise the retinoid reduces the space in the composition for other components required to stabilise the composition.
[0013] There is therefore a need for cosmetic compositions formulated to ensure both that the high levels of retinoid are present, that the retinoid has long term stability, and that the composition as a whole has long term stability.
[0014] Summary of the Invention
[0015] The present inventors have surprisingly found that the combination of a retinoid with a water soluble and an oil soluble antioxidant, and with a specific amount of thickener and emollient provides a stable composition suitable for cosmetic use wherein the retinoid has enhanced long term stability, even when present in high concentration.
[0016] The present invention therefore provides in a first aspect a composition comprising:
[0017] (a) at least 0. 1 wt. % of a retinoid component selected from retinol, retinal, retinoic acid or combinations thereof;
[0018] (b) one or more water-soluble antioxidant;
[0019] (c) one or more oil-soluble antioxidant;
[0020] (d) from 0.1 to 3 wt. % of a thickener component comprising polyacrylic acid, poly acrylate, polyacrylamide, polysaccharide or combinations thereof; and
[0021] (e) from 4 to 20 wt. % of an emollient component comprising a benzoic acid ester, a silicone oil, a triglyceride or a combination thereof.
[0022] In a second aspect, the present invention provides a use of the composition of the first aspect for a topical cosmetic application to the skin.
[0023] In a third aspect, the present invention provides a use of the composition of the first aspect as a non- therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve the condition of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or imperfections and / or skin firmness and elasticity.
[0024] In a fourth aspect, the present invention provides a method comprising applying the composition of the first aspect to the skin of a subject. In a fifth aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for improving the condition and / or appearance of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or reduce imperfections (e. g. , pigmentation) and / or improve skin firmness and elasticity, comprising topically administering the composition of the first aspect.
[0025] Detailed Description of the Invention
[0026] The present invention is directed towards a composition having a high concentration of retinol, which provides enhanced retinoid stability whilst retaining overall composition stability.
[0027] Retinoid
[0028] The present invention comprises at least 0.1 wt% of one or more retinoid selected from retinol, retinal, retinoic acid or combinations thereof. Retinol may comprise retinol, retinol isomers or combinations thereof. Retinal, also known as retinaldehyde, may comprise retinal, retinal isomers, or combinations thereof.
[0029] The term "retinol isomers" comprises all-trans-retinol, 13 -cis-retinol, 1 1 -cis-retinol, 9- cis-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-retinol. Preferred isomers are all-trans-retinol, 13 -cis -retinol, 3 ,4-didehydro-retinol, 9-cis-retinol. The retinoid or the retinol may comprise or consist of all-trans-retinol.
[0030] The term “retinal isomers” comprises 1 1 -cis retinal and all-trans-retinal. The retinoid or the retinal may comprise or consist of all-trans-retinal.
[0031] The retinoid may be an all-trans-retinoid, comprising all-trans-retinol, all-trans-retinal, all-trans-retinoic acid, or combinations thereof. The retinoid may be selected from all- trans-retinol, all-trans-retinal, or combinations thereof.
[0032] Retinoids can become unstable when exposed to light, temperature changes and oxygen, degrading to less biologically active forms. Previous technology addressed this instability through encapsulation of the retinoid. Encapsulation is designed to protect the retinoid species to prevent or at least reduce degradation, thereby maximising the bio availability of retinoid to the skin in use. A variety of mechanisms and materials have been described in the prior art for encapsulating retinoid. Examples of encapsulating materials include polymers, surfactant -based vesicles or liposomes. Retinoids in the prior art may be encapsulated with a material selected from the group consisting of sugar-based emulsifier, co-emulsifier, a positively charged molecule, solvent and combinations thereof. One example of an encapsuled retinoid raw material ingredient is available commercially under the trade name InuMax sold by Evonik. Other commercially available encapsulated versions of retinol include Cyclasphere Retinol from BASF, Microsponge Cl 16A, N720RE and N709RE from Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions and Spherulite-RlO from Givaudan.
[0033] The present inventors have found that the combination of a retinoid system stabilised with a water-soluble antioxidant and an oil- soluble antioxidant, and with a specific amount of thickener and emollient provides a stable composition suitable for cosmetic use wherein the retinol has enhanced long term stability, even when present in high concentration.
[0034] The system of the present invention utilises one or more water-soluble antioxidants and one or more oil soluble antioxidant to stabilise the retinoid. Antioxidants are substances that reduce or prevent the oxidation of substances, either directly by reacting with free radicals or indirectly by inhibiting the production of free radicals.
[0035] The retinoid in the retinoid system may be non-encapsulated. By non -encapsulated, it is meant that the retinoid is not contained in or absorbed onto another material that separates it from other components in the composition. If the composition is an emulsion, a non-encapsulated retinoid is in contact with all components of the oil phase, where it resides.
[0036] The composition of the present invention comprises a water-soluble antioxidant. The water-soluble antioxidant may comprise ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof, sodium ascorbate, sodium sulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium thiosulfite, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate, isoascorbic acid, thioglycerol, thiosorbitol, thiourea, thioglycolic acid, 3 cysteine hydrochloride, 1 ,4-diazobicyclo(2.2.2)octane or a combination thereof. The water-soluble antioxidant may comprise or consist of ascorbic acid or a derivative thereof, isoascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof. Ascorbic acid derivative may comprise ascorbyl glucoside, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ethyl ascorbic acid or a combination thereof. The water-soluble antioxidant may comprise or consist of sodium ascorbate.
[0037] The water-soluble antioxidant may be present in the composition in an amount of at least 0. 1 wt. %, at least 0.2 wt. % or at least 0.3 wt. %. For example, the one or more water-soluble antioxidant may be present in an amount of from 0. 1 to 10 wt.%, such as from 0. 1 to 8 wt.%, or from 0. 1 to 6 wt. %, or from 0.1 to 4 wt.% , or from 0.1 to 3 wt.%, or from 0.2 wt. % to 8 wt. % , or from 0.2 wt.% to 6 wt. % , or from 0.2 wt. % to 3 wt.%, or from 0.3 wt. % to 6 wt. %, or from 0.3 wt.% to 3 wt.%, or from 0.3 to 2 wt.%, or from 0.3 to 1.5 wt. % , or from 0.3 to 1 wt. % .
[0038] The one or more oil-soluble antioxidant may comprise butylated hydroxy toluene (BHT), ascorbyl palmitate, butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) , tocopherol (e. g. [alpha]- tocopherol) or a derivative thereof, phenyl-[alpha] -naphthylamine or combinations thereof. The oil-soluble antioxidant may comprise or consist of tocopherol (e.g. alphatocopherol or gamma tocopherol). Derivatives of tocopherol may include tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate or a combination thereof. The oil- soluble antioxidant may comprise (R,R,R)- alpha-tocopherol, (all-rac)-alpha-tocopherol or a combination thereof.
[0039] In recent years the use of BHA and BHT is raising safety concerns and their use may be restricted in some countries. Thus, it may be that the one or more oil-soluble antioxidant does not comprise BHT, BHA or a combination thereof. It may be that the composition is free from one or both of BHT and BHA.
[0040] The one or more oil-soluble antioxidant may be present in the composition in an amount of at least 0.01 wt.%, such as 0.05 wt.%, 0. 1 wt.%, 0.2 wt.% or 0.3 wt. % . For example, the one or more oil- soluble antioxidant may be present in the composition in an amount of from 0.01 to 10 wt.%, such as from 0.05 to 10 wt.%, or from 0.05 to 8 wt. %, or from 0.05 to 6 wt. %, or from 0.05 to 4 wt.%, or from 0.05 to 3 wt.%, or from 0.05 to 1 wt.%, or from 0. 1 to 10 wt. %, or from 0. 1 to 6 wt. % , or from 0. 1 to 4 wt. % , or from 0.1 to 2 wt. % , or from O. l to 1 wt.%, or from 0.3 to 10 wt.%, or from 0.3 to 6 wt.%, or from 0.3 to 4 wt. % , or from 0.3 to 2 wt. % , or from 0.3 to 1 wt. % . The ratio of (a) retinoid: (b) water-soluble antioxidant: (c) oil-soluble antioxidant may be 1 :at least 1 : at least 0.1. For example, the weight ratio of (a) :(b):(c) may be from 1 : 1 :0.1 to 1 : 100:100, or from 1 : 1: 1 to 1 : 10:3, or from 1 : 1: 1 to 1 : 10:5, or from 1:5:1 to 1 : 10: 1 , or from 1 :8:2 to 1 : 10:3, or from 1:1:1 to 1 : 5: 10, or 1:1:1 to 1 : 3: 10, or 1:1:5: to 1:1:10, or 1:2:8 to 1:3:10.
[0041] The composition of the present invention may comprise retinoid as defined above stabilised by sodium ascorbate as the one or more water-soluble anti-oxidant and tocopherol as the one or more oil-soluble antioxidant.
[0042] The composition may further comprise (f) a triglyceride. Triglyceride is an emollient. The triglyceride maybe a C3 to C16 triglyceride, for example a C6 to Cl 2 triglyceride. Examples include tripalmitin and caprylic / capric triglyceride. In one example the triglyceride is caprylic / capric triglyceride.
[0043] The triglyceride may be present in a (a) retinoid: (f) triglyceride ratio of Eat least 10. The ratio of (a) retinoid: (b) water-soluble antioxidant: (c) oil-soluble antioxidant: (f) triglyceride may be l:at least 1: at least 0.1:10. For example, the weight ratio of (a):(b):(c):(f) may be from 1:1:0.1:10 to 1:100:100:100, or 1:1:1:10 to 1:5:10:50, or 1:1:1:10 to 1:3:10:50, or 1:1:5:10 to 1:1:10:50, or 1:2:8:10 to 1:3:10:50, or from 1:1:1:10 to 1:10:5:100,.
[0044] The retinoid may be presentin an amount of atleastO.l wt.%, suchas at least0.2 wt.%, or at least 0.3 wt.%. For example, the retinoid may be present in an amount of from 0.1 wt.% to 3 wt. %, or 0.2 wt.% to 3 wt. %, or 0.3 wt. % to 3 wt. %, or 0.2 to 2 wt. %, or 0.3 to 1.5 wt.%.
[0045] By using a high strength retinoid composition, such as a composition comprising at least 0.1 wt.% retinol, retinoic acid, and / or retinal, particularly at least 0.3 wt.% retinol, retinoic acid, and / or retinal, a much more significant beneficial effect on skin renewal, regeneration and homeostasis can be achieved compared with compositions comprising less than 0.1 wt.% retinol, retinoic acid, and / or retinal. A retinoid stabilised by a water-soluble antioxidant and an oil- soluble antioxidant is commercially available under the trade name RetiSTAR (BASF). The retinoid of the present invention may be provided to the composition in RetiSTAR (BASF) .
[0046] Stabilised Composition
[0047] The present inventors have surprisingly found that using a retinoid, water-soluble antioxidant and an oil-soluble antioxidant in combination with specific amounts of a thickener component and specific amounts of an emollient component results in a stable composition in which the retinoid has better stability than a retinoid, water-soluble antioxidant and an oil- soluble antioxidant without the specific amounts of thickener component and emollient component.
[0048] Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that these components are providing stability to the retinoid by two mechanisms. The thickener reduces the amount of free water in the composition by binding with the water. Through this mechanism it is theorised that the amount of water available to participate in the oxidation of the retinoid is reduced. The specific amounts of thickener and the emollient in the composition also increase the stability of the oil phase in which the retinol resides in the composition. This stabilised oil phase more effectively excludes water and oxygen, meaning the retinoid is protected from oxidation by these compounds.
[0049] Thickener Component
[0050] The composition comprises from 0. 1 to 3 wt. % of a thickener component.
[0051] The thickener component may comprise or consist of polyacrylic acid, polyacrylate, polyacrylamide, polysaccharide or combinations thereof.
[0052] Typically, thickeners are added to compositions to modify the rheology of the composition such that the rheology is suitable for the intended application. In the present invention, it has been found that they both stabilise the composition and the retinoid in the composition. Thickeners may also be referred to as viscosity modifying agents or gelling agents. Polyacrylic acid may include homopolymers and co-polymers. The acrylic acid polymer may or may not be cross-linked to form a crosspolymer. Polyacrylic acid may also be referred to as carbomer.
[0053] The polyacrylate may be an alkyl acrylate crosspolymer or copolymer. The polyacrylate may be selected from acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / beheneth- 25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polyacrylate- 13, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, or combinations thereof.
[0054] The polyacrylamide may include homopolymers and co-polymers. The polyacrylamide may be selected from polyacrylamide, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, ammonium acrylo yl dimeth yltaurate / VP copolymer or combinations thereof.
[0055] Acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is a co-polymer. The formation of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer occurs when C l 0-30 acrylate is combined with monomers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. While carbomers are polymers of acrylic acid monomers, acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer is comprised of a mixture of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Particular acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer for use in the polymer blends and compositions of the instant case is CARBOPOL ULTREZ-21 available from Lubrizol, or Pemulen EZ-4U available from Lubrizol, both having the INCI name: “acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer.”
[0056] The polysaccharide may comprise cellulose, modified cellulose such as hydroxyethyl cellulose or hydroxymethyl cellulose, hemicellulose, lignocellulose, starch, inulin, guar gum, xanthan gum, pullulan, agar-agar, sodium, potassium or ammonium alginate, carrageenan, dextran, furcellaran, gellan gum, gum arabic, gum tragacanth, hyaluronic acid, konjac mannan, lignin sulfonate, carob gum, partially N- acetylated chitin, pectin, polydextrose, rhamsan gum, galacto mannan, alkyl galactomannan (e.g. C1 -C5 alkyl galactomannan) , welan gum, scleotium gum, acacia Senegal gum, or combinations thereof. For example, the polysaccharide may comprise or consist of modified cellulose, xanthan gum, carrageenan, galactomannan, alkyl galactomannan, gum Arabic, scleotium gum, acacia Senegal gum, or combinations thereof. The polysaccharide may comprise or consist of xanthan gum. The polysaccharide may have a molecular weight of 10,000 to 20,000,000 grams per mole, for example 30,000 to 10,000,000 grams per mole.
[0057] The thickener may comprise or consist of acrylates / C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium aery loyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, xanthan gum, alkyl galactomannan, or combinations thereof. For example, the thickener may comprise or consist of the combination of acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer, and xanthan gum.
[0058] The thickener is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1 to 3 wt.%. For example, the thickener may be present in an amount of from 0.3 to 3 wt. % , 0.5 to 3 wt. % , 0.7 to 3 wt.%, 0.1 to 2.5 wt.%, 0.1 to 2 wt.%, or 0. 1 to 1 .5 wt.%. The (d) thickener may also be present in a weight ratio (a) retinoid:(d) thickener of from 1 :1 to 1 : 30, such as 1 : 1 to 1 :20.
[0059] Emollient Component
[0060] The composition comprises from 4 to 20 wt.% of an emollient component. The emollient component comprises a benzoic acid ester, a silicone oil, a triglyceride or combinations thereof.
[0061] Typically, emollients are added to compositions to soothe and soften the skin. In the present invention, it has been found that they both stabilise the composition and the retinoid in the composition.
[0062] Benzoic acid esters are organic compounds made of benzoic acid with the hydroxyl functional group is substituted for a different functional group. Benzoic acid esters of the present invention may include or consist of alkyl benzoates, otherwise known as alcohol benzoates, wherein the alcohol component has a carbon chain length from C3 to C20, for example C5 to C20, CI O to C20, C 12 to C20, C3 to C15, CIO to C15 , or C12 to Cl 5. The benzoic acid ester of the present invention may comprise or consist of C12- 15 alkyl benzoate.
[0063] The silicone oil may comprise or consist of dimethicone, dimethiconol, or a combination thereof. The silicone oil may comprise or consist of dimethicone. Dimethicone may comprise medium and high molecular weight dimethiconealkyl substituted dimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone and caprylyl methicone, or combinations thereof. The molecular weight of dimethicone may be defined by the viscosity of the resultant fluid, for example, the dimethicone may be defined as a 20 centistoke (Cst) dimethicone. The silicone oil may therefore comprise or consist of a 1 to 1000 Cst dimethicone, such as a 1 . 5 to 800 Cst dimethicone, a 2 to 600 Cst dimethicone, or a 10 to 50 Cst dimethicone.
[0064] The silicone oil may comprise or consist of dimethiconol. Dimethiconol may comprise medium and high molecular weight dimethiconols.
[0065] The emollient may comprise or consist of a triglyceride. The triglyceride maybe a C3 to Cl 6 triglyceride, for example a C6 to Cl 2 triglyceride. Examples include tripalmitin and caprylic / capric triglyceride. In one example the triglyceride is caprylic / capric triglyceride.
[0066] The emollient component may comprise or consist of C12-15 alkyl benzoate, glycerin, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, or combinations thereof. For example, the emollient may comprise or consist of the combination of C12- 15 alkyl benzoate, glycerin, caprylyl glycol and ethylhexyl glycerin.
[0067] The emollient component is present in the composition in an amount of from 4 to 20 wt. % . For example, the emollient may be present in an amount of from 4.5 to 10 wt.%, 5 to 10 wt. % , 5.5 to 6 wt. %, 4 to 18 wt. %, 4 to 15 wt. %, 4 to 10 wt. %, 4 to 9.5 wt.%, 4 to 8.5 wt.%, 4 to 8 wt.%, 4 to 7.5 wt.% or 4 to 7 wt.% . The (e) emollient may also be present in a weight ratio (a) retinoid: (e) emollient of 1 : 1 to 1 :2000, such as from 1:10 to 1 : 100.
[0068] The emollient component may be water insoluble. That is the emollient component may have a solubility in water of less than O. lg / lOOg at 20°C. If the composition is an emulsion, the emollient may sit in the oil-phase. Stabilising Actives
[0069] The inventors have further identified several actives that further contribute to the stability of retinol. These actives are (i) pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, (ii) camellia j apo nica flower extract, (hi) quercus petraea fruit extract, (iv) phyllanthus emblica, (v) PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, (vi) bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxybenzylmalonate, (vii) triolein and (viii) dimethylmethoxy chromanol. In the presence of these stabilising actives, the stability of retinol in the composition is improved over compositions in which these actives are not present.
[0070] The composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more of these stabilising actives (i) to (viii) .
[0071] It may be that one or more of these stabilising actives (i) to (viii) are used instead of the water-soluble antioxidant, the oil- soluble antioxidant, the thickener and the emollient as defined above to stabilise the retinoid in the composition. Such a composition will be referred to herein as a retinoid composition with actives.
[0072] The composition of the present invention or the retinoid composition with actives may comprise one or more of (i) pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, (ii) herb ext camellia j aponica flower extract, (iii) herb ext quercus petraea fruit extract, (iv) nat ext a phyllanthus emblica, (v) PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, (vi) bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxybenzylmalonate, (vii) triolein, and (viii) dimethylmethoxy chromanol, such as two or more, three or more, four or more, five or more, six or more, or a combination of all of stabilising actives (i) to (viii) .
[0073] The one or more of the stabilising actives may be present in an amount of at least 0.01 wt. % , such as at least 0.05 wt.%, such as at least 0.1 wt.%, such as at least 1 wt.%, such as at least 3 wt. %, at least 5 wt.% or at least 7 wt.%, from 0.01 to 15 wt.%, from 1 to 12 wt. % from 1 to 10 wt. %, from 3 to 12 wt. % , or from 5 to 12 wt. %. The one or more of the stabilising actives may be present in an amount no more than 20 wt.%, such as no more than 15 wt. % , no more than 12 wt. % or no more than 10 wt. % .
[0074] The composition of the present invention or the retinoid composition with actives may comprise specific amounts of each stabilising active. For example, the composition may comprise from 0.01 to 1 wt. % of (i) pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, such as 0.05 to 0.5 wt.%. The composition may comprise from 0.01 to 4 wt. % of (ii) herb ext camellia japonica flower extract, such as from 1 to 3 wt. % . The composition may comprise from 0.01 to 4 wt. % of (iii) herb ext quercus petraea fruit extract, such as from 1 to 3 wt. % . The composition may comprise from 0.01 to 4 wt. % of (iv) nat ext a phyllanthus emblica, such as from 1 to 3 wt. %. The composition may comprise from 0.01 to 4 wt. % of (v) PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, such as 1 to 3 wt. % . The composition may comprise from 0.01 to 4 wt. % of (vi) bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxybenzylmalonate, such as from 0. 1 to 2. 5 wt.%. The composition may comprise from 0 to 4 wt. % of ( vii) triolein, such as from 1 to 3 wt. % . The composition may comprise from 0 to 4 wt.% of (viii) dimethylmethoxy chromanol, such as from 1 to 3 wt. %
[0075] The composition of the present invention or the retinoid composition with actives may comprise specific amounts of each stabilising active in combination with the other stabilising actives. For example, the composition may comprise from 0 to 1 wt.% of (i) pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, such as 0.05 to 0.5 wt.%, in combination with from 0 to 4 wt. % of (ii) herb ext camellia japonica flower extract, such as from 1 to 3 wt.%, in combination with from 0 to 4 wt.% of (iii) herb ext quercus petraea fruit extract, such as from 1 to 3 wt. %, in combination with from 0 to 4 wt.% of (iv) nat ext a phyllanthus emblica, such as from 1 to 3 wt. % , in combination with from 0 to 4 wt. % of (v) PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, such as 1 to 3 wt. % , in combination with from 0 to 4 wt.% of (vi) bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxybenzylmalonate, such as from 0. 1 to 2. 5 wt. %, in combination with from 0 to 4 wt. % of (vii) triolein, such as from 1 to 3 wt. % , in combination with from 0 to 4 wt. % of (viii) dimethylmethoxy chromanol, such as from 1 to 3 wt. % .
[0076] Composition
[0077] The composition may be a cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition is a product designed for use by a consumer and is preferably a skincare cosmetic composition, more preferably a facial skincare cosmetic composition.
[0078] The composition of the present invention may be a single-phase system or multiple phase system. The composition may include but is not limited to liquids, gels, balms, oils or solids. Single or multiple phase compositions are envisaged. Multiple phase systems include but are not limited to microemulsions, emulsions, and products with discrete separate phases. Emulsions include water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions and multiple emulsions (water- in-oil-in- water emulsions or oil- in- water- inoil emulsions for example). Products with discrete separate phases include bi or triphasic systems where the individual water or oil phases can be visibly seen. Preferably the composition is an emulsion.
[0079] Where the composition is an emulsion, it comprises an oil phase and a water phase. The oil phase of an emulsion can be provided by any suitable oily component. Suitable oils for the oil phase may comprise for example: (a) hydrocarbon oils, such as paraffin or mineral oils; (b) waxes, such as beeswax or paraffin wax; (c) natural oils, such as sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil, shea butter or jojoba oil; (d) silicone oils, such as dimethicone, silicone elastomer, cyclomethicone or cetyl dimethicone; (e) fatty acid esters and ethers, such as isopropyl palmitate or isopropyl myristate and polypropylene glycol- 15 stearyl ether; (f) fatty alcohols, such as cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol; or (g) combinations thereof, for example, the blend of waxes available commercially under the trade name Cutina® (BASF) .
[0080] The emulsion may comprise 0. 1 % to 55% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase. The emulsion may comprise 3 % to 25% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase, such as from 5 % to 20% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase. The emulsion may comprise 10% to 50% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase, such as from 25-50% by weight of the emulsion of oil phase.
[0081] The oil phase of the emulsion may comprise a combination of oil, wax or butter. Waxes and butters are hydrocarbons that consist of long aliphatic alkyl chains and may include aromatic groups. They are generally lipophilic and typically solid or malleable at room temperature. Melting points vary depending on the alkyl chain, chain length and associations. Silicone waxes are the preferred type of suitable waxes based on alkylmethylsiloxane. Oils are typically lipophilic and liquid at room temperature with lower molecular weights than waxes. Where present wax or butter may be present at up to 40% of the oil phase of the emulsion. The oil phase may contain wax or butter at levels of up to 20% of the oil phase of the emulsion. The oil phase may contain wax or butter at levels of up to 10% of the oil phase of the emulsion. When the composition is an emulsion it may comprise an emulsifier. The composition may comprise from 0. 1 % to 10% emulsifier, for example from 0.25% to 7.5 % or from 0. 5% to 5%, emulsifier by weight of the composition. The emulsifier helps disperse and suspend the aqueous water phase within the oil phase.
[0082] Emulsifiers
[0083] The composition of the present invention may comprise an emulsifier. Suitable emulsifiers include all those suitable for the purpose and known by those skilled in the art for use in skin care products. Where the emulsion is a water-in-oil emulsion, these emulsifiers have an HLB value of or less than 14, more preferably from 2 to 14, and still more preferably from 4 to 14. Where the emulsion is an oil-in-water emulsion, the surfactants may have a HLB value of greater than 8, such as from 8 to 18, or from 10 to 16.
[0084] The emulsifier may comprise one or more emulsifier. Among the emulsifiers useful herein are various non-ionic and anionic emulsifying agents such as sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C1-C30 fatty acid esters of C1-C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated derivatives of C1 -C30 fatty acid esters of C 1 -C30 fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C i -Cso fatty alcohols, polyglyceryl esters of Ci-Cso fatty acids, C 1 -C30 esters of polyols, C1 -C30 ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates, soaps, and combinations thereof. Nonlimiting preferred examples of these non-silicon-comprising emulsifiers include: polyethylene glycol 20 sorbitan monolaurate (Polysorbate 20), polyethylene glycol 5 soya sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, Ceteth-10, Polysorbate 80, cetyl phosphate, potassium cetyl phosphate, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, Polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, polyoxyethylene 20 sorbitan trioleate (Polysorbate 85) , sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, hexyl laurate, steareth-20, ceteareth-20, PPG-2 methyl glucose ether distearate, ceteth-10, diethanolamine cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, and combinations thereof. Sunscreen
[0085] The compositions of the present invention may optionally comprise a sunscreen component. The sunscreen may comprise organic or inorganic sun filters or a combination of the two. Suitable inorganic sun filters include those selected from the group consisting of microfine titanium dioxide, microfine zinc oxide, boron nitride and combinations thereof.
[0086] Suitable organic sunscreens include those selected from the group consisting of : a) p- aminobenzoic acids, their esters and derivatives (for example, 2ethylhexyl p- dimethylaminobenzoate), b) methoxycinnamate esters (for example, 2-ethylhexyl p- methoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl p-methoxycinnamate or a, p-di- (p- methoxycinnamoyl)- a'- (2ethylhexanoyl) -glycerin, c) benzophenones (for example oxybenzone), d) dibenzoylmethanes such as 4-(tert-butyl)-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane, e) 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid and its salts, f) alkyl-ss, ss- diphenylacrylates for example alkyl a-cyano-ss, ss- diphenylacrylates such as octocrylene, g) triazines such as 2,4,6-trianilino-(p-carbo-2-ethyl-hexyl-l-oxi)-l, 3,5 triazine, h) camphor derivatives such as methylbenzylidene camphor and i) combinations thereof. Other preferred sunscreen ingredients include those selected from the group consisting of homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, diethylhexylbutamido triazone, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, methylene bis- benzotriazoyl tetramethylbutylphenol, poly silicone- 15 , ethylhexyl triazone, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and combinations thereof. A sunscreen agent is optionally present in an amount from 0. 1 to 20% by weight of the composition, such as from 0. 1 to 15 by weight of the composition.
[0087] Dipeptide
[0088] The compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more dipeptide selected from the group consisting of acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (Tyrosine - Arginine), acetyl dipeptide 3 aminohexanoate (Alanine - Arginine) , azelaoyl bisdipeptide 10 (Alanine - Histidine), coumaroyl dipeptide 3 (Alanine - Arginine) , dicetyl dipeptide 9 (Glutamic acid - Lysine) , dipeptide diamino butyroyl benzylamide diacetate, dipeptide 1 (Tyrosine - Arginine), dipeptide 10 (Alanine - Histidine), dipeptide 1 1 (Cysteine - Lysine), dipeptide 12 (Lysine - Lysine) , dipeptide 14 (Alanine - Threonine), (dipeptide 15 (Glycine - Glycine), dipeptide 16 (Leucine - Leucine), dipeptide 17 (Glycine - Proline), dipeptide 18 (Glycine - Histidine), dipeptide 19 (Leucine - Glutamic acid) , dipeptide 2 (Valine - Tryptophan), dipeptide 20 (Lysine - Methionine), dipeptide 3 ( Alanine - Arginine), dipeptide 4 (Cysteine - Glycine), dipeptide 5 (Lysine - Valine), dipeptide 6 (Proline - Hydroxyproline) , dipeptide 7 (Lysine - Threonine), dipeptide 8 (Alanine - Hydroxyproline), dipeptide 8 HCL (Alanine - Hydroxyproline), dipeptide 9 (Glutamic acid - Lysine) , hexanoyl dipeptide 3 norleucine acetate (Alanine - Arginine), methyl undecylenoyl dipeptide 16 (Leucine - Leucine) , nicotinoyl dipeptide 22 (Serine - Valine) , nicotinoyl dipeptide 23 (Proline - Serine), nicotinoyl dipeptide 24 (Glutamic acid - Threonine), nicotinoyl dipeptide 26 (Arginine - Valine), oleoyl dipeptide 15 (Glycine - Glycine), palmitoyl dipeptide 10 (Alanine - Histidine), palmitoyl dipeptide 13 (Tryptophan and Glutamic acid) , palmitoyl dipeptide 17 (Glycine - Proline), palmitoyl dipeptide 5 di aminobutyroyl hydroxy threonine (Lysine - Valine), palmitoyl dipeptide 5 diaminohydroxybutyrate (lysine - Valine), palmitoyl dipeptide 7 (Lysine - Threonine) and combinations thereof.
[0089] Dipeptides are preferably incorporated into the emulsion of the present invention at a level of from O. 1 to 50,000ppm, more preferably from 1 to 5 ,000 ppm, most preferably from 10 to 500ppm.
[0090] Use and Methods of Use
[0091] The present invention further relates to a use of the composition of the present invention for the topical cosmetic application to the skin.
[0092] The present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a non- therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve the condition of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or imperfections and / or skin firmness and elasticity.
[0093] The present invention relates to a method comprising applying the composition according to the present invention to the skin of the subject. The subject may be a human. The invention also relates to a cosmetic method for improving the condition and / or appearance of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or reduce imperfections (e.g., pigmentation) and / or improve skin firmness and elasticity, comprising topically administering the composition according to the present of the invention.
[0094] All the features described herein (including any accompanying claims and abstract), and / or all of the steps of any method or process so disclosed, may be combined with any of the above aspects or embodiments in any combination, unless stated otherwise with reference to specific combinations, for example, combinations where at least some of such features and / or steps are mutually exclusive.
[0095] Definitions
[0096] All percentages provided herein are percentages by weight of the composition unless otherwise specified. All ratios provided herein are weight ratios, unless otherwise specified.
[0097] Examples
[0098] Compositions
[0099] High strength retinoid compositions were prepared comprising either 0.3 wt.% retinol or 1 wt. % retinol. In the comparative examples, the retinol was provided in encapsulated form in the Inumax system, comprising retinol. In the examples of the invention, retinol was provided in non-encapsulated form in the RetiSTAR (BASF) system, comprising of retinol, caprylic / capric triglyceride, tocopherol and sodium ascorbate.
[0100] Comparative Example 1: 0.3 wt. % retinol in Inumax
[0101]
[0102] Comparative Example 2: 1.0 wt. % retinol in Inumax Example 3: 0.3% retinol in RetiSTAR (BASF) Example 4: 1.0% retinol in RetiSTAR (BASF)
[0103] Stability Testing
[0104] Compositions were placed in glass j ars for physical stability analysis.
[0105] Viscosity:
[0106] The viscosity of the samples was determined using a Brookfield LVT viscometer spindle number 4, speed 12 rpm for 30 seconds. Viscosity for all compositions followed similar trends for all samples, with an initial settling to four weeks then plateauing to 13 weeks. The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention was suitably stable for a commercial product. pH:
[0107] The pH of the samples was determined using a Mettler Toledo Compact Severn pH meter. The pH of the samples showed natural variation over 13 weeks but no drifting outside + / - 0.5 pH units of Initial pH.
[0108] The pH of the compositions according to the invention was suitably stable for a commercial product. Analytical Stability
[0109] To determine retinol content over time, compositions were saponified, extracted from the aqueous phase, evaporated to dryness and re-dissolved in a solvent appropriate to HPLC quantification.
[0110] The un- saponifiable material was then extracted into ether. Retinol was detected in this phase by reverse-phase HPLC.
[0111] Analysis of the Comparative Examples shows retinol content at 0 (initial) and 3 months. Examples according to the invention were tested at O (initial) , 3 and 7 months following storage at 23°C or 40°C.
[0112] Retinol content of RetiSTAR (BASF) in a base O / W emulsion was also provided at 0 (initial) and 3 months. The base O / W emulsion did not contain the specific amounts of thickener component and emollient component required by the present invention.
[0113] Table 1: Results for Comparative Example 1 containing O.3% retinol in Inumax
[0114] Table 2: Results for Comparative Example 2 containing 1.0% retinol in Inumax Table 3: Results for O / W base emulsion comprising 0.1 % retinol in RetiSTAR (BASF)
[0115] Table 4: Results for Example 3 containing 0.3 % retinol in RetiSTAR (BASF)
[0116] Table 5: Results for Example 4 containing 1.0 % retinol in RetiSTAR (BASF) Analytical results for Examples according to the invention are compared with results for Comparative Examples, containing 0.3 % retinol (Inumax) or 1.0% retinol (Inumax) and the results for RetiSTAR in an O / W base emulsion.
[0117] Calculating based on percentage retinol remaining after 3 months, results for Comparative Example 1 show that 83.33% retinol was detected at 3 Months 23°C, and 63.33% retinol detected at 3 Months 40° C. Results for Comparative Example 2 show that 90.29% retinol was detected at 3 Months 23 °C, and 82.52% retinol detected at 3 Months 40°C.
[0118] RetiSTAR in an O / W base emulsion shows 92% retinol remaining following 3 months at 40°C.
[0119] Calculating based on percentage retinol remaining after 3 months, Example 3 has 79.31 % retinol remaining after 3 Months at 23 °C and 93.10% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 40°C, whilst Example 4 has 98.95% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 23°C and 93. 10% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 40°C. Example 3 also showed 106.90% retinol remaining after 7 months at 23 °C and 93.10% retinol remaining after 7 Months at 40°C. Example 4 showed 106.32% retinol remaining after 7 months at 23 °C and 98.95 % retinol remaining after 7 Months at 40°C.
[0120] Examples 3 and 4 according to the invention showed improved retinol stability over Comparative Examples 1 and 2 wherein the retinol was encapsulated. Examples 3 and 4 also showed improved retinol stability over RetiSTAR (BASF) in an O / W base emulsion, despite Examples 3 and 4 containing retinol in an amount four-times or twelve-times, respectively, greater than the amount in the O / W base containing RetiSTAR.
[0121] Stabilising Actives
[0122] The impact of stabilising actives (i) pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, (ii) camellia j apo nica flower extract, (iii) quercus petraea fruit extract, (iv) a phyllanthus emblica, (v) dioctylcarbonate, (vi) bis -ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxybenzylmalonate, and (vii) triolein on retinol stability was also investigated
[0123] Example 5: 0.3 % retinol in RetiSTAR (BASF) + stabilising actives
[0124]
[0125] Example 6: 1.0 % retinol in RetiSTAR (BASF) + stabilising actives
[0126]
[0127] Retinol stability was assessed according to the method outlined above. Data was collected at 0 (initial), 3 and 7 months.
[0128] Table 6: Analytical results for Example 5
[0129] Table 7: Analytical results for Example 6 Calculating based on percentage retinol remaining after 3 months, Example 5 has 89.66% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 23 °C and 96.55% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 40°C, whilst Example 6 has 98.86% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 23°C and 106.82% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 40°C. Example 5 also showed 106.90% % retinol remaining after 7 months at 23 °C and 96.55% retinol remaining after 3 Months at 40°C. Example 6 showed 1 11.36% retinol remaining after 7 months at 23°C and 1 10.23 % retinol remaining after 7 Months at 40 °C. The compositions of Examples 5 and 6 were assessed for physical stability and showed results comparable to Examples 3 and 4.
[0130] Addition of stabilising actives to the composition therefore further improves the stability of retinol compared with the compositions of Examples 3 and 4 where the stabilising actives are not present.
[0131] As previously mentioned RetiSTAR is available from BASF. RetiSTAR comprises a dispersion of retinol, tocopherol, sodium ascorbate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil in caprylic / capric triglycerides. The dispersion comprises 5.0 to 5.9% Retinol - INCI listing : Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (and) Sodium Ascorbate (and) Tocopherol (and) Retinol.
Claims
CLAIMS1. A composition comprising:(a) at least 0. 1 wt. % of a retinoid component selected from retinol, retinal, retinoic acid or combinations thereof;(b) one or more water-soluble antioxidant;(c) one or more oil-soluble antioxidant;(d) from 0.1 to 3 wt. % of a thickener component comprising polyacrylic acid, poly acrylate, polyacrylamide, polysaccharide or combinations thereof; and(e) from 4 to 20 wt. % of an emollient component comprising a benzoic acid ester, a silicone oil, a triglyceride or a combination thereof.
2. The composition of claim 1 , wherein in the weight ratio of a:b:c is 1 : at least 1: at least 0. 1 .
3. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein: i) the emollient comprises a triglyceride, optionally in combination with one or more of a benzoic acid ester and a silicone oil, and / or ii) wherein the triglyceride is a C3-C12 triglyceride, optionally caprylic / capric triglyceride.
4. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein: i) the one or more retinoid is an all-trans retinoid, and / or ii) the one or more retinoid comprises retinol, retinal, or a combination thereof, and / or iii) the one or more retinoid is present in an amount of at least 0.3 wt.%, and / or iv) the one or more retinoid is present in an amount of from 0. 1 wt.% to 3 wt.%, optionally 0.03 wt. % to 3 wt. % .5 . The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of a:b:c is from 1 : 1 :
0. 1 to 1 : 100: 100.
6. The composition any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more water soluble antioxidant comprises ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbate, sodium sulfite, sodium metabisulfite, sodium bisulfite, sodium thiosulfite, sodium formaldehyde sulfoxylate,isoascorbic acid, thioglycerol, thiosorbitol, thiourea, thioglycolic acid, cysteine hydrochloride, 1 ,4-diazobicyclo(2.2.2)octane or combinations thereof, optionally, wherein the one or more water soluble antioxidant comprises ascorbic acid, isoascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ethylascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate or cosmetically acceptable salts thereof, or wherein .
7. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oil-soluble antioxidant comprises ascorbyl palmitate, alpha- tocopherol, phenyl-[alpha]- naphthylamine, tocopherol acetate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate or combinations thereof, optionally wherein the oil soluble antioxidant is alpha-tocopherol.
8. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein: i) the silicone oil is selected from dimethicone, dimethiconol or a combination thereof, or ii) the emollient comprises C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone, dimethiconol, caprylic / capric triglyceride or combinations thereof.
9. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the thickener comprises acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, xanthan gum, polyacrylic acid, acrylates / C 10- 30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, polyacrylate-13, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, polyacrylamide, acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer or combinations thereof, optionally, wherein the thickener comprises acrylates / C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, xanthan gum or combinations thereof.
10. The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein: i) the composition further comprises one or more peptide selected from palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide3, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, and combinations thereof, optionally in an amount of from 4 to 10 wt. % , and / orii) the composition further comprises one or more of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t- butyl hydroxy hydrocinnamate, camellia j aponica flower extract, quercus petraea fruit extract, phyllanthus emblica, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, bis-ethylhexyl hydroxydimethoxy benzylmalonate, triolein, dimethylmethoxy chromanol or a combination thereof.1 1 . The composition of any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is an emulsion, optionally a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a water in oil in water emulsion, or an oil in water in oil emulsion.
12. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 for a topical cosmetic application to the skin.
13. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 as a non- therapeutic cosmetic treatment to improve the condition of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or imperfections and / or skin firmness and elasticity.
14. A method comprising applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1 to skin of the subject.
15. A cosmetic method for improving the condition and / or appearance of the skin and / or lines and / or wrinkles and / or reduce imperfections and / or improve skin firmness and elasticity, comprising topically administering the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1.