Aerated cosmetic composition

Abstract

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular emulsions, and more particularly aerated emulsions, and to their uses in cosmetic care, make-up, sun protection and hair care of keratin materials, preferably bodies, lips, faces, hands, feet and / or hair, more particularly to the field of compositions such as compositions in the form of creams, moisturising, nourishing, reparative and perfuming balms, nourishing, hydrating, repair and shine, curl-defining or anti-frizz hair masks, or alternatively make-up products having a moisturising benefit in the form of a tinted product, and products for the cheeks, the lips, the complexion and the eyes.

Description

[0001] Title of the invention: PACKED COSMETIC COMPOSITION

[0002] [1] Technical field

[0003] [2] The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics, in particular emulsions, and more particularly expanded emulsions, and their uses in cosmetic care, makeup, sun protection and hair care of keratin materials, preferably body, lips, faces, hands, feet and / or hair, more particularly to that of compositions such as cosmetic compositions in the form of creams, moisturizing, nourishing, repairing and perfuming balms, nourishing, moisturizing, repairing and shining hair masks, defining curls, anti-frizz or even makeup products with a moisturizing benefit in the form of a tinted product, and products for the cheeks, lips, complexion and eyes.

[0004] [3] The present invention relates to an expanded cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising:

[0005] - from 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent chosen from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and

[0006] - from 36 to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point in a range from 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fatty substance having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and

[0007] - from 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen. The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in which a certain quantity of gas, preferably air or nitrogen, has been incorporated, an expanded emulsion or foam. The invention also relates to the use of this expanded emulsion in cosmetic compositions such as emulsions, for example in the form of creams, moisturizing, nourishing, repairing and perfuming balms, nourishing, moisturizing, repairing and shining hair masks, defining curls, anti-frizz or even makeup products with a moisturizing benefit in the form of a tinted product, and products for the cheeks, lips, complexion and eyes.

[0008] [4] The applicant is the creator of Botanical Cosmetics and has been promoting natural cosmetics since 1959. Its research into raw materials and its expertise in formulation drive it to innovate to create ever more natural formulas to satisfy the consumer and create scientific value. In order to limit its impact on the environment, the applicant is pursuing an innovation approach to substitute ingredients derived from non-renewable and non-easily biodegradable resources. This represents a major challenge in certain cosmetic categories, as it is imperative to simultaneously guarantee the safety, efficacy and sensoriality of the products for consumers.

[0009] [5] State of the art

[0010] [6] Foamed emulsions are known, particularly in the food industry. Unfortunately, this type of formulation has many disadvantages, such as having a short shelf life and a shorter best before date than a non-foamed product. Also, this type of composition often imposes constraints in terms of transport or storage, the temperature of which must be controlled to guarantee the stability of the foam. In the field of cosmetics, similar problems arise, and this type of storage and transport constraints is not economically and ecologically viable for a cosmetic product.

[0011] [7] It is nevertheless interesting to provide this type of product, particularly for the benefits they provide to end users. Cosmetic compositions in the form of foamed emulsions are versatile and thus have the advantage of offering both rich and airy textures. This format makes it possible to offer fun, non-greasy textures with an original sensory experience. Indeed, in the field of cosmetics, the senses usually stimulated by products are the senses of touch and smell. By offering this type of texture, it is possible to broaden the sensory palette of the end user by stimulating a new sense of hearing by offering crisp, crackling experiences.Products rich in fat (such as butters, waxes, fatty alcohols) often have the disadvantage of being difficult to spread. By offering a whipped version, we can improve the spreading of these products by making them less difficult to slow down.

[0012] [8] Foamed emulsions, in the field of cosmetics, however, present an additional challenge in that it is often complicated to work with an emulsion that is robust enough to be able to receive and retain air, while being able to withstand a high shear rate during foaming. Then, the heat and transport stability of this type of formula remains complicated. Indeed, cosmetic products are often intended to be sent to different countries with different climates. The stability must therefore be sufficient so that the foamed emulsion can withstand harsh transport conditions (trucks, boats, mail order) at different temperatures (which can fluctuate from -20°C up to 40°C), and still have a best before date between 24 and 36 months.

[0013] [9] Document FR 2850017 ([1]) describes a cosmetic composition in the form of a mousse. However, as shown in the examples below, the formula described is not stable after 8 days at 50°C.

[0014]

[0010] Document EP 2042154 ([2]) also describes a cosmetic composition in the form of a mousse. Again, as shown in the examples below, the described formula is not stable for 8 days at -20°C, and begins to destabilize at 50°C. The 40°C drop test is also not in accordance with stability expectations.

[0015]

[0011] There is therefore a real need to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of an aerated H / W emulsion which makes it possible to limit or avoid the phenomena described above, that is to say a composition allowing an airy, non-greasy texture with a crunchy grip (that is to say to obtain a rich and airy non-greasy texture which will make it possible to broaden the range of sensory stimuli of the end user when using the product) and innovative while being stable during transport and heat, capable of combining a satisfactory sensory experience for the end user and good stability while remaining economically viable for the manufacturer.

[0012] Detailed description of the invention

[0016]

[0013] It is to the applicant's credit to propose a new expanded cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising:

[0017] - from 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent chosen from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and

[0018] - from 36 to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point in a range from 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fatty substance having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and

[0019] - from 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen and which, when used or incorporated into a cosmetic composition, gives it prolonged stability (at least 3 months at 40°C as well as transport at hot or room temperature), optimal comfort of use without losing quality compared to a known foamed composition. The new composition according to the invention allows a greatly extended shelf life compared to conventional foamed compositions. The composition according to the invention allows the inclusion of a large quantity of butter while limiting the greasy finish and remaining sufficiently airy. It is a texture which brings sensory pleasure to the end user, that is to say a diversified sensory palette by stimulating the senses of touch and hearing through this playful texture.Also, in the cosmetics field, no cold storage implies stable and economically viable products for the manufacturer, but also greater flexibility for the end user.

[0020]

[0014] The cosmetic composition according to the invention is very versatile and can in particular be incorporated into any type of product comprising this type of emulsion, such as a cream, a milk, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation.

[0015] The invention thus relates to an expanded cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising:

[0021] - from 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent chosen from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and

[0022] - from 36 to 60% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point in a range from 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fatty substance having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and

[0023] - from 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen.

[0024]

[0016] An emulsion is understood to mean a heterogeneous mixture of two immiscible liquid substances, one being dispersed in the form of small droplets in the other. These are generally two liquids which do not mix spontaneously (immiscible), such as water and oil, but which, thanks to specific operations (stirring, mixing, addition of some active ingredients), will adopt a macroscopically homogeneous, but microscopically heterogeneous, appearance. One of the substances will be dispersed in the second substance in the form of droplets. The mixture remains stable thanks to a third ingredient called an "emulsifier" (speed or kinetics of evolution of the mixture almost zero). An over-expanded emulsion, for example a foam, resembles an emulsion but also includes a gas, air or nitrogen for example, dispersed in the form of bubbles in the emulsion.Another important difference between foams and emulsions is the volume fraction of the dispersed phase (gas), which is generally much higher in the more stable foams.

[0025]

[0017] Thus, by expanded cosmetic composition, we mean a cosmetic composition comprising;

[0026] - an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion (or dispersion), i.e. an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, and - a volume of gas, such as air or an inert gas such as nitrogen.

[0027] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can thus be presented in the form of a mousse.

[0028]

[0018] Preferably, the total sum of the % by mass of the aqueous phase and the oily phase is equal to 100.

[0029]

[0019] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may have a density in the range from 0.5 to 0.7, preferably from 0.5 to 0.65. The density may be adjusted, depending on the intended applications, in particular by controlling the quantity of gas incorporated in the composition. A low density, of the order of 0.5, will be preferred for applications such as very airy and stable ones, for example for light textures such as facial cosmetic treatments. A high density, of the order of 0.7, will be preferred for less airy textures and applications such as massage balms.

[0030]

[0020] Gelling agent is understood to mean a macromolecule of natural or synthetic origin capable of forming gels by trapping a large quantity of solvent, generally water, in a three-dimensional network.

[0031]

[0021] Advantageously, the gelling agent may be a gelling agent of natural origin. The gelling agent of natural origin is preferably chosen from gums. It may be chosen from xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum, sclerotium gum, cellulose gum & microcrystalline cellulose optionally comprising a sphingomonas ferment extract, gellan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from xanthan gum and succinoglycan gum.

[0032]

[0022] Advantageously, the gelling agent may be a gelling agent of synthetic origin. The gelling agent of synthetic origin is preferably chosen from polyacrylates. It may be chosen from carbomers (for example of CAS = 9007-20-9 / 9003-01-4 / 76050-42-5 / 9062-04-8), polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / vp copolymer and hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

[0033]

[0023] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the mass concentration of gelling agent is within a range from 0.2 to 1%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase. Preferably, the mass concentration of gelling agent is within a range from 0.3 to 0.8%, by mass relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0034]

[0024] A surfactant or surface agent or surfactant (word borrowed from English) is a compound that modifies the surface tension between two surfaces. Surfactant compounds are amphiphilic molecules, that is to say they have two parts of different polarity, one lipophilic (which retains fatty substances) is apolar, the other hydrophilic (miscible in water) is polar. They thus make it possible to solubilize two immiscible phases, by interacting with one apolar (that is to say lipophilic therefore hydrophobic), by its hydrophobic part; while with the other phase which is polar, it will interact by its hydrophilic part. Anionic surfactant is understood to be a surfactant whose hydrophilic part is negatively charged.

[0035]

[0025] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant may be chosen from glutamates, lactylates, phosphates and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl lactylate and potassium cetyl phosphate.

[0036]

[0026] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the concentration of anionic surfactant may be within a range from 0.3 to 1.0%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0037]

[0027] The term "butter" means oily / fatty compounds whose definition is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention. Butters generally have a melting point in a range from 20°C to 60°C. The butters that can be used in the anhydrous cosmetic compositions of the invention are butters of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point in a range from 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C.

[0038]

[0028] Advantageously, the butter may be chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, macadamia butter, camellia butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, bacuri butter, jojoba butter, sweet almond butter, tucuma butter, shorea robusta seed butter, bacuri butter, cupuacu butter, ucuuba butter, and mixtures thereof.

[0039]

[0029] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the butter concentration may be within a range from 10 to 40%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0040]

[0030] By solid fatty substance is meant a wax, a fatty alcohol or fatty acid having a melting point strictly higher than 60°C.

[0041]

[0031] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the solid fatty substance may be chosen from fatty alcohols and fatty acids comprising from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0042]

[0032] Advantageously, in the cosmetic composition according to the invention, the concentration of solid fatty substances may be within a range from 4 to 12%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

[0043]

[0033] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more hydrophilic or lipophilic excipients chosen from one or more compounds chosen from water-miscible solvents, solid fatty substances (second solid fatty substance, different from the solid fatty substance described above) or liquid fatty substances, including oils (hydrogenated or not), surfactants (second surfactant, different from the anionic surfactant described above), polyols, gelling agents (second gelling agent, different from the gums and polyacrylates described above), emollients, thickeners (different from the gums described above), pH adjusters, perfumes, colorants, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils or even cosmetic active ingredients.

[0044]

[0034] Lipophilic excipients are understood to mean, when it is liquid, a liquid which is not miscible with water, that is to say, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, not soluble in water, that is to say, when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble to a level of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water.

[0045]

[0035] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an oil. The oil may be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The oil is preferably of vegetable origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0046]

[0036] In the context of the invention, the term "oil" means oily / fatty compounds, the definition of which is generally well known to those skilled in the art, in the technical field of the invention, which are liquid at room temperature. An oil is a liquid that is immiscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is not at all soluble in water, or soluble at a rate of less than 10% by mass, relative to the mass of oil introduced into the water. An oil may be volatile or non-volatile. The term "non-volatile" means an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 10 3mmHg (0.13 Pa). By "volatile" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oils that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are oils of natural origin, preferably of plant origin, preferably having a melting point below 20°C.

[0047]

[0037] Advantageously, the oil may be chosen from the group comprising oils of plant origin, preferably chosen from sweet almond, avocado, wheat germ, hazelnut, apricot kernel, castor, sesame, sunflower, rice, copra, macadamia, safflower, jojoba, rapeseed, grape seed, camellia, argan, cotton, borage, muscat rose, evening primrose, olive, walnut, babassu, plum, coconut, chamomile, calendula, peppermint, hemp, lemon, palm, rosemary, sage, shea, soybean, flax, squalane (cane sugar oil), C8 to C30 alkanes and mixtures thereof.

[0038] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ester (ester oil). The ester may be of animal or plant origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The ester is preferably of plant origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0048]

[0039] Advantageously, the ester may be chosen from the group comprising esters, preferably chosen from phenoxytheyl caprylate, ethylhexyl cocoate, coco-caprylate / caprate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, ethylhexyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, dibutyl adipate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisobutyl adipate, isoamyl laurate, coco-caprylate, C8 to C30 alcohol triglycerides (i.e. caprylic capric triglyceride) and mixtures thereof.

[0049]

[0040] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise an ether (ether oil). The ether may be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The ether is preferably of vegetable origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0050]

[0041] Advantageously, the ether can be chosen from the group comprising plant ethers, preferably dicaprylyl ether,

[0051]

[0042] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a carbonate (carbonate oil). The carbonate may be of animal or vegetable origin, of natural or synthetic origin. The carbonate is preferably of vegetable origin and / or preferably of natural origin.

[0052]

[0043] Advantageously, the carbonate may be chosen from the group comprising dicaprylyl carbonate, butylene carbonate, 14-15 dialkyl carbonate, diethyl carbonate, dipropyl carbonate, dipropylheptyl carbonate, propylene carbonate and mixtures thereof.

[0053]

[0044] Advantageously, the fatty acid may be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty acids, preferably chosen from C8 to C26 fatty acids, different from the solid fatty body defined above. Preferably, the fatty acid may be chosen from lauric acid, cetyl acid, cetearyl acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid, myristic acid, behenic acid, arachidic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0045] Advantageously, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from the group comprising vegetable fatty alcohols, preferably chosen from C10 to C22 fatty alcohols, different from the solid fatty body defined above. Preferably, the fatty alcohol may be chosen from cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol, arachidic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

[0054]

[0046] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pigment and / or colorant. The pigment may be chosen from the group comprising organic, inorganic and / or composite pigments such as, for example, monochrome pigments (white, black or colored), lakes, pearlescents and / or optical effect pigments. They may be synthetic or natural.

[0055]

[0047] In the context of the invention, the term "pigment" means organic, inorganic or composite particles, which may be monochrome, lakes, pearlescent materials, or pigments with an optical effect, such as reflective pigments and goniochromatic pigments. It may be, for example, a pigment such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council. The mineral (inorganic) pigments may be chosen from metal oxide pigments (such as cerium, chromium, iron, titanium, zinc or zirconium oxides, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof). Organic pigments can be D&C red 6, D&C red 27 aluminum lake, FD&C red 40 aluminum lake, D&C red 21 aluminum lake, D&C red 36, FD&C yellow 5 aluminum lake, FDC Blue 1 aluminum lake, D&C red 7 aluminum lake, D&C red 30.

[0056]

[0048] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a pigment of natural origin. The pigment of natural origin is preferably chosen from spirulina platensis extract & trehalose (spirulina extract), dipteryx odorata seed extract (baru nut extract) and bertholletia excelsa seed extract (Brazil nut extract).

[0057]

[0049] In the context of the invention, the term “mother-of-pearl” means colored particles or elements of any shape, iridescent or not, natural or synthetic, which can be produced in their shell or synthesized. Mother-of-pearl generally exhibits color effects. Mother-of-pearl can be created on different supports including mica, synthetic fluorflogopithe, bismuth oxychloride and borosilicate and associated with the pigments listed in the preceding paragraph.

[0058]

[0050] In the context of the invention, the term "colorant" means coloring substances which are not pigments or nacres. It may be, for example, a colorant such as those described in Regulation (EC) No 1223 / 2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council.

[0059]

[0051] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may comprise a colorant of natural origin. The colorant of natural origin may be chosen from water-soluble coloring plant extracts such as carthamus tinctorius flower extract & maltodextrin (gardenia extract), hydrolyzed gardenia florida extract & maltodextrin, (gardenia extract), anthocyanins & citric acid & maltodextrin (cabbage extract) and fat-soluble plant extracts such as capsicum annuum fruit extract (paprika extract) and curcuma longa root extract & propylene glycol (turmeric extract).

[0060]

[0052] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one perfume. The term "perfume" means a perfuming composition whose primary function consists of modifying the odor of a product or imparting an odor to a product.

[0061]

[0053] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0062]

[0054] In the context of the invention, the term "cosmetic active ingredient" means a substance or a mixture of substances intended to be placed in contact with the superficial parts of the human body (more particularly the epidermis, the hair and capillary systems, the lips, etc.) or with the teeth and the oral mucous membranes, with a view, exclusively or mainly, to cleaning them, perfuming them, modifying their appearance, protecting them, keeping them in good condition or correcting body odors. A cosmetic active ingredient is thus generally an ingredient which acts on the skin to provide it with a real benefit. For example, an active ingredient may be nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying.

[0055] Advantageously, the lipophilic cosmetic active ingredient may be chosen from the group comprising an extract of cornflower, matricaria, chamomile, rosemary, calendula.The cosmetic active ingredient can be easily selected by a person skilled in the art depending on the desired cosmetic effect (anti-aging, nourishing, soothing, moisturizing, mattifying, redensifying, deodorizing).

[0063]

[0056] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one essential oil. The term "essential oil" means an oily liquid concentrated in plant substances, obtained by extraction or distillation of volatile molecules from the original plant. The majority of these are terpenoids and aromatic molecules. Essential oils from different plants therefore have different properties, dependent on the original composition.

[0064]

[0057] Advantageously, the pH of the composition may be in a range from 5 to 8. The nature and quantity of the pH regulating agent may be chosen according to this parameter. The pH regulating agent may for example be sodium hydroxide (NaOH), an arginine salt, citric acid or lactic acid.

[0065]

[0058] A hydrophilic excipient is understood to mean a liquid miscible with water, that is to say that when it is introduced at a rate of at least 0.1% by mass into water at 25°C, it is completely soluble in water, or soluble to a level of at least 90% by mass, relative to the mass of excipient introduced into the water; and when it is solid, soluble in water, that is to say soluble to at least 0.1 g / L.

[0066]

[0059] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one second surfactant, different from the anionic surfactant defined above. The surfactant may be an anionic, cationic, non-ionic, amphoteric surfactant or a combination of their mixtures.

[0067]

[0060] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising an alkyl sulfate, an alkyl sulfoacetate, an isethionate, a taurate, an acylglutamate, and a sarcosinate.

[0068]

[0061] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise one, or two, or three of the anionic surfactants cited. For example, the composition of the invention may contain an ammonium lauryl sulfate, a lauryl sulfoacetate, a sodium cocoyl isethionate, a sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, a sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, a sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, a sodium stearoyl glutamate, a sodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium cetearyl sulfosuccinate, a sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate or a mixture.

[0069]

[0062] According to the invention, the at least one amphoteric surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising N-alkylamidobetaines, betaines, sultaines, alkylpolyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates, their derivatives, and glycine derivatives. For example, the composition according to the invention may contain betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, cocobetaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate.

[0070]

[0063] According to the invention, the at least one non-ionic surfactant may be chosen from the group comprising glycolipids, alkylpolyglucosides, glyceryl fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, oxyalkylenated sucrose esters, oxyalkylenated glycerol esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, sorbitan fatty acid esters, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols and glucamine derivatives. For example: the composition of the invention may contain decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, glyceryl oleate, pEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glyceryl stearate citrate, sorbitan palmitate, cocoyl methyl glucamide, polyglyceryl-3 dicitrate / stearate, polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxysteate.

[0071]

[0064] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional gelling agent. The additional gelling agent is different from the gelling agent previously defined. The additional gelling agent may be a polysaccharide. The polysaccharide may be chosen from gums such as diutan gum, konjac gum, alginate, glucomannan, chondrus crispus powder, carrageenan, hyaluronic acid (e.g. sodium hyaluronate), starch, sodium carboxymethyl starch, and mixtures thereof.

[0072]

[0065] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one polyol, preferably a C3 to C10 polyol. The term “polyol” means a hydrocarbon compound comprising at least 2 hydroxyl functions. The C3 to C10 polyol may be linear or branched. The polyol may be chosen from glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol (propan-1,2-diol), butylene glycol (butan-1,2-diol), 1,4-butanediol, pentylene glycol (pentan-1,2-diol), 1,5-pentanediol, propane-1,3-diol, methylpropanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, butyl ethyl propanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, caprylyl glycol and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and mixtures thereof.

[0073]

[0066] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one preservative and / or one antimicrobial agent. The at least one preservative and / or one antimicrobial agent may be chosen from the substances listed in Annex V “Preservatives” of the Cosmetics Regulation (EC) No. 1223 / 2009 of November 30, 2009 may be added, and more particularly from sorbic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, benzoic acid, its salts and its esters, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phenylpropanol, benzyl alcohol and their mixtures.

[0074]

[0067] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one antioxidant. The antioxidant may be chosen from hydroxyacetophenone, tocopheryl acetate, hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone, tocopherol and mixtures thereof. It may be any other substance capable of slowing down or preventing the oxidation of the cosmetic composition.

[0075]

[0068] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient.

[0076]

[0069] Advantageously, the hydrophilic cosmetic active ingredient may be chosen from the group comprising a floral water, a plant extract or an algae extract such as centaurea cyanus flower water (cornflower floral water) or carpobrotus edulis extract or porphyridium extract.

[0077]

[0070] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one chelating agent. The chelating agent may be chosen from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, sodium gluconate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, sodium gluconate, potassium gluconate, caprylhydroxamic acid, phytic acid and mixtures thereof. It may be any other cosmetic substance having the capacity to fix positive ions to form a stable complex.

[0071] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more organic or inorganic salts, one or more organic acids, such as sodium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, sodium hydroxide (pH adjuster), citric acid, sodium bicarbonate, lactic acid, sodium citrate and mixtures thereof.

[0072] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise vitamins, such as vitamin C, inositol (B7), panthenol (B5), vitamin F (ethyl linoleate), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin A (retinol).

[0078]

[0073] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be chosen from the following compositions E1A-D to E5A-D:

[0079] [Table 1]

[0080] Table 1: Compositions E1A, E1B, E1C and E1D. Unless otherwise stated, numerical values ​​are given as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0081] [Table 2] Table 2: Compositions E2A, E2B, E2C and E2D. Unless otherwise stated, numerical values ​​are given as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0082] [Table 3]

[0083]

[0084] Table 3: Compositions E3A, E3B, E3C and E3D. Unless otherwise stated, numerical values ​​are given as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0085] [Table 4]

[0086] Table 4: Compositions E4A, E4B, E4C and E4D. Unless otherwise stated, numerical values ​​are given as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0087] [Table 5]

[0088] Table 5: Compositions E5A, E5B, E5C and E5D. Unless otherwise stated, numerical values ​​are given as a percentage by mass relative to the total mass of the dispersion.

[0089]

[0074] Surprisingly, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain, in particular thanks to the incorporation of gas, the following advantages:

[0090] - innovative sensory experience on a wide palette high quantity of fatty phase without feeling of greasy finish,

[0091] - heat stable,

[0092] - stable during transport,

[0093] - economical and ecological,

[0094] - a DLUO (best before date) consistent with a cosmetic product of between 24 and 36 months, which is particularly unusual for a rich composition.

[0095]

[0075] On a broad sensory palette, the composition according to the invention will stimulate both the senses of vision via photons which will stimulate the eye and the retina (for example color, brightness, transparency), hearing via bone vibrations and air vibrations which will stimulate the inner ear and the cochlea (for example crunch, sparkle), and finally olfaction via molecules in the gas phase which stimulate the nose and the olfactory epithelium (for example odors).

[0096]

[0076] In the present invention, when an interval is given, the bounds are included. For example, for an interval such as "ranging from 1 to 5%", the values ​​1% and 5% are included in the interval.

[0097]

[0077] In the present invention, unless otherwise stated, all percentages (%) are given as a percentage by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, i.e. the aqueous and oily phase, without taking into account the gas, the mass of which is negligible for the volumes used.

[0098]

[0078] In the context of the invention, the term "product of natural origin" means a product falling within the definition given by the ISO 16128 standard: ingredients derived from natural materials are cosmetic ingredients, for a proportion of more than 50% of natural origin, by their molecular mass, according to their renewable carbon content, or according to any other appropriate method, which are obtained by defined chemical and / or biological processes aimed at chemically modifying them. It may be a chemical compound or a chemical substance produced by a living organism, that is to say which is found in nature. In the context of the invention, products such as butters or oils derived from plants or from the hydrogenation of oils of natural origin, preferably vegetable, are considered to be products of natural origin.

[0099]

[0079] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional cosmetic excipients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as a wax, a butter or any other compound conventionally used in cosmetics, preferably of natural origin, different from the compounds mentioned and listed previously.

[0100]

[0080] Advantageously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises several phases (including at least one aqueous phase). The composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (such as a cream, a milk, a cast emulsion and / or a colored emulsion such as a BB cream, a foundation) which is expanded, that is to say comprising a gas, preferably air or nitrogen.

[0101]

[0081] The invention also comprises a use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic care of keratin materials, preferably the body, lips, face, hands, feet and / or hair.

[0102]

[0082] The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the cosmetic care of keratin materials, preferably the body, lips, face, hands, feet and / or hair, comprising at least one step consisting of applying to the body, lips, face, hands, feet or hair, at least one cosmetic composition according to the invention.

[0103]

[0083] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing the composition according to the invention, comprising the steps: a) formation of the dispersion, the aqueous and oily phases being defined as above, b) introduction of a volume of air or nitrogen into the emulsion obtained in step a), with stirring, preferably mechanical stirring of 100 to 650 rpm, the flow rate of air or nitrogen ranging from 46 to 119 L / h.

[0084] Examples

[0104]

[0085] The invention is further illustrated by the following examples, in a non-limiting manner.

[0105]

[0086] Example 1: composition according to the invention

[0106] The following composition A (Table 6) was prepared according to the procedure described below, in Table 7.

[0107] [Table 6]

[0108] Table 6: Composition A [Table 7]

[0109]

[0087] Example 2: stability test

[0110]

[0088] The stability of composition A of Example 1 is tested. The test conditions are described below.

[0111]

[0089] To evaluate cold and heat storage, the pots were placed in several enclosures: a refrigerator at 4°C, a freezer at -20°C, and three ovens at RT, 40°C and 50°C.

[0112]

[0090] Composition A was evaluated according to the criteria: appearance (absence of release, absence of loss of volume and visual morphology of the bubbles), color (absence of color difference such as for example yellowing), odor (absence of non-compliant odors and presence of perfume), taken at each temperature. These criteria were compared to 4°C which is the control sample. At room temperature, the pH of the formula was also evaluated to verify that it is still within acceptable standards.

[0091] The stability criteria were observed: For 12 months at RT and 4°C, for 3 months at 40°C, for 1 month at -20°C, for 15 days at 50°C.

[0113]

[0092] The stability test results are shown in Table 8 below:

[0114] [Table 8]

[0093] The stability results are consistent at different temperatures over time.

[0115]

[0094] To evaluate the transport stability and heat simultaneously the following predictive test was implemented. The objective of this test was to mimic possible shocks that a product could undergo during transport. This test consists of placing the sample in a cardboard box which will undergo four falls from a height of 90 cm. The conformity of the tested pots was compared to a control pot which did not undergo shocks according to the same criteria: appearance, color, odor. This test made it possible to quickly evaluate the robustness of composition A during shocks.

[0116]

[0095] The results are presented in Table 9 below:

[0117] [Table 9] shock, at temperature of composition A.

[0118]

[0097] Example 3: transport conditions

[0119]

[0098] To validate the robustness of our expanded dispersion during transport, the samples underwent drop and vibration tests which follow the procedure described in the procedure Packaged-Products for Parcel Delivery System Shipment 70 kg (150 lb) or Less, ISTA 3A, March 2018. The samples will be pre-conditioned and then packed in a carton according to ISO 2206 standards. Each carton will undergo:

[0120]

[0099] Two sequences of vertical impacts. The distances and points of impact are described in Table 10 below.

[0121]

[0100] [Fig. 1] Figure 1 shows a representation of the cardboard, with the numbers of the faces, edges and corners. [Table 10]

[0122] [TOI] After each vertical shock sequence a 30-minute vibration test sequence will be carried out. The cardboard is placed on the vibration table on its face 3 and random vibrations will be applied (Grms = 0.46).

[0102] The results are shown in Table 11 below:

[0123] [Table 11]

[0124] 103] Conclusion: Composition A is robust against transport.

[0125]

[0104] Example 4: comparison of the stability of the foamed cosmetic composition of the invention with that of the foaming cosmetic compositions of documents FR 2850017 and EP 204215

[0126]

[0105] The composition of the invention (Table 12), the composition of document FR 2850017 (Table 13) and the composition of document EP 204215 (Table 14) were prepared respectively according to the procedures described in Tables 15 (procedure of the invention), 16 (procedure described in document FR 2850017) and 17 (procedure described in document EP 204215).

[0127] [Table 12]

[0128] [Table 13]

[0129] [Table 14]

[0130] [Table 15]

[0131] [Table 16]

[0132] [Table 17]

[0106] The stability of the three compositions is tested, according to a protocol similar to that described in examples 2 and 3 above.

[0133]

[0107] To evaluate cold and heat storage, the pots were placed for 8 days in several enclosures: a freezer at -20°C, and three ovens at RT, 40°C and 50°C.

[0108] To evaluate the robustness of the three compositions, they underwent drop tests.

[0134]

[0109] Results:

[0135]

[0110] The composition of the invention was found to conform to stability expectations, with the following results: - For the drop test at room temperature: intact foamy appearance; slight displacement of the foam, - At 40°C: foamy appearance with slight enlargement of the bubbles; very little loss of volume,

[0136] - For the drop test at 40°C: foamy appearance with slight enlargement of the bubbles; little loss of volume.

[0111] The composition of document FR 2850017 is not stable after 8 days at 50°C

[0137] (the volume is divided by two when we look at the height of the cream in the pot), which is not the case with the composition of the invention.

[0138]

[0112] The composition of document EP 204215 is not stable at 8 days -20°C, and begins to destabilize at 50°C. The 40°C drop test is also non-compliant.

[0139] LIST OF REFERENCES

[0140] • FR 2850017

[0141] • EP 204215

Claims

Claims

1. Aerated cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and a gas, comprising: - from 40 to 64% by mass, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, of an aqueous phase comprising a gelling agent chosen from gums and polyacrylates, and at least one anionic surfactant having a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and - from 36 to 60%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion, by mass of an oily phase comprising a butter having a melting point in a range from 20°C to 60°C, preferably from 20°C to 55°C, and a solid fatty substance having a melting point strictly above 60°C, and - from 40 to 100% by volume, relative to the total volume of the dispersion, of gas, preferably 80 to 90%, preferably air or nitrogen.

2. A composition according to claim 1, having a density ranging from 0.5 to 0.

7.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, in which the gelling agent is chosen from xanthan gum, succinoglycan gum, sclerotium gum, cellulose gum & microcrystalline cellulose optionally comprising a sphingomonas ferment extract, gellan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from xanthan gum and succinoglycan gum.

4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the gelling agent concentration is in a range from 0.2 to 1%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the anionic surfactant is chosen from glutamates, lactylates, phosphates and mixtures thereof, preferably from sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl lactylate and potassium cetyl phosphate.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the concentration of anionic surfactant is within a range from 0.3 to 1.0%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the butter is chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, illipe butter, mango butter, macadamia butter, camellia butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, bacuri butter, jojoba butter, sweet almond butter, tucuma butter, shorea robusta seed butter, bacuri butter, cupuacu butter, ucuuba butter, and mixtures thereof.

8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the butter concentration is in a range from 10 to 40%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the solid fatty body is chosen from fatty alcohols and fatty acids comprising from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the concentration of solid fatty substance is within a range from 4 to 12%, relative to the total mass of the dispersion formed by the aqueous phase and the oily phase.

11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more compounds chosen from water-miscible solvents, fatty substances, including oils (hydrogenated or not), surfactants (other than that described in the preceding claims), polyols, gelling agents (other than that described in the preceding claims), emollients, thickeners, pH adjusters, perfumes, colorants, pigments, antimicrobial agents, preservatives, antioxidants, essential oils or even cosmetic active ingredients.

12. Use of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims for the cosmetic care of materials keratinous, preferably the body, face, hands, feet and / or hair.

13. Process for manufacturing the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 comprising the steps: a) formation of the dispersion, the aqueous and oily phases being defined according to any one of claims 1 to 11, b) introduction of air or nitrogen into the dispersion obtained in step a), with stirring, preferably mechanical stirring of 100 to 650 rpm, the flow rate of air or nitrogen ranging from 46 to 119 L / h.

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