Silicone-free care composition for keratinous materials

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) hydrogenated lecithin, b) at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers, c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and d) isopropyl isostearate, said composition being substantially free from silicone.

Description

[0001] Silicone-free care composition for keratinous materials

[0002] The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: a) hydrogenated lecithin, b) at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers, c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and d) isopropyl isostearate, said composition being substantially free from silicone.

[0003] Numerous care products, intended in particular to keep the skin bright and wrinkle- free, the signs of young skin, for as long as possible, have been developed. These products comprise one or more active agents having demonstrated biological efficacy in respect of skin aging.

[0004] However, in addition to the benefits of these products on skin, consumers also seek pleasant sensory properties at the time of application, and / or after application. Hence, these products conventionally contain silicone compounds.

[0005] However, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, i.e. the design and development of which account for environmental concerns, is becoming a major concern to help meet global challenges.

[0006] It has therefore become essential to propose more sustainable compositions and / or preparation processes and / or ingredients to meet these environmental challenges.

[0007] In this context, it is important to develop novel cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or those with a good wilderness quality index and / or of natural origin, and more particularly those of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.

[0008] Therefore, there is in particular a need for novel care compositions having comparable sensory properties to existing care compositions, while being devoid of silicone compounds.

[0009] There is in particular a need for care compositions devoid of silicone compounds having comparable sensory properties to existing care compositions at the time of application, as well as a pleasant sensation after application.

[0010] Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) hydrogenated lecithin, b) at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers, c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and d) isopropyl isostearate, said composition being substantially free from silicone.

[0011] Indeed, the inventors surprisingly discovered that the specific association of lauroyl lysine or one of its salts and isopropyl isostearate makes it possible to solve the technical problems mentioned above. This association advantageously makes it possible to remove silicone compounds without degrading the sensory properties of the composition, at application and after application.

[0012] These compositions further comprise sustainable ingredients, helping to meet environmental challenges.

[0013] "Physiologically acceptable" means a medium compatible with keratin materials.

[0014] "Substantially free from silicone" means that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 % to 1 % by weight of silicone. Preferably, the composition is totally free from silicone. Silicone means any silicone compound.

[0015] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. a) Hydrogenated lecithin

[0016] Lecithin comprises essentially phosphatidylcholines, molecules composed of a choline residue, a phosphate group, a glycerol residue and two C14-C24 fatty acid residues, generally different from each other.

[0017] The lecithin that may be used in the present invention does not necessarily have to be pure phosphatidylcholine, but may contain other phospholipids such as phosphatidyl ethanolamine, phosphatidyl serine, phosphatidyl inositol, as well as egg yolk, soybean, corn or rapeseed neutral fats. The term "lecithin" refers to the overall composition which may contain other phospholipids and neutral fats in addition to phosphatidylcholine.

[0018] The hydrogenated lecithins that may be used in the present invention are: (1 ) hydrogenated synthetic lecithin; and (2) hydrogenated natural lecithin obtained by extracting lecithin from egg yolk, soybean, corn and rapeseed oil followed by a hydrogenation. The iodine value of the hydrogenated lecithin must be less than 10.

[0019] A hydrogenated lecithin suitable for the invention is for example marketed by NIKKOL under the reference LECINOL S 10.

[0020] Preferably, the hydrogenated lecithin is present at a concentration between 0.05% and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight. b) Thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers

[0021] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers.

[0022] Acrylic polymer means a polymer obtained from at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer.

[0023] Acrylamide polymer means a polymer obtained from at least one monomer comprising an acrylamide function, optionally substituted. Preferably, the acrylic polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts.

[0024] Preferably, the thickener is chosen from:

[0025] - homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or the salts thereof and the esters thereof and in particular the products sold under the trade names VERSICOL F® or VERSICOL K® by the company ALLIED COLLOID, UTRAHOLD 8® by CIBA-GEIGY, or polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type,

[0026] - acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers sold in the form of their sodium salt under the RETEN® name by HERCULES, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the trade name HYDAGEN F® by HENKEL,

[0027] - copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (Acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymer),

[0028] - homopolymers and copolymers based on acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®, Lubrizol monomer) or one of its salts, such as for example:

[0029] - polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked, sold in particular by CLARIANT, for example under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS®; - copolymers of acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid / acrylamide, for example of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type sold in particular by SEPPIC,

[0030] - copolymers of acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid / polyoxyethylene alkyl methacrylates (cross-linked or not) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS, ARISTOFLEX TAC, ARISTOFLEX AVC type, among others, sold by CLARIANT,

[0031] - copolymers of acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid and sodium acrylate, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL EG® by SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM® (CTFA name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER),

[0032] - copolymers of acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as in particular the one used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SIMULGEL NS by SEPPIC, or acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as in particular the one used in the commercial product sold under the trade name SEPINOV EMT 10 sold by SEPPIC (INCI name: HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / SODIUM

[0033] ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER);

[0034] - copolymers of AMPS® and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the trade name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by CLARIANT (CTFA name: AMMONIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / VP COPOLYMER).

[0035] Preferably, the thickener is chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C10- C30 alkyl acrylate, copolymers based on acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and any of the mixtures thereof.

[0036] Preferably, the thickener is a mixture of at least one copolymer of (meth)acrylic copolymer and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and at least one copolymer based on acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, advantageously is a mixture of a copolymer of acrylic acetate and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and a copolymer of ammonium acrylamido methylpropane sulfonate and vinylpyrrolidone.

[0037] Preferably, the thickener is present at a concentration between 0.1 % and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.3% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.8% and 2% by weight, preferably between 1.0% and 1.5% by weight, advantageously between 1.1% and 1.5% by weight.

[0038] According to an embodiment, the composition of the invention is substantially free from xanthan gum.

[0039] "Substantially free from xanthan gum" means that the composition comprises less than 1 % by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 % to 1 % by weight of xanthan gum. Preferably, the composition is totally free from xanthan gum.

[0040] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free from polysaccharide biopolymers, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, gum arabic, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellans, alginates, or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose.

[0041] "Substantially free from polysaccharide biopolymers " means that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1 % by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1 % by weight of polysaccharide biopolymers. Preferably, the composition is totally free from polysaccharide biopolymers. c) Lauroyl lysine and its salts

[0042] The composition according to the invention comprises lauroyl lysine or one of its salts. Lauroyl lysine denotes the compound of the following formula:

[0043] Where it is present in salt form, lauroyl lysine has for example the following formula:

[0044] Lauroyl lysine is obtained by reacting lauric acid and lysine. It is an ingredient of interest for the formulation of cosmetic products such as makeup or care products. This compound is typically presented in powder form. Lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is generally used as a filler and / or non-colorant base.

[0045] Lauroyl lysine is for example marketed under the name AMIHOPE LL by Ajinomoto.

[0046] Preferably, lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is present at a concentration between 0.05% and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 1 % by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight. d) Isopropyl isostearate

[0047] The composition according to the invention comprises isopropyl isostearate, of the following formula:

[0048] Preferably, isopropyl isostearate is present at a concentration between 0.5% and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 % and 15% by weight, preferably between 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 8% by weight, preferably between 4% and 6% by weight, advantageously between 4.5% and 5% by weight.

[0049] Oily phase

[0050] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase, in particular in the form of an oil.

[0051] Oil denotes any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 - 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) .

[0052] Preferably, the oil is a non-volatile oil.

[0053] The term "non-volatile oil" denotes an oil remaining on skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure less than 10-3mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

[0054] Among non-volatile, non-hydrocarbon oils that can be used, mention may be made in particular of: (i) hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglyceride esters that are generally triesters of fatty acids and glycerol with chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, with the latter optionally being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, jojoba, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oils, almond and particularly sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose, coconut oils; or capryl ic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel,

[0055] (ii) synthetic ethers, for example linear or branched dialkyl ethers, symmetrical or non-symmetrical, containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE);

[0056] (iii) linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petrolatum oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof (inorganic oils);

[0057] (iv) synthetic esters such as oils having the formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid including 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R’ represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms on the condition that R + R’ is > 10, such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoates like the product sold under the trade name "Finsolv TN®" or "Witconol TN®" by WITCO or "TEGOSOFT TN®" by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate such as the commercial product sold under the name "X-TEND 226®" by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, diisopropyl sebacate like the product sold under the trade name "Dub Dis®" by Stearinerie Dubois, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; pentaerythritol esters; citrates or tartrates such as C12-C13 linear di-alkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETI® by ENICHEM AUGUSTA INDUSTRIALS and C14-C15 linear di-alkyl tartrates like those sold under the name COSMACOL ETL® by the same company; acetates;

[0058] (y) fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; (vi) higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

[0059] (vii) carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate like the product sold under the trade name "Cetiol CC®" by Cognis;

[0060] (viii) fatty amides such as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate like the product sold under the trade name Eldew SL 205® by Ajinomoto and mixtures thereof.

[0061] Preferably, the composition comprises from 0.005% to 15% by weight of oily phase with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 1% to 9% by weight.

[0062] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, with respect to the total weight of the composition, less than 4% by weight, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight, of hydrocarbon oil of plant origin.

[0063] According to an embodiment, the composition is substantially free from jojoba oil.

[0064] "Substantially free from jojoba oil " means that the composition comprises less than 2% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1 % by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight of jojoba oil. Preferably, the composition is totally free from jojoba oil.

[0065] Aqueous phase

[0066] The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

[0067] An aqueous phase contains water, and optionally at least one organic solvent that is soluble or miscible in water.

[0068] The water used may be sterile demineralized water and / or floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or linden water, and / or a spring or natural mineral water, such as for example: Vittel water, water from the basin of Vichy, Uriage water, la Roche Posay water, la Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, les Eaux Bonnes, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water, Avene water.

[0069] The aqueous phase can also comprise at least one organic solvent miscible in water, at 25°C.

[0070] Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from alcohols, polyols and mixtures thereof. Among the alcohols, mention may be made of C1-C10, more preferably C1-C5, alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol.

[0071] The polyol is, preferably, chosen from polyols having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, diglycerol, propyleneglycol, isoprene glycol, dipropyleneglycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1 ,2-propanediol, 1 ,3- propanediol, 1 ,5-pentanediol, pentylene glycol, 1 ,2-octanediol (caprylyl glycol), polyethyleneglycols having from 2 to 200 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

[0072] The composition preferably comprises at least 50% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 60% by weight.

[0073] The composition preferably comprises 50% to 90% by weight of water with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 60% to 89% by weight.

[0074] Preferably, the composition comprises from 1% to 20% by weight of water-miscible organic solvent, with respect to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight.

[0075] Other ingredients

[0076] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one surfactant, preferably non-ionic.

[0077] Among non-ionic surfactants, mention can be made in particular of:

[0078] - C8-C20 fatty acids, such as stearic acid,

[0079] - esters and ethers of sugars such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl stearyl alcohols such as Montanov 68® from Seppic;

[0080] - ethoxylated methyl glucose esters, for example PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate;

[0081] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (that may include from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of glycerol;

[0082] - oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethers (that may include from 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) of fatty alcohols (particularly C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 alcohols) such as oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylenated ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), oxyethylenated ether of the mix of C12-C15 fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "C12- 15 Pareth-7") marketed particularly under the trade name NEODOL 25-7® by SHELL CHEMICALS;

[0083] - esters of fatty acids (particularly C8-C24 acid and preferably C16-C22 acid) and of polyol, in particular of glycerol or of sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, such as the product sold under the trade name TEGIN M® by GOLDSCHMIDT, glyceryl laurate such as the product sold under the trade name IMWITOR 312® by HULS, polyglyceryl-2 stearate, sorbitan tristearate, glyceryl ricinoleate;

[0084] - esters, for example monoesters, diesters or triesters, preferably monoesters, of fatty acid (in particular C8-C24, and preferably C10-C20 acid) and of polyglycerol comprising from 1 to 12 glycerol units, preferably from 2 to 10 glycerol units, for example polyglyceryl-4 caprate and polyglyceryl-2 oleate;

[0085] - alkyl and polyalkyl ethers of polyethylene oxide which are preferably those in which the number of ethylene oxide (EG) units varies from 2 to 200. For example, mention may be made of 23 EO cetyl ether, 50 EO oleyl ether, 30 EO phytosterol, steareth 40, steareth 100 and beheneth 100;

[0086] - polyoxyethylenated (1 -40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1 -30 PO) C16-C24 alkyl ethers (C16-C24), for example PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30,

[0087] - esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids (particularly polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated), for example PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, optionally in association with an ester of fatty acid and glycerol such as the PEG-100 Stearate / Glyceryl Stearate mixture marketed for example by Croda under the trade name Arlacel 165®;

[0088] - esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, for example sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160®;

[0089] - fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24 acid, and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated glycerol ethers (that may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold particularly under the trade name Simulsol 220 TM® by SEPPIC; PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate marketed particularly under the name MYRJ 52P® by ICI UNIQUEMA; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S® sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O® sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13® sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L® sold by Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT I® from Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT,

[0090] - fatty acid esters (particularly C8-C24 acid and preferably C16-C22 acid) and oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated sorbitol ethers (that may include 1 to 150 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups), such as polysorbate 20 particularly sold under the trade name Tween 20® by CRODA, polysorbate 60 particularly sold under the trade name Tween 60® by CRODA, and mixtures thereof.

[0091] The composition may contain one or more of the usual active agents or excipients in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrating agents; emollients; active agents; antioxidants; perfumes; film-forming agents; dyestuffs; sequestering agents; electrolytes; pH adjusters; fillers; preservatives; antioxidants; plant extracts and mixtures thereof. The quantities of these different excipients are those conventionally used in the fields in question. In particular, these quantities vary according to the sought purpose and can for example range from 0.01% to 20%, and preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0092] Obviously, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional active agent(s) or excipient(s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the invention are not altered, or are not substantially altered, by the envisaged addition.

[0093] According to an embodiment, the composition is substantially free from perlite.

[0094] "Substantially free from perlite" means that the composition comprises less than 1% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.3% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.01% to 1 % by weight of perlite. Preferably, the composition is totally free from perlite.

[0095] The composition according to the invention may be obtained conventionally by those skilled in the art.

[0096] Hence, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention on said keratin materials.

[0097] The expressions "between ... and "ranging from ... to ..." and "varies from ... to ...", "less than" are to be understood to be inclusive of the limits, unless specified otherwise.

[0098] Concrete, yet non-limiting, examples, illustrating the invention, will now be provided. EXAMPLES

[0099] Example 1 : Preparation of the composition according to the invention C2 and comparative compositions C1 *, C3*, and C4*

[0100] The composition according to the invention C2 and comparative compositions C1 *, C3* and C4* are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table hereinbelow, according to the following protocol: The oily phase containing the surfactants is heated to 75°C, then the aqueous phase is incorporated slowly, and the cooling is started. The polymers are dispersed and then neutralized. The active agents, then the fillers, then the alcohol are then added in steps and then dispersed, at ambient temperature, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. The quantities of each ingredient are expressed as a mass ratio with to the total weight of the composition.

[0101] [Table 1 ] Example 2: Evaluation of the composition according to the invention C2 and comparative compositions C1 *, C3*, and C4*

[0102] The composition according to the invention C2 and comparative compositions C1 *, C3* and C4* were tested by a panel of testers, who were requested to evaluate six parameters using 11 -point rating scales ranging from 0 to 10.

[0103] The parameters evaluated are as follows:

[0104] - Ease of application: 0 if formula is very easy to apply and 10 if very difficult

[0105] - Slip at application: 0 if glides very well and 10 if glides very poorly

[0106] - Penetration rate - 0 if very slow penetration and 10 if very rapid penetration

[0107] - Leaves skin sticky: 0 if skin was not sticky and 10 if skin was very sticky

[0108] - Leaves skin greasy: 0 if skin is not greasy and 10 if skin is very greasy

[0109] - Leaves skin fresh: 0 if skin is not fresh and 10 if it is very fresh.

[0110] The results obtained are given in the table below. The scores of compositions C2, C3* and

[0111] C4* are expressed in relative terms with respect to the scores of composition C1 *. [Table 2]

[0112] These results show that only composition C2 according to the invention, comprising lauroyl lysine and isopropyl isostearate, makes it possible to obtain a composition free from silicone but providing virtually identical sensory properties to composition C1 * comprising silicones.

Claims

CLAIMS1. Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) hydrogenated lecithin, b) at least one thickener chosen from acrylic polymers and acrylamide polymers, c) lauroyl lysine or one of its salts, and d) isopropyl isostearate, said composition being substantially free from silicone.

2. Composition according to claim 1 , wherein the hydrogenated lecithin is present at a concentration between 0.05% and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 1 % by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the thickener is chosen from copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C10-C30 alkyl acrylate, copolymers based on acrylamido methylpropane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and any of the mixtures thereof.

4. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the thickener is present at a concentration between 0.1 % and 10% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.3% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.8% and 2% by weight, preferably between 1 .0% and 1 .5% by weight, advantageously between 1.1 % and 1 .5% by weight.

5. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein lauroyl lysine or one of its salts is present at a concentration between 0.05% and 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.08% and 4% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 3% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 2% by weight, preferably between 0.3% and 1% by weight, advantageously between 0.4% and 0.8% by weight.

6. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein isopropyl isostearate is present at a concentration between 0.5% and 20% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 % and 15% by weight, preferablybetween 2% and 10% by weight, preferably between 3% and 8% by weight, preferably between 4% and 6% by weight, advantageously between 4.5% and 5% by weight.

7. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, being totally free from silicone.

8. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, comprising less than 4% by weight of hydrocarbon oil of plant origin, with respect to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, being substantially free from jojoba oil.

10. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, being substantially free from xanthan gum, preferably substantially free from polysaccharide biopolymers.

11. Composition according to any of the preceding claims, in the form of an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

12. Cosmetic method for the care of keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to any of claims 1 to 11 onto said keratin materials.

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