Compact powder with a pulverulent phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, a nonionic surfactant with an hlb <= 8.0, a lysophospholipid and a non-volatile oil

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in compact powder form, comprising at least: a) a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, b) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, and c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer, and d) at least one emulsifying system comprising: i) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8 at 25 °C, and ii) at least one lysophospholipid, and e) at least one non-volatile oil; said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, via a process comprising at least the following steps: 1) injection into a mould, preferably via its base, of said intermediate composition, and 2) removal of the water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.

Description

Compact powder with a pulverulent phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer gel, a nonionic surfactant with an HLB ≤ 8.0, a lysophospholipid and a non-volatile oil

[0001] The present invention relates to a solid makeup and / or care cosmetic composition for keratin materials, in the form of a compact powder, comprising, notably in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:

[0002] a) a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0003] b) at least one non-volatile oil, and

[0004] c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil, and

[0005] d) at least one emulsifying system comprising:

[0006] i) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0007] ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and

[0008] e) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0009] said compact powder being prepared by a water-based wet process from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), 30% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said intermediate composition (“water-based wet process”).

[0010] The present invention also relates to an intermediate composition used for the preparation of such a cosmetic composition, to a process for manufacturing this cosmetic composition, and to a process for coating the skin with said cosmetic composition.

[0011] Skin care and / or makeup compositions are generally used to impart an attractive colour to the skin, such as the face, but also to mask skin imperfections, such as redness, marks, fine lines and wrinkles.

[0012] The function of the abovementioned powders is mainly to give colour, mattness and even, for those more particularly intended for facial skin, to improve the staying power of a foundation or, if used alone, to give coverage (foundation powder, eyeshadow or face powder). These presentation forms are particularly appreciated by users with regard to their lightness, softness, tack-free aspect or non-greasy feel.

[0013] In general, these compositions combine a pulverulent phase that is generally predominant with a binder phase usually featured by a liquid fatty phase. The pulverulent phase is formed essentially of fillers combined with pigments, the amount of these pigments being modified to afford the desired makeup effect, generally a colour effect.

[0014] To obtain a composition in solid, compacted form, it is known from the prior art to use compacted makeup powders formed by a mixture of powders with a fatty binder, which are formed into shape, for example, by compression.

[0015] However, these compact powders in particular have the drawback of being fragile. Thus, when the percentage of pigments increases in the product, its manufacture and its compacting become complicated or even impossible to perform on an industrial level given the quality and productivity requirements. Furthermore, large amounts of pulverulent phase in the compact powder do not give satisfactory sensory properties when the powder is taken up from its packaging and / or applied to the surface of the skin to be made up. Furthermore, it is difficult for the formulator to obtain good staying power of the product on the skin. To overcome these drawbacks, if the amount of fatty binder is increased, the composition will tend to wax, i.e. to harden during use to the point of preventing uptake.

[0016] Among the qualities sought for compact makeup powders, mention may be made of:

[0017] - good cohesion and homogenization of the composition,

[0018] - good impact strength,

[0019] - good texture,

[0020] - appropriate hardness,

[0021] - good adhesion to the skin,

[0022] - good uptake, irrespective of the applicator (in terms of sufficient amount of product);

[0023] - comfort on application, without drying out the skin,

[0024] - good staying power of the powder,

[0025] - good sensory properties when taken up,

[0026] - good sensory properties when the product is applied.

[0027] It is known practice in the prior art, notably in patents EP2640343B1, EP2640342B1, EP2773428B1, FR2982153B1 and FR2985181B1, to manufacture such compact powders from an aqueous intermediate composition comprising from 30% to 60% by weight of water, a pulverulent phase, a hydrophilic gelling agent, an organopolysiloxane elastomer, an emulsifying system and at least one non-volatile oil in a “water-based wet process”, for injecting one or more powders of a given shade into a respective mould or cup. Said intermediate aqueous and oily composition allows the powder to be fluidized and formed into a slurry, formed into shape by injection into a mould or cup, and then allow the aqueous phase to be removed, notably by placing the composition under vacuum during the injection step, followed by oven drying to obtain the final compact powder.

[0028] However, some of these formulations are not entirely satisfactory when it comes to taking up the powder from its packaging (pick-up) and depositing the product on the skin (“pay off”), notably with certain applicators such as sponge applicators and brushes.

[0029] There is thus still a need to produce new compact cosmetic powders for caring for and / or making up keratin materials such as the skin, obtained via the water-based wet process, for which the pick-up and application, irrespective of the applicator, notably a brush, are improved relative to the compact powders known in the prior art, as mentioned previously.

[0030] The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that this objective was achieved with a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, notably for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, notably comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least:

[0031] a) a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0032] b) at least one non-volatile oil, and

[0033] c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil, and

[0034] d) at least one emulsifying system comprising:

[0035] i) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0036] ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and

[0037] e) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0038] said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, via a process comprising at least the following steps:

[0039] 1) injection into a mould, preferably via its base, of said intermediate composition, and

[0040] 2) removal of the aqueous phase from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.

[0041] Regardless of the shade, the compact powder according to the invention has a pleasant creamy texture, good cohesion and homogenization, good sensory properties, good impact strength, and is easy to take up and to apply to keratin materials such as the skin, irrespective of the applicator and notably with a brush.

[0042] This discovery forms the basis of the invention.

[0043] The present invention thus relates to a solid composition in the form of a compact powder, notably for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, notably comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least:

[0044] a) a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

[0045] b) at least one non-volatile oil, and

[0046] c) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil, and

[0047] d) at least one emulsifying system comprising:

[0048] i) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0049] ii) at least one lysophospholipid; and

[0050] e) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;

[0051] said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, via a process comprising at least the following steps:

[0052] 1) injection into a mould, preferably via its base, of said intermediate composition, and

[0053] 2) removal of the aqueous phase from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.

[0054] The present invention also relates to an intermediate composition comprising, in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), water in a content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0055] The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.Definitions

[0056] In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” notably means the skin (of the body, face, area around the eyes, or eyelids).

[0057] The term “physiologically acceptable” means compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant colour, odour and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the following definitions apply:

[0059] - "solid" means the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105Pa), i.e. a composition of high consistency, which conserves its shape during storage. As opposed to "fluid" compositions, it does not flow under its own weight. It is advantageously characterized by a hardness as defined below.

[0060] - "compact powder" means a mass of product whose cohesion is at least partly provided by compacting or, preferably, pressing during the manufacture. In particular, when performing a Zwick measurement, this hardness is measured using a truncated measuring tip, and a measuring force is applied to the test sample.

[0061] The tip penetrates the sample, and the hardness tester measures its displacement into the powder. This displacement is converted into Shore A hardness units.

[0062] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises less than 3.0% by weight and preferably less than 2.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.

[0063] The composition according to the invention advantageously has a solids content of greater than or equal to 90.0%, better still 95.0%, or even 97.0%.

[0064] For the purposes of the present invention, the term "solids content" denotes the content of non-volatile matter.

[0065] The amount of solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a potentiometer according to the method 19003-01.

[0066] The solids content is calculated in the following manner:Solids content (expressed as weight percentage) = 100 × (dry mass / wet mass).Pulverulent phase

[0067] A solid composition according to the invention has a content of pulverulent phase of greater than or equal to 35.0% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 40.0% by weight, more particularly ranging from 50% to 80% by weight and better still from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0068] The pulverulent phase preferably comprises at least one filler, and more preferentially at least one filler and at least one particulate dyestuff.Fillers

[0069] The term “fillers” should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they make it possible to confer softness, mattness and uniformity of makeup on the composition.

[0070] The filler(s) used in the composition of the invention are chosen from mineral fillers, organic fillers and mixtures thereof.

[0071] The filler(s) used in the composition of the invention are present in the composition of the invention preferably in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talcs,natural micas, synthetic micas such as fluorphlogopite, silica, magnesium aluminium silicates, kaolin, bentone, calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), silica-based fillers, for instance Aerosil 200® or Aerosil 300®; Sunsphere H-33® and Sunsphere H-51® sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen® sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance the TSG® series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, perlite powders, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Among the organic fillers that may be used in compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (TeflonÒ) powders, lauroyl-lysine, starches such as the native corn starch having the INCI name:Zea mays(corn) Starch, modified starches such as aluminium starch octenylsuccinate (Dry Flo), tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Tospearl® from Toshiba, for example), spherical organopolysiloxane elastomer powders having the INCI name: Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (Dowsil Trefil

[0074] E-506 S Silicone Powder®, Dowsil 9506 Powder® from Dow Corning Chemical), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone, for instance the hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer sold under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® by the company Toshiki, carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names MicroCare 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders; fibres of synthetic or natural and mineral or organic origin. They may be short or long, individual or organized, for example braided, and hollow or solid. They may have any shape and may notably have a circular or polygonal (square, hexagonal or octagonal) cross section depending on the specific application envisaged. In particular, their ends are blunted and / or polished to prevent injury. The fibres have a length ranging from 1 µm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. Their cross section may be included in a circle with a diameter ranging from 2 nm to 500 µm, preferably ranging from 100 nm to 100 µm and better still from 1 µm to 50 µm; and mixtures thereof.

[0075] According to a particular form, the filler(s) used in the composition of the invention are chosen from talcs, natural micas, synthetic micas such as fluorphlogopite, magnesium aluminium silicates, lauroyl lysine, native starches such as the native corn starch having the INCI name:Zea mays(corn) Starch; and mixtures thereof.Particulate dyestuff

[0076] The particulate dyestuff(s) according to the invention are preferably chosen from pigments, nacres and reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.Pigments

[0077] The term “pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the physiological medium, and which are intended to colour the composition.

[0078] The pigments may be white or coloured, and mineral and / or organic.

[0079] Among the mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, pink or violet, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, bismuth oxychloride and metal powders, for instance aluminium powder or copper powder.

[0080] The organic pigments may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:

[0081] - cochineal carmine,

[0082] - organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes and fluoran dyes.

[0083] Among the organic pigments, mention may notably be made of the D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.

[0084] The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned previously are mentioned in the publication “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by “The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association”.

[0085] A composition according to the invention may comprise a pigment content of less than or equal to 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 20% by weight and preferentially ranging from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Nacres

[0086] The term “nacres” should be understood as meaning coloured particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, notably produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect via optical interference.

[0087] Examples of nacres that may be mentioned include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or of organic dyestuffs.

[0088] The nacres can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, green, blue, violet and / or coppery colour or tint.

[0089] As illustrations of the nacres that can be introduced into the composition, mention may also be made of the gold-coloured nacres sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant Gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold® (Timica), Gold 4504® (Chromalite) and Monarch Gold 233X® (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super Bronze® (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange® (Colorona) and Matte Orange® (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique Copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Sienna Fine® (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Tan Opale G005® (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold notably by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique Bronze 240 AB® (Timica), the blue nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue® (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold notably by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver®, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold notably by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

[0090] Still as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of particles including a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

[0091] Particles comprising a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are notably sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.

[0092] Finally, examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include polyethylene terephthalate glitter flakes, notably those sold by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver glitter flakes).

[0093] A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of nacres of less than or equal to 50.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Reflective particles

[0094] The term “reflective particles” means particles whose size, structure, notably the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, highlight points that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. brighter points that contrast with their environment, making them appear to sparkle.

[0095] The reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the colouring effect generated by the colouring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of colour rendition. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery colour or tint.

[0096] These particles may have varied forms and may notably be in platelet or globular form, in particular in spherical form.

[0097] The reflective particles, whatever their form, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, may have, for example, at least one layer of uniform thickness, notably of a reflective material.

[0098] When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, notably titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.

[0099] When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, they may include, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, notably a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, notably of at least one metal or metallic material. The substrate may be made of one or more organic and / or mineral materials.

[0100] More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, notably aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.

[0101] The reflective material may include a layer of metal or of a metallic material.

[0102] Reflective particles are notably described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

[0103] Again as an example of reflective particles including a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles including a silver-coated borosilicate substrate.

[0104] Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS® by the company Toyal. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel / chromium / molybdenum alloy are sold under the names Crystal Star GF 550® and GF 2525® by this same company.

[0105] Use may also be made of particles comprising a metal substrate, such as silver, aluminium, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze or titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, such as titanium oxide, aluminium oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

[0106] Examples that may be mentioned include aluminium powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with SiO2, sold under the name Visionaire® by the company Eckart.

[0107] According to a particular form of the invention, the particulate dyestuff(s) are chosen from:

[0108] - titanium dioxide (CI: 77891) such as the commercial product Hombitan FF Pharma® sold by the company Venator;

[0109] - yellow iron oxide (CI: 77492), red iron oxide (CI: 77491), black iron oxide (CI: 77499), and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold under the trade name Sunpuro® by the company Sun;

[0110] - nacres, for instance those based on mica covered with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide, such as the product sold under the trade name Timiron Pearl Sheen MP 30® by the company Merck; those based on mica, barium sulfate and titanium dioxide, such as the product sold under the trade name Ronaflair Low Luster Pigment® by the company Merck;

[0111] - bismuth oxychloride, such as the product sold under the trade name Ronaflair LF 2000® by the company Merck;

[0112] - mixtures thereof.Non-volatile oil

[0113] The composition of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

[0114] The term “oil” means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e.105Pa). These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

[0115] The non-volatile oil(s) may be chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based oils and silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Preferably, the non-volatile oil(s) are present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0117] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” refers to an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and notably at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

[0118] The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” refers to an oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

[0119] The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil that remains on the keratin material at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and notably has a vapour pressure of less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapour pressure can be measured by the static method or by the effusion method using isothermal thermogravimetry, as a function of the vapour pressure

[0120] (standard OCDE 104);

[0121] - mixtures thereof.Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils

[0122] As examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

[0123] - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate; triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36 and notably from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may notably be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter oil, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach stone oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camellina oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut kernel oil, marrow seed oil, wheatgerm oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St-John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant pip oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, notably those sold by the company Stéarinerie Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel,

[0124] - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, or squalane;

[0125] - synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether;

[0126] - synthetic esters, for instance the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents at least one linear or branched fatty acid residue including from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is notably branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may notably be chosen from fatty acid esters of alcohols, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and notably isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoates, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol bis(2-ethyl)hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate,

[0127] - pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

[0128] - esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers,

[0129] - copolymers of diol dimer and of diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer / dilinoleic dimer copolymers, and esters thereof;

[0130] - copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof;

[0131] - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol;

[0132] - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;

[0133] - carbonates, such as dicaprylyl carbonate;

[0134] - acetates;

[0135] - citrates;

[0136] - mixtures thereof.

[0137] According to a preferential mode, the non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil(s) are chosen from synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, having a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.Non-volatile silicone oils

[0138] Non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include:

[0139] - polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone) in particular with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 500 mm2 / s (cSt), notably 350 mm2 / s (cSt), such as the commercial products sold under the names Belsil DM 350® from the company Wacker, Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid® 350CS by the company Dow Corning; polydimethylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 50 to 150 mm2 / s (cSt), notably 100 mm2 / s (cSt) such as the commercial products sold under the names Belsil DM 100® from the company Wacker, Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 100CS® by the company Dow Corning.

[0140] - phenyl silicone oils such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.Organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form

[0141] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or silicone oil.

[0142] These particular elastomers, when combined with the pulverulent phase that is moreover required according to the invention, make it possible to obtain softness and comfort properties (suppleness of the deposit) for the deposits formed on the skin from compositions comprising them.

[0143] The term “organopolysiloxane elastomer” means a supple, deformable organopolysiloxane with viscoelastic properties and notably the consistency of a sponge or a supple sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material withstands deformation and has limited stretchability and contractibility. This material is capable of regaining its original shape after stretching.

[0144] Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of diorganopolysiloxane containing ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, notably in the presence of a platinum catalyst; or by dehydrogenation crosslinking condensation reaction between a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon, notably in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a diorganopolysiloxane containing hydroxyl end groups and of a hydrolysable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, notably in the presence of an organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane via high-energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays or an electron beam.

[0145] Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, notably in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.

[0146] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0147] Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).

[0148] Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.

[0149] Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, notably a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.

[0150] Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, notably so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).

[0151] The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

[0152] Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenopolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and dimethylsiloxane / methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers.

[0153] Compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two lower (for example C2-C4) alkenyl groups; the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located in any position on the organopolysiloxane molecule, but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule. The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched-chain, linear-chain, cyclic or network structure, but the linear-chain structure is preferred. Compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25°C.

[0154] Besides the abovementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in compound (B) may be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.

[0155] The organopolysiloxanes (B) may be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers containing trimethylsiloxy end groups, methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)polysiloxanes containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, and dimethylsiloxane-methyl(3,3,3-trifluoropropyl)siloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups.

[0156] In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer may be obtained by reaction of dimethylpolysiloxane bearing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups and of methylhydrogenopolysiloxane bearing trimethylsiloxy end groups, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.

[0157] Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 5.

[0158] It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1.5 / 1 to 20 / 1.

[0159] Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is notably chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.

[0160] Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).

[0161] Organopolysiloxane elastomers are notably described in patents EP 242 219, EP 285 886 and EP 765 656 and in patent application JP-A-61-194 009.

[0162] The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

[0163] The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing any hydrophilic chains, and in particular not containing any polyoxyalkylene units (notably polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or any polyglyceryl units.

[0164] In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from those having the following INCI names: Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3.

[0165] The organopolysiloxane elastomer is conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

[0166] According to a particular embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is dispersed in a hydrocarbon-based oil of the isoalkane type, in particular isododecane.

[0167] According to another particular embodiment, the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone and cyclomethicone, preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 500 mm2 / s at 25°C.

[0168] Mention may notably be made of organopolysiloxane elastomers in the form of gels having the following INCI names:

[0169] - Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as KSG-6® and KSG-16® from the company Shin-Etsu;

[0170] - Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone such as KSG-15®,

[0171] - Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as

[0172] DC9040®, DC9045® and DC5930® from the company Dow Corning,

[0173] - Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as DC9041® from the company Dow Corning.

[0174] Particularly preferably, use will be made of an organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form having the INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as KSG-6® and

[0175] KSG-16 from the company Shin-Etsu.

[0176] Advantageously, the organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) in gel form are present in a solids content of greater than or equal to 0.1%, preferentially ranging from 0.2 to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 6% by weight, in particular from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0177] The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a ratio such that the mass proportion of organopolysiloxane elastomer relative to the pulverulent phase is between 0.05 and 0.35, preferably from 0.10 to 0.20 and even more preferably from 0.10 to 0.12.Emulsifying system

[0178] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying system comprising:

[0179] i) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, and

[0180] ii) at least one lysophospholipid.

[0181] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “surfactant” means an amphiphilic chemical compound, that is to say a compound having in its structure two parts of different polarity. Generally, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase). The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio of the hydrophilic part to the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term “HLB” is well known to those skilled in the art and is described, for example, in “The HLB System. A Time-Saving Guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc.; 1984). The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention may be determined by the Griffin method.

[0182] i) Nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C

[0183] The nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C are preferably chosen from:

[0184] - saccharide esters and ethers such as sucrose stearate, sucrose cocoate, sorbitan esters such as sorbitan stearate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan tristearate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, methylglucose isostearate, sucrose (poly)palmitostearate, sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose oleate, sucrose distearate, sucrose polylaurate and sucrose hexaerucate, and mixtures thereof, for example Arlatone 2121® sold by the company ICI or Span 65V from the company Uniqema;

[0185] - esters of fatty acids, notably of C8-C24 and preferably of C16-C22, and of polyol, notably of glycerol or sorbitol, such as glyceryl stearate, sold, for example, under the name Tegin M® by the company Goldschmidt, polyglyceryl diisostearate, polyglyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl tetraisostearate, polyethylene glycol diisostearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl laurate, such as the product sold under the name Imwitor 312® by the company Hüls, diethylene glycol (di)laurate, decaglyceryl pentaoleate, decaglyceryl pentadiisostearate, glyceryl caprate / caprylate, polyglyceryl-2 (iso)stearate and glyceryl (poly)ricinoleate;

[0186] - oxyalkylenated alcohols, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated alcohols, which may include from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18 fatty alcohols such as stearyl alcohol ethoxylated with 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: Steareth-2) such as Brij 72® sold by the company Uniqema, or oxyethylenated oleyl alcohol;

[0187] - fatty alcohols such as cetylstearyl alcohol;

[0188] - oxyethylenated and / or oxyproprylenated silicone compounds, containing for example from 3 to 20 oxyalkylene units and notably oxyethylenated and / or oxyproprylenated dimethicones;

[0189] - the mixture of cyclomethicone / dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Q2-3225C® by the company Dow Corning;

[0190] and mixtures thereof.

[0191] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8.0 at 25°C are chosen from sorbitan esters, in particular sorbitan monoisostearate.

[0192] The total content of nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C is preferably greater than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferentially greater than or equal to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a particular embodiment, the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8 at 25°C, ranges from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.ii) Lysophospholipid

[0193] A lysophospholipid denotes a phospholipid which has lost one or more acyl groups by enzymatic hydrolysis, notably by a phospholipase-type enzyme.

[0194] Among the lysophospholipids used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of:

[0195] - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline, also known as lysolecithin (LPC)

[0196] - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Inositol (LPI)

[0197] - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Ethanolamine (LPE)

[0198] - Lyso-Phosphatidyl Acid (LPA)

[0199] - mixtures thereof.

[0200] More preferentially, the lysophospholipid is Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline also known as lysolecithin (LPC), having the following structure:

[0201]

[0202] where R is an aliphatic fatty acid chain.

[0203] The Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline or lysolecithin used in the composition of the invention is preferably present in a soybean extract, in particular an extract having the INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract.

[0204] More preferentially, said soybean extract having the INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is in the form of a mixture of said extract with glycerol. More particularly, said mixture comprises from 64% to 82% by weight of glycerol and 18-36% by weight of soybean extract Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract relative to the total weight of the mixture, such as the product sold by the company Kemin under the trade name Lysofix Liquid®.

[0205] Preferentially, the mixture of glycerol and soybean extract having the INCI name: Glycerin (and) Soybean Seed Extract is present in a concentration ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Hydrophilic gelling agent

[0206] The composition according to the invention comprises one or more hydrophilic gelling agents.

[0207] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention. More particularly, the function of these hydrophilic gelling agents is to structure the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition, so as to maintain a structured composition once the water has been removed from said composition. This gelling agent may be introduced with the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition or with the pulverulent phase. This gelling agent is advantageously soluble in the aqueous phase of the intermediate composition.

[0208] The gelling agent that may be used according to the invention may notably be characterized by its ability to form, in water, beyond a certain concentration C*, a gel characterized by oscillatory rheology (µ = 1 Hz) by a yield point c at least equal to 10 Pa. This concentration C* can vary widely depending on the nature of the gelling polymer under consideration.

[0209] The gelling agent may be present in the composition in an amount that is sufficient to adjust the stiffness modulus G* (1 Hz, 25°C) of the composition to a value greater than or equal to 10 000 Pa and notably ranging from 10 000 Pa to 100 000 Pa.

[0210] The method for measuring these parameters of the composition is described, for example, in patent application EP 1 534 218 in the paragraph entitled "rheological characterization".Thickening fillers

[0211] Thickening fillers may fulfil this function as aqueous-phase gelling agents. Such fillers preferably comprise a clay that is capable of swelling in water and / or hollow mineral or organic microspheres.

[0212] The clay present in the composition according to the invention is clay that is capable of swelling in water; this clay swells in water and forms after hydration a colloidal dispersion.

[0213] Clays are products that are already well known per se, which are described, for example, in the publication Minéralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillère, S. Hénin, M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson.

[0214] Clays are silicates containing a cation advantageously chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminium, sodium, potassium and lithium cations, and mixtures thereof.

[0215] Examples of such products that may be mentioned include clays of the smectite family such as montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellites and saponites, and also of the family of vermiculites, stevensite and chlorites.

[0216] These clays may be of natural or synthetic origin. Clays that are cosmetically compatible and acceptable with the skin are preferably used.

[0217] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the clay used, that is capable of swelling in water, is chosen from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite and saponites, and more particularly hectorites and bentonites.

[0218] As clays that are capable of swelling in water which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of synthetic hectorites (also known as laponites), for instance the products sold by the company Laporte under the name Laponite XLG®, Laponite RD® and Laponite RDS® (these products are sodium magnesium silicates and in particular sodium lithium magnesium silicates); bentonites, for instance the product sold under the name Bentone HC® by the company Rheox; magnesium aluminium silicates, notably hydrated, for instance the product sold by the Vanderbilt Company under the name Veegum Ultra®, or calcium silicates and notably the product in synthetic form sold by the company under the name Micro-cel C®.

[0219] Preferably, when a thickening filler is used as hydrophilic gelling agent, such as a clay, at least one distinct additional filler is provided in said pulverulent phase of the composition.

[0220] The clay may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.5% to

[0221] 5% by weight and better still from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Polymeric hydrophilic thickeners

[0222] More particularly, this gelling agent may be chosen from the following polymeric thickeners:

[0223] - homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof and esters thereof, and in particular the products sold under the names

[0224] Versicol F® or Versicol K® by the company Allied Colloid,

[0225] Ultrahold 8® by the company Ciba-Geigy, polyacrylic acids of the Synthalen K® type, and salts, notably sodium salts, of polyacrylic acid (having the INCI name: Sodium Acrylate Copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (having the INCI name: Sodium Acrylate Copolymer (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) sold under the name Luvigel EM® by the company BASF,

[0226] - copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of the sodium salt thereof under the name Reten® by the company Hercules, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name Darvan No. 7® by the company Vanderbilt, and the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name Hydagen F® by the company Henkel,

[0227] - polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers; the copolymers most particularly preferred according to the present invention are acrylate / C10-C30-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2®, Carbopol 1382® and Carbopol ETD 2020®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR-2®;

[0228] - AMPS (polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with aqueous ammonia and highly crosslinked) sold by the company Clariant;

[0229] - AMPS / acrylamide copolymers such as the products Sepigel® or Simulgel® sold by the company SEPPIC, notably a copolymer having the INCI name Polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 Isoparaffin (and) Laureth-7;

[0230] - polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or non-crosslinked) of the type such as Aristoflex HMS® sold by the company Clariant;

[0231] and mixtures thereof.

[0232] Other examples of polymeric thickeners that may be mentioned include:

[0233] - anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

[0234] - cellulose polymers chosen from hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, and also quaternized cellulose derivatives;

[0235] - vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

[0236] - optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as

[0237] galactomannans and derivatives thereof, such as konjac gum, gellan gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1®, Solvay), hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride, and xanthan gums;

[0238] - alginates and carrageenans;

[0239] - glycoaminoglycans;

[0240] - deoxyribonucleic acid;

[0241] - mucopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfates, and mixtures thereof.

[0242] According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from associative polymers.

[0243] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means any amphiphilic polymer including in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.Associative anionic polymers

[0244] Among the associative anionic polymers that may be mentioned are those including at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those of which the hydrophilic unit is formed by an unsaturated ethylenic anionic monomer, more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof, and of which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

[0245] CH2= C(R’)CH2OBnR (I)

[0246] in which R’ denotes H or CH3, B denotes an ethylenoxy radical, n is zero or denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100, R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

[0247] Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479.

[0248] Among the associative anionic polymers that may also be mentioned are maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the product (maleic anhydride / C30-C38 α-olefin / isopropyl maleate copolymer) sold under the name Performa V 1608® by the company Newphase Technologies.

[0249] Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made, according to a preferred embodiment, of copolymers including among their monomers an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of an oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol.

[0250] Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an α,β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol.

[0251] Examples of compounds of this type that may be mentioned include Aculyn 22® sold by the company Röhm & Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate (comprising 20 EO units) terpolymer or Aculyn 28® (methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / oxyethylenated behenyl methacrylate (25 EO) terpolymer).

[0252] As associative anionic polymers, mention may also be made of anionic polymers including at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit exclusively of the type such as a (C10-C30) alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. Examples that may be mentioned include the anionic polymers described and prepared according to patents

[0253] US 3 915 921 and US 4 509 949.Cationic associative polymers

[0254] Cationic associative polymers that may be mentioned include quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates bearing amine side groups.

[0255] The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:

[0256] - quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof,

[0257] - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.

[0258] The polyacrylates bearing quaternized or non-quaternized amine side groups contain, for example, hydrophobic groups of the type such as steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenated (20) stearyl alcohol).

[0259] The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

[0260] Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A®, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B® (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM®, Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.

[0261] Examples of polyacrylates bearing amine side chains that may be mentioned are the polymers 8781-121B® or 9492-103® from the company National Starch.Nonionic associative polymers

[0262] The nonionic associative polymers may be chosen from:

[0263] - celluloses modified with groups including at least one

[0264] fatty chain, for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as alkyl groups, notably C8-C22 alkyl groups, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon,

[0265] - celluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500® (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by the company Amerchol,

[0266] - guars such as hydroxypropyl guar, modified with groups including at least one fatty chain such as an alkyl chain,

[0267] - copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers,

[0268] - copolymers of C1-C6 alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers including at least one fatty chain,

[0269] - copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers including at least one fatty chain, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer,

[0270] - associative polyurethanes.

[0271] Associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers including in the chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylene nature (the polyurethanes may then be referred to as polyether polyurethanes), and hydrophobic blocks that may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences.

[0272] In particular, these polymers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being side chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more side chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

[0273] Associative polyurethanes may be block polymers in triblock or multiblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may thus be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer containing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example: multiblock copolymer). These polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes are triblock copolymers in which the hydrophilic block is a polyoxyethylene chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. In general, associative polyurethanes include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence arises the name.

[0274] According to a preferred embodiment, a nonionic associative polymer of polyurethane polyether type is used as gelling agent.

[0275] By way of example of polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the polymer C16-OE120-C16® from the company Servo Delden (under the name SER AD FX1100®, which is a molecule containing a urethane function and having a weight-average molecular weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylene unit.

[0276] Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by the company Rheox, or Rheolate 208® or 204®, or alternatively Rheolate FX 1100® by Elementis, having the INCI name Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI, may also be used as associative polyurethane polyether polymer. These associative polyurethanes are sold in pure form. The product DW 1206B® from Röhm & Haas containing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

[0277] Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include SER AD FX1010®, SER AD FX1035® and SER AD FX1070® from the company Servo Delden, and Rheolate 255®, Rheolate 278® and Rheolate 244® sold by the company Rheox. It is also possible to use the products Aculyn 46®, DW 1206F® and DW 1206J®, and also Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol 44® from the company Röhm & Haas, or alternatively Borchigel LW 44® from the company Borchers, and mixtures thereof.

[0278] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from:

[0279] - optionally modified hydroxypropyl guar, in particular hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1®, Solvay) or hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium guar chloride,

[0280] - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol,

[0281] - anionic associative polymers derived from (meth)acrylic acid, such as the non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from methacrylic acid and steareth-20 methacrylate, sold under the name Aculyn 22® by Röhm & Haas,

[0282] - nonionic associative polymers of polyurethane polyether type, such as Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100® by Elementis.Amphoteric associative polymers

[0283] Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked, branched or unbranched amphoteric polymers, which may be obtained by copolymerization:

[0284] 1) of at least one monomer of formula (IVa) or (IVb):

[0285]

[0286]

[0287] in which R4 and R5, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical,

[0288] R6, R7 and R8, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms,

[0289] Z represents an NH group or an oxygen atom,

[0290] n is an integer from 2 to 5,

[0291] A- is an anion derived from an organic or mineral acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide:

[0292]

[0293] in which R9 and R10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

[0294] Z1 represents an OH group or an NHC(CH3)2CH2SO3H group;

[0295] 3) of at least one monomer of formula (VI):

[0296]

[0297] in which R9 and R10, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, X denotes an oxygen or nitrogen atom and R11 denotes a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms;

[0298] 4) optionally at least one crosslinking or branching agent; at least one of the monomers of formula (IVa), (IVb) or (VI) including at least one fatty chain containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and said compounds of the monomers of formulae (IVa), (IVb), (V) and (VI) possibly being quaternized, for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

[0299] The monomers of formulae (IVa) and (IVb) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by:

[0300] - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminoethyl acrylate,

[0301] - diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl acrylate,

[0302] - dimethylaminopropyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl acrylate,

[0303] - dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide or dimethylaminopropylacrylamide, optionally quaternized, for example with a C1-C4 alkyl halide or a C1-C4 dialkyl sulfate.

[0304] More particularly, the monomer of formula (IVa) is chosen from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0305] The compounds of formula (V) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, 2-methylcrotonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. More particularly, the monomer of formula (V) is acrylic acid.

[0306] The monomers of formula (VI) of the present invention are preferably chosen from the group formed by C12-C22 and more particularly C16-C18 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

[0307] The crosslinking or branching agent is preferably chosen from N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide, triallylmethylammonium chloride, allyl methacrylate, N-methylolacrylamide, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylates, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, diethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate and allyl sucrose.

[0308] The polymers according to the invention may also contain other monomers such as nonionic monomers and in particular such as C1-C4 alkyl acrylates or methacrylates.

[0309] The ratio of the number of cationic charges / anionic charges in these amphoteric polymers is preferably equal to about 1.

[0310] The weight-average molecular weights of the associative amphoteric polymers represent a weight-average molecular mass of greater than 500, preferably between 10 000 and 10 000 000 and even more preferentially between 100 000 and 8 000 000.

[0311] Preferably, the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention contain from 1 mol% to 99 mol%, more preferentially from 20 mol% to 95 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb). They also preferably contain from 1 mol% to 80 mol%, more preferentially from 5 mol% to 80 mol% and even more preferentially from 25 mol% to 75 mol% of compound(s) of formula (V). The content of compound(s) of formula (VI) is preferably between 0.1 mol% and 70 mol%, more preferentially between 1 mol% and 50 mol% and even more preferentially between 1 mol% and 10 mol%. The crosslinking or branching agent, when it is present, is preferably between 0.0001 mol% and 1 mol% and even more preferentially between 0.0001 mol% and 0.1 mol%.

[0312] Preferably, the mole ratio between the compound(s) of formula (IVa) or (IVb) and the compound(s) of formula (V) ranges from 20 / 80 to 95 / 5 and more preferentially from 25 / 75 to 75 / 25.

[0313] The associative amphoteric polymers according to the invention are described, for example, in patent application WO 98 / 44012.

[0314] The amphoteric polymers that are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from acrylic acid / acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate copolymers.

[0315] According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) are chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin, and more particularly xanthan gums.

[0316] The hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content of greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) may be present in the composition in a solids content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 6% by weight, in particular from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and more particularly from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Intermediate composition

[0317] The present invention relates to an intermediate composition comprising

[0318] at least the ingredients a), b), c), d) and e) of the composition of the invention as defined previously and f) from 30% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.

[0319] Said intermediate composition is in the form of a slurry and is intended for injection into a mould or cup. It comprises a non-volatile phase comprising components a), b), c), d) and e) found in the composition of the invention in compact powder form to be applied to the keratin material such as the skin, and a volatile phase consisting of water, used as a solvent to enable injection moulding of said composition. The water is intended to be at least partly or even totally removed from said composition to be applied by the user.

[0320] The non-volatile phase of the intermediate composition comprising components a), b), c), d) and e) is preferably present in a content of from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Manufacturing process

[0321] According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is also a process for manufacturing the solid composition in compact powder form according to the invention from an intermediate composition as defined above.

[0322] This process comprises the steps:

[0323] - of injection into a cup or mould, preferably via its base, of said intermediate composition, and

[0324] - of removal of the water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.

[0325] The intermediate composition may be passed through a machine such as the Pilote Back Injection Machine® sold by the company Plastico (Spain). This composition is injected into one or more moulds, or cups, from which the water conveying the pulverulent phase is then removed. This water may advantageously be removed by placing said intermediate composition under vacuum and / or oven-drying and / or microwave drying and / or freeze-drying and / or infrared drying. The advantage of such machines is that they can be fitted with several injection heads, thus making it possible easily and simultaneously to prepare several different compositions in compact powder form, for example of different shades.Adjuvants

[0326] The composition may comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics, such as preserving agents, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, UV-screening agents and fragrances.

[0327] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant(s) added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.Cosmetic applications

[0328] The composition of the invention in compact powder form may be a skincare product.

[0329] The composition of the invention in compact powder form may be a makeup product for the skin, notably for the face, such as a foundation, for the cheeks, such as a blusher, or for the eyelids, such as an eyeshadow.Kit

[0330] According to another aspect, the invention also relates to a cosmetic kit comprising:

[0331] i) a container delimiting one or more compartments, said container being closed by a closing member; and

[0332] ii) a makeup and / or care composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment(s).

[0333] The container may be, for example, in the form of a jar or a box.

[0334] The closing member may be in the form of a lid or a tear-off cover. In particular, this closing member may comprise a lid mounted so as to be able to move by translation or by pivoting relative to the container housing said makeup and / or care composition(s).

[0335] It is understood that, in the context of the present invention, the weight percentages given for a compound or a family of compounds are always expressed as weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0336] Throughout the patent application, the term "includes a" or "comprises a" should be understood as meaning "including at least one" or "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

[0337] It is understood that the following examples are for illustrative purposes only and do not in any way limit the scope of protection conferred by the present patent application.Examples

[0338] Example 1 according to the invention was prepared, a composition comprising, as emulsifying system, a combination of sorbitan isostearate and a lysophospholipid in the form of a mixture comprising from 64% to 82% by weight of glycerol and 18-36% by weight of soybean extract Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract relative to the total weight of the mixture (Lysofix Liquid®).

[0339] An Example 1a outside the invention, identical to Example 1 but containing sorbitan isostearate alone, was prepared.

[0340] An Example 1b outside the invention, identical to Example 1 but comprising sorbitan isostearate combined with Polysorbate-80 surfactant instead of lysophospholipid as the emulsifying system, was prepared.

[0341] PhasesCompoundsEx. 1Ex. 1aEx. 1b1Bismuth oxychloride / CI 77163(Ronaflair LF 2000® – Merck)4.04.04.0Mica (Mearlmica SV® – BASF)1.61.61.6Talc (Imercare Pharma 5T® – Imerys)15.915.915.9Magnesium aluminium silicate / clay(Veegum HV Granules® from Vanderbilt)0.50.50.5Zea maysstarch (MST® from LCW Sensient)2.02.02.0Lauroyl lysine (Amihope LL® – Ajinomoto)9.99.99.9Xanthan gum (Keltrol CG-T® from CP Kelco)0.20.20.2Synthetic Fluorphlogopite;(Synafil S 1050® – Eckart)qs 100qs 100qs 100Titanium dioxide / CI 77891(Hombitan FF Pharma® – Venator)2.22.22.2Iron oxides / CI 77499(Sunpuro Black Iron Oxide C33-7001® - Sun)0.20.20.2Iron oxides / CI 774910(Sunpuro Red Iron Oxide C33-8001® - Sun)0.70.70.7Iron oxides / CI 77492(Sunpuro Yellow Iron Oxide C33-9001® - Sun)1.61.61.62MICA (and) titanium dioxide / CI 77891(Timiron Pearl Sheen MP 30® - Merck)9.99.99.9Mica (and) barium sulfate (and) titanium dioxideCI 77891 (Ronaflair Low Luster Pigment® – Merck)9.99.99.93Sorbitan isostearate(Span 120® - Croda)3.03.03.0Glycine soja (soybean) seed extract / glycine soja seed extract(Lysofix Liquid® - Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (IFF))1.0A.M. *00Polysorbate-80 (Tween 80® - Croda)001.0Isotridecyl isononanoate(Wickenol 153® – Alzo)3.03.03.0Petrolatum(Ultima EP White PET USP® - Calumet Specialty)1.01.01.0Octyldodecanol(Eutanol G® – BASF)4.04.04.0Caprylyl glycol111Phenoxyethanol0.70.70.74Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer(Dowsil Trefil E-506 S Silicone Powder® – Dow Corning)0.30.30.3Dimethicone 76% by weight (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer 24% by weight(KSG-16® – Shin-Etsu)3.73.73.7* A.M. = active materialPreparation process:

[0342] The procedure below was used to prepare Examples 1, 1a and 1b.Preparation of phase 1:

[0343] The compounds of phase 1 and the pigments of phase 1 were weighed out in a stainless-steel crucible and then milled using an automatic shredder, first once for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm and then three times for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.Preparation of phase 2:

[0344] The nacres of phase 2 were weighed out in a second crucible and added to phase 1, and the preparation (phase 1 + phase 2) was then milled in an automatic shredder (R5 or R5 plus) twice for 15 seconds at 1500 rpm.Incorporation of phase 3:

[0345] The compounds of phase 3 were weighed out in a 250 ml beaker and then heated on a water bath at 75°C. When phase 3 was melted, it was stirred using a deflocculator (Turbotest 33 / 300 PH® - Rayneri, Group VMI) until a vortex formed (about 300 rpm) and was then added with stirring via the lid of the shredder once for 1 minute at 1500 rpm to the preparation (phase 1 + phase 2).Preparation of phase 4:

[0346] The compounds of phase 4 mixed beforehand with a deflocculator were weighed out in a small stainless-steel crucible, added to the rest of the preparation and then milled in an automatic shredder, first once for 1 minute at 1500 rpm and then twice for 2 minutes at 3000 rpm and finally once for 1 minute at 3000 rpm.Finishing of the preparation:

[0347] Each powder obtained was then diluted in demineralized water. The amount of water was between 30% and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition so as to obtain a viscosity suitable for a Pilote Back Injection machine sold by the company Plastico (Spain). This Back Injection machine made it possible to inject the "powder-water" mixture, also known as a slurry, via the base of the cup and simultaneously to draw off part of the dilution water by suction. Throughout the injection of the product, the injection mould was placed under vacuum so as to allow the removal of the water, which was drawn off by suction and recovered in the vacuum trap. Placing under vacuum thus promoted the filling and homogenization of the cup.

[0348] The parts back-injected were then placed in a ventilated oven at 50°C until their weight no longer changed. The product was then considered as being dry. Each powder obtained comprised 0.5% by weight of water.Hardness measurement

[0349] A Zwick hardness measurement was performed on each compact powder obtained. It was performed using a truncated measuring tip, and a measuring force was applied to the test sample. The tip penetrates the sample, and the hardness tester measures its displacement into the powder. This displacement is converted into Shore A hardness units. The cup is placed at its centre under the measuring tip, and the value is read on three different cups to obtain an average.

[0350] Results:

[0351] FormulationEx. 1(invention)Ex. 1a(outside the invention)Ex. 1b(outside the invention)Mean hardness6.011.011.7

[0352] Example 1 according to the invention, comprising sorbitan isostearate and a lysophospholipid as emulsifying system, was found to have a mean hardness about half that of Example 1a outside the invention, comprising sorbitan isostearate alone, and of Example 1b outside the invention, comprising sorbitan isostearate combined with polysorbate-80.

[0353] Measurement of deposit intensity (pay off) / homogeneity of the deposit applied with a sponge

[0354] Materials

[0355] - Lancôme Dual Finish® sponge applicator

[0356] - Supplale® support (manufacturer Idemistupetrochemical, composition: collagen sheet with artificial relief bonded to fabric) preheated on a hotplate to 32°C;

[0357] - cup already used at least once and not visually damagedMeasurement principle

[0358] A piece of Supplale® was placed on the hotplate so as to temper it to 32°C.

[0359] Each test product was picked up by performing a transverse movement three times, holding the sponge at an angle of about 45° relative to the surface of the powder and parallel to the direction of movement.

[0360] Each test product was then applied to the Supplale® by performing one transverse movement, holding the sponge at an angle of about 45° relative to the surface of the Supplale® and parallel to the direction of movement. The application area is about 7 cm long by the width of the sponge.

[0361] The result obtained was then graded on a scale from 0 to 5, according to intensity relative to preset limits.

[0362] 5 equivalent to very good

[0363] 4 equivalent to good

[0364] 3 equivalent to moderate

[0365] 2 equivalent to mediocre

[0366] 1 equivalent to poor

[0367] 0 equivalent to impossible.

[0368] A difference of at least 1 is considered as significant.

[0369] The results of the comparative tests are given in the table below:

[0370] FormulaEx. 1(invention)Ex. 1a(outside the invention)Ex. 1b(outside the invention)Pay off intensity542Pay off homogeneity524

[0371] Example 1 according to the invention, comprising the sorbitan isostearate emulsifying system and a lysophospholipid, was observed to have a more intense and homogeneous product deposit on the skin (pay off), relative to Example 1a outside the invention, comprising sorbitan isostearate alone, and relative to Example 1b outside the invention, comprising sorbitan isostearate combined with polysorbate-80.

Claims

Solid composition in the form of a compact powder, notably comprising a physiologically acceptable medium and containing at least:a) a pulverulent phase in an amount of greater than or equal to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,b) at least one non-volatile oil, andc) at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and / or one silicone oil, andd) at least one emulsifying system comprising:i) at least one nonionic surfactant with an HLB value of less than or equal to 8.0 at 25°C, andii) at least one lysophospholipid; ande) at least one hydrophilic gelling agent;said composition being obtained from an intermediate composition comprising f) water in a content ranging from 30% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in addition to ingredients a), b), c), d) and e), via a process comprising at least the following steps:1) injection into a mould, preferably via its base, of said intermediate composition, and2) removal of the water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step.Composition according to Claim 1, comprising less than 3.0% by weight and preferably less than 2.0% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is free of water.Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, comprising a solids content of greater than or equal to 90.0%, better still 95.0%, or even 97.0%.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the content of pulverulent phase is greater than or equal to 40.0% by weight, more particularly ranging from 50% to 80% by weight and better still from 60% to 75% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pulverulent phase comprises at least one filler, and more preferentially at least one filler and at least one particulate dyestuff.Composition according to Claim 5, in which the filler(s) used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 30% to 80% by weight, more preferentially from 35% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to Claim 5 or 6, in which the filler(s) are chosen from talcs, natural micas, synthetic micas such as fluorphlogopite, magnesium aluminium silicates, lauroyl lysine, native starches such as the native corn starch having the INCI name:Zea mays(corn) Starch; and mixtures thereof.Composition according to Claim 5, in which the particulate dyestuff(s) are chosen from pigments, nacres, reflective particles and mixtures thereof.Composition according to Claim 8, in which the particulate dyestuff(s) are chosen from:- titanium dioxide (CI: 77891);- yellow iron oxide (CI: 77492), red iron oxide (CI: 77491), black iron oxide (CI: 77499), and mixtures thereof;- nacres such as those based on mica covered with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxide; those based on mica, barium sulfate and titanium dioxide;- bismuth oxychloride;- mixtures thereof.Composition according to Claim 8 or 9, in which the pigment content is less than or equal to 30.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2% to 20% by weight and preferentially from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to Claim 8 or 9, in which the nacre content is less than or equal to 50.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 20% to 50% by weight and preferentially from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile oil(s) are present in the composition of the invention in a content preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight and more preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile oil(s) are chosen from synthetic esters, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, having a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from isotridecyl isononanoate, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer in gel form is chosen from those having the following INCI names:- Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) dimethicone;- Dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cyclopentasiloxane;- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer;- Dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer, and more particularly Dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the organopolysiloxane elastomer(s) in gel form are present in a solids content ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 6% by weight, even more preferably from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and more preferentially ranging from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8.0 at 25°C are chosen from sorbitan esters, in particular sorbitan monoisostearate.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of nonionic surfactant(s) with an HLB of less than 8.0 at 25°C is greater than or equal to 1% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 2% by weight and more particularly ranges from 1% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the lysophospholipid is chosen from:- Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline, also known as lysolecithin (LPC)- Lyso-Phosphatidyl Inositol (LPI)- Lyso-Phosphatidyl Ethanolamine (LPE)- Lyso-Phosphatidyl Acid (LPA)- mixtures thereof.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the lysophospholipid is Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline or lysolecithin (LPC) of the following structure:where R is an aliphatic fatty acid chain.Composition according to Claim 19, in which Lyso-Phosphatidyl Choline or lysolecithin is present in a soybean seed extract, in particular an extract having the INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract.Composition according to Claim 20, in which the extract having the INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is in the form of a mixture of said extract with glycerol, and more particularly a mixture comprising from 64% to 82% by weight of glycerol and 18-36% by weight of Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture.Composition according to Claim 21, in which the mixture of glycerol and Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract is present in a concentration ranging from 1% to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) are chosen from optionally modified polymers of natural origin, and more particularly from xanthan gums.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophilic gelling agent(s) are present in a solids content of greater than or equal to 0.1%, preferentially ranging from 0.2% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5% to 6% by weight, in particular from 1.5% to 3% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.Intermediate composition comprising at least the ingredients a), b), c), d) and e) of the composition according to any one of the preceding claims and f) from 30% to 60% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the intermediate composition.Intermediate composition according to Claim 25, in which the non-volatile phase comprising components a), b), c), d) and e) is preferably present in a content of from 50% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.Process for manufacturing the solid composition in compact powder form as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 24, comprising at least the following steps:- injection of the intermediate composition according to Claim 25 or 26 into a cup or mould, preferably via its base, and- removal of water from said intermediate composition, preferably at least partly simultaneously with said injection step, in particular by placing said intermediate composition under vacuum and / or oven-drying and / or microwave drying and / or freeze-drying and / or infrared drying.Cosmetic kit comprising:i) a container delimiting one or more compartments, said container being closed by a closing member; andii) a solid composition in compact powder form as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 24, located inside said compartment(s).Process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition in compact powder form according to any one of Claims 1 to 24.

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