Method for producing a new quickly emulsifiable cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion from a glycerin-in-oil emulsion

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for producing a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion, wherein a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) glycerin, b) one or more lipids that are liquid at room temperature and under normal pressure, c) one or more waxes, d) one or more salts, e) diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate (INCI: diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate), f) wherein glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 17 wt.% triisostearin are excluded from the scope of protection, is mixed with water in a storage container and is shaken or stirred.

Description

[0001] Beiersdorf Aktiengesellschaft Hamburg

[0002] Description

[0003] Process for the preparation of a new, rapidly emulsifiable cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion from a glycerin-in-oil emulsion

[0004] The present invention relates to a process for producing a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion from a cosmetic glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing glycerin, one or more lipids liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, one or more waxes, salts and diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate (INCI: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dioleate).

[0005] The desire to look beautiful and attractive is deeply rooted in human nature. Although the ideal of beauty has evolved over time, the pursuit of a flawless appearance has always been a human goal. The condition and appearance of the skin plays a significant role in achieving a beautiful and attractive appearance.

[0006] In order for the skin to fully fulfill its biological functions, it requires regular cleansing and care. Cleansing the skin serves to remove dirt, sweat, and dead skin particles, which provide an ideal breeding ground for pathogens and parasites of all kinds. Skin care products usually serve to moisturize and replenish the skin's fat. They often contain active ingredients that are intended to regenerate the skin and, for example, prevent or reduce premature aging (e.g., the formation of fine lines and wrinkles) or protect against the negative effects of UV radiation. Skin care products are usually offered in the form of emulsions, in which an outer water phase contains stable, finely distributed oil droplets (O / W emulsion) or a continuous oil phase contains stable, finely distributed water droplets (W / O emulsion).

[0007] Skin care emulsions are typically sold as ready-to-use products. However, these products have the disadvantage of being heavy due to their varying water content. This heavy weight leads to higher energy and fuel consumption, particularly during transport. Therefore, the object of the present invention was to develop a cosmetic emulsion in which the weight of the preparation is reduced and which leads to lower energy and / or fuel consumption, especially during transport of larger container quantities.

[0008] Most cosmetic emulsions are manufactured by industrial manufacturers using the "hot-hot" or "hot-cold" process, in which an oil phase, usually heated to over 80°C, is mixed with a water phase that is also heated ("hot-hot") or at room temperature ("hot-cold") while stirring, homogenized, and then cooled. All of these manufacturing steps involve relatively high energy consumption. Therefore, the object of the present invention was to develop a cosmetic emulsion in which energy consumption during industrial production is reduced.

[0009] By solving both tasks, the “CO2 footprint”, i.e. the CO2 emissions associated with the production and transport of the products, should also be significantly reduced.

[0010] Last but not least, conventional ready-made cosmetic products are often perceived by consumers as boring to use. The desire (or even the "playfulness") of many consumers to participate in the production of cosmetics, as well as the general consumer desire for products with a minimal carbon footprint, can only be met to a limited extent by conventional ready-made products.

[0011] It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop a cosmetic product that meets these consumer wishes.

[0012] These objects are surprisingly achieved by a process for producing a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion, wherein a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) glycerin, b) one or more lipids liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, c) one or more waxes, d) one or more salts, e) diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate (INGI: diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate), f) wherein glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 17% by weight of triisostearin are excluded from the scope of protection, is mixed with water in a storage container and shaken or stirred. With the glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to the invention, the user / consumer can produce a stable, ready-to-use W / O emulsion for skin and body care by simply adding water and shaking briefly, without having to use a technically or time-consuming manufacturing process.

[0013] While there have been numerous attempts in the past to develop low-water or even water-free "pre-emulsions" and offer them to consumers for the production of a skin care emulsion in the home environment, the production process was either relatively complex, requiring, for example, warm water or complex equipment such as agitators ("mixers"). Alternatively, the quality of the end product produced at home left much to be desired because a truly finely dispersed, homogeneous emulsion was not formed. Regionally varying water salt content (e.g., water hardness) also posed difficulties, as this has a significant influence on the formation and stability of an emulsion. What worked in Hamburg did not necessarily work in Munich.

[0014] In the context of the present disclosure, the terms “according to the invention” etc. always refer to the process according to the invention and to the process product.

[0015] For glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 17% by weight of triisostearin and excluded from the scope of protection, the weight of 17% by weight refers to the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

[0016] It is particularly advantageous for the process according to the invention if the preparation contains no additional water besides the water contained in the glycerin and the salts. A small additional water content can destabilize the glycerin-in-oil emulsion and lead to phase separation. Only at higher water concentrations (greater than 30 wt%), such as those found in the W / O emulsion produced by the process according to the invention, does a stable W / O emulsion system form again.

[0017] It is particularly advantageous for the process according to the invention if the preparation contains a maximum of 0.5% water by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion. This water is not added directly, but rather in conjunction with raw materials that contain small amounts of water. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the glycerol used contains a maximum of 1% water by weight, based on the glycerol. Ideally, 99% or 99.5% glycerol is used.

[0018] According to the invention, it is advantageous if alkaline earth metal salts are used as salts in the glycerol-in-oil emulsion. Preferred embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that magnesium sulfate is used as salt in the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

[0019] Furthermore, it is particularly preferred according to the invention to use magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (MgSC 7H2O) as the magnesium sulfate. This may seem surprising at first glance, but anhydrous magnesium sulfate is significantly more difficult to incorporate into the glycerol-in-oil emulsion than magnesium sulfate, which contains water of crystallization. Anhydrous magnesium sulfate dissolves less well in glycerol and tends to form lumps.

[0020] It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more compounds selected from the group of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INGI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), ethylhexyl stearate (INCI: Ethylhexyl Stearate), coco-caprylate / caprate (INGI: Coco-Caprylate Caprate), octyldodecanol, coco-glycerides (INGI: Coco Glycerides), vegetable oil (INCI: Vegetable Oil), dicaprylyl ether, sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) are used as lipids which are liquid at room temperature and normal pressure.

[0021] The use of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), coco-caprylate / caprate (INCI: Coco-Caprylate Caprate) and vegetable oil (INCI: Vegetable Oil) is preferred according to the invention.

[0022] If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

[0023] If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains coco-caprylate / caprate (INCI: Coco-Caprylate Caprate), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

[0024] If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains vegetable oil, e.g. based on rapeseed oil (INCI: Vegetable Oil), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 10 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

[0025] It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), hydrogenated vegetable oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), and glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) are used as the wax. The use of hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil) is preferred according to the invention. If the oil phase of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), this compound is preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

[0026] The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains the glycerin in an amount of 15 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerin-in-oil emulsion.

[0027] The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are further characterized in that the preparation contains lipids of feature b) which are liquid at room temperature and normal pressure in a total amount of 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

[0028] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains waxes of feature c) in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

[0029] Furthermore, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains magnesium sulfate in an amount of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

[0030] The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate (INCI: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dioleate) in an amount of 5 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

[0031] In addition to diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate (INCI: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dioleate), the glycerol-in-oil emulsion according to the invention can advantageously additionally contain other W / O emulsifiers. According to the invention, particular preference is given to polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleates or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacates. These are then preferably used according to the invention in a concentration of 5 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion. By adding these additional W / O emulsifiers, the viscosity of the concentrate and the mixed emulsion can be adjusted to the desired range.

[0032] In addition, the glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to the invention can contain other ingredients such as are typically used in cosmetic emulsions, for example cosmetic active ingredients, UV filters, preservatives, antioxidants, chelating agents, powder raw materials, etc. It is advantageous according to the invention if the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more preservatives. The preservatives preferred according to the invention are one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone, benzyl alcohol, glyceryl caprate, ethanol, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, glyceryl caprylate, 1,2-decanediol, and phenoxyethanol. According to the invention, these are preferably incorporated into the glycerol phase.

[0033] In particular, it is advantageous according to the invention if the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more perfume substances.

[0034] Perfume substances advantageous according to the invention include linalool, eugenol, citral, geraniol, citronellol, coumarin, isoeugenol, alpha-isomethyl ionene, limonene, hydroxycitronellal, cinnamyl alcohol.

[0035] According to the invention, it is advantageous if the glycerin-in-oil emulsion according to the invention is contained in a jar or bottle with a water-impermeable closure made of tinplate, aluminum, glass, polypropylene, polyethylene, or polyethylene terephthalate. Preferably, according to the invention, the filling quantity in this storage container should be selected such that it can additionally hold three times the amount of water.

[0036] It is advantageous for the process according to the invention if a crucible or a bottle made of tinplate, aluminum, glass, polypropylene, polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate is used as the storage container, which has a water-impermeable closure, and the emulsion is formed by shaking.

[0037] Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the method according to the invention are characterized in that the method is carried out at a temperature between 10 and 30 °C.

[0038] Furthermore, it is advantageous for the process according to the invention if the weight ratio of glycerol-in-oil emulsion to water is from 20:80% by weight to 60:40% by weight. According to the invention, the weight ratio of glycerol-in-oil emulsion to water is preferably from 30:70% by weight to 50:50% by weight, and particularly preferably 1:2.

[0039] The viscosity of the water-in-oil emulsion, which can be obtained from the glycerin-in-oil emulsion by adding water, can be regulated by varying the amount of water used. A low water content (60-75 wt.%) results in a highly viscous preparation, particularly a cream. Lower water contents (40-60 wt.%), on the other hand, produce thinner lotions.

[0040] Furthermore, according to the invention, it is advantageous if the water has a temperature of at least 10 °C. According to the invention, a water temperature of 15 to 25 °C is preferred.

[0041] Last but not least, one of the advantageous embodiments of the method according to the invention is when the storage container is shaken by hand and the shaking process lasts a maximum of 90 seconds. According to the invention, a duration of the shaking process of 10 to 30 seconds is preferred.

[0042] According to the invention, a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion is also produced according to the process according to the invention.

[0043] According to the invention, this is advantageously characterized in that it is present as a cream or lotion.

[0044] Comparative tests

[0045] The following experiment was used to demonstrate the effect of the invention:

[0046] The following concentrates (=glycerol-in-oil emulsion) and the activation time until the formation of the water-in-oil emulsion (=process product) were investigated.

[0047] Production of the concentrate (=glycerin-in-oil emulsion) in the laboratory:

[0048] The emulsifiers and lipid-soluble raw materials in the oil phase are melted at 80°C prior to homogenization until all components have reached a liquid state. Components of the hydrophilic phase are dissolved in the glycerin using a heatable magnetic stirrer at 75°C while stirring until the liquid is clear. This glycerin phase is added to the oil phase during the homogenization process (e.g., with an IKA T25 digital Ultra-Turrax) as soon as both phases have reached a temperature of 75-80°C. The phases are combined at a speed of 8000 rpm. After phase combination, homogenization is continued at a speed of 11200 rpm for 3 minutes. The concentrate is then cooled while stirring using the IKA stirrer. If necessary, a second homogenization takes place after the addition of a perfume at approx. 35°C.

[0049] Preparation of the W / O emulsion and determination of the activation time:

[0050] To prepare the water-based W / O emulsions and determine the activation time until they form, first weigh the concentrate (=glycerol-in-oil emulsion) and then the water, totaling 400 g, into a 500 ml wide-necked glass jar (e.g., for a 30% to 70% ratio: 120 g concentrate and 280 g water). The jar is then tightly closed and shaken by hand until the resulting W / O emulsion appears homogeneous. The time is recorded.

[0051] If no homogeneous W / O emulsion is formed within 2 minutes of shaking, the reaction is discontinued.

[0052] The viscosity was determined using the following viscometer under the specified conditions. The measurement is carried out at 25°C in a 150 ml crimp-neck glass using a Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotational viscometer, i.e. a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a specified speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body, and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body used is measuring body no. 1 (item no. 200 0191), speed range 62.5 min-1.

[0053]

[0054] Examples

Claims

Patent claims 1 . Process for the preparation of a cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion, wherein a glycerin-in-oil emulsion containing a) glycerin, b) one or more lipids liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, c) one or more waxes, d) one or more salts, e) diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate (INCI: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer Dioleate), f) wherein glycerin-in-oil emulsions containing 17% by weight of triisostearin are excluded from the scope of protection, is mixed with water in a storage container and shaken or stirred.

2. Process according to claim 1, characterized in that the glycerol-in-oil emulsion contains at most 0.5% by weight of water, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

3. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that alkaline earth metal salts are used as salts in the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

4. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that magnesium sulfate is used as salt in the glycerol-in-oil emulsion 5. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerol used contains a maximum of 1% by weight of water, based on the glycerol.

6. Process according to one of the preceding claims 4 to 5, characterized in that magnesium sulfate heptahydrate (MgSO47H2O) is used as magnesium sulfate.

7. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of caprylic / capric acid triglyceride (INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), coco-caprylate / caprate (INCI: Coco-Caprylate Caprate), octyldodecanol, coco-glycerides (INCI: Coco Glycerides), vegetable oil (INCI: Vegetable Oil), dicaprylyl ether and sunflower oil (INCI: Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil) are used as lipids which are liquid at room temperature and normal pressure.

8. The method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more compounds selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated rapeseed oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil), hydrogenated castor oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Castor Oil), hydrogenated vegetable oil (INCI: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), glyceryl stearate (INCI: Glyceryl Stearate) are used as the wax.

9. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains the glycerol in an amount of 15 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

10. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains lipids of feature b) which are liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure in a total amount of 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion. 11 . Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains waxes of feature c) in an amount of 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

12. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains magnesium sulfate in an amount of 1 to 4% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

13. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate (INGI: diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dioleate) in an amount of 5 to 16% by weight, based on the total weight of the glycerol-in-oil emulsion.

14. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in a storage container consisting of a crucible or a bottle made of tinplate, aluminum, glass, polypropylene, polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate and having a water-impermeable closure, containing a glycerol-in-oil emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, water is added and the emulsion is formed by shaking.

15. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the process is carried out at a temperature between 10 and 30 °C.

16. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of glycerol-in-oil emulsion to water is from 20:80 wt% to 60:40 wt%.

17. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water has a temperature of at least 10 °C.

18. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water has a temperature of 15 to 25 °C.

19. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the shaking of the storage container takes place in the hand and the shaking process lasts a maximum of 90 seconds.

20. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerol-in-oil emulsion contains one or more perfume substances.

21. Cosmetic water-in-oil emulsion prepared by a process according to any one of the preceding claims.

22. Water-in-oil emulsion according to claim 21, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream or lotion.

23. Method according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerin-in-oil emulsion contains one or more preservatives selected from ethylhexylglycerin, hydroxyacetophenone, benzyl alcohol, glyceryl caprate, ethanol, polyglyceryl-2 caprate, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 2-methylpropane-1,3-diol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, glyceryl caprylate, 1,2-decanediol, and phenoxyethanol.

24. Process according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glycerol-in-oil emulsion additionally contains further W / O emulsifiers, which are preferably selected from the group of the compounds polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate / polyhydroxystearate / sebacate.

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