MAKEUP BASE MOUSSE

Abstract

Title: Makeup Base Foam The invention relates to a process for treating keratinous substrates, comprising actuation of a packaged makeup base product that includes a foaming composition to release a makeup base composition. The process further includes applying the makeup base composition to the keratinous substrate to form a prepared keratinous substrate; and applying a makeup top coat composition comprising a colorant to the prepared keratinous substrate. The foaming composition comprises a propellant gas, water, and a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The foaming composition has a surface tension value of less than approximately 63 mN / m and is practically surfactant-free. Kits are also provided. Figure for abstract: Figure 1

Description

Title of the invention: MAKEUP BASE MOUSSE technical field

[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions for the treatment, care and / or protection of keratinous substrates, as well as systems and kits comprising the compositions, and methods for using the compositions. BACKGROUND

[0002] Colored cosmetic products have long been used to improve the appearance of keratinous substrates and, in particular, skin. Although long-lasting or extended-use makeup formulas are used, these products still have limitations, and some consumers wish to further protect the appearance of makeup after application or improve ease of application.

[0003] One approach to ensuring such protection is to use a "makeup base layer." These are products that are applied to the surface (usually the face) using, for example, the fingers or an applicator. These products generally include various oils, solvents, emulsifiers / surfactants, and the like.

[0004] However, the present inventors recognized that conventional makeup bases do not always improve makeup results. Consequently, the present inventors designed and discovered, surprisingly, that keratinous substrates can be effectively treated with certain makeup base compositions in the form of a foam. These compositions can provide certain benefits, such as reducing makeup stains applied to the substrate. SUMMARY

[0005] According to one aspect of the invention, a method for treating keratinous substrates includes actuation of a packaged makeup base product that includes a foaming composition to release a makeup base composition. The method further includes applying the makeup base composition to the keratinous substrate to form a prepared keratinous substrate; and applying a makeup top coat composition comprising a colorant to the prepared keratinous substrate. The foaming composition comprises a propellant gas, water, and approximately 0.5% to approximately 50% by weight of a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The foaming composition has a surface tension value of less than approximately 63 mN / m and is practically free of surfactants.

[0006] In some exemplary embodiments, the process further consists of shearing the makeup fixing composition on the keratinous substrate to form a layer on it.

[0007] In some other exemplary embodiments, shearing includes manually bringing the makeup base composition that has been applied to the keratinous substrate (for example, the skin) into contact to spread the makeup base composition that has been applied to the keratinous substrate.

[0008] In some other exemplary embodiments, the basic makeup composition has a surface tension value of less than about 63 mN / m and where the propellant gas has been removed from the composition.

[0009] According to another aspect of the invention, a kit includes a makeup application product and a packaged makeup base. The packaged makeup base includes a propellant gas, water, and approximately 0.5% to approximately 50% by weight of a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The foaming composition has a surface tension value of less than approximately 63 mN / m and is practically free of surfactants. Brief description of the drawings

[0010] The accompanying drawings, which are incorporated in this document and form part of the descriptive memorandum, illustrate exemplary embodiments of the invention and, together with the general description given above and the description provided in this document, serve to explain the particulars of the invention.

[0011] [Fig-1] [Fig. 1] is a schematic image illustrating the structure of the foam in a basic makeup composition according to the embodiments of the invention described herein; and

[0012] [Fig.2] [Fig.2] is a schematic image illustrating the structure of a composition comparative.

[0013] It is understood that the preceding and following descriptions are solely illustrative and explanatory, and are not intended to restrict the claimed subject matter. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0014] All percentages of the ingredients present are stated on an active basis, unless otherwise indicated. Furthermore, all ingredient percentages are expressed as a percentage of weight, unless otherwise indicated.

[0015] In this document, the expression "at least one" means one or more and therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0016] Except for operational examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", that is, within 15%, for example, within 10% of the stated number. For example, approximately 10% means from 8.5% to 11.5%, such as between 9% and 11%.

[0017] “Transfer resistance,” as used in this document, refers to the quality of compositions that do not readily wash off upon contact with another material, such as glass, clothing, or skin, for example, when eating or drinking. Transfer resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such resistance. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be evaluated using the test methods described herein.

[0018] The term "substituted," as used in this document, means that it comprises at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as amine groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

[0019] “Significantly devoid” as used here means that, although it is While it is preferable that no quantity of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small quantities of it in the compositions of the invention, provided that these quantities do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the packaging compositions of the invention. In certain embodiments, "substantially free of" means less than approximately 2% of the identified ingredient, such as less than approximately 1%, less than approximately 0.5%, or less than approximately 0.1% of the ingredient. The term "anhydrous" means substantially free of water.

[0020] The numeric ranges include the parameters and are intended to include all combinations and sub-combinations. For example, from about 5%, 10% or 15% to about 20%, 50% or 60% means about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 50%, about 5% to about 60%, about 10% to about 20%, about 10% to about 50%, about 10% to about 60%, about 15% to about 20%, about 15% to about 50%, or about 15% to about 60%.

[0021] All concentrations appearing in this descriptive document are expressed in weight, unless expressly stated otherwise.

[0022] “Keratinous materials” include materials containing keratin such as hair, skin, eyebrows, lips, and nails. In some notable embodiments, the keratinous substrate is the skin, such as facial skin including the area around the cheeks, forehead, eyes, lips, or the skin of other parts of the body.

[0023] “Volatile”, as used here, means having a flash point less than about 100°C.

[0024] “Non-volatile”, as used here, means having a flash point greater than approximately 100°C.

[0025] The term "active base", as used here, means that only the particular component of the ingredient (for example, in a composition) is considered and other chemically unrelated components that may also be present in the same raw material source of that particular component are ignored.

[0026] The term "polymer" as used herein refers to a compound whose molecules comprise repeating units. In some embodiments, the polymers useful for the embodiments described herein have a repeating unit comprising carbon and hydrogen, such as repeating units comprising carbon, hydrogen, and optionally oxygen or nitrogen.

[0027] The compositions and methods of the present invention may include, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, together with any additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein or otherwise useful.

[0028] This disclosure relates to processes for treating keratinous substrates using makeup base compositions. The makeup base compositions are in the form of a foam, that is, they comprise a gaseous phase dispersed in a condensed phase.

[0029] The term "foam" refers to a two-phase or multi-phase system in which a gas is dispersed in a condensed phase (liquid, gelled liquid, and / or solid) to form a foam structure. In some embodiments, the foam is a two-phase system comprising a gaseous phase dispersed in a liquid or gelled liquid phase. The term "foam" is intended to exclude conventional spraying. "Conventional spraying" refers to a system in which minute particles or droplets of liquid and / or solid are suspended in a gaseous phase.

[0030] According to some embodiments, the foam, after being expelled from a container onto the user's palm, appears as an opaque mass with a certain visible thickness. If left to rest undisturbed on the user's palm, the opaque mass can retain its shape and appearance, without significant visible change, for a period of time ranging from approximately two seconds to several hours or more. According to some embodiments, the opaque mass can retain its shape and appearance for at least approximately 10 seconds. According to some other embodiments, the opaque mass can retain its shape and appearance for a period of time of at least up to one minute, such as, for example two minutes, or for example five minutes, or for example ten minutes. During these periods of time, a significant portion of the bubbles or bubble cells may remain ("residual bubbles"). The residual bubbles may be polydisperse or relatively monodisperse.

[0031] According to some other embodiments, the foam may include at least a portion of the residual bubbles of dispersed gas in a range of about 0.25 mm to about 5 mm, for example from 0.5 mm to about 5 mm, for example from 1 mm to about 5 mm.

[0032] The size of residual bubbles can be determined using, for example, a DFA100 foam analyzer (KRÜSS GmbH Wissenschaftliche Laborgerate). Approximately five grams of product can be dispensed into the glass tube of the foam analyzer. An image can be acquired using the instrument's integrated camera one minute after the product is dispensed. [Fig. 1] shows an image of a basic makeup composition according to embodiments of the invention described herein, captured by this method, while [Fig. 2] shows an image captured from a conventional spray. Gray indicates trapped gas bubbles, while black indicates liquid or bubbles with a surface area of ​​less than approximately 4838 µm². Packaged makeup basics

[0033] Embodiments of the present invention relate to packaged makeup base products. "Packaged makeup base product" means a composition such as a makeup base composition contained in packaging or a primary container. This container may be made from various materials or constructions and is designed to protect and / or release the contents. According to a first embodiment (hereinafter, "high-pressure release"), the packaged makeup base product has a container made of a pressure-resistant material, such as metal, and designed to maintain the contents under high pressure. It may include a pressure valve that, for example, can be operated by a user to release its contents under pressure. In this embodiment, the foam may not exist inside the container but may be created during expulsion from the container.In a second embodiment (hereinafter referred to as "manual foam pump"), a non-aerosol packaging system creates foam by mixing the liquid contents in a foaming chamber and discharging the resulting composition through a mesh to create the foam.

[0034] According to the third embodiment (hereinafter "pre-existing foam"), the packaging is not configured to maintain the contents under high pressure, and the user can expel the contents, for example, by scooping, squeezing the container, extruding, etc. In this embodiment, the foam may exist at the inside of the container even before it is removed.

[0035] Contents of the packaged makeup base product / foam-forming composition

[0036] According to the high-pressure embodiment described above, the packaged makeup base product generally has various mechanical components such as a discharge valve or other optional mechanical packaging components (e.g., a pouch valve) as well as fluid components configured to be released under pressure. In this embodiment, the fluid components of the packaged makeup base product flow from the container when activated by a user. Some or all of these components may be released and / or incorporated into a resulting makeup base composition for application to a keratinous substrate.

[0037] In this embodiment, the fluid content of the packaged makeup base product may include the propellant described in more detail below as well as other fluid contents (for example, a "concentrate") which are mixed with the propellant.

[0038] In the high-pressure release embodiment, other fluid contents may include any of the various ingredients designed to be incorporated into the makeup base composition to be applied to the keratinous substrate. These ingredients are described in detail in this specification. In another embodiment of the high-pressure release method, a propellant is used to release the contents of the packaged makeup base product, but the propellant is isolated from the contents using a pouch valve configuration.

[0039] In certain embodiments of the high-pressure release method, as well as in the manual foam pump embodiment, the proportions and / or nature of the contents inside the container may be modified upon exiting the container. This transformation may include, for example, the creation of foam after expulsion from the container by mixing the propellant with the other fluid contents. The transformation may also include the creation of foam by manually pumping the contents of the packaging through a mesh. Finally, the transformation may include, for example, the loss of some of the propellant that escaped and was not incorporated into the foam.

[0040] In the embodiment of the pre-existing foam described above, the contents of the packaged makeup base product can be almost identical or identical to the makeup base composition, since no substantial transformation can occur in the contents before and after removal from the container.

[0041] The combination of the optional propellant and other fluid contents (for example, a concentrate intended for use in a high-pressure release system) in the packaged makeup base product collectively forms a foaming composition that transforms into foam when expelled, produced or otherwise removed from the container.

[0042] According to certain embodiments of the invention, the packaged makeup fixing product is configured to create a makeup base composition that has good foaming properties. In particular, the packaged makeup bases of the present invention may include a foam-forming composition that produces a slowly dissipating foam.

[0043] To evaluate the foam dissipation rate, the following foam slump rate test can be used. The foam slump rate can be determined using, for example, a DFA100FSM foam analyzer (KRÜSS GmbH Wissenschaftliche Laborgerate). A product to be tested is poured into the bottom of the instrument's glass tube, and the foam volume acquisition begins at this point. The volume is recorded at two times: when the foam has fully expanded (i.e., when the foam has reached its maximum volume), and when the foam has slumped (i.e., when the foam reaches its minimum volume after being dispensed). The foam slump rate is calculated as the change in volume over time.

[0044] According to certain embodiments of the invention, the sagging rate of the foaming composition may be less than about 0.7 ml / s or about 0.3 ml / s or about 0.05 ml / s or about 0.025 ml / s.

[0045] According to certain embodiments of the invention, the foaming composition includes water, a propellant, and a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer. The water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer may be present in the foaming composition at a concentration of approximately 0.5% to approximately 50% by weight. Furthermore, when dissolved or dispersed in water within the concentration range indicated above, the water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer may have a surface tension value (as described herein) of less than approximately 63 mN / m. In addition, the foaming composition may be practically free of surfactant. Makeup base composition

[0046] After the contents, such as the foaming composition, have been expelled or otherwise removed from the packaged makeup base product, the result is the production (in the case of high-pressure release) or distribution of a makeup base composition ready for application to keratinous materials. Film-forming, soluble, or water-dispersible.

[0047] The basic makeup compositions and foaming compositions of the present invention generally include a water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent. Those skilled in the art will readily understand the term "film-forming" or "film-forming agent" as used here, which refers to a material such as a polymer. or a resin that leaves a film (e.g., a continuous film) on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, been absorbed, and / or dissipated on or from the substrate. In some embodiments, the film-forming agent, when tested according to the following tensile test, forms a conforming coating and / or can be recovered or scraped off with a razor blade to be removed as a self-supporting film. Five to ten grams of material are placed in the center of a Leneta copy card (Black and White Opacity card Chart 2812, available from BYK Additives and Instruments of Geretsried, Germany), and using a 3-mil Drawdown Birdbar (also from BYK), the material is spread onto the sheet (20.32 cm x 7.62 cm, or 8 inches x 3 inches) and allowed to dry overnight. Cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable film-forming agents can be used in the present invention.In this document, "cosmetically acceptable" or "dermatologically acceptable" means that a composition is suitable for use in contact with human tissues such as keratinous materials and mucous membranes without toxicity, incompatibility, instability and / or excessive allergic reaction.

[0048] Furthermore, a person skilled in the art will appreciate that "water-soluble" refers to ingredients that dissolve completely in deionized water, such as in a concentration of 1 wt%, and remain dissolved at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for a year or more or indefinitely. Similarly, "water-dispersible" refers to ingredients that, although they do not dissolve completely in deionized water as a water-soluble ingredient would, do not visibly separate into a 1 wt% phase from water and can remain in that state for extended periods as described above. Water-dispersible ingredients may require small concentrations (for example, one-tenth or less, such as one-twentieth or less of the concentration of the ingredient to be dispersed) of dispersant to remain dispersed.Consequently, "water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers" are generally polymers that do not visibly separate into phases under the conditions described above when placed in 1 wt% deionized water, either alone or with small amounts of dispersant.

[0049] Suitable film-forming types include anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers.

[0050] Suitable anionic polymers may be homo- or copolymers with monomer units containing acid groups derived from natural or synthetic sources, which, if necessary, may be polymerized with comonomers that do not contain acid groups. Among the acid groups that may be considered are sulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, and car- acid groups. boxyl, of which carboxylic acid groups are preferred. Suitable monomers containing acid groups are, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid and maleic anhydride, maleic acid monoesters, in particular the C1 to C7 alkyl monoesters of maleic acid, as well as aldehyde carboxylic acids or ketocarboxylic acids.Examples of comonomers that are not substituted by acid groups include acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, vinyl caprolactone, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ester, vinyl alcohol, propylene glycol, or ethylene glycol; and vinyl monomers substituted by amines such as dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylate, and monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, the alkyl groups of these monomers being, for example, alkyl groups in C1 to C7.

[0051] Anionic polymers can be partially or totally neutralized with a basic neutralizing agent. The preferred degree of neutralization is from about 50% to about 100%, and from about 70% to about 100% is particularly preferred. An organic or inorganic base can be used as the neutralizing agent. Particular examples of bases are aminoalkanols such as, for example, aminomethylpropanol (AMP), triethanolamine, or monoethanolamine, as well as ammonia, NaOH, and KOH, among others.

[0052] The illustrated anionic polymers are acrylic polymers such as AMP acrylates / allyl methacrylate available in the form of Noveon's FIXATE G-100.

[0053] Suitable non-ionic film-forming agents include homo- or copolymers formed from at least one of the following monomers: vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl-caprolactam, vinyl esters such as, for example, vinyl acetate, vinyl alcohol, acrylamide, methacrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamide, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamide, alkyl acrylate, alkyl methacrylate, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol, the alkyl groups of these monomers being, for example, C1 to C7 alkyl groups. Suitable homopolymers are, for example, those of vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone or N-vinylformamide.Other synthetic, film-forming, non-ionic, hair-fixing polymers include, for example, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate ter-polymers, polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohols, and polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol copolymers. Suitable natural film-forming polymers include, for example, cellulose derivatives, such as hydroxyalkylcellulose.

[0054] For example, the non-ionic film-forming agent may be a polyvinylpyrrolidone, a poly- vinylcaprolactam, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, a vinyl polyalcohol, an isobutylene / ethylmaleimide / hydroxyethylmaleimide copolymer; vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl acetate, and vinyl propionate copolymers. In one notable embodiment, the nonionic film-forming agent is polyvinylcaprolactam, as commercially available from BASF under the name LUVISKOL PLUS.

[0055] Suitable cationic film-forming agents include cationic polymers, particularly those with primary, secondary, tertiary, or quaternary amino groups. Suitable cationic polymers preferably contain quaternary amino groups. Cationic polymers may be homo- or copolymers, where the quaternary nitrogen groups are contained either in the polymer chain or, preferably, as substituents on one or more of the monomers. Monomers containing ammonium groups may be copolymerized with non-cationic monomers.Suitable cationic monomers are radically polymerizable unsaturated compounds bearing at least one cationic group, particularly vinyl monomers substituted with ammonium groups, such as trialkylmethacryloxyalkylammonium, trialkylacryloxyalkylammonium, dialkyldiallylammonium, and quaternary vinylammonium monomers with cationic cyclic nitrogen groups like pyridinium, rimidazolium, or quaternary pyrrolidones, for example, alkylvinylimidazolium, alkylvinylpyridinium, or alkylvinylpyrrolidone salts. The alkyl groups of these monomers are preferably lower alkyl groups, such as C1 to C7 alkyl groups.

[0056] For example, cationic film-forming polymers may include quaternized cellulose ethers such as Polyquaternium 10 (hydroxyethylcellulose and hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride ether), Polyquaternium 4 (hydroxyethylcellulose, dimethyldiallylammonium chloride copolymer), quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone / acrylate or alkylamino methacrylate copolymers such as dimethyl sulfate salt; methylvinylimidazolium vinylpyrrolidone; N-methacryloyl ethyl-N,N'-dimethyl ammonium gamma-N-methyl carboxy betaine butyl methacrylate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

[0057] Suitable zwitterionic or amphoteric film-forming agents include polymers such as: copolymers formed from alkylacrylamide, alkylaminoalkyl methacrylate, and two or more monomers of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and, if necessary, their esters, in particular copolymers of octylacrylamide, acrylic acid, butylaminoethyl methacrylate, methyl methacrylate, and hydroxypropyl methacrylate (INCI name: Octyla-crylamide / Acrylate / Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer; for example, AMPHOMER of Nouryon); copolymers which are formed from at least one monomer of a first type having quaternary amino groups and at least one monomer of a second type having acid groups; copolymers formed from fatty alcohol acrylates, alkylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and, where applicable, esters of acrylic acid and esters of methacrylic acid, in particular copolymers formed from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, ethylamine oxide methacrylate and at least one monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and, where applicable, their esters; copolymers of methacryloyl ethyl betaine and at least one monomer selected from methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid esters;copolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and methacrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-47); copolymers from acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and acrylates or copolymers from acrylamide, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, 2-amidopropylacrylamide sulfonate and dimethylaminopropylamine (INCI name: Polyquaternium-43); oligomers or polymers, which may be produced from quaternary crotonoylbetaines or quaternary crotonoylbetaine esters. In certain embodiments of the invention, the water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer is chosen from those of Examples B3 to B12 in Table 5, described below, such as those in Examples B4 to B12, such as those in Examples B9 to B12, such as those in Examples B10 to B12.

[0058] The concentration of the water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent in the foaming composition or makeup base composition can be any concentration suitable for forming a continuous film on the keratinous substrate. In some embodiments, the concentration range is from approximately 0.5% to approximately 50%. In other embodiments, the weight concentration ranges from approximately 0.2%, 0.5%, 0.75%, or 1% to approximately 1%, 3%, 5%, 10%, or 20%. Similarly, the weight concentration of the water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent can be within these ranges when incorporated into the foaming composition or makeup base composition. Water

[0059] Foaming compositions used in packaged foundation products and makeup base compositions useful in the present invention include water to serve as a vehicle in which to dissolve or disperse the water-dispersible or water-soluble film-forming agent. The water concentration in the foaming composition may be within a range, for example, from approximately 10% to approximately 99%, such as approximately 15%, 25%, 40%, or 50% to approximately 50%, 70%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 99% by weight. In some embodiments, the above concentrations are calculated with respect to the entire foaming composition, excluding the propellant gas. In this embodiment, the mass / concentration of the propellant is not considered in the calculation. Similarly, the weight concentration of water can fall within the above ranges when incorporated into the makeup base composition. Propeller

[0060] As indicated above, in certain embodiments, a propellant is included in the foaming composition to provide a gas source to assist in expelling the contents of the packaged makeup base product and / or to act as a gas source to be incorporated into the makeup base composition. The propellant gas may be partially or totally incorporated into the makeup base composition.

[0061] The propellant gas can be any conventionally suitable liquefiable gas for pressure vessels. Preferably, the density of the propellant or its mixture is less than 1. Volatile liquefied propellants, such as dimethyl ether (DME), and / or linear or branched hydrocarbons of two to five carbon atoms, such as ethane, propane, butane, isobutane, isobutene, pentane, and tetrafluoropropene, used alone or in combination, are examples of materials suitable for use as propellants. In some other embodiments, such as the use of the "pocket valve" configuration, compressed air can be used as the propellant.

[0062] The weight concentration of the propellant in the foaming composition can be within a range, for example, from 1% to approximately 25%, such as approximately 2%, 4%, or 5% to approximately 10%, 15%, 20%, or 30% by weight. Similarly, the weight concentration of the propellant can be within these ranges when incorporated into the makeup base composition. Other components

[0063] Foaming compositions and makeup base compositions may, depending on the disclosure, include or exclude various ingredients useful for ensuring makeup base performance and / or foam creation, foam stability, and the like.

[0064] In certain embodiments, the foaming compositions and makeup base compositions of the present invention are essentially devoid of polymers that are neither soluble nor dispersible in water. Polymers that are neither soluble nor dispersible in water generally do not respond not to the definition of soluble or dispersible in water as described above. These polymers are, in some embodiments, soluble in non-polar or fatty compounds such as isododecane and / or in silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxane.

[0065] In some embodiments, foaming compositions and makeup base compositions may include surfactants or emulsifiers, for example, to enhance the foam. Suitable surfactants and emulsifiers include any anionic, nonionic, cationic, or amphoteric surfactant, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the term "surfactant" means a compound having at least one hydrophilic and at least one hydrophobic portion and which, when added to deionized water at a concentration of 0.25%, is capable of reducing the surface tension of water to less than about 60 mN / m, for example, less than about 50 mN / m. In some other embodiments, the definition of surfactant as used here is intended to exclude polymeric compounds.

[0066] The term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only cationic groups. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that may be used include polyoxyalkylated primary, secondary, or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. Examples include tetraalkyllammonium halides, such as chlorides, for example, dialkyldimethyllammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, as well as from 14 to 20 carbon atoms. As an example, one can choose behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (behentrimonium chloride), distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride (cetrimonium chloride) or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride.

[0067] In certain embodiments according to the disclosure, the compositions may include one or more anionic surfactants. The term "anionic surfactant" refers to a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups may optionally be selected from the following groups: CO2H, CO2, SO3H, SO3, OSO3H, OSO3, O2PO2H, O2PO2H, and O2PO22.

[0068] Non-limiting examples of anionic surfactants include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms. In some cases, the ten- Anionic sulfate-based surfactants may be excluded from one or more of the anionic surfactants. In such cases, the anionic surfactant(s) may be chosen from the group consisting of acyl isethionates, acyl glycinates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates and mixtures thereof, in which the alkyl and acyl groups of all such compounds comprise from 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

[0069] The useful non-ionic surfactant(s) may be chosen, for example, from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups ranging from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives may also be mentioned.Other examples include, but are not limited to, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerol fatty amides comprising, for example, 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as 1.5 to 4; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan comprising 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of alkyl (C6-C24) glycerol polyglycosides; N-alkyl (C6-C24) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as C10-C14 alkylamine oxides OR N-acyl (C10-C14) aminopropylmorpholine oxides; and mixtures thereof.

[0070] Non-limiting examples of amphoteric surfactants useful in compositions include, for example, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for example a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

[0071] Examples include alkyl (C8-C20) betaines, sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C20) sulfobetaines, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) betaines, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (Ci-C6) sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof. For example, compounds classified under the following INCI names may be mentioned: sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium lauroamphoacetate, sodium caproamphoacetate, and sodium capryloamphoacetate.

[0072] According to certain embodiments, the concentration of surfactants in foam-forming compositions and / or makeup base compositions useful in The present invention can be chosen so as not to interfere with or impair the foaming of the product and / or its performance (for example, by disrupting makeup application or causing subsequent resistance to makeup transfer). If present, the total amount of one or more surfactants can vary from approximately 0.001% to approximately 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In one embodiment of the invention, the foaming composition comprises less than approximately 0.5% by weight of surfactant. In some embodiments, such as when the surface tension of the foaming composition at the liquid-air interface (according to the processes described below) is less than approximately 63 mN / m, the packaged makeup base and / or the makeup base composition are practically free of surfactants and emulsifiers.

[0073] Foaming compositions and makeup base compositions useful in the embodiments provided herein may optionally include other components suitable for use in cosmetic compositions. These components may include, but are not limited to, colorants such as dyes / pigments that give color to the skin surface, such as those comprising iron or titanium oxides, thickening agents, humectants and moisturizing agents, fatty substances, fillers, antioxidants, sequestrants, perfumes, buffers, dispersants, plant extracts, volatile or non-volatile solvents, preservatives, sunscreens, vitamins, and pH adjusting agents.In some embodiments, makeup base products and makeup base compositions are practically free of fatty substances, such as oils and waxes. Those skilled in the art will recognize that "fatty substances" generally refer to water-incompatible and / or hydrophobic substances that do not meet the definition of a surfactant given here. The term "oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). A "wax" refers to lipophilic fatty compounds that are solid at room temperature (25°C) and reversibly change from solid to liquid, having a melting point above 30°C and, for example, above 45°C, up to 150°C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa at room temperature, and an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state.

[0074] Other optional components may be present in a range from about 0.0001% to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the compositions.

[0075] Foaming compositions and useful makeup base compositions according to the present invention may have a pH in a range from about 3.5 to about 9.5 as well as from about 4 to about 8.

[0076] Foaming compositions and makeup base compositions useful according to the present invention, in certain embodiments, have a surface tension measured at the air / liquid interface over a five-minute period (surface tension value) that is less than approximately 63 mN / m, in which the surface tension is approximately five minutes after dispensing and with the propellant removed from the composition. In other embodiments, the surface tension value is less than approximately 60 mN / m, for example, less than approximately 44 mN / m, for example, less than approximately 42 mN / m.

[0077] Surface tension measurements for calculating the surface tension value can be performed, for example, using the pendulum drop method at room temperature with an Attension Theta Optical Tensiometer (Biolin Scientific). The tensiometer can be equipped with an Automatic XYZ Sample Stage (T330) and an Automatic Single Liquid Dispenser (C201). The test is performed according to the equipment manufacturer's instructions. The propellant gas must be allowed to evaporate from the test samples to avoid interfering with the reading. The instrument is calibrated using a metal ball (NIST No. 821 / 263669-00), and the samples are introduced using a 1 ml glass syringe. The syringe is rinsed with ethanol and deionized water (DI) before each sample. Before starting measurements, any droplets on the needle are wiped away using Khnwipes™ disposable wipes.Normalization tests with DI water (70 to 72 mN / m surface tension) are performed before each sample. Each composition is tested in triplicate by analyzing a 5 pL droplet automatically dispensed at a rate of 2 pL / s. Data are collected at a rate of 6.0 FPS (frames per second) and analyzed using One Attension Software. The mean and standard deviation of each sample are then calculated using moving averages. The surface tension value (mN / m) is reported as the 5-minute reading. Manufacturing processes

[0078] The packaged makeup base product is prepared by combining the ingredients, including water and a water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent, in an optional heat-controlled container, while mixing until all the solids are dissolved or dispersed, thus providing an aqueous phase. An optional oily phase, if used, may be prepared and combined with the aqueous phase to form an emulsion. Gelling agents may be included to gel one or more of the phases, if necessary. The resulting compositions may be poured into a dispensing canister or other container, delimiting at least one compartment that includes the composition, optionally with a suitable amount of propellant, either mixed with the composition or in a separate bag (embodiment "valve"). pocket") for discharging the contents, possibly with the propellant. The container can be used in combination with an applicator comprising at least one application component configured to apply the composition to keratinous substances.

[0079] Water-soluble or water-dispersible materials can be mixed with water to form a "concentrate." This concentrate, in an appropriate quantity, can be placed in an aerosol container. The container can then be fitted with a valve, evacuated to remove air, and sealed with the valve "crimped" in place. The propellant fluid and propellant can then be introduced into the container through the valve to provide the foaming composition.

[0080] In other embodiments, the ingredients can be combined and sheared under high-speed mixing without a propellant gas, in order to create a stable foam at atmospheric pressure. This stable foam can be packaged as ready-to-use foam or as foam.

[0081] In another embodiment (as in the embodiment with a manual foam pump), the container is equipped with a manual pump device so that the contents of the packaging move through mesh to aerate the contents and form foam or a froth at an outlet nozzle. Systems and necessary

[0082] Embodiments of this disclosure further provide systems and kits including any of the packaged makeup bases described herein. In various embodiments, a kit includes a makeup application product. The makeup product is a packaged product that includes makeup to be applied to a keratinous substrate such as skin. The makeup product may be selected from one or more products including colorants. Examples include various products in liquid or powder form, such as primer, self-tanner, foundation, concealer, highlighter, blush, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, lipstick, lip pencil, lip gloss, and the like, and combinations of these products.

[0083] The kit also includes a packaged makeup base product that comprises water and a propellant. In some embodiments, the water and a propellant are mixed with other ingredients such as water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agents to form a foaming composition in a container of the packaged makeup base product. The packaged makeup base product is configured to provide a produced makeup base composition that comprises a gaseous phase dispersed in a condensed phase, wherein the gaseous phase comprises the propellant, and wherein the condensed phase further comprises a water-soluble or water-dispersible film-forming agent. The base composition of Makeup can be "produced" by activating, for example, a nozzle or pump so that the basic makeup composition forms a foam in situ, or it can be produced by pressing, extruding, or otherwise removing a pre-formed foam.

[0084] Methods for using basic makeup compositions

[0085] According to the disclosure, the methods include the treatment, care, or conditioning of keratinous substrates with the compositions described herein. The methods generally include the application of any of the disclosed base makeup compositions to the keratinous substrates, for example, to the skin. In some embodiments, the keratinous substrate is facial skin, including the neck, cheeks, forehead, eyes, lips, and the like. In other embodiments, the keratinous substrate is skin from other parts of the body, such as the legs, arms, and the like.

[0086] According to some embodiments, the process includes shearing the makeup base composition through the keratinous substrate to form a layer on it. The shearing may include manually bringing the applied makeup base composition into contact with the keratinous substrate to spread the applied makeup base composition onto said keratinous substrate. The shearing may be performed by spreading the foam onto the substrate using fingers or an applicator. The applicator may be attached to the packaged makeup base product or it may be a separate device designed to minimize the pressure applied to the substrate.

[0087] According to some embodiments, the process includes releasing a foam-forming composition from the packaged makeup base product to form a makeup base composition. The makeup base composition is then applied to the keratinous substrate as described above.

[0088] After applying the base makeup composition to the keratinous substrate to form a prepared keratinous substrate, a top coat makeup composition comprising a colorant can be applied to the prepared keratinous substrate. Those skilled in the art will readily recognize a top coat makeup composition comprising colorants such as: base, self-tanner, foundation, concealer, highlighter, blush, eyeshadow, eyeliner, mascara, lipstick, lip pencil, gloss, and the like, which include colorants such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide, interference pigments, effect pigments, and the like. Examples

[0089] The following examples are intended to be non-limiting and explanatory in nature only. In the examples, quantities are expressed as a percentage by weight (% by weight) of active ingredients. Example I - Makeup non-transfer

[0090] Four samples were prepared by adding a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer or a water-insoluble polymer and mixing it with water. The concentrate compositions were prepared by adding the polymer to deionized water. Specifically, water was loaded into a container and mixed on a Silverson homogenizer operating at 2000 rpm, and the polymer was added slowly until it was completely incorporated. For reference El, aminomethyl propanol was added to the polymer in a 1:5 ratio to neutralize the solution and incorporate the polymer.

[0091] The polymer in water is transferred into an aerosol container, and the container is sealed. A liquefied propellant, isobutene, is added to the container, creating a foaming composition comprising the polymer, water, and propellant. An actuator is placed on the container. The resulting weight concentrations are shown in Table 1 below.

[0092] [Tables 1] Formula El E2 E3 Cl Polymer Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate 1 2.5 0 0 0 5% AMP-acrylates / allyl methacrylate 2 0 2.5 0 0 Copolymer VP / acrylates / lauryl methacrylate 3 0 0 2.5 0 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone 4 0 0 0 2.5 Water 90.9 91.47 91.5 91.5 Propellant Isobutane 6 6 6 6

[0093] 1 AMPHOMER LV-71 from Nouryon

[0094] 2 FIXATE G-100PR from Lubrizol

[0095] 3 ACRYLIDONE LM from ISP Ashland

[0096] 4 PVP K30L from ISP Ashland

[0097] Two other comparative compositions were tested. They are described below. The comparative example C2 - ORIGINS ORIGINAL SKIN - Pore Perfecting Cooling Primer with Willowherb, available from Estee Lauder, is described on the packaging. described as a "fresh and airy foam." It is believed to contain no water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers. It is also thought to contain high concentrations of silicone oil and hydrocarbon oils.

[0098] Comparative example C3 - Milk Makeup Hydro Grip Primer available from Milk Studios is described on the packaging as a moisturizing and grippy makeup base. It is believed to contain high concentrations of surfactant as well as polyvinylpyrrollidone.

[0099] Next, 47 mL of each of the prepared concentrates (E1 to E3 and Cl) described above were filled into 100 mL Valspar 32S39MD Dot 2Q aluminum cans. A Precision Valve Corporation P10399 foam valve was clamped onto the can opening to create a seal. Three (3) g of propellant (isobutane) were then injected into the can, resulting in a propellant-to-concentrate ratio of 6:94. The product was then placed in a 55°C water bath for 1 hour to prevent any propellant leakage. The product was then removed from the bath and left undisturbed at room temperature overnight. Foam was dispensed from the product using a Precision Valve Corporation Mars actuator.

[0100] The test compositions, as well as a control sample, C0, in which no base was used, were evaluated using a makeup transfer resistance test. This test was performed by preparing an in vivo tape stencil of approximately 2.54 cm x 2.54 cm (1” x 1”) using tape on the forearm. The test compositions were applied to the stencil and dried for 10 minutes. A liquid foundation (L'Oréal Paris True Match Super-Blendable Liquid Foundation, an example of a makeup product containing a colorant) was applied and dried on the stencil for 10 minutes, as described above.

[0101] The model was then removed, leaving a square of a test composition layer onto which the foundation was applied. A finger was then dragged once across the surface of the substrate with moderate pressure, and the resulting trail was visually inspected and graded from 1 to 9. A "1," the most desirable grade, indicates that no trailing was observed. Grades 2 to 4 indicate slight trailing. 5 to 7 indicate moderate trailing. 8 and 9 indicate very significant trailing and poor performance.

[0102] The results are shown below.

[0103] [Tables2] Makeup Transfer Reference C0 (control, no base) 5 E1 2 E2 3 E3 2 C1 8 C2 8 C3 7

[0104] The results indicate that samples containing water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers (E1, E2, and E3) perform well. The comparative examples did not have desirable non-transfer performance. Example II - Foam Performance

[0105] A foam quality test was performed by depositing approximately 1 ml of product onto a weighing tray, visually inspecting the product, and then grading it. The term "high" indicates a foam that develops a significant volume after dispensing, exhibits little to no breakage, and has good rigidity. Generally, high foams remain stable for more than 10 minutes after dispensing. "Moderate" indicates a foam that has developed some volume, exhibited some breakage, and / or showed apparent accumulation of formula around the foam. Generally, moderate foams collapse within 10 minutes of dispensing. "Low" indicates a foam that has shown little to no development and rapid accumulation of formula. Generally, low foams collapse within one minute of dispensing.

[0106] Six samples were prepared by combining water, an isobutene propellant, and, for some examples, a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer or a water-insoluble polymer. The ingredients and concentrations are shown in Table 3.

[0107] [Tables3] Ref. Water Isobutane Water-soluble or dispersible polymer Water-insoluble / dispersible polymer Cl 89% 6% — — C2 89% 6% — 5% trimethylsiloxy silicate1 C3 89% 6% — 5% acrylates / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer E2 E1 89% 6% 5% octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate3 — E2 89% 6% 5% AMP-acrylates / allyl methacrylate 4 — E3 89% 6% 5% polyvinylparaben

[0108] 1 SILSOFT 74 from Momentive

[0109] 2 DOWSIL FA 4002 from Dow Chemical

[0110] 3 AMPHOMER LV-71 from Nouryon

[0111] 4 FIXATE G-100PR from Lubrizol

[0112] 5 LUVISOL PLUS from BASF

[0113] The concentrated compositions were prepared by adding the polymer to deionized water. More specifically, the water was loaded into a container and mixed on a Silverson homogenizer operating at 2000 rpm, and the polymer was added slowly until it was completely incorporated. For reference El, aminomethyl propanol was added to the polymer in a 1:5 ratio to neutralize the solution and incorporate the polymer.

[0114] Next, 47 ml of each of the concentrates prepared above were poured into 100 ml Valspar 32S39MD Dot 2Q aluminum cans. A Precision Valve Corporation P10399 foam valve was clamped onto the can opening to create a seal. Three (3) g of propellant (isobutane) were then injected into the can, resulting in a propellant-to-concentrate ratio of 6:94. The product was then placed in a water bath at 55°C for 1 hour to prevent any leakage of propellant gas. The product was then removed from the bath and stored at room temperature. ambient temperature at rest overnight. The foam was dispensed from the product using a Mars actuator from Precision Valve Corporation.

[0115] The results are shown below.

[0116] [Tables4] Ref. Foam Quality Cl LOW C2 LOW C3 LOW E1 HIGH E2 HIGH E3 MODERATE

[0117] The results indicate that samples containing water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers (E1, E2, and E3) perform well in this test. Samples in which the water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer (C1, C2, and C3) is replaced by water, or in which the polymers are not water-soluble or water-dispersible, did not perform as expected.

[0118] Example III - Surface tension and sagging rate of foam

[0119] Twelve test compositions (B1 to B12) or “concentrates” were prepared, eleven of which each contained 2.5% by weight of various film-forming polymers and one contained only water. Example B11 further included 0.52% aminomethylpropanol to neutralize the polymer in question. The different concentrates were evaluated for their surface tension value.

[0120] Surface tension measurements were carried out using the suspended drop method described in this specification. Surface tension value. The foam slump rate was determined using the foam slump rate test described in the specification. These results are shown in Table 5 below.

[0121] [Tables5] Reference Polymer Surface Tension (mN / m) Foam Sagging Rate (mL / s) B1 None 71.5 Not tested B2 POLYVINYLPYRROLLIDO NE 65.5 1.024 B3 POLYURETHANE-3 5 63.2 0.707 B4 POLYESTER-5 59.9 0.229 B5 POLYVINYLCAPROLACTA ME 56.6 0.243 B6 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM 52.5 0.191 B7 VP / VA COPOLYMER 49.1 0.843 B8 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 46.9 0.069 B9 POLYALCOHOL VINYL 44.2 0.011 B10 VP / ACRYLATES / METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER LAURYL 41.1 0.018 Bll OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE 34.6 0.024 B12 AMP-ACRYLATES COPOLYMER / ALLYL METHACRYLATE 34.3 0.009

[0122] The above results indicate that compositions with high surface tensions at the air / liquid interface create foams that collapse rapidly. It is therefore desirable that the compositions useful in the present invention have surface tension values ​​below approximately 63 mN / m, such as less than approximately 60 mN / m, such as less than approximately 44 mN / m, such as less than of approximately 42 mN / m. It is also desirable, according to certain embodiments, that the compositions useful in the present invention have foam slump rates of less than approximately 0.7 ml / s, such as less than approximately 0.3 ml / s, such as less than approximately 0.05 ml / s, such as less than approximately 0.025 ml / s, such as between approximately 0.005 ml / s and approximately 0.025 ml / s.

[0123] It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various modifications and variations can be made to the compositions and processes according to the disclosure without departing from the spirit or scope of the disclosure. It is therefore intended that the disclosure will cover these modifications and variations and their equivalents.

Claims

Demands

1. A process for treating keratinous substrates, comprising: actuation of a packaged makeup base product which includes a foaming composition to release a makeup base composition, wherein the foaming composition comprises a propellant gas; of about 40% to about 99% by weight of water; and about 0.5% to about 50% by weight of a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer selected from a group consisting of PO-LYURETHANE-35, POLYESTER-5, POLYVINYLCA-PROLACTAM, ACACIA SENECA GUM, VP / VA COPOLYMER, ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, POLYALCOHOL VINYL, VP / ACRYLATES / LAURYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, OCTYLACRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE and AMP-ACRYLATES / ALLYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, wherein the foam-forming composition has a surface tension value of less than about 44 mN / m;and wherein the foaming composition is substantially devoid of surfactant; the application of the makeup base composition to the keratinous substrate to form a prepared keratinous substrate; and the application of a makeup topcoat composition comprising a colorant to the prepared keratinous substrate; wherein the foaming composition has a foam settling rate of less than about 0.7 ml / s..;

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein the application of the makeup base layer composition to the keratinous substrate to form a prepared keratinous substrate thereon comprises shearing the makeup base composition onto the skin of a user to form a layer thereon.

3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the foaming composition is substantially devoid of film-forming agents that are neither soluble in water nor dispersible in water.

4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, in in which the foaming composition comprises less than about 0.5% by weight of surfactant.

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer is selected from a group consisting of VINYL POLYALCOHOL, VP / ACRYLATES / LAURYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, OCTYLA-CRYLAMIDE / ACRYLATES / BUTYLAML NOETHYL METHACRYLATE, and AMP-ACRYLATES / ALLYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER.

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