Cosmetic composition comprising an oily dispersion of polymer particles and an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles
A cosmetic composition with ethylenic copolymers and colloidal silica particles addresses the limitations of existing makeup by providing stable, long-lasting, and comfortable coverage on keratinous materials, overcoming issues with hot water, surfactants, and sebum resistance.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2020-12-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-24
AI Technical Summary
Existing cosmetic compositions for keratinous materials, such as skin, eyelashes, and eyebrows, fail to provide long-lasting, stable, and comfortable makeup that withstands hot water, surfactants, and sebum without producing sticky residues, and semi-permanent techniques like tattooing are painful and irreversible.
A composition comprising an oily dispersion of ethylenic copolymers with ethylenic monomers and polymeric stabilizing agents, and an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles, which forms a stable and long-lasting film on keratinous materials.
The composition achieves stable, long-lasting makeup that resists hot water, surfactants, and sebum, providing comfortable and effective coverage without sticky residues, while being safer and more convenient than semi-permanent techniques.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: Cosmetic composition comprising an oily dispersion of polymer particles and an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles
[0001] This application relates to the field of makeup using keratinous materials, particularly for skin, eyelashes, and eyebrows. More specifically, it concerns a composition comprising, preferably in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least: - an oily dispersion which comprises:
[0002] i) one or more particle(s) comprising:
[0003] a) one or more ethylenic copolymer(s) of aj (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, and a2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups; in particular a2) is a (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylic acid; and
[0004] ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) selected from:
[0005] b) polymers of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl (alkyl)acrylate monomers; and
[0006] c) copolymers of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl (alkyl)acrylate and (C3-Ci4) alkyl (alkyl)acrylate; and
[0007] iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil(s) and - an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles.
[0008] The invention also relates to a method of making up and / or caring for keratinous materials consisting of applying to the surface of said materials at least one composition as defined above.
[0009] Cosmetic makeup compositions are commonly used to provide aesthetic color to keratinous materials such as skin, eyelashes and eyebrows, but also to beautify uneven skin by concealing spots and dyschromia, and reducing the visibility of surface imperfections such as pores and wrinkles.
[0010] They can also be used to correct and harmonize the appearance of eyelashes or eyebrows. Numerous formulations have been developed to date. For some years now, consumers have been seeking compositions that provide good hold of the makeup effect over time, in particular makeup that withstands the daily test of showering or bathing in the presence of hot water and detergent surfactants, as well as perspiration and sebum, in order to avoid having to reapply the product too often.
[0011] There are semi-permanent makeup techniques such as tattooing and These include techniques like "microblading" and "microshading," which involve inserting colored pigment under the superficial layers of the skin using a needle. The application is painful, irreversible, and very expensive, unlike conventional makeup products which are very comfortable but generally do not last beyond a day.
[0012] Aqueous makeup formulations containing film-forming polymers dispersed in water such as latexes are resistant to sebum but do not withstand the test of showering or bathing (hot water and detergent surfactants).
[0013] Anhydrous mascara formulations and eyeliner formulations containing a dispersion in isododecane of particles of at least one polymer stabilized on the surface by a stabilizing agent are known from applications FR3030260 and EP3233193, the polymer of the particles being a Ci-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate polymer and at least one ethylenically unsaturated acid monomer or one of its salts, or its anhydride or one of their salts; The stabilizing agent is an isobornyl (meth)acrylate polymer selected from the homopolymer of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and the random copolymers of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth)acrylate to C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate greater than 4, and may contain waxes. However, these compositions, in the presence of waxes, tend to be unstable and heterogeneous due to wax recrystallization.They are also not entirely satisfactory in terms of coverage to effectively conceal or correct imperfections. Furthermore, they are sensitive to sebum and, upon contact with it, tend to produce a sticky, tacky residue.
[0014] There is therefore a need to find new compositions for semi-permanent makeup and / or skincare for keratinous materials without the drawbacks of known prior art techniques and formulations. The aim is to obtain formulations that are stable, comfortable, and long-lasting on keratinous materials, and in particular, that are resistant to hot water, surfactants, and sebum.
[0015] Unexpectedly, the applicant discovered during its research that it is possible to achieve this objective with a composition comprising, preferably in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least: - an oily dispersion which comprises:
[0016] i) one or more particle(s) comprising:
[0017] a) one or more ethylenic copolymer(s) of a1) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, and a2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups; in particular a2) is a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid; and
[0018] ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) selected from:
[0019] b) (Ci-C6) (alkyl)acrylate monomer polymers of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl; and
[0020] c) the copolymers of Ci) (Ci-C6) (alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl and of c2) (Ci-C4) (alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4) alkyl; and
[0021] iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil(s) and - an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles.
[0022] This discovery is the basis of the invention. Objects of the invention
[0023] Thus, a first object of the present invention is a composition comprising, preferably in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least: - an oily dispersion which comprises:
[0024] i) one or more particle(s) comprising:
[0025] a) one or more ethylenic copolymer(s) of a1 (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (C1-C4)alkyl, and a2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups; in particular a2) is a (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid; and
[0026] ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) selected from:
[0027] b) (Ci-C6) (alkyl)acrylate monomer polymers of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl; and
[0028] c) the copolymers of Ci) (Ci-C6) (alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2) cycloalkyl and of c2) (Ci-C4) (alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4) alkyl; and
[0029] iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil(s) and
[0030] - an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles.
[0031] A second object of the present invention is a method of making up and / or caring for keratinous materials consisting of applying to the surface of said materials at least one composition as defined above. Definitions
[0032] In the context of the present invention, "keratin fibers" means skin, eyelashes, and eyebrows. The term "keratin fibers," as used in the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes.
[0033] By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomforts (tingling, pulling), likely to deter the consumer from using this composition. I...................Ç H...........C............| - an "alkyl radical" is a CrC8 saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, especially in Ci-C6, preferably in C1-C4 such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl or i-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or i-butyl and tert-butyl or t-butyl; - an "alkylene radical" is a divalent saturated CrC8 hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, in particular in Ci-C6, preferably in C1-C4 such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene; - a "cycloalkyl" radical is a saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising 3 to 13 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, and can be substituted by one or more (Ci-C4)alkyl groups such as methyl such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is an isobornyl group. - a "cyclic" radical is a cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising 1 to 3 rings, preferably 1 ring, and comprising 3 to 10 carbon atoms such as cyclohexyl or phenyl; - an "aryl" radical is an unsaturated aromatic cyclic radical, comprising 6 to 12 carbon atoms, mono or bicyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring and 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl; - an "aryloxy" radical is an aryl-oxy radical i.e. aryl-O- with aryl as defined previously, preferably phenoxy; - an "aryl(Ci-C4)alkoxy" radical is an aryl-(Ci-C4)alkyl-O- radical, preferably benzoxy; - by "insoluble monomer" we mean any monomer whose homopolymer or copolymer is not in soluble form, that is to say completely dissolved at a concentration greater than 5% by weight at room temperature (20°C) in said medium. - by "ethylenic homopolymer" we mean a polymer resulting from the polymerization of identical monomers; - by "ethylenic copolymer" is meant a polymer resulting from the polymerization of different monomers, in particular at least 2 different monomers. Preferably the ethylenic copolymer of the invention is derived from 2 or 3 different monomers; - by "ethylenic monomer" is meant an organic compound comprising one or more unsaturations of the type >C=C<, conjugated or not, capable of polymerizing; - By "soluble monomer" is meant any monomer whose homopolymer or copolymer, preferably a homopolymer, is soluble at least 5% by weight, at 20 °C, in the hydrocarbon liquid fat(s) iii) of the dispersion. The homopolymer is completely dissolved in the carbon liquid(s) iii), visually at 20 °C. No deposit, precipitate, agglomerate, or insoluble sediment was visually observed. - By "fats," we mean an organic compound immiscible in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5%, preferably 1%, and even more preferably 0.1%). Their structure includes at least one hydrocarbon chain with at least six carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as ethanol, ether, petrolatum, or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane. These fats are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They differ from fatty acids because saline fatty acids constitute soaps, which are generally soluble in aqueous media. - by "liquid" fat, we mean in particular a fat that is liquid at 25 °C and 1 atmosphere, preferably said fat has a viscosity less than or equal to 7000 centipoles at 20 °C; - by "hydrocarbon" fat we mean a fat which comprises at least 50% by weight, in particular from 50 to 100% by weight, for example from 60 to 99% by weight, or even from 65 to 95% by weight, or even from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said fat, of carbon compound, having an overall solubility parameter according to the HANSEN solubility space less than or equal to 20 (MPa)1 / 2, or of a mixture of such compounds; - The overall solubility parameter θ according to the HANSEN solubility space is defined in the article "Solubility parameter values" by Grulke, in the book "Polymer Handbook" 3rd edition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559 by the relation θ = ( dD2 + dP2 + dH2)1 / 2 in which: - - dD characterizes the London dispersion forces arising from the formation of induced dipoles during molecular collisions, - dP characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles, - dH characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in HANSEN's article: "The three-dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967); - by "oil" we mean a liquid fat at room temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure; - By "hydrocarbon oil," we mean an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms. It can contain hydroxy, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups; - by "volatile oil" we mean an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with keratinous materials, in particular the skin, in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (103 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably, ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg); - by "non-volatile oil" we mean an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
[0034] Oily dispersion of solid polymer particles
[0035] The dispersions according to the invention are therefore made up of particles, generally spherical, of at least one polymer i) stabilized on the surface by one or more stabilizing agents ii), in a non-aqueous medium.
[0036] In order to obtain the dispersion, it is proposed to polymerize particular monomers capable of forming the polymeric core i) in the presence of a polymeric statistical stabilizing agent ii) comprising predominantly a soluble part ii) and minorly an insoluble part i) in the dispersion medium i.e. in the liquid hydrocarbon fat(s) iii) possibly containing iv) water.
[0037] Preferably, said particles i) are not, or only slightly, cross-linked
[0038] The polymer particles i) and the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are found in preference in the liquid hydrocarbon fat(s) iii) in quantity between 2 and 40% by weight, in particular between 4 and 35% by weight of soluble monomer (that forming the stabilizing agent(s) ii)) and between 60% and 98% by weight, in particular from 65 to 96% by weight of insoluble monomer (that forming the particles i)). Polymer particles i)
[0039] The particle(s) i) of the dispersion of the process of the invention is / are constituted of one or more ethylenic copolymer(s) resulting from the polymerization a1 of at least one (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate monomer of (C1-C4)alkyl and a2) of at least one ethylenic monomer comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups; in particular a2) is an acid (CrC4) (alkyl)acrylic.
[0040] Preferably the particle or particles i) is / are made up of an ethylenic polymeric core derived from copolymers a), as defined above.
[0041] By "ethylenic copolymer" is meant a polymer resulting from the polymerization of two monomers: of monomer aj (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl and of a2) ethylenic monomer comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as phenyl.
[0042] By "ethylenic monomer" is meant a compound comprising at least one ethylenic unsaturation -(Ra)C=C(Rb)-, -C(Ra)=C(Rb)-Rc or >C=C(Ra)-Rb, with Ra, Rb, and Rc, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, preferably hydrogen.
[0043] The ethylenic compound can also be a cyclic compound, preferably having 5 or 6 links, and comprising an ethylenic unsaturation.
[0044] By ethylenic monomer comprising "one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups" it is understood that the monomer is substituted on one of the carbon atoms of the polymeric monomer by one or more groups, preferably a single group, chosen from carboxy -C(O)-OH, phosphoric acid -OP(O)(OH)2 or -P(O)(OH)2, and sulfonic acid -OS(O)2-OH or -S(O)2-OH, maleic anhydride, and aryl such as phenyl.
[0045] According to one embodiment of the invention, the particle(s) i) comprise a) ethylenic copolymers of ai) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, and a2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl.
[0046] More particularly, ethylenic monomers a2) comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups are selected from (1), (2), (3), (4) and (5):
[0047] (1) Ri(R2)C=C(R3)-Acid with Rh, R2 and R3 representing a hydrogen atom or a group CO2H, H2PO4, or SO3H, and Acid representing a carboxy group, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid, preferably carboxy, preferably carboxy, preferably (1) represents (5) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OH with R representing a hydrogen atom, or an alkyl (CrC4) group such as methyl;
[0048] (2) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-N(R')-Alk-Acid with R and R', identical or different re feature a hydrogen atom, or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group; Alk represents a group (Ci-C6)alkylene optionally substituted by at least one group selected from Acid as defined above and hydroxy; and Acid is as defined above, preferably carboxy or sulfonic acid;
[0049] (3) Ar-(Ra) C=C(Rb)-Rc with Ra, Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, and Ar represents an aryl group, preferably benzyl, possibly substituted by at least one acid group (CO2H, H2PO4, or SO3H, preferably substituted by a CO2H or SO3H group) (4) Maleic anhydride of formula (4a) and (4b):
[0050] [Chem.3] O (4a) (4b) Formulas (4b) and (4b) wherein Ra, Rb, and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl (CrC4) group, preferably Ra, Rb, and Rc represent a hydrogen atom. Preferably, the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (4b) and more preferably is maleic anhydride; and more particularly a2) is chosen from (1) and (4), in particular (4) and (5).
[0051] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, a2) is (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylic acid, more particularly b) is(are) copolymers of (CrC4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylic acid.
[0052] According to another embodiment of the invention, a2) is selected from crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, acrylamiopropanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoglycolic acid, and their salts, more preferably a2) represents maleic anhydride
[0053] The salts can be chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium, potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium; metallic salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4+; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as methylamine, diethylamide, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine, tri-(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine, arginine salts.
[0054] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomer(s) (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl aj are chosen from those of formula (I):
[0055] [Chem.2] HzC=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (0
[0056] Formula (I) wherein:
[0057] - R representing a hydrogen atom or (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and
[0058] - R' representing a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i- propyl, n-butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl or i-butyl,
[0059] preferably (I) represents a C1-C4 alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and isobutyl methacrylate.
[0060] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an ethylenic acrylate copolymer a) obtained from the polymerization: - aj of at least one monomer of formula (I) as defined above, preferably a Ci-C4 alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and isobutyl methacrylate; and - a2) of at least one monomer chosen from (1), (2), (3), and (4) as defined above and preferably of formula (II) as well as its salts:
[0061] [Chem.3] HSC=C(R)-C(O>OH (ll| Formula (II) in which R as defined above, in particular (II) represents acrylic acid.
[0062] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the quantity in a2) in particular in compound (II) and in particular of acrylic acid is greater than 2.5% by weight in relation to the total weight of particle i), more particularly between 3% and 35% by weight in relation to the weight of monomers of particle i), even more particularly between 5% and 25% by weight and the polymer of particles i), better between 10% and 15% by weight and the polymer of particles i).
[0063] In particular a) is a copolymer resulting from the copolymerization a2) of acrylic acid with aj one or more CrC4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers, preferably of at least 2 different CrC4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers, in particular selected from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate and butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate.
[0064] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an ethylenic acrylate copolymer a) obtained from the polymerization:
[0065] - of at least two different monomers: of formula (I) as defined above Previously, preferably CrC4 alkyl acrylates such as methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate; and
[0066] - of at least one monomer chosen from (1), (2), (3), and (4) as defined above previously, preferably formula (II) as defined above.
[0067] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer of particles i) is a polymer derived from monomers ai) of alkyl (meth)acrylate in Ci-C4.
[0068] Advantageously, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl acrylate monomer is used, preferably linear, particularly in the (C1-C3) configuration. Preferably a) is chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.
[0069] The monomers al) are preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate and more preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate.
[0070] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an acrylate copolymer a) derived from: aj of at least one monomer of formula (I) as defined above; and a2) of at least one monomer of anhydride with ethylenic unsaturation in particular of formula (4) as defined above.
[0071] Particularly the polymer of particles a) is a linear or branched (meth)acrylate alkyl monomer polymer in Ci-C4, preferably linear in particular in (Ci-C3) alkyl and a2) of anhydride monomer with ethylenic unsaturation.
[0072] The monomers ai) are preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate.
[0073] Advantageously, one or two different C1-C4 alkyl acrylate monomers ai) are used, linear or branched, preferably linear, particularly in the (C1-C3) position. Preferably, ai) is chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.
[0074] According to a particular embodiment, one or two different monomers of (meth)acrylate in a branched (C3-C4)alkyl form are used. Preferably, a1) is chosen from isobutyl acrylate and isobutyl methacrylate.
[0075] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the ethylenic unsaturation anhydride compound(s) a2) of the invention are selected from the derivatives of maleic anhydride (4a) and itaconic anhydride (4b) as defined above.
[0076] More preferably, the ethylenic unsaturation anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (4a) and even more preferably is maleic anhydride.
[0077] The polymer of the particles can be chosen from: methyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers; ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers; and methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers.
[0078] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the copolymer(s) of the particles i) of the oily dispersion comprise 80 to 95% by weight of ingredient ai) and 5 to 20% by weight of ingredient a2), relative to the total weight of the copolymer(s).
[0079] More particularly, the polymer of particles i) preferably comprises 80 to 93% by weight of ingredient ai) in particular C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate and 7 to 20% by weight of ingredient a2) relative to the total weight of polymer i). More preferably, the polymer of particles i) preferably comprises 85 to 93% by weight, more particularly 87 to 92% by weight, even more preferably 85 to 90% by weight of ingredient al) in particular C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate and 10 to 20% by weight of ingredient a2) relative to the total weight of the polymer.
[0080] Advantageously, the polymer of particles i) is a non-crosslinked polymer.
[0081] According to one embodiment of the invention, the copolymers i) are selected from: - methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers and its salts; - methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers; - methyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers and its salts; - ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers and its salts; - methyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers; and - ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymers. - Isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymers and its salts - isobutyl acrylate / isobutyl methacrylate / acrylic acid copolymers and its salts.
[0082] The polymer of particles i) of the dispersion preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol.
[0083] The polymer of particles i) can be present in the dispersion (A) in a content of 20 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion, in particular between 21% and 58.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion, preferably between 30 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the dispersion, more preferably between 36% and 42% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A).
[0084] Preferably the particle(s) i) are made of copolymer of aj and a2).
[0085] According to a particular embodiment of the invention the particles i) are made of copolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers aj and a2) with a weight ratio a1) / a2) is inclusively between 4.4 and 20, more particularly between 5.5 and 19, preferably between 6.5 and 16, even more preferably between 6.6 and 15.6.
[0086] The polymer particle(s) i) of the dispersion (A) preferably have an average number size ranging from 5 to 600 nm, in particular ranging from 10 to 500 nm, and better still ranging from 20 to 400 nm The stabilizing agent(s) ii)
[0087] The dispersion (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more stabilizing agents (ii). Preferably, only one type of stabilizing agent (ii) is used in the invention.
[0088] The stabilizing agent(s) of the invention is / are made up of ethylenic polymers selected from b) polymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl monomers; and c) copolymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl and (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl. Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) of the invention is / are made up of ethylenic polymers selected from c) copolymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl and (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl.
[0089] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent ii) is / are made up of ethylenic polymers selected from: b) monomer polymers of formula H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R''(III) with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R'' representing a (C5-CiO)cycloalkyl group such as norbornyl, or preferably isobomyl; and c) the copolymers of Ci) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” (III) in which R and R” have the same meanings indicated previously in b) and of c2) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (I) in which R has the same meaning as in formula (III) and R' represents a (Ci-C4)alkyl group.
[0090] According to a particular embodiment, the stabilizing agent(s) of the invention is / are made up of ethylenic polymer(s) chosen from b) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate monomer polymers of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl, particularly of formula (III) as defined above.
[0091] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) of the invention is / are made up of ethylenic polymer(s) chosen from c) copolymers of Ci) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl particularly of formula (III) as defined above and of c2) (CrC4 )(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl particularly of formula (I) as defined above.
[0092] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the ingredient c2) is a (C, C4) )(alkyl)acrylate monomer of (CrC4)alkyl in particular of formula (I) more particularly selected from methyl (meth)acrylate and ethyl (meth)acrylate, more preferably methyl (meth)acrylate.
[0093] According to another particular embodiment of the invention, ingredient c2) is a mixture of several different (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate monomers of (Ci-C4)alkyl, in particular 2 different (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate monomers of (Ci-C4)alkyl, in particular of formula (I), more particularly chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate and ethyl (meth)acrylate.
[0094] In particular, the stabilizing agent ii) is selected from b) polymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate monomers of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl; and (c) statistical copolymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl and (C1-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Cl-C4)alkyl with a weight ratio (Ci) / c2) greater than 4. Advantageously, said weight ratio is from 4.5 to 19. More advantageously, said weight ratio (Ci) / c2) is from 5 to 15, and more preferably, said weight ratio is from 5.5 to 12.
[0095] More particularly, the stabilizing agent ii) is a polymer selected from b) the homopolymer of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and c) the random copolymers cj of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and c2) of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate preferably present in a weight ratio of isobornyl (meth)acrylate / C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate ((ci) / c2)) greater than 4. Advantageously, said weight ratio Ci) / c2) ranges from 4.5 to 19. Advantageously, said weight ratio Ci) / c2) ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio Ci) / c2) ranges from 5.5 to 12.
[0096] For these statistical copolymers, the defined weight ratio makes it possible to obtain a stable polymer dispersion, in particular after storage for 7 days at room temperature.
[0097] Advantageously, the stabilizing agent is selected from: b) isobornyl acrylate homopolymers, c) isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate statistical copolymers, isobornyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate statistical copolymers, and isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate statistical copolymers according to the weight ratio described above.
[0098] The stabilizing polymer ii) preferably has a number average molecular weight ranging from 10,000 to 400,000, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 200,000 g / mol.
[0099] The stabilizer ii) is in contact with the surface of the polymer particles i) and thus makes it possible to stabilize these particles on the surface for the maintenance of these particles in dispersion in the dispersion medium (A).
[0100] More specifically, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from c) copolymers of: (Ci) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl; and c2) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl; with 80 to 95% by weight of ingredient c1) in particular isobornyl (meth)acrylate and 5 to 20% by weight of ingredient c2) in particular methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate relative to the total weight of the stabilizing agent.
[0101] More preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) comprise 85 to 94% by weight, more particularly 87% to 93% by weight, of ingredient Ci) in particular isobotyl (meth)acrylate and 10 to 20% by weight of ingredient c2) in particular ethyl acrylate and / or ethyl acrylate relative to the total weight of the polymer.
[0102] Advantageously, the set ii) stabilizing agent(s) + i) particle(s) of polymer(s) present in dispersion (A) comprises from 5 to 60%, in particular comprises from 10 to 40% by weight of polymer(s) b) or c) and from 60 to 90%, in particular from 61 to 89% by weight of polymer(s) a), relative to the total weight of the whole ii) stabilizing agent(s) + i) polymer particle(s).
[0103] Preferably, the assembly ii) stabilizing agent(s) + i) polymer particle(s) present in the dispersion comprises 15 to 30% by weight of polymers b) or c) and 70 to 85% by weight of polymers a), relative to the total weight of the assembly ii) stabilizing agent(s) + i) polymer particle(s).
[0104] Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) and the particle(s) i) have a number average molecular weight (Mn) between 1000 and 1,000,000 g / mol, in particular between 5,000 and 500,000 g / mol and even better between 10,000 and 300,000 g / mol.
[0105] The dispersion (A) according to the invention is ultimately formed of polymeric particles, of a fairly large diameter, i.e. preferably greater than 100 nm, and leads to film-forming deposits, shiny and resistant to grease at room temperature (25 °C), of particular interest for makeup applications.
[0106] The final particle size is greater than 100 nm. In particular, an average number size ranging from 100 nm to 600 nm; more particularly ranging from 150 nm to 500 nm, and even more particularly ranging from 160 nm to 400 nm.
[0107] The average particle size is determined by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. A MALVERN NanoZS laser particle size analyzer (particularly well-suited to submicron dispersions) is used to measure the size distribution of these samples. The operating principle of this type of instrument is based on dynamic light scattering (DLS), also known as quasi-elastic light scattering (QELS) or photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS).
[0108] The sample is pipetted into a single-use plastic cuvette (4 transparent sides, 1 cm square and 4 mL capacity) placed in the measuring cell. The data are analyzed using a cumulant method, which leads to a unimodal particle size distribution characterized by an intensity mean diameter d (nm) and a size polydispersity factor Q. The results can also be expressed as statistical data such as D10, D50 (median), D90, and the mode.
[0109] Other particle size analysis techniques can obtain this type of information, such as Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis (NTA), laser diffraction (DL), acoustic extinction spectroscopy (AES), spatial filter Doppler velocimetry or image analysis.
[0110] The hydrocarbon oil(s) iii)
[0111] The oily medium of the polymer dispersion comprises at least one hydro oil carbonaceous iii).
[0112] Hydrocarbon oil is a liquid oil at ambient temperature (25 °C) and atmospheric pressure.
[0113] By hydrocarbon oil is meant an oil formed essentially, or even composed, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
[0114] The hydrocarbon oil may be selected from: - hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular: - C8-Ci4 branched alkanes such as petroleum-derived C8-Ci4 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or Permetyls, - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 respectively, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (Cb) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Société Cognis, and their mixtures, - hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides made up of esters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils include triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip; shea butter;or even the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéa-rineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, ; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof, - synthetic esters such as oils with the formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 atoms of carbon and R2 represent a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a branched one, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is > 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, benzoates of alcohols in the C12 to C15 groups, hexyl laurate, dii-sopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate ; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate;polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, - fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chains having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol. ;
[0115] Advantageously, the hydrocarbon oil(s) of the invention are formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms.
[0116] Preferably, the oily dispersion comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil iii) formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, preferably selected from:
[0117] - linear or branched C8-C30 alkanes, in particular C10-C20, more particularly C10-C16 bonds, volatile or non-volatile; preferably volatile
[0118] - cyclic, non-aromatic, C5-Ci2 alkanes; volatile or non-volatile; of prefer volatiles, and
[0119] - their mixtures.
[0120] The hydrocarbon oil(s) are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular having 10 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably volatile, more particularly non-polar oils, described previously.
[0121] Among the C8-Ci6 branched alkanes, particularly the C10-Ci4 branched alkanes suitable as liquid hydrocarbon fats iii) in the dispersion of the invention, the following may be mentioned:
[0122] - petroleum-derived isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodocan and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Permetlys;
[0123] - linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (Ci2) and n-tetradecane (C i4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the n-undecane (Cn) and n-tridecane (C13) mixtures from the Cognis company, and their mixtures.
[0124] Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon oil(s) iii) of the invention are formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, more specifically isododecane.
[0125] According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrocarbon oil(s) are a mixture of non-volatile oil and volatile oil, preferably the mixture comprises isododecane as the volatile oil. In particular, the non-volatile oil in the mixture is a phenyl silicone oil, preferably selected from pentaphenyl silicone oils.
[0126] Preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon oil(s) iii) are present in the dispersion of the invention in an amount of between 15% by weight and 80% by weight, more preferably between 20% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said oil dispersion. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of the sum of the ingredients [i) + ii)] / iii) is less than or equal to 1, more particularly [i) + ii]] / iii) the mass ratio is between 0.5 and 1.
[0127] The polymer particles i) of the dispersion preferably have an average size, in particular in number, ranging from 50 to 500 nm, in particular ranging from 75 to 400 nm, and better ranging from 100 to 250 nm.
[0128] In general, the dispersion according to the invention can be prepared in the following manner, given by way of example. Non-volatile oils
[0129] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
[0130] By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
[0131] By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 103 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
[0132] These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.
[0133] The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and phosphorus atoms.
[0134] For the purposes of the present invention, "siliconized oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
[0135] Examples of non-volatile hydrocarbon oils include: - vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as fatty acid and glycerol triesters, whose fatty acids can have varying chain lengths from C4 to C24, these chains being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cottonseed, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, rosehip; or caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; - synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - synthetic esters such as oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that Ri + R2 is > 10, such as Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate in Ci2 to Ci5, hexyl laurate, dii-sopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate of isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and esters of pentaerythritol; - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.
[0136] The non-volatile silicone oils usable in the composition according to the invention can be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethyl-siloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, each group having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.
[0137] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil or oils are present in the composition in a total concentration of less than 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Method for preparing the dispersion
[0138] Without being limiting, in general, the dispersion according to the invention can be prepared in the following manner:
[0139] - Polymerization is carried out in "dispersion" in a non-aqueous medium, i.e. by precipitation of the polymer during formation, with protection of the particles formed with one or more stabilizing agents ii), preferably a single type of stabilizing agent ii) chosen from b) and c) as defined above.
[0140] - In a first step, the stabilizing polymer (or stabilizing agent) is prepared ii)) by mixing the monomer(s) constituting the stabilizing polymer b) or c), with iv) a radical initiator, in a solvent called the synthesis solvent, and polymerizing these monomers; then
[0141] - In a second step, the stabilizing polymer ii) formed in step previous, the monomers constituting the polymer of particles i) and the polymerization of these added monomers is carried out in the presence of the radical initiator.
[0142] - In a third step, water is added and all the ingredients i) + ii) are stirred in the reactor before removing the dispersion. When the non-aqueous medium is a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil iii), polymerization can be carried out in a non-polar organic solvent (synthetic solvent) then the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (which must be miscible with said synthetic solvent) is added and the synthetic solvent is selectively distilled.
[0143] The synthesis solvent may consist of hydrocarbon oil iii) associated with an additional solvent in particular chosen from linear or branched aliphatic hydrocarbon chain esters, having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate.
[0144] At the end of step 1, when the synthesis solvent is a mixture, the additional solvent containing the hydrocarbon aliphatic chain esters as defined above is removed by a conventional method for those skilled in the art, such as distillation. The polymers of the particles i) are recovered in the hydrocarbon oil iii).
[0145] A synthetic solvent is therefore chosen such that the monomers of the polymeric stabilizing agent(s) ii), and the radical initiator iv), are soluble in it, and that the polymer particles i) obtained are insoluble in it so that they precipitate during their formation.
[0146] In particular, the synthetic solvent is chosen which is organic, nonpolar and volatile, preferably chosen from among volatile hydrocarbon oils iii) in particular alkanes such as heptane, cyclohexane or isododecane, preferably isododecane.
[0147] When the non-aqueous medium is a volatile hydrocarbon oil (iii), polymerization can be carried out directly in said oil, which thus also acts as a synthesis solvent. The monomers must also be soluble in it, as well as the radical initiator, and the polymer of particles i) obtained must be insoluble in it.
[0148] The monomers are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, prior to polymerization, at a concentration of 15% to 45% by weight. All of the monomers may be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or some of the monomers may be added as the polymerization reaction progresses.
[0149] Polymerization is preferably carried out in the presence of iv) one or more radical initiators which may be any initiator known to the person skilled in the art for radical polymerization such as peroxide initiators, azo initiators, redox couples, and photochemical initiators.
[0150] Examples include those of the type: - peroxide, in particular chosen from among tert-butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate: Trigonox 21S; 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-di(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)hexane: Trigonox 141; tert-butyl peroxypivalate: Trigonox 25C75 from AkzoNobel; or - azoic in particular chosen from AIBN: azobisisobutyronitrile; V50: 2,2' -azo-bis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride.
[0151] Polymerization is preferably carried out at a temperature of 70 to 110 °C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0152] The polymer particles i) are stabilized on the surface, when they form during polymerization, by means of the stabilizing agent ii).
[0153] Stabilization can be achieved by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the stabilizing agent ii), during polymerization.
[0154] The stabilizing agent ii) is preferably also present in the mixture before polymerization of the monomers of the polymer of particles i). However, it is also possible to add it continuously, in particular when the monomers of particles i) are also added continuously.
[0155] From 2 to 40% by weight, particularly from 3 to 30% by weight, more particularly from 4 to 25% by weight of the stabilizing agent(s) ii) can be used in relation to the total weight of monomers used (stabilizing agents ii) + polymer particles i), and preferably from 4.5 to 20% by weight.
[0156] The dispersion of polymer particles i) advantageously comprises from 30 to 65% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said dispersion, and preferably from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said dispersion.
[0157] The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a dry matter (or active matter) content of particle polymers i) + dispersing polymers ii) ranging from 10 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 20 to 60% by weight, in particular 30 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0158] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the dispersion of the invention does not includes not more than 3% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the dispersion, preferably not more than 2% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the dispersion, more particularly not more than 1% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the dispersion, even more preferably the composition includes not more than 0.5% by weight of surfactants relative to the total weight of the dispersion, even better the mixture includes no surfactant.
[0159] In a particular preparation method, the statistical stabilizing polymer ii) is prepared in a first step. This stabilizing polymer is soluble in a nonpolar organic solvent of the alkane type such as isododecane.
[0160] Then, in a second step, the polymer particles are synthesized i) in the presence of the stabilizing polymer ii).
[0161] Preferably, a solution of stabilizing polymer is prepared ii) in the hydrocarbon oil(s) iii) for the final dispersion, and the polymerization of the monomers that form the core of the particle is carried out in the presence of this stabilizer ii).
[0162] The stabilizing polymer ii) can be prepared by radical polymerization optionally in the presence of polymerization initiator iv) as defined above.
[0163] In a second step, the monomers that form the core of particle i) can be polymerized in the presence of said stabilizing polymer ii). This second step can be a conventional radical polymerization.
[0164] Then water or an aqueous composition is added, preferably under stirring.
[0165] The dispersions are carried out in the presence of one or more hydrocarbon oil(s) iii) preferably in a nonpolar organic solvent, in particular of alkane type such as isododecane, according to a process that is industrially realistic.
[0166] The dispersions according to the invention are therefore ultimately formed of polymeric particles, of a fairly large diameter (preferably greater than 100 nm), and will lead to film-forming deposits, shiny and resistant to grease at the observation temperature (25°C).
[0167] Moreover, since the dispersion is in an oily medium with the presence of water, it becomes easy to formulate it in cosmetic compositions based on oily media commonly used in cosmetics, in particular anhydrous media or in the oily phases of emulsions, but also in aqueous media to allow the solubilization of water-soluble active ingredients.
[0168] Advantageously, the oily dispersion may include a plasticizing agent selected from tri-n-butyl citrate, tripropylene glycol monomethyl ether (INCI name: PPG-3 Methyl Ether), or trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (sold under the name DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID by Dow Corning). These plasticizers improve the mechanical strength of the film. polymer.
[0169] The plasticizing agent is preferably present in the oily dispersion at a content of 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the polymer of the particles.
[0170] Preferably, a dispersion in iii) in particular isododecane of particles i) of surface-stabilized polymer chosen from: - a dispersion in isododecane of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer particles (24.5 / 62.8 / 12.7) stabilized by a statistical copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4); the oily dispersion containing in total (stabilizer + particles) 10% acrylic acid, 20% methyl acrylate, 50% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate; -a dispersion in isododecane of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer particles (11.7 / 75.6 / 12.7) stabilized by a statistical copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4); the oily dispersion containing in total (stabilizer + particles) 10% acrylic acid, 10% methyl acrylate, 60% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate; - a dispersion in isododecane of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymer particles (50 / 37.2 / 12.8) stabilized by a statistical copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4); the oily dispersion containing in total (stabilizer ii) + particles i)) 10% maleic anhydride, 30% methyl acrylate, 40% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate.
[0171] More preferably, a dispersion in isododecane of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer particles (11.7 / 75.6 / 12.7) stabilized by a statistical copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4) will be used; the oily dispersion containing in total (stabilizer ii) + particles i)) 10% acrylic acid, 10% methyl acrylate, 60% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate.
[0172] The quantity of oily dispersion of particles i) in the composition of the invention, preferably varies from 20% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water
[0173] The composition according to the invention comprises, preferably, a quantity of water greater than or equal to 2% by weight and less than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably the quantity of water in the composition is between 5% and 49% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, particularly between 10% and 47% by weight, between 15% and 48% by weight, preferably typically between 18% and 45%, even more preferentially between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous dispersion of colloidal particles
[0174] The compositions according to the invention comprise at least an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles.
[0175] For the purposes of this invention, "colloidal particles" means particles having an average number diameter between 0.1 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 30 nm, and even better, between 10 and 15 nm. These particles retain the aforementioned diameters in the composition containing them, without aggregating, and therefore do not have thickening properties in the sense that, at a concentration greater than or equal to 15% by weight in water, the colloidal particles exhibit a viscosity of less than 0.05 Pa.s for a shear rate of 10 *s, the viscosity being measured at 25°C using a HAAKE RheoStress® RS 150 rheometer in cone-plate configuration, the cone having a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2°.
[0176] This dispersion of colloidal particles can be prepared according to the so-called "sol-gel" process, well known to those skilled in the art, from salts or alkoxides of the corresponding metals solubilized in a solvent, such as an alcohol. A hydrolysis reaction is then carried out to form an amorphous precipitate. This is then dispersed in water with an acid or a base, depending on the desired pH, which leads to the peptization of the precipitate and crystallization. A crystalline oxide dispersed in water is thus formed.
[0177] Such colloidal aqueous suspensions can for example be prepared according to the processes described in J. Colloid Interface Sci., 26, p. 62-69, 1968 for SiO2, Appli. Opt. 26, 4688, 1987 for TiO2, Inorg. Chem., 3, 146, 1964 for ZrO2, Appl. Opt., 27, 3356, 1988 for CaF2 and MgF2.
[0178] These suspensions are prepared using ionic precursors most often chosen from chlorides, oxychlorides, perchlorates, nitrates, oxynitrates, or acetates, or preferably molecular precursors chosen from alkoxides, with the molar formula M(OR)n (where M represents a metal, OR an alkoxy radical of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and n represents the valence of the metal). In the methods described above, the precursor is hydrolyzed or fluorinated and then polymerized until a finished product is obtained, insoluble in the chosen solvent, nucleated, and called a colloidal suspension. In the case of alkoxides, hydrolysis must be rigorously controlled given the highly hydrophilic nature of these organometallic derivatives.
[0179] Another process for preparing such products is described in J. LIVAGE et al., "SOL-GEL SYNTHESIS OF METAL OXIDE CLUSTERS AND COLLOIDS" (MAT. RES. SOC. SYNT. PROC., Volume 272, pages 3 to 14).
[0180] The colloidal particles may alternatively consist of a mixed oxide, in particular a composite silica-alumina filler.
[0181] For the purposes of this invention, "silica-alumina composite filler particles" means particles made of silicon oxide whose surface has been chemically modified to replace at least some of the silicon atoms with aluminum atoms, forming at most a single-molecular layer of aluminum. Their aluminum-coated surface portion is generally
[0182] They can be prepared, in particular, as described in US patent 2,892,797, by mixing a silica sol with a sodium aluminate.
[0183] The aqueous dispersions of colloidal silica particles according to the present invention preferably contain the silica particles in concentrations ranging from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 25 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous dispersion.
[0184] The colloidal silica particles according to the invention are preferably anionic and amorphous silica particles.
[0185] For the purposes of this invention, "anionic particles" means silica particles bearing anionic charges on their surface, in particular neutralized by one or more cations.
[0186] Such particles are obtained for example by reacting silanol groups on the surface of silica particles with alkaline agents such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or ammonium hydroxide (NH4OH).
[0187] These particles are preferably spherical or approximately spherical.
[0188] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, these particles are non-porous.
[0189] The anionic colloidal silica particles according to the invention can be monodisperse or polydisperse.
[0190] For the purposes of this invention, "monodisperse" means a narrow distribution of particle sizes. Conversely, "polydisperse" for the purposes of this invention means a wider distribution of particle sizes.
[0191] Preferably, the anionic colloidal silica particles according to the invention are monodisperse.
[0192] The average diameter of anionic silica colloidal particles is generally between 3 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 50 nm, more preferably between 5 and 10 nm.
[0193] This average diameter can be measured by a particle size distribution analyzer of the Culter N4 PLUS® type manufactured by Bechman Coulter INC.
[0194] When the anionic colloidal silica particles are monodisperse, their average diameter is preferably between 3 and 50 nm, in particular between 5 and 25 nm, more preferably between 5 and 10 nm.
[0195] When anionic colloidal silica particles are polydisperse, their average diameter is preferably between 5 and 70 nm, in particular between 10 and 50 nm.
[0196] The specific surface area of anionic colloidal silica particles generally varies from 50 to 500 m2 / g SiO2.
[0197] The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmet-Teller) method, described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society," Vol. 60, p. 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794 / 1 (Annex D). The BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles considered. Particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000. The data are processed based on Mie scattering theory. This theory, accurate for isotropic particles, allows the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
[0198] The specific surface area of anionic colloidal silica particles generally varies from 100 to 500 m2 / g SiO2, in particular from 130 to 450 m2 / g SiO2, more preferably from 250 to 400 m2 / g SiO2, and even more particularly from 320 to 370 m2 / g SiO2, especially when they are monodisperse.
[0199] When anionic colloidal silica particles are polydisperse, their specific surface area generally varies from 50 to 300 m2 / g SiO2, in particular from 70 to 280 m2 / g SiO2.
[0200] Advantageously, anionic colloidal silica particles are silica particles neutralized by counter-ions of a cationic nature in order to ensure electroneutrality of the particles.
[0201] These counter-ions can in particular be chosen from sodium (Na+) and ammonium NH4+.
[0202] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the cationic counter-ions are sodium ions (Na+).
[0203] The aqueous dispersions of anionic c silica colloidal particles according to the invention have a pH preferably of 8 to 10.
[0204] Among the dispersions of colloidal anionic silica particles, those marketed under the name LUDOX® by the company Grâce may be cited in particular. Specifically, dispersions of anionic silica particles refer to the particles marketed by the company Grâce under the names LUDOX® AM X6021, LUDOX® FM, LUDOX® SM, LUDOX® HS-30, LUDOX® HS-40, LUDOX® LS, LUDOX® TM-40, LUDOX® TM-50, LUDOX® PX-30, LUDOX® PT-40, LUDOX® PW-50, LUDOX® SM-AS, LUDOX® AS-30 AND LUDOX® AS-40.
[0205] When the particles are monodisperse, they are preferably chosen from those marketed under the name LUDOX® AM X6021, LUDOX® FM, LUDOX® SM, LUDOX® HS-30, LUDOX® HS-40, LUDOX® LS, LUDOX® TM-40, LUDOX® TM-50, LUDOX® SM-AS, LUDOX® AS-30, LUDOX® AS-40. In particular, anionic colloidal silica particles refer to the Ludox® SM particles marketed by the company Grâce.
[0206] When the particles are polydisperse, they are preferably chosen from LUDOX® PX-30, LUDOX® PT-40, LUDOX® PW-50 marketed by the company Grâce.
[0207] They are synthesized in aqueous phase by precipitation of sodium silicate SiONa+ with nitric acid HNO3. It is obtained in the form of an alkaline aqueous dispersion of spherical and relatively monodisperse particles, with an average diameter between 10 and 15 nm and a density of approximately 2200 kg / m3. Their pH at 25 °C typically varies between 8 and 10. The concentration of Ludox aqueous dispersions of colloidal silica particles contains 20 to 40% by weight of silica particles relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
[0208] In particular, the aqueous dispersion of anionic colloidal silica particles LUDOX AM X6021® will be used, containing 29-31% by weight of silica particles relative to the total weight of the dispersion. It also contains alumina at a content of approximately 0.2% by weight. The silica particles have an average diameter of approximately 12 nm and a specific surface area of 198 - 258 m2 / g SiO2. The aqueous dispersion is alkaline and has a pH at 25°C of 8.5 to 9.3
[0209] Among the aqueous dispersions of colloidal anionic silica particles usable according to the invention, mention may also be made of the aqueous silica dispersions commercially available from MERCK under the trade names KLEBOSOL®. In particular, the dispersions of anionic silica particles refer to the particles marketed by Grâce under the names KLEBOSOL® 40PA50, KLEBOSOL® 30N50, KLEBOSOL® 30N50PHN, KLEBOSOL® 30H50, KLEBOSOL® 1501-50, KLEBOSOL® 1508-50, KLEBOSOL® 1498-50.
[0210] They are obtained in an alkaline aqueous phase by hydrolysis of tetraethoxysilane (TEOS) containing organometallic precursors SiO-C2H5 according to the so-called Stôber synthesis method [Stôber et al (1968), Green et al (2003)]. The synthesis of this silica is catalyzed by the presence of ammonia in solution. It is obtained in the form of an aqueous ammoniacal dispersion of monodisperse, spherical particles of Their average diameter is around 50 nm and their density is around 2400 kg / m3. Their pH at 25 °C typically varies between 10 and 11.
[0211] In particular, the commercially available reference aqueous dispersion of anionic colloidal silica particles KLEBOSOL 30N50PHN® will be used, containing 30% by weight of silica particles relative to the total weight of the dispersion. The colloidal silica particles have an average size of approximately 50 nm. The aqueous dispersion is alkaline and has a pH of 10.9 at 25°C.
[0212] The quantity of aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles in the composition of the invention preferably varies from 5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0213] In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the oily dispersion of surface-stability polymer particles to the aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles varies from 2 to 6, more preferably from 2 to 5. Waxes
[0214] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one wax in an amount of less than 5.0% by weight, or even less than 2.0% by weight of the total composition. This wax makes it possible to obtain thick and thickening textures.
[0215] By wax, we mean a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid / liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C up to 120°C. In particular, waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
[0216] By "lipophilic compound" is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH / g.
[0217] For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920®" by TA Instruments.
[0218] The measurement protocol is as follows:
[0219] A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first heating from -20°C to 100°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a rate of 10°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second heating from -20°C to 100°C at a rate of 5°C / minute. During the second heating, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
[0220] Waxes may be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated and be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin.
[0221] In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax can be used as wax.
[0222] We can also mention waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched fatty chains, in C8-C32.
[0223] Among these, we can mention in particular hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrastearate) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(trimethyloi-1,1,1 propane tetrabehenate) sold under the name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.
[0224] Wax obtained by hydrogenating esterified olive oil with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57®", or waxes obtained by hydrogenating esterified castor oil with cetyl alcohol, sold under the names "PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64® and 22L73®", by the company SOPHIM, may also be used. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. One can also use an alkyl (hydroxystearoyloxy)stearate in C2o-C4O (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in mixture, in particular a 12-(12'-hydroxystearoyloxy) alkyl stearate in C2o-C4O, of formula (I) [Chem 4]
[0225] in which n is an integer from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (I). Such a sticky wax is notably sold under the names "KESTER WAX K 82 P®" and "KESTER WAX K 80 P®" by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.
[0226] Examples include microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and copolymers waxes and their esters; silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes.
[0227] Examples include linear fatty acid monoesters of the following formula (1): [Chem 5] R3-O-R4(l) in which R3 and R4 are linear and saturated and have, independently of each other, a number of carbon atoms greater than or equal to 20, with R3 representing an acyl radical, and R4 representing an alkyl radical.
[0228] In particular, the fatty acid monoester according to the invention is selected from arachidyl arachidate and behenyl behenate, and more particularly behenyl behenate.
[0229] According to a preferred method, a wax selected from beeswax, Camauba wax, cetyl alcohol, paraffins, behenyl behenate, and mixtures thereof shall be used. Colouring material
[0230] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one coloring material, in particular chosen from powdered coloring materials, water-soluble colorings, and mixtures thereof.
[0231] Powdered colouring materials can be selected from pigments and nacres.
[0232] Pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Examples of mineral pigments include titanium dioxide, possibly surface-treated, zirconium, zinc, or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, and ferric blue. Examples of organic pigments include carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on carmine, cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, and aluminum.
[0233] The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, coloured pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
[0234] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a powdered colouring material, preferably of the pigment type, in particular metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof; and more particularly iron oxides.
[0235] Suitable water-soluble colorants for the invention include, in particular, synthetic or natural water-soluble colorants such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.
[0236] Water-soluble colourings include, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
[0237] Preferably, the colouring material(s) is present in the composition (B) in a total content of 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 3.0% to 20.0% by weight, more particularly 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Non-volatile oils
[0238] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil such as those described above. Additives
[0239] Cosmetic additives that can be used in compositions according to the invention include, in particular, antioxidants; preservatives; perfumes; organic or mineral fillers; thickeners and gelling agents; sequestrants; chelating agents; sunscreens; vitamins such as vitamin C or ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 2-o-alpha-d-glucopyranosyl-l-ascorbic acid (INCI name Ascorbyl Glucoside), vitamin B3 or niacinamide; vitamin B8 also called H: D-Biotin, vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopherol acetate; provitamins such as panthenol also called provitamin B5 or Dexpanthenol; moisturizing agents such as polyols like 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof, Ci-C5 monoalcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0240] These additives may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0% of the total weight of the composition.
[0241] Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition.
[0242] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a product for makeup and / or skin care, in particular for the face, the eye contour, the cheeks, such as a foundation.
[0243] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a product for makeup and / or care such as a lipstick.
[0244] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is in the form of a makeup and / or eyelash care product such as a mascara, an eyeliner. Packaging and applicators
[0245] The compositions according to the invention can each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which includes said composition, said container being closed by a closing element.
[0246] The container may be in any suitable shape. It may, in particular, be in the form of a bottle, a tube, a jar, a case.
[0247] The closure element may be in the form of a removable cap, lid, or seal, in particular of the type having a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It may also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, valve, or flap.
[0248] The container may be associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held together by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described, in particular, in US patent 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained, in particular, by molding. Such combs are described, for example, in French patent 2,796,529. The applicator may be in the form of a brush, as described, for example, in French patent 2,722,380. The applicator may be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator may be free (sponge) or attached to a rod carried by the closure element, as described, for example, in US patent 5,492,426. The applicator can be attached to the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.
[0249] The product may be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.
[0250] The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is achieved by means other than screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fitting, or by clamping. "Snap-fitting" refers in particular to any system involving the passage of a bead or a band of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, and then by the return of said portion to its elastically unconstrained position after passing the bead or band.
[0251] The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene.
[0252] The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube-bottle.
[0253] The container may include means for causing or facilitating the distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to be released in response to pressure. pressure inside the container, which overpressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the container walls.
[0254] The container may be equipped with a wringer located near the opening of the container. Such a wringer allows the applicator and, optionally, the rod to which it may be attached, to be wiped. Such a wringer is described, for example, in French patent FR 2 792 618.
[0255] Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising one" shall be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.
[0256] The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified.
[0257] The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures shown below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities shown are expressed as mass percentages.
[0258] Example 1 of preparation of oily polymer dispersion
[0259] A dispersion of i) polymer particles in isododecane was prepared using: Step 1: 315.2 g of isobornyl acrylate, 12.5 g of methyl acrylate, 12.5 g of ethyl acrylate, 3.4 g of Trigonox 21, 540 g of isododecane, 360 g of ethyl acetate. After 2 hours of reaction, 540 g of isododecane and 360 g of ethyl acetate were added to the reactor base, and the mixture was heated to 90 °C. Step 2: 303 g of methyl acrylate, 776 g of ethyl acrylate, 157 g of acrylic acid, 11 g of Trigonox 21S, 741.6 g of isododecane, and 494.4 g of ethyl acetate. After the reaction, 3 liters of an isododecane / ethyl acetate mixture (60 / 40 wt / w) are added, and the ethyl acetate is completely evaporated, while the isododecane is partially evaporated, to obtain a 44% wt% dry extract.
[0260] A dispersion in isododecane was obtained of particles i) of the copolymer i) methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid (24.5 / 62.8 / 12.7) a) stabilized by a stabilizer ii) isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4) random copolymer. The oily dispersion contains in total (particles i + stabilizer ii) 10% acrylic acid, 20% methyl acrylate, 50% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate.
[0261] Example 2 of preparation of oily polymer dispersion
[0262] A dispersion of polymer particles (i) in isododecane was prepared according to the preparation method of Example 1, using: Step 1: 315.2 g of isobornyl acrylate, 12.5 g of methyl acrylate, 12.5 g of ethyl acrylate, 3.4 g of Trigonox 21, 540 g of isododecane, 360 g of ethyl acetate; then, after reaction, 540 g of isododecane and 360 g of acetate are added. ethyl. Step 2: 145 g of methyl acrylate, 934 g of ethyl acrylate, 157 g of acrylic acid, 12.36 g of Trigonox 21S, 741.6 g of isododecane, and 494.4 g of ethyl acetate. After the reaction, 3 liters of an isododecane / ethyl acetate mixture (60 / 40 wt / w) are added, and the ethyl acetate is completely evaporated, while the isododecane is partially evaporated, to obtain a 44% wt% dry extract.
[0263] A dispersion in isododecane was obtained of particles i) of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer (11.7 / 75.6 / 12.7) stabilized by a stabilizer ii) of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate copolymer (92 / 4 / 4). The oily dispersion contains in total (particles i + stabilizer ii) 10% acrylic acid, 10% methyl acrylate, 60% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate.
[0264] Example 3 of preparation of oily polymer dispersion
[0265] A dispersion of i) polymer particles in isododecane was prepared according to the preparation method of Example 1, using: Step 1: 48 g of isobornyl acrylate, 2 g of methyl acrylate, 2 g of ethyl acrylate, 0.52 g of Trigonox 21, 57.6 g of isododecane, 38.4 g of ethyl acetate; then after reaction, add 540 g of isododecane and 360 g of ethyl acetate. Step 2: 98 g of methyl acrylate, 73 g of ethyl acrylate, 25 g of maleic anhydride, 1.96 g of Trigonox 21S, 50.4 g of isododecane, and 33.60 g of ethyl acetate. After the reaction, 1 liter of an isododecane / ethyl acetate mixture (60 / 40 wt / w) is added, and the ethyl acetate is completely evaporated, while the isododecane is partially evaporated, to obtain a dry extract of 46.2% by weight.
[0266] A dispersion in isododecane was obtained of particles i) of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymer (50 / 37.2 / 12.8) stabilized by a stabilizer ii) of isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate copolymer (92 / 4 / 4). The oily dispersion contains in total (particles i + stabilizer ii) 10% maleic anhydride, 30% methyl acrylate, 40% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate. Examples 1 and 2
[0267] [Tables 1] Ingredients (INCI name) Example 1 (invention) Example 2 (not part of invention) 10 active ingredient - Spherical amorphous silica particles (average size 5 µm) (SUNSPHERES H51® from AGC Si-TECH)) - 10 Oily dispersion of polymer particles from Example 2 q.s. 100 q.s. 100 Preparation protocol
[0268] Compositions 1 and 2 were made by simple mixing at room temperature (25°C).
[0269] Composition 1 according to the invention is stable and homogeneous after 48 hours at room temperature (25°C), unlike composition 2 outside the invention, which is unstable: the silica particles settle
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising, preferably in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least: - an oily dispersion comprising: i) one or more particle(s) comprising: a) one or more ethylenic copolymer(s) of a1) (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl, and a2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl; in particular a2) is a (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylic acid, more particularly the copolymers of (CrC4)alkyl (meth)acrylate and (meth)acrylic acid; and ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) selected from: b) (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate monomer polymers such as isobornyl (meth)acrylates;and c) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate copolymers of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl such as isobornyl (meth)acrylates and (C2) (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl such as (CrC4)alkyl (meth)acrylates; and iii) one or more hydrocarbon oil(s); - an aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles having a number-average diameter between 0.1 and 100 nm.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the oily dispersion is such that the particle(s) i) is / are made up of an ethylenic polymeric core derived from copolymers a) as defined in the preceding claim, and ii) of one or more polymeric surface stabilizing agent(s) derived from polymer b) or copolymers c) as defined in the preceding claim.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily dispersion is such that the monomer(s) of (CrC4)alkyl (CrC4)acrylate are selected from those of formula (I): H2C=C(R)-C(O|-O-R' (IJ), where R represents a hydrogen atom or (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R' represents a (CrC4)alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl, n- propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, i-butyl, t-butyl, preferably methyl, ethyl or i-butyl; particularly methyl, ethyl or isobutyl, preferably (I) is selected from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, isobutyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; and more preferably selected from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate and isobutyl (meth)acrylate; more preferably (I) represents methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, isobutyl acrylate and isobutyl methacrylate.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the oily dispersion is such that the monomer(s) a2) ethylenic comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups such as benzyl is(s) selected from (1), (2), (3), and (4): (1) Ri(R2)C=C(R3)-Acid with Rb R2 and R3 representing a hydrogen atom or a CO2H, H2PO4, or SO3H group, and Acid representing a carboxy, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid group, preferably carboxy, preferably (1) represents (5) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OH with R representing a hydrogen atom, or an (Ci-C4) alkyl group such as methyl; (2) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-N(R')-Alk-Acid with R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a (CrC4)alkyl group; Alk represents a (Ci-C6)alkylene group possibly substituted by at least one group chosen from Acid as defined above and hydroxy;and Acid is as defined above, preferably carboxy or sulfonic acid; (3) Ar-(Ra)C=C(Rb)-Rc with Ra, Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (CrC4)alkyl group, and Ar represents an aryl group, preferably benzyl, optionally substituted by at least one acid group CO2H, H2PO4, or SO3H, preferably substituted by a CO2H, or SO3H group, (4) Maleic anhydride of formula (4a) and (4b):;
5.
6. H3) (4b) in which Ra, Rb and Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, preferably Ra, Rb, and Rc represent a hydrogen atom; preferably the ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (4b) and more preferably is maleic anhydride; more particularly a2) is chosen from (1) and (4), preferably (5).Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the oily dispersion is such that the ethylenic monomer(s) a2) comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulfonic acid and / or aryl groups is / are selected from crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, acrylami-doglycolic acid, acrylic acid and their salts, more preferably a2) represents acrylic acid and its salts or maleic anhydride. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily dispersion is such that the stabilizing agent(s) ii) is / are made up of ethylenic polymers selected from: b) monomer polymers of the formula H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” (III) with R representing a hydrogen atom or (Ci-C4)alkyl group such as methyl, and R” representing a (C5-CiO)cycloalkyl group such as norbomyl, or preferably isobornyl; and c) the copolymers of cj H2C=C(R)-C(O)-OR” (III) in which R and R” have the same meanings indicated previously in b) and of c2) H2C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (I) in which R has the same meaning as in formula (III) and R' represents a group (Ci-C4)alkyl; more particularly, the stabilizing agent ii) is selected from: isobornyl acrylate homopolymers, isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate statistical copolymers, isobornyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate statistical copolymers, and isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate statistical copolymers.
7. Composition according to claims 1 to 5, wherein the oily dispersion is such that the stabilizing agent(s) ii) is / are selected from the monomer polymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl; and c) the statistical copolymers of (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl and (Ci-C4)(alkyl)acrylate of (Ci-C4)alkyl with a weight ratio cl / c2 greater than 4, advantageously, said weight ratio from 4.5 to 19, preferably, said weight ratio cl / c2 from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio from 5.5 to 12.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily dispersion is such that the polymer of particles i) comprises 80 to 93% by weight of ingredient ai), in particular Ci-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and 7 to 20% by weight of ingredient a2) relative to the total weight of polymer i); more preferably, the polymer of particles i) comprises preferably 85 to 93% by weight, more particularly 87% to 92% by weight, even more preferably 85% to 90% by weight of ingredient aj, in particular CrC4 alkyl (meth)acrylate, and 10 to 20% by weight of ingredient a2) relative to the total weight of polymer i).
9. Composition according to claims 1 to 5, wherein the oil dispersion is such that the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are selected from c) copolymers of Ci) (Ci-C6)(alkyl)acrylate of (C3-Ci2)cycloalkyl and c2) (CrC4)(alkyl)acrylate of (CrC4)alkyl with 85 to 94 wt% of ingredient Ci) in particular of isobornyl (meth)acrylate and 5 to 20 wt% of ingredient c2) relative to the total weight of the stabilizing agent; more preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) comprise 85 to 98% by weight, more particularly 87% to 94% by weight, of ingredient Ci) in particular isobornyl (meth)acrylate and 10 to 20% by weight of ingredient c2) relative to the total weight of the stabilizing agent.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer of particles i) is present in the dispersion in a content ranging from 21% to 58.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrocarbon oil(s) is / are formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms; preferably selected from: - linear or branched C8-C30 alkanes, in particular CiO-C2O, more particularly CiO-Ci6, volatile or non-volatile; preferably volatile - cyclic, non-aromatic, C5-Ci2 alkanes, volatile or non-volatile; preferably volatile, and - mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably volatile, more particularly: - petroleum-derived isoalkanes or isoparaffins; - linear alkanes; even more preferably, the liquid hydrocarbon oil iii) is isododecane.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrocarbon oil(s) iii) is / are in the oil dispersion in an amount of between 15% by weight and 80% by weight, more preferably between 20% and 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said oil dispersion, more particularly the weight ratio of the sum of the ingredients [i) + ii)] / iii) is less than or equal to 1, more particularly [i) + ii]] / iii) the mass ratio is between 0.5 and 1.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer particles of the dispersion have an average size, in particular in number, ranging from 50 to 500 nm, in particular ranging from 75 to 400 nm, and better ranging from 100 to 250 nm.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the particle dispersion i) is selected from: - a dispersion in isododecane of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer particles (24.5 / 62.8 / 12.7) stabilized by a statistical copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4); the oily dispersion containing in total (stabilizer ii) + particles i)) 10% acrylic acid, 20% methyl acrylate, 50% acrylate ethyl and 20% isobornyl acrylate; -a dispersion in isododecane of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer particles (11.7 / 75.6 / 12.7) stabilized by a statistical copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4); the oily dispersion containing in total (stabilizer ii + particles i)) 10% acrylic acid, 10% methyl acrylate, 60% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate; - a dispersion in isododecane of methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate / maleic anhydride copolymer particles (50 / 37.2 / 12.8) stabilized by a statistical copolymer stabilizer isobornyl acrylate / methyl acrylate / ethyl acrylate (92 / 4 / 4); the oily dispersion containing in total (stabilizer ii) + particles i) 10% maleic anhydride, 30% methyl acrylate, 40% ethyl acrylate and 20% isobornyl acrylate.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of oily dispersion of particles i) varies from 20% to 40% by weight, more preferably from 25% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the quantity of water is greater than or equal to 2% by weight and less than 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly the quantity of water in the composition is between 5% and 49% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 10% and 47% by weight, between 15% and 48% by weight, preferably between 18% and 45%, even more preferably between 20% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the colloidal silica particles are anionic and amorphous.
18. Composition according to claim 13, wherein the anionic silica colloidal particles are monodisperse.
19. Composition according to claim 13 or 14, wherein the colloidal silica particles have an average diameter of between 3 and 100 nm, preferably between 3 and 50 nm, more preferably between 5 and 10 nm.
20. Composition according to any one of claims 13 to 15, wherein the specific surface area of the anionic silica colloidal particles generally varies from 50 to 500 m2 / g SiO2.
21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amount of aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles varies from 5% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the oily dispersion of polymer particles (i) to the aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica particles varies from 2 to 6, more preferably from 2 to 5.
23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more wax(s) in an amount less than 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one colouring material, in particular selected from powdered colouring materials, water-soluble colourings, and mixtures thereof.
25. Composition according to claim 18, wherein the colouring material(s) are present in a total content of 2.0 to 25.0% by weight, preferably 3.0 to 20.0% by weight, more particularly 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more non-volatile oils, preferably ionic in a total concentration of less than 10.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
27. A method for making up and / or caring for keratinous materials consisting of applying to the surface of said materials at least one composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims