WASHING COMPOSITION FOR KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLUCAMIDE, ONE (POLY)GLYCEROL ESTER AND ONE ALKYL (POLY)GLYCOSIDE
A surfactant-based hair washing composition with a specific ratio of ingredients addresses environmental and aesthetic issues, providing effective cleansing and conditioning without silicones, ensuring hair is clean, soft, and aesthetically pleasing.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Patents
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2022-06-22
- Publication Date
- 2026-06-12
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair washing compositions based on surfactants and silicones have suboptimal environmental profiles, insufficient foam generation, rapid regreasing, and undesirable effects on hair such as weighing it down, loss of volume, and lack of shine, while also being aesthetically unappealing and lacking in conditioning properties.
A composition comprising anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, glucamide compounds, fatty acid monoesters, and alkyl(poly)glycosides, with a specific weight ratio, that provides improved cleansing, foam quality, and conditioning properties without silicones, ensuring biodegradability and aesthetic appeal.
The composition achieves excellent washing power, leaves hair clean, light, soft, and manageable, with good foam initiation and quality, and maintains stability over time, while enhancing hair feel and aesthetics.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: WASHING COMPOSITION FOR KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLUCAMIDE, ONE (POLY)GLYCEROL ESTER AND ONE ALKYL(POLY)GLYCOSIDE
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, at least one glucamide compound, at least one fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester and at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, and with the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s), to the total content of particular fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s).
[0002] The invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention.
[0003] For cleaning and / or washing keratin fibers such as hair, the use of detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based primarily on surfactants is common. These compositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of various types of dirt initially present on the hair or skin.
[0004] Also, it is known to offer shampoos, especially for hair sensitized or weakened to varying degrees following the action of atmospheric agents or repeated mechanical or chemical treatments, containing conditioning agents such as silicones, to give keratin fibers conditioning properties, for example a better feel, more suppleness or even ease of detangling.
[0005] However, these washing compositions based on surfactants and silicones have several disadvantages: the environmental profile of the composition (biodegradability, water footprint) is not always optimal, due to the presence of silicone; the foam start-up, the quality and more particularly the quantity of foam generated are considered insufficient; the rapid regreasing of keratin fibers accompanied by weighting.
[0006] In addition, repeated applications of these compositions often result in an unpleasant feel to the hair, a loss of volume and bounce in the hair, and sometimes a lack of shine.
[0007] From these observations arose the interest in developing a natural and biodegradable cosmetic composition intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, advantageously without silicone (“silicone-free” in English), presenting improved usage qualities and good cosmetic properties, and capable of washing keratin fibers without weighing them down so as to provide good conditioning properties to the keratin fibers.
[0008] At the same time, more and more users of cosmetic products are looking for more aesthetic, or even more original, hair hygiene products.
[0009] There is therefore a real need to develop aesthetically pleasing compositions that are stable over time, based on natural and / or biodegradable ingredients, preferably without silicone, and that provide excellent cleansing and usage properties, particularly in terms of foam initiation, quality and quantity of foam generated, and viscosity. It is also important that these compositions impart good conditioning properties to keratin fibers, especially in terms of feel, smoothness, suppleness, and detangling.
[0010] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, which relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising: i. at least one anionic surfactant, ii. at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, iii. at least one glucamide compound, iv. at least one monoester of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol, and v. at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, and
[0011] in which the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol is less than or equal to 1.
[0012] It has been found that the composition according to the invention has excellent washing power on keratin fibers.
[0013] In particular, hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly clean, and exhibits good cosmetic properties.
[0014] It has also been found that hair treated in this way is particularly light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more manageable.
[0015] Furthermore, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention exhibits good performance characteristics, in particular good foam initiation, and good foam quality and quantity. It has been noted in particular that the composition according to the invention, and more specifically the presence of at least one glucamide compound, at least one alkylpolyglucoside, and at least one (poly)glycerol ester, makes it possible to generate a large quantity of foam.
[0016] The composition according to the invention has a viscosity suitable for use as a shampoo.
[0017] Furthermore, it has also been observed that the composition according to the invention is particularly stable over time, at atmospheric pressure and at 25°C.
[0018] More particularly, when the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one opacifying agent, the composition remains homogeneous and no phase shift phenomenon of the composition has been observed.
[0019] According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention further comprises one or more particles (e.g. opacifiers, pigments, glitter, etc.), in the form of a homogeneous and stable suspension.
[0020] The visually stable and homogeneous suspension of these particles significantly improves the aesthetics and originality of the composition according to the invention.
[0021] By "stable and homogeneous suspension", in the sense of the invention, it is understood that said particles are dispersed homogeneously in the composition, that is to say, distributed homogeneously within the composition, and that this homogeneous dispersion persists over time, that is to say, that the particles do not float, do not sink, do not settle and / or do not form agglomerates in the composition over time, in particular after at least one week of storage.
[0022] The invention also relates to a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition according to the invention.
[0023] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0024] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:
[0025] - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and may to be substituted for it;
[0026] - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the terminals are included;
[0027] - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" In the context of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly upper, respectively strictly lower, and therefore that the bounds are not included.
[0028] - The term "keratin fibers" in this application means more particularly human keratin fibers, and more preferentially hair.
[0029] - For the purposes of this application, "fatty acid" means an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0030] - For the purposes of this application, "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
[0031] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of silicone.
[0032] By the expression "silicone-free", it is understood that the composition according to the invention does not include silicone, or that the silicone(s) present in the composition according to the invention are included in a total content less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention, better free of silicone (0% by weight).
[0033] By "silicone" is meant any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained for example by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.
[0034] The international standard ISO 16128-2 describes the methods for calculating the Natural, Naturally Originated, Organic and Biologically Originated Indices that apply to the categories of ingredients and cosmetic products defined in ISO 16128-1. ISO 16128-2 also provides a framework for determining the Natural, Naturally Originated, Organic and Biologically Originated Content of cosmetic products based on the characterization of the ingredients.
[0035] Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a percentage of natural origin within the meaning of the international standard ISO 16128-2, greater than or equal to 90%; more preferably greater than or equal to 92%; more preferably still greater than or equal to 94%. Anionic surfactants
[0036] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant.
[0037] Anionic surfactant is understood to be a surfactant, preferably non-siliconized, comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.
[0038] In the present description, an entity is described as "anionic" when it possesses at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
[0039] Anionic surfactants can be chosen from sulfate, sulfonate and carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. A mixture of these surfactants can obviously be used.
[0040] It is understood in this description that: - Anionic carboxylate surfactants include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), and may optionally include in addition one or more sulfate and / or sulfonate functions; - Anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise a carboxylate function; and - Anionic sulfate surfactants include at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.
[0041] The anionic carboxylate surfactants that can be used therefore include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO).
[0042] Anionic carboxylate surfactants may be selected from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as salts of these compounds; and mixtures thereof; the alkyl and / or acyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, or even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0043] C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates, and their salts, can also be used.
[0044] Preferably, the anionic carboxylate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures: - acylglutamates, especially in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate; - acylsarcosinates, particularly in C6-C24, or even in Ci2-C2o, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate; - acyllactylates, particularly in C12-C28, or even in C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate; - acylglycinates in C6-C24, particularly in C12-C20; - alkyl(C6-C24)ethercarboxylates, and in particular alkyl(C12-C20)ethercarboxylates; - polyoxyalkylened alkyl(C6-C24) (amido) ether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.
[0045] Among the carboxylic surfactants mentioned above, special mention can be made of sarcosinate-type surfactants, in particular those chosen from among the alkyl(C6-C3o)sarcosinates of the following formula (I): RC(O)-N(CH3)-CH2-C(O)-OX (I) with - X designating a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, or an ion from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and - R designates a linear or branched alkyl group, of 5 to 29 carbon atoms. R preferably designates a linear or branched alkyl group, of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
[0046] Among the alkyl(C6-C3o)sarcosinates of formula (I) usable in the present composition, we may mention palmitoylsarcosinates, stearoylsarcosinates, myristoylsarcosinates, lauroylsarcosinates, and cocoylsarcosinates, in acid form or in sal form.
[0047] The anionic surfactant(s) of the sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from sodium lauroylsarcosinate, stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] Among the carboxylic surfactants above, we can also mention polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO.
[0049] The polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II): Rl-(OC2H4)n-OCH2COOA (II) in which: - RI represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl(C8-Cç))phenyl radical, an R2CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R2 designating a linear or branched C9-C2i alkyl or alkenyl radical; Preferably RI is an alkyl radical in the C8-C20 range, preferably in the C8-Ci8 range, and aryl preferably designates phenyl, - n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10, - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
[0050] Mixtures of compounds of formula (II) can also be used, in particular mixtures of compounds having different RI groups.
[0051] Particularly preferred polyoxyalkylened alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (II) in which: - RI designates an alkyl radical in the form Ci2-Ci4, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl, - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and - n varies from 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 10.
[0052] More preferably still, compounds of formula (II) are used in which RI designates an alkyl radical in C[2, A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom and n varies from 2 to 10.
[0053] The anionic sulfonate surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3).
[0054] Anionic sulfonate surfactants can be selected from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates, alkylsulfolaurates, and salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0055] Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures: - C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, especially Ci2-C2o, particularly laurylsulfosuccinates. - C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, particularly in Ci2-C20; - N-acyltaurates in C6-C24, particularly in Ci2-C20 - (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates, particularly in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.
[0056] Preferably, the sulfonate-type anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from C6-C24 N-acyltaurates, particularly Ci2-C20, and in particular N-acyl N-methyltaurates, C6-C24 acylisethionates, particularly Ci2-Ci8, as well as their salts and mixtures.
[0057] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) of the sulfonate type are chosen from among the C6-C24 acylisethionates, in particular in Ci2-Ci8, as well as their salts and mixtures.
[0058] The anionic sulfate surfactants that may be used have at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0059] Anionic sulfate surfactants can be selected from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamido ethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, even better from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds can be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0060] Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixtures: - alkyl sulfates, particularly in the C10-C24 and even C12-C22 forms, - alkyl ethersulfates, especially in Ci0-C24, or even in Ci2-C22, preferably comprising 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.
[0061] When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.
[0062] Examples of amino alcohol salts include mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
[0063] Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals are preferably used, and in particular salts of sodium or magnesium.
[0064] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the sulfate anionic surfactants.
[0065] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkylsulfates, alkylethersulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof; the alkyl groups of these compounds preferably having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 28, even better from 10 to 24, or even from 12 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably designating a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be (poly)oxyalkylated, in particular (poly)oxyethylated and then preferably having from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0066] More preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from: - alkyl sulfates in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C24, or even in C2-C22 - alkyl ether sulfates in C6-C24, better in C10-C24, or even in C12-C22, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, - the salts of these compounds and their mixtures; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohols.
[0067] Even more preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl sulfates in C6-C30, better in C8-C24, even better in C10-C24, or even in C2-C22.
[0068] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably still from 2 to 15% by weight, better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0069] Preferably, the total content of anionic sulfate surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better from 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0070] Preferably, the total content of C6-C30 alkyl sulfates present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferably 2 to 15% by weight, better 5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amphoteric surfactants
[0071] The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
[0072] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-siliconized, used in the composition according to the present invention, may be in particular secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0073] In particular, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof may be cited.
[0074] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective structures (III) and (IV): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO, M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Cr C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0075] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0076] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0077] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra''-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra” represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3.
[0078] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0079] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0080] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and their mixtures are advantageously used.
[0081] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0082] Even better, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and particularly cocamidopropylbetaine.
[0083] Preferably, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0084] Preferably, the total content of alkyl(C8-C20)betaine(s) and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaine(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0085] Preferably, the total content of alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaine(s), such as cocamidopropylbetaine, present in the composition ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0086] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition is greater than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0087] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 4 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 6 to 20% by weight, better from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 7.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0088] Preferably, the total content of anionic sulfate surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 4 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably still from 6 to 20% by weight, better from 7 to 15% by weight, better still from 7.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0089] Preferably, the total content of C6-C30 alkyl sulfates and alkyl(C8-C20)betaine(s) and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaine(s) present in the composition ranges from 4 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight, and even more preferably 6 to 20% by weight, better 7 to 15% by weight, better still 7.5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0090] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) to the total content of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) (ii) is less than or equal to 4.5; preferably between 1 and 4.5; more preferably between 1.5 and 4.3; better between 2 and 4; even better between 2.1 and 3.9.
[0091] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of anionic sulfate surfactant(s) to the total content of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) is less than or equal to 4.5; preferably between 1 and 4.5; more preferably between 1.5 and 4.3; better between 2 and 4; even better between 2.1 and 3.9.
[0092] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of C6-C30 alkylsulfates to the total content of alkyl(C8-C20)betaine(s) and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaine(s) is less than or equal to 4.5; preferably between 1 and 4.5; more preferably between 1.5 and 4.3; better between 2 and 4; even better between 2.1 and 3.9. Glucamide compounds
[0093] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one glucamide compound.
[0094] The glucamide compounds usable according to the invention are described in particular in patent applications WO 92 06154, US 5194639 and DE 44 43 645.
[0095] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from among the acyl-glucamides, more preferably those having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (including the carbon atom of the carbonyl group -C(O)-), preferably from 6 to 22, better from 6 to 20, even better from 6 and 14.
[0096] More preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those with the following general formula (A): in which: - The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, where N is the nitrogen atom of the glucamine. - Ri represents an alkyl radical in CrC2, preferably a methyl, - R2 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, in C3-C29; preferably in C5-C2i, more preferably in C5-C19, better in C5-C13; and possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.
[0097] More preferably: - The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, where N is the nitrogen atom of the glucamine. - Ri represents a methyl group, and - R2 represents a linear alkyl radical in C3-C29; preferably in C5-C2i, more preferably in C5-C19, better in C5-Ci3, better still in C7-C9; and possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.
[0098] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least two glucamide compounds; more preferably the composition according to the invention comprises two glucamide compounds.
[0099] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "glucamide" and "glucamine" encompass all of their respective isomers.
[0100] Among the glucamide compounds that can be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned in particular, alone or in mixtures: - myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide, sunfloweroyl (sunfloweroyl) methyl glucamide, - methylglucamide oleoyl oleate, methylglucamide stearoyl stearate, methylglucamide tocopheryl succinate.
[0101] Particular preference is given to glucamide compounds selected from, alone or in mixture, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide and sunfloweroyl (sunfloweroyl) methyl glucamide.
[0102] Among the mixtures of glucamide compounds, lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide and capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide are particularly preferred.
[0103] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide.
[0104] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0105]
[0106]
[0107]
[0108]
[0109]
[0110] [YES]
[0112]
[0113] Preferably, the total content of acyl-glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of acyl-glucamide compound(s) whose hydrocarbon chain comprises between 4 and 30 carbon atoms, present in the composition, ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) of formula (A) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the total content of capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoesters The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one monoester of fatty acid and (poly)glycerol. Preferably, the fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s) comprise on average 1 to 30 moles of glycerol; more preferably 1 to 10 moles of glycerol, better 1 to 5 moles of glycerol. For the purposes of this invention, "average" means an average number. More preferably, the fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s) are chosen from C6-C40 fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoesters; more preferably still from C8-C30 fatty acid and (poly)glycerol. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s) are chosen from the compounds of the following formula (X): O 0 ' ï r' XO"t OH O-^ HO (X) in which: - R represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C5-C39, preferably in C7-C29, better in Cn-C2i; - m, p and r represent an integer between 0 and 30, and are such that the sum of the integers m, p and r is between 1 and 30, better between 1 and 10, and even better between 1 and 5.
[0114] Preferably according to this embodiment, p = r = 0, and m is an integer between 1 and 30, more preferably m is an integer between 1 and 10, or even between 1 and 5.
[0115] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one fatty acid and glycerol monoester, better at least one C6-C40 fatty acid monoester (even better C8-C30) and glycerol monoester. In other words, the fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s) are selected from compounds of formula (X) for which p = r = 0 and m = 1.
[0116] According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s) are selected from the compounds of the following formula (XI): | (XI) in which: - R represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, in C5-C59, preferably in C7-C29, better in Cn-C2i, and even better in C14-C19.
[0117] Preferably in this embodiment, the hydrocarbon chain R is unsaturated.
[0118] Most preferably, the fatty acid monoester(s) and of (Poly)glycerols are selected from fatty acid and glycerol monoesters (i.e., 1 mole of glycerol); preferably from C6-C40 fatty acid monoesters (even better C8-C30) and glycerol monoesters; and particularly from oleic acid and glycerol monoester, sapienic acid and glycerol monoester, palmitoleic acid and glycerol monoester, linoleic acid and glycerol monoester, lauric acid and glycerol monoester, myristic acid and glycerol monoester, stearic acid and glycerol monoester, palmitic acid and glycerol monoester, arachidic acid and glycerol monoester, and mixtures thereof.
[0119] Better still, the fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s) are selected from oleic acid and (poly)glycerol monoesters (such as glyceryl oleate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate or polyglyceryl-5 oleate), and mixtures thereof.
[0120] Preferably, the total content of fatty acid monoester(s), preferably C6-C40 (even better C8-C30), and (poly)glycerol present(s) in the composition according to the invention, is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, more preferably still between 0.1 and 5%, even better between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] Preferably, the total content of fatty acid monoester(s), preferably C6-C40 (even better C8-C30), and glycerol present in the composition according to the invention, is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, more preferably still between 0.1 and 5%, even better between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0122] Preferably, the total glyceryl oleate content in the composition according to the invention is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.05 and 8% by weight, more preferably still between 0.1 and 5%, even better between 0.1 and 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Alkyl(poly)glycosides
[0123] The composition according to the invention comprises at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside.
[0124] The alkyl(poly)glycosides may in particular be selected from those of the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v in which: - Ri represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 24 carbon atoms; - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, - G represents a sugar motif containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4, - v denotes a value from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.
[0125] Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycosides are compounds of the formula described above in which: - Ri designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 8 to 24 carbon atoms, - R2 represents an alkylene radical with 2 to 4 carbon atoms, -1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0, - G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose; - the degree of polymerization, i.e. the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.
[0126] The glycosidic bonds between the sugar motifs are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4.
[0127] Advantageously, alkyl(poly)glycosides are alkyl(poly)glucosides, such as (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides. (C8-C24)1,4-alkyl(poly)glucosides are particularly preferred, especially coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, and caprylyl / capryl glucosides.
[0128] Among the commercial products, we can mention the products sold by the company COGNIS under the names PLANTAREN® (600 CS / U, 1200 and 2000) or PLANTACARE® (818, 1200 and 2000); the products sold by the company SEPPIC under the names ORAMIX CG 110 and ORAMIX® NS 10; the products sold by the company BASF under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 or the products sold by the company CHEM Y under the name AGIO LK.
[0129] More preferably, alkyl(poly)glycosides are chosen from (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glycosides; more preferably still from (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycosides; even better from (C8-Ci8)alkyl(poly)glycosides such as coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.
[0130] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one alkyl(poly)glucoside selected from (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glucosides; more preferably from (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glucosides; even better from (C8-Ci8)alkyl(poly)glucosides such as coco-glucosides, decylglucosides, caprylyl / capryl-glucosides, lauryl glucosides, and mixtures thereof.
[0131] Preferably, the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0132] Preferably, the total content of (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0133] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0134] Preferably, the total content of (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0135] Preferably, the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0136] According to the invention, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol (iv) is less than or equal to 1.
[0137] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v) to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or even between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.
[0138] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of C6-C40 fatty acid monoester(s) (better C8-C30) and (poly)glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or even between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.
[0139] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v), to the total content of C6-C4o fatty acid monoester(s) and glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or even between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7.
[0140] Preferably, the weight ratio of the total content of (C6-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside(s) (v), to the total content of C6-C4o fatty acid monoester(s) (better C8-C30) and glycerol (iv) is less than 1, more preferably less than or equal to 0.9, better between 0.01 and 0.9, even better less than or equal to 0.8, or even between 0.05 and 0.8, particularly preferred less than or equal to 0.7, and most particularly preferred between 0.1 and 0.7. Cationic polymers
[0141] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one cationic polymer.
[0142] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" means any non-siliconized polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0143] Cationic polymers are not siliconed (do not include a Si-O motif).
[0144] Cationic polymers can be associative or non-associative.
[0145] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from among non-associative cationic polymers.
[0146] The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.
[0147] Among cationic polymers, the following may be mentioned in particular:
[0148] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: % Û"C 0-Ç O Q At 19' 7 A NR^N+^R^ formulas in which: - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0149] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
[0150] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention: - copolymers of acrylamide and quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573; - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by ISP. - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; - vinylpyrrolidone / quatemized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, - Polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil may be used in particular. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA.A cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the CIBA company.
[0151] (2) Cationic polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and gums of Cationic galactomannans. Among the cationic polysaccharides, we can mention in particular cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0152] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597, and examples include polymers marketed under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by AMERCHOL. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, such as polyquatemium-10.
[0153] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4131576, and examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyl-diallylammonium, such as, for example, polyquaternium-4. The marketed products meeting this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0154] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic associative celluloses can also be used, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0155] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyls, linear or branched alkylaryls, preferably linear or branched alkyls, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0156] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may be cited:
[0157] in which:
[0158] - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide;
[0159] - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q' represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide;
[0160] it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, in C8 to C30;
[0161] - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.
[0162] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, from C8 to C30; better still from C10 to C24, or even from C10 to C14; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched alkyl group from C1 to C4, especially a methyl group.
[0163] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, from C8 to C30; better still from C10 to C24, or even from C10 to Cu; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl group from C1 to C4, especially a methyl group.
[0164] Even better, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'.
[0165] Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'.
[0166] Aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
[0167] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names: - Polyquaternium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (alkyl in Ci2), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (alkyl in Ci8) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.
[0168] Also noteworthy are hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R representing trimethylammonium chloride Cf,(CH3)3N+- and R' representing dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1,(CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.
[0169] More particularly, polymers of formula (Ib) are, for example, those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs, preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs. SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X with a viscosity between 1000 and 2000 cPs can also be used.
[0170] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307, and examples include guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For instance, guar gums modified with a salt (e.g., a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed, among others, under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, JAGUAR Cl62, or JAGUAR EXCEL by the company RHODIA. Such compounds have the INCI names guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0171] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0172] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
[0173] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are formed with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation using bifunctional agents. An example is adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymers, in which the alkyl radical has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.
[0174] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and dicarboxylic acids saturated aliphatics having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.
[0175] (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as the main constituent of the chain motifs corresponding to formulas (VI) or (VII): .(CH2X / (Chyk h2c ch2 hx ch2 (VI) y. (VII) N RX AT formulas (VI) and (VII), in which: - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - Rn designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - Rio and Rn, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, an amidoalkyl group in C1 to C4; or Rio and Rn may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.
[0176] One can cite more particularly the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO (and their homologues of low average molar masses by weight) and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".
[0177] (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula: I ■ I'■ --N+-A, —N+—B -- ME! ! > ' formula (VIII), in which: - Rn, Ru, Ris and Ri6, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals (preferably in Ci-C6), or Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or Rn, Ru, R[5 and R[6 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-Rp-D or -CO-NH-Rp-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, Rn and Ri5 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; Furthermore, if Ai designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also designate a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- group in which D designates: a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; or d) a ureylene group with the formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
[0178] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.
[0179] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs conforming to the formula: formula (IX) in which Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to 20 and, X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0180] A particularly preferred compound of formula (IX) is that for which Rh R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, named Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
[0181] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (X): formula (X), in which: - Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R[9, R2o and R2i do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X denotes a union such as a halide, and - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O- ch2-ch2-.
[0182] Examples include the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.
[0183] (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF
[0184] (11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0185] (12) polymers comprising in their structure: (a) one or more patterns meeting the following formula (A): —Ch:—CH~ I O (b) possibly one or more patterns corresponding to the following formula (B): —GH.:—CH — - | (B) ÎUW—C—H II O
[0186] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.
[0187] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (A) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (B).
[0188] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.
[0189] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, may preferably vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, more preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0190] The cationic charge density of these polymers may vary preferably from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, more preferably from 2.5 to 15 and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.
[0191] Polymers comprising motifs of formula (A) and possibly motifs of formula (B) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
[0192] (13) and mixtures thereof.
[0193] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferably non-associative cationic polysaccharides.
[0194] More preferably, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.
[0195] More preferably still, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from among the cationic galactomannan gums.
[0196] In a particularly preferred manner, the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from among cationic guar gums.
[0197] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic polymer(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0198] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0199] Preferably, when present, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The particles
[0200] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises one or more particles.
[0201] By "particles" we mean small, fragmented objects formed of aggregated solid particles of varying shapes and sizes. They may be regular or irregular in shape. In particular, they may be spherical (such as granules, pellets, balls), square, rectangular, or elongated like sticks. Spherical particles are particularly preferred. The particle size can advantageously be, in its largest dimension, between 1 µm and 5 mm, preferably between 1 µm and 2 mm, more preferably between 100 nm and 100 µm, and even better between 1 µm and 50 µm. These particle sizes can be measured with a laser particle size analyzer (for example, using the Brookhaven BI90).
[0202] Preferably, the particles according to the invention are chosen from opacifiers such as mica and glycol distearate, pigments such as titanium dioxide, fragments of one or more plants, and mixtures thereof.
[0203] For the purposes of this invention, "fragment" means a piece or part of a plant, obtained for example by uprooting or crushing the plant, or by cutting up said plant.
[0204] By "fragments of one or more plants", for the purposes of the present invention, the composition comprises either several fragments of one and the same species of plant, or the composition comprises several fragments of several different species of plants.
[0205] More particularly, the particles are visually suspended in a stable and homogeneous manner in the medium, preferably cosmetic, of the composition according to the invention.
[0206] When the composition according to the invention comprises one or more particles, the suspension properties of the composition according to the invention allow the particles to be kept in stable and homogeneous suspension.
[0207] The viscosity of the composition according to the invention can be evaluated by determining, at a temperature of 25°C, the flow time of a quantity of product (for example 90g of product flowed) through a calibrated orifice using a Ford cup viscometer, equipped with a Ford cup with an orifice diameter of 8 mm (cF8).
[0208] Preferably, the flow time of the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 30 seconds, in particular greater than or equal to 50 seconds; in particular between 30 and 300 seconds, or even between 50 and 250 seconds, even better between 50 and 120 seconds.
[0209] Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one inorganic salt, and more preferably sodium chloride.
[0210] For the purposes of this application, the inorganic salt(s) are different from anionic surfactants (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii), particles, and more particularly from all the ingredients described above.
[0211] Preferably, the total content of inorganic salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 3% by weight. weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0212] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises water, i.e. the medium of the composition is aqueous or hydroalcoholic.
[0213] More preferably, the total water content of the composition according to the invention is between 20 and 98% by weight, more preferably between 50% and 96% by weight, more preferably still between 60 and 95% by weight, even better between 70 and 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0214] The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0215] For the purposes of the invention, it is understood that the organic solvents are liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0216] Examples of organic solvents include water-soluble solvents such as C1-C7 alcohols, particularly C1-C7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C3-C7 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can be used alone or in mixtures with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent(s) may be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
[0217] Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one C2-C7 polyol; more preferably one C2-C6 polyol; and more preferably still propylene glycol.
[0218] Preferably, when the organic solvent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of organic solvent(s) in C2-C7 is between 0.01 and 10% by weight, more preferably between 0.05 and 5% by weight, more preferably still between 0.1 and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0219] Preferably, when the composition according to the invention includes water, the pH of the composition is between 3.0 and 9.0, more preferably between 3.5 and 8.0, more preferably still between 4.0 and 7.0, even better between 4.5 and 6.5.
[0220] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents (such as monoethanolamine) and / or acidifying agents (such as citric acid).
[0221] The composition according to the invention may optionally also contain one or more additives used in cosmetics, such as perfumes, thickeners, colorants.
[0222] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0223] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any such additives and their quantities so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0224] The composition according to the invention can advantageously be presented in the form of a shampoo.
[0225] The invention also relates to a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, of keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin fibers a composition as defined above.
[0226] Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for washing and / or conditioning human keratin fibers, more particularly hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said human keratin fibers a composition as defined above.
[0227] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a rinsing step of the keratin fibers is implemented after the step(s) of applying a composition according to the invention to said fibers.
[0228] A drying step of the keratin fibers may be provided in the process according to the invention, in particular using a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightener, a steam iron or a heating helmet; the heating means being able to heat to a temperature ranging from 35°C to 230°C, preferably from 50°C to 120°C.
[0229] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for the treatment of keratin fibers, preferably for the washing and / or conditioning of keratin fibers.
[0230] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being intended to be limiting. Examples
[0231] Example 1: Compositions Al, A2 and A3 according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as % by weight of active material (AM).
[0232] [Tables 1] Ingredients Al A2 A3 Sodium lauryl sulfate 6.7 6.5 6.7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.7 2.8 1.7 Coco-betaine 0.1 0.1 0.1 Capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide 1.0 1.4 1.0 Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 0.4 Coco-glucoside 0.26 0.26 0.26 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.38 0.38 0.38 Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 1.2 Glycol distearate 0.5 0.5 0.5 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 0.1 Preservatives qs qs qs Propylene glycol 0.1 0.2 0.1 pH adjuster qsp pH = 4.8 qsp pH = 4.8 Qsp pH = 5.3 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Weight ratio of total alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v) content to total fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol (iv) content 0.65 0.65 0.65
[0233] It has been observed that hair treated with one of the compositions Al, A2 or A3 according to the invention is particularly clean, easy to detangle, supple and soft to the touch.
[0234] In addition, the Al, A2 or A3 compositions according to the invention generate a foam of good quality and in large quantity.
[0235] Example 2: Comparative composition B was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as % by weight of active substance (AS).
[0236] [Tables2] Ingredients B Comparative Sodium lauryl sulfate 5.90 Coco-betaine 1.61 Glyceryl oleate 0.53 Coco-glucoside 3.51 Hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.40 Sodium chloride 1.35 Glycol distearate 0.50 Preservatives Qs pH adjuster Qsp pH = 5.3 Water Qsp 100 Weight ratio of total alkyl(poly)glycoside(s) (v) content to total fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol (iv) content 6.62
[0237] 2.1 Smoothing to the touch: The smoothness of the hair treated with compositions Al and A2 of example 1 (invention) or composition B (comparative) was evaluated.
[0238] Compositions A1, A2 and B were respectively applied to strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 1g and measuring 27cm in length, at a ratio of 0.4 gram of composition / gram of hair.
[0239] The smoothness was then evaluated for each of the treated hair strands (dry or wet), by measuring the friction effort (i.e. friction work in mJ) using a Lloyd Instrument tensile-compression machine (Ametek®).
[0240] More specifically, the frictional effort between the wick to be evaluated (dry or wet) and two rollers of the traction-compression machine which pass along the wick, from root to tips at constant speed, and which simulate the consumer's fingers, is measured in mJ.
[0241] The smoother the hair strand is to the touch, the lower the measured friction effort.
[0242] The results are grouped in the table below.
[0243] [Tables3] Compositions Friction work on wet hair (mJ) Friction work on dry hair (mJ) A1 (invention) 96.9 ± 9.3 134.2 ± 11.3 A2 (invention) 92.5 ± 10.4 131.99 ± 7.72 B (comparative) 134.3 ± 9.7 255.2 ± 18.6
[0244] It is observed that hair treated with composition Al or composition A2 according to the invention has a better smoothness to the touch than hair treated with comparative composition B.
[0245] 2.2 Stability: The stabilities of the compositions Al and A2 according to the invention and of the comparative composition B were evaluated.
[0246] For this purpose, the compositions Al, A2 and B, which were white in color and had a homogeneous appearance, were placed for 2 months in an oven at a temperature of 45°C and in the dark.
[0247] After two months of storage at 45°C, it was observed that the Al and A2 compositions according to the invention remained homogeneous in appearance, white in color, and without any phase shift phenomenon.
[0248] After two months of storage at 45°C, it was observed that comparative composition B is now out of phase and brown in color.
[0249] It appears that the compositions Al and A2 according to the invention exhibit better stability over time than the comparative composition B.
[0250] Example 3: A sensory evaluation of the hair treated with the compositions Al and A2 (invention) of example 1, was carried out.
[0251] Compositions Al and A2 according to the invention were respectively applied to strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) at a ratio of 0.4 gram of composition / gram of hair.
[0252] A sensory evaluation of the conditioning properties of each treated strand, first dry and then wet, was carried out by 3 experts. For this, each expert compared one of the treated strands (with Al or A2) with a strand of hair treated with a commercial shampoo containing a silicone and a cationic polymer, using the same ratio of 0.4 grams of composition per gram of hair.
[0253] Each expert then rates the hair strands treated according to the invention, according to the following notation: +3: much, much better than with commercial shampoo, +2: much better than with commercial shampoo. +1: better than with commercial shampoo, +0.5: slightly better than with commercial shampoo, 0: similar to the strand treated with commercial shampoo, -0.5: slightly worse than with commercial shampoo, -1: worse than with commercial shampoo.
[0254] The results are grouped in the table below.
[0255] [Tables4] Properties Al A2 Wet Hair Detangling +1 +3 Smoothness +1 +1 Suppleness +1.5 +1 Coating +1 +2 Dry Hair Smoothness +1.5 +1 Suppleness +2 +0.5
[0256] It is observed that hair treated with compositions Al or A2 according to the invention exhibits conditioning properties at least equivalent, and even better in some respects, than hair treated with commercial shampoo based on silicone and cationic polymer.
[0257] Example 4: Composition Al according to the invention and comparative composition B2 were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as % by weight of active material (AM).
[0258] [Tables5] Ingredients: Al B2 Sodium lauryl sulfate 6.7 6.7 Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.7 2.7 Coco-betaine 0.1 0.1 Capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide 1.0 Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 Coco-glucoside 0.26 0.26 Hydroxypropyl chloride guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride 0.38 0.38 Sodium chloride 0.5 0.5 Glycol distearate 0.5 0.5 Carbomer 0.1 0.1 Preservatives qs qs Propylene glycol 0.1 0.1 pH adjuster qsp pH = 4.8 qsp pH = 4.8 Water qsp 100 qsp 100
[0259] 4.1 Smooth feel and detangling: Al or B2 compositions are applied to moderately sensitized strands (alkaline solubility = 20%, SA 20) which have been previously moistened, in a standardized manner by massaging the strands for 15 seconds (6 passes between the fingers) at a rate of lg / 2.7g of hair.
[0260] After 1 minute pause, the hair is rinsed for 20 seconds (25 passes between the fingers).
[0261] The hair is then wrung out, and its smooth feel is evaluated while still wet; the hair is then air-dried and detangling is evaluated on dry hair.
[0262] The impact of the invention on performance in terms of smooth touch was evaluated on wet hair by 5 experts, in a blind test, on a rating scale from 0 (low) to 8 (very good).
[0263] In order to assess the smooth touch, the expert grasps the lock between the thumb and forefinger and slides his fingers along the lock from the top to the tips;
[0264] It assesses whether the hair is soft, whether it has no roughness, whether it does not catch the fingers, whether the touch is homogeneous.
[0265] The results are grouped in the table below.
[0266] [Tableauxô] Smooth Touch Al invention B2 invention Expert 1 4 2 Expert 2 4 2 Expert 3 4 5 Expert 4 4 3 Expert 5 4 2 Average 4 2.8 Standard deviation 0 0.96
[0267] The smooth feel conferred by composition Al according to the invention is judged to be significantly better than that conferred by the comparative composition B2.
[0268] The impact of the invention on detangling performance was evaluated on dry hair by 1 expert, in a blind test, on a rating scale from 0 (low) to 8 (very good).
[0269] To assess detangling, the expert evaluates the ease with which a fine-toothed comb can pass through the hair, sliding it from root to tip.
[0270] The results are grouped in the table below.
[0271] [Tables7] Al Invention B2 Comparative 6.4 3.2
[0272] Hair treated with composition Al according to the invention is significantly easier to detangle compared to hair treated with composition B2.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: i. 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one anionic surfactant, ii. at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, iii. 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one glucamide compound, iv. 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester, and v. from 0.1% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one alkyl(poly)glycoside, in which: - the weight ratio of the total content of alkyl(poly)glycoside(s), to the total content of fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol is less than or equal to 1, and - the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 7.5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) are selected from anionic sulfate surfactants; preferably from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamido ethers sulfates, alkylaryl polyethers sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from C6-C30 alkyl sulfates, better from C8-C24, even better from C10-C24, or even from C12-C22 alkyl ethers sulfates, preferably from C6-C24, better from C10-C24, or even from C2-C22, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide motifs, salts of these compounds, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially among the alkyl sulfates in C6-C3o, better in C8-C24, even better in Ci0-C24, or even in C[2-C22.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric surfactant(s) or Zwitterionics are selected from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; preferably from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) ranges from 7.5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glucamide compound(s) are selected from acyl-glucamides, preferably from acyl-glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22, better from 6 to 20, even better from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of glucamide compound(s) ranges from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoester(s) are selected from C6-C40 fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoesters; preferably from C8-C30 fatty acid and (poly)glycerol monoesters; more preferably from C8-C30 fatty acid and glycerol monoesters.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alkyl(poly)glycosides are selected from (C6-C30)alkyl(poly)glycosides, preferably from (C8-C24)alkyl(poly)glycosides; more preferably from (C8-Ci8)alkyl(poly)glycosides; better from coco-glucosides, decyl-glucosides, caprylyl / capryl-glucosides, lauryl-glucosides, and mixtures thereof.
9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total alkyl(poly)glycoside content to the total fatty acid monoester(s) and (poly)glycerol content is less than 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.9, more preferably between 0.01 and 0.9, more preferably less than or equal to 0.8, better between 0.05 and 0.8, even better less than or equal to 0.7, or even between 0.1 and 0.
7.
10. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic polymer, preferably selected from non-associative cationic polymers; and more preferably selected from: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following formula units: CHp- Ç — oc O HAS R R.. formulas in which: - R3, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; - Ri and R2, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; and - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide, (2) cationic polysaccharides, such as cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums, (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with linear or branched chains, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers, (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine, (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoylation by bifunctional agents, (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers, (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula (VIII): ^13 R.î5 ---N * - A, — N 8„.— (Wine) II R X- R,„ X- ^14 ta formula (VIII), in which: - Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or Rn, R[4, Ri5 and Ri6, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or Rn, Ru, Rb and Ri6 represent a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-Rp-D or -CO-NH-Rp-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, Rn and Ri5 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; in addition if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- group in which D denotes: a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2-CH2-O)X-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine remnant such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of the formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; or d) a ureylene group with the formula: -NH-CO-NH-, (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising motifs of formula (X): (CH2)f-NH -CO-fCH^-CO —A — ® X- ^21
11. formula (X), in which: - Ri8, Rw, R2o and R2i, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R[9, R2o and R2i do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X denotes an anion such as a halide, and - A designates a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-; (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, (11) polyamines; and (12) polymers comprising in their structure: (a) one or more patterns meeting the following formula (A): ri h, W (b) possibly one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B): p (B)' MH—C—H II o (13) and their mixtures. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are selected from cationic polysaccharides; preferably from gums of cationic galactomannans; more preferentially among cationic guar gums.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is devoid of silicone.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more particles, preferably selected from opacifiers, pigments, fragments of one or more plants, and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a percentage of natural origin, as defined in international standard ISO 16128-2, greater than or equal to 90%; preferably greater than or equal to 92%; more preferably greater than or equal to 94%.
15. A process for treating keratin fibers, preferably for washing and / or conditioning keratin fibers, comprising at least one step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14.