ANHYDROUS COSMETIC CORRECTOR COMPOSITIONS WITH LOW CHARGE LEVELS

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COSMETIC CORRECTOR COMPOSITIONS WITH LOW FILLERS LEVELS. The invention provides cosmetic corrector compositions comprising at least approximately 25% by weight of one or more oils. The compositions include from 0.5% by weight to approximately 4% by weight of one or more fillers, wherein the one or more fillers comprise silica aerogel, borosilicate, swelling clay, and combinations thereof. The compositions further include at least 25% by weight of one or more pigments. The compositions are substantially water-free. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Description Title of the invention: ANHYDROUS COSMETIC CORRECTIVE COMPOSITIONS HAVING LOW LEVELS OF CHARGE FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] — The present invention relates to cosmetic corrector compositions including low concentrations of fillers. REVIEW OF THE CONTEXT

[0002] — We know the pigmented cosmetic compositions which are designed for conceal skin imperfections. These compositions can take forms various, such as liquids, creams, loose powders, compact powders, compositions hot castings, sticks, etc. However, these compositions have one or several drawbacks in various properties.

[0003] — The inventors of the present invention have recognized that many of these com- positions of the prior art do not simultaneously possess a combination of properties that would be very advantageous for the “local treatment” of imperfections cutaneous. For example, the present inventors recognized that it would be desirable to have a composition which offers good sticking power and good adhesion to the skin while providing a pleasant gliding sensation when applied. The present inventors have further separately recognized that it would be desirable that such a composition is used with different levels and types of pigments for enable concealing performance to be achieved for a wide range of skin tones, especially for darker skin tones.

[0004] — Accordingly, certain aspects of the present invention relate to a com- position of makeup and / or treatment of keratinous materials which can mask skin imperfections, tolerate a formulation with darker pigments and / or high pigment loads and surprisingly present one or more cosmetic properties such as, for example, good stickiness and good adhesion to the skin, a pleasant feeling when applied, a level of shine suitable and / or convenient application to the skin. Summary of the invention

[0005] — The present invention relates to compositions useful as cosmetic correctors metics, which include at least about 25% by weight of one or more oils. The compositions further include from 0.5 wt% to about 4 wt% of at least one of the following: at least one filler, wherein the at least one filler comprises aerogel silica, borosilicate, swelling clay and combinations thereof. The com- positions further include at least 25% by weight of at least one pigment, the compositions being substantially free of water. In some aspects, the compositions of the present invention include (1) from about 25% to about 70% by weight of one or more lipids, wherein the one or more lipids include (a) at least one oil, (b) a high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester; (c) at least one wax, and (d) at least one paste-like compound; (2) one or more inorganic particles, wherein the one or more inorganic particles include (a) at least one filler, present in a concentration by weight of about 0.5% to about 4% by weight of the entire composition, wherein the at least one filler is selected from a group consisting of silica aerogel, borosilicate, swelling clay, and combinations thereof; (b) one or more pigments, present in a concentration by weight of at least about 25% by weight of the entire composition;wherein the at least one pigment includes a pigment selected from color pigments, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof; and (3) from about 10 wt. % to about 30 wt. % of an unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 10,000 daltons; wherein the composition is substantially free of water, boron nitride, talc, mica, bismuth oxychloride ("BIOCI"), and perlite. The paste-like compound may be in a concentration by weight of from about 5% to about 15% of the entire composition. Color pigments (e.g., iron oxides) may be included in the composition in concentrations by weight of at least about 5%, such as at least about 10%, such as from about 10% to about 30%. ; According to another aspect of the invention, a method of making up a keratinous substrate includes a method of concealing imperfections on a keratinous substrate comprising the topical application of the aforementioned compositions to selected imperfections on the keratinous substrate. It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are provided for the purpose of example and explanation only, and do not limit the invention. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION By the expression "at least one" we mean one or more and this therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations. In this document, all ranges provided are intended to include each specific range within the given ranges, as well as a combination of intermediate sub-ranges. In addition, the description of the range such as "from about 1%, 2% or 3% to about 5%, 10% or 15%" includes, but is not limited to, about 1% to about 5%, from about 1% to about 10%, from about 1% to about 15%, from about 2% to about 5%, from about 2% to about 10%, from about 2% to about 15%, from about 3% to about 5%, from about 3% to about 10% and / or from about 3% to about 15%. Except in working examples, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients and / or reaction conditions are understood to be modified in all circumstances by the term "about", meaning to within 10% to 15% of the number indicated. Thus, "about 10%" means from 8.5% to 11.5%, as from 9% to 11%. By "active base" as used herein is meant that only the particular component of the ingredient (e.g., in a composition) is considered and other chemically unrelated components that may also be present in the same raw material source of that particular component are ignored. By "film former" or "film-forming agent" as used herein is meant any material such as, for example, a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied. “Polymer” as used herein means a compound that consists of at least two monomers. “Keratinous materials” include materials containing keratin such as hair, skin, eyebrows, lips, and nails. By "solid base" as used herein is meant that only those components (e.g., in a composition) that are solid at room temperature are considered and that those parts of the composition that are liquid, e.g., water and other volatile solvents, are ignored. By "substituted" as used herein is meant comprising at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen atoms and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, hydroxyalkyl groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted. By "volatile" as used herein is meant having a flash point less than about 100°C. By "non-volatile" as used herein is meant having a flash point above about 100°C. By "substantially free" is meant having less than 1% by weight of a particular component, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, such as less than 0.25% by weight, such as less than 0.1% by weight. By "anhydrous" is meant that the compositions are substantially free of water and preferably do not contain water. All percentages of ingredients herein are listed on an active basis and on a weight basis relative to the entire composition, unless otherwise specifically indicated. The composition of the present invention can be in various forms, including semi-solid and shear-flowable. The composition of the invention generally includes at least one oil and optionally other lipids; at least one filler, at least one pigment and optionally other inorganic particles; and is substantially free of water. The lipid(s) may coexist, for example, in a fat phase, such as a phase having inorganic particles dispersed therein. Optional ingredients such as aliphatic tackifiers, polymers, etc., may be dissolved or dispersed in the fat phase. Many other optional ingredients such as other particles, preservatives, skin active ingredients and the like may also be dissolved or dispersed in the fat phase. “Inorganic particle” as used herein means any finely divided material that is predominantly inorganic (including inorganic particles having an organic or silicon-based coating, but excluding silicone elastomer particles). Inorganic particles include pigments and fillers. Although the relative proportions of these components may vary, in some embodiments of the invention, the composition may include a concentration of lipids and inorganic particles such that the total (combined) concentrations of lipids and inorganic particles may be at least about 60% by weight of the total composition. In some embodiments, the amount of lipids and inorganic particles is present in a concentration by weight of at least about 60% by weight of the total composition, such as at least about 70%, by weight of the total composition. In certain other embodiments, the lipids and inorganic particles are present in a lipid to inorganic particle weight ratio that is from about 1:2 to about 2:1, such as from about 1:1 to about 2:1. In some other embodiments, the composition includes from about 25% or 30% by weight to about 60% or 70% by weight of lipids and from about 15% or 25% by weight to about 45% or 60% by weight of inorganic particles. The compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components or limitations described herein or otherwise useful in cosmetics. CHARGE The compositions of the present invention include certain inorganic particles such as at least one filler. The at least one filler provides one or more benefits, including opacity / concealing power to help mask skin imperfections, modification of formula texture, oil absorption, as well as possible matting and soft focus / blurring effects, but without causing excessive whitening of the skin. Suitable fillers include any of a variety of inorganic particles that provide some opacity without generally appearing too white or whitish on the skin. Particularly suitable classes of fillers are “non-whitening” fillers, particularly borosilicates, silica aerogels, and swelling clays. Examples of non-bleaching fillers include borosilicates such as aluminum borosilicates such as calcium aluminum borosilicate. The borosilicates may be hollow borosilicate particles according to the invention and are ordinarily homogeneous and substantially uniform in sphericity. While the average diameter of the hollow borosilicate particles may be up to 100 µm, the average particle diameter is ordinarily between 3 µm and 20 µm, and preferably between 9 µm and 13 µm. In some embodiments, the hollow borosilicate particles comprise an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as calcium and / or sodium, and may optionally contain a transition metal or post-transition metal, such as aluminum. A preferred embodiment is calcium aluminum borosilicate particles. Other suitable hollow borosilicate particles according to the present invention include sodium borosilicate particles marketed by PQ Corporation under the trademark Q-CEL. Also suitable are calcium / sodium borosilicate hollow microspheres marketed by 3M. Preferred hollow borosilicate particles are typically white, high-glide, chemically inert, non-absorbent, non-porous, free-flowing powders. Preferred hollow borosilicate particles according to the present invention include those marketed by Presperse Inc. under the trademark LUXSIL®. In some embodiments, the hollow borosilicate particles have densities between 1.05 g / cm3 and 1.15 g / cm3, have a weight loss on drying of less than 0.5%, and contain, for example, less than 20 ppm lead and less than 3 ppm arsenic. Other suitable non-bleaching fillers include swelling clays. The compositions of the present invention include a swelling clay. By "swelling clay" is meant a clay-like material capable of swelling in water. Smectite clays are an example of a swelling clay. The crystal structure of the smectite group is an octahedral alumina sheet between two tetrahedral silica sheets. In a particular embodiment, the swelling clay is bentonite. Bentonite is a rock formed from highly colloidal and plastic clays composed primarily of montmorillonite, a clay mineral of the smectite group, and is produced by in situ devitrification of volcanic ash. In addition to montmorillonite, bentonite may contain feldspar, cristobalite, and crystalline quartz. Bentonite has the ability to form thixotrophic gels with water, a capacity to absorb large amounts of water.Variations in pore water and exchangeable cations in the interlayer space affect the properties of bentonite and thus the commercial uses of different types of bentonite. A particular swelling clay that can be used in the composition is BENTONE GEL GTCC V, commercially available from Elementis Specialties, East Windsor, New Jersey. BENTONE GEL GTCC V is a dispersion of organically modified hectorite in caprylic / capric triglycerides with the addition of propylene carbonate. The concentration of swelling clay, if any, in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, from about 0.2% to about 0.65% by weight, such as from about 0.2% to about 0.45% in the composition. Other suitable non-bleaching fillers include silica aerogels. Suitable silica aerogels are hydrophobic silicas and include, but are not limited to, pyrogenic silica with a hydrophobic surface treatment having a particle size of less than | micron, preferably less than 500 nm, preferably less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 30 nm, including all ranges and sub-ranges between them. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by a chemical reaction producing a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, the silanol groups can be replaced by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. The silicas thus treated are called “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are, for example, marketed under the references “AEROSIL R812®” by the company Degussa, “CAB-O-SIL TS-530®” by the company Cabot or “VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PPARTS” by Dow. dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, obtained in particular by treatment of pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldi- chlorosilane. Silicas treated in this way are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are, for example, marketed under the references "AEROSIL R972®", "AEROSIL R974®" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610®", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720®" by the company Cabot. In addition, silica aerogel particles may be added to the compositions of the present invention, if desired. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are typically synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, typically by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents shrinkage of the pores and the material. The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which can be used in the present invention may have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m2 / g and more preferably from 600 to 800 m2 / g, and a size expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, more preferably from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particular from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, more preferably from 5 to 20 µm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 µm. According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which can be used in the present invention have a size, expressed as volume average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 um, preferably from 5 to 25 um, more preferably from 5 to 20 um and even more preferably from 5 to 15 um. The size of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercially available particle size analyzer such as the Malvern MasterSizer 2000 machine. The data is processed using Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, allows for the determination of an "effective" particle diameter in the case of non-spherical particles. In certain embodiments, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can have a specific surface area per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g and a size expressed as a volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 µm. The silica aerogel particles which can be used in the present invention may advantageously have a tap density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably from 0.03 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3 and most preferably from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3. According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles which can be used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m2 / cm3, preferably from 10 to 50 m2 / cm3 and even better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3. The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: SV = SM xp, where p is the compacted density expressed in g / cm3 and SM is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles that can be used according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wetting point, ranging from 5 to 18 mL / g, preferably from 6 to 15 mL / g and better still from 8 to 12 mL / g. The absorption capacity measured at the wetting point, denoted Wp, corresponds to the quantity of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the “wetting point” method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wetting point, described below: a quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is then added dropwise.After adding 4 to 5 drops of oil to the powder, mix with a spatula and continue adding oil until conglomerates of oil and powder form. From this point on, the oil is added at a rate of one drop at a time, then the mixture is kneaded with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be able to be spread on the glass plate without cracking or forming lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in mL) of oil used is then noted. The oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. . The aerogels which can be used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate). The term "hydrophobic silica" means any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example, halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with Si-Rn silyl groups, e.g., trimethylsilyl groups. Silica silylate is a particulate hydrophobic silica having surface trialkylsiloxyl groups. Non-bleaching fillers can be coated or uncoated. In some embodiments, the non-bleaching fillers have an average particle size in a range of about 1 micron to about 100 microns, such as about 1 micron to about 10 microns. Other fillers that may be included in the composition (explicitly not included among the non-bleaching fillers) include talc, boron nitride, micas (such as synthetic mica / synthetic fluorophlogopite and natural mica), bismuth oxychloride and perlite. Although in some embodiments of the invention, the composition may include such fillers, in certain particular embodiments of the invention, the compositions are substantially free of all of these: micas, talc, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, and boron nitride. In certain other embodiments, the talc and mica that are restricted in the composition are limited to materials that are free of multi-layer coatings that provide interference pigment effects. In other words, in these embodiments, the compositions may include talc or micas that are interference (color) pigments, but are otherwise substantially free of mica, talc, perlite, bismuth oxychloride, and boron nitride (fillers). Examples of boron nitride include SOFTOUCH BORON NITRIDE POWDER CC6058, commercially available from Momentive Performance Materials, Waterford, New York. Examples of perlite (non-crystalline volcanic glass) include those with a typical composition of 70-75% silicon dioxide, 12-15% aluminum oxide, 3-5% potassium oxide, 3-4% sodium oxide, and traces of iron oxide, magnesium oxide, and calcium oxide. The total concentration by weight of fillers is present in small amounts in the compositions of the present invention. The total concentration of fillers in the composition is less than about 4%, such as less than about 3%, such as from about 0.5%, 1% or 1.5% to about 2%, 3% or 4% by weight. The compositions of the present invention include one or more inorganic pigments such as one or more color pigments and / or titanium dioxide. The color pigment provides a camouflage powder to help mask skin imperfections while imparting additional visible color. Suitable color pigments include any of various inorganic pigments such as iron oxides, ultramarine blue pigments, manganese violet, ferric ferrocyanide and chrome green pigments, carbon black, and the like. Iron oxide is particularly notable. The color pigments may or may not be coated; however, in some embodiments of the invention, the color pigments are not coated. Any of various cosmetic grades of color pigments are suitable for use in the compositions of the present invention. In some embodiments, the color pigments have an average particle size in a range of about 1 micron to about 100 microns, such as about 1 micron to about 10 microns. The concentration of color pigments in the composition may range from about 0.01%, 0.05% or 0.5% to about 1%, 2% or 30% by weight, inclusive of all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, In some embodiments of the invention, the color pigments are present in the composition in a concentration by weight of at least about 5%, such as at least about 10%, such as from about 5%, 10% or 12% to about 15%, 20% or 30% by weight. Furthermore, the compositions of the present invention may further include an opacifying pigment such as titanium dioxide. The opacifying pigment provides a camouflage powder, but is generally used in concentrations to limit whitening effects on the skin. The opacifying pigment, preferably titanium dioxide, may be present in a concentration of up to about 30% by weight in the composition, such as from about 0%, 1% or 2% to about 2%, 4%, 5%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 30%. In certain preferred embodiments, the compositions include a color pigment and titanium dioxide. In some embodiments, the total concentration of pigments (color pigments and opacifying pigments) is at least about 25%, such as from about 25% or 30% to about 30% or 35% by weight. In some other embodiments, the ratio of color pigments to opacifying pigments is at least about 1:5, such as at least about 1:1. In some embodiments, the ratio of color pigments to opacifying pigments is from about 1:1 to about 100:1. As described above, the compositions of the present invention include one or more lipids, such as at least one oil. By "lipids" is meant any of a variety of water-insoluble fatty substances and including, for example, hydrocarbon-based fatty substances or silicone-based fatty substances. They may be liquid or solid at room temperature and may be volatile or non-volatile. By "oil" is meant compounds having a melting point below about 15°C, such as below about 10°C, and generally insoluble in water and including a hydrophobic moiety, such as a compound meeting one or more of the following three criteria: (a) has a carbon chain of at least six carbons in which none of the six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic moiety (defined below) directly attached thereto; (b) has two or more alkyl siloxy groups; or (c) has two or more oxypropylene groups in sequence. The hydrophobic moiety may include linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated groups.The hydrophobic compound is in some embodiments non-amphiphilic and, as such, in this embodiment does not include hydrophilic moieties, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or non-ionic groups, which are polar, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, ammonium, including mono-, di- and trialkylammonium species, pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneiminium), ammo- . nioalkylsulfonate, ammonioalkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate and poly(ethyleneoxy)sulfonyl moieties. In some embodiments, the oil does not include hydroxyl moieties. The oil may have a weight average molecular weight of less than about 1000 daltons. Suitable examples of oil compounds include vegetable oils (glyceryl esters of fatty acids, monoglycerides, diglycerides, triglycerides) and fatty esters. Specific non-limiting examples include, but are not limited to, esters such as isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isononyl isonanoate, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, caprylic / capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl palmitate, silicone oils (such as dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane), pentaerythritol tetraoctanoate, and mineral oil. Other examples of oils include a liquid organic ultraviolet filter commonly used, for example, as a UV-absorbing sunscreen such as octocrylene, octyl salicylate, octyl methoxycinnamate, among others. Suitable oils include volatile and / or non-volatile oils. These oils can be any acceptable oil, including, but not limited to, silicone oils and / or hydrocarbon-based oils. In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention may include one or more volatile silicone oils. Examples of such volatile silicone oils include linear or cyclic silicone oils having a room temperature viscosity of less than or equal to 6 cSt and having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, such silicones being optionally substituted with alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Specific oils that may be used in the invention include octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. Other volatile oils that can be used include KF 96A with a viscosity of 6 cSt, a commercial product from Shin Etsu with a flash point of 94 °C. The concentration of oils in the composition is preferably at least about 25%, such as from about 25%, 30% or 35% by weight to about 35%, 40% or 50% by weight, including all combinations of these ranges, based on the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the present invention may include other lipids such as at least one wax. By "wax" as used herein is meant a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (about 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), undergoes a reversible solid / liquid state change, and has a melting point above 30°C, and in some embodiments, above about 55°C up to about 120°C, or even up to about 200°C. In some embodiments, the wax has a weight average molecular weight of less than about 2000 daltons. The wax can change from solid to liquid state reversibly, and / or can have a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa at room temperature, and an anisotropic crystal organization in the solid state. The term wax can include animal-derived waxes, vegetable-derived waxes, mineral-derived waxes, and synthetic-derived waxes. Examples of animal-derived waxes include beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes. Examples of vegetable-derived waxes include rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricure wax, cork fiber waxes, sugarcane waxes, Japanese waxes, sumac wax, and cotton wax. Examples of mineral-derived waxes include paraffins, microcrystalline waxes, lignite waxes, and ozocerites. Examples of waxes of synthetic origin include polyolefin waxes, e.g., polyethylene waxes (low molecular weight linear polyethylene waxes), waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, waxy copolymers and their esters, and fluorinated silicone waxes. The term wax can also include high-melting hydrogenated oils of animal or vegetable origin. Examples include hydrogenated jojoba waxes and hydrogenated oils that are obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of fats composed of a linear or non-linear C8-C32 fatty chain, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin, and hydrogenated palm oils. In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include from about |% to about 10% wax. However, in certain other embodiments, the compositions of the present invention have only limited amounts of wax, such as less than about 5% by weight, such as from about 1% to about 4% by weight. In some embodiments of the invention, the composition may include other lipids that do not fall within the definition of wax or oils, such as fats that are semi-solid, pasty, or paste-like at room temperature (“pasty compound”), e.g., have a melting temperature in a range of about 15°C to about 40°C. Suitable examples include shea butter, hydrogenated butters, and any of various partial esters of diglycerin with medium-chain fatty acids, such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, commercially available as SOFTISAN 649 from Cremer Oleo of Hamburg, Germany; and ethylhexyl hydroxystearate such as WICKENOL 171 available from Alzo International of Sayerville, NJ. In some embodiments, the compositions of the invention include from about 5% or 7% or 8% to about 12% or 15% of the pasty compound. Examples of other suitable lipids include hydroxy fatty acid esters. The hydroxy fatty acid esters may have a high melting point. By "high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester" is meant a hydroxy fatty acid ester having a melting point of at least 40°C. In some embodiments, the hydroxy fatty acid ester has a melting point of at least about 50°C, such as at least about 60°C, such as at least about 80°C. In some embodiments, the high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester is a fatty acid glycerol triester (fatty acid glycerol triester). In some embodiments, the high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester has at least one carbon chain of C12 or higher. In some other embodiments, it has at least two hydroxyl groups. In some other embodiments, the high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester is trihydroxystearin (THS). A particular high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester suitable for use in the composition is hydroxystearin THIXCIN R, commercially available from Elementis Specialties, East Windsor, New Jersey. The concentration of the high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester in the composition may range from about 0.1% to about 5% by weight, such as from about 0.1% to about 1%, such as from about 0.25% to about 1% by weight of the composition. The total lipid concentration in the composition may be from about 10%, 15%, 20%, 25% or 35% by weight to about 40%, 55% or 60% by weight, including all combinations of these ranges, based on the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the present invention may optionally include other functional ingredients such as those that can be readily dissolved, dispersed, or suspended in the composition. These may include: at least one unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 10,000 daltons, such as less than about 5,000 daltons, such as from about 1,500 to about 4,000. The aliphatic tackifier generally provides improved adhesion to the skin and is suitable for use in topical treatment (e.g., "concealer" formulations). By "tackifier" is meant a material that improves surface adhesion and may have a glass transition temperature of less than about 0°C (as measured by DTA or DSC). By "aliphatics" is meant hydrocarbon-based compounds or materials that are straight, branched, or cyclic, but are free of aromatic ring structures. In some particular embodiments, the aliphatic tackifier is unsaturated, such as a polybutene. Polybutene tackifiers can be made by polymerizing C4 olefins (e.g., primarily isobutene) and can be, for example, free-flowing, tacky materials with a honey-like consistency or very sticky semi-solids. These synthetic hydrocarbon tackifiers can have a viscosity between about 1000 centistokes (cSt) and 5000 cSt when measured at 100 °C. INDOPOL H 1500 is a notable aliphatic tackifier, commercially available from Ineos Capital of London, England. In some embodiments, the concentration of the unsaturated aliphatic tackifier in the composition is at least about 10%, such as about 10%, 15%, 20% by weight, to about 20% or 30% by weight of the composition. Other functional ingredients may include an activator for the optional clay. A suitable activator is an organic carbonate ester. In some embodiments of the invention, the organic carbonate ester is a C1-C4 alkylene carbonate such as ethylene carbonate or propylene carbonate, and more particularly, propylene carbonate. The organic carbonate ester may, as indicated above, be added via the same raw material as the swelling clay. It may also be added separately. Other functional ingredients that may be included in the composition include a film-forming polymer. Film-forming polymers are polymers or resins that leave a film (e.g., a continuous film) on the substrate to which they are applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, been absorbed into the substrate, and / or dissipated onto or from the substrate.In some embodiments, the film-forming polymer forms a conformal coating and / or can be picked up or scraped with a razor blade for removal as a free-standing film in a pick-and-place test, such as that performed by placing 5 to 10 grams of material in the center of a Leneta card stock (Byko-Charts 2812 black and white opacity cards available from BYK Additives and Instruments of Geretsried, Germany) and using a 3 mil Birdbar pick-and-place bar (also available from BYK), spreading the material onto the sheet (8 inches by 3 inches) and allowing it to dry overnight. The film-forming polymer may have one or more of acrylic, urethane, ester, vinyl, silicone, or other functionality. In some embodiments, the film-forming polymer is a polysaccharide- or protein-based polymer. In some embodiments, the film-forming polymer is a vinyl polymer, such as VP / hexadecane copolymer, available as GANEX V216 from Ashland Global Specialty Chemicals Inc. of Wilmington, Delaware. Optionally, the film-forming polymer may be present in a concentration of about 0.25%, 0.5% or 1% to about 1%, 2%, 5% or 10% by weight in the composition. Other functional ingredients that may be included in the composition include other particulate materials (organic, silicone-based); oligomers or polymers such as for thickening / rheology modification, tackifying or film forming; preservatives; colorants, perfumes; antioxidants; sunscreens; skin actives including vitamins and the like. A person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additional ingredients and / or their amount so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, compromised by the intended addition. These substances can be selected in various ways by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition which has the desired properties, for example, the desired consistency or texture. Other functional ingredients that may be included in the composition include surfactants or emulsifiers. While in certain embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include a surfactant or an emulsifier, in certain other particular embodiments, the composition is substantially free of surfactants and emulsifiers. The other functional ingredients may be present in the composition at concentrations up to about 20%, such as from about 0%, 2% or 5% to about 10%, 15% or 20%, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges. In some embodiments, the compositions of the present invention include (1) from about 25% to about 70% by weight of one or more lipids, wherein the one or more lipids include (a) at least one oil, (b) a high melting point hydroxy fatty acid ester; (c) at least one wax, and (d) a paste-like compound; (2) one or more inorganic particles, wherein the one or more inorganic particles include (a) at least one filler, present in a concentration by weight of from about 0.5% to about 4% based on the entire composition, wherein the at least one filler is selected from a group consisting of silica aerogel, borosilicate, swelling clay, and combinations thereof; (b) one or more pigments, present in a concentration by weight of at least about 25% based on the entire composition;wherein the one or more pigments include a pigment selected from color pigments, titanium dioxide, and combinations thereof; and (3) from about 10 wt. % to about 30 wt. % of an unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 10,000 daltons; wherein the composition is substantially free of water, boron nitride, talc, mica, bismuth oxychloride, and perlite. The paste-like compound may be in one; concentration by weight of about 5% to about 12% of the entire composition. The compositions can be made with different orders of addition. For example, the oils, waxes, and solid ingredients (non-bleaching fillers and color pigments and unsaturated aliphatic tackifier) ​​can be melted to create a uniform liquid mixture. After cooling to about 60°C, the trihydroxystearin and the paste-like compounds can then be mixed with high shear until homogeneous. The remaining ingredients, swelling clay (BENTONE GEL GTCC), and preservatives / actives can then be added to the container with stirring at about 60°C until a homogeneous fluid composition is obtained. The composition is then allowed to cool to room temperature. Alternatively, swelling clay can also be added with the oils, wax, and fillers. Preferred embodiments of the present invention provide methods of treating, caring for, and / or making up a keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, care for, and / or make up the keratinous material. Still other preferred embodiments provide methods of improving the appearance of a keratinous material by applying compositions of the present invention to the keratinous material in an amount sufficient to improve the appearance of the keratinous material. In accordance with the foregoing preferred embodiments, the compositions of the present invention are applied topically to the desired area of ​​keratinous material in an amount sufficient to treat, condition, and / or make up the keratinous material, to topically treat, cover, or mask blemishes, pigmentation discontinuities, or defects associated with the keratinous material, or to improve the appearance of the keratinous material. The compositions may be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before subjecting them to contact such as with clothing or other objects. Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for about 4 minutes or less, more preferably for about 2 minutes or less. Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing amounts of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc. used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "about". Accordingly, unless otherwise indicated, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and appended claims are approximations which may vary depending on the desired properties sought to be achieved by the present invention. Although the numerical ranges and parameters stating the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values ​​presented in the speci- Specific values ​​are reported as accurately as possible. However, any numerical value inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting its scope accordingly. Percentages are provided on a weight basis. Example | —- Inventive compositions Compositions corresponding to the ingredients and concentrations below were prepared: [Tables 1] EX. EX. EX. INVENTIVE [INVENTIVE |INVE 1 2 F3 FUNCTION / TY |INGREDIENT | |WEIGHT CONCENTRATION PE [Oils |Triglyceride ca- |33% 33% “|33 % |L1 æ [11 æ |10 % J8% |1æ [Oils] Triglyceride |33% 33% | 33% Polypropyl / capric triglyceride Waxes Miscellaneous 3% 3% 4% High melting point hydroxylated fatty acid ester |THS 0.6% 0.6% 0.5% Compounds |Miscellaneous | % [us % |10% Pasty Non-whitening filler |Hectorite, aerogel 13% 3% [1% silica, calcium borosilicate | and aluminum |Pigment [Titanium dioxide PR 0% 27% 13% [13 |s æ |s % [5% es. jes. Pigment |Titanium dioxide [27% 0% 27% Opacifier Pigment of Iron oxides 3% 30% 3% Color Other filler Boron nitride 1% Tackifier ali-|Polybutene |13% |13% |14% unsaturated phatic Polymer Copolymer of |s% |s% |s% Vinyl film former Other in- Preservatives, QsQSQS active ingredients for skin, etc. For Inventive Examples 1, 2 and 3, the oils, waxes and solid ingredients (non-bleaching fillers and color pigments and unsaturated aliphatic tackifier) ​​were melted to create a uniform liquid mixture. After allowing them to cool to about 60°C, the trihydroxystearin and the pasty compounds were mixed with high shear until homogeneous. The ingredient was then added remaining, swelling clay (BENTONE GEL GTCC) and preservatives / actives into the container while stirring at about 60°C until a homogeneous fluid composition was obtained. The composition was then allowed to cool to room temperature. The consistency was such that the compositions could be filled into tubes which could be squeezed to release the composition. Inventive Examples 1 and 2 were free from bleaching fillers such as mica, talc, perlite, bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride. The compositions were applied to the skin and a surprisingly pleasant feel upon application, good adhesion, appropriate sheen, high skin coverage, good break / texture were noted.Furthermore, the inventive examples, including inventive example 2, which had a very high concentration of color pigments, continued to exhibit high color intensity without providing a whitish cast. Inventive example 3, while continuing to exhibit some whitish casts (particularly as the titanium dioxide in the composition is increasingly substituted with color pigments), exhibited a dramatic increase in color intensity compared to the comparative examples below. Example 2 —-C iti ] Comparative compositions were also prepared with the ingredients and concentrations below, as shown in the tables below. [Tables 2] 5 5 & COMP. 1|COMP. |COMP. |COMP. | 2 3 4 parer |INGREDIENT CONCENTRATION IN % BY WEIGHT | PE |Oils |Triglyceride |27 % |ræ J2% 1% 3% 3% 3% 4% 0.5% 05% 105% 10.5% 6% 9% |9 [10 % 1% 1% [2% |1% T (4% 4% 4% 3% Titanium Dioxide [26% [26% [26% 4% opacifier Titanium Pigment Iron Oxides 14% 4% 4% 3% color |Other fillers |Perite, BiOCL, [10% |10% |3% [6th |L0% |3% [6% |L6 æ [12% [14 % [14 æ | Polymer |s % |s % |s % |s % vinyl Preservatives, |QSQSQSQS skin actives, | An additional comparative composition was also prepared with the ingredients and concentrations below. [Tables 3] 4% “Jos [10% |Læ Tr 13% Opacifying pigment Color pigment | Other fillers |L4 urea | Polymer |s % vinyl Preservatives, |QS skin actives, | etc. For Comparative Examples 1 to 5, a similar process was followed as for the Inventive Examples. The comparative examples exhibited properties surprisingly inferior to the inventive examples. Comparative example | exhibited a plaster-like appearance, high opacity, and a dull appearance. Comparative example 2 exhibited high opacity, a dull appearance, and slow breaking upon spreading. Comparative example 3 exhibited slow breaking upon spreading and a livid appearance. Comparative example 4 exhibited acceptable tactile properties, but when additional color pigments were substituted for opacifying pigments, the sample provided low color intensity, i.e., an undesirable whitish cast was visible on the skin when the product was used as a concealer. Comparative example 5 also exhibited a whitish cast that became considerably more pronounced when the same formula had replaced all of the titanium dioxide with a color pigment (27% iron oxide, 0% titanium dioxide).The foregoing description illustrates and describes the disclosure. Furthermore, the disclosure only shows and describes the preferred embodiments, but as mentioned above, it is to be understood that it may be used in various other combinations, modifications and environments and that it may undergo changes or modifications within the scope of the inventive concepts as expressed herein, consistent with the above teachings and / or the skill or knowledge of the relevant art.The embodiments described herein are further intended to explain the best modes known to the applicant and to enable others skilled in the art to utilize the disclosure in such embodiments, or others, and with various modifications required by the particular applications or uses thereof; accordingly, the description is not intended to limit the invention to the form disclosed herein. The appended claims are also intended to be construed to include other embodiments.

Claims

Claims

1. Composition, comprising: at least about 25% by weight of one or more oils; from 0.5% by weight to about 4% by weight of one or more fillers, wherein the one or more fillers comprise aerogel silica, borosilicate, swelling clay and combinations thereof ciset at least about 25% by weight of one or more pigments, in which the composition is substantially free of water.

2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the composition is substantially free from selected charges in the group consisting of micas, perlite, talc, oxychloride bismuth and boron nitride, and combinations thereof.

3. A composition according to any preceding claim, wherein the composition has a combined concentration of lipids and of inorganic particles of at least about 60% by weight.

4. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises from about 25% by weight to about 70% by weight of lipids and in which the composition comprises from about 15% by weight to about 60% by weight of inorganic particles.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which lipids and inorganic particles are present in a weight ratio of lipids to inorganic particles which is approximately 1:2 to about 21.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the one or more pigments comprise at least one color pigment, and wherein the at least one color pigment is present in the composition in a concentration by weight of approximately 10% to about 30%.

7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the one or more pigments comprise at least one pigment colored, and in which the at least one color pigment is present in the composition in a concentration by weight of at least about 5%.

8. A composition according to any preceding claim. further comprising at least one wax and at least one pasty compound.

9. A composition according to any preceding claim. further comprising from about 10% by weight to about 30% by weight of an unsaturated aliphatic tackifier having a molecular weight average in weight less than about 10,000 daltons.

10. Method for concealing imperfections on a keratinous substrate comprising the topical application of the composition according to one any of the preceding claims to select imperfections- tioned on the keratinous substrate.