Cosmetic use of a lipophilic extract of lavender

Abstract

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of a lipophilic lavender extract as a cosmetic agent to protect colored hair, in particular to preserve the color and / or structure of colored hair

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic use of a lipophilic lavender extract technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic active ingredients, and more particularly to cosmetic agents intended for colored hair.

[0002] TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

[0003] Hairs are terminal hairs composed of a hair shaft and a root. The root is located at the base of the hair follicle in the dermis. The hair follicle provides nourishment and protection to the hair fiber and is associated with the sebaceous gland responsible for sebum production.

[0004] The hair shaft (also called the hair fiber) corresponds to the visible part of the hair. The hair shaft has a concentric structure comprising three layers:

[0005] - The pith or medullary canal constitutes the central part of the stem; it is composed of an amorphous, soft and greasy substance;

[0006] - The cortex is the intermediate layer and is the main constituent of the hair. The The cortex is responsible for the mechanical properties of the hair. The cortex is also composed of keratin, and its cells are held together by an intercellular cement rich in proteins and lipids. It is composed of macrofibrils, themselves composed of microfibrils containing the helical chains of keratin, and

[0007] - The cuticle, which is a thin protective layer enveloping the cortex, is also very keratinized

[0008] composed of scale-like cells that overlap each other.

[0009] Keratin is the most abundant protein in hair and is made up of eighteen amino acids, including cysteine, which plays a key structural role by forming disulfide points between neighboring cysteines.

[0010] The natural color of hair is due to the presence of pigments called melanin. Melanin is produced by melanocytes in the hair follicle and is then absorbed by keratinocytes, cells present in the epidermis that produce keratin, while the hair is forming. There are two types of melanin: eumelanin and pheomelanin (or pheomelanin). The proportions of these two melanins determine the natural color of the hair (Pelletier et al., L'Actualité Chimique, December 2011, No. 358). When melanocytes no longer produce melanin, gray hair appears.

[0011] Hair coloring has become increasingly popular in recent years for both women and men, to conceal graying hair or to improve or modify its appearance.

[0012] Although progress has been made, coloring techniques, particularly so-called "permanent" or "oxidative" coloring, tend to weaken or even alter the structure of the hair, making it more vulnerable to external aggressions or stresses, such as sun exposure, but also to certain cosmetic treatments, especially those containing surfactants or wetting agents. The hair is damaged: it becomes drier, more brittle, thinner, duller, and split ends form.

[0013] Furthermore, "fading" (i.e., lightening or alteration of the color) over time remains a major problem with artificial hair coloring. This phenomenon results primarily from frequent washing of the hair with hair products containing surfactants and can be exacerbated by certain external factors such as exposure to sunlight.

[0014] There is currently a need for new cosmetic agents capable of protecting colored hair. Summary of the invention

[0015] The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a lipophilic lavender extract as a protective agent for colored hair. The lipophilic lavender extract can be used, in particular, as a protective agent against the lightening of colored hair and / or as a protective agent against the degradation of the protein structure of colored hair. The lipophilic lavender extract can be used as a protective agent to prevent or mitigate one or more non-pathological alterations caused by environmental stress or a cosmetic hair treatment.Non-pathological alterations include, but are not limited to, thinning or loss of thickness of colored hair, roughness or dryness of colored hair, colored hair less resistant to mechanical stress, including brittle or splitting colored hair, dull or faded colored hair, unruly or difficult-to-style colored hair, and combinations thereof. In one particular embodiment, the invention relates to the use of a lipophilic lavender extract as an agent to protect colored hair against the effects of exposure to solar radiation.

[0016] The lipophilic extract of lavender can be obtained from the stems, flowers and / or flowering tops of Lavandula angustafolia. In some embodiments, the lipophilic extract of lavender is obtained by a process comprising an extraction step of lavender plant material, preferably the flowering tops of lavender, with ethyl acetate followed by a wax removal step.

[0017] In certain embodiments, the lipophilic lavender extract is characterized in that it comprises 18% to 35% linalool, 25% to 35% linalyl acetate, 1% to 2% borneol, 5% to 9% herniarin, and 5% to 10% coumarin, the percentages being expressed relative to the total volatile content of the extract. Preferably, the above-mentioned percentages correspond to the percentage of the peak area (or peaks) corresponding to the chemical compound (or compounds) of interest relative to the total peak area of ​​the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis, preferably performed under the conditions described in Example 2.

[0018] The lipophilic extract of lavender may further comprise from 8% to 18% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds, for example from 10% to 15% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds or from 11.5% to 13.5% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds.

[0019] In the uses according to the Invention, the lipophilic extract of lavender is typically present as a cosmetic active agent in a hair product. The hair product may be chosen from the group consisting of a shampoo, including a dry or solid shampoo, a conditioner, a hair balm, a hair oil, a hair serum, a hairspray, a hair setting gel, a hair spray, a perm product, and an antiparasitic hair product.

[0020] According to a further aspect, the Invention relates to a hair product for colored hair comprising a lipophilic extract of lavender, for example, as defined above, and at least one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0021] The hair product according to the Invention may comprise from 0.001% to 5.0% by weight of the lipophilic extract of lavender. The hair product according to the Invention may be selected from the group consisting of a shampoo, including a dry or solid shampoo, a conditioner, a hair balm, a hair oil, a hair serum, a hairspray, a hair setting gel, a hair spray, a perm product, and an antiparasitic hair product.

[0022] According to a further aspect, the Invention relates to a cosmetic process for preserving the color and / or structure of colored hair comprising the application to colored hair of the lipophilic extract of lavender as defined above or the hair product as defined above. FIGURES

[0023] [Fig.1] shows the measurement results of the constant L* obtained in Example 3.

[0024] [Fig.2] and [Fig.3] show the measurement results of the degradation of the bridges di sulfides obtained in Example 3.

[0025] Figures [Fig.4] and [Fig.5] show the measurement results of tryptophan degradation obtained in Example 3.

[0026] Statistical test: Student's t-distribution - *** = p < 0.001 ** = p < 0.01 * = p < 0.05 Description of the implementation methods

[0027] Colouring processes weaken the hair, making it much more vulnerable to external aggressions, particularly to hair treatments such as shampoos, and to UV exposure.

[0028] The Applicant has shown that a lipophilic extract of lavender has protective effects on colored hair. More specifically, through tests measuring "disulfide bond breaking" and "tryptophan degradation," the Applicant has shown that a hair product containing a lipophilic extract of lavender is able to protect artificially colored hair by preventing alterations to its protein structure significantly compared to control experiments (Example 3). Furthermore, the Applicant has shown that a lipophilic extract of lavender is able to prevent hair color fading (Example 3).

[0029] Thus, the Invention relates to the use of a lipophilic extract of lavender, as a cosmetic agent in a hair product intended for colored hair.

[0030] Lipophilic lavender extract can be used in particular as a cosmetic agent to strengthen or protect colored hair, and / or as a color-protecting agent and / or as an agent to preserve the protein structure of colored hair.

[0031] According to a particular aspect, the lipophilic extract of lavender can be used in particular as a cosmetic agent to protect colored hair against the effects of sun exposure, in particular to protect its color and protein structure against non-pathological alterations caused by exposure of colored hair to the sun.

[0032] According to a further aspect, the Invention also relates to a hair product for coloured hair comprising a lipophilic extract of lavender.

[0033] According to an additional aspect, the invention relates to a method for treating colored hair, in particular for protecting colored hair and / or for preserving the color or structure of colored hair, comprising the application of a lipophilic lavender extract, or a hair product containing it, to the hair. The lipophilic lavender extract

[0034] The Invention relates to a lipophilic extract of lavender for its use as a cosmetic agent for the treatment of colored hair.

[0035] The lipophilic extract is typically obtained from one or more aerial parts of the plant, such as the stems, flowers, and flowering tops of lavender. The plant material may be fresh (i.e., freshly picked), dried, or frozen, preferably fresh.

[0036] In the context of the present invention, the term "lavender" refers to plants of the genus Lavandula, which includes several species such as Lavandula angustifolia (also known as true lavender), Lavandula latifolia (also known as spike lavender), and Lavandula stoechas L. (also known as butterfly lavender), as well as Lavandula pedunculata, Lavandula dentata, and Lavandula multifida. The term "lavender" also encompasses hybrids derived from true lavender and spike lavender. These hybrids are known as "lavandin" and include Lavandula angustifolia Mill. x Lavandula latifolia Medik., Lavandula hybrida, and Lavandula x intermedia.

[0037] The Lavandula plant can be sourced from organic farming.

[0038] In some embodiments, lavender is not a lavandin.

[0039] In other embodiments, the lipophilic lavender extract is obtained from plants of Lavandula angustifolia, Lavandula latifolia, Lavandula stoechas L. and their mixtures, preferably Lavandula angustifolia.

[0040] The lipophilic extract according to the Invention can be obtained by any type of process known to those skilled in the art such as hydrodistillation, supercritical fluid extraction, in particular by CO2, or extraction using an organic solvent such as cycloalkanes or alkanes comprising 4 to 7 carbon atoms such as hexane.

[0041] In its search for more environmentally friendly and eco-responsible extraction methods, the Applicant sought a bio-based solvent that could serve as an alternative to petrochemical-derived solvents used in perfumery or cosmetics. The Applicant identified ethyl acetate as a suitable alternative, enabling the production of a lipophilic lavender extract with improved properties. Example 1 presents an example of the implementation of this solvent for the preparation of a lipophilic lavender extract suitable for the implementation of the Invention.

[0042] Thus, in certain embodiments, the lipophilic extract of lavender is obtained by a process comprising a step of extraction of the plant material using ethyl acetate.

[0043] The ethyl acetate extraction step can, in addition, be followed by a step for removing vegetable waxes.

[0044] In certain embodiments, the lipophilic lavender extract is obtained by a process comprising:

[0045] a) a step of extracting the plant material with a volatile organic solvent, preferably ethyl acetate, so as to obtain a primary extract, and

[0046] b) a step of removing waxes present in the primary extract so as to obtain the lipophilic lavender extract.

[0047] The organic solvent used in step a) is preferably ethyl acetate, preferably a bio-based ethyl acetate.

[0048] The term "bio-based ethyl acetate" means ethyl acetate obtained from natural raw materials. Bio-based ethyl acetate may, in particular, be obtained from bioethanol. Bioethanol may be obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis of starch from cereals, particularly maize, or by fermentation of plants containing sucrose.

[0049] Step a) of extraction is typically carried out by macerating the plant material in ethyl acetate within an extractor. The volume of ethyl acetate to be used depends on the raw material to be extracted and the extractor used. A sufficient volume of solvent is used to cover the plant material. The volume of ethyl acetate is generally in the range of 1 to 20 L / kg of raw material per maceration cycle. Maceration is typically carried out at a temperature between 10°C and 50°C, preferably from 15°C to 40°C.

[0050] The maceration time of the plant material in ethyl acetate is generally between 1 min and 3 h. The Applicant observed that a maceration time exceeding 30 min improves the process yield. Thus, in some embodiments, the step of macerating the plant material in ethyl acetate lasts at least 35 min, preferably from 35 min to 120 min.

[0051] After maceration, the plant material is decanted and the liquid phase is collected. The maceration step can be repeated, typically 1, 2, or 3 times, to optimize the extraction yield. Thus, after the first maceration, the plant material can be collected and macerated again in ethyl acetate. After maceration, the liquid phase is collected and combined with the liquid phase collected after the first maceration. The maceration time can be shorter in the additional maceration step(s), but preferably remains at least 35 minutes.

[0052] The organic solvent is removed from the liquid phase obtained in step a) by evaporation (for example, by concentration under vacuum) so as to obtain the primary extract. The primary extract is typically in a paste or solid form rich in odor molecules and waxes.

[0053] Step b) aims to remove the waxes present in the primary extract in order to obtain the lipophilic lavender extract, which can also be referred to here as the "absolute". Step b) can also be used to remove additional nonpolar compounds other than waxes. Various strategies can be used to remove the waxes and any other nonpolar compounds to be removed, i.e., to obtain the extract on one hand and the waxes on the other, such as supercritical fluid extraction, particularly supercritical CO2 extraction, molecular distillation, or by Cold precipitation of waxes in alcohol. In this latter case, we take advantage of the difference in solubility of vegetable waxes when hot and cold in alcohol.

[0054] Thus, in step b), the extract obtained from step a) can be reconstituted in an alcohol (e.g., ethanol) or a hydroalcoholic solution standardized to at least 90% alcohol (e.g., EtOH 90°). The resulting solution is homogenized, if necessary under heat (e.g., at a temperature below 60°C), and then cooled to precipitate the waxes. The waxes can be removed by filtration. The lipophilic lavender extract is then obtained from the collected filtrate by removing the alcohol, for example, by vacuum concentration.

[0055] The process for preparing the lipophilic extract according to the invention may include one or more additional steps to those previously mentioned. These may include steps for processing the starting plant material by washing, grinding, including cryo-grinding, drying, freeze-drying, sieving, freezing, and / or thawing. They may also include one or more additional purification steps carried out after steps a) and b), such as a liquid-liquid extraction, a solid-liquid extraction, filtration (e.g., through a suitable absorbent), or distillation.

[0056] In addition, as indicated above, steps a) and / or b) can be repeated as needed, for example to increase yield or improve wax removal.

[0057] In the context of the present Invention, the term "plant material" refers to one or more aerial parts of lavender, preferably the stems, flowers, and / or flowering tops. The plant material may have undergone one or more treatments prior to the extraction step, such as grinding, drying, freeze-drying, freezing, or cryo-grinding. Preferably, the plant material is fresh, i.e., freshly picked.

[0058] In a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention is obtained from a plant material composed of fresh stems, flowers and / or flowering tops of Lavandula angustifolia, preferably by a process involving a maceration step of said plant material in ethyl acetate.

[0059] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, the Applicant is of the opinion that the implementation of such a process makes it possible to obtain a lipophilic extract of lavender particularly suitable for use as a cosmetic agent for colored hair.

[0060] Such an extraction process makes it possible to obtain a lipophilic extract of lavender having a composition distinct from that of extracts which can be obtained by conventional processes such as hydrodistillation or the preparation of absolute by hexane extraction.

[0061] In particular, the ethyl acetate extraction process makes it possible to obtain a lipophilic lavender extract exhibiting a quantitative signature in volatile molecules by- particular.

[0062] In a particular mode, the lipophilic lavender extract is characterized in that it comprises at most 70% linalool and linalyl acetate and at least 10% coumarin and herniarin, the percentages being expressed in relation to the total content of volatile compounds present in the extract.

[0063] In another particular embodiment, the lipophilic lavender extract is characterized in that it comprises 18% to 35% linalool, 25% to 35% linalyl acetate, 1% to 2% borneol, 5% to 9% herniarin, and 5% to 10% coumarin, the percentages being expressed relative to the total volatile content of the extract. Preferably, the above-mentioned percentages correspond to the percentage of peak area (or peaks) corresponding to the chemical compound (or compounds) of interest relative to the total peak area of ​​the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis, preferably carried out under the conditions described in Example 2.

[0064] In an additional embodiment, the extract according to the invention comprises from 8% to 18% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds, for example, from 10% to 15% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds or from 11.5% to 13.5% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds. In a further embodiment, the extract may comprise 1.0 to 4.0 g / kg of sterols. The major sterol present in the extract is beta-sitosterol. Beta-sitosterol may represent more than 70% by weight of the sterols present in the extract. For example, the extract according to the invention may comprise from 2.0 to 3.0 g of sterol per kg of extract, with beta-sitosterol representing at least 75% by weight of the sterols present in the extract.

[0065] In an additional embodiment, the extract may also comprise 0.5 to 5% fatty acids expressed as methyl ester equivalents. The fatty acids present in the extract comprise 42% to 52% by weight of saturated fatty acids, 8% to 18% by weight of monounsaturated fatty acids, and 34% to 44% by weight of polyunsaturated fatty acids. By way of example, the fatty acids present in the extract may comprise 45% to 49% saturated fatty acids, 11% to 15% monounsaturated fatty acids, and 37% to 41% polyunsaturated fatty acids, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total amount of fatty acids present in the extract. The unsaturated fatty acids include, in particular, omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids.

[0066] Use, cosmetic method and composition according to the invention

[0067] The invention relates to the cosmetic use of a lipophilic extract of lavender, preferably as described above, as a cosmetic agent for the treatment of colored hair.

[0068] The term “colored hair” means hair that has undergone a cosmetic treatment intended to change its natural color. In other words, the expression “hair "Colored" is synonymous with "artificially colored hair." Hair may have undergone any type of coloring, including temporary, semi-permanent, or permanent coloring (also called oxidative coloring).

[0069] In a particular embodiment, the hair has been colored by a permanent coloring.

[0070] Permanent hair coloring is the most widely used today. This type of coloring is based on the use of so-called oxidative dyes comprising bases and couplers that polymerize and bind to the hair's keratin under the action of an oxidizing agent. The dyes are formulated in an alkaline cosmetic base, generally ammonia-based, to allow the cuticle scales to open and thus the dyes to penetrate the hair structure. The oxidizing agent (typically hydrogen peroxide) is added to the dyes at the time of application (Pelletier et al., supra).

[0071] In some embodiments, the colored hair was obtained by a process comprising a bleaching step, for example using a solution comprising hydrogen peroxide, followed by a coloring step, preferably permanent coloring.

[0072] In the context of the present invention, "colored hair" refers to "healthy" hair, that is, hair not affected by any pathology. "Colored hair" may have turned white (i.e., be artificially colored white hair), whitening (also called canities) being due to a normal aging process. Hair coloring may therefore have been carried out to change the natural hair color and / or to conceal white hair.

[0073] The coloring process may have damaged or sensitized the hair. In other words, colored hair may be less resistant, more vulnerable to external factors, particularly UV exposure.

[0074] Thus, the Invention relates to the use of a lipophilic extract of lavender as a cosmetic agent to protect colored hair.

[0075] Lipophilic lavender extract can be used in particular on colored, damaged or sensitized hair.

[0076] The term “active agent with cosmetic effect, cosmetic agent or agent with cosmetic effect” means a compound capable of exerting at least one cosmetic effect on hair, preferably colored hair.

[0077] The term “cosmetic effect” means any non-therapeutic effect intended to modify and / or improve the visual appearance, sensory and / or mechanical properties of artificially colored hair, to strengthen it and to make it less vulnerable to non-pathological alterations caused, for example, by external factors. The cosmetic use according to the invention does not include the prevention or treatment of pathologies, in particular pathologies affecting the scalp.

[0078] In a particular embodiment, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention is used as a cosmetic agent to strengthen or protect colored hair.

[0079] The term "strengthening colored hair" means making colored hair less sensitive and more resistant to non-pathological alterations induced by cosmetic treatment and / or by environmental aggression or stress.

[0080] Making "colored hair more resistant" means reducing the severity, preventing the occurrence, or reducing the risk of occurrence of one or more non-pathological alterations in colored hair.

[0081] Protecting "colored hair" means reducing the severity, preventing the occurrence, or reducing the risk of occurrence of one or more non-pathological alterations in colored hair.

[0082] Non-pathological alterations include, but are not limited to:

[0083] - thinning or loss of thickness of colored hair,

[0084] - flatter, color-treated hair, without volume

[0085] - dryness of colored hair,

[0086] - a rough, less soft, less silky colored hair

[0087] - a colored hair less resistant to mechanical stresses, in particular a brittle or split-ended hair

[0088] - dull, less shiny or lackluster colored hair

[0089] - unruly, difficult-to-style colored hair,

[0090] and their combinations.

[0091] The term “external factor” or “environmental aggression or stress” refers to the exposure of hair to situations that can cause non-pathological damage, such as sun exposure, sea bathing, bathing in chlorinated water (e.g., in a swimming pool), pollution, wind, sudden temperature changes, tobacco smoke, and exposure to particles such as sand or dust. Exposure to solar radiation is a preferred external factor.

[0092] The term "hair treatment" or "cosmetic treatment" means any type of cosmetic treatment of colored hair, including physical treatments, in particular mechanical stresses such as drying, combing, brushing, straightening, curling (e.g., by using a curling iron, straightener, hair dryer, brushing with a brush or comb), or treatments in which a product is applied to the hair, this product being either rinsed or not rinsed, used alone or in combination. Typically, this may involve frequent washing with a Shampoo and / or conditioner containing a surfactant, or the application of a leave-in product such as lotion, hairspray, oil, detangler, styling gel, or any other hair product, including those used for perms or antiparasitic products such as anti-lice treatments. The cosmetic product may, in particular, include an agent selected from among an alkali-acting agent, an oxidizing agent, a surfactant, and combinations thereof.

[0093] In some embodiments, the lipophilic extract of lavender is used to protect colored hair against the effects of cosmetic treatment or environmental stress or aggression such as UV exposure.

[0094] In other embodiments, the lipophilic extract of lavender is used to strengthen or increase the resistance of colored hair to cosmetic treatment and / or to environmental stress or aggression such as UV exposure.

[0095] In an additional aspect, the lipophilic extract of lavender is used to protect the visual, sensory and / or mechanical properties of colored hair, in particular against non-pathological alterations caused by cosmetic treatment and / or environmental aggression, such as exposure to solar radiation.

[0096] In a particular embodiment, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention is used to preserve the structure, preferably the protein structure of colored hair.

[0097] More specifically, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention can be used to protect the protein structure of colored hair, particularly when colored hair is subjected to hair treatments or external aggressions or stresses such as those mentioned above, preferably sun exposure.

[0098] In a particular embodiment, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention is used to protect, prevent, or reduce the degradation of keratin in colored hair. In particular, the lipophilic lavender extract can be used to prevent the degradation of tryptophan and disulfide bonds in the keratin of colored hair.

[0099] The Applicant has also shown that the lipophilic extract of lavender according to the invention makes it possible to protect colored hair against lightening of artificial color.

[0100] Thus, in a further aspect, the lipophilic extract of lavender according to the invention is used as a cosmetic agent to preserve or stabilize the artificial color of colored hair.

[0101] In particular, the lipophilic extract of lavender according to the invention can be used to inhibit, reduce or prevent alteration, and in particular lightening of the artificial color of colored hair.

[0102] The term "alteration of the artificial color of colored hair" means any modification Alteration of the shade of colored hair, particularly the lightening of the initial artificial color. Alteration of the artificial color can be caused by cosmetic hair treatments, including frequent washing with surfactant-based shampoos, or by environmental aggression or stress such as exposure to sunlight, chlorinated water, and / or seawater.

[0103] "Frequent" washing means washing the hair at least once a week.

[0104] According to a particular aspect, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention is used as an agent to preserve the color of colored hair subjected to a hair treatment including a surfactant, in particular ionic or cationic, and / or to sun exposure.

[0105] Lipophilic lavender extract can be applied directly to the hair or formulated beforehand within a composition, in particular a hair cosmetic composition, prior to application.

[0106] Thus, according to a further aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition intended for use on colored hair. The cosmetic composition according to the invention is typically in the form of a hair product. The hair product according to the invention generally comprises from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.001% to 5%, for example, from about 0.002% to 1.0% by weight of lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention. The hair product further comprises one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, typically from 50% to 99.9999% by weight, preferably from 60% to 99.999%, for example, from 70% to 99.998% by weight, the percentages referring to the total weight of the cosmetic product.

[0107] The cosmetically acceptable excipient(s) present in the hair product according to the invention may be selected from vehicles such as an aqueous solution, demineralized water, mineral, thermal or floral water, solvents, in particular lower alcohols including ethanol, isopropanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol, pentylene glycol and propylene glycol, dispersing agents, gelling or thickening agents, emollients, vectorizing agents such as phospholipids, preservatives, odor absorbers, pH regulating or neutralizing agents, cleansing agents or surfactants, including anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, sequestering agents, foam stabilizers, foaming agents, humectants such as glycerin or sorbitol, the wetting agents, dispersing agents, perfumes,pigments and other coloring agents, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, softening agents, oily agents such as oils or fats of vegetable origin such as essential oils, silicone oils, fatty alcohol esters, fixing or plasticizing agents and / or others, substances commonly used in formulations in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical fields.

[0108] The hair product according to the invention may further optionally include one or more cosmetic active agents, typically between 0.0001% and 10.0% by weight of one or more cosmetic active agents. These may include anti-dandruff agents such as essential oils of cinnamon, lemongrass or lemon myrtle, UV filters, soothing agents such as essential oils of sandalwood, vetiver, ylang-ylang, turmeric, lavandin, Timur pepper, black pepper, Sichuan pepper, palmarosa, immortelle, ginger or bay, geranium, olibanum, mint or eucalyptus, sebum-regulating agents such as essential oils or extracts of ylang ylang, hops, pink pepper or vetiver, anti-hair loss agents, moisturizing agents, smoothing agents, and combinations thereof.

[0109] The cosmetic product according to the invention may thus comprise:

[0110] - from 0.0001% to 10%, preferably from 0.001% to 5%, for example about 0.002% at 1.0% of the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention,

[0111] - from 50% to 99.9999%, preferably from 80% to 99.999% of one or more excipients cosmetically acceptable, and

[0112] - optionally from 0.0001% to 10% of one or more additional active cosmetic agents tionals.

[0113] The cosmetic product may be in any form suitable for topical application to the hair. The cosmetic product may be in the form of aqueous solutions, dispersions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions or multiple emulsions (triple: W / O / W or W / O / O), nanoemulsions, in particular W / O nanoemulsions, the droplet size of which is less than 100nm, aqueous gels, dispersions, powders, lacquers, aerosols, sprays, oils, serums, foams, this list not being exhaustive.

[0114] The hair product may be a rinse-off or leave-on product.

[0115] The cosmetic product may be chosen, in particular, from a shampoo including a dry or solid shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair balm, a hair cream, a hair oil, a hair serum, a hairspray, a fixing gel, a hair spray, a perm product, a sun protection spray, a treatment oil, a mousse, and an antiparasitic product, this list not being exhaustive.

[0116] Preferably, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the Invention is present in a shampoo or conditioner (preferably containing a surfactant), or in a lotion, preferably intended for colored hair.

[0117] An additional object according to the invention is a cosmetic treatment process colored hair including the application of lipophilic extract of lavandin or a hair product containing it to the hair.

[0118] The intended cosmetic effect is any one of the cosmetic effects described above in connection with the cosmetic uses according to the invention.

[0119] In the cosmetic methods and uses according to the invention, the dose to be administered and the frequency of administration of the extract according to the invention vary according to the desired cosmetic effect, the characteristics of the individual, in particular his sex, his age and his hair type.

[0120] Typically, the extract can be applied at least once every two weeks, at least once a week, or even 2 to 3 times a week and even daily,

[0121] As a further example, the lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention can be applied at least once a week to colored hair at the time of or after washing.

[0122] The treatments described above may last several weeks, or even several months.

[0123] The extract or cosmetic product according to the invention is applied to the hair without rinsing or for a few seconds, for example at least 30 seconds before rinsing.

[0124] Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will become apparent from the following examples, which are to be considered illustrative and in no way limiting. EXAMPLES

[0125] Example 1: Preparation of a lipophilic extract of lavender by extraction with ethyl acetate

[0126] Fresh Lavandula angustifolia flowering tops were macerated in ethyl acetate at a temperature between 15°C and 40°C for 45 min in an extractor. A sufficient volume of ethyl acetate was used to completely cover the raw material. The mixture was decanted, and the liquid phase and plant material were separated. The liquid phase was collected, and the plant material was macerated in ethyl acetate two further times, for 35 min and then 15 min. The liquid phases from the three macerations were combined, and the ethyl acetate was evaporated to obtain the primary extract.

[0127] The primary extract was then reconstituted in ethanol. The mixture was homogenized, slightly heated, and then cooled to precipitate the waxes. The mixture was filtered. The filtrate was collected. The waxes were also recovered and reconstituted in ethanol; the mixture was solubilized under heat and then cooled to precipitate the waxes and filtered. The filtrate was collected, and the operation was repeated. The different filtrates were combined and then the solvent was evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain the lipophilic extract.

[0128] Example 2: Analysis of the extract according to Example 1

[0129] Analysis of volatile compounds

[0130] Different batches of extracts obtained according to the process of Example 1 were characterized by analysis by gas chromatography coupled with a flame ionization detector (GC / FID).

[0131] The analysis conditions are as follows: Agilent HP-1ms column (nonpolar, 100% dimethylpolysiloxane, 60 m x 250 pm x 0.25 pm), oven program: 60°C for 10 minutes then 2°C / minute up to 300°C and plateau for 20 minutes.

[0132] For each major compound present in the lipophilic lavender extract, the percentage indicated corresponds to the percentage of peak area corresponding to the chemical compound of interest relative to the total area of ​​peaks in the chromatogram obtained by GC / FID analysis.

[0133] The principal volatile compounds identified are linalool, linalyl acetate, borneol, hemianin, and coumarin. Analysis of the different batches yielded the following percentage ranges for these compounds:

[0134] Linalool: 18 to 35%

[0135] Linalyl acetate: 25 to 35%

[0136] Borneol: 1 to 2%

[0137] Hernianin: 5 to 9%

[0138] Coumarin: 5 to 10%

[0139] Analysis of non-volatile compounds

[0140] The analyses below were carried out on a batch of lipophilic lavender extract obtained according to the process of the example with the following reference methods:

[0141] -Determination of tocopherols and tocotrienols in vegetable oils and fats by high-performance liquid chromatography (NF EN ISO 9936)

[0142] -Determination of individual and total sterol content (NF EN ISO 12228 Part 1)

[0143] -Preparation and analysis by GC of fatty acid methyl esters (NF EN ISO 1296-2 and 12966-4)- Composition using correction factors

[0144] -Determination of unsaponifiable matter content (method by extraction with diethyl oxide (NF EN SISO 3596)

[0145] The extract comprises an unsaponifiable content of 12.5g per 100g of extract. The extract also comprises 2.1% fatty acids expressed as methyl ester equivalents, of which 48% are saturated fatty acids, 13% are monounsaturated fatty acids and 39% are polyunsaturated fatty acids, of which 27% are omega 3 and 11% are omega 6. The analyzed extract also comprises 2.8g of sterols per kg of product, of which 80% is beta-sitosterol.

[0146] Example 3: Evaluation of the protective properties of lipophilic lavender extract on colored hair

[0147] - Preparation of colored strands

[0148] The strands were washed with 10% sodium lauryl ether sulfate (INCI: Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate (SLES)) and then rinsed with water. They were then dried in a standardized environment (22 ± 2°C and 55 ± 5% relative humidity) for 24 hours. Some strands were kept as is and constitute the "neutral control," i.e., "uncolored."

[0149] The remaining strands underwent a hydrogen peroxide bleaching step: Hydrogen peroxide was applied, rubbed onto the hair for 5 minutes, then left for 30 minutes at 36°C in an oven before rinsing. Each strand was then washed with the 10% SLES solution and rinsed.

[0150] Once bleached, the strands were colored with a professional dye (red).

[0151] The color was applied to each strand, rubbed for 1 minute and then left to process for 30 minutes. The strands were then rinsed, detangled and dried for at least 16 hours in a standardized environment (22 ± 2°C and relative humidity of 55 ±5%).

[0152] The wicks were divided into the following groups:

[0153] Experiment 1: Rinsed products

[0154] -Control: untreated coloured highlights with shampoo (SHP) and conditioner (CDT)

[0155] - Invention: SHP / CDT + Lipophilic lavender extract: treatment with shampoo and conditioner containing 0.005% by weight of the lavender extract of example 1

[0156] - Placebo - SHP / CDT: treatment with shampoo and conditioner free of lavender extract from example 1

[0157] [Tables 1] Shampoo INCI Name Quantity (% by mass) Demineralized Water QSP100 Sodium Lauryl Ether Sulfate 14.30 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5.26 Dimethiconol (and) TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate 1.50 Glycol Distearate 1.00 Sodium Chloride 1.00 Sodium Hydroxide 4% 0.50 Sodium Benzoate 0.45 Carbomer 0.40 Citric Acid Anhydride 0.25 Guar Chloride Hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.10 Lipophilic Lavender Extract (replaced with water in the placebo group) 0.005 Disodium EDTA 0.05

[0158] [Tables2] Conditioner INCI Name Quantity (% by mass) Demineralized Water QSP100 Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol 6.00 Bis-Hydroxy / Methoxy Amodimethicone 3.00 Cetearyl Alcohol 2.00 Cetyl Alcohol 1.50 Panthenyl Ethyl Ether 1.00 Lipophilic Lavender Extract (replaced with water in the placebo group) 0.005 Panthenol 0.30 Citric Acid 30% 0.15 Methylisothiazolinone 0.10 Disodium EDTA 0.10

[0159] Experiment 2: lotion (not rinsed)

[0160] -Control: colored strands not treated with lotion

[0161] -Invention: Lotion + Lipophilic extract of lavender: treatment with lotion (non-rinsed) containing 0.005% by weight of the lavender extract of example 1

[0162] - Placebo - Lotion: treatment with lotion (not rinsed off) devoid of the extract of lavender from example 1

[0163] [Tables3] Lotion Name INCI Quantity (%) Ethanol 50.00 Demineralized water QSP 100 VP / VA Copolymer 6.00 Glycerin 0.30 Lipophilic lavender extract (replaced by water in the placebo group) 0.005

[0164] For experiment 1: the shampoo is applied, rubbed in for 1 minute then rinsed and The conditioner is applied for 2 minutes before being rinsed. The application is repeated before each UV exposure cycle.

[0165] For experiment 2: the lotion is applied and then rubbed in for 1 minute. The application is repeated and is done before each UV exposure cycle.

[0166] In each experiment, the treated wicks are exposed to UV with a "Q-Sun Xenon Test Chamber" UV solar radiation simulator by 8 cycles of 12h for a total of 96h of exposure representing 384h of actual solar exposure.

[0167] Results:

[0168] - Protective effect of lipophilic lavender extract on hair color colored:

[0169] The effect of the Extract according to the invention on the color of the highlights was evaluated by measuring the L* component with a BYK-GARDENER Sphere Gloss Spectro-Guide device. L* corresponds to lightness ranging from 0 (total absorption, black) to 100 (total reflection, white).

[0170] As a preliminary matter, the Applicant observed that the lightening after UV exposure is +4% for natural, uncolored hair versus +19% for colored hair. This result demonstrates that colored hair is more susceptible to discoloration upon UV exposure.

[0171] Colored strands prior to UV exposure exhibited a brightness of approximately 17.5. After 96 hours of UV exposure, L* increased significantly, illustrating a lightening of the color following UV exposure. The placebo SHP / CDT treatment accentuated the lightening effect induced by UV exposure. The lipophilic lavender extract protected colored hair from lightening compared to the placebo formulas. These results are illustrated in [Fig. 1].

[0172] - Protective effect of lipophilic lavender extract on the colored structure of colored hair

[0173] Under the effect of certain stresses, such as UV exposure, the disulfide bonds present at the level of hair proteins, particularly keratin, break down, resulting in a loss of hair integrity.

[0174] The breaking of disulfide bonds generates SO3- entities which can be quantified by FTIR-ATR (Fourier Transform Infrared with Total Reflectance Attenuation).

[0175] These IR spectra allow the degradation of protein chains to be quantified through the behavior of SO3 groups located in the 1040 cm1 band. The vibration of the C=O bonds of the amide groups is also studied in order to normalize the results by calculating an SO37C=O ratio.

[0176] The average area was calculated using the following equation:

[0177] [Math.l] (104torl] m»w»?ïë - —----------;—-----?.. z ---— ■^ire -average of the ama s? (ItaG an ! )

[0178] The experiments were carried out with a PerkinElmer instrument (Frontier model) with ATR cells (Pike Technologies) and ZnSe crystals. To analyze these vibration bands, a scan from 2000 to 800 cm¹ was performed.

[0179] Hair coloring sensitizes hair to the degradation of disulfide bonds. Natural, uncolored hair experiences an increase of approximately 46% in the average S=O / C=O area after UV exposure. The increase is more than 78% after UV exposure for colored hair.

[0180] Upon UV exposure, placebo treatments with SHP / CDT or lotion limit this degradation in colored hair. The addition of lipophilic lavender extract to the SHP / CDT and lotion treatments further limits the degradation of disulfide bonds (-18% and -15% compared to the placebo SHP / CDT and lotion groups, respectively). These results are illustrated in Figures 2 and 3.

[0181] The lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention protects colored hair from the degradation of disulfide bonds. The lavender extract therefore protects hair proteins from degradation caused by sun exposure.

[0182] Another method for quantifying protein structure degradation is based on measuring the fluorescence intensity emitted by tryptophan, one of the amino acids contained in hair proteins. The lower this value, the more degraded the proteins are. The tryptophan measurement test was performed by fluorescence spectroscopy using a HORRIBA FluoroMax 4® TCSPC instrument. The hair strands were placed in a fluorescence spectrometer at a 45° angle to the photomultiplier cell. The samples were subjected to excitation at 290 nm, while the fluorescence emitted at 340 nm was quantified. The excitation time for each wavelength was 0.5 seconds.

[0183] The percentage of tryptophan (DTip) degradation is evaluated as follows:

[0184] [Math.2] 100 '■ --------;--------' VuSKi

[0185] With I = intensity of tryptophan fluorescence per atomic unit

[0186] Hair coloring makes hair highly susceptible to tryptophan degradation. Natural, uncolored hair experiences a 31% decrease in fluorescence intensity versus 53% for colored hair after UV exposure. Treatments with SHP / CDT or with lotion on colored hair significantly limit this decrease in fluorescence (Figures 4 and 5). The addition of Lipophilic lavender extract further reduces the decrease in fluorescence (compared to SHP / CDT treatments or placebo lotion). The lipophilic lavender extract according to the invention protects colored hair from tryptophan degradation and thus prevents the degradation of its protein structure caused by exposure to UV radiation.

[0187] In conclusion, lipophilic lavender extract helps protect colored hair. Specifically, lipophilic lavender extract protects colored hair against discoloration and alteration of its protein structure caused by UV exposure.

[0188] Example 4: Examples of hair products incorporating the extract according to the invention

[0189] PROTECTIVE HAIR OIL

[0190] [Tables4] Chemical Name % by Weight Sweet Almond Oil 5.0 Argan Oil 5.0 Wheat Germ Oil 5.0 Lipophilic Lavender Extract from Example 1 0.1 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate 20.0 Dimethiconol / Cyclosiloxane 40.0 Cyclopentasiloxane 24.4 Fragrance 0.5

[0191] HAIR SPRAY

[0192] [Tables5] Chemical Name % by Weight Water QSP 100 Ethanol 20.00 Polyquaternium-10 0.50 Lipophilic Extract of Lavender (Example 1) 0.15

[0193] SHAMPOO

[0194] [Tableauxô] Chemical Name % by Weight Demineralized Water QSP100 Sodium Laureth Sulfate 12.00 Cocamidopropyl Betaine 5.00 Sodium Chloride 1.00 Sodium Hydroxide 4% 0.50 Sodium Benzoate 0.45 Carbomer 0.40 Anhydrous Citric Acid 0.25 Guar Chloride Hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.10 Lipophilic Lavender Extract of Example 1 0.15 Disodium EDTA 0.05

Claims

Demands

1. Cosmetic use of a lipophilic extract of lavender as a protective agent for colored hair, wherein the lipophilic extract of lavender is obtained from stems, flowers and / or flowering tops of Lavandula angustifolia by ethyl acetate extraction and comprises 18% to 35% linalool, 25% to 35% linalyl acetate, 1% to 2% borneol, 5% to 9% herniarin and 5% to 10% coumarin, the percentages being expressed as a percentage of the total volatile content in the extract.

2. Use according to claim 1, wherein the lipophilic lavender extract comprises 8% to 18% by weight of unsaponifiable compounds.

3. Use according to claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the lipophilic extract of lavender is obtained by a process comprising an extraction step of stems, flowers and / or flowering tops of Lavandula angustifolia, preferably the flowering tops of Lavandula angustifolia, with ethyl acetate followed by a wax removal step.

4. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the lipophilic extract of lavender is used as a color-protecting agent against lightening of colored hair.

5. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the lipophilic extract of lavender is used as a protective agent against the degradation of the protein structure of colored hair.

6. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the lipophilic extract of lavender is used as a protective agent to prevent or mitigate one or more non-pathological alterations caused by environmental stress or cosmetic hair treatment.

7. Cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the lipophilic extract of lavender is used as an agent to protect colored hair against the effects of exposure to solar radiation.

8. Cosmetic use according to claim 6 or 7, wherein the non-pathological alteration(s) are selected from thinning or loss of thickness of colored hair, roughness or dryness of colored hair, colored hair less resistant to mechanical constraints, including brittle or split colored hair, dull or faded colored hair, unruly or difficult-to-style colored hair, and combinations thereof.

9. Use according to any one of claims 1 to 8 wherein the lipophilic extract of lavender is present as a cosmetic active agent in a hair product.

10. Use according to claim 9, wherein the hair product is selected from the group consisting of a shampoo including a dry or solid shampoo, a conditioner, a hair balm, a hair oil, a hair serum, a hair lacquer, a hair fixing gel, a hair spray, a perm product and an antiparasitic hair product.

11. Hair product for coloured hair comprising a lipophilic lavender extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3 and at least one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients.

12. Hair product for colored hair according to claim 11, characterized in that it comprises from 0.001% to 5.0% by weight of the lipophilic extract of lavender.

13. Hair product according to any one of claims 11 and 12 characterized in that it is selected from the group consisting of a shampoo including a dry or solid shampoo, a conditioner, a hair balm, a hair oil, a hair serum, a hair lacquer, a hair fixing gel, a hair spray, a perm product and an antiparasitic hair product.

14. A cosmetic process for preserving the color and / or structure of colored hair comprising applying to colored hair the lipophilic extract of lavender as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3 or the hair product according to claims 11 to 13.

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