Anhydrous cosmetic composition, including oil and lamellar minerals, and methods of use

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COSMETIC COMPOSITION, INCLUDING OIL AND LAMELAR MINERALS, AND METHODS OF USE. Method and composition for lip makeup. The method comprises the application of an anhydrous composition to the lips. The composition includes at least one non-volatile silicone oil; at least one volatile oil; at least one film-forming agent; at least one colorant; at least one lamellar mineral; and a mattifying agent. The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a weight ratio of non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil of approximately 4:1 to approximately 10:1. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Title of the invention: Anhydrous cosmetic composition, including oil and lamellar minerals, and processes USAGE FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition and a method for applying makeup and / or enhancing the appearance of a keratinous substrate such as lips and, in particular, for anhydrous compositions comprising a non-volatile silicone oil, a volatile oil, a film-forming agent, a colorant, and a lamellar mineral. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Cosmetic compositions used to apply makeup or improve the appearance of a user's skin are often required to provide various properties such as long wear, transfer resistance, a matte finish, and comfort. The inventors of the present invention recognized that it would be desirable to have a composition that provides certain sensory effects in conjunction with one or more of the above properties. In particular, the inventors of the present invention recognized that it would be desirable to provide enhanced tactile properties such as comfort and / or reduced stickiness, while still maintaining optical characteristics such as a matte finish and optical blur. Ideally, it would also be possible to obtain these properties with long wear / transfer resistance. However, formulating cosmetic products capable of offering these properties simultaneously can present certain challenges.Generally, one or more of the above properties cannot be maintained at sufficiently desirable levels.

[0003] The inventors of the present invention have discovered, surprisingly, that the use of particular oils and minerals in a particular arrangement provides a solution to the aforementioned disadvantages. BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0004] According to one embodiment of the present invention, there exists an anhydrous composition which has a long hold and is resistant to transfer, while offering superior comfort, a non-sticky feel and a unique sensory profile.

[0005] In certain aspects, a lip makeup process includes the application of an anhydrous composition to the lips. The composition comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil; at least one volatile oil; at least one film-forming agent; at least one colorant; at least one lamellar mineral; and a mattifying agent. The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a weight ratio of approximately 4:1. approximately 10:1.

[0006] In certain aspects, the anhydrous cosmetic lip composition is a liquid lip composition and comprises from approximately 40% by weight to approximately 80% by weight of an oil system comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil. It further comprises at least one silicone film-forming agent; at least one silicone elastomer; from approximately 6.5% to approximately 10% of one or more micas; and silica aerogel. The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil weight ratio of approximately 4:1 to approximately 10:1.

[0007] According to certain embodiments, the above process and / or composition is further characterized by one or more of the following attributes, alone or in combination: at least one lamellar mineral is present in a weight ratio of the lamellar mineral to the oil system of approximately 1:10 to approximately 1:5; at least one volatile oil is present in a concentration in the composition of approximately 4% by weight to approximately 10% (for example, 8%) by weight; the volatile oil is selected from one or more C8 to C16 alkanes; the mattifying agent comprises a silica aerogel, and the silica aerogel is present in a concentration in the composition of approximately 0.6% by weight to approximately 2% by weight; the colorant is present in a concentration in the composition of approximately 0.6% by weight to approximately 3.5% by weight; the composition contains less than approximately 4% wax;at least one non-volatile silicone oil has a weighted average viscosity of approximately 50 cps to approximately 100 cps, and / or the film-forming material comprises a siloxysilicate resin. DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0008] The expression "at least one" means one or more and this therefore includes individual components as well as mixtures / combinations.

[0009] Apart from the examples of operation, or unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients (e.g. concentrations, ratios, etc.) and / or reaction conditions should be understood as being modified in all cases by the term "approximately", meaning to within 10% or 15% of the number indicated (for example, "approximately 10%" means 8.5% to 11.5%, in particular from 9% to 11%, and "approximately 2%" means from 1.7% to 2.3%, in particular from 1.8% to 2.2%). and "approximately 2%" means 1.7% to 2.2%).

[0010] Similarly, for ratios, the modifier "approximately" means within 10% or 15% of the number. For example, approximately 4:1 means from 3.4:1 to 4.6:1, preferably from 3.6:1 to 4.4:1. As a person skilled in the art will readily understand, when the first ingredient in a ratio is less than the second, then the ratio can be expressed "inversely." For example, if a second ingredient, B, is present in A quantity or concentration 2.5 times greater than that of ingredient A can be identified as an A:B ratio of 1:2.5. "Approximately 1:10" means from 1:8.5 to 1:11.5, preferably from 1:9 to 1:11. Unless otherwise stated, all concentrations given as percentages are concentrations by weight and, unless otherwise stated, refer to the entire composition.

[0011] As used herein, the term “film-forming agent,” “film-forming polymer,” or “film-forming resin” refers to a polymer or resin that leaves a film on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, been absorbed into the substrate, and / or dissipated onto it. A “silicone film-forming agent” is a film-forming agent that comprises at least one silicone (a silicone atom bonded directly to an oxygen atom and also to a carbon atom, as in an organic fraction).

[0012] “Transfer resistance,” as used here, refers to the quality exhibited by compositions that are not readily removed by contact with another material, such as, for example, glass, clothing, or skin, for example, by eating or drinking. Transfer resistance can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating it. For example, the transfer resistance of a composition can be evaluated by a “kiss” test. The “kiss” test may involve applying the composition to a human keratinous material such as hair, skin, or lips, followed by rubbing a material, for example, a sheet of paper, against the hair, skin, or lips after a certain time has elapsed following the application, such as 2 minutes after application.Similarly, the transfer resistance of a composition can be assessed by the amount of product transferred from a wearer to any other substrate, such as the transfer from an individual's hair, skin, or lips to a collar when the garment is put on after a certain amount of time has elapsed since the composition was applied to the hair, skin, or lips. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (e.g., fabric or paper) can then be evaluated and compared. For example, a composition may be transfer-resistant if a majority of the product remains on the hair, skin, or lips. Furthermore, the amount transferred can be compared to that transferred by other compositions, such as commercially available compositions. In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, little or no composition is transferred to the substrate from the hair, skin, or lips.

[0013] "Long-lasting" compositions as used herein refer to compositions where the color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as visible to the naked eye, after a prolonged period of time. Longevity properties can be evaluated by any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, longevity can be assessed by a test involving the application of a composition to hair, skin, or lips and evaluating the color of the composition after an extended period. For instance, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to hair, skin, or lips, and these characteristics can then be re-evaluated and compared after some time. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated against other compositions, such as commercially available ones. For lip compositions, "longevity" generally means that the composition remains on the lips for at least 4 hours to approximately 24 hours and retains a rich color even after eating.

[0014] “Liquid” or “liquid cosmetic” or “liquid lipstick” or “composition "Liquid" refers to a composition having a fixed volume, which flows to cover the bottom and takes the shape of the part of the container it fills and is slightly compressible (as stated in General Chemistry, Fourth Edition 2005, p. 434). This is intended to exclude conventional stick-based lipsticks which are formed by molding and do not flow like a liquid would.

[0015] “Adhesiveness”, as used here, refers to the adhesion between two substances. For example, the greater the adhesiveness between two substances, the greater the adhesion between them. To quantify "adhesiveness," it is helpful to determine the "work of adhesion" as defined by IUPAC associated with the two substances. Generally speaking, the work of adhesion measures the amount of work required to separate two substances. Thus, the greater the work of adhesion associated with two substances, the greater the adhesion between them, which means that the greater the adhesiveness between the two substances.

[0016] The adhesion work and, consequently, the adhesiveness can be quantified using acceptable techniques and methods generally used to measure adhesion and that described later.

[0017] “Substituted” in this document means comprising at least one substitute. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as oxygen and nitrogen atoms, as well as functional groups, such as amine groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may be further substituted.

[0018] “Significantly exempt” as used here means that although it is preferable Even if no quantity of the specific component is present in the composition, it is possible that small quantities of it may be present in the compositions of the invention, provided that these quantities do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the packaging compositions of the invention. In certain embodiments, "substantially free" means less than approximately 2% of the identified ingredient, such as less than approximately 1%, or less than approximately 0.5% of the composition as a whole (or a particular component, if specified). "Anhydrous" means substantially free of water.

[0019] The numeric ranges comprise the evaluation criteria and are intended to include all combinations and subcombinations. For example, approximately 5%, 10%, or 15% to approximately 20%, 50%, or 60% may refer to approximately 5% to approximately 20%, approximately 5% to approximately 50%, approximately 5% to approximately 60%, approximately 10% to approximately 20%, approximately 10% to approximately 50%, approximately 10% to approximately 60%, approximately 15% to approximately 20%, approximately 15% to approximately 50%, or approximately 15% to approximately 60%. As used here, a report range is intended to include each specific report within the subranges and a combination of subranges between the given ranges.

[0020] The compositions and methods of the present invention may include, consist, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredient, component or limitation described herein or otherwise useful.

[0021] Film-forming

[0022] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention include at least one film-forming material and the total amount of at least one film-forming material may be present in the composition in a weight concentration of about 1% to about 25%, such as 1%, 2%, 4% or 5% to about 10%, 15%, 20% or 25%.

[0023] Examples of film-forming agents include silicone resins such as those described in US Patent No. 5,505,937, US Patent No. 5,911,974, US Patent No. 5,965,112, US Patent No. 5,985,298, US Patent No. 6,074,654, US Patent No. 6,780,422, US Patent No. 6,908,621, information from which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0024] In some embodiments, the composition includes a silicone resin selected from a siloxysilicate resin, a silsequioxane resin, and combinations thereof. In some embodiments, the silicone film-forming agent is a siloxysilicate resin. A non-limiting example of a siloxysilicate according to the present invention is trimethylsiloxysilicate, which can be represented by the following formula:

[0025] [(CH3)3SiO]x(SiO4 / 2)y

[0026] where x and y can, for example, range from 50 to 80. These siloxysilicates are commercially available from General Electric, Dow Corning, Wacker, Milliken, Siltech, Grant Industries, Momentive and Shin-Etsu Silicones under the trade name Resin MQ®.

[0027] According to another embodiment of the present invention, the compositions may contain silsesquioxane resins, comprising at least one polypropylene silsesquioxane film-forming resin.

[0028] Silsesquioxane resins are a specific type of silicone resin. The nomenclature for silicone resins is known in the art as "MDTQ" nomenclature, whereby a silicone resin is described according to the various monomeric siloxane units that make up the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" designates a different type of unit. When the film-forming resin is primarily composed of trifunctional units (or T-units), it is generally called silsesquioxane resin, which is described, for example, in US Patent 2006 / 0292096, incorporated herein by reference.

[0029] Examples of silsesquioxane resins that can be used in the present invention are alkyl silsesquioxane resins that are silsesquioxane homopolymers and / or copolymers having an average siloxane unit of general formula Rln SiO(4-n) / 2, in which each RI is a propyl group, in which more than 80 moles of RI represent a C3-CIO alkyl group, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, and more than 60 mol% of the copolymer comprises RlSiO3 / 2 motifs. Since each RI is a propyl group, these polymers are called poly-propylsilsesquioxane resins or "t-propyl" silsesquioxane resins. These resins and their manufacturing processes are described, for example, in U.S. documents 8,586,013, 2012 / 0301415, 2007 / 0093619 and 2006 / 0292096, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0030] A non-limiting example of a polypropylsilsesquioxane resin that can be used in the present invention is commercially available from Dow Corning as Dow Corning 670 Fluid or Dow Corning 680 Fluid. Dow Corning resins have the general formula RnSiO(4-n) / 2 where R is independently selected from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group comprising 3 carbon atoms, where more than 80 mol% of R are propyl groups, n is a value from 1.0 to 1.4, more than 60 mol% of the copolymer comprises RSiO3 / 2 motifs, and having a hydroxyl or alkoxy group content of 0.2 to 10 wt%, for example between 1 and 4 wt%, preferably between 5 and 10 wt%, and even better between 6 and 8 wt%. Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to about 30,000 and a Tg of about -5°C to about 5°C.

[0031] Another embodiment of the present invention illustrates the composition containing at least one siloxysilicate resin, at least one silsesquioxane resin and / or a mixture of these.

[0032] Polyorganosiloxane copolymer

[0033] Other silicone film-forming agents that can be used in the compositions of the present invention include polymers containing polyorganosiloxane. The polyorganosiloxane-containing polymer useful here is a polymer (homopolymer or copolymer) having at least one fragment that contains: at least one polyorganosiloxane group composed of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the fragment or in the form of a graft, and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. Non-limiting examples of polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers are disclosed, for example, in US Patent No. 8,945,525, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0034] Additional polymers containing polyorganosiloxane that may be used in the composition of the invention include those described in US documents 5,874,069, 5,919,441, 6,051,216 and 5,981,680, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0035] A preferred polymer containing polyorganosiloxane for use in the present invention contains at least one fragment selected from formula (III): (neither)

[0036] and formula (IV) (IV)

[0037] where:

[0038] (a) R1, R2, R3 and R4 are identical or different and can be chosen from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, a siloxane chain and phenyl;

[0039] (b) X is a linear or branched chain alkylene having 1-30 carbons;

[0040] (c) Y is chosen from the group consisting of linear or branched chain alkylenes having 1-40 carbons;

[0041] (d) m is a number between 1 and 700;

[0042] (e) n is a number between 1 and 500.

[0043] Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxane-containing polymers useful here are commercially available from Dow Corning under the trade names DC 8178® and DC 8179®, which are known by the INCI name Nylon-611 / Dimethicone Copolymer.

[0044] At least one polymer containing polyorganosiloxane is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 25%, such as 1%, 2%, 4% or 7% to about 10%, 20% or 25%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

[0045] Silicone elastomer

[0046] In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a silicone elastomer and, in particular, a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer may be in the form of a gel or a powder.

[0047] The “organopolysiloxane elastomer” or “silicone elastomer” or “polymer” The silicone cross-linked thickener thickens the composition, adds a soft (spongy) effect, and improves the application of the finished product. Furthermore, it provides a very smooth feel and a mattifying effect after application, which is particularly beneficial for skincare products.

[0048] The term “non-emulsifying” defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain hydrophilic chains, and in particular polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer that is free of polyoxyalkylene and polyglyceryl units.

[0049] Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in US Patent No. 8,637,057, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference.

[0050] The silicone elastomers particularly useful in the present invention are not generally referred to as "silicone film-forming," because they tend to form soft particles that do not themselves form films.

[0051] A class of non-emulsifying silicone elastomers that are particularly useful in the present invention includes vinyl-modified silicone elastomers such as vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymers, such as those having the INCI designation DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, commercially available from Dow under the name DOWSIL-9240 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND or DL ​​METHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, such as those commercially available from Dow under the name DOWSIL 3903 LIQUID SATIN BLEND or from Shin-Etsu under the name USG-107A.

[0052] In some embodiments, the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles can be delivered in the form of a gel formed from an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical.

[0053] Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers useful in the present invention are dimethicone crosslinked polymer gels (available as mixtures of dimethicone crosslinked polymers in solvents) having viscosity values ​​of about 150 to about 700 mm2 / s, about 200 to about 650 mm2 / s and about 300 to about 600 mm2 / s, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0054] Silicone elastomer mixtures that may be particularly useful for the present invention are mixtures having a high molecular weight in volatile solvents, such as silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and mixtures thereof, according to the definition disclosed so far.

[0055] Specific but non-limiting examples of silicone elastomer gels applicable in the present invention are represented by DC EL-8040 ID (INCI name: Isododecane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and DC EL-9140 DM (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer) and DOWSIL EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.

[0056] Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers and their synthesis are disclosed, for example, in US patents No. 8, 637,057 and US / 20150174048, all of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0057] The total amount of at least one silicone elastomer is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 1% to about 25%, such as 1%, 2% or 4% to about 5%, 10%, 15%, 20% or 25%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

[0058] Lamellar mineral

[0059] The inventors have found that the use of a lamellar mineral is particularly useful in the present invention. By "lamellar mineral" is meant a particle that develops crystal forms or faces of thin, sheet-like layers (i.e., separated along cleavage planes) and forms "sheet-like" particles having a high height-to-width ratio. "Lamellar" minerals can be characterized by a height-to-width ratio and (average particle size / thickness) of at least about 5, 10, or 20 to about 100 or 200. As known from For a person skilled in the art, the height / width ratio can be determined using, for example, shading, SEM, scanning white light interferometric microscopy, etc.

[0060] The lamellar minerals useful in the present invention may have an average particle size of approximately 1 or 3 micrometers (µm) to approximately 100 µm or 150 µm and may have 95% of the particles in a range of approximately 0.5 µm or 1 µm to approximately 50 µm, 75 µm, or 100 µm. The lamellar mineral may have a thickness of approximately 0.1 µm to 10 µm. The average particle size may be determined using, for example, particle size analysis / sieving; with an air-vacuum sieve shaker, by laser diffraction, by optical or electron microscopy, etc. An "equivalent spherical" analysis may be used, and the results may be reported using, for example, the mean (in some embodiments) or the mode mean (in other embodiments).

[0061] The lamellar minerals useful in the present invention may in certain embodiments have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, of at least 70 ml / 100 g and a size expressed in average-volume diameter of at least 15 microns.

[0062] Examples of suitable lamellar minerals include coated or uncoated variants of layered silicates such as natural mica, synthetic mica (synthetic fluorophlogopite). Lamellar variants of certain other minerals may also be suitable, including certain other layered silicate clays such as bentonite clays, kaolin clays, as well as lamellar variants of certain materials not falling within the classification of layered silicates such as lamellar aluminum oxide, lamellar silicon dioxide and certain glass flakes.

[0063] Natural and synthetic mica, particularly natural mica, is of particular relevance to the present invention. Therefore, in certain embodiments, the lamellar mineral comprises or consists entirely of natural or synthetic mica.

[0064] Mica is a layered silicate, specifically a highly lamellar phyllosilicate of aluminum and potassium, and may be, for example, a variety of muscovite or phlogopite. A suitable mica is an uncoated mica, available as MEARLMICA DD from BASF, having an apparent density of approximately 12 g / 100 cc, and 95% of particles between 2 and 48 microns.

[0065] Coatings can be formed on the lamellar mineral, including those commonly used to provide optical effects (e.g., effect pigments) or to provide tactile and / or stability benefits. Suitable coatings may include metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, oxides of Iron, bismuth oxides, silicone oxides, organic colorants (e.g., dyes), and combinations thereof. These can be formed using any number of known techniques such as metal hydroxide precipitation and calcination, chemical vapor deposition, etc. Other suitable coatings include various silicones, hydrocarbons, glutamates, lauroyl lysine, etc. In some embodiments, the lamellar mineral is not coated.

[0066] According to some notable embodiments, at least one lamellar mineral is selected from the group consisting of a natural mica, a synthetic mica and combinations thereof, and the lamellar mineral is present in a concentration in the composition ranging from about 6.5%, 7% or 7.5% by weight to about 9% or 10% by weight, such as, in particular, about 6.5% by weight to about 10% by weight.

[0067] Oil system

[0068] The compositions of the invention generally include an oil system comprising, consisting of, or essentially consisting of at least one non-volatile silicone and at least one volatile oil. The oil system serves as a vehicle for the composition to facilitate the spreading of the composition on a keratinous surface such as the lips. The oil system further solubilizes and / or disperses various other ingredients in the composition.

[0069] The oil system may be present in an amount ranging from about 40%, 50%, 60%, 65% or 70% to about 70%, 80%, 85% or 90%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

[0070] According to certain embodiments, "oil" means compounds having a melting point below approximately 30 °C and generally insoluble in water, and including a hydrophobic fraction, such as a compound meeting one or more of the following three criteria: (a) has a carbon chain of at least six carbons in which none of the six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic fraction (defined below) directly bonded thereto; (b) has two or more alkyl siloxy groups; or (c) has two or more oxypropylene groups in sequence. The hydrophobic fraction may include linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated, or unsaturated groups.The hydrophobic compound is, in some embodiments, non-amphiphilic and, as such, in this embodiment, does not include hydrophilic fractions, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or nonionic groups, which are polar, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, ammonium, including mono-, di-, and trialkylammonium species, pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly(ethyleneiminium), ammonioalkylsulfonate, ammonioalkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate, and poly(ethyleneoxy)sulfonyl fractions. In some embodiments, the oil does not include hydroxyl fractions. In some other embodiments, the "oil" is intended to be... exclude surfactant materials, such as those capable of depressing the surface tension of water at 25 degrees C to values ​​below about 50 dynes / cm when present in concentrations of 0.5% or less in deionized water.

[0071] In some embodiments, the term "volatile oil" means a non-aqueous medium that is generally insoluble in water and capable of evaporating upon contact with the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. In some other embodiments, "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous compound having a flash point below approximately 120°C, such as below approximately 100°C, such as from approximately 40°C to approximately 100°C.

[0072] Examples of volatile oils include, in particular, volatile hydrocarbon oils such as, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular, C8 to Ci6 branched alkanes such as C8 to Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the brand names Isopar or Permethyl, C8 to Ci6 branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neo-pentanoate, alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

[0073] Examples of volatile hydrocarbon oils include, in particular, those given in Table 1 below.

[0074] [Tables 1] Compound Flash Point (°C) Isododecane 43 Isohexadecane 102 Isodecyl neopentanoate 118 Propylene glycol n-butyl ether 60 Ethyl 3-Ethoxypropionate 58 Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate 46 Isopar L (Cn-Cu isoparaffin) 62 Isopar H (Cn-Cl2 isoparaffin) 56

[0075] The volatile solvent may also be chosen from volatile silicone oils (or include them), which may be linear or cyclic, having a viscosity, at room temperature, less than or equal to 6 cSt, and comprising from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally substituted by alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

[0076] Examples of suitable volatile silicone oils include, in particular, those listed in Table 2 below.

[0077] [Tables2] Compound Flash Point (°C) Viscosity (cSt) Octyltrimethicone 93 1.2 Hexyltrimethicone 79 1.2 Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 72 4.2 (cyclopentasiloxane or D5) Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane 55 2.5 (cyclotetramethylsiloxane or D4) Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6) 93 7 Decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4) 63 1.7 KF-96 A from Shin Etsu 94 6 PDMS (polydimethylsiloxane) DC 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning 56 1.5 PDMS DC 200 (2 cSt) from Dow Corning 87 2 PDMS DC 200 (5 cSt) from Dow Corning 134 5 PDMS DC 200 (3rd) of Dow Corning 102 3

[0078] At least one volatile oil is generally present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 3% or 4% to about 4%, 5%, 6%, 8% or 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within those ranges.

[0079] Non-volatile silicone oil

[0080] The oil system further comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil. The non-volatile silicone oil can be characterized as a non-aqueous compound that is generally fluid at room temperature, insoluble in water, and comprises a plurality of Si-O bonds and a plurality of Si-C bonds. In some other embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil has a flash point above approximately 120 °C, such as above approximately 150 °C, such as above approximately 200 °C.

[0081] The volatility of the oils can be determined using the evaporation rate indicated in US Patent No. 6,338,839, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0082] Non-volatile silicone oils include low viscosity oils (having a viscosity of about 5 to about 10 centipoise) and high viscosity oils (having a viscosity of about 100 to about 10,000 centipoise), and mixtures thereof. Unlike waxes, oils are liquid at room temperature.

[0083] According to a certain embodiment of the present invention, the at least one silicone oil is a high-viscosity silicone oil. “High viscosity” means an oil having a viscosity greater than 100 cSt, in particular greater than 250 cSt at 25 °C. In particular, the non-volatile oil is selected from a silicone oil. These oils are described, for example, in publications 2011 / 0293550 and 2004 / 0126350, both of which are incorporated by reference. In some embodiments, the at least one silicone oil includes a plurality of silicone oils having different individual viscosities. A weighted average viscosity, defined as the aggregate sum of the viscosity of each silicone oil multiplied (weighted) by its relative weight fraction among all the silicone oils, can range from about 50 cSt to about 100 cSt.

[0084] Non-limiting examples of suitable non-volatile silicone oils include polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (CTFA designation "dimethicones" comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms); polydiethylsiloxanes; and dimethicone fluids such as dimethicone fluids having a viscosity in particular ranges of centipoise (cps) or centistokes (cSt) when measured at 25 °C.

[0085] Specific examples of high viscosity silicone oils suitable for this invention include, in particular, Dow Corning's Xiameter® silicone fluids.

[0086] According to certain embodiments, the composition is substantially free from or devoid of non-volatile solvents having at least one or more phenyl groups. These solvents are, for example, described in US Patent No. 8,945,525, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

[0087] At least one non-volatile silicone oil may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount from about 2% to about 75% by weight, such as from about 10%, 15%, 20% or 25% to about 40%, 50%, 60% or 75%, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within those ranges.

[0088] Reports

[0089] According to certain embodiments, to provide a remarkably good drying time as well as tactile comfort, at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil are present in a particular weight ratio of non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil. The inventors have found that this ratio should be from approximately 4:1, 4.5:1, 5:1, 5.5:1, 6:1, or 6.5:1 to approximately 7:1, 8:1, 9:1, or 10:1. This ratio is calculated by dividing the weight concentration of at least one non-volatile silicone oil by the weight concentration of at least one volatile oil (e.g., 10% total non-volatile silicone oil(s) and 2% total volatile oil(s) would be a ratio of 5:1).

[0090] Furthermore, in certain other embodiments, in order to provide aesthetic optical blurring in conjunction with the matte finish and the properties listed in the preceding paragraph in such compositions, it is desirable to have at least one lamellar mineral present in a certain weight ratio of the lamellar mineral to the total oil system (where the oil system again refers to the total concentrations of non-volatile silicone oils, volatile oils, and other oils). The inventors have found that this ratio should be from approximately 1:10, 1:9, or 1:8 to approximately 1:7, 1:6, or 1:5. This ratio is calculated, for example, by dividing the weight concentration of the oils by the weight concentration of at least one lamellar mineral (for example, 10% oils and 2% lamellar minerals would be a ratio of 1:5).

[0091] Dyes

[0092] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain at least one cosmetically acceptable colorant such as a pigment or dye. Examples of suitable colorants include, in particular, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. A pigment is understood to mean inorganic or organic particles, white or colored. These pigments may optionally be surface-treated within the scope of the present invention, but are not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorinated compounds, lecithin, and amino acids.

[0093] Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide rutile or anatase, coded in the color index under the reference CI 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, coded under the references CI 77,499, 77, 492 and 77,491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77,007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and ferric blue (CI 77,510) and mixtures thereof.

[0094] Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 45,370), D&C Red No. 27 (CI 45,410), D&C Red No. 13 (CI 15,630), D&C Red No. 7 (CI 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 15,170), D&C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D&C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D&C Orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D&C Orange No. 5 (CI 15,850), D&C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D&C Yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D&C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D&C Orange No. 10 (CI 15,380), D&C Red No. 19 (CI 15,170), D&C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585 ... 45.425), D&C yellow No. 6 (CI 15.985), D&C Red No. 30 (CI 73.360), D&C red No. 3 (CI 45 430) and dyes or lacquers based on cochineal carmine (CI 75 570) and mixtures thereof.

[0095] Representative examples of iridescent pigments useful in the present invention include white iridescent pigments such as titanium oxide coated mica, titanium dioxide coated mica, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride, colored iridescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide and the like, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type, as well as those based on bismuth oxychloride and mixtures thereof.

[0096] At least one colorant may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount ranging from about 0.5%, 0.6% or 1% to about 2%, 3.5%, 5% or 10% relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within those ranges.

[0097] Wax

[0098] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may optionally contain at least one wax.

[0099] For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound that is solid at room temperature (25 °C), has a reversible solid / liquid phase change (i.e., the state of the material can change depending on the temperature), has a melting point above 45 °C, preferably above 55 °C, even better between about 65 °C and about 120 °C, and has an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a power-compensated calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter marketed as the DSC 30 by Mettler. For petroleum-derived waxes, such as microcrystalline wax, the melting point can be measured according to the ASTM D-127 drop method.

[0100] Waxes are those generally used in cosmetics and dermatology. Waxes can be of natural origin, for example beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, lignite wax, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, montane wax, ozokerites and hydrogenated oils, for example hydrogenated jojoba oil.

[0101] Waxes can also be of synthetic origin, for example polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and glycerides solid at 40 °C.

[0102] Particular waxes include polyethylene waxes, for example the product marketed under the name Performalene 500-L Polyethylene (New Phase Technology), and polymethylene waxes, for example the product marketed under the name Cirebelle 303 (Sasol).

[0103] The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may contain at least one polypropylsilsesquioxane wax substituted by alkyl motifs having at least 30 carbons.

[0104] Polypropylene-silsesquioxane waxes, in general, have been disclosed in patent publication WO2005 / 100444 and US patent No. 2004 / 0170586 and 2009 / 0142289, the entire contents of which are incorporated by reference.

[0105] A polypropylsilsesquioxane wax particularly preferred for use in the present invention is a POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE C30-45 ALKYLDIMETHYLSILYL POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE wax commercially available from DOW CORNING under the trade name SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax.

[0106] When present in the compositions of the present invention, at least one wax may be present in an amount ranging from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight, generally from about 0.03% or 0.5% to 1%, 2%, 3%, or 4% by weight. In some embodiments, the compositions comprise less than about 4% total waxes. In some other embodiments, the compositions are substantially free of hydrocarbon waxes.

[0107] Charges

[0108] The fillers that can be used in the compositions of the invention include those that provide a filling, opacifying, or, especially, a mattifying effect and that are not encompassed by the above definition for "lamellar mineral." Examples include certain minerals with various chemical compositions such as silica powder; talc; polyamide particles; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those based on ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres; powders of natural organic materials such as crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn starch, wheat starch, or rice starch, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride; silicone resin microbeads; and certain clays (bentone, laponite, saponite, etc.) and mixtures thereof.

[0109] The fillers particularly useful for the present invention are matting agents / fillers. Particularly suitable matting agents are those having a specific surface area (measured, for example, by BET) of at least about 100 m² / g. Suitable examples include aerogels such as certain microcrystalline celluloses and hydrophobic silica aerogels. Silica aerogels are particularly noteworthy.

[0110] Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (with drying) the liquid component of a silica gel by air. They are usually synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, typically by extraction from a supercritical fluid, most commonly supercritical CO2. This type of drying prevents shrinkage of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various drying processes are described in detail in Brinker, CJ, and Scherer, GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academie Press, 1990. Silica aerogels, in general, were disclosed in U.S. Patent No. 9,320,689, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference;

[0111] Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of 5 to 15 sqm and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0112] Examples include aerogels sold by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

[0113] For example, the aerogel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica Silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

[0114] The fillers (mattifying) may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount from about 1% to about 10% by weight, such as about 0.1%, 0.5%, 1% by weight or about 2%, 3%, 5% or 10%, relative to the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and sub-ranges within those ranges.

[0115] In particular, silica aerogel particles, if used, can be used in the inventive compositions from 0.1% to about 6% by weight, or better still from about 0.2%, 0.3%, or 0.5% or 0.6% to about 0.6%, 1%, 1.5%, 2% or 5% by weight.

[0116] In some embodiments, if expanded perlite is included among the fillers, the weight concentration is less than 10%, such as less than 5%, or such as less than 1%. In some other embodiments, the composition is substantially free of swelling clays (clay materials capable of swelling in water). Smectite clays are an example of a swelling clay. The crystal structure of the smectite group is an octahedral alumina sheet between two tetrahedral silica sheets. In one particular embodiment, the swelling clay is bentonite. Bentonite is a rock formed from highly colloidal and plastic clays composed mainly of montmorillonite, a clay mineral of the Bentonite belongs to the smectite group and is produced by the in-situ devitrification of volcanic ash. In addition to montmorillonite, bentonite may contain feldspar, cristobalite, and crystalline quartz. Bentonite has the ability to form thixotrophic gels with water and can absorb large quantities of water. Variations in interstitial water and exchangeable cations in the intercalated space affect the properties of bentonite and, consequently, the commercial uses of different types of bentonite.

[0117] Additives

[0118] The compositions of the present invention may further comprise at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable additive such as an additional thickener, plasticizer, antioxidant, essential oil, botanical extract, perfume, preservative, fragrance, pasty fat substance, neutralizing agent and polymer, and cosmetically and / or dermatologically active agents such as, for example, oils (other than those described above), moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids and drugs.

[0119] According to the present invention, the additives are incorporated from about 0.01%, 0.5% or 1% to about 1%, 2% or 5% by weight.

[0120] In some embodiments, the cosmetic composition useful for application to the lips is a liquid cosmetic lip composition comprising (1) from about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight of an oil system comprising or consisting of at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil; (2) at least one silicone film-forming agent; (3) at least one silicone elastomer; (4) from about 6.5% to about 10% mica; and (5) a silica aerogel (in particular from about 0.6% to about 1.5% silica aerogel). The at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil are present in a non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 10:1.

[0121] The compositions of the present invention are useful as compositions for skin makeup, particularly for the lips. The compositions can be used, for example, as a single-layer treatment or as a base coat for a top coat.

[0122] The compositions can be made by methods known to those skilled in the art, for example by filling a container with one or more solvents or oil and adding various ingredients and mixing. The pigments can be pre-ground into a suspension or slurry before being added.

[0123] The present invention will be better understood from the following examples. The examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only; the scope of the invention being defined by the claims. EXAMPLES

[0124] The present invention will be better understood from the following examples. The examples are intended to be non-restrictive and explanatory only, the scope of the invention being defined by the claims.

[0125] The following compositions, inventive examples El and E2 (with different concentrations of dye) and comparative examples Cl-Cil were prepared according to Table 1, Table 2 and Table 3.

[0126] The compositions were generally prepared using a mixture of pigment, isododecane silicone resin, and a milling process to create a pigment paste. The mixture is processed using a Disconti Mill until the paste successfully passes the Hegman Gauge test (ASTM D1210-05). The milled paste is then added to the remaining ingredients. The mixture is heated to approximately 80 °C and stirred until a homogeneous liquid composition is obtained. The compositions are then cooled to room temperature and transferred into the desired containers and / or applicators. The "other silicones*" in the tables refer to silicone resin, silicone telastomer, silicone wax, and polyorganosiloxane copolymer. The "other" ingredients refer to the preservatives and other additives described above.

[0127] The compositions were evaluated by asking a user to apply the composition to her lips using a conventional liquid lipstick applicator. The degree of blurring and mattifying effect was assessed visually upon application to the lips and visually and tactilely in terms of blurring, mattifying effect, tactile comfort, and wearability. Drying time was evaluated by performing a kiss test on the back of the hand. Unless otherwise indicated below, the samples were acceptable with respect to each of these attributes.

[0128] Compositions without volatile solvent (here, isododecane) have a shorter drying time (see C1-C10), but if one attempts to add increasing amounts of volatile oil in a ratio of non-volatile silicone oil (here, dimethicone) to volatile oil (here, isododecane) of less than approximately 4:1, the user begins to experience tactile discomfort such as a feeling of dryness or tightness (see C1-C10). However, the use of small amounts of volatile oil also necessitates increasing proportions of other ingredients. The inventors have found that the use of lamellar mineral (mica, in the example below), compared to other fillers and pigments, is very useful in this respect. For example, the inventors discovered that samples with a ratio of lamellar pigment (here, mica) to oil system (here, dimethicone plus isododecane) of approximately 1:10 to approximately 1:5 have surprisingly good performance.

[0129] In addition, since a matte finish is also desirable, and lamellar pigments are generally not sufficient to provide adequate matte finish, an additional mattifying agent (see the use of silica silylate below) is required.

[0130] [Tables3] Ingredient E1-E2 Cl C2 C3 C4 Dimethicone 46% 40% 31% 40% 40% Isododecane 6.3% 12% 33% 14% 12% Other silicones* 35% 35% 20% 35% 25% Mica 8.5% — — — 8.0% Silica silylate 1.0% 0.50% 0.75% — 0.50% Spherical silica — — 5.2% — — Nylon-12 — — — — — Colorants 1.0% or 1.5% 10% 6.0% 2.0% 2.0% Other QSQSQSQSQS dimethicone : isododecane 7.3:1 3.3:1 0.84:1 2.8:1 3.3:1 mica : (dimethicone+isodecane) 1:6.2 0 0 0 1:6.6 EVALUATION RESULTS Excellent blurring, matte finish, and tactile comfort Slight blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish, excellent wear Slight blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish; Minimal blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish; good wear Excellent blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish

[0131] [Tables4] Ingredient C5 C6 C7 C8 C9 Dimethicone 34% 36% 23% 46% 46% Isododecane 30% 14% 27% 16% 18% Other silicones* 28% 28% 22% 30% 28% Mica — 8.0% — — 4% Silica silylate 0.76% 0.6% — 1.0% 1.0% Perlite — — 15% — — Hollow spherical silica — — — 2.0% 5.0% Colorants 5.0% 3.0% 8.8% 2.0% 1.0% Other QSQSQSQSQS dimethicone : isododecane 1.1:1 3.3:1 0.84:1 2.9:1 2.5:1 mica : (dimethicone+isodecane) 0 1:7.3 0 0 1:16 EVALUATION RESULTS Minimal blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish. Good minimal blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish. Some tactile discomfort; good matte finish. Minimal blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish. Some blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish;

[0132] [Tables5] Ingredient CIO Eyelash Dimethicone 46% 52% Isododecane 18% 0% Other silicones* 26% 35% Mica 4.0% 8.5% Silica silylate 1.0% 1.0% Nylon-12 5.0% — Hollow spherical silica — Colorants 1.0% 1.5% Other QSQS dimethicone: isododecane 2.5:1 N / A mica: (dimethicone+isododecane) 1:16 1:6.1 EVALUATION RESULTS Minimal blurring, tactile discomfort; good matte finish. Good blurring, some tactile discomfort; good matte finish, poor drying time.

[0133] The mixture of pigment, isododecane, and MQ resin was ground to create a pigment paste. The mixture was processed using a 3-roll mill until the paste successfully passed the Hegman Gauge test (ASTM D1210-05). The ground paste was then added to the remaining ingredients. The mixture was heated to 80°C and stirred until a homogeneous liquid composition was obtained. The inventive composition was then cooled to room temperature and transferred into the desired containers and / or applicators.

Claims

Demands

1. A method for lip makeup, comprising the application to the lips of an anhydrous liquid composition comprising: at least one non-volatile silicone oil; at least one volatile oil; at least one film-forming agent; at least one colorant; at least one lamellar mineral and a mattifying agent; the at least one non-volatile silicone oil and the at least one volatile oil being present in a weight ratio of non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil of about 4:1 to about 10:

1.

2. A method according to claim 1, wherein at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil constitute an oil system and wherein at least one lamellar mineral is present in a lamellar mineral to oil system weight ratio of about 1:10 to about 1:

5.

3. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one lamellar mineral is selected from a group consisting of a natural mica, a synthetic mica and combinations thereof, in which at least one lamellar mineral is present in a concentration in the composition ranging from about 6.5% by weight to about 10% by weight.

4. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil are present in a total concentration in the composition ranging from about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight.

5. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one volatile oil is present in a concentration in the composition ranging from about 4% by weight to about 10% by weight.

6. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the weight ratio of the non-volatile silicone oil to the volatile oil in the composition is from about 4:1 to about 8:

1.

7. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one volatile oil comprises one or more C8 to C16 alkanes.

8. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which composition includes less than approximately 4% wax.

9. Liquid cosmetic composition for lips comprising: from about 40% by weight to about 80% by weight of an oil system comprising at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil; at least one silicone film-forming agent; at least one silicone elastomer; from about 6.5% to about 10% of mica and silica aerogel; wherein at least one non-volatile silicone oil and at least one volatile oil are present in a non-volatile silicone oil to volatile oil weight ratio of about 4:1 to about 10:

1.

10. Liquid lip composition according to claim 9, wherein at least one lamellar mineral is present in a lamellar mineral weight ratio to an oil system that is about 1:10 to about 1:5, and wherein the at least one volatile oil comprises one or more C8 to Ci6 alkanes.