EMULSIFYING AGENT FOR THE PREPARATION OF TOPICAL COMPOSITIONS

Abstract

The invention relates to an emulsifying agent characterized in that it comprises 5% to 30% by weight of lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC)-enriched phospholipids in a suitable vehicle. The invention also relates to the use of this emulsifying agent in the preparation of topical compositions, particularly cosmetics, and to said compositions themselves.

Description

Title of the invention: EMULSIFYING AGENT FOR THE PREPARATION OF TOPICAL COMPOSITIONS Technical field

[0001] The present invention relates to the field of emulsifying agents for the preparation of topical compositions, particularly for cosmetic purposes. TECHNOLOGICAL BACKGROUND

[0002] Stable colloidal dispersions or emulsions are present in many cosmetic products intended to be applied to the skin or to one of its appendages.

[0003] Oil-in-water emulsions are thermodynamically composed systems of oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous medium. These systems are unstable and tend to decompose due to complex physicochemical mechanisms, such as flocculation, coalescence, and sedimentation. To produce stable emulsions, it is necessary to incorporate stabilizers such as emulsifying, thickening, or gelling agents.

[0004] To date, the most commonly used emulsifiers in cosmetic products are surfactants or emulsifiers derived from the petrochemical industry. These surfactants include cationic surfactants such as Polyquaternium-10 and anionic surfactants such as sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and linear alkylbenzene sulfonates, as well as nonionic surfactants such as fatty alcohol ethers and grafted acrylic acid polymers.

[0005] The use of such surfactants poses environmental problems both because of their synthesis process and their fate in the environment. Indeed, these surfactants are difficult to remove by conventional wastewater treatment and can therefore end up in agricultural soils and aquatic ecosystems.

[0006] On the other hand, there is a growing demand for natural cosmetic products and / or those with a reduced environmental impact. To date, there are a limited number of surfactants that meet the COSMOS® certification requirements.

[0007] Thus, there is a need for alternatives to traditional surfactants from the petrochemical industry. FIGURES

[0008] [Fig.1] shows the optical microscopy image of the emulsion obtained with soy lecithin in Example 2 d).

[0009] [Fig.2] shows the optical microscopy image of the emulsion obtained with the emulsifying agent according to the invention in Example 2 d). Summary of the invention

[0010] The Invention relates to an emulsifying agent characterized in that it comprises 5% to 30% by weight of phospholipids enriched in lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC) and 70% to 95% by weight of a solvent selected from the group consisting of glycerin, C2-C5 alkanediols, mixtures thereof and aqueous mixtures thereof.

[0011] In certain embodiments, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that its phospholipid composition is such that:

[0012] - the LPCs represent at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight of the total weight of said phospholipids, and

[0013] - phosphatidylcholine (PC) represents at most 5%, preferably at most 2.5% in weight of the total weight of said phospholipids.

[0014] In other embodiments, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that its phospholipid composition is such that:

[0015] - 1-lysophosphatidylcholine (1-LPC) represents at least 3% by weight, of preference of 8% to 13% by weight of the total weight of said phospholipids

[0016] - 2-lysophosphatidylcholine (2-LPC) represents at least 75% by weight, of preference of 75% to 90% by weight of the total weight of said phospholipids.

[0017] In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that it optionally comprises an antioxidant agent, preferably tocopherol.

[0018] In additional embodiments, the emulsifying agent as defined above is characterized in that it comprises from 10% to 25% by weight of LPC, preferably from 12% to 18% by weight of LPC.

[0019] According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a topical composition, preferably cosmetic, characterized in that it comprises the emulsifying agent as defined herein, preferably in a content of at most 10% by weight.

[0020] Said topical composition is typically chosen from a cosmetic care product, a hygiene product, a perfume and a makeup product, preferably from a cream, a cream gel, a milk, a makeup remover, a micellar water in particular for makeup removal, a mask, a shampoo, a conditioner, a shower gel, a lipstick, a foundation, a tinted cream (e.g. a BB cream), a mascara, an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, a serum, a spray or a lotion in particular for sun protection, a perfumed water or mist and an aqueous perfume.

[0021] In a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a translucent or transparent oil-in-water emulsion. It may, in particular, be a perfumed water or a transparent perfumed mist. Said cosmetic composition may comprise or essentially consist of

[0022] - from 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.0% of an oily phase comprising odor molecules,

[0023] - from 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.0% by weight of the emulsifying agent according to the Invention,

[0024] - optionally, a maximum of 5.0% by weight of preservative,

[0025] in water.

[0026] In another embodiment, the topical composition is a micellar water or transparent serum for topical application characterized in that it comprises the emulsifying agent according to the invention in a content of at most 5% by weight in the water.

[0027] In a further embodiment, the aqueous perfume composition comprises:

[0028] - at most 5% by weight of the emulsifying agent as defined above,

[0029] -at most 10% by weight of odorant molecules, preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight,

[0030] - at most 50% by weight of ethanol, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight of ethanol

[0031] in water,

[0032] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0033] The invention also relates to the use of the emulsifying agent according to the invention for:

[0034] - the preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion or a translucent micellar water, preferably transparency

[0035] - the stabilization of topical compositions in the form of an emulsion and improving organoleptic properties, particularly to provide a soft and non-greasy feel,

[0036] - the preparation of perfume with a reduced ethanol content,

[0037] - stabilizing the dispersion of lipophilic odorant molecules in water, and / or

[0038] - the increase in the penetration and diffusion of a lipophilic active agent in the skin.

[0039] According to a further aspect, the Invention relates to a process for preparing the emulsifying agent as defined herein, comprising the following steps:

[0040] (a) the supply of phospholipids comprising at least 60% by weight of LPC,

[0041] (b) the addition of a vehicle preferably chosen from among the C2-C5 alkanediols, the glycerin, mixtures thereof and aqueous mixtures thereof, so as to obtain a dispersion,

[0042] said process may include a pre-solubilization step of the phospholipids in an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic mixture before dispersion in the vehicle and the removal of the alcohol, once the dispersion has been obtained. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0043] Lecithins are functional ingredients used in cosmetics as carriers for active ingredients or as emulsifiers. Their use as emulsifying agents remains limited due to their poor performance: emulsions obtained with lecithins exhibit low stability, uneven droplet sizes, and a tendency to cream, requiring the use of thickeners or gelling agents.

[0044] The Applicant sought to develop a new emulsifying agent of natural origin with improved properties. The Applicant thus demonstrated that it was possible to prepare an improved emulsifying agent from lysophosphatidylcholines (LPCs). LPCs are generally considered to be degradation products of lecithins, the presence of which is to be avoided. In their isolated state, LPCs are a very hard, poorly soluble wax that is difficult to handle.

[0045] Surprisingly, the Applicant has shown that it is possible to solubilize a phospholipid composition highly enriched in LPC in glycerin. The Applicant has also shown that the cosmetic ingredient thus obtained is a powerful emulsifier without the disadvantages of lecithins: the emulsifying agent according to the invention makes it possible to obtain fine and homogeneous emulsions that are stable over time and do not present any creaming problems during their preparation. The emulsions also exhibit improved organoleptic properties, namely a silky, soft feel and are much less greasy than emulsions obtained with conventional lecithin. The emulsifying agent according to the invention can be used without thickeners or gelling agents and allows the preparation of fluid, stable, and sprayable formulas.

[0046] The emulsifying agent according to the Invention has other advantages in comparison with conventional lecithins.

[0047] Indeed, lecithins form opalescent, milky, or even whitish suspensions in water. Surprisingly, the emulsifying agent according to the Invention forms fine micelles in water capable of solubilizing significant quantities of oil phase, such as perfumes and liposoluble active ingredients, while maintaining a translucent or even transparent appearance. The emulsifying agent according to the Invention can therefore be used to prepare transparent cosmetic compositions, for example, micellar waters, perfumed waters, or serums, without the use of synthetic solubilizing agents such as polysorbates. - Emulsifying agent according to the invention

[0048] According to a first aspect, the invention relates to an emulsifying agent based on lysophosphatidylcholines (LPC). Typically, LPCs are the major phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent: LPCs represent at least 60% in The weight of the total weight of phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent. In other words, the emulsifying agent is prepared from phospholipids enriched in LPC. Alternatively, the emulsifying agent can be considered to comprise LPC with a mass purity of at least 60%.

[0049] For the purposes of this invention, "phospholipids" are molecules comprising a hydrophilic head containing a phosphate group bonded to a glycerol residue comprising one or two fatty acid chains. A phospholipid comprising a single fatty acid chain is called a lysophospholipid. Therefore, for the purposes of this invention, the term "phospholipid" refers both to phospholipids comprising a single fatty acid chain, such as LPC, and to phospholipids comprising two fatty acid chains, such as PC.

[0050] The emulsifying agent according to the Invention comprises at least 5%, preferably at least 10% by weight of phospholipids in a suitable vehicle. The suitable vehicle represents at least 65%, preferably at least 70% by weight of the total weight of the emulsifying agent.

[0051] In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent comprises 5% to 30% by weight of phospholipids and 70% to 95% by weight of the vehicle, these percentages referring to the total weight of the emulsifying agent.

[0052] The vehicle is typically chosen from glycerin, C2-C5 alkanediols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isomers thereof, mixtures thereof and mixtures thereof with water.

[0053] In some embodiments, the vehicle is preferably chosen from glycerin and glycerin / water mixtures with a glycerin / water volume ratio greater than 1, preferably greater than 5 or greater than 10.

[0054] In a particular embodiment, the vehicle is glycerin.

[0055] In some embodiments, the vehicle is a C2-C5alkanediol or glycerin, preferably glycerin, comprising at most 5% by weight of water, e.g. 1 to 2% by weight of water.

[0056] As indicated above, LPCs are the major phospholipid compounds present in the emulsifying agent according to the Invention. In some embodiments, LPCs represent at least 65%, preferably at least 70%, more preferably at least 75%, even more preferably at least 80% or at least 90% by weight of the total weight of phospholipids (i.e. the total weight of phospholipids with one or two fatty chains together) present in the emulsifying agent.

[0057] For the purposes of the Invention, "lysophosphatidylcholine" means a glycerophosphocholine molecule esterified at position 1 or 2 of glycerol by a fatty acid. Lysophosphatidylcholines (LPC) can be obtained by hydrolysis of a phosphatidylcholine (PC), for example by enzymatic means.

[0058] As an example, the use of phospholipase Al allows the selective hydrolysis of the fatty acid residue in position 1 of the glycerol of PC thus giving a 1-lysophosphatidylcholine (1-LPC).

[0059] By way of further example, the use of phospholipase A2 allows the selective hydrolysis of the fatty acid residue at position 2 of the glycerol of PC, thus yielding 2-lysophosphatidylcholine (2-LPC). A preferred 2-LPC is, for example, one containing an oleyl or linoleoyl residue.

[0060] For the purposes of the Invention, lysophosphatidylcholines (LPC) include 1-lysophosphatidylcholines (1-LPC), 2-lysophosphatidylcholines (2-LPC) and mixtures thereof.

[0061] In certain embodiments, the LPCs present in the emulsifying agent are of formula (I) or formula (II):

[0062] [Chem.l] O i H ..G. ..,-xx^x "NX ho'"' f °-x he

[0063] Formula (I)

[0064] [Chem.2] □ j / X O"" 'Y XO"" .X, R2 ' 'G

[0065] Formula (II)

[0066] wherein Ri and R2 independently represent a linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. Preferably, Ri and R2 are chosen from saturated or unsaturated chains comprising from 14 to 20 carbon atoms, for example, 17 or 18 carbon atoms. In some embodiments, Ri and R2 are saturated hydrocarbon chains, or comprise at most two double bonds.

[0067] By way of example, the residues RiC(O)O- and R2C(O)O- are chosen from the residues stearyl, palmitoyl, oleoyl linoleoyl, and palmitoleyl, preferably oleoyl and linoleoyl.

[0068] In certain embodiments, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that:

[0069] - 1-lysophosphatodylcholine (1-LPC) represents at least 3% by weight, of preferably 8% to 13% by weight, and

[0070] - 2-lysophosphatodylcholine (2-LPC) represents at least 75% by weight, of preference of 75% to 90% by weight of the total weight of phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent.

[0071] As explained below, depending on the process for obtaining LPC, the emulsifying agent may contain residual amounts of PC. PC is considered in the context of the Invention as an impurity and its content is preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent.

[0072] In some embodiments, phosphatidylcholine (PC) is present as an impurity and represents at most 2.5%, preferably at most 1.5% or at most 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent.

[0073] In other embodiments, the emulsifying agent may comprise phosphatidyl glycerol. The phosphatidyl glycerol represents at most 10%, preferably at most 5%, or even at most 2.5% or 1% by weight of the total weight of phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent.

[0074] Phospholipids enriched to at least 60% by weight of LPC may include other impurities such as phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phospholipid acid, and their lysophospholipid derivatives. These impurities may represent at most 15%, preferably at most 10%, and preferably at most 7.0% by weight of the total phospholipid weight.

[0075] In certain embodiments, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that it has a phospholipid composition in which:

[0076] - the LPCs represent at least 85%, preferably at least 90% by weight of said phospholipids, and

[0077] - The PC represents at most 2.5% by weight, preferably at most 1.5% or even at most 1.0% by weight of said phospholipids.

[0078] The other phospholipids potentially present, e.g. phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phosphatidic acid and the lysophospholipids thereof, represent at most 12.5%, preferably at most 7.5% or even at most 6.5% of the total weight of the phospholipids.

[0079] In certain embodiments, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that its LPC content is at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 9% by weight, of preferred method at least 12% by weight or even at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsifier.

[0080] In some preferred embodiments, the LPC content in the emulsifying agent is in a range of 10% to 25% by weight, more preferably in a range of 12% to 18% by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsifying agent.

[0081] The emulsifying agent may optionally include an antioxidant agent. The antioxidant agent generally represents at most 5.0%, preferably at most 3.0%, more preferably at most 1.5%, or even at most 1.0% or 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] By way of example, the antioxidant agent may be chosen from tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, ascorbic acid and its salts and esters, in particular ascorbyl palmitate or stearate, HMR (hydroxymethyl resorcinol), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene) or plant extracts, in particular rosemary. Preferably, the antioxidant agent is tocopherol.

[0083] In another embodiment, the emulsifying agent according to the invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetically acceptable excipients such as a vegetable oil, a preservative, a thickening agent, or a gelling agent. The additional cosmetic excipient(s) may together represent at most 10.0%, preferably at most 5% or 2.5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsifying agent. Examples of suitable vegetable oils, preservatives, thickening agents, or gelling agents are given later in the section devoted to topical compositions according to the invention.

[0084] In another embodiment, the emulsifying agent may contain a cosmetic agent, for example as described later in the section devoted to topical compositions according to the invention. This may include water-soluble agents such as hyaluronic acid, fat-soluble agents such as vitamins, triglycerides, and essential oils, as well as amphiphilic agents such as caffeine.

[0085] In a particular embodiment, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that it

[0086] comprises or essentially consists of:

[0087] - from 5% to 30%, preferably from 15% to 25% by weight of phospholipids,

[0088] - from 65% to 94.9%, preferably from 75% to 84.9% by weight of glycerin or a glycerin / water mixture in a volume ratio of at least 1 / 1, preferably at least 5 / 1 and

[0089] - optionally, at most 5.0%, preferably from 0.1% to 3.0% by weight of an agent antioxidant such as tocopherol,

[0090] the percentages being expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the emulsifying agent,

[0091] and

[0092] - in that the LPCs represent at least 70% or 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% or at least 90% by weight of the phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent.

[0093] For the purposes of the Invention, "consists essentially" means that the ingredients listed after this expression together represent at least 95%, preferably at least 96%, 97%, 98% or 99% by weight of the total weight of the emulsifying agent.

[0094] By way of example, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that:

[0095] it essentially comprises or consists of

[0096] - from 18% to 22% by weight of phospholipids,

[0097] - from 78% to 82% by weight of glycerin, and

[0098] - optionally, of at most 1.5% by weight of tocopherol, for example at most 1.0% or at plus 0.5% by weight of tocopherol and

[0099] in that its positional composition in phospholipids is such that LPC represents at least 85% by weight or at least 90% of said phospholipids and PC represents at most 1.5% by weight of said phospholipids.

[0100] By way of further example, the emulsifying agent is characterized in that:

[0101] it comprises or consists essentially of

[0102] - 21% + / - 10% by weight of phospholipids,

[0103] - of 78.5% + / - 10% by weight of glycerin, and

[0104] - optionally, of at most 0.5% + / - 10% by weight of tocopherol, and

[0105] in that its positional composition in phospholipids is such that LPC represents at least 85% by weight or at least 90% of said phospholipids and PC represents at most 1.5% by weight of said phospholipids.

[0106] - Preparation of the emulsifying agent according to the Invention

[0107] According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing an emulsifying agent according to the invention. Lysophosphatylcholine (LPC) is in the form of a very hard wax, which is difficult to disperse in water. It is possible to dissolve LPC in ethanol. However, ethanol is not suitable for use in most cosmetic products due to its irritating and drying properties. The applicant has shown that it is possible to obtain a homogeneous and stable dispersion of LPC using as a support a hydrophilic solvent such as glycerin, C2-C5 alkanediols, mixtures thereof, and aqueous mixtures thereof.

[0108] According to one particular aspect, the process for preparing an emulsifying agent according to the invention comprises the following steps:

[0109] (a) the supply of LPC-enriched phospholipids, and

[0110] (b) the dispersion of phospholipids in a vehicle preferably selected from the C2-C5 alkanediols, glycerin, mixtures thereof and aqueous mixtures thereof,

[0111] For the purposes of the Invention, "LPC-enriched phospholipids" means a mixture of phospholipids comprising at least 60% by weight of LPC, preferably at least 70%, 75%, 80%, 85% or 90% by weight of LPC. Thus, "LPC-enriched phospholipids" can be considered to correspond to lysophosphatidylcholine having a mass purity of at least 60%, preferably at least 70%, 75%, 80%, 85% or 90%.

[0112] As indicated above, the LPCs are divided into 1-LPC and 2-LPC. In some embodiments, 1-lysophosphatodylcholine (1-LPC) represents at least 3% by weight, preferably from 8% to 13% by weight, and 2-lysophosphatodylcholine (2-LPC) represents at least 75% by weight, preferably from 75% to 90% by weight of the total weight of the phospholipids. In some embodiments, the phospholipid composition has a residual PC content, the PC being present as an impurity. Preferably, phosphatidylcholine (PC) represents at most 5.0%, preferably at most 2.5%, or even at most 1.5% or at most 1.0% by weight of the total weight of the starting phospholipids.

[0113] Said LPC-enriched phospholipids may have a residual content of phospholipids such as phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylinositol, phospholipid acid and the lysophospholipids thereof, of not more than 12.5%, preferably not more than 7.5% or even not more than 6.5% by weight.

[0114] Commercially available products called "lysolecithin" exist. However, contrary to what their name suggests, their actual lysophospholipid content, and in particular their LPC content, is very low. In other words, commercially available lysolecithins are generally not suitable for use in the preparation of the emulsifying agent according to the Invention without a preliminary step (e.g., purification) to significantly increase their LPC content.

[0115] In a particular embodiment, the LPC-enriched phospholipids supplied in step (a) are obtained by hydrolysis of purified phosphatidylcholine. Preferably, this hydrolysis step is carried out using a phospholipase. A preferred phospholipase is phospholipase A2. Such a phospholipase hydrolyzes the fatty chain present at position 2 of the glycerol in PC and generates primarily 2-LPC. The lysophospholipids and fatty acids generated during the reaction can be separated by any known method, for example by ethanol extraction, so as to obtain a phospholipid composition with a low free fatty acid content, for example, a content of at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 2.5% by weight or at most 1.0% by weight.

[0116] The purified PC can be obtained by any known method, for example by chemical synthesis or by purification from lecithin. Any type of lecithin can be used. This may include lecithin obtained from egg yolks, or from soybeans, rapeseed, or sunflower seeds. Preferably, the lecithin is obtained from soybeans. The lecithin may be hydrolyzed or non-hydrolyzed. Preferably, it is non-hydrogenated lecithin. It may be commercial lecithin.

[0117] Typically, the PC used in the hydrolysis step can be obtained from a lecithin, e.g. soy lecithin, by ethanolic extraction followed by a chromatography step on a suitable support, for example silica. The PC thus obtained preferably has a purity greater than 70% by mass.

[0118] In an alternative embodiment, the LPC-enriched phospholipids supplied in step (a) can be obtained by chemical or enzymatic synthesis, by carrying out an esterification step between glycerophosphocholine or one of its derivatives and a suitable fatty acid, for example, enzymatically. The esterification step can further be followed by one or more purification steps using any known technique (e.g., chromatography-extraction) so as to enrich the LPC content of the final product.

[0119] In step (b), the vehicle is added. This is preferably glycerin or a glycerin / water mixture in a volume ratio of at least 1:1, preferably at least 5:1, or even at least 10:1 or at least 90:1. Step (b) is carried out under stirring, at room temperature or with slight heating, for example between 30°C and 50°C. The amount of vehicle added depends on the desired phospholipid / vehicle mass ratio in the final emulsifying agent. Step (b) generally lasts from 30 minutes to 6 hours.

[0120] It may be difficult to disperse the LPCs directly in the vehicle. Thus, in some embodiments, pre-solubilization in a suitable solvent, for example an alcohol, may be necessary.

[0121] According to a further aspect, the invention relates to a process for preparing an emulsifying agent according to the invention which comprises the following steps:

[0122] (al) the supply of LPC-enriched phospholipids,

[0123] (bl) the solubilization of LPC-enriched phospholipids in an alcohol, preferably a C15 alcohol, and hydroalcoholic mixtures thereof,

[0124] (cl) the addition of the vehicle preferably selected from C2-C5 alkanediols, glycerin, mixtures thereof and aqueous mixtures thereof, and

[0125] (dl) the elimination of alcohol.

[0126] Step (al) is similar to step (a) above. Similarly, step (cl) is similar to step (b) above.

[0127] Step (b) of the process for preparing the emulsifying agent according to the invention is carried out under stirring, at room temperature or with slight heating, for example between 30°C and 50°C. C1-C5 alcohols include, but are not limited to, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, and pentanol and their isomers such as isopropanol and tert-butanol. Preferably, the alcohol used is ethanol. Step (b) generally lasts from a few hours to a few days. 111 is generally added to 10 L of alcohol per kilogram of starting phospholipids.

[0128] In step (d), the alcohol is removed by any suitable technique, in particular by condensation under reduced pressure.

[0129] The possible antioxidant agent or any other excipients or active agents present in the final emulsifying agent may be added at any of the steps described above.

[0130] The process according to the Invention may include one or more additional steps, in particular a bottling step.

[0131] - Uses of the emulsifying agent according to the Invention, and composition of the container

[0132] The emulsifying agent according to the Invention can be used in the preparation of topical compositions in emulsion form for cosmetic or pharmaceutical applications. The emulsifying agent according to the Invention makes it possible to prepare micellar compositions or compositions in emulsion form with increased stability and improved organoleptic properties, including a silky, soft, light, and non-greasy feel, and a fluid texture suitable for administration by spraying.

[0133] Thus, according to a further aspect, the Invention relates to the use of the emulsifying agent as described herein for the preparation of a topical composition as well as the topical composition itself.

[0134] The topical composition may be a pharmaceutical or cosmetic composition and is preferably suitable for application to the skin or to one of its appendages.

[0135] For the purposes of this Invention, the term "skin" means any part of the skin of the human body, in particular the skin of the face, including the lips and eyelids, the scalp, the neck, the skin of the hands and the skin of the feet. Skin appendages include nails, hair, eyebrows, eyelashes and head hair, preferably head hair.

[0136] Preferably, the topical composition is a cosmetic composition. This may include, in particular, a cosmetic skincare product, a hygiene product, a perfume, or a makeup product. By way of example, the topical composition according to the invention may be chosen from a cream, a lotion, a makeup remover, a micellar water (especially a makeup remover), a mask, a shampoo, a conditioner, a shower gel, a lipstick, a foundation, or a tinted cream (e.g., a BB cream). cream), a cream-gel, a mascara, an eyeshadow, an eyeliner, a serum, a perfumed water or mist, an aqueous perfume, a spray or a lotion, especially a sunscreen.

[0137] The emulsifying agent according to the invention is generally present in said topical composition in a content of at most 10% by weight, preferably at most 5.0% by weight and at least 0.01%, for example from 0.1% to 5.0% or from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the topical composition according to the Invention.

[0138] In certain embodiments, the topical composition according to the Invention is an emulsion, preferably an oil-in-water emulsion. The mass ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase is generally at most 1.0, preferably at most 0.5, for example, between 0.01 and 0.2. Preferably, the oil phase (including the excipients and / or active ingredients it comprises) represents at most 45%, preferably at most 25% or at most 15% by weight of the topical composition. The oil phase may be of any type, in particular a vegetable oil, a mineral oil, fatty acid triglycerides, and combinations thereof. Examples of oily carriers are given below.

[0139] In other embodiments, the topical composition according to the Invention is a micellar water or a serum.

[0140] In some embodiments, the topical composition may include one or more additional cosmetically acceptable excipients such as a pH-adjusting agent, an antioxidant, a preservative, an osmotic agent, a thickening or gelling agent, perfumes, and combinations thereof. When the topical composition includes an antioxidant or preservative, these molecules may be present in the oil phase (if present) or in the aqueous phase, depending on their lipophilicity. pH-adjusting agents and osmotic agents are present in the aqueous phase.

[0141] Cosmetically acceptable additional excipients represent at most 15%, preferably at most 10% or at most 5% by weight of the total composition.

[0142] The antioxidant agents of interest include, but are not limited to, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, ascorbic acid and its salts and esters, in particular ascorbyl palmitate or stearate, or plant extracts, in particular rosemary. Generally, the antioxidant agent(s), when present, represent at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 1% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

[0143] Preservatives include, but are not limited to, pentylene glycol, glyceryl caprylate, octanediol, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, and salts thereof, preferably sodium or potassium salts, benzalkonium salts, for example benzalkonium chloride, and combinations thereof. Generally, the Preservatives, when present, represent at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 1% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

[0144] pH adjusting agents include, but are not limited to, organic acids such as acetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid and their salts, and inorganic acids and bases such as hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide. The pH adjusting agents are used in an amount sufficient to achieve a pH suitable for application to the skin, e.g., a pH between 5 and 8.

[0145] Gelling or thickening agents include, but are not limited to, collagen, starches, cellulose and its derivatives, for example HPMC, HPC, hydroxyethylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose (also known as carmellose) and its salts, gelatin, pectin, hyaluronic acid and its salts, alginates, agar-agar, carrageenans, gums such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, konjac gum, tara gum, and mixtures thereof. Generally, the gelling or thickening agent(s), when present, represent at most 5% by weight, preferably at most 1% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. Gelling agents may be present in particular in serums or emulsions according to the invention having a high oil phase content (e.g. at least 10%).

[0146] Osmotic agents include in particular inorganic salts such as NaCl or KCl, and organic salts, in particular carboxylic acids such as citrate salts.

[0147] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also include one or more active agents with a cosmetic effect. Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, the Applicant is of the opinion that the emulsifying agent according to the invention improves the penetration and diffusion of the active ingredients into the skin, particularly through the stratum corneum and into the epidermis, thanks to the fineness of the emulsions or micelles it forms and to the affinity of LPC for the intercellular lipids of the skin. The presence of lipophilic active agents with a cosmetic effect in the oil phase is particularly desirable when the topical composition is a serum.

[0148] The term “cosmetic effect” means any non-therapeutic effect intended to modify and / or improve the appearance of the skin or mucous membranes such as the lips, to protect them from external aggressions, to prevent, treat and / or correct non-pathological alterations of the skin or its appendages and / or to prevent or treat sensations of discomfort of the skin or one of its appendages (in other words, skin discomfort).

[0149] Thus, in certain embodiments, the topical composition comprises one or more active ingredients selected from soothing or anti-redness agents, agents anti-aging agents, including anti-wrinkle agents, anti-spot agents, UV filters, moisturizing agents, sebum-regulating agents, slimming agents, lipid-replenishing or nourishing agents, emollient agents and their combinations.

[0150] Examples of soothing agents include panthenol, allantoin, licochalcone A, bisabolol, avenanthramides, madecassic acid, niacinamide, and extracts of licorice, birch, oats (especially oat seedlings), Epilobium angustifolium, and Calendula officialis.

[0151] Examples of moisturizing agents include urea, pidolic acid (PCA) and its derivatives and salts, calcium gluconate, hyaluronic acid and its salts and other glycosaminoglycans, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-10, PEG-12 or PEG-14, glycerin, propylene glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, butanediol, betaine, citrulline, collagen and its derivatives, and combinations thereof.

[0152] Caffeine can be cited as an example of a slimming agent.

[0153] Examples of nourishing agents include vegetable oils such as oil olive oil, sweet almond oil, evening primrose oil, borage oil, shea butter, fatty acids, triglycerides, and ceramides.

[0154] Examples of emollient agents include coconut oil, cetearyl alcohol and its salts, liquid paraffin, fatty acid polyglycerides such as caprylic / capric triglyceride, propylene glycol and fatty acid diesters such as propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate and their combinations.

[0155] Examples of anti-redness agents include saponins, flavonoids, ruscogenins, esculosides, and extracts containing them, for example Ruscus extracts, as well as certain essential oils, for example rosemary.

[0156] The active agents are generally present in a content of at most 5%, preferably from 0.01% to 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0157] The Applicant has shown that the emulsifying agent according to the Invention is capable of forming very fine and stable emulsions, making it possible to obtain emulsions with a translucent or even transparent appearance. Thus, the Invention also relates to the use of the emulsifying agent according to the invention for the preparation of a topical composition in the form of a translucent or transparent emulsion.

[0158] In this type of application, the emulsifying agent is generally present at a concentration of at most 5% by weight in the topical composition. The emulsion is preferably an oil-in-water emulsion, the oil phase representing at most 20.0%, preferably at most 15% or at most 10.0%, for example at most 5.0% or at most 3.0% such as from 0.1% to 2.0% or from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight of the topical composition.

[0159] The topical composition is preferably a cosmetic composition such as a mist or perfumed water.

[0160] According to a particular aspect, the Invention relates to a topical composition in the form of a translucent or transparent oil-in-water emulsion comprising the emulsifying agent according to the Invention.

[0161] As indicated above, this may include, in particular, a perfumed water or mist. Preferably, said composition is sprayable. In other words, it can be applied to the skin by spraying.

[0162] Preferably, said composition comprises, or consists essentially of:

[0163] - from 0.1% to 20.0%, preferably from 0.1% to 15.0%, more preferably from 0.1% at 10.0% or from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight of an oily phase, and

[0164] - from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight of an emulsifying agent according to the invention

[0165] in water

[0166] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0167] The aqueous phase is typically water. It may be purified water, deionized water, or sterilized water. The aqueous phase may include one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients such as a pH adjusting agent, an antioxidant, a preservative, an osmotic agent, a thickening or gelling agent, and combinations thereof, for example, as described above. In some embodiments, the mist or perfumed water does not contain a thickening or gelling agent, particularly as described herein. In other embodiments, the mist or perfumed water comprises at most 5.0% by weight of a thickening or gelling agent, particularly as described herein.

[0168] In the case of a perfumed water or mist, the oily phase includes odorant molecules, particularly when the composition is a perfumed water or mist. The odorant or perfume molecules may be chosen from synthetic perfumes, perfume molecules of natural origin, or extracts, including plant extracts such as absolutes, essential oils, or extracts obtained by decoction, extraction, or maceration using an organic, hydroalcoholic, or aqueous solvent, or by supercritical fluid extraction.

[0169] Examples of perfume molecules include compounds belonging to the terpene and terpinoid families such as linalool, geraniol, linalool acetate, limonene, alpha-pinene, menthol, nerol, citrollenol and their combinations.

[0170] Examples of fragrant plant extracts include essential oils and absolutes obtained from plant species belonging to one of the genera following: Lavandula, Jasminum, Citrus, Narcissus, Acaci a, Rosa, Polianthes, Chrysopogon, Cymbopogon and Ribes. As species of interest, we can cite lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), lavandin (Lavandula hybrida), mimosa (Acacia dealbata), bitter orange (Citrus aurantium), Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac), Spanish jasmine (Jasminum grandiflorum), tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa), blackcurrant bud (Ribes nigrum), vetiver (Chrysopogon zizanioides), lemongrass (Cymbopogon citratus) rose (Rosa damascena and Rosa centifolia).

[0171] In a preferred embodiment, the oily phase comprises, or consists of, one or more lipophilic plant extracts.

[0172] The oil phase may further comprise an oily carrier, preferably neutral. The oily carrier may be selected from vegetable oils, for example sunflower oil, sweet almond oil, borage oil, rapeseed oil, evening primrose oil, coconut oil, argan oil, or avocado oil, and mineral oils such as paraffin oil. Preferably, the oily carrier is selected from vegetable oils and combinations thereof.

[0173] According to a particular aspect, the perfumed water or mist comprises or consists essentially of:

[0174] - from 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.0% of an oily phase comprising odor molecules,

[0175] - from 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.0% by weight of the emulsifying agent according to the invention,

[0176] - of at most 5.0% by weight of preservative,

[0177] in water.

[0178] The scented water or mist according to the Invention may optionally include:

[0179] - a pH adjusting agent and / or an osmotic agent, and

[0180] - at most 5.0%, preferably from 0.01% to 3.0% by weight of one or more agents active ingredients with a cosmetic effect preferably chosen from soothing agents, moisturizing agents, anti-redness agents, anti-UV agents, vitamins and their combinations.

[0181] The pH of the water or scented mist is preferably within a range of 5.0 to 7.5.

[0182] In certain embodiments, the mist or perfumed water according to the Invention is ethanol-free. In other words, said mist or perfumed water can be used as an alcohol-free perfume composition.

[0183] According to a further aspect, the emulsifying agent according to the invention can be used to homogenously disperse odor molecules in water, for example to obtain perfumed water as indicated above, but also to prepare perfumes having a low ethanol content, e.g. no more than 50% by weight, said perfumes having a translucent or even transparent appearance.

[0184] Thus, according to one particular aspect, the invention also relates to a perfume composition comprising:

[0185] - at most 5% by weight of the emulsifying agent according to the Invention, preferably 0.1% at 3.0% by weight

[0186] -at most 10% by weight of odorant molecules, preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight,

[0187] - at most 50% by weight of ethanol, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight of ethanol

[0188] in water,

[0189] the percentages being expressed in weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0190] In some embodiments, the perfume is alcohol-free and may comprise or consist of

[0191] - at most 5% by weight of the emulsifying agent according to the Invention, preferably 0.1% at 3.0% by weight and

[0192] -at most 10% by weight of odorant molecules, preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight,

[0193] In the water.

[0194] Odor molecules can be of any type. They can be synthetic odor molecules, odor molecules of natural origin, or extracts, in particular plant extracts, as described above, for example essential oils or absolutes.

[0195] The perfume composition may further include one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients, for example an antioxidant, a preservative, a pH adjusting agent, and combinations thereof.

[0196] The Applicant has also shown that the emulsifying agent according to the Invention makes it possible to obtain transparent micellar waters. The emulsifying agent can thus be used as an alternative to compounds comprising polyethylene glycol-type chains such as polysorbates, the use of which is increasingly controversial due to its manufacturing process (heavy chemistry) and potential health risks.

[0197] Thus, according to a further aspect, the Invention also relates to the use of an emulsifying agent according to the Invention for the preparation of a transparent micellar water.

[0198] The invention also relates to micellar water as such. Said micellar water can have various uses in the cosmetic field, in particular as a skin cleansing agent, or as a makeup remover, preferably without rinsing. Said micellar water can also be in the form of a transparent serum. In this case, it may include a thickening or gelling agent. as described herein, including collagen, starches, cellulose and its derivatives, for example HPMC, HPC, hydroxyethylcellulose or carboxymethylcellulose (also known as carmellose) and its salts, gelatin, pectin, hyaluronic acid and its salts, alginates, agar-agar, carrageenans, gums such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, gellan gum, gum arabic, konjac gum, tara gum, and mixtures thereof. Generally, the gelling or thickening agent(s), when present, represent no more than 5% by weight, preferably no more than 1% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. The serum may further include one or more active agents.

[0199] The micellar water or serum according to the Invention comprises, or essentially consists of, not more than 5% by weight of the emulsifying agent in water. The micellar water may further comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable excipients such as a pH adjusting agent, a fragrance, an antioxidant, a preservative, and combinations thereof. These additional excipients represent not more than 10% by weight, preferably 5.0% by weight, of the micellar water.

[0200] Micellar water or serum may further comprise one or more cosmetic effect agents as described above, for example a soothing agent, a moisturizing agent, an anti-redness agent, vitamins and combinations thereof.

[0201] The topical compositions described above, in particular the perfumed mists or waters, serums, micellar waters, and alcohol-reduced perfume compositions according to the invention, are preferably free of a polysorbate-type emulsifying agent. In some embodiments, the emulsifying agent according to the invention is the only emulsifying agent present in the composition.

[0202] In other additional embodiments, the topical composition according to the invention, in particular the mists or perfumed waters, is devoid of thickening agent or gelling agent, as indicated above.

[0203] According to a further aspect, the Invention also relates to a method of preparing a topical composition as described above, in which the emulsifying agent is added under agitation to an aqueous phase and / or an oily phase.

[0204] Other aspects and advantages of the present Invention will become apparent from the following examples, which should be considered illustrative and in no way limiting. EXAMPLES

[0205] 1 / Example 1: Emulsifying agent - Preparation process according to the Invention and characterization.

[0206] A phospholipid mixture enriched in LPC was obtained from commercial soy lecithin under conventional conditions. The soy lecithin was subjected to a chromatography step to obtain a PC-enriched fraction. This PC-enriched fraction was treated with phospholipase A2 to obtain a phospholipid mixture containing an LPC content of at least 80% by weight.

[0207] Preparation of the emulsifying agent

[0208] a) phospholipid mixture enriched in LPC: 20%

[0209] b) Glycerin: 79.5%

[0210] c) Tocopherol: 0.5%

[0211] Parts b) and c) are mixed for 30 min.

[0212] The phospholipid mixture is then added. The resulting mixture is heated to 30°C and kept under stirring for 24h.

[0213] A brownish viscous mixture is obtained.

[0214] 2 / Example 2: Cosmetic compositions

[0215] The following cosmetic compositions were prepared. The stability of the compositions is evaluated as follows:

[0216] - Centrifugation test: the cosmetic preparation is packaged in tubes Centrifuge transparencies are used. The tubes are then centrifuged for 20 minutes at 3000 rpm. The tubes are then visually inspected. If no phase shift is observed, the emulsion is considered stable.

[0217] - 40°C stability test: The cosmetic preparation is packaged in bottles made of The vials are placed in transparent glass containers and then stored in an oven at 45°C for 3 months. After this period, the vials are observed. If the product has not separated and has not undergone any degradation, the product is considered stable.

[0218] The size of the micelles or droplets was evaluated by optical microscopy. The droplet size was measured on day 7 after manufacture in the different formulations with a magnification of 250.

[0219] a) Preparation of a micellar water according to the Invention and comparison with a micellar water obtained with lecithin.

[0220] The following micellar waters are prepared:

[0221] Micellar water according to the Invention:

[0222] [Tables 1] Ingredients % by mass A Water 92.7% Pentylene glycol 2.0% Sodium benzoate 0.3% Emulsifying agent according to the Invention (Glycerin AND lysophosphatidylcholine AND Tocopherol) 5.0%

[0223] Comparison

[0224] [Tables2] Ingredients % by mass A Water 92.7% Pentylene glycol 2.0% Sodium benzoate 0.3% Soy lecithin 1.0% Glycerin 4.0%

[0225] Results:

[0226] The micellar water obtained with the emulsifying agent according to the Invention is a liquid formula, slightly colored and completely transparent. In comparison, the micellar water obtained with an equivalent amount of lecithin is yellowish and completely opaque.

[0227] b) preparation of an emulsion according to the invention and comparison with an emulsion obtained with lecithin in the presence of a gelling agent

[0228] Emulsion according to the Invention:

[0229] [Tables3] Ingredients % by mass A Water 71.7 Pentylene glycol 2.0 Sodium benzoate 0.3 Glycerin 4.0 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.0 Soy lecithin 1.0 B Caprylic / capric triglyceride 9.0 Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 11.0

[0230] Comparison

[0231] [Tableaux4] Ingredients % by mass A Water 75.7 Pentylene glycol 2.0 Sodium benzoate 0.3 Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.0 Emulsifier according to the invention 1.0 B Caprylic / capric triglyceride 9.0 Propylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate 11.0

[0232] Results:

[0233] The emulsion obtained with the emulsifying agent of Example 1 is stable. No phase separation is observed after centrifugation at 3000 rpm for 20 min. The emulsion is white and smooth. The emulsion has a soft and silky feel.

[0234] The emulsion obtained with soy lecithin is yellowish and has a soft but oily feel. The emulsion separates after centrifugation.

[0235] The photograph obtained by optical microscopy of the emulsion with soy lecithin (1%) at J+12, magnification x250 is presented in [Fig.1]

[0236] The photograph obtained by optical microscopy of the emulsion with the emulsifier according to the invention (1%) at J+12, magnification x250 is presented in [Fig.2].

[0237] These photographs show that a much finer emulsion is obtained with the emulsifier according to the invention, allowing for much greater stability, a whiter appearance and a better feel.

[0238] c) Clear perfumed water

[0239] The following perfumed water was prepared as follows:

[0240] [Tables5] Phase Ingredients % by mass A Water q.s. Sodium benzoate (preservative) 0.3% Pentylene glycol (preservative) 2.0% B Emulsifying agent according to the Invention (Glycerin AND 1-isophosphatidylcholine AND Tocopherol) 0.5% C Fragrance 0.35% D Lactic acid 20% Added until a pH of 5-6 is obtained

[0241] Steps:

[0242] - Prepare phase A, stir at 300 rpm for 5 min

[0243] - Mix phases B and C together, then add to phase A. Keep under agitation at 600 rpm for 10 min.

[0244] - If necessary, adjust the pH to 5-6 by adding lactic acid (while stirring). Results#:

[0245] A clear, sprayable perfumed water is obtained. The emulsion is stable for at least 3 months at 45°C. This perfumed water is easily applied to hair or Spray onto the skin. After the water evaporates, the skin and hair remain fragrant. The product leaves a film on the hair, improving its hydration and giving it a silkier feel.

[0246] d) Transparent serum according to the Invention

[0247] [Tableauxô] Phase Ingredients % by mass Al Water q.s.p. Sodium benzoate (preservative) 0.30% A2 Pentylene glycol (preservative) 2.00% Xanthan gum (XXX) 0.40% Sclerotium gum (XXX) 0.40% Emulsifying agent according to the Invention (Glycerin AND 1-isophosphatidylcholine AND Tocopherol) 1.0% Skin protectant (Glycerin AND Water AND Porphyridium Cruentum extract) 2.0% Lactic acid 20% Added until a pH of 5-6 is obtained

[0248] - Mix the ingredients of phase A1, stir at 300 rpm for 2 min

[0249] - Mix the gums and pentylene glycol. Add the mixture to phase Al Under agitation (600 rpm). Control the agitation speed to avoid the formation of bubbles.

[0250] - Add the emulsifying agent to phase Al while stirring at 600 rpm for 5 min.

[0251] - Add the protective agent below 1040 rpm.

[0252] - If necessary, adjust the pH to 5-6 by adding lactic acid (while stirring). Results#:

[0253] A transparent, slightly pink serum is obtained. The serum is stable for at least 3 months at 45°C. The serum has a soft, non-greasy feel on the skin and provides a sensation of freshness and hydration.

Claims

Demands

1. Emulsifying agent characterized in that it comprises, or consists essentially of, - 5% to 30% by weight of phospholipids, - 70% to 95% by weight of a solvent selected from the group consisting of glycerin, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, mixtures thereof and aqueous mixtures thereof - optionally an antioxidant agent, and in that the phospholipid composition of said emulsifying agent is such that: - lysophosphatidylcholines (LPC) represent at least 75% by weight of said phospholipids and phosphatidylcholine (PC) represents at most 2.5% by weight of the total weight of said phospholipids.

2. Emulsifying agent according to claim 1, characterized in that its phospholipid composition is such that: - 1-lysophosphatidylcholine (1-LPC) represents at least 3% by weight, preferably from 8% to 13% by weight of the total weight of said phospholipids, - 2-lysophosphatidylcholine (2-LPC) represents at least 75% by weight, preferably from 75% to 90% by weight of the total weight of said phospholipids.

3. Emulsifying agent according to any one of the preceding claims comprising from 10% to 25% by weight of LPC, preferably from 12% to 18% by weight of LPC.

4. Emulsifying agent according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized in that it comprises or consists essentially of: - 15% to 25% by weight of phospholipids, - 75% to 84.9% by weight of a solvent selected from glycerin or a glycerin / water mixture in a volume ratio of at least 1:1, preferably at least 5:1, and - optionally 0.1% to 3.0% by weight of an antioxidant such as tocopherol, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the emulsifying agent, and - in that the LPCs represent at least 85% by weight of the phospholipids present in the emulsifying agent.

5. Use of the emulsifying agent according to any one of claims 1-4 for the preparation of an oil-in-water emulsion or translucent micellar water, preferably transparent.

6. Use according to claim 5 characterized in that the emulsifying agent further improves the organoleptic properties of said emulsion or micellar water, in particular to provide a soft and non-greasy feel.

7. Use according to claim 5 characterized in that the emulsifying agent further increases the penetration and diffusion of a lipophilic active agent into the skin.

8. Use according to claim 5 characterized in that the emulsifying agent further stabilizes the dispersion of lipophilic odorant molecules in water.

9. Use of the emulsifying agent according to any one of claims 1-4 for the preparation of a perfume having an ethanol content of not more than 50% by weight.

10. Topical composition preferably cosmetic characterized in that it comprises the emulsifying agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4, preferably in a content of at most 10% by weight.

11. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10 characterized in that it is a transparent oil-in-water emulsion.

12. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it is a perfumed water or a transparent perfumed mist.

13. Cosmetic composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises or consists essentially of - from 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.0% of an oily phase comprising odorant molecules, - from 0.1% to 5.0%, preferably from 0.5% to 2.0% by weight of the emulsifying agent as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, - optionally of not more than 5.0% by weight of preservative agent, in water.

14. Micellar water or transparent topical serum characterized in that it comprises the emulsifying agent according to any one of claims 1 to 4 in a content of at most 5% by weight in water.

15. Composition of an aqueous perfume comprising:

16. - at most 5% by weight of the emulsifying agent as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, -at most 10% by weight of odorant molecules, preferably from 0.1% to 5.0% by weight, - a maximum of 50% by weight of ethanol, preferably from 10% to 45% by weight of ethanol in water, the percentages are expressed as a percentage of the total weight of the composition. A process for preparing an emulsifying agent according to any one of claims 1-4 comprising the following steps: (a) the supply of phospholipids comprising at least 75% by weight of LPC and at most 2.5% of PC relative to the total weight of said phospholipids, (b) the addition of a vehicle selected from 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, mixtures thereof and aqueous mixtures thereof, so as to obtain a dispersion. said process may include a pre-solubilization step of the phospholipids in an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic mixture before dispersion in the vehicle and the removal of the alcohol, once the dispersion has been obtained.

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