WASHING AND FOAMING COMPOSITION FOR KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLUCAMIDE, A SPECIFIC BLEND OF SURFACTANTS AND AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE
A sulfate-free hair composition using acylisethionates, amino acid derivatives, and glucamide compounds addresses foam and conditioning issues, enhancing hair manageability and reducing environmental impact.
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- FR · FR
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2024-10-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-24
AI Technical Summary
Existing hair washing compositions based on anionic surfactants and silicones suffer from inadequate foam quality, rapid re-greasyness, hair weighing down, and loss of volume, while also having a negative environmental impact due to petrochemical use.
A composition comprising acylisethionates, amino acid derivatives, glucamide compounds, and cationic polysaccharides, which provides improved foam quality and conditioning properties without sulfate surfactants, using renewable and natural ingredients.
The composition achieves excellent cleansing, lightness, and manageability of hair with abundant, creamy foam, while reducing environmental impact by minimizing petrochemical use.
Abstract
Description
Title of the invention: WASHING AND FOAMING COMPOSITION FOR KERATINIC FIBERS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE GLUCAMIDE, A PARTICULAR MIXTURE OF SURFACTANTS AND AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC POLYSACCHARIDE
[0001] The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition, in particular a foaming composition for washing keratinous materials comprising several anionic surfactants, at least one glucamide compound, at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0002] The invention also relates to the cosmetic treatment process for keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, comprising the application to said keratinous materials of the composition according to the invention.
[0003] For cleaning and / or washing keratin fibers such as hair, the use of detergent compositions (such as shampoos) based primarily on surfactants is common. These compositions are applied to wet hair, and the lather generated by massaging or rubbing with the hands allows, after rinsing with water, the removal of various types of dirt initially present on the hair or skin.
[0004] Also, it is known to offer shampoos, especially for hair sensitized or weakened to varying degrees following the action of atmospheric agents or repeated mechanical or chemical treatments, containing conditioning agents such as silicones, to give keratin fibers conditioning properties, for example a better feel, more suppleness or even ease of detangling.
[0005] However, these washing compositions based on anionic surfactants, generally of the sulfate type, and silicones have several disadvantages such as: the foam start-up, the quantity of foam generated and especially the quality and texture of the foam, are considered insufficient.
[0006] In addition, repeated applications of these silicone-based compositions often result in an unpleasant feel to the hair (rapid re-greasyness of the hair), a loss of volume (weighing down of the hair) and nervousness of the hair, and sometimes a lack of shine.
[0007] Furthermore, the formulation of environmentally friendly cosmetic products, that is to say, products whose design and development take into account the issues Environmental issues are becoming a major concern in order to help address global challenges.
[0008] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions that make it possible to respond to these environmental challenges.
[0009] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions with a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or with a good naturalness index and / or of natural origin and more particularly of plant origin, while reducing the use of petrochemical compounds.
[0010] From these observations arose the interest in developing a composition intended for the treatment of keratin fibers, advantageously without anionic surfactant of the sulfate type ("sulfate-free" in English), exhibiting good cosmetic properties, improved qualities of use, and capable of washing keratin fibers without weighing them down so as to provide good conditioning properties to the keratin fibers.
[0011] There is therefore a real need to develop compositions that are more environmentally friendly, preferably without anionic surfactants of the sulfate type, allowing for excellent washing and usage properties, in particular in terms of foam initiation, quality and quantity of foam generated, and more particularly foam texture, notably exhibiting a nice creaminess.
[0012] It is also of interest that these compositions give good conditioning properties to keratin fibers, in particular in terms of flexibility, smoothness to the touch, detangling and coating / sheathing of keratin fibers.
[0013] These objectives are achieved with the present invention, which relates in particular to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising: (i) at least one first anionic surfactant selected from acylisethionates, (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant selected from amino acid derivatives, (iii) at least one glucamide compound, (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0014] It has been observed that the composition according to the invention has excellent cleansing power on keratin fibers. In particular, hair treated with the composition according to the invention is particularly clean and exhibits good cosmetic properties. It effectively removes dirt and provides a clean visual effect on the keratin fibers.
[0015] It has also been observed that hair treated in this way is particularly light, soft to the touch, smooth to the touch, supple, easy to detangle and more manageable. The composition according to the invention provides coating to the hair without weighing it down.
[0016] Furthermore, it has been observed that the composition according to the invention exhibits good performance qualities, notably good foam formation, and good foam quality and quantity. It has been particularly noted that the composition according to the invention generates a large quantity of foam. The foam generated by the composition according to the invention is smooth, creamy, firm, and abundant, which is particularly desirable for users.
[0017] The invention also relates to a treatment process, particularly cosmetic, of keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous fibers a composition according to the invention.
[0018] Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will become even clearer upon reading the description and example that follows.
[0019] In this description, and unless otherwise indicated: - the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for it; - the expression "between... and..." is equivalent to the expression "ranging from... to..." and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included; - By the expression "greater than" and respectively the expression "less than" in the meaning of the present invention, we mean an open interval that is strictly greater than, respectively strictly less than, and therefore that the bounds are not included. - For the purposes of this application, "keratinous materials" means more particularly 1) the skin of the body and / or face (including the scalp) and / or nails, and 2) keratinous fibers; and even more particularly the scalp and hair. - For the purposes of this application, "keratin fibers" refers particularly to human keratin fibers such as hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferably hair, eyebrows and eyelashes, and even more preferably hair. - For the purposes of this invention, "hair" means the hair on the head. This term does not include body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty acid" means an organic acid comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - For the purposes of this application, "fatty alcohol" means an alcohol comprising in its structure a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. - By "(poly)oxyalkylated compound", for the purposes of the present invention, means a compound comprising one or more ethylene oxide groups and / or propylene oxide groups; preferably the number of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide groups can vary from 1 to 150, more preferably the (poly)oxyalkylated compound does not include a glycerol group; - By "(poly)glycerol compound", for the purposes of the present invention, we mean a compound comprising one or more glycerol groups; preferably the number of glycerol groups can vary from 0 to 30; - By "anionic surfactant" is meant a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. In this description, an entity is qualified as "anionic" when it possesses at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium, pH for example) and does not contain a cationic charge. The term "sulfate anionic surfactant" refers to an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate functional group (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and possibly also comprising one or more other acid-derived functional groups, such as carboxylic acid or carboxylate groups (-COOH or -COO), sulfonate groups (-SO3H or -SO3), and / or phosphate groups. For example, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ethers sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, and salts of these compounds are sulfate anionic surfactants. The alkyl groups in these compounds, cited as examples, have from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and the aryl group may be a phenyl or benzyl group. These compounds cited as examples can be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs. - For the purposes of the invention, "non-sulfate anionic surfactant" means a surfactant that does not fall within the definition of "sulfate anionic surfactant" as defined above. - It is also understood according to the invention that: * Carboxylic anionic surfactants include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), but do not include a sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), nor a sulfate function (-OSO3H or -0S03 ) ; * Anionic sulfonate surfactants include at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and may optionally include in addition one or more carboxylic or carboxylate functions (-COOH or -COO) and / or phosphates, but do not include a sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3); * Anionic phosphate surfactants include at least one phosphoric or phosphate function (-OPO3H2 or -OPO32), but do not include a carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), nor a sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), nor a sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3).
[0020] In other words: - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as an anionic sulfate surfactant; - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as an anionic sulfate surfactant; - an anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfonic or sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as a non-sulfate anionic sulfonate surfactant; - An anionic surfactant comprising at least one sulfate group (-OSO3H or -OSO3), and at least one sulfonic or sulfonate group (-SO3H or -SO3), and at least one carboxylic or carboxylate group (-COOH or -COO), is considered, within the meaning of the invention and unless otherwise indicated, as an anionic sulfate surfactant.
[0021] Acylisethionates: The composition according to the invention comprises at least a first anionic surfactant selected from acylisethionates.
[0022] According to the invention, acylisethionates include acylmethylisethionates.
[0023] Preferably, the acylisethionate(s) are chosen from those of the following formula (II): - R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, consisting of 4 to 30 carbon atoms; - R' represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and - M+ is a cosmetically acceptable cationic counterion, chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0024] Preferably, the radical R of formula (II) represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, better from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
[0025] Preferably, the first anionic surfactant(s) (i) are selected from a) cocoyl methylisethionate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl methylisethionate, b) lauroyl methylisethionate salts, in particular sodium lauroyl methylisethionate, c) cocoyl isethionate salts, in particular sodium cocoyl isethionate, d) lauroyl isethionate salts, in particular sodium lauroyl isethionate, e) and mixtures thereof.
[0026] More preferably, the first anionic surfactant (i) according to the invention is a cocoyl isethionate salt; and more particularly sodium cocoyl isethionate.
[0027] Preferably, acylisethionates of formula (II) are in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts; more preferably in the form of alkali metal salts, and more particularly in the form of a sodium salt.
[0028] The acylisethionates according to the invention may optionally be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated, and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0029] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) selected from the acylisethionates present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, even better 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0030] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) of formula (II) present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, even better 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0031] Amino acid derivatives: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant selected from amino acid derivatives.
[0032] The term "amino acid-derived surfactant" means a surfactant formed by combining at least one hydrophobic group, preferably a hydrocarbon chain containing 4 to 30 carbon atoms, with at least one amino acid.
[0033] Anionic surfactants derived from amino acids are derived from amino acids, such as (methyl)taurine, glutamic acid, (methyl)alanine, (methyl)glycine or aspartic acid.
[0034] Advantageously, the anionic surfactant(s) derived from amino acids are chosen from those of the following formula (III): (III) in which: - Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; - R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a -CH2COO M+ group, or -COO M+, with M+ as described below; - n represents an integer equal to 0, 1 or 2; - X represents a -COO or -SO3 group; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0035] Preferably, the radical Ri in formula (III) above represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0036] More preferably, anionic surfactants derived from amino acids are chosen from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl [3-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better from N-acyl sarcosinates.
[0037] The N-acyl taurates are preferably chosen from those of the following formula (Ilia): (Hla) in which: - Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0038] Preferably, the radical Ri in the formula (Ilia) above represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0039] As examples of anionic surfactants of the N-acyl taurate type, we can in particular cite: potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl myristoyl taurate, sodium methyl oleoyl taurate, sodium methyl palmitoyl taurate, sodium methyl stearoyl taurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0040] More preferably, the N-acyl taurates are selected from potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium caproyl methyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from potassium cocoyl taurate, potassium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium cocoyl taurate, sodium lauroyl taurate, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate, sodium methyl lauroyl taurate, and mixtures thereof.
[0041] The N-acyl glutamates are preferably chosen from those of the following formula (Illb): (Illb) - Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0042] Preferably, the radical Ri in the formula (Illb) above represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0043] A titre d’exemples de tensioactifs anioniques de type N-acyl glutamate, on peut notamment citer : dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, et leurs mélanges.
[0044] More preferably, the N-acyl glutamates are chosen from disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, and their mixtures; more preferably still among disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and their mixtures.
[0045] N-acyl alaninates or N-acyl [3-alaninates are preferably selected from those of the following formula (IIIc) or (IIIld): (IIIc) R? (Illd) in which: - Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; - R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0046] Preferably, the radical Ri in the formulas (IIIc) and (Illd) above represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0047] More preferably, N-acylalaninate and N-acyl [3-alaninate are selected from potassium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, potassium myristoyl [3-alaninate, potassium lauroyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium cocoyl alaninate, sodium cocoyl methyl [3-alaninate, sodium myristoyl methyl [3-alaninate, and mixtures thereof.
[0048] The N-acyl glycinates are preferably chosen from those of the following formula (Ille): (Ille) 'COO M* H in which: - Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0049] Preferably, the radical Ri in the formula (Ille) above represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0050] More preferably, the N-acyl glycinates are chosen from sodium palmitoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glycinate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium myristoyl glycinate, potassium lauroyl glycinate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, and mixtures thereof.
[0051] The N-acyl sarcosinates are preferably chosen from those of the following formula (Illf): o <IIIf) he "COO" M* L CHy in which: - Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0052] Preferably, the radical Ri in the formula (Illf) above represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0053] Examples of anionic surfactants of the N-acyl sarcosinate type include: potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof.
[0054] More preferably, the anionic surfactants N-acyl sarcosinate are chosen from potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; and even better sodium cocoyl sarcosinate.
[0055] The N-acyl aspartates are preferably chosen from those of the following formula (Illg): (nig) - Ri represents a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0056] Preferably, the radical Ri in the formula (Illg) above represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably still from 8 to 18, carbon atoms.
[0057] As examples of anionic surfactants of the N-acyl aspartate type, mention may in particular be made of: sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, disodium lauroyl aspartate, disodium myristoyl aspartate, disodium cocoyl aspartate, disodium caproyl aspartate, potassium lauroyl aspartate, potassium myristoyl aspartate, potassium cocoyl aspartate, potassium caproyl aspartate, dipotassium lauroyl aspartate, dipotassium myristoyl aspartate, dipotassium cocoyl aspartate, dipotassium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
[0058] More preferably, the N-acyl aspartates are chosen from sodium lauroyl aspartate, sodium myristoyl aspartate, sodium cocoyl aspartate, sodium caproyl aspartate, and mixtures thereof.
[0059] The formulas (III) and (Ilia) to (Illg) above encompass the acid form of the surfactants (i.e. M+ represents a hydrogen atom).
[0060] More preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one second anionic surfactant selected from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates and mixtures thereof; even more preferably from N-acyl glutamates of formula (Illb), N-acyl sarcosinates of formula (Illf) as described above, and mixtures thereof; better still from N-acyl sarcosinates of formula (Illf) as described above; better still from lauroyl sarcosinates, cocoyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; even better still from potassium lauroyl sarcosinate, potassium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; or even from sodium cocoyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and mixtures thereof; and preferably the composition according to the present invention further comprises sodium cocoyl sarcosinate as a second anionic surfactant.
[0061] Preferably, when present in the composition, the total content of the second anionic surfactant(s) chosen from among the amino acid derivatives present in the composition is within the range of 0.01% to 20%. weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better from 1% to 8% by weight, even better from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0062] Preferably, when present in the composition, the total content of the second anionic surfactant(s) of formula (III) above present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, even better 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0063] Preferably, when present in the composition, the total content of the second anionic surfactant(s) chosen from those of formula (Illb) and (Illf) above present in the composition is within the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably still from 0.5% to 10% by weight, better from 1% to 8% by weight, even better from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] Preferably, when present in the composition, the total content of the second anionic surfactant(s) of formula (Illf) above present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, even better 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0065] Glucamide compounds: The composition according to the invention comprises at least one glucamide compound.
[0066] The glucamide compounds usable according to the invention are described in particular in patent applications WO 92 06154, US 5194639 and DE 44 43 645.
[0067] Preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from among the acyl-glucamides, more preferably those having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms (including the carbon atom of the carbonyl group -C(O)-), preferably from 6 to 22, better from 6 to 20, even better from 6 to 14.
[0068] More preferably, the glucamide compounds are chosen from those with the following general formula (A): in which: - The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, where N is the nitrogen atom of the glucamine. - Ri represents an alkyl radical in CrC2, preferably a methyl, - R2 represents an alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, in C3-C29; preferably in C5-C2i, more preferably in C7-C[9; and possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.
[0069] Even more preferably: - The Gl-N group represents a glucamine, where N is the nitrogen atom of the glucamine. - Ri represents a methyl group, and - R2 represents a linear alkyl radical in C3-C29; preferably in C5-C2i, more preferably in C7-Ci9, better in C7-Ci7, better still in C9-Ci5, even better in Cio-Ci3, always better in Cn-Ci3; and possibly substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups -OH.
[0070] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least two glucamide compounds.
[0071] For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "glucamide" and "glucamine" encompass all of their respective isomers.
[0072] Furthermore, the glucamide compounds according to the invention are also characterized as being non-ionic surfactants.
[0073] Among the glucamide compounds that can be used according to the invention, the following may be mentioned in particular, alone or in mixtures: - myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide, sunfloweroyl (sunfloweroyl) methyl glucamide, - methylglucamide oleoyl oleate, methylglucamide stearoyl stearate, methylglucamide tocopheryl succinate.
[0074] Particular preference is given to glucamide compounds selected from, alone or in mixture, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, cocoyl methyl glucamide, nonanoyl methyl glucamide, oleyl methyl glucamide and sunflower (sunflower) methyl glucamide.
[0075] Among the mixtures of glucamide compounds, lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide and capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide are particularly preferred.
[0076] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least capryloyl methyl glucamide, caproyl methyl glucamide, myristoyl methyl glucamide, lauroyl methyl glucamide, the lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide mixture and / or the capryloyl / caproyl methyl glucamide mixture.
[0077] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) present in the composition is in the range of 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0078] Preferably, the total content of acyl-glucamide compound(s) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0079] Preferably, the total content of acyl-glucamide compound(s) whose hydrocarbon chain comprises between 4 and 30 carbon atoms, present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0080] Preferably, the total content of glucamide compound(s) of formula (A) present in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0081] Preferably, the total content of lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamide mixture in the composition ranges from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.8 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0082] Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant.
[0083] In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), preferably non-siliconized, used in the composition according to the present invention may be, in particular, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quatemized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
[0084] In particular, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)sulfobetaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(Ci-C6)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)-amidalkyl(Ci-C6)sulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof, may be cited.
[0085] Among the usable secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, possibly quantified, as defined above, we may also mention the compounds with the following respective structures (III) and (IV): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO , M+, X (III) formula (III), in which: - Ra represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 derived from an acid RaCOOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, preferably Ra represents a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group; - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; - Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; - M+ represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion, or an ion derived from an organic amine; and - X represents an organic or inorganic anionic counter ion, such as one chosen from among halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)- or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate; or else M+ and X are absent; Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (IV) formula (IV), in which: - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'; - B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY', with z = 1 or 2; - X' represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom; - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ', -CH2CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z'; - Z' represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra' represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra'-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, preferably Ra' an alkyl group, especially in Cp and its iso form, an unsaturated Cp group.
[0086] These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.
[0087] As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.
[0088] Compounds of formula (V) can also be used: Ra' '-NHCH(Y”)-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)nN(Rd)(Re) (V) formula (V), in which: - Y” represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH2-CH(OH)SO3H or the group CH2 CH(OH)SO3-Z”; - Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical in C1 to C4; - Z” represents a cationic counter ion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine; - Ra” represents an alkyl or alkenyl group in C10 to C30 of an acid Ra”-COOH preferably present in coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil; and - n and n', independently of each other, denote an integer from 1 to 3.
[0089] Among the compounds of formula (V) we can mention the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.
[0090] These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.
[0091] Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, such as cocamidopropylbetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof are advantageously used.
[0092] More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; more preferably still from cocobetaine, cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof.
[0093] Even better, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from among the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, and particularly cocamidopropylbetaine.
[0094] Preferably, the total content of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) in the composition is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0095] Preferably, the total content of alkyl(C8-C20)betaine(s) and alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaine(s) in the composition is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0096] Preferably, the total content of alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaine(s) in the composition is in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, more preferably 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0097] Cationic polysaccharides: The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one cationic polysaccharide.
[0098] According to the invention, the cationic polysaccharide(s) usable in the composition are different from the ingredients previously described.
[0099] For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "cationic polysaccharide" means any non-siliconized polymer (not comprising silicon atoms) of the polysaccharide type, containing cationic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and / or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0100] Cationic polysaccharides are not siliconized (do not include a Si-O motif).
[0101] Among the cationic polysaccharides according to the invention, mention can be made of cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0102] Among cationic polysaccharides, particular examples include cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
[0103] Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR 1 492 597, and examples include polymers marketed under the names "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium compounds of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group, such as polyquatemium-10.
[0104] Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in US patent 4,131,576, and examples include hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl-, or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyl-diallylammonium, such as, for example, polyquaternium-4. The marketed products meeting this definition are more specifically the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.
[0105] Among the cationic cellulose derivatives, cationic associative celluloses can also be used, which can be chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0106] Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyls, linear or branched alkylaryls, preferably linear or branched alkyls, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24, or even 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
[0107] Preferably, hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) may be cited: in which: - R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcN+-, Q in which Ra, Rb, Rc, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; - R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q' in which R'a, R'b, R'c, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl, linear or branched, in C1 to C30, preferably an alkyl, and Q' represents an anionic counterion such as a halide like a chloride or bromide; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl, linear or branched, in C8 to C30; - n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10,000.
[0108] Preferably, in formula (Ib), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, from C8 to C30; better still from C10 to C24, or even from C10 to C14; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched alkyl group from C1 to C4, especially a methyl group.
[0109] Preferably, in formula (Ib), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b, R'c represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, from C8 to C30; better still from C10 to C24, or even from C10 to Cu; the dodecyl radical (C12) is a particularly good example. Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched alkyl group from C1 to C4, especially a methyl group.
[0110] Even better, R can be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q' and -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q', preferably a group -N+(CH3)3, Q'. Even better, R' can be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q'. Aryl radicals preferably refer to phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
[0111] Examples include polymers with the following INCI names: - Polyquaternium-24, such as the QUATRISOFT LM 200® product, marketed by the company AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product CRODACEL QM®; - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (alkyl in Ci2), such as the product CRODACEL QL® and - PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (alkyl in Ci8) such as the product CRODACEL QS®, marketed by the company CRODA.
[0112] Also citeable are hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide, preferably R representing trimethylammonium chloride Cf,(CH3)3N+- and R' representing dimethyldodecylammonium chloride C1,(CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-. This type of polymer is known by the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; commercial products include SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® polymers such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from AMERCHOL / DOW CHEMICAL.
[0113] More particularly, polymers of formula (Ib) are, for example, those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs, preferably between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs. SOFTCAT POLYMER SX-1300X with a viscosity between 1000 and 2000 cPs can also be used.
[0114] Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in US patents 3589578 and 4031307, and examples include guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For instance, guar gums modified with a salt (e.g., a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed, among others, under the names JAGUAR C13 S, JAGUAR C 15, JAGUAR C 17, JAGUAR Cl62, or JAGUAR EXCEL by the company RHODIA. Such compounds have the INCI names guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride or hydroxypropyl guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.
[0115] Preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from associative or non-associative cationic polysaccharides; more preferably non-associative cationic polysaccharides.
[0116] More preferably, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof.
[0117] More preferably still, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic galactomannan gums.
[0118] In a particularly preferred manner, the cationic polysaccharide(s) are chosen from cationic guar gums.
[0119] Preferably, the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) (v) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.08% to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0120] Preferably, the total content of cationic galactomannan gum(s) in the composition according to the invention is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.08% to 3% by weight, even better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0121] Alpha-olefin sulfonates: Preferably, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one third anionic surfactant selected from alpha-olefin-sulfonates.
[0122] For the purposes of the invention, the third anionic surfactants chosen from among the alpha-olefin-sulfonates are different from said first and second anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) previously described.
[0123] Preferably, the third anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from linear alpha-olefin-sulfonates.
[0124] Preferably, the third anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alpha-olefin-sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and most particularly 14 to 18 carbon atoms.
[0125] The alpha-olefin-sulfonates according to the invention may optionally be polyoxyalkylated, in particular polyoxyethylated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide motifs, better from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0126] Sulfonate olefins are known compounds and are described in particular in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Chemical Industries or in US patent 8211850. These compounds are generally obtained by sulfonation of long-chain alpha-olefins.
[0127] The linear α-olefin sulfonates according to the invention generally comprise, in a known manner, a mixture of linear sulfonate alkenes, in particular of formula (A), optionally mixed with linear sulfonate hydroxyalkanes, in particular of formula (B).
[0128] Preferably, the linear sulfonate alkenes have the formula (A): (A) JF ST in which: - R represents a saturated linear alkyl group containing 5 to 30 carbon atoms; - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better equal to 1 or 2, always better equal to 2; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine.
[0129] Preferably, the radical R of formula (A) represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 21, more preferably from 9 to 19, more preferably still from 11 to 15, carbon atoms.
[0130] Preferably, the linear sulfonate alkenes of formula (A) are in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts; more preferably in the form of alkali metal salts, and more particularly in the form of sodium salts.
[0131] More preferably, the linear sulfonate alkenes according to the invention are of formula (A'): o (A,) H _ R-CH—CH=CH—CH—S-0 M+ H O in which: - R is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and even better 10 to 12 carbon atoms; - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0132] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one third anionic surfactant selected from the linear sulfonate alkenes of formula (A) above.
[0133] More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one third anionic surfactant selected from the linear sulfonate alkenes of formula (A') above.
[0134] Preferably, the linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates have the formula (B): R'-CH2-CH(OH)-CH2-(CH2)n-SO3 M'+ (B) in which: - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms, notably 6 to 20 carbon atoms, or even 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and even better 10 to 14 carbon atoms; - n' is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better equal to 1 or 2, always better equal to 2; and - M'+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0135] More preferably, linear hydroxyalkane sulfonates have the formula (B'): R'—CH—CH—CH —CH — SO M'+ " । .. - - OH q in which: - R' is a saturated linear alkyl radical comprising 4 to 20 carbon atoms, notably 6 to 18 carbon atoms, or even 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and even better 10 to 12 carbon atoms; - M'+ is a cationic counterion chosen from among a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, better among alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better among alkali metal atoms such as sodium.
[0136] Preferably, R and R' are identical.
[0137] Preferably, M and M' are identical.
[0138] Preferably, the third anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from linear alpha-olefin-sulfonates comprising 8 to 28 carbon atoms, better 10 to 24 carbon atoms, even better 12 to 20 carbon atoms, always better 14 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular in the form of alkali metal salts, and more particularly in the form of sodium salts.
[0139] Examples of commercial products include those offered under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40A or BIO-TERGE AS-40HA by STEPAN, or CALSOFT AOS-40 by PILOT CHEMICAL, or NANSA LSS38 / AV by HUNTSMAN.
[0140] Preferably, when present, the total content of the third anionic surfactant(s) chosen from among the alpha-olefin-sulfonates present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, better 2% to 15% by weight, even better 5% to 12% by weight, or even 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0141] Preferably, when present, the total content of the third anionic surfactant(s) chosen from among the linear alpha-olefin-sulfonates present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, better 2% to 15% by weight, even better 5% to 12% by weight, or even 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0142] Preferably, when present, the total content of linear sulfonate alkene(s) of formula (A) present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, better 2% to 15% by weight, even better 5% to 12% by weight, or even 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0143] Preferably, when present, the total content of linear sulfonate alkene(s) of formula (A') present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably 1% to 20% by weight, better 2% to 15% by weight, even better 5% to 12% by weight, or even 7% to 11% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0144] Preferably, when present, the weight ratio of the total content of the third anionic surfactant(s) selected from the alpha-olefin-sulfonates to the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) (i) selected from the acylisethionates, is in the range of 0.1 to 20, more preferably 1 to 10, more preferably 1.5 to 8, better 2 to 5.
[0145] Preferably, when present, the weight ratio of the total content of the third anionic surfactant(s) selected from linear alpha-olefin-sulfonates to the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) (i) selected from acylisethionates of formula (II), is in the range of 0.1 to 20, more preferably 1 to 10, more preferably 1.5 to 8, better 2 to 5.
[0146] Preferably, when present, the weight ratio of the total content of the third anionic surfactant(s) selected from linear sulfonate alkenes of formula (A) to the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) (i) selected from acylisethionates of formula (II), is in the range of 0.1 to 20, more preferably 1 to 10, more preferably 1.5 to 8, better 2 to 5.
[0147] Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of anionic sulfate surfactant.
[0148] The expression "devoid of sulfate anionic surfactant" means that the composition according to the invention does not comprise any sulfate anionic surfactant (0% by weight), or that the sulfate anionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are comprised in a total content less than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 0.05% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. More preferably still, the composition according to the invention is free of sulfate anionic surfactant (0% by weight).
[0149] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactants present in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0150] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactants present in the composition ranges from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0151] Advantageously, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0152] Preferably, the total content of anionic surfactant(s) and amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactant(s) present in the composition ranges from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight, more preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, better from 15% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0153] The total content of anionic surfactants mentioned in the four paragraphs above refers to the total content of all anionic surfactants that may be present in the composition, in particular the total content of first and second anionic surfactants (i) and (ii) and possibly of third anionic surfactant when they are present in the composition.
[0154] Amino silicones: Advantageously, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one amino silicone.
[0155] By "silicone" is meant any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear or cyclic, branched or cross-linked structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained for example by polymerization and / or by polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of principal motifs in which the silicon atoms are linked together by oxygen atoms (siloxane bond -Si-O-Si-), with hydrocarbon radicals possibly substituted being directly linked via a carbon atom to said silicon atoms; and more particularly dialkylsiloxane polymers, amino silicones, dimethiconols.
[0156] The term “amino silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.
[0157] The weight-average molecular masses of these amine silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are Styragel p-columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml / min. 200 µL of a 0.5% wt. silicone solution is injected into the THF. Detection is performed by refractometry and UV measurement.
[0158] Preferably, the amine-based silicone(s) that may be used in the context of the invention are chosen from: a) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A): HO--- CH, 1 -Si— o- ch3 x' OH 1 — Si---O- (ÇH2)3 NH (ÇH2)2 _ NH2 — -H y' in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular weight by weight (Mw) is between approximately 5,000 and 500,000;
[0159] b) Amino silicones corresponding to the formula (B): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (B) wherein: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl group in C1-C8, for example methyl, or alkoxy group in C1-C8, for example methoxy, - a, identical or different, denotes 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quaternized chosen from the groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A ; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.
[0160] More preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from among the amino silicones of formula (B). More preferably still, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F), and / or (G).
[0161] According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones called "trimethylsilylamo dimethicone" corresponding to formula (C): Cf 1 O—Si i Cf ^3 ÇH3 OSi(CH3)3 (C) m (Cl y3 Si <3 n in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.
[0162] According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (D): ch3 1 CH, 1 î2 CH, 1 R! 1 —Si— -o — Si — -O Si O Si R3 (D) 1 1 (CH?)3 1 CH3 ch3 n 1 ■ NH ch3 (ÇH2)2 _ NH2 _ m in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Cr C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0163] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0164] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.
[0165] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3500 to 200,000.
[0166] According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (E): CH, 1 CH, 1 1 —Si— 1 -o — Si 1 ch3 ch3 P CH, CH | -(_) bl U ol T (CH2)3 1 1 CH NH (CH2)2 nh2 q in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical.
[0167] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.
[0168] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.
[0169] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.
[0170] Commercial products comprising structural silicones (D) or (E) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).
[0171] A product containing structure (D) amino silicones is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.
[0172] A product containing structure-amino silicones (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®.
[0173] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any nature, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular, as silicones For amine-based silicones of formula (E), microemulsions with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (inclusive) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (inclusive) are used. Thus, according to the invention, amine-based silicone microemulsions of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by WACKER can be used.
[0174] According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (F): CH, 1 CH, CH, 1 ch, 3 1 HO--Si— O — Si — 1 o— Si —o—Si—OH 1 1 1 A 1 ch3 ch3 1 ch3 n NH (ÇH2)2 (F) nh2 m in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.
[0175] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.
[0176] A silicone meeting this formula is for example DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.
[0177] According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of the following formula (G): CH, 1 CH, | 1 HC--Si — 1 O---Si 1 ch3 ch3 n ch3 ch3 O —of U o! CrL 1 3 A 1 1 ch3 NH <ch2), 1 nh2 m (G) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.
[0178] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.
[0179] A silicone meeting this formula is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.
[0180] c) Amino silicones conforming to formula (H): r6—ch2—choh—ch2—N+(R5)3 Q' (R5).—If—O Sf —(Rs)3 (H) in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8; - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.
[0181] Such amino silicones are described in particular in US patent 4,185,087.
[0182] d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I): R. OH R । rs-n-ch,-ch-ch-r.3 R7 q R? R, the 1st Si - O--Si — R - CH, - CHOH - CH, - N — R he-iv R7 J r R, R7 in which: - R7, whether identical or different, represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in the form Ci-Ci8, a radical alkenyl in C2-C[8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, an -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
[0183] These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974.
[0184] e) Amino silicones of formula (J): r- R' H2N - (C^H2m) - NH - (CRH2r!) - Si — O — Si--O (J) L R. in which: - Rb R2, R3 and R4, whether identical or different, designate a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl group, - R5 designates a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g.
[0185] f) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.
[0186] Said silicones f) are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or else [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2 - R -N(R")- R' - O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more specifically from 10 to 5000; - R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl atom; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon divalent radical, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R designates an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R designates a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH 2- radical; - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' designates an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a -CH2CH2CH2OCH2 CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' designates -CH(CH3)-CH2-.
[0187] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.
[0188] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.
[0189] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones is preferably between 5000 and 1000000, more particularly between 10000 and 200000.
[0190] We can cite in particular the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.
[0191] g) and mixtures thereof.
[0192] Preferably, the amino silicones are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B) above; preferably from the amino silicones of formula (C), (E), (F) or (G) above, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from the amino silicones of formula (C) or (F) above, and mixtures thereof.
[0193] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of amino silicone(s) present in the composition is in the range of 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably still from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0194] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of amino silicone(s) selected from amino silicones of formula (C), (E), (F) and / or (G), more preferably from silicones amino acids of formula (C) and / or (F), present in the composition is within the range of 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.08% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0195] Fatty amines: Preferably, the composition according to the present invention further comprises at least one cationic surfactant, in particular selected from fatty amines.
[0196] Preferably, the fatty amine(s) are chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines (possibly (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated), their salts, and mixtures thereof.
[0197] The term “fatty amine” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, possibly (poly)oxyalkylened, or its salts and comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain, preferably C8-C30.
[0198] Said cationic surfactants chosen from fatty amines are non-siliconized, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.
[0199] Preferably, the cationic surfactants chosen from the fatty amines usable according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0200] Amidoamines are examples of cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type. The amidoamines according to the invention can advantageously be chosen from among the fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be borne by the amine group or by the amido group.
[0201] Amidoamine is understood to mean a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.
[0202] Fatty amidoamine is understood to be an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not quantified.
[0203] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylated, nor (poly)glycerolated.
[0204] Among the fatty amidoamines according to the invention, particular mention may be made of amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 in which: - R represents a linear or branched monovalent hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a linear or branched C5-C29 alkyl radical, preferably C7-C23, or a linear or branched C5-C29 alkenyl radical, preferably C7-C23; - R” represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having fewer than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; and - R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical.
[0205] Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are not in quaternized form when introduced into the composition according to the invention (which does not exclude the fact that they may "quaternize" in situ).
[0206] More preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) (v) of the fatty amine type are selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, the stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0207] More preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) (v) of the fatty amine type are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine, and mixtures thereof; better still from stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.
[0208] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amines is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0209] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) chosen from fatty amidoamines is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% and 8% by weight, more preferably 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0210] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of cationic surfactant(s) selected from fatty amidoamines of formula RCONHR”N(R')2 is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferably still from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and better from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0211] Other cationic polymers Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one additional cationic polymer P, different from the cationic polysaccharides (v) described above.
[0212] According to the invention, the cationic polymer(s) P usable in the composition are different from the ingredients previously described, and in particular from the cationic polysaccharides (v) previously described.
[0213] For the purposes of this invention, "cationic polymer" means any polymer comprising cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups. Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) P are hydrophilic or amphiphilic.
[0214] Cationic polymers P are not siliconed (do not include Si-O motif).
[0215] Preferred cationic polymers P are chosen from those which contain motifs comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may either be part of the main polymer chain or be carried by a lateral substituent directly linked thereto.
[0216] Preferably, the cationic polymers P do not comprise an anionic group or a group that can be ionized into anionic groups.
[0217] The cationic polymers P that may be used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) between approximately 500 and 5.106, preferably between approximately 103 and 3.106.
[0218] Preferably, the cationic polymers P have a charge density of less than 4 meq / g, better less than 3.5 meq / g, even more preferably ranging from 1 to 3.4 meq / g.
[0219] The charge density can be determined according to the Kjedahl method. It is generally measured at a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
[0220] Among cationic polymers P, the following may be mentioned in particular:
[0221] (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic esters or amides or methacrylics and containing at least one of the following formula motifs: R. —CHrc— —CMpC— O~Ç °"9 NH x- A 4 N Rx---N--Rs Rf R? Rs formulas in which: - Ri and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl; - R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; - A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - R4, R5 and R6, whether identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
[0222] The copolymers of family (1) may further contain one or more motifs derived from comonomers that may be selected from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.
[0223] Among these copolymers of family (1), we can mention: - copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quantified with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES, - copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QU AT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, - the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyeth yltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, - vinylpyrrolidone / acrylate or dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or the products named "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573. - dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP, - vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP; - vinylpyrrolidone / quatemized dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, - Polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl(Ci-C4)trialkyl(Ci-C4)ammonium salts, such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with quaternized dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. A crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20 / 80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil may be used in particular. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by CIBA.A cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyl trimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester can also be used. These dispersions are marketed under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the CIBA company.
[0224] (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl motifs and alkylene divalent radicals or linear or branched chain hydroxyalkylene, possibly interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen atoms or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers.
[0225] (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide or by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a reactive bifunctional compound with respect to a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; These polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.
[0226] (5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkoylenes Polyamines are formed with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkoxylation using bifunctional agents. An example is adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalcoyldialoylene triamine polymers, in which the alkyl radical has 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably designates methyl, ethyl, or propyl. Among these derivatives, adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4, or F8" by Sandoz are particularly noteworthy.
[0227] (6) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid selected from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being made to react with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably being between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer.
[0228]
[0229]
[0230] (7) Alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having as the principal chain constituent motifs conforming to formulas (VII) or (VIII): (CH2)K C(R.;2)-Œ2- -- h2c^ ch2 h2c^ ch2 ¥• CW Q / A, 1 RÎS formulas (VII) and (VIII), in which: - k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; - Rn designates a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; - Rio and Rlb, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, an amidoalkyl group in C1 to C4; or Rio and Rn may, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, denote heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and Rn, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. We can cite in particular the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium, such as polyquaternium-6, for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO (and their counterparts of low average molar masses by weight) and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide, such as polyquaternium-7, marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR". (8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring motifs of formula (IX): formula (IX), in which: - Rn, Rm, R15 and Ri6, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or Rn, R[4, Ri5 and Ri6, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or Rn, Ru, R[5 and R[6 represent a linear or branched C1 to C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-Rp-D or -CO-NH-R i7-D group where Rn is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group; - Ai and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, bonded to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen, sulfur, or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and - X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, Rn and Ri5 can form a piperazine ring with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached; Furthermore, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- group in which D denotes: a) a glycol remnant of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH 2-CH2-O)x-CH2-CH2- and -[CH2-CH(CH3)-O]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine remnant of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-SS-CH2-CH2-; Or d) a ureylene group with the formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
[0231] Preferably, X is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100000.
[0232] One can cite in particular polymers which are made up of recurring motifs corresponding to the formula (X): (X) formula (X) in which Rb R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to 20 and, X is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
[0233] A compound of formula (X) particularly preferred is that for which Rb R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X = Cl, named Hexadimethrine chloride according to INCI nomenclature (CTFA).
[0234] (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising formula motifs (XI): Rtc rr — N * - (CH - NH - CO - (CH.) -CO -NH■ (CHA - N + - A — Rte (XI) x_ R2t formula (XI), in which: - Ri8, R19, R2o and R2i, whether identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2 CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R[8, R19, R20 and R2[ do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, - r and s, whether identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, - q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34, - X denotes an anion such as a halide, and - A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-,
[0235] Examples include the products "Mirapol®A 15", "Mirapol® ADI", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.
[0236] (10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as by for example, products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF
[0237] (11) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.
[0238] (12) polymers comprising in their structure:
[0239] (a) one or more motifs conforming to the following formula (XII): ----CHr-GK----- (XII)
[0240] (b) possibly one or more motifs corresponding to the following formula (XIII): ----CHg™CH-------------- (XIII). WN------C~H
[0241] In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more motifs derived from vinylamine and possibly one or more motifs derived from vinylformamide.
[0242] Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, 5 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (XII) and 0 to 95% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (XIII), preferably 10 to 100% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (XII) and 0 to 90% by moles of motifs corresponding to formula (XIII).
[0243] These polymers can be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can be carried out in acidic or basic media.
[0244] The average molecular mass by weight of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g / mol.
[0245] The cationic charge density of these polymers can vary from 2 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably from 2.5 to 15 and more particularly from 3.5 to 10 meq / g.
[0246] Polymers comprising formula motifs (XII) and possibly formula motifs (XIII) are notably sold under the name LUPAMIN by BASF, such as, for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095, LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.
[0247] Preferably, the cationic polymer(s) P are selected from homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of family (1) as described above, alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers of family (7) as described above, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the cationic polymer(s) P are selected from alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers of family (7) as described above; better still, from homopolymers or copolymers comprising as the main constituent of the chain motifs corresponding to formulas (VII) or (VIII) and their mixtures; and better still polyquaternium-7.
[0248] Advantageously, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) P present in the composition according to the invention is preferably in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.08% to 3% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0249] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of the cationic polymer(s) P selected from the homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides of family (1) as described above, the alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers of family (7) as described above, and their mixtures, is preferably in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably still from 0.08% to 3% by weight, better from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0250] Pearlescent agents: Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one pearlescent agent.
[0251] By "nacreant agent" is meant any compound capable of giving the composition according to the invention an iridescent, shimmering, moiré or metallic appearance or effect.
[0252] When the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pearlescent agent, it is understood that this is different from the compounds (i) to (v), alpha-olefin-sulfonates, cationic surfactants of the fatty amine type and cationic polymers described above.
[0253] Preferably, the pearlescent agent(s) may be selected from: a) esters of polyols having at least two carbon atoms and long-chain fatty acids, preferably in C10-C30 and even more preferably in C6-C22; such as mono or diesters of polyols and fatty acids; preferably the polyols are ethylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol having from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units; b) esters of long-chain monoalcohols (C10-C30) such as cetyl palmitate; c) ethers of long-chain fatty alcohols solid at a temperature less than or equal to about 30°C and at atmospheric pressure, such as, for example, dialkyl ethers of formula (I'): RO-R' (I') in which R and R', identical or different, denote an alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, R and R' being chosen such that the compound of formula (!') is solid at a temperature less than or equal to 30°C and at atmospheric pressure. More particularly, R and R' denote a stearyl radical. These compounds can notably be prepared according to the process described in patent application DE 41 27 230. A distearylether usable within the scope of the present invention is marketed under the name CUTINA STE by the company HENKEL; d) long chain (Ci0-C30) esters of long chain (Ci0-C30) alkanolamides such as stearamide diethanolamide distearate or stearamide monoethanolamide stearate; (e) single-chain fatty alcohols having at least 20 carbon atoms such as behenic alcohol; and f) compounds having from 27 to 48 carbon atoms and comprising one or two ether and / or thioether or sulfoxide groups, and more particularly, corresponding to formula (II'): Ra-X[C2H3(OH)]-CH2-Y-Rb (II') in which Ra and Rb independently denote linear groupings in C[2 to C24; X designates an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulfoxide group or methylene; Y designates an oxygen atom, a sulfur atom, a sulfoxide group or methylene; Ra and Rb have a value ranging from 24 to 44 and preferably from 28 to 40 inclusive; when X or Y designates a sulfoxide group, X or Y does not designate a sulfur atom. The compounds of formula (II') used preferably in accordance with the invention are those for which X designates an oxygen atom, Y designates a methylene group, and Ra and Rb designate radicals having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, these compounds being able to be prepared according to patent EP457688; And (g) coated or uncoated titanium oxides, micas and titanium micas; h) cyclodextrins and in particular [3-cyclodextrin.
[0254] Preferably, the pearlescent agent(s) are chosen from polyol esters having at least two carbon atoms and long-chain fatty acids, preferably C10-C30; and even more preferably C16-C22; such as mono- or diesters of polyols and fatty acids, and their mixtures; better, the polyols are ethylene glycol and polyalkylene glycols having 2 to 10 ethylene oxide motifs.
[0255] In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention comprises glycol distearate as a pearlescent agent.
[0256] Preferably, when the pearlescent agent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of pearlescent agent(s) is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% and 8% by weight, more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0257] Preferably, when present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of glycol distearate is in the range of 0.01% and 10% by weight, more preferably 0.1% and 8% by weight, more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0258] Preferably, the composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one inorganic salt.
[0259] For the purposes of this application, the inorganic salt(s) are different from anionic surfactants (i) and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants (ii), particles, and more particularly from all the ingredients described above.
[0260] Preferably, the inorganic salt(s) are chosen from among the inorganic salts of alkali or alkaline earth metal.
[0261] More preferably, the inorganic salt(s) are chosen from alkali metal salts of a halide, alkaline earth metal salts of a halide, and mixtures thereof; better from alkali metal salts of a halide.
[0262] More preferably, the inorganic salt(s) are chosen from alkali metal salts of the chloride ion, alkaline earth metal salts of the chloride ion, and mixtures thereof; better from alkali metal salts of the chloride ion such as sodium chloride.
[0263] Preferably, the total content of inorganic salt(s) present in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0264] Preferably, the total content of alkali or alkaline-earth metal salt(s) of a halide present(s) in the composition according to the invention ranges from 0.01% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, more preferably still from 0.1% to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0265] Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises water, that is to say that the medium of the composition is advantageously aqueous or hydroalcoholic.
[0266] More preferably, the total water content of the composition according to the invention is between 50% and 95% by weight, more preferably between 55% and 90% by weight, more preferably still between 60% and 85% by weight, even better between 65% and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0267] The composition according to the invention may optionally further comprise at least one organic solvent.
[0268] For the purposes of the invention, it is understood that the organic solvents are liquid at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure.
[0269] Examples of organic solvents include water-soluble solvents such as C1-C7 alcohols, particularly C1-C7 aliphatic or aromatic monoalcohols, C3-C7 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers, which can be used alone or in mixtures with water. Advantageously, the organic solvent(s) may be selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, and mixtures thereof.
[0270] Preferably, when the organic solvent(s) are present in the composition according to the invention, the total content of organic solvent(s) in C2-C7 is between 0.01% and 5% by weight, more preferably between 0.05% and 2% by weight, more preferably still between 0.1% and 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0271] Preferably, the pH of the composition is between 3.0 and 9.0, more preferably between 4.0 and 8.0, more preferably still between 4.5 and 6.5, even better between 5.0 and 6.0.
[0272] The pH of the composition according to the invention can be adjusted to the desired value by means of alkalizing agents (such as monoethanolamine) and / or acidifying agents (such as citric acid).
[0273] The composition according to the invention may optionally also contain one or more additives used in cosmetics, such as perfumes, thickeners, colorants, preservatives, silicones other than the amino silicones previously described, non-ionic surfactants different from those previously described.
[0274] These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0275] A person skilled in the art shall take care to choose any such additives and their quantities so that they do not impair the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
[0276] According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one first anionic surfactant selected from acylisethionates of formula (II), (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant selected from amino acid derivatives, preferably selected from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl [3-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better from N-acyl sarcosinates, in particular of formula (111) previously described, (iii) at least one glucamide compound selected from acyl-glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms, (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferably from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; better among the alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide selected from cellulose ether derivatives having quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; preferably from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferably selected from cationic guar gums. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the composition does not include anionic sulfate surfactant.
[0277] According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one first anionic surfactant selected from acylisethionates of formula (II), (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant selected from amino acid derivatives, preferably selected from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl [3-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better from N-acyl sarcosinates, (iii) at least one glucamide compound selected from acyl-glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms, (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C 8-C20)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferably among alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; better among alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide selected from cellulose ether derivatives having quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; preferably among cationic galactomannan gums; more preferably selected from cationic guar gums, (vi) at least one amino silicone, preferably selected from amino silicones of formula (B) as previously described; preferably from amino silicones of formula (C), (E), (F) and / or (G) as previously described;more preferentially among the amino silicones of formula (C) and / or (F) as previously described, and; (vii) at least one cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines, preferably selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C3o hydrocarbon chain, more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; best among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.
[0278] More preferably according to this embodiment, the composition does not include anionic sulfate surfactant.
[0279] According to yet another preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition, preferably cosmetic, comprises: (i) at least one first anionic surfactant selected from acylisethionates of formula (II), (ii) at least one second anionic surfactant selected from amino acid derivatives, preferably selected from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl [3-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better from N-acyl sarcosinates, (iii) at least one glucamide compound selected from acyl-glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising 4 to 30 carbon atoms, (iv) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, preferably selected from alkyl(C8-C2O)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2O)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2O)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C2O)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferably from alkyl(C8-C2O)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2O)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; preferably from alkyl(C8-C2O)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, (v) at least one cationic polysaccharide selected from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferably selected from cationic guar gums, (vi) at least one third anionic surfactant, different from said first and second anionic surfactants, selected from alpha-olefin sulfonates, preferably from linear sulfonate alkenes of formula (A), (vii) at least one amino silicone, preferably selected from amino silicones of formula (B) as previously described; preferably from amino silicones of formula (C), (E), (F) and / or (G) as previously described; more preferably from amino silicones of formula (C) and / or (F) as previously described, and (viii) at least one cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines, preferably selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain; more preferably selected from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; more preferably among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures; best among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the composition does not include anionic sulfate surfactant.
[0280] The composition according to the invention is advantageously presented in the form of a shampoo.
[0281] The invention also relates to a treatment process, particularly for cosmetic purposes, for keratinous materials, especially keratinous fibers, particularly human keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined above
[0282] Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for washing and / or conditioning keratinous materials, in particular keratinous fibers, especially human keratinous fibers such as hair, better a washing process, comprising at least one step of applying to said human keratinous materials a composition as defined above.
[0283] Preferably, a rinsing step of the keratinous materials is carried out after an application step on said keratinous materials of a composition according to the invention; more preferably less than 30 minutes after the application step, more preferably still less than 10 minutes after, better less than 5 minutes after.
[0284] A drying step of the keratin materials may be provided in the process according to the invention - preferably after said rinsing step; for example using a heating means such as a hair dryer, a straightener, a steam iron or a heating helmet; the heating means being able to heat to a temperature ranging from 35°C to 230°C, preferably from 50°C to 120°C.
[0285] The invention further relates to the use of the composition according to the invention as described above for the treatment of keratinous materials such as hair, preferably for washing and / or conditioning, better for washing, keratinous materials such as hair.
[0286] The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
[0287] Examples: Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition B are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the quantities of which are expressed as % by weight of active material (ma).
[0288] [Tables] Ingredients A (Inv.) B (Comp.) Sodium cocoyl sarcosinate 3.3 - Sodium cocoyl isethionate 3.3 6.6 Sodium Ci4 i6 olefin sulfonate 8.7 8.7 Lauroyl / myristoyl methyl glucamine 1.5 1.5 Silicone emulsion (dimethicone and amodimethicone and trideceth-10 and PEG-100 stearate and steareth-6 and trideceth-3) as described in W 02017 / 108824 1.2 of raw material (of which 0.48g a.m. of dimethicone and 0.12g a.m. of amodimethicone) 1.2 of raw material (of which 0.48g a.m. of dimethicone and 0.12g a.m. of amodimethicone) Cocamidopropyl betaine 2.5 2.5 Coco-betaine 0.6 0.6 Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine 1.5 1.5 Glycol distearate 3.0 3.0 Hydroxypropyl chloride guar hydroxypropyltrimonium 0.3 0.3 Polyquaterium-7 0.4 0.4 Triethyl citrate 0.5 0.5 Glyceryl oleate 0.4 0.4 Sodium chloride 0.8 0.8 Carbomer 0.4 0.4 Preservatives qs qs Lactic acid 0.24 0.24 Water qs 100 g qs 100 g
[0289] The compositions can be used as shampoo.
[0290] Composition A according to the invention quickly generates a foam of good quality, with a nice texture (creamy) and in large quantity.
[0291] A sensory evaluation of hair treated with compositions A or B was carried out.
[0292] Compositions A and B were respectively applied to 5.4g strands of moderately sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) at a ratio of 0.28 grams of composition per gram of hair. The hair strands were then massaged and rinsed with water.
[0293] A sensory evaluation of the conditioning properties of each treated wet strand was carried out blindly by 3 experts. For this purpose, each expert blindly compared the strand treated with the comparative composition B with the strand of hair treated with composition A according to the invention.
[0294] Each expert blindly rates the strand of hair treated / washed by comparative composition B, according to the following rating: +1: significantly better than with composition A according to the invention, +0.5: slightly better than with composition A according to the invention, 0: similar to the wick treated with composition A according to the invention, -0.5: slightly less good than with composition A according to the invention, -1: significantly less good than with composition A according to the invention.
[0295] The score of 0 is given to the wick treated with composition A according to the invention. Evaluation of smoothness to the touch#:
[0296] Definition: The wick has no rough edges.
[0297] Gesture: The expert holds the lock of hair in one hand; he places the thumb of his other hand on the front of the lock and the index and middle fingers behind it. He slides these three fingers along the lock from root to tip for 3 passes. Coating evaluation#:
[0298] Definition: Sensation of product remaining on the strand of hair (presence of a residual film).
[0299] Gesture: The expert holds the lock of hair in one hand; he places the thumb of his other hand on the front of the lock and the index and middle fingers behind it. He slides these three fingers along the lock from root to tip for 3 passes.
[0300] The results are grouped in the table below.
[0301] [Tables2] Smooth to the touch A (Inv.) B (Comp.) Expert 1 0 -0.5 Expert 2 0 -1 Expert 3 0 0 Average 0 -0.5 Standard deviation - 0.3
[0302] [Tables3] Coating A (Inv.) B (Comp.) Expert 1 0 -0.5 Expert 2 0 -1 Expert 3 0 -1 Average 0 -0.8 Standard deviation -0.3
[0303] It is observed that the hair treated with composition A according to the invention is significantly smoother to the touch and more coated than the hair treated with the comparative composition B.
Claims
Demands
1. Composition comprising: i. at least one first anionic surfactant selected from acylisethionates, ii. at least one second anionic surfactant selected from amino acid derivatives, iii. at least one glucamide compound, iv. at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant, and v. at least one cationic polysaccharide.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the first anionic surfactant(s) selected from acylisethionates are of the following formula (II): ",o- "r'": in which: - R represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms; - R' represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; and - M+ is a cosmetically acceptable cationic counterion selected from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine, preferably from alkali metal atoms and alkaline earth metal atoms, even better from alkali metal atoms such as sodium;Preferably, the radical R of formula (II) represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 5 to 24, more preferably from 6 to 20, more preferably from 8 to 18, better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms.
3. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (i) selected from acylisethionates is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight. weight, better from 1% to 8% by weight, even better from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second anionic surfactant(s) (ii) are selected from N-acyl taurates, N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl alaninates, N-acyl [3-alaninates, N-acyl glycinates, N-acyl sarcosinates, N-acyl aspartates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably from N-acyl glutamates, N-acyl sarcosinates, and mixtures thereof; better from N-acyl sarcosinates.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactant(s) (ii) selected from amino acid derivatives is in the range of 0.01% to 20% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, better 1% to 8% by weight, better still 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the glucamide compound(s) (iii) are selected from acyl-glucamides, preferably from acyl-glucamides having a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22, better from 6 to 20, even better from 6 to 14 carbon atoms.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of glucamide compound(s) (iii) ranges from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.8% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are selected from alkyl(C8-C2o)betaines, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amphoacetates, alkyl(C8-C20)amphodiacetates and mixtures thereof; more preferably from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines, alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines and mixtures thereof; better from alkyl(C8-C2o)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polysaccharide(s) (v) are chosen from cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, cationic galactomannan gums, and mixtures thereof; preferably from cationic galactomannan gums; more preferably chosen from cationic guar gums.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of cationic polysaccharide(s) (v) is in the range of 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.08% to 3% by weight, more preferably 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one third anionic surfactant, different from said first and second anionic surfactants (i) and (ii), selected from alpha-olefin-sulfonates; preferably from linear alkene sulfonates of the following formula (A): (A) ..0' fî * A in which: - R represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 5 to 30 carbon atoms; - n is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 1 and 4, better equal to 1 or 2, always better equal to 2; and - M+ is a cationic counterion chosen from a hydrogen atom, alkali metal atoms, alkaline earth metal atoms, ammonium groups such as NH4+ or amino alcohol groups such as monoethanolamine; more preferably, the radical R of formula (A) represents a saturated linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 21, more preferably from 9 to 19, better from 11 to 15, carbon atoms.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one amino silicone; preferably chosen from among the amino silicones corresponding to the formula (B): R'aG3a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3a-R'a (B) in which: - G, identical or different, designates a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, alkyl in Ci-C8, for example methyl, or alkoxy in CrC8, for example methoxy, - a, identical or different, designates 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, - b designates 0 or 1, in particular 1, - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;- R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group possibly quaternized chosen from the groups: -N(R")2; -N+(R")3 A; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a Ci-C20 alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide; more preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from among the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (E), (F), or (G), and their mixtures: * the amino silicones designated "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" of formula (C):; (CH3)3 If O — If J3 S he CH3 o —If (ch2)3 NH (CH2)2 nh2 OSi(CH3)3 (C) in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; * Amino silicones of formula (E): CH, CH, If—O —If- CH, CH J P o —If — (CH2)3 NH (CH2)2 NH, _____ di ch3 o—Si—R2 CHS in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q can designate a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Cr C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical; * Amino silicones of formula (F): ch3 HO--If— ch3 CH, CH O---If ch3 J n O—If NH CH3 O—Si—OH I ch3 (CH2); (F) nh2 in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms; * Amino silicones of formula (G): CH, CH II h3c--Si—O--Si- CH, CH, 3-5 CH3 O—Si-- i AI NH (CH2)2 I ~ NH- CH, I O—Si—ch3 ch3 (G) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms;
13. Better, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from among the amino silicones conforming to formulas (C) or (F), and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total content of anionic surfactants ranges from 5% to 45% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight. more preferably from 12% to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one cationic surfactant selected from fatty amines; preferably from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally (poly)oxyalkylated or (poly)glycerolated, their salts, and mixtures thereof; more preferably selected from fatty amidoamines comprising at least one C6-C30 hydrocarbon chain;more preferably chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethylamine, olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof; best among oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures;even better among stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and their mixtures.;
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is devoid of anionic sulfate surfactant.
16. A process for treating keratinous materials, preferably keratinous fibers, and more preferably for washing keratinous fibers, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15.
Citation Information
Patent Citations
Semi-continuous prodn. of di:alkyl ether(s) - by dehydration of alcohol(s) in presence of sulphonic acids with distn. of water, followed by distn., and re-using acid-contg. fraction
DE4127230A1
Compsn. contg. sulphated fatty acid-N-poly:hydroxyalkyl amide(s)
DE4443645A1
Washing compositions based on silicone and fatty alcohols containing ethers and / or thioethers or sulfoxyde
EP0457688A1
novel cellulosic ethers containing quaternary nitrogen
FR1492597A
FR2077143A5