Cosmetic emulsion comprising three sugars and application method

Abstract

Title of the invention: Cosmetic emulsion comprising three sugars and method of application. The invention relates to an emulsion for makeup or skincare comprising glycerin, sorbitol, maltitol, and a gluco-oligoside in specific proportions. This emulsion has improved moisturizing and sensory properties.

Description

Title of the invention: Cosmetic emulsion comprising three sugars and method of application technical field

[0001] The present presentation relates to the field of moisturizing emulsions for skin care or makeup. Previous technique

[0002] The moisturizing properties of emulsion formulas are generally provided by polyols, including glycerin, which is very widely used. Increasing the moisturizing performance of emulsions generally involves increasing the glycerin content. However, when used in high quantities in the formula, it risks giving cosmetic products a feel that consumers may find unpleasant.

[0003] There is therefore a need for emulsions for skin care and makeup which are free, at least in part, from the disadvantages inherent in emulsions of the prior art.

[0004] It would be particularly desirable to offer emulsions for skincare and makeup that provide good moisturizing properties while offering a pleasant sensory experience. Consumers could thus benefit from a new sensory experience of the texture, the application of the product to the skin, or the perception of the product deposit.

[0005] The need remains, in particular, to offer a cosmetic product providing one or more of these three effects. Before application, the product should have a creamy, slightly waxy, and slightly gel-like texture. A smoothing effect would be desirable and would last until the end of the application. Finally, after application, the user should perceive a film of product that adheres well to the skin, as well as the film's longevity. The emulsion should, for example, leave a nourishing, or even oily, sensation. The product's penetration should be slow, resulting in a rich finish that leaves a glossy film on the skin. Description of the invention

[0006] The present invention meets at least one of these needs by providing an emulsion comprising a mixture of glycerin, sorbitol and maltitol, the mass percentage of sorbitol in the emulsion being greater than or equal to that of glycerin and the mass percentage of glycerin being itself strictly greater than that of maltitol, the emulsion further comprising at least one gluco-oligoside selected from dextrin and inulin.

[0007] In a particular embodiment, the emulsion comprises 4% to 8% glycerin.

[0008] The inventors have surprisingly discovered that combining several sugars in specific relative quantities to glycerin produces a moisturizing emulsion with a novel sensory experience. This cosmetic product enhances at least one of the sensations produced by prior art emulsions and offers a combination of several different sensations that had not been previously available. In some embodiments, the emulsion is more moisturizing. The smoothing sensation upon application can also be enhanced.

[0009] The inventors have in particular found that the combination of sorbitol, maltitol and a gluco-oligoside in an emulsion comprising glycerin makes it possible to give the emulsion the sensoriality of a rich product without the perception of stickiness, which is a deterrent for some consumers.

[0010] In a particular embodiment of the invention, the emulsion of the invention advantageously contains a high percentage of glycerin and sugars without imparting stickiness, which is very surprising since glycerin and sorbitol are ingredients known to negatively impact the sensory qualities of formulas. Description of embodiments

[0011] Thus, a first object of the invention relates to an emulsion for skin care or makeup comprising a mixture of sorbitol, glycerin and maltitol, the mass percentage of sorbitol in the emulsion being greater than or equal to that of glycerin, and the mass percentage of glycerin being itself strictly greater than that of maltitol, the emulsion further comprising at least one gluco-oligoside selected from dextrin and inulin.

[0012] The emulsion of the invention may comprise from 4% to 8% by mass of glycerin. In this description, "mass percentage" means a percentage calculated in relation to the total mass of the emulsion.

[0013] The mass ratio between sorbitol and maltitol can be between 2:1 and 10:1, preferably between 3:1 and 9:1, more preferably between 4:1 and 8:1, and more preferably between 6:1 and 7:1.

[0014] The emulsion of the invention comprises at least three sugars including sorbitol and maltitol.

[0015] The term "sugar" refers to a polyol produced from a monosaccharide that does not contain a carbonyl group, such as sorbitol, derived from glucose, or maltitol, derived from maltose. "Sugar" also refers to a gluco-oligoside, such as dextrin, which is a mixture of gluco-oligosides obtained by acid or enzymatic hydrolysis of starch.

[0016] Dextrin can have a molecular mass ranging from 1000 g / mol to 10000 g / mol, for example ranging from 2000 g / mol to 6000 g / mol. It is preferably linear.

[0017] In certain embodiments, the presence of gluco-oligoside makes it possible to enhance the moisturizing character of the emulsion while preserving the sensory qualities provided by sorbitol and maltitol, in particular the sensory qualities of a rich product without being sticky.

[0018] In the emulsion of the invention, the percentage of sorbitol is greater than that of maltitol and preferably greater than that of the gluco-oligoside. For example, the mass ratio between sorbitol and gluco-oligoside is between 10:1 and 22:1, preferably between 12:1 and 20:1 and preferably still between 14:1 and 18:1.

[0019] The emulsion contains a relatively high amount of sorbitol compared to prior art emulsions. It may contain, in particular, from 2.0% to 9.0% by mass of sorbitol, preferably from 4.0% to 8.5% by mass of sorbitol, and even more preferably from 6.0% to 8.5% by mass of sorbitol. This percentage is particularly suitable for an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a large proportion of the oil phase.

[0020] The percentage of maltitol can range from 0.5% to 2.0% by mass, for example from 1.0% to 1.5% by mass.

[0021] The emulsion may contain from 0.02% to 1.0% of dextrin, from 0.02% to 1.0% of inulin or from 0.02% to 1.0% of a mixture of dextrin and inulin.

[0022] A particular example is such that the emulsion contains 6.0% to 8.5% of sorbitol, 0.5% to 1.7% of maltitol, 0.02% to 1.0% of dextrin, inulin or a mixture of both, and 4.0% to 8.0% of glycerin.

[0023] The inventors have surprisingly found that it is possible to formulate an emulsion comprising more than 10%, or even more than 15%, of a mixture of at least four polyols having at least three OH groups, which provides both a good level of hydration and a good texture. The polyol mixture comprises the three sugars described above: maltitol, sorbitol, and gluco-oligoside, as well as glycerin.

[0024] In some embodiments, the emulsion contains more than 9% by mass, preferably more than 12% by mass, of a mixture consisting of sorbitol, maltitol, gluco-oligoside, and glycerin. For example, it may contain from 9% to 25% by mass of this mixture, preferably from 14% to 16% by mass of this mixture.

[0025] The emulsion may be a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion. The oily phase of the emulsion may comprise hydrocarbon or silicone oils.

[0026] A first particular galenic formulation of the emulsion of the invention relates to an oil-in-water skincare product comprising an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase, the oily phase representing, for example, 5% to 35% by mass of the mass of the emulsion. This is for example a serum comprising 5% to 10% by mass of oil phase or a cream comprising 20% ​​to 25% by mass of oil phase.

[0027] A second particular galenic form of the emulsion according to the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in an oily phase, the oily phase preferably representing 40% to 70% by mass of the mass of the emulsion.

[0028] The emulsion can be used for the preparation of a wide variety of cosmetic skincare or makeup products. For example, it can be used as a skincare cream, as a serum, or in the form of a foundation.

[0029] A particular embodiment of the invention relates to a skincare product in the form of an emulsion of an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase comprising 20% ​​to 25% oily phase, 4.0% to 8.0% glycerin, 7.0% to 8.5% sorbitol, and 0.5% to 1.7% maltitol. In this embodiment, the skincare product may comprise 0.02% to 1.0% dextrin, 0.02% to 1.0% inulin, or 0.02% to 1.0% of a mixture of dextrin and inulin.

[0030] The emulsion may contain, in addition to the sugars described above, other cosmetic ingredients including preservatives, colorants, surfactants, pH adjusters, glycols, fillers, aqueous thickeners, aqueous gelling agents, waxes, butters, fatty alcohols, and oils. Those skilled in the art are familiar with these ingredients, which are commonly used in the cosmetics industry.

[0031] The oily phase of the emulsion of the invention contains one or more oils selected from hydrocarbon oils, polar oils, and silicone oils. It may contain less than 0.5%, preferably less than 0.1%, or even be devoid of a hydrocarbon oil and a silicone oil. Indeed, in certain embodiments, such an oil may reduce the hydration performance of the emulsion.

[0032] The emulsion may also contain at least one filler, such as for example a filler of silica or lauroyl lysine.

[0033] Thus, the aqueous phase advantageously comprises a filler of amorphous silica and / or lauroyl lysine to improve the smoothness of the emulsion on the skin, without reducing its hydration level. The amorphous silica preferably exhibits low water and oil absorption, such as a water absorption of less than 10 mL / 100 g and an oil absorption of less than 10 mL / 100 g.

[0034] Glycols, such as pentylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol and caprylyl glycol, can represent between 1% and 10% by mass, for example from 4% to 8% by mass relative to the mass of the composition.

[0035] Among the surfactants that can be included in the composition of the emulsion, we can mention polyglycerol esters or silicone surfactants.

[0036] A second object of the invention relates to a skin care or makeup process comprising a step of applying to the skin an emulsion conforming to the previous description.

[0037] All the characteristics described above with reference to the emulsion are transposable, taken alone or in combination, to the process.

[0038] Although the present invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments and modes of implementation, those skilled in the art will be able to make variations without departing from the general scope of the invention as defined by the claims. In particular, individual features of the various illustrated embodiments can be combined in additional embodiments.

[0039] The aforementioned features and advantages, as well as others, will become apparent from the following embodiments. The temperature is between 20°C and 25°C, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise specified. Example 1#: Oil-in-Water Skincare Cream

[0040] This cream contains 8% sorbitol, 1.2% maltitol, 6.0% glycerin, and 0.5% dextrin (Cream 255) or inulin (Cream 270). It is obtained by mixing the ingredients in the proportions indicated in Table 1, according to the protocol described below. The percentages are given as dry weight of the INCI compound, except for the ingredients (underlined) which are a mixture of INCI compounds and whose percentage is indicated in the table.

[0041] [Table 1]

[0042] Composition of Oil-in-Water skincare creams 255 and 270 INGREDIENT INC! 25S 270 A EAU PURIFIEE AQUA £jS 100 A CHLDRPHENESIN 03 A 13 BUTYLENE GLYCDL BUTYLENE GLYCOL 33 B INA CS-326 AGAR 93 B RHCOICARE XC XWMW GUM 03 B GLYCEROL VEGETAL GLYCERIN 63 C CETÏOL LC COCOCA IW£ / CWWE 73 C CARNAtm WAX CE RA G^RNAUBA 13 C UFEX SHEASOFT BUTYROSPERMUM PARMI BUTTER S3 c POLYAQUGL 2W mYGLYœm.-? s i eara i e GLYCERM STEARATE STEARYL ALQOHOL 43 Q FANCOR MEAD0WFQAM $EEP OÏL UMN W-ES ALM SEED QIL 43 C imœ a C1048 TRIGLYÇEWES 13 c STEARINE W50 ■ CMOS STEARK ACID PALMITIC ACID 32 Cl NWOL 8EHENYL ALÇOHQL 93 Ci EUMULGIN SG MB SODIUM STBAROYL GLUTAMATE 03 D KMETHICONE 100 CS DIMBTHlàW &3 e PENTYLENE GLYCOL 13 E CH1FWNSIL PAR SILÎCA 13 E SYMDIOL 6S 1,2'HEXâAESKL CAPRYLYL GLYCOL Ifî AMÏHOPE LL MB WRQYL LYSINE 93 F AŒE CITRIQUE □TRIC ACID 035 F CITRATE TæSÔDIQUE SODIUM CITRATE 93 G S0RBÏTOL §3 G SAfEETPEARL P200 MALTHOL 13 A DEXWN 0,5 - A INULIN 03 TOTAL 100,0

[0043] Procédé de formulation :

[0044] - The aqueous phase A is heated to 90°C under a deflocculator. - Phase B is added to phase A to form a homogeneous gel. - The lipid phase C is heated to 95°C in a water bath under a deflocculator. - Phase C is then emulsified in phase A. - Add the D and mix at 700 rpm for 5 minutes, then at 10,000 rpm for 1 minute, under Turrax. - Allow to cool under a deflocculator at 500 rpm. - When the temperature reaches 50°C, E, F and then G are added successively. - When the temperature reaches 35°C, the shearing is stopped. Comparison with other emulsions#:

[0045] Two other emulsions, Control, Control 265 and Control 267, were prepared according to the same formulation process, varying the mass percentage of sorbitol, maltitol, dextrin, inulin, glycerol and water. An evaluation of the hydrating properties and an estimation of the stickiness of these formulas were also carried out, and the results are shown in Table 2.

[0046] Protocol for evaluating moisturizing properties:

[0047] Hydration is measured by corneometry, using a CORNEOMETER CM825 device supplied by the company Courage & Khazaka SN “NUM SERIE” known to those skilled in the art.

[0048] The method for measuring stratum corneum hydration is based on the creation of an electric field on the surface of the skin and the detection, using electrodes, of the variations in the dielectric constant induced by the state of hydration of the upper layer of the epidermis (see on this subject the work of E. Berardesca, EEMCO guidance for the assessment of stratum corneum hydration: electrical methods — Skin Research and Technology 1997; 3: 126-132).

[0049] The prepared cosmetic composition is applied to the forearm of a volunteer. The amount applied corresponds to 2 pL / cm² of skin. The application area is then protected from friction by placing a metal ring around the application area, secured to the forearm with adhesive tape.

[0050] A measurement is carried out on the application area, before application of the cosmetic composition (T0), then 6 hours (T+6h) after application of the cosmetic composition, allowing a period of 15 minutes of stabilization to elapse after removal of the anti-friction protection, before carrying out the measurement.

[0051] The variation in hydration between measurements at T0 and T+6h is measured according to the method described above. Sensory evaluation protocol for tights#:

[0052] The sticky feeling was quantified at T0 after application of the cream to the skin. - Application protocol: Application of 0.1g on the forearm, 20 rotations performed, evaluation at T0. - Rating scale: 0: not sticky 1: slightly sticky 2: tights 3: too sticky The average evaluations made on the emulsions are presented in Table 2 below.

[0053] [Table 2]

[0054] Moisturizing and sensory properties of emulsions of the invention and of prior art emulsions Ingredients (% by mass) Control 255 Control 267 Invention 255 Invention 270 SORBITOL 8 8 s MALTITOL 13 13 13 DEXTWK 03 03 - æUUN - - - 83 GLYOERIMIN 15.7 - 5 6 PURIFIED WATER 5133 5733 5133 5133 Corneometer 6h: + 118% + 58% * 83% * 108% Sticky at TO 1.25 - 1 1 Conclusion#:

[0055] Emulsion 255 leaves a thin, slightly sticky film. It leaves the skin feeling velvety.

[0056] Control 265, containing only glycerin, exhibits a high moisturizing effect; however, the large amount of glycerin causes an unpleasant stickiness (> 1). Emulsion 265 is as moisturizing as emulsion 270 (with better sensory appeal for 270). They are significantly more moisturizing than emulsion 255.

[0057] Corneometry measurements show a significant moisturizing effect of compositions 255 and 270 of the invention, 6 hours after application, compared to the controls. Although slightly less moisturizing than control 265, these compositions of the invention have a significant moisturizing effect and, moreover, exhibit a low stickiness upon application, reflecting skin hydration.

[0058] The cosmetic composition of the invention is therefore particularly interesting for skin care and more pleasant to apply than the controls which contain too much glycerin or none at all, the sensoriality of which is not acceptable. Example 2#: Skin hydrating serum

[0059] Two oil-in-water emulsions were prepared containing 8% sorbitol, 1.2% maltitol, 6.0% glycerin and 0.5% dextrin or inulin.

[0060] [Table 3]

[0061] Serums according to the invention 259 and 271 INQ 259 271 À GLYCHERINE 5.0 A BUTYLENE GLYCDL 3.0 A KANEKA 5UREAŒN SODIUM SURFAZON 0.95 À PLURACARE £ FCC PEG-S LC À DIGLKER1N LCCHED ÒtHYD HYDROGENATED LEOTHIN 0^ B NWGL MEAD0WFOAM Oit L1MNANTHES ALBA SEED OIL 3.5 8 SQUALANE 3.5 C Eau pudW AQUA QglOQ C HYDRÛXYETHYL ACRYUTE / SÜDIUM ÀŎŎUELOHYLDHYLÏ COPOLVMER + SURSIT 1SQSTEARATE * POLYSORBATE 60 0.8 0 miœpHEfcŒN CHLORPHENESIN 0.27 C RHODICARE XC XANTHAN GUM 0.2 c SODWM HYAWWNATE 0.05 £ PENTYLENE GLEMQ 3, £20,000 PRY 8CRON NfLRlDE 0.5 FA^HQP£ LL LAURQYL LYSINE 1.0 G CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 H Alcohol W&v / v ALODHOL 3.CI NEOSORB SORBITCL 8.0 1 SWEETPEARL malhtol UI BEAUQUTE DEX 105••• 1ZERO 0.5 TOTAL 1®

[0062] Procedure of formulation:

[0063] Phase A (main phase) is solubilized under Rayneri at 80°C (500 rpm). The ingredients of phase B are heated to 80°C. Phase B is emulsified in phase A and stirred for 5 minutes under Rayneri to form a pre-emulsion (oil-in-glycol). Phase C1 is heated to 80°C and allowed to form a gel for 30 minutes (Rayneri). Phases C2 and C3 are then added, increasing the speed to 1000 rpm. Phase C must return to room temperature. Phase C (at room temperature) is added to phase A at 80°C under Rayneri (vigorous stirring: 800-1000 rpm). The mixture is processed under Ultra Turrax for 2 minutes (12,200 rpm). Phase E is added at 45°C (500 rpm) under Rayneri; the remaining phases are added at 40°C (500 rpm).

[0064] The prepared composition is a serum-type gel emulsion that does not stick upon application and has a significant moisturizing effect. Example 3#: Hydrating Foundation

[0065] The two water-in-oil emulsions in the table below are moisturizing foundations. The percentages are expressed as dry weight of the compound defined by its INCI name, except for the underlined ingredients which are mixtures and whose percentage is that of the mixture of compounds.

[0066] [Table 4]

[0067] Foundations according to the invention 58 and 69 INGREDIENTS ÏNQ ES 69 A PURIFIED WATER AQUA QS 100 A CHLORPHENES1N 0.3 B RHODORE SYMPHQLIGHT TITANIUM DIOXIDE (AND) SILO (AND) ALUMINA + IRON OXIDE (AND) SILO MO E SILO BUCKETS SB 156 SILO 3.0 F EMQGREEN L19 C15-19ALKÂNE 3.3 F' PAR5GL HS PHENYL8ENZIMIDAZOLE SULFONIC AUD 2.7 F TRIS AMWO ULTRA PC TROMETHAM1NE LS G SYMD1OL 6S M-HEXANEDIOL CAPRYLYL GLYCOL L$ H ETHYLHEXYL SAUCYLATE 4.5 H SOFTISAN 1W HYDROGENATED QXCFGLYORIDES H ÇEHQL ULTIMATE UNDECANE WDECANE 1.7 H PQLYAQUOL2W POLYGLYORYL-2 STEARATE GLYCERYL STEARATE STEARYL ALCOWQL 3J H EUMULGIN SG MB SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE 0.5 H SHEA BUTTER BUTYRCSPERMUM PARK11 (SHEA) BUTTER 0.3 H N1KKOL BEHENYL ALCOHOL 0.3 H STÏARiU STEARICACID PALMITIC ACID ÛJ H LIPDQRE A TABLETS C10-W TRIGLYCERIDES 1.0 I DIMETHIœNE 103 CS DIMETHICONE 0.7 J AMIHOPE LL MB LAUROYL LYSINE 1.0 J PENTYLENE GLYCOL 1.5 K BEAUTE S¥ ROQUETTE SORBITOL 8 K BEAUTE SY ROQUETTE MALTITOL 1.2 K BEAUTE 8¥ ROQUETTE DEXTRIN 0.5 -- K INUUN GS TOTAL 100.0

[0068] The emulsion according to the invention is prepared according to the process below.

[0069] Phase A (main beaker) is heated to 90°C under a deflocculator. B is mixed into C, then the mixture is added to Phase A to form a homogeneous gel (minimum 15 minutes). D is added (minimum 10 minutes under Rayneri, then 1 minute under Turrax at 9000 rpm), then E is added under Turrax for 1 minute at the same speed.

[0070] F is added, then G under a deflocculator, while heating the gelled aqueous phase to 90°C. H is heated to 95°C under a deflocculator. Phase H is emulsified under a deflocculator at 950 rpm in the main beaker for 11 minutes, then at 750 rpm for 4 minutes. 90°C. The emulsion is processed in a Turrax at 1000 rpm for 45 seconds, then at 12000 rpm for 15 seconds. The emulsion is then returned to the deflocculator at 500 rpm, and Phase I is added directly. The emulsion is allowed to cool to 50°C, then Phase J is added. Phase K is added at 40°C. Water is added to compensate for the reduced temperature, and agitation is stopped at 35°C.

[0071] The foundation has a pleasant and non-sticky application. It produces a moisturizing effect on the skin in addition to the makeup effect.

Claims

Demands

1. Emulsion for skin care or makeup comprising a mixture of sorbitol, glycerin and maltitol, the mass percentage of sorbitol in the emulsion being greater than or equal to that of glycerin, and the mass percentage of glycerin being itself strictly greater than that of maltitol, the emulsion further comprising at least one gluco-oligoside selected from dextrin and inulin.

2. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from 4% to 8% by mass of glycerin.

3. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the mass ratio between sorbitol and gluco-oligoside is between 10:1 and 22:1 and in that the mass ratio between sorbitol and maltitol is between 20:1 and 8:

1.

4. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains more than 9% by mass, preferably more than 12% by mass, of a mixture consisting of sorbitol, maltitol, gluco-oligoside and glycerin.

5. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 2.0% to 9.0% by mass of sorbitol and from 0.5% to 2.0% by mass of maltitol.

6. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises from 0.02% to 1.0% of dextrin, from 0.02% to 1.0% of inulin or from 0.02% to 1.0% of a mixture consisting of dextrin and inulin

7. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase dispersed in an aqueous phase and that the oily phase represents from 5% to 35% by mass of the mass of the emulsion.

8. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous phase comprises a filler of amorphous silica.

9. Emulsion for skin care or makeup according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is used as a skin care cream.

10. A makeup or skincare method comprising a step of applying to the skin an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 9.