Compositions containing a UV-absorbing system including a physical UV-attenuating material and an emollient system

A UV-absorbing composition with a physical UV attenuating material and a blend of spreading emollients addresses the challenges of greasiness and whitening in sunscreen, providing effective and pleasant UV protection.

FR3169325A3Pending Publication Date: 2026-06-12LOREAL SA

Patent Information

Authority / Receiving Office
FR · FR
Patent Type
Utility models
Current Assignee / Owner
LOREAL SA
Filing Date
2024-12-10
Publication Date
2026-06-12

AI Technical Summary

Technical Problem

Existing sunscreen compositions struggle to provide high UV protection without being greasy, leaving white marks, and achieving a balanced UVA and UVB protection, while maintaining a pleasant texture.

Method used

A composition comprising a UV-absorbing system with a physical UV attenuating material and an emollient system including fast-, medium-, and slow-spreading emollients, ensuring non-greasy and non-whitening application.

Benefits of technology

The composition achieves high UV protection with balanced UVA and UVB efficacy, maintaining a pleasant texture and avoiding white marks, enhancing sensory properties during application.

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Abstract

Compositions Containing a UV-Absorbing System Including a UV-Attenuating Physical Material and an Emollient System. This disclosure relates to compositions including a UV-absorbing system comprising at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material and an emollient system comprising at least three emollients, as well as processes for manufacturing and using such compositions. Figure for abstract: none
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Description

Title of the invention: Compositions containing a UV-absorbing system comprising a UV-attenuating physical material and an emollient system FIELD OF INVENTION

[0001] This disclosure relates to compositions comprising a UV-absorbing system including at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material and an emollient system including at least three emollients, as well as methods for manufacturing and using such compositions. BACKGROUND DISCUSSION

[0002] Exposure to radiation with wavelengths between 290 nm and 400 nm, known as UV radiation or simply "UVR," is implicated in a number of skin diseases and conditions. Exposure to radiation with wavelengths between 290 and 320 nm, also known as UVB radiation, can lead to numerous adverse changes in the biomechanical properties, appearance, and health of the epidermis, resulting in erythema (sunburn), immediate darkening of the skin, the appearance of wrinkles leading to premature skin aging (i.e., photoaging), and various other skin health problems that may include melanoma or other photocancers of the skin.

[0003] UVA rays with wavelengths between 320 and 400 nm penetrate the skin more deeply than UVB rays. Exposure to UVA rays can cause immediate and persistent tanning of the skin, as well as other changes in skin texture or appearance. Daily exposure to UVA rays, even for a short period under normal conditions, can damage collagen and elastin fibers, resulting in changes in the skin's microrelief, the appearance of wrinkles, and uneven pigmentation (spots, uneven skin tone).

[0004] Numerous studies show the need for effective protection against UVA and UVB to prevent sunburn, photoaging and other skin conditions or diseases related to UVR exposure.

[0005] In order to obtain a product offering high protection against UVR, it is generally necessary to combine a large number of sunscreens and / or a large quantity of UV filters to achieve high levels of filtration efficiency.

[0006] However, high levels of UV filters do not lend themselves to the easy formulation of stable compositions with a pleasant texture. It is possible to obtain high UV protection using one or more organic UV filters; however, organic UV filters are often very greasy and unpleasant when applied to the skin, particularly when used at high levels in a sunscreen formulation required for high UV protection efficacy.

[0007] Mineral UV filters such as titanium dioxide or zinc oxide are alternative UV filter choices to organic UV filters that can provide more pleasant textures; however, when one or more mineral UV filters are used, the resulting sunscreen formulation is far too whitening (i.e., it leaves "white streaks") when applied to the skin. When mineral UV filters are used at lower levels, it may be possible to produce sunscreen formulations with little or no whitening when applied to the skin; however, such formulations, containing low levels of mineral UV filters, are unable to produce the desired high levels of UV protection.

[0008] Finally, it can be difficult to combine an organic UV filter and a mineral UV filter in a single composition, especially in order to obtain a non-greasy, pleasant, non-whitening and high UV protection sunscreen formulation, particularly taking into account the need to balance the effectiveness of UVA and UVB protection.

[0009] There remains a need in the art of improved sunscreen compositions which have high UV protection and balanced UVA and UVB protection, which are not greasy, which are pleasant to apply and which do not leave white marks when applied to the skin.

[0010] Therefore, one aspect of the present disclosure is a composition that is not greasy, that does not whiten when applied to the skin, and that has high UV protection. Summary of the invention

[0011] This disclosure relates to compositions comprising a UV-absorbing system including at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material and an emollient system including at least three emollients, wherein at least one emollient is a fast-spreading emollient, at least one is a medium-spreading emollient, and at least one is a slow-spreading emollient. Preferably, the compositions are non-greasy and / or non-bleaching (i.e., the compositions do not leave white residue) upon application.

[0012] This disclosure also relates to processes for the treatment, care, protection, enhancement of appearance and / or makeup of keratinous material, including the application of compositions of this disclosure to keratinous material in sufficient quantity to treat the keratinous material, care for it, enhance its appearance and / or make it up.

[0013] This disclosure also relates to processes for manufacturing non-greasy and / or non-bleaching compositions comprising at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material by combining at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material, at least one fast-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient, and at least one slow-spreading emollient during the formation of the compositions to produce compositions that are non-greasy and / or non-bleaching.

[0014] This disclosure also relates to methods for enhancing the sensory properties when applying to the skin a composition comprising at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material, wherein the method includes adding at least one fast-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient, and at least one slow-spreading emollient to a composition comprising at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material during the formation of the composition in sufficient quantities to enhance the sensory properties of the composition when applied to the skin.

[0015] It must be understood that both the preceding general description and the following detailed description are merely illustrative and explanatory and do not limit disclosure. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0016] In the following description and the claims annexed thereto, it shall be understood that the terms used have their ordinary and usual meanings in the art, unless otherwise specified.

[0017] “Approximately” as used here means to within 10% of the number indicated (for example, “ "Approximately 10%" means from 9% to 11% and "approximately 2%" means from 1.8% to 2.2%.

[0018] “Film-forming”, “film-forming polymer” or “film-forming agent” as used herein refers to a polymer or resin that allows a film to be left on the substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film-forming agent has evaporated, been absorbed into the substrate and / or dissipated on it.

[0019] “Substitute” as used herein means comprising at least one substitute. Non-limiting examples of substituents include atoms, such as hydrogen or chlorine atoms, as well as functional groups, such as hydroxyl groups, ether groups, alkoxy groups, and other groups. acyloxyalkyl groups, oxyalkylene groups, polyoxyalkylene groups, carboxylic acid groups, amine groups, acylamino groups, amide groups, halogen-containing groups, ester groups, thiol groups, sulfonate groups, thiosulfate groups, siloxane groups, and polysiloxane groups. The substituent(s) may, in addition, be substituted.

[0020] “Volatile”, as used herein, means having a flash point below approximately 115 °C.

[0021] “Non-volatile”, as used here, means having a flash point greater than approximately 115 °C.

[0022] “Polymer” as used herein means a compound that is made up of at least two monomers.

[0023] “Fast-spreading emollient” as used herein refers to emollients which They glide easily onto keratinous material (skin) and are rapidly absorbed after application, without forming a visibly perceptible film on the skin. "Fast-spreading emollients" have a low molecular weight (i.e., less than approximately 250 g / mol). Preferably, they also have a low viscosity of less than approximately 10 mPa·s at or around room temperature (25 °C).

[0024] “Slow-spreading emollient” as used herein refers to emollients that spread Slow-spreading emollients spread slowly and form a visibly perceptible film on the keratinous material (skin) after application. They may also appear heavier or more substantial than other emollients. Slow-spreading emollients have a high molecular weight (i.e., greater than approximately 300 g / mol). Preferably, they also have a high viscosity, greater than approximately 10 mPa·s at or around room temperature (25 °C).

[0025] “Medium-spreading emollient” as used herein refers to emollients including between "fast-spreading emollients" and "slow-spreading emollients". "Medium-spreading emollients" have a medium molecular weight (i.e., between approximately 250 g / mol and approximately 300 g / mol) and do not have a preferred viscosity.

[0026] “Exempt” or “substantially exempt” or “devoid of”, as used herein, This means that, although it is preferable that no quantity of the specific component be present in the composition, it is possible for very small quantities of it to be present in the compositions of the disclosure, provided that these quantities do not materially affect at least one, preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the compositions of the disclosure. Thus, for example, "dye-free" means that an effective quantity (i.e., greater than trace amounts) of dye(s) is omitted from the composition (i.e., about 0% by weight), while "substantially dye-free" means that one or more dye(s) is / are present in quantities not exceeding 0.1% by weight, and "dye-free" means that one or more dyes is / are present in quantities not exceeding 0.25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The same nomenclature applies to all other ingredients identified throughout the application and in this paragraph, such as, for example, UV filters and / or specific surfactants (the compositions in the disclosure that are "free of oxybenzone and / or octinoxate," "substantially free of oxybenzone and / or octinoxate," and "free of oxybenzone and / or octinoxate," as well as "surfactant-free," "substantially free of surfactants," and "surfactant-free" have meanings consistent with the discussion in this paragraph), even if they are not specifically mentioned in the application for each identified ingredient.The examples cited of the use of such language as that in this paragraph are intended to be provided as examples, not as limitations.

[0027] “UV Filters” as used herein means approved sunscreen active agents by a government regulatory agency such as the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States or the European Commission in Europe and includes organic UV filters such as avobenzone, octocrylene, benzophenones, benzotriazoles and merocyanines, as well as physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuation materials.

[0028] “Whitening” or “white marks”, as used herein, refers to the appearance The visually white appearance of the keratinous substance after a composition has been applied to the keratinous material, compared to the appearance of the keratinous material before application. A composition is "non-bleaching" if it provides a minimal or no visually white appearance (preferably no visually white appearance) of the keratinous material upon application.

[0029] “Anhydrous” as used here means that the compositions of the disclosure contain less than 3% water, which means that compositions can also contain less than 2% water, and less than 1% water, as well as be "water-free", "substantially water-free" and "water-free".

[0030] A “UV-absorbing system containing essentially at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material” as used here means that the disclosure compositions contain less than 3% of UV filters other than the physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material(s), in particular less than 3% of organic UV filters, which means that in this definition, as subcategories, we find compositions containing less than 2% of UV filters other than the physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material(s), in particular less than 2% of organic UV filters, and less than 1% of UV filters other than the UV attenuation physical material(s), in particular less than 1% organic UV filters, and being "free of UV filters other than UV attenuation physical material", "substantially free of UV filters other than UV attenuation physical material" and "devoid of UV filters other than UV attenuation physical material" as defined above.

[0031] “System” and “component” are used interchangeably in the present request.

[0032] “Primary particle” as used in relation to the description of the material Ultraviolet (UV) attenuation physics here refers to inorganic or organic particles (structures) that can be held together by molecular or atomic bonding to form an ultraviolet (UV) attenuation physics material.

[0033] “Primary particle size” means the size of a non-aggregated primary particle in a physical material for attenuating ultraviolet (UV).

[0034] “Passive”, as used in connection with the description of a physical material Ultraviolet (UV) attenuation, here refers to a material that has been treated in such a way that the potential for the release of ionic species when in contact with water is reduced compared to the same non-passivated material.

[0035] “Keratinous materials” or “keratinous substance” means nails (nails fingers and / or toes), skin such as that of the body, face and around the eyes, scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, and mucous membranes such as lips.

[0036] “Physiologically acceptable” means compatible with keratinous materials and having a pleasant color, smell and feel, and which does not cause unacceptable discomfort (tingling or pulling) likely to discourage a consumer from using the composition.

[0037] “UV protection efficiency” or “filtration efficiency” in the context of This disclosure is evaluated based on one or more of the following: FPS, FPUVA, critical wavelength, and UVA-I / UV ratio.

[0038] The "SPF" (Sun Protection Factor) measures the level of protection against erythema caused by a composition. The SPF value corresponds to the ratio between the minimum erythematous dose (MED) measured on skin covered with the composition and the MED measured on bare skin. The term "SPF" is well known in the field of sunscreens and is defined, for example, in "A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum," J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (May / June 1989).

[0039] The evaluation of the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) can be carried out, for example, in vitro with a spectrophotometer from Labsphere (North Sutton, NH, USA). In such an evaluation, the plate is the material onto which the composition under test is applied. For such an evaluation, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) plates can be used. An example of an acceptable protocol is currently undergoing ISO accreditation under the name ISO Committee Draft 23675.

[0040] The evaluation of the sun protection factor (SPF) can also be performed in vivo in accordance with ISO 24444:2019 “Cosmetics-Sun protection test methods-In-vivo determination of the sun protection factor (SPF).” It can also be determined in accordance with FDA protocols, as described in the document “Labeling and Effectiveness Testing; Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter Human Use” published in the U.S. Federal Register on May 7, 2011 (https: / / www.federalregister.gov / d / 2011-14766); 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72, updated and revised by the 2011 publication in the Federal Register.

[0041] “UVA protection factor” refers to an index characterizing the UVA protection provided by a composition. For example, the UVA protection factor (UPPF) can be measured in vivo according to the "PPD" (Persistent Pigment Darkening) method of the ISO-24442:2022 protocol, measuring the skin color observed 2 to 4 hours after UVA exposure. It can also be determined according to FDA protocols, as described again in 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72 as mentioned above in relation to SPF.

[0042] UVA protection can also be assessed in vitro using the Labsphere® spectrophotometer under conditions such as those mentioned above in relation to the SPF. ISO 24443:2021 describes such an in vitro procedure.

[0043] FDA broad-spectrum test procedures, particularly "critical wavelength" test procedures, are also available in 21 CFR Part 352 Subpart D § 352.72. In addition, broad-spectrum test procedures include the determination of the UVA1 / UV ratio as described in "Sunscreen Drug Products for Over-the-Counter-Human-Use" published in the Federal Register https: / / www.federalregister.gov / documents / 2019 / 02 / 26 / 2019-03019 / sunscreen-drug-products-for-over-the-counter-human-use.

[0044] According to this disclosure, the compositions in this disclosure preferably have one or more of the following properties:

[0045] The compositions have a critical wavelength, as determined by FDA critical wavelength procedures, of at least 370 nm;

[0046] The compositions have an FPS value of at least 15, preferably at least 30, preferably at least 50 and preferably at least 70;

[0047] The compositions have an FPUVA / FPS ratio of at least 1 / 3, and preferably of at least 2 / 5; and / or

[0048] The compositions have a UVA1 / UV ratio of 0.7 or more, preferably 0.75 or more, and preferably 0.8 or more.

[0049] “Makeup result”, as used herein, refers to compositions where The color remains the same or substantially the same as at the time of application, as observed with the naked eye, after a prolonged period. The "makeup result" can be evaluated by assessing the long-lasting properties using any method known in the art for evaluating such properties. For example, long-lasting performance can be assessed by a test involving the application of a composition to a keratinous material such as skin and evaluating the color of the composition after a prolonged period. For example, the color of a composition can be evaluated immediately after application to a keratinous material such as skin, and these characteristics can then be reassessed and compared after a certain duration. Furthermore, these characteristics can be evaluated in relation to other compositions, such as commercially available compositions.

[0050] “Natural” as in the expression “natural compound” means any compound derived directly from a natural substance such as a plant without having undergone chemical modification.

[0051] “Compound of natural origin” means any compound derived from a natural compound which has undergone one or more chemical modifications, for example by organic synthesis reaction, without the properties of the natural compound having been modified.

[0052] “Synthetic compound” means any compound that is neither a natural compound nor a composed of natural origin.

[0053] “Room temperature” means approximately 20 to 25 °C.

[0054] “Atmospheric pressure” means approximately 760 mmHg, i.e. approximately 105 pascals.

[0055] “UV filter” and “sunscreen agent” are used interchangeably in the present request.

[0056] “UV effectiveness”, “UV effectiveness” and “UV protection effectiveness” are used interchangeably in this application.

[0057] The compositions and processes of the present invention may include, consist of, or essentially consist of the essential elements and limitations of the disclosure described herein, together with any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described herein or otherwise useful. For example, the UV (ultraviolet) absorbing system of the compositions in the disclosure may “consist essentially in » at least one(s) physical material(s) for attenuating ultraviolet (UV).

[0058] For the purposes of this disclosure, the "fundamental and novel property" associated with compositions, components and processes related to UV protection properties that "consist essentially of" identified ingredients or actions is "UVA protection indicated by the FPUVA / FPS and UVA1 / UV ratios"

[0059] For the purposes of this disclosure, the "fundamental novel property" associated with compositions, components and processes related to the properties of the composition when applied to keratinous material that "consist essentially of" identified ingredients or actions means "enhanced sensory properties when applied to the skin".

[0060] “Improvement of sensory properties when applied to the skin” As used here, "sensory properties" refers to the diffusion of sensory properties over time during application to the skin. The most optimal "sensory properties," as used here, refer to compositions that have a pleasant, smooth, and lubricating feel throughout the application of the product to a keratinous substrate. By way of comparison, using only fast-spreading emollients in a composition would result in a composition that provides a pleasant, lubricating sensation only during the initial application and becomes unpleasant for the remainder of the application time. Conversely, using only slow-spreading emollients in a composition would result in a composition that feels heavy and greasy throughout the application.Using only medium-spreading emollients would result in a composition that would not be particularly pleasant or lubricating throughout the application.

[0061] The compositions of this disclosure may be in any form suitable for use as a personal care composition, such as a stick, paste, cream, anhydrous composition, emulsion (oil-in-water, water-in-oil, multiple emulsion such as oil-in-water-in-oil), nanoemulsion, gel, liquid, solid, etc. These compositions may be used for all personal care purposes in cosmetic and / or dermatological products such as, for example, sunscreen, foundation, lip balms, lipsticks, concealers, mascaras, leave-in hair products, eyeshadows, powders, etc.

[0062] Reference is made herein to trade names of materials including, but not limited to, materials such as polymers and optional components. The materials are not intended to be limited by the materials described and referenced by a particular trade name herein. Equivalent materials (for example, those obtained from a different source under a different name or catalogue (reference) number) to those referenced by a trade name may be substituted for and used in the processes described and claimed herein.

[0063] Unless otherwise stated, all percentages and ratios are calculated by weight. Unless otherwise stated, all percentages are calculated relative to the total weight of a composition. All component or composition rates refer to the active rate of that component or composition and are understood to exclude impurities, for example, residual solvents or by-products, which may be present in commercially available sources. COMPOSITION UV attenuating physical material

[0064] According to this disclosure, compositions comprising at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material are proposed. "Physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material" as used herein refers to solid inorganic ingredients that absorb incoming ultraviolet (UV) light and may optionally scatter incoming ultraviolet (UV) light, when present in the compositions disclosed herein. The physical UV attenuation material preferably comprises one or more metal oxides such as, for example, oxides of titanium, chromium, zinc, tin, alumina, cerium, and / or iron.# Specific examples of suitable metal oxide(s) include, but are not limited to, at least one metal oxide selected from the group consisting of titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, tin oxide, alumina, cerium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

[0065] The UV attenuating physical material may be subjected to a surface treatment agent to improve the sensoriality, performance and / or compatibility of the compositions disclosed herein. Suitable surface treatment agents may include hydrophobic or hydrophilic surface treatment agents such as, for example, those described in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, including, but not limited to, specific examples such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid salts, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin, lecithin derivatives, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina and / or glycerol. Preferably, the physical UV attenuation material is passivated.

[0066] According to one embodiment, at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is surface-treated with a surface treatment agent, preferably a surface treatment agent comprising at least one of the following acids amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid salts, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin compounds, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides other than at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] According to one embodiment, the at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material comprises zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide, preferably coated with a coating agent, preferably the coating agent comprising at least one of hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone, hydrogen dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises one or more of zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide. Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprising one or more of zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide is passivated.

[0069] According to preferred embodiments, the UV attenuation physical material comprises titanium dioxide. The titanium dioxide may be present in any form in the compositions disclosed herein. Furthermore, the TiO2 may be treated (coated) or untreated.

[0070] According to preferred embodiments, the UV attenuation physical material comprises zinc oxide. The zinc oxide may be present in any form (for example, as wurtzite or zinc blende) in the compositions disclosed herein. Furthermore, the zinc oxide may be treated (coated) or untreated.

[0071] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises zinc oxide. Preferably, the zinc oxide is passivated.

[0072] Preferably, the UV attenuation physical material comprises titanium dioxide. Preferably, the titanium dioxide is passivated.

[0073] Preferably, the average primary particle size of the ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is from 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably from 5 nm to 250 nm, preferably from 10 nm to 100 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 50 nm, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 25 nm to 40 nm, 10 nm to 75 nm and 15 nm to 150 nm.

[0074] Suitable examples of coated pigments include, but are not limited to, titanium dioxides that have been coated such as titanium dioxides:

[0075] - with hydrated silica, such as Tayca's MT-100WP product,

[0076] - with silica and iron oxide, such as the Ikeda product Sunveil F®,

[0077] - with silica and alumina, such as the MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® products from Tayca and Tioveil™ AQ-N from Croda,

[0078] - with alumina, such as Ishihara's TTO-55 (A)® product,

[0079] - with alumina and aluminum stearate, such as MT-100TV® products, MT-100Z® and MT-01® from Tayca, the Solaveil™ CT 100® product from Croda and the Eusolex T-AVO® product from Merck,

[0080] - with silica, alumina and alginic acid, such as product MT-100AQ ® by Tayca,

[0081] - with alumina and aluminum laurate,

[0082] - with iron oxide and iron stearate,

[0083] - with zinc oxide and zinc stearate,

[0084] - with silica and alumina and treated with a silicone, such as the products MTY-500SAS® or Microtitanium Dioxide MT-100SAS® from Tayca,

[0085] - with silica, alumina and aluminum stearate and treated with a silicone,

[0086] - with silica and treated with silicone,

[0087] - with silica and treated with a silicone, such as the product TTO-55(S)® of Ishihara;

[0088] - with triethanolamine,

[0089] - with stearic acid, such as Ishihara's TTO-55 (C)® product,

[0090] - with sodium hexametaphosphate,

[0091] - with octyltrimethylsilane,

[0092] - with a polydimethylsiloxane, with TiO2 (anatase / rutile phases) treated with a polydimethylhydrogenosiloxane

[0093] - with triethylhexanoin, with aluminium stearate and with alumina sold under the trade name Solaveil™ CT-200 by Croda,

[0094] - with aluminium stearate, alumina and silicone, marketed under the trade name Solaveil™ CT-12W by Croda,

[0095] - with lauroyl lysine, and / or

[0096] - with C9-Ci5 fluoroalcohol phosphate and with aluminium hydroxide.

[0097] We can also mention TiO2 pigments doped with a transition metal such as iron, zinc, or manganese, preferably manganese. Preferably, the doped pigments are in the form of an oil dispersion. The oil in the oil dispersion is preferably selected from triglycerides such as, for example, capric / caprylic acids. The oil dispersion of titanium dioxide particles may also include one or more dispersants, for example, a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan T isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylated fatty acid ester of glycerol, such as TRLPPG-3 myristyl ether citrate. and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate. Preferably, the oily dispersion of titanium dioxide particles includes at least one dispersant selected from polyoxyalkylated fatty acid esters of glycerol. A particular example is the oily dispersion of manganese-doped TiO2 particles in capric / caprylic acid triglyceride in the presence of TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate and sorbitan isostearate, having the INCI name: titanium dioxide (and) TRI-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate (and) polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate (and) sorbitan isostearate, for example, the product sold under the trade name Optisol™ OTP-1 by Croda.

[0098] Suitable uncoated titanium oxide includes, but is not limited to, those sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B®, or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.

[0099] Appropriate examples of uncoated zinc oxide include, but are not limited to, zinc oxide marketed under the name "Z-COTE®" by BASF, zinc oxide marketed under the name "NanoArc® Zinc Oxide" by Nanophase Technologies, zinc oxide marketed under the name "MZ-500", "MZ-300", "MZ-200" or "MZ-150" by TAYCA.

[0100] Treated zinc oxide (coated) compounds are compounds that have undergone one or more surface treatments of a chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and / or mechanical nature with compounds such as described, for example, in Cosmetics & Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, pp. 53-64, such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminum salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (titanium or aluminum), polyethylene, silicones, hydrated silica, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, triethoxycaprylylsilane, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.

[0101] Examples of suitable coated zinc oxide include, but are not limited to, polymethylhydrogensiloxane-coated zinc oxide; zinc oxide dispersed in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate (INCI: Zinc Oxide (and) Cl2-15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Isostearic Acid), marketed by Croda under the trade name Sovaveil CZ-100; C9-12 alkane zinc oxide dispersions with a dispersing agent, marketed under the trade name "DAITOPERSION Zn-60VA"® by Daito Kasei; silicone-grafted acrylic polymer-coated ZnO dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane, marketed under the name "SPD-Z5®" by Shin-Etsu; ZnO coated with hydrated silica, marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-500HP"; ZnO coated with hydrated silica, of triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone and hydrogenodimethicone (H-Me-Si), marketed by TAYCA under the name MZ-510 HPSX; stearic acid-coated ZnO or isostearic acid-coated ZnO, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZ-505T", "MZY-505EX" or "MZY-304EX"; silicone oil-coated ZnO, such as those marketed by TAYCA under the name "MZX-510HPS", "MZY-505S", "MZY-510M3S", "MZ-505M", "MZY-303S", "MZY-303M", "MZY-203S", "MZY-210M3S" or "MZY-153S"; triethoxycaprylylsilane-coated ZnO, such as those marketed by BASF under the name Z-COTE HP1, or by TAYCA under the name "MZX-508OTS", "MZY-203OTS" or "MZX-304OTS" or by DSM under the name PARSOL ZX; for example: ZnO marketed under the brand name "Zinc Oxide CS-5" by Toshiba (ZnO coated with polymethylhydrosiloxane); ZnO marketed under the brand name "Nanogard Zinc Oxide FN" by Nanophase Technologies (as a 40% dispersion in Finsolv TN, C12-C15 alkyl benzoate);ZnO marketed under the brand name "Daitopersion Zn-30" and "Daitopersion Zn-50" by Daito (dispersions in polydimethylsiloxane / oxyethylenated cyclopolymethylsiloxane comprising 30% or 50% of zinc nanooxides coated with silica and polymethylhydrosiloxane); ZnO marketed under the brand name "NFD Ultrafine ZnO" by Daikin (ZnO coated with perfluoroalkyl phosphate and a perfluoroalkylethyl copolymer dispersed in cyclopentasiloxane); ZnO marketed under the brand name "SPD-Z1" by Shin-Etsu (ZnO coated with a silicone-grafted acrylic polymer dispersed in cyclodimethylsiloxane); ZnO marketed under the brand name "Escol Z100" by ISP (alumina-treated ZnO dispersed in a copolymer mixture of ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate / PVP-hexadecene methicone); ZnO marketed under the brand name "Fuji ZnO-SMS-10" by Fuji Pigment (ZnO coated with silica and polymethylsilsesquioxane); and ZnO marketed under the brand name "Nanox Gel TN" by Elementis (ZnO dispersed at 55% in C12-C15 alkyl benzoate with hydroxystearic acid polycondensate); ZnO marketed under the brand name Finex by SAKAI such as FINEX-50LP, FINEX-50S-LP2 and FINEX-30S-LPT (ZnO coated with hydrogenodimethicone); FINEX-33W (ZnO coated with hydrated silica), FINEX-52W-LP2 and FINEX-33W-LP2 (ZnO coated with hydrogenodimethicone and hydrated silica), FINEX-50-OTS and FINEX-30-OTS (ZnO coated with triethoxycaprylysilane).

[0102] Preferred coatings for zinc oxide preferably comprise one or more of the following: hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl, hexyl dimethicone, hydrogen dimethicone and / or triethoxycaprylylsilane.

[0103] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, zinc oxide may be in the form of wafers, and may be coated or uncoated. Suitable examples of such forms are marketed by Croda under the name Solaveil (MicNo), such as Solaveil MXP3, MZP7, MZP8, MZ3-100, MZ3-300, and MZ7-100. Preferably, the zinc oxide wafers useful according to this disclosure (1) have a median specific surface area of ​​more than 25 square meters per gram, preferably greater than 30 square meters per gram, and / or (2) are transparent (i.e., with a transmission >30% at 600 nm). Suitable examples of such wafer forms may also be found in US Patent 11,608,275.

[0104] Suitable examples of other coated oxides include, but are not limited to, coated oxides preferably having amphiphilic properties such as:

[0105] - titanium oxides coated with cetyl phosphate and silica, such as the product " Eusolex® T-EASY” from Merck;

[0106] - titanium oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and stearic acid, such as as “MTY-200STW” from Tayca;

[0107] - zinc oxides coated with polyglyceryl-10 oleate and isostearic acid, such as as “MZY-505EXW” from Tayca;

[0108] - titanium oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as " Tayca's MT-10EXW; and

[0109] - zinc oxides coated with polysorbate 80 and isostearic acid, such as " Tayca's MZY-304EXW.

[0110] Preferably, at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount of at least about 5% by weight, preferably at least about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12% by weight, preferably at least about 14% by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, the upper end of the range of ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material present preferably being about 40% by weight (such as about 5 to 40%, about 10 to 40%, about 12 to 40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (such as about 5 to 30%, about 10 to 30%, about 12 to 30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight (such as about 5 to 25%, about 10 to 25%, about 12 at 25%, etc.), and preferably about 20% by weight (such as about 5 to 20%, about 10 to 20%, about 12 to 20%, etc.), all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

[0111] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure contain a UV-absorbing system containing essentially one or more ultraviolet (UV) attenuation physical material(s) as defined above.

[0112]

[0113]

[0114] Emollient system According to this disclosure, compositions comprising an emollient system including at least three emollients, in which at least one emollient is a rapid-spreading emollient, at least one emollient is a medium-spreading emollient, and at least one emollient is a slow-spreading emollient, are proposed. The table below describes some emollients and their designation as fast-spreading, medium-spreading, or slow-spreading emollients based on their molecular weight. [Tables 1] INCI US Molecular Weight (MW) (g / mol) Spreading Phenethyl Benzoate 226.3 Fast C15-C19 Alkane 197 to approximately 249.4 Fast Isohexadecane 226.4 Fast Diisopropyl Adipate 230.3 Fast Dicaprylyl Ether 242.4 Fast Isopropyl Myristate 270.5 Medium Isononyl Isononanoate 284.5 Medium Diisopropyl Sebacate 286.4 Medium Dicaprylyl Carbonate 286.4 Medium Benzoate C12-C15 alkyl benzoate 290.4 Medium Octyldodecanol 298.5 Medium Isopropyl palmitate 298.5 Medium Coco caprylate / caprate Approximately 312 Slow Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 313.5 Slow Cocoglycerides Approximately 320 Slow Ethylhexyl palmitate 368.6 Slow Caprylic / capric triglyceride 380 Slow Cetearyl isononanoate 382.7 Slow Dicaprylate / dicaprate 380 Slow

[0115] Preferred fast-spreading emollients include, but are not limited to, C15-C19 alkane, dicaprylyl ether, isohexadecane and mixtures thereof.

[0116] Preferred medium-spreading emollients include, but are not limited to, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

[0117] Preferred slow-spreading emollients include, but are not limited to, cetearyl isononanoate.

[0118] In preferred embodiments of this disclosure, at least one rapid-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient, and / or at least one slow-spreading emollient are selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbons, ethers, amides, esters, and mixtures thereof, each optionally containing one or more functional groups such as, for example, alcohols, thiols, amines, ketones, alkenes, and / or aromatic rings. The at least one rapid-spreading emollient, the at least one medium-spreading emollient, and the at least one slow-spreading emollient may comprise branched structures.

[0119] According to preferred embodiments, the emollient system may comprise, consist essentially of, or consist of hydrocarbons.

[0120] According to preferred embodiments, the emollient system is "free", "substantially free" or "devoid", as defined above, of silicones.

[0121] Preferably, the emollient system is present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount of at least 5% by weight, preferably at least about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12% by weight, preferably at least about 14% by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, the upper end of the range of the emollient system present being preferably about 40% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 40%, about 10 to 40%, about 12 to 40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 30%, about 10 to 30%, about 12 to 30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight. weight (e.g. about 5 to 25%, about 10 to 25%, about 12 to 25%, etc.), and preferably about 20% by weight (e.g. about 5 to 20%, about 10 to 20%, about 12 to 20%, etc.), all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

[0122] Preferably, more fast-spreading emollient(s) is / are present in the compositions of this disclosure than (1) medium-spreading emollient(s) and / or (2) slow-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0123] Preferably, more medium-spreading emollient(s) is / are present in the compositions of this disclosure than slow-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0124] Preferably, at least twice as much fast-spreading emollient(s) is / are present in the compositions of this disclosure as medium-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 2.3 times more, preferably at least 2.5 times more, and preferably at least 3 times more.

[0125] Preferably, at least twice as much medium-spreading emollient(s) is / are present in the compositions of this disclosure as slow-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 2.3 times more, preferably at least 2.5 times more, and preferably at least 3 times more.

[0126] Preferably, at least three times more rapid-spreading emollient(s) is / are present in the compositions of this disclosure than medium-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 3.5 times more, preferably at least 4 times more, and preferably at least 5 times more.

[0127] Preferably, the weight ratio of (1) the combined amount of at least one fast-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient and at least one slow-spreading emollient to (2) the at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material present in the compositions of this disclosure is about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably about 3:1 to about 1:3, preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2, and preferably about 1.5:1 to about 1:1.5, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0128] Without wishing to be bound by any theory, it is thought that the combination of emollients with the different diffusion characteristics defined with at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material allows for a sunscreen composition having a pleasing aesthetic throughout the application of the sunscreen composition on a keratinous material, while also inhibiting the white streak effect. Additional sunscreen agents

[0129] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, compositions optionally further comprising at least one additional UV filter (in addition to at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material) selected from the group consisting of organic UV filters are proposed. However, as noted above, preferred embodiments of this disclosure include compositions of this disclosure containing a UV-absorbing system containing little or no organic UV filter as defined above.

[0130] The additional organic UV filter(s) may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. “Hydrophilic organic UV filter” means a water-soluble organic UV filter or a water-dispersible organic UV filter (in colloidal form). “Lipophilic organic UV filter” means a UV filter that is dissolved or dispersed in colloidal form in a liquid oil phase.

[0131] Suitable organic UV filters may be selected from the following non-exhaustive list of compounds: cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; para-aminobenzoic acid compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; [3,[3-diphenylacrylate] compounds; triazine compounds such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, including those cited in US patent 5,624,663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzoazolyl compounds as described in patents EP669323 and US 2,463,264; the compounds methylene bis(hydroxyphenyl benzotriazole) as described in applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB2303549, DE197 26 184 and EP893119; the compounds benzoxazole as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844;Polymer filters and silicone filters such as those described in particular in application WO 93 / 04665; alkylstyrene-derived dimers such as those described in patent application DE19855649; 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds such as those described in applications EP0967200, DE19746654, DE19755649, EP-A-1008586, EPI 133980 and EP133981, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, lipophilic organic UV filters are selected from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidene camphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; as well as other categories of compounds identified herein; and mixtures thereof.

[0132] Specific reference may be made to suitable salicylic compounds including homosalate (homomentyl salicylate), for example marketed under Examples include the brand name "Eusolex HMS" by Rona / EM Industries; ethylhexyl salicylate, for example, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan OS" by Symrise; and glycol salicylate. Other examples of salicylate compounds include phenyl salicylate; dipropylene glycol salicylate, for example, marketed under the brand name "Dipsal" by Scher; and TEA salicylate, for example, marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan TS" by Symrise.

[0133] Examples of suitable [3,[3-diphenylacrylate compounds include octocrylene, for example marketed under the brand name "Uvinul N539" by BASF; and etocrylene, for example marketed under the brand name "Uvinul N35" by BASF.

[0134] Suitable anthranilic compounds may include menthyl anthranilates, for example marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan MA" by Symrise.

[0135] Examples of dibenzoylmethane compounds include butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, for example marketed under the brand name "Parsol 1789" by DSM; and isopropyl dibenzoylmethane.

[0136] Suitable cinnamyl compounds include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, marketed for example under the brand name "Parsol MCX" by DSM; isopropyl methoxycinnamate; isopropoxyl methoxycinnamate; isoamyl methoxycinnamate, marketed for example under the brand name "Neo Heliopan E 1000" by Symrise; cinoxate (2-ethoxyethyl-4-methoxycinnamate); DEA methoxycinnamate; diisopropyl methylcinnamate; and glyceryl dimethoxycinnamate ethylhexanoate.

[0137] Examples of camphor compounds include camphor benzylidene derivatives: 3-benzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SD" by Chimex; 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Eusolex 6300" by Merck; benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SL" by Noveal; benzalkonium methosulfate camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SO" by Noveal; terephthalylidene dicamphre sulfonic acid, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SX" by Noveal; and polyacrylamidomethyl benzylidene camphor, for example marketed under the brand name "Mexoryl SW" by Noveal.

[0138] Suitable benzophenone compounds include benzophenone-1 (2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul 400" by BASF; benzophenone-2 (tetrahydroxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul D50" by BASF; benzophenone-3 (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone) or oxybenzone, such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul M40" by BASF; the benzophenone-4 (hydroxymethoxybenzophonene sulfonic acid), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul MS40" by BASF; benzophenone-5 (sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate); benzophenone-6 (dihydroxy dimethoxybenzophenone), such as that marketed under the brand name "Helisorb 11" by Norquay; benzophenone-8, such as that marketed under the brand name "Spectra-Sorb UV-24" by American Cyanamid; benzophenone-9 (disodium dihydroxy dimethoxy benzophenonedisulfonate), such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvinul DS-49" by BASF; benzophenone-12; and n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate (such as that marketed under the brand name UVINUL A+ by BASF).

[0139] Examples of triazine compounds include 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (BEMT)), diethylhexyl butamido triazone, such as that marketed under the brand name "Uvasorb HEB" by Sigma 3V; 2,4,6-tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, such as that marketed under the brand name "TINOSORB S" by BASF and ethylhexyl triazone, such as that marketed under the brand name "UVINUL T150" by BASF.

[0140] Suitable benzotriazole compounds include phenylbenzotriazole derivatives: 2-(2H-benzotriazole-2-yl)-6-dodecyl-4-methylpheno, branched and linear, and those described in USP 5240975.

[0141] Suitable benzalmalonate compounds include dineopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate and polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functional groups, such as polysilicone-15, such as that marketed under the brand name "Parsol SLX" by Hoffmann-La Roche.

[0142] Examples of benzimidazole compounds include, in particular, phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, such as that marketed in particular under the brand name "Eusolex 232" by Merck, and phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate disodium, such as that marketed under the brand name "Neo Heliopan AP" by Symrise.

[0143] Suitable imidazoline compounds include ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene propionate dioxoimidazoline.

[0144] Examples of bis-benzoazolyl compounds include the compounds described in EP-669 323 and US patent no. 2 463 264.

[0145] Suitable para-aminobenzoic acid compounds include PABA (p-aminobenzoic acid), ethyl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, pentyl dimethyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, such as that marketed under the brand name “Escol 507” by ISP, glyceryl PABA, and PEG-25 PABA, such as that marketed under the brand name “Uvinul P25” by BASF.

[0146] Suitable methylene bis-(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds include 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-methylphenol] such as that marketed under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 200" by Fairmount Chemical, 2,2'-methylenebis[6-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl)-4-(1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl)phenol] such as that marketed in micronized aqueous dispersion form under the brand name "Tinosorb M" by BASF or under the brand name "Mixxim BB / 100" by Fairmount Chemical, and derivatives as described in US patents Nos. 5,237,071 and 5,166,355, GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26184 and EP-893,119, and drometrizole trisiloxane, such as that marketed under the brand name "Silatrizole" by Rhodia Chimie or "Mexoryl XL" by L'Oréal.

[0147] Examples of benzoxazole compounds include 2,4-bis[5-l(dimethylpropyl)benzoxazol-2-yl-(4-phenyl)imino]-6-(2-ethylhexyl)imino-l,3,5-triazine, such as that marketed under the brand name Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V.

[0148] Suitable examples of protective polymers and protective silicones include the silicones described in WO 93 / 04665.

[0149] Suitable α-alkylstyrene derived dimers include the dimers described in DE-19855649.

[0150] Examples of 4,4-diarylbutadiene compounds include l,l-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene.

[0151] Where appropriate, at least one additional organic UV filter is preferably present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount of at least about 1% by weight, preferably at least about 5% by weight, preferably at least about 10% by weight, preferably at least about 12.5% ​​by weight, and preferably at least about 15% by weight, the upper end of the range of additional UV filter present preferably being about 40% by weight (e.g., about 1 to 40%, about 10 to 40%, about 12.5 to 40%, etc.), preferably about 30% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 30%, about 10 to 30%, about 15 to 30%, etc.), preferably about 25% by weight (e.g., about 5 to 25%, about 10 to 25%, about 15 to 25%, etc.). %, etc.), and preferably about 20% by weight (e.g. about 1 to 20%, about 5 to 20%, about 10 to 20%, etc.), all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

[0152] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure comprise 10% or less by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of these optional additional organic UV filters, preferably less than 7.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. weight in relation to the total weight of the composition, and preferably less than 1% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0153] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure further comprise at least one additional organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6 (4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, octocrylene and mixtures thereof.In such embodiments, the UV-absorbing system may "consist of" or "consist essentially of" (1) at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material and (2) at least one organic UV filter selected from the group consisting of 4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, octocrylene and mixtures thereof.

[0154] According to other preferred embodiments, however, the compositions of this disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" as defined above of one or more additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphen ol Methoxyphenyl Triazine), avobenzone (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), octisalate (ethylhexyl salicylate), ensulizole (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid), homosalate, and octocrylene, preferably two or more, preferably three or more, preferably four or more, or preferably all five of these sunscreen agents.

[0155] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid", as defined above, of one or more additional organic UV filters selected from the group consisting of OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3), OCTINOXATE (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate), ETHYLHEXYL TRIAZONE, DROMETRIZOLE TRISILOXANE, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYL PHENOL, DIETHYLAMINO HYDROXYBENZOYL HEXYL BENZOATE, DIETHYLHEXYL BUTAMIDO TRIAZONE, DTSOAMYL P-METHOXYCINNAMATE, POLYSILICONE-15, 4-METHYLBENZYLIDENE CAMPHOR, PHENYL DIBENZIMIDAZOLE DISODIUM TETRASULFONATE, METHOXYPROPYLAMINO CYCLOHEXENYLIDENE ETHOXYETHYLCYANOACETATE, 4-bis-[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl) Triazine), preferably two or more, preferably three or more, preferably four or more, etc., and preferably "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" of all these sunscreen agents.

[0156] According to preferred embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure are "free", "substantially free" or "devoid" of OXYBENZONE (benzophenone-3) and / or OCTINOXATE (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate) and / or 4-bis-{[4-(2-ethylhexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl]-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazine (INCI name: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine).

[0157] According to preferred embodiments, the UV-absorbing system of the compositions of this disclosure may "consist of" or "consist essentially of" at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material.

[0158] According to preferred embodiments, this disclosure envisages omitting one or more of the specific UV filters mentioned above from the UV-absorbing system of the compositions of this disclosure. By way of example, octocrylene and / or octinoxate may be omitted from the compositions. A similar omission of one or more of the specific UV filters mentioned is thus envisaged. Antioxidants

[0159] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, the compositions of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one antioxidant. Examples of such antioxidants include, but are not limited to, vitamins, ascorbic acid, polyphenols, flavonoids, stilbenoids, and their derivatives. The antioxidants may be dissolved in the oil or aqueous phases.

[0160] Appropriate specific examples of antioxidants include, but are not limited to, flavones, flavonoids, flavans, flavanones, flavonols, stilbenoids, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopheryl acetate, (octyl) methoxycrylene (SolaStay Sl), diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate (DEHN) (Corapan TQ), phenylethyl benzoate, butyloctyl salicylate (HallBrite BHB), diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (Oxynex ST), polycrylene (polyester-8), hexadecyl benzoate, butyloctyl benzoate, and mixtures thereof. Aqueous phase

[0161] The compositions of this disclosure may also optionally contain water. When the compositions of this disclosure contain water, they are preferably in the form of an emulsion. Preferably, when the compositions of this disclosure contain water, they are in the form of an emulsion containing an external aqueous phase such as an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion. water (W / O / O), or an emulsion containing an external oily phase such as a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) emulsion. Preferably, when in emulsion form, the oily phase may contain silicone oils (e.g., Si / O or W / Si emulsion) or hydrocarbon oils. Where applicable, water is preferably present in an amount of approximately 10% to approximately 80% by weight, preferably approximately 20% to approximately 70% by weight, preferably approximately 35% to approximately 65% ​​by weight, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges, all weights being based on the total weight of the composition.

[0162] According to preferred embodiments, however, the compositions of this disclosure are water-free, substantially water-free, or water-free as defined herein. Preferably, the compositions of this disclosure are anhydrous.

[0163] If present in compositions of this disclosure, the aqueous phase may include at least one water-soluble organic solvent that is liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. For example, such at least one water-soluble organic solvent may include:

[0164] C1-C5 monoalcohols having a C1-C5 alkane chain and a single hydroxyl (OH) function. Suitable C1-C5 monoalcohols include methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, and mixtures thereof;

[0165] polyols (compounds having 2 or more hydroxyl groups) having, for example, from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as, for example, glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, simple sugars and water-soluble polyalkylene glycols;

[0166] and their mixtures.

[0167] According to preferred embodiments, at least one water-soluble organic solvent is selected from the group consisting of ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanediol and propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0168] Where appropriate, the water-soluble organic solvent(s) is / are preferably present in the compositions of this disclosure in an amount ranging from about 0.5 to about 40% by weight, preferably from about 3 to about 30% by weight, and preferably from about 5% to about 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges such as, for example, 2% to 15%, 2% to 25%, 7.5% to 30%, etc. Optional additional ingredients

[0169] The compositions of this disclosure may also optionally include at least one additional additive or auxiliary commonly used in cosmetic compositions and known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of being incorporated into such compositions. Such additives or auxiliaries may be selected from film-forming agents, coloring agents (e.g., dyes and pigments), waxes, thixotropic agents (e.g., clays), fillers, preservatives, perfumes, surfactants, antioxidants, free radical scavengers, spreading agents, dispersing agents, antifoaming agents, neutralizing agents, stabilizing agents, active ingredients selected from essential oils, moisturizing agents, vitamins, active ingredients, proteins, ceramides, plant extracts, fibers and the like, wetting agents and mixtures thereof. Nevertheless, preferably, the compositions of this disclosure are "free," "substantially free," or "devoid" of such additives.

[0170] A person skilled in the art shall ensure that the optional additional additives are chosen and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition as disclosed are not, or are not substantially, compromised by the envisaged addition.

[0171] It goes without saying that the composition of the disclosure must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, that is, it must contain a physiologically acceptable, non-toxic carrier. The composition may be in any pharmaceutical form normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields that is suitable for topical administration as mentioned above.

[0172] These auxiliary additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of 0% to 99% (such as 0.01% to 90%) relative to the total weight of the composition and furthermore such as 0.1% to 50% by weight (where appropriate), including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0173] In accordance with this disclosure, the compositions of this disclosure may be a standalone product (for use alone), or they may be a product for use in conjunction with another composition, for example, a base coat composition (makeup base), a color coat composition, or a top coat composition (overcoat). It should be understood that when compositions of this disclosure are applied to keratinous materials in the form of any such composition, such application may comprise one or more coats of the product.Thus, for example, the application of at least one color layer composition may include one or more color layers; the application of at least one topcoat composition may include one or more topcoats; the application of at least one basecoat composition may include one or more basecoats. Preferably, such basecoat, color layer, and topcoat compositions contain three. layers of compositions or less, preferably two layers of compositions or less, and preferably only one layer of compositions.

[0174] During the application of the compositions of this disclosure, the base coat (if any) is typically applied directly to the keratinous material, the color coat is typically applied either directly to the keratinous material (if no base coat is present), or to a previously applied base coat, and the top coat (if any) is typically applied to a color coat.

[0175] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, methods for treating, protecting, improving the appearance, caring for and / or making up a keratinous material by applying compositions of this disclosure to the keratinous material in a sufficient quantity to treat the keratinous material, improve its appearance, care for it and / or make it up, are proposed.

[0176] Preferably, the "makeup" of the keratinous material includes the application of a composition comprising at least one coloring agent to the keratinous material in sufficient quantity to provide color and / or an optical effect to the keratinous material.

[0177] Preferably, the "protection" of the keratinous material includes the application of a composition of this disclosure to protect the keratinous material from damage resulting from exposure to UV rays.

[0178] According to the preceding embodiments, the compositions of this disclosure are applied topically to the keratinous material in a sufficient quantity to treat, improve the appearance of, care for, and / or conceal the keratinous material. The compositions can be applied to the desired area as needed, preferably once or twice daily, more preferably once daily, and then preferably allowed to dry before being subjected to contact such as with clothing or other objects (e.g., clothing or a top coat). Preferably, the composition is allowed to dry for approximately 1 minute or less, more preferably for approximately 45 seconds or less.

[0179] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, methods for manufacturing non-greasy and / or non-bleaching compositions comprising at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material by combining at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material, at least one fast-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient, and at least one slow-spreading emollient in the compositions during the formation of the compositions to produce non-greasy and / or non-bleaching compositions, are proposed.

[0180] According to preferred embodiments of this disclosure, methods for improving the sensory properties when applying a product to the skin compositions comprising at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material, wherein the processes include the addition of at least one fast-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient and at least one slow-spreading emollient to a composition comprising at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material during the formation of the composition in sufficient quantities to enhance the sensory properties of the composition upon application to the skin, are proposed.

[0181] According to all embodiments of this disclosure, it is preferable that more fast-spreading emollient(s) be added to the compositions of this disclosure during preparation than (1) medium-spreading emollient(s) and / or (2) slow-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0182] Preferably, more medium-spreading emollient(s) is / are added to the compositions of this disclosure during preparation than slow-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] Preferably, at least twice as much fast-spreading emollient(s) is / are added to the compositions of this disclosure during preparation as medium-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 2.3 times more, preferably at least 2.5 times more, and preferably at least 3 times more.

[0184] Preferably, at least twice as much medium-spreading emollient(s) is / are added to the compositions of this disclosure during preparation as slow-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 2.3 times more, preferably at least 2.5 times more, and preferably at least 3 times more.

[0185] Preferably, at least three times more rapid-spreading emollient(s) is / are added to the compositions of this disclosure during preparation than medium-spreading emollient(s) by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 3.5 times more, preferably at least 4 times more, and preferably at least 5 times more.

[0186] Preferably, the weight ratio of (1) the combined amount of at least one fast-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient and at least one slow-spreading emollient to (2) the at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material added to the compositions of this disclosure during preparation is about 5:1 to about 1:5, preferably about 3:1 to about 1:3, preferably about 2:1 to about 1:2, and preferably about 1.5:1 to about 1:1.5, including all intermediate ranges and sub-ranges.

[0187] This disclosure also considers kits and / or pre-packaged materials suitable for consumer use containing one or more composition(s) as described herein, alone or in combination with makeup products such as primers, top coats, makeup removers, etc. The packaging and application device for any subject of this disclosure may be selected and manufactured by persons skilled in the art based on their general knowledge and adapted according to the nature of the composition to be packaged. Indeed, the type of device to be used may be particularly related to the consistency of the composition, especially its viscosity; it may also depend on the nature of the constituents present in the composition, for example, the presence of volatile compounds.

[0188] Unless otherwise stated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, etc., used in the patent memorandum and claims are to be understood as modified in all cases by the term "approximately." Accordingly, unless otherwise stated, the numerical parameters presented in the following patent memorandum and the attached claims are approximations that may vary depending on the desired properties that are sought to be obtained through this disclosure.

[0189] Although the numerical ranges and parameters defining the general scope of disclosure are approximations, the numerical values ​​shown in the specific examples are reported as accurately as possible. However, every numerical value inherently contains some errors that necessarily result from the standard deviation found in its respective measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate disclosure without, however, limiting its scope. Percentages are provided on a weighted basis. Example 1 - Sample Formulations

[0190] [Tables 2] INCI Name General Ranges (% by weight) Preferred Ranges (% by weight) Oils including specified fast, medium, and slow spreading emollients Total Oil = 5 to 30% Including: Cetearyl (S) Isononanoate (Cetearyl isononanoate (S)) (1 to 5%) Total Oil = 10 to 25% Including: Cetearyl (S) Isononanoate (Cetearyl isononanoate (S)) (2 to 4%) Dicaprylyl carbonate (M) (3 to 8%) Isohexadecane (F) (4 to 12%) C15-C19 alkanes (F) (1 to 5%) Dicaprylyl carbonate (M) (4 to 6%) Isohexadecane (F) (5 to 10%) C15-C19 alkanes (F) (1 to 5%) Surfactants 0.5 to 7.5% 1 to 5% Thickeners / film-forming agents 0.5 to 5% 1 to 4% Zinc oxide (alumina, p-acid coating) Zinc Oxide (alumina, polyhydroxystearic acid coating) 15 to 40% 10 to 20% Titanium Dioxide 1 to 10% 1 to 5% Filler 0.5 to 10% 1 to 5% Polyol 0 to 20% 1 to 10% Other cosmetic ingredients (preservatives, chelators, antioxidants, organic sunscreens) 0 to 25% 5 to 20% Water QS QS Example 2# - Tests

[0191] Mixtures containing 15 wt% zinc oxide, treated with triethoxycaprylylsilane, and 2 wt% polyhydroxystearic acid dispersed in various emollients were prepared as identified in Table 3 below. The mixtures were prepared by mixing under high shear at high temperature (above 50 degrees Celsius) until the zinc oxide material was well dispersed. Transmission values ​​at 650 nm were determined. Such transmission values ​​correspond to the relative whitening effect of the material of zinc oxide in the mixtures, higher values ​​indicating a less white effect.

[0192] [Tables3] Emollient Spreading Transmission at 650 nm Isohexadecane Fast 55.1 C15-C19 Alkane Fast 39.7 Dicaprylyl Ether Fast 45.2 Dicaprylyl Carbonate Medium 42.3 Diisopropyl Sebacate Medium 45.6 Isopropyl Palmitate Medium 39.6 C12-C15 Alkyl Benzoate Medium 46.7 Cetearyl Isononanoate Slow 51.0 Emollient System (C15-C19 Alkane + Dicaprylyl Carbonate + Cetearyl Isononanoate) Mixture of fast, medium, and slow spreading emollients 46.4

[0193] The emollient system of this disclosure in Table 1 was prepared using a mixture of a C15-C19 alkane, dicaprylyl carbonate, and cetearyl isononanoate in a relative weight ratio of 7:5:2.5. It was expected that the resulting 650 nm transmission value for this mixture would result from a linear sum of the relative contributions for each emollient. The emollient system under test was therefore expected to produce a transmission value of 42.5. However, it was unexpectedly determined that there was a synergistic relationship for the combination of a fast-spreading emollient, a medium-spreading emollient, and a slow-spreading emollient that gave a transmission value approximately 4 units higher than the expected 650 nm transmission value. Example 3# - Sunscreen Composition

[0194] [Tables4] Ingredients % by weight: Zinc oxide (and) triethoxycaprylylsilane 15.35%, Titanium dioxide (and) alumina (and) aluminum stearate 2.65%, Polyhydroxystearic acid 2%, Surfactants 3%, C15-C19 alkane (fast-spreading emollient) 7% Dicaprylyl carbonate (medium-spreading emollient) 5% Cetearyl isononanoate (slow-spreading emollient) 2.5% Additional oil-phase ingredients 5.1% Aqueous thickening agents 0.45% Additional ingredients (preservatives, vitamins, pH adjusters, aesthetic modifiers, glycols) 15.4% Water QS In vivo SPF 55 Critical wavelength 372

[0195] The above composition was prepared and demonstrated a pleasant and lubricating application throughout the application of the composition to keratinous skin without feeling heavy or greasy. Furthermore, the composition showed no visibly noticeable whitening effect after application.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising a UV-absorbing system comprising at least one physical ultraviolet (UV) attenuating material, preferably at least one metal oxide, preferably at least one metal oxide selected from titanium, chromium, zinc, tin, alumina, cerium, and / or iron oxides;and an emollient system comprising at least three emollients, wherein at least one emollient is at least a rapid-spreading emollient, the at least one rapid-spreading emollient is selected from the group consisting of C15-C19 alkane, isohexadecane, dicaprylyl ether and mixtures thereof, at least one emollient is at least a medium-spreading emollient, the at least one medium-spreading emollient is selected from the group consisting of dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate and mixtures thereof, and at least one emollient is at least a slow-spreading emollient, and / or the at least one slow-spreading emollient is cetearyl isononanoate.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is present in the composition in an amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 5% to about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one fast-spreading emollient, at least one medium-spreading emollient and at least one slow-spreading emollient are present in the composition in a combined amount of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from about 5% to about 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4.

5. Composition according to claim 1, in the form of an emulsion. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein more fast-spreading emollient(s) is / are present in the composition by weight relative to the total weight of the composition than (1) medium-spreading emollient(s) and / or (2) slow-spreading emollient(s).

6. Composition according to claim 1, wherein more medium-spreading emollient(s) is / are present in the composition by weight relative to the total weight of the composition than slow-spreading emollient(s).

7. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one UV-absorbing system essentially contains at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material.

8. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material is surface treated with a surface treatment agent, preferably the surface treatment agent comprising at least one of amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty acid salts, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithin compounds, metal alkoxides, polyethylene, silicones, proteins, alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides other than at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material, sodium hexametaphosphate, alumina, glycerol, and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to claim 1, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material comprises zinc oxide and / or titanium dioxide, preferably coated with a coating agent, preferably the coating agent comprising at least one of hydrated silica, triethoxysilylethyl polydimethylsiloxyethyl hexyl dimethicone, hydrogen dimethicone, triethoxycaprylylsilane, and mixtures thereof.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein at least one ultraviolet (UV) attenuating physical material has an average primary particle size of 1 nm to 500 nm, preferably 5 nm to 250 nm, preferably 10 nm to 100 nm, preferably 10 nm to 50 nm, preferably 20 nm to 40 nm.