Composition and processing method of keratin fibers using at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid, at least one amino acid and possibly at least one glycine derivative

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid, at least one amino acid and optionally at least one glycine derivative, as well as a process for treating keratin fibers using this composition.

Description

Title of the invention: Composition and process for treating keratin fibers using at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid, at least one amino acid and optionally at least one glycine derivative. Technical field of the invention

[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising at least one monounsaturated fatty acid, at least one polyunsaturated fatty acid, at least one amino acid and optionally at least one glycine derivative, as well as a process for treating keratin fibers using this composition. Context of the invention

[0002] External atmospheric agents such as pollution and inclement weather, as well as mechanical or chemical treatments, or certain routines such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming, straightening, and repeated washing, can damage and weaken hair. Hair can become deformed and damaged and, over time, become dry, rough, brittle, dull, split, and / or limp, or sensitive to humidity, making hair unruly, often frizzy, and / or difficult to style in humid environments, particularly very humid ones.

[0003] In order to remedy this, it is common to use hair compositions designed to condition the hair by providing satisfactory cosmetic properties, including smoothing, shine, softness to the touch, suppleness, lightness, good detangling properties leading to ease of combing, good hair discipline which is thus easier to style and keeps its shape.However, the conditioning effect obtained by these hair care products fades rapidly over time, does not always have a satisfactory residual effect after shampooing, and does not prevent irreversible hair deformation due to fiber elongation, for example during combing or detangling, nor does it repair or prevent hair breakage, and it has little or no effect on controlling the volume of keratin fibers and / or maintaining the hairstyle and / or the manageability of hair in humid or even very humid conditions.

[0004] Thus, there is a real need to develop a hair composition that prevents irreversible hair deformation, particularly in damaged and / or sensitized hair, due to fiber elongation, for example during combing or detangling, and to repair or prevent hair breakage, and to sustainably limit frizz formation and / or increased volume of the hair in a humid environment in order to facilitate the styling of hair in a humid environment, especially damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0005] The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all or part of these objectives can be achieved by the composition according to the present invention. Summary of the invention

[0006] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition comprising: (i) one or more fatty acids A selected from monounsaturated fatty acids, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures; ii) one or more B fatty acids selected from polyunsaturated fatty acids, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; iii) one or more C amino acids chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures: COOH (I) I H — Ç — N(H) P R Formula (I) in which: ■ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; ■ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 with 8 links, preferably 5 links, this ring may optionally be substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; ■ when p = 2, R represents: - a hydrogen atom; or - a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or substituted by at least one group selected from -OH, -NH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or imidazole; and iv) optionally one or more glycine D derivatives selected from the compounds of the following formula (II): " (II) Formula (II) in which Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group and R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group; it being understood that the composition includes: - a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - a total C amino acid content greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and - a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B + amino acids C + glycine derivatives D greater than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0007] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising a) the application to the keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

[0008] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above to prevent irreversible deformation of keratin fibers during combing and / or detangling.

[0009] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above to repair and / or prevent the breakage of keratin fibers.

[0010] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in humid environments. Detailed description of the invention

[0011] For the purposes of the present invention, and unless otherwise indicated:

[0012] ■ By "keratin fibers" we mean fibers of human or animal origin such as such as hair, body hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere, or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibers are preferably human keratin fibers, more preferably hair.

[0013] ■ By "abhed keratin fibers", we mean dry, rough keratin fibers, brittle, split and / or soft.

[0014] ■ By "sensitized keratin fibers", we mean bleached keratin fibers, artificially colored, straightened and / or permed.

[0015] ■ By "fatty acid", we mean a carboxylic acid, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0016] ■ By "unsaturated" is meant a chemical compound or chemical group comprising in its structure one or more ethylenic unsaturations, preferably one or two ethylenic unsaturations.

[0017] ■ By "monounsaturated", we mean a chemical compound or chemical group comprising in its structure a single ethylenic unsaturation.

[0018] ■ By "polyunsaturated", we mean a chemical compound or chemical group comprising at least two ethylenic unsaturations.

[0019] ■ by "alkyl group" is meant a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tetradecyl, n-hexadecyl or eicosyl.

[0020] ■ By "(Cx-Cy) alkyl group" is meant an alkyl group comprising from x to y atoms of carbon.

[0021] ■ by "alkenyl group" is meant a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising one or more ethylenic unsaturations, preferably one or two ethylenic unsaturations, conjugated or not, and from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 26 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, for example ethylenyl, n-propylenyl, iso-propylenyl, butylenyl, n-pentylenyl, n-hexylenyl, n-decylenyl, n-dodecylenyl, tetradecylenyl, hexadecylenyl or eicosylenyl.

[0022] ■ By "(Cx-Cy)alkenyl group" we mean an alkenyl group comprising from x to y carbon atoms.

[0023] ■ by "salt" is meant an addition salt with an organic acid or base or Mineral or internal salt. Addition salts with an acid are chosen from among those with organic or mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid, citric acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, tosylic acid, benzenesulfonic acid, phosphoric acid, or acetic acid. Addition salts with a base are chosen from among those with organic or mineral bases such as alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, ammonia, amines, or alkanolamines.

[0024] ■ by "isomer" means an optical, geometric or tautomeric isomer.

[0025] ■ the "solvates" represent the hydrates as well as the association with alcohols linear or branched in linear or branched Ci-C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol.

[0026] The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.

[0027] The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "made up of ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." should be understood inclusive of bounds, unless otherwise specified. Composition

[0028] According to a first aspect, the present invention relates to a composition as defined above.

[0029] The applicant has found, surprisingly, that the composition according to the present invention makes it possible to prevent irreversible deformation of hair, due to the elongation of the fibers, for example during combing and / or detangling, and to repair and / or prevent breakage of hair, and to limit in a lasting way the formation of frizz and / or the increase in volume of hair in a humid environment in order to facilitate the styling of hair in a humid environment, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair. Fatty acids A

[0030] The composition comprises i) one or more fatty acids A selected from monounsaturated fatty acids, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0031] Preferably, the fatty acid(s) A are chosen from the following compounds of formula (III), their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures: GH Formula (III) in which R represents a monounsaturated (C8-C40)alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably a monounsaturated (Cio-C3o)alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), more preferably a monounsaturated (Ci2-C24)alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH).

[0032] More preferably, the fatty acid(s) A are chosen from the compounds of formula (III) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, formula (III) in which R represents an unsubstituted (C8-C40) monounsaturated alkenyl group, preferably an unsubstituted (C10-C3()) monounsaturated alkenyl group, more preferably an unsubstituted (C[2-C24) monounsaturated alkenyl group.

[0033] Even more preferably, the fatty acid(s) A are chosen from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, vaccenic acid, paullinic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from oleic acid, its salts, its solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0034] Most preferably, fatty acid A is oleic acid.

[0035] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of fatty acids A comprising one or more fatty acids Al selected from oleic acid, its salts, its isomers, its solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures and one or more fatty acids A2 different from fatty acids Al selected from the compounds of formula (III) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, formula (III) in which R represents a (C8-C40) monounsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably a (C10-C30) monounsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), more preferably a (C12-C24) monounsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH).According to this particular embodiment, the total content of fatty acids A1 in the mixture of fatty acids A is preferably greater than 50% by weight, more preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, and better still greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of fatty acids A.

[0036] According to a more particular embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of fatty acids A including oleic acid and one or more compounds selected from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, vaccenic acid, paullinic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof. According to this more particular embodiment, the total oleic acid content in the mixture of fatty acids A is preferably greater than 50% by weight, more preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, and better still greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of fatty acids A.

[0037] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid(s) A are selected from the compounds of formula (III) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, formula (III) in which R represents a (C8-C40) monounsaturated alkenyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups, preferably a (C10-C30) monounsaturated alkenyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups, plus preferably a monounsaturated (Ci2-C24)alkenyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH).

[0038] According to another particular embodiment, the fatty acid(s) A are chosen from the compounds of formula (III) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, formula (III) in which R represents a (C8-C40) monounsaturated alkenyl group substituted by a hydroxyl group (-OH), preferably a (C10-C30) monounsaturated alkenyl group substituted by a hydroxyl group (-OH), more preferably a (C12-C24) monounsaturated alkenyl group substituted by a hydroxyl group (-OH).

[0039] According to a particular embodiment, the fatty acid(s) A are selected from 10-Hydroxy-cis-12-octadecenoic acid, 10-Hydroxy-trans-11-octadecenoic acid, 12-Hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, 13-Hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, ricinoleic acid, isoricinoleic acid, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0040] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of fatty acids A comprising oleic acid and one or more compounds selected from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, vaccenic acid, paullinic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, 10-Hydroxy-cis-12-octadecenoic acid, 10-Hydroxy-trans-11-octadecenoic acid, 12-Hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, 13-Hydroxy-cis-9-octadecenoic acid, ricinoleic acid, isoricinoleic acid, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the total oleic acid content in the fatty acid mixture A is preferably greater than 50% by weight, more preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, and better still greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty acid mixture A.

[0041] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of fatty acids A ranging from 1.5% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 1.75% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0042] More preferably, the composition comprises a total content of fatty acids A selected from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, vaccenic acid, paullinic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures, ranging from 1.5% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 1.75% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0043] Even more preferably, the composition comprises a total oleic acid content ranging from 1.5% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 1.75% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. B fatty acids

[0044] The composition comprises ii) one or more B fatty acids selected from polyunsaturated fatty acids, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0045] Preferably, the B fatty acid(s) are chosen from di-unsaturated fatty acids, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0046] Preferably, the B fatty acid(s) are chosen from the following compounds of formula (IV), their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: Formula (IV) in which R' represents a (C8-C40) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably a (C10-C30) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), more preferably a (C12-C24) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH).

[0047] More preferably, the fatty acid(s) B are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, formula (IV) in which R' represents an unsubstituted (C8-C40) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, preferably an unsubstituted (Ci0-C30) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, more preferably an unsubstituted (Ci2-C24) polyunsaturated alkenyl group.

[0048] Even more preferably, the B fatty acid(s) are selected from linoleic acid, linolelaidic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, rumenic acid, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from linoleic acid, its salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0049] In the most preferred manner, fatty acid B is linoleic acid.

[0050] According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of B fatty acids comprising one or more B1 fatty acids selected from linoleic acid, its salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, and one or more B2 fatty acids different from the B1 fatty acids selected from the compounds of formula (IV) as defined above, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, formula (IV) in which R' represents a (C8-C40) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups, preferably a (C10-C30) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups, more preferably a (C12-C24) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups.According to this particular embodiment, the total content of B1 fatty acids in the B fatty acid mixture is preferably greater than 50% by weight, more preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, and better still greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the B fatty acid mixture.

[0051] According to a more particular embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of B fatty acids including linoleic acid and one or more compounds selected from linoleaidic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, rumenic acid, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof. According to this more particular embodiment, the total linoleic acid content is preferably greater than 50% by weight, more preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, and better still greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the B fatty acid mixture.

[0052] According to a particular embodiment, the B fatty acid(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (IV) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, formula (IV) in which R' represents a (C8-C40) polyunsaturated alkenyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably a (C10-C30) polyunsaturated alkenyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), more preferably a (C12-C24) polyunsaturated alkenyl group substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH).

[0053] According to another particular embodiment, the fatty acid(s) B are selected from the compounds of formula (IV) as defined above, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures, formula (IV) in which R' represents a (C8-C40) polyunsaturated alkenyl group substituted by a group hydroxyl (-OH), preferably a polyunsaturated (Cio-C3o)alkenyl group substituted by a hydroxyl (-OH) group, more preferably a polyunsaturated (Ci2-C24)alkenyl group substituted by a hydroxyl (-OH) group.

[0054] According to a particular embodiment, the B fatty acid(s) are selected from densipolic acid, auricolic acid, dimorphecolic acid, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures.

[0055] According to another particular embodiment, the composition comprises a mixture of B fatty acids comprising linoleic acid and one or more compounds selected from linolelaidic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, rumenic acid, densipolic acid, auricolic acid, dimorphecolic acid, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof. According to this other particular embodiment, the total linoleic acid content is preferably greater than 50% by weight, more preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, and better still greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the B fatty acid mixture.

[0056] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of B fatty acids ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0057] More preferably, the composition comprises a total content of B fatty acids selected from linoleic acid, linolelaidic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, rumenic acid, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0058] Even more preferably, the composition comprises a total linoleic acid content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.2% to 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.5% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0059] Preferably, the composition comprises oleic acid as fatty acid A and linoleic acid as fatty acid B.

[0060] The composition comprises a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight, preferably ranging from 2.5% to 15% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0061] Preferably, the mass ratio of total quantity of fatty acids A / total quantity of fatty acids B in the composition is between 4 and 10.

[0062] More preferably, the mass ratio of the total quantity of fatty acids A selected from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, vaccenic acid, paullinic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof / total quantity of fatty acids B selected from linoleic acid, linolelaidic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, rumenic acid, their salts, isomers, and mixtures thereof solvated such as hydrates, and their mixtures in the composition is between 4 and 10.

[0063] Even more preferably, the mass ratio of total quantity of oleic acid / total quantity of linoleic acid in the composition is between 4 and 10. Amino acids C

[0064] The composition comprises iii) one or more C amino acids selected from the following compounds of formula (I), their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: COOH (I) Formula (I) in which: ■ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; ■ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 with 8 links, preferably 5 links, this ring may optionally be substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; ■ when p = 2, R represents: - a hydrogen atom; or - a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or substituted by at least one group selected from -OH, -NH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or imidazole.

[0065] The compounds of formula (I) may be in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, D or DL, preferably of configuration L.

[0066] By way of examples according to the present invention of compounds of formula (I) in the form of an optical isomer of configuration L, L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine, L-lysine and L-histidine may be cited.

[0067] Preferably, the amino acid(s) C are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably from arginine, its salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof.

[0068] Preferably, the amino acid C is arginine, preferably L-arginine.

[0069] According to a particular embodiment, the amino acid(s) C are chosen from mixtures comprising one or more amino acids selected from arginine, its salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof and one or more amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, lysine, histidine, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from lysine, histidine, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof. According to this particular embodiment, the total content of amino acids selected from arginine, its salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof is preferably greater than 50% by weight, more preferably greater than 60% by weight, even more preferably greater than 70% by weight, and better still greater than 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of C amino acids.

[0070] The composition comprises a total C amino acid content greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 2.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0071] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of C amino acids selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof ranging from 2.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0072] More preferably, the composition comprises a total content of C amino acids selected from arginine, its salts, its isomers, its solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof ranging from 2.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0073] Even more preferably, the composition comprises a total L-arginine content ranging from 2.5% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

[0074] Preferably, the composition comprises oleic acid as fatty acid A, linoleic acid as fatty acid B and L-arginine as amino acid C. Glycine D derivatives

[0075] The composition may further comprise one or more glycine D derivatives selected from the following compounds of formula (II): Formula (II) in which Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group and R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group.

[0076] Preferably, the composition further comprises one or more glycine derivatives selected from compounds of formula (II) as defined above.

[0077] Preferably, Rh R2 and R3 are identical; preferably, Rh R2 and R3 represent a methyl group. When Rb R2 and R3 represent a methyl group, the glycine derivative is betaine.

[0078] When present in the composition, the glycine D derivative(s) are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0079] Preferably, the composition comprises a total betaine content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

[0080] The composition comprises a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B + amino acids C + glycine derivatives D greater than or equal to 6% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0081] Preferably, the composition comprises a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B + amino acids C + betaine greater than or equal to 6% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0082] More preferably, the composition comprises a total content of oleic acid + linoleic acid + arginine + betaine greater than or equal to 6% by weight, preferably from 6% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 6% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other ingredients in the composition: Fats other than fatty acids A and B

[0083] The composition may further comprise one or more fats other than fatty acids A and B. Preferably, the composition further comprises one or more fats other than fatty acids A and B.

[0084] By "fats," we mean an organic compound insoluble in water at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. Furthermore, fats are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), petrolatum, or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

[0085] The fats usable in the present invention are non-siliconized (do not contain Si-O bonds) and are neither (poly)oxyalkylated nor (poly)glycerolated.

[0086] Fats can be liquid fats (or oils) and / or solid fats. "Liquid fat" means a fat having a melting point of 25°C or lower at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa). "Solid fat" means a fat having a melting point above 25°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0087] For the purposes of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by TA Instruments. In the present application, all melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013 x 10⁵ Pa).

[0088] Preferably, the fat(s) other than fatty acids A and B present in the composition are solid.

[0089] Preferably, the fat or fats other than fatty acids A and B are chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Fatty alcohols solids

[0090] By "fatty alcohol" is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylated, nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and comprise from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.

[0091] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R designating a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising 8 to 40, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better 12 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0092] The solid fatty alcohols that can be used are preferably chosen from saturated monoalcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

[0093] The solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen from, alone or in mixture, myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); ceryl alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

[0094] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

[0095] Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetylstearyl alcohol.

[0096] Even more preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is cetostearyl alcohol. Solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols

[0097] The solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and / or C9-C26 fatty alcohol, more preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

[0098] Preferably, the solid fatty acid esters are esters of saturated linear or branched carboxylic acids comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of saturated linear or branched monoalcohols comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids may optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

[0099] Esters of di- or tricarboxylic acids in C4-C22 and of alcohols in C1-C22 and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols in C2-C26 can also be used.

[0100] Examples include octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyle stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyle myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, din-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, maleate dioctyl, octyl palmitate, myristyle palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0101] Preferably, the solid fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters are selected from solid fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters, and more preferably from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyle, cetyl, stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyle myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyle, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and mixtures thereof.

[0102] Preferably, the solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols are selected from myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0103] Preferably, the fatty substance(s) are chosen from cetostearyl alcohol, myristyle stearate, myristyle palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

[0104] When present, the fat(s) other than fatty acids A and B are present in the composition preferably in a total content ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, most preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and better from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0105] When present, the fat(s) selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof, are preferably present in the composition at a total content of 0.1% to 25% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, most preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, and better still from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Cationic surfactants

[0106] The composition may further comprise one or more cationic surfactants. Preferably, the composition comprises one or more cationic surfactants.

[0107] A "cationic surfactant" is defined as a surfactant that is positively charged when contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may carry one or more permanent positive charges or contain one or more cationizable functional groups within the composition according to the invention.

[0108] Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts.

[0109] Quaternary ammonium salts include, in particular:

[0110] ■ quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la): in which: The R8 to Ru groups, whether identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the R8 to Ru groups comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, and halogens; and X is an anion specifically chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.

[0111] The aliphatic groups R8 to Ru can be selected from the following Ci-C30 alkyl groups, Ci-C30 alkoxy groups, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene groups, Ci-C30 alkylamide groups, alkyl(Ci2-C22)amidoalkyl(C2-C6) alkyl(Ci2-C22)acetate groups and Ci-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups.

[0112] In particular, halides, especially chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium may be cited, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably among behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, and mixtures thereof.

[0113] We can also mention halides, and in particular chlorides, of palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or of stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristyl acetate)-ammonium; in particular the product marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

[0114] ■ Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline of formula (lia): xÀx CO— Rs in which: Rn represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from fatty acids in tallow, Rb represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC4 alkyl group, or an alkenyl or alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms; Ru represents a CrC4 alkyl group. Ris represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in CrC4, X is an anion, notably chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates or alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates.

[0115] Preferably, Rn and Rn denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ri4 denotes a methyl group, and Ri5 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is, for example, marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W75 or W90 by the company Evonik.

[0116] ■ quaternary di- or triammonium salts of formula (Ilia): R,? Ra | ni fa) | in which: - Ri6 designates an alkyl group comprising 16 to 30 carbon atoms, possibly hydroxylated and / or possibly interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, - Rn designates hydrogen, an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a group -(CH2)3-N+(Ri6a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, identical or different, designating hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, - Ris, R19, R20 and R2i, identical or different, designate hydrogen or an alkyl group with 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and - X is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfates, alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonates and alkyl(Ci-C4)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.

[0117] Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P (Quaternium 89) and Finquat CT (Quaternium 75) offered by the company FINETEX.

[0118] ■ quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions of The following formula (IVa): Q * —C—[-CHC HrUQH);:r4"“^ ---;0—x Wàl ' • <!-- I ■              ■           ” -<br-->r2î in which: - R22 is chosen from among the alkyl groups in C1-C6 and the hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups in C1-C6, - R23 is chosen from the R26-C(=O)- group; the R27 hydrocarbon groups in Ci-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R25 is chosen from the R28-C(=O)- group; the R29 hydrocarbon groups in the form Ci-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; and the hydrogen atom, - R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C2i hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, - r, s and t, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, - rl and tl, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1, - y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, - x and z, whether identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, - X is an anion, given that r2 + rl = 2r and tl +12 = 2t, and that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, provided that when x = 0 then R23 designates R27 and when z = 0 then R25 designates R29.

[0119] The R22 alkyl groups may be linear or branched, preferably linear. Preferably, R22 designates a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

[0120] Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

[0121] When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can comprise from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0122] When R25 is a hydrocarbon group R29, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

[0123] Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from among the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C2i hydrocarbon groups, and more particularly from the linear or branched Cn-C2i alkyl and alkenyl groups.

[0124] Preferably, x and z, whether identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.

[0125] Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

[0126] Preferably, r, s and t, whether identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

[0127] The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably a chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfate, an alkyl(Ci-C4)sulfonate or an alkyl(Ci-C4)arylsulfonate, a methanesulfonate, a phosphate, a nitrate, a tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as an acetate or a lactate, or any other ammonium-compatible anion with an ester function. The anion X- is more particularly a chloride, a methylsulfate, or an ethylsulfate.

[0128] More preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) are chosen from quaternary ammonium salts of formula (la), preferably from halides, in particular chlorides, of tetraalkylammonium such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, and mixtures thereof.

[0129] Even more preferably, the cationic surfactant is behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

[0130] When present, the cationic surfactant(s) are present in the composition preferably in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, most preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0131] When present, the cationic surfactant(s) chosen from quaternary ammonium salts are present in the composition preferably in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, most preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0132] When present, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride is present in the composition preferably in a total content of 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 9% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, most preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Amino silicones

[0133] The composition may further comprise one or more amino silicones. Preferably, the composition further comprises one or more amino silicones.

[0134] Aminated silicone means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or one quaternary ammonium group.

[0135] Amino silicones that can be used according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and exhibit preferably a viscosity ranging from 5*106 to 2.5 m2 / s at 25°C, for example from 1*105 to 1 m² / s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from the non-volatile liquid silicones (25 °C, 1 atm).

[0136] Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds: A) Polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (la): "ch. J x CH., (there) OH HAS ox T HW 's HH, _ y in which x' and y' are integers such that the average molecular mass by weight (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g / mol;

[0137] B) Amino silicones conforming to formula (lia): R'aG3 a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2b)mO-SiG3 a-R'a (lia) in which: - G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, a C1-C8 alkyl group, for example methyl, or a C1-C8 alkoxy group, for example methoxy; - a, a', identical or different, denote 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero; - b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1; - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to denote a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149, and m being able to denote a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group, possibly quaternized, chosen from the following groups: -NR”-QN(R”)2, -N(R”)2, -N+(R”)3 A, -N+H(R”)2 A, -N+H2(R”) A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)H2 A, -NR”-Q-N+(R”)2H A, and -NR”-Q-N+(R”)3 A, in which R”, identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example, a CrC2O alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula CrH2r, linear or branched, r being an integer from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

[0138] Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (lia) may be selected from:

[0139] (i) "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" silicones conforming to formula (III): If — CH. i " O — S-- s CH. CH j 0—S-- HH (CH.), ■ ; . .. æ (æ) in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better from 50 to 150; n can represent a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can represent a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

[0140] (ii) silicones of the following formula (IV): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Rb R2, R3, identical or different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in Cr C4, at least one of the radicals Ri to R3 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0141] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0142] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

[0143] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g / mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g / mol.

[0144] (iii) silicones of the following formula (V): in which: - p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p denoting a number from 0 to 999, and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239, and q denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5; and - Ri, R2, different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C1-C4, at least one of the radicals Ri or R2 designating an alkoxy radical.

[0145] Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

[0146] The hydroxy / alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

[0147] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably from 2000 to 200000 g / mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g / mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g / mol.

[0148] Commercial products containing structural (IV) or (V) silicones may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones with a structure different from the (IV) or (V) formulations. A product containing structural (IV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (XIV) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

[0149] When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use as an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants may be of any type, but preferably cationic and / or nonionic. The average number size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, particularly as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used with an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 60 nm (inclusive), and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm. nm (including terminals). Thus, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER can be used.

[0150] (iv) silicones of the following formula (VI): L (VI) in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n denoting a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

[0151] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amine-based silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION.

[0152] (v) silicones of the following formula (VII): in which: - m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; and - A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

[0153] The average molecular weight (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 g / mol and more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000 g / mol. A silicone meeting this specification is, for example, DOW CORNING's DC2-8566 Amino Fluid.

[0154] C) Amino silicones conforming to formula (VIII): in which: - R5 represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in CrCi8, or alkenyl in C2-Ci8, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in CrCi8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - Q is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or a salt of organic acid, in particular acetate; - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, specifically from 2 to 8; And - s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

[0155] D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX) (IX) in which: - R7, identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8 or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl; - R6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular an alkylene radical in Ci-Ci8 or a divalent alkyleneoxy radical in Ci-Ci8, for example in CrC8 linked to Si by a SiC bond; - R8, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular an alkyl radical in Ci-Ci8, an alkenyl radical in C2-Ci8, an -R6-NHCOR7 radical; - X is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or a salt of an organic acid, in particular acetate; and - r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100. These silicones are described for example in application EP-A-0530974; in particular, the silicone with INCI name QUATERNIUM 80 can be mentioned.

[0156] Silicones falling within this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names AB IL QU AT 3270, AB IL QU AT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

[0157] E) Amino silicones of formula (X): (X) in which: - Ri, R2, Ri and R4, whether identical or different, denote an alkyl radical in C1-C4 or a phenyl group, - R5 designates an alkyl radical in CrC4 or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq / g;

[0158] F) multiblock polyoxyalkylened amine silicones, of type (AB)n, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylened block comprising at least one amine group.

[0159] Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas: [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R”)-R'-O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-R'-N(H)-R-] or [-(SiMe2O)xSiMe2-RN(R' ' )-R' -O(C2H4O)a(C3H6O)b-] in which: - a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably from 5 to 200, more particularly from 10 to 100; - b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30; - x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more specifically from 10 to 5000; - R' ' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl; - R, identical or different, represent a linear or branched C2-Ci2 hydrocarbon divalent radical, possibly containing one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R denote a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; and - R', identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical in C2-Ci2, linear or branched, possibly comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH2CH2CH2OCH2CH(OH)CH2- radical; preferably R' denote -CH(CH3)-CH2-,

[0160] The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

[0161] The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq / g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

[0162] The average molecular mass by weight (Mw) of silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g / mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g / mol. Examples include silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

[0163] G) Amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII): CH., | I ÇHL r—to—b—to.........| sj ■■■■■■■■— CHj [ 0¾ | | 4 I CKS I NH 1 5 s NHS (XI) in which: - R, R' and R”, whether identical or different, denote an alkyl group in C1-C4 or a hydroxyl group, - A denotes a C3 alkylene radical; and - m and n are numbers such that the average molecular mass by weight of the compound is between 5000 and 500000. (xn) in which: - x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably y ranges from 1 to 100; - Ri and R2, identical or different, preferably identical, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; and - A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

[0164] Preferably, A comprises from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can mention in particular the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2- and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-.

[0165] Preferably, Ri and R2 are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; examples include dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; and preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0166] Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), there is: - x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000; - ranging from 1 to 100; - A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH2CH2CH2 and -CH2CH(CH3)CH2-; and - Ri and R2 being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen especially from the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, Ri and R2, identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

[0167] A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. An example is the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

[0168] H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at one end of the chain or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI): —Si—i—O - Si o — S io & —: * ' Ô O * “If — “If — (XVI)

[0169] In formula (XIV), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 1000 and 55000. Examples of formula (XIV) amino silicones include products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by Gelest and KF-8015 by Shin Etsu.

[0170] In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 3000.

[0171] As an example of formula (XV) amine silicones, we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

[0172] In formula (XVI), the values ​​of n and m are such that the average molecular mass by weight of the amino silicon is between 500 and 50000.

[0173] Examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI) include aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by Dow Corning.

[0174] The composition according to the invention may also comprise, as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below: CH3 fn | CH3 .........] R-Ç—à------------------O-----------------fS ï । n A-h CH, t CH, k IAI ~~ । FV I | | OH | IAI (xvm) ] \ ] HO—' '—OH i 5—- _________ in which: - n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5; - R' is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms; - R' ' is a linear or branched alkylene divalent radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; and -R”', identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched alkyl radicals, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; said radicals may optionally be substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups OH.

[0175] Preferably, R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)- radical.

[0176] Preferably, R” is a linear alkylene divalent radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a -CH2-CH2- radical.

[0177] Preferably, the R'', identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; in particular, dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals may be mentioned; preferably the R'', identical or different, are chosen from among the saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14, Cl5, alone or in mixture, and preferably represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15. Preferably, the R'' are identical.

[0178] The composition may include one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which: - n is a number between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 5; - R”', identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 12 to 18 carbon atoms; - R' is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms, - R' ' is a linear alkylene divalent radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

[0179] Even better, the composition may include one or more formula silicones (XVIII) in which: - n is a number between 50 and 80; - m is a number between 1 and 5; - R”', identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 13 to 15 carbon atoms; - R' is a radical -(CH2)3-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or -CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and - R” is a radical -(CH2)2-.

[0180] A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). One example is the silicone marketed by DOW under the name "DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent".

[0181] Preferably, the amine silicone(s) are chosen from formula silicones (VI).

[0182] When present, the amino silicone(s) are present in the composition preferably in a total content of 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably of 0.5% to 9% by weight, even more preferably of 0.5% to 8% by weight, most preferably of 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0183] When present, the amino silicone(s) chosen from formula silicones (VI) are present in the composition preferably in a total content of 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 9% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5% to 8% by weight, most preferably from 1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other characteristics of the composition

[0184] The composition is a cosmetic composition, i.e. which comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium compatible with human keratin fibers.

[0185] The composition may include a solvent selected from water, ethanol, isopropanol, glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, and mixtures thereof.

[0186] Preferably, the composition comprises a solvent selected from water, C2-C4 alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof.

[0187] More preferably, the composition comprises a solvent selected from water, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0188] Even more preferably, the composition comprises a solvent selected from water, ethanol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

[0189] And better, the composition includes water as a solvent.

[0190] The composition may further include at least one selected cosmetic ingredient among the non-ionic, anionic, amphoteric surfactants, vitamins and pro-vitamins other than vitamin B1 including panthenol, fillers, coloring matter, pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, sequestering agents, film-forming polymers, cationic, anionic or neutral polymers, associative polymers, plasticizing agents, thickening agents, antifoaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, penetration agents, perfumes, preservatives, and mixtures thereof.

[0191] These common cosmetic ingredients may be present in the composition in usual quantities, easily determinable by those skilled in the art, and which may range, for each ingredient, from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Those skilled in the art shall take care to choose the ingredients included in the composition, as well as their quantities, so as not to impair the properties of the composition.

[0192] The composition may be in any of the galenic forms conventionally used for hair application. Without limitation, the composition may be in the form of a lotion, cream, mousse, gel, spray or hairspray.

[0193] The composition can be used in rinsed or non-rinsed application. Preferably, the composition is used in rinsed application.

[0194] The composition may be in the form of a shampoo, a mask, a conditioning composition, a pre-shampoo or a conditioner. The composition may also be in the form of a composition to be added or mixed before application to a shampoo, conditioner, mask or conditioning composition.

[0195] The composition may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol container, in order to ensure application of the composition in spray form (lacquer) or in foam form. In these cases, the composition preferably comprises at least one propellant.

[0196] The pH of the composition is preferably between 3 and 10, more preferably between 3 and 7, even more preferably between 3.5 and 5.5. Preferably, the pH of the composition is equal to 4. The pH can be adjusted using an organic or mineral acid or an organic or mineral base commonly used in cosmetics.

[0197] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises a total content of coloring agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably less than 0.01% by weight, more preferably less than 0.001% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably, the composition is free of coloring agents.

[0198] By "coloring agent" is meant an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.

[0199] The term "oxidation dye" means an oxidation dye precursor selected from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are slightly or colorless compounds which, through a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a colored species.

[0200] By "direct dye" is meant a natural and / or synthetic dye, including in the form of extract(s), other than oxidation dyes. These are colored compounds that diffuse superficially onto the fiber. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic. Keratin fiber processing method

[0201] According to a second aspect, the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers comprising a) the application to the keratin fibers of a composition as defined above.

[0202] The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibers, preferably to wet keratin fibers.

[0203] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0204] The bath ratio of the composition applied to the keratin fibers can range from 0.01 to 10. For example, the bath ratio can be 0.4 or 0.6. By bath ratio, we mean the ratio between the total weight of the composition applied and the total weight of keratin fibers to be treated.

[0205] The process may include at least one additional step successive to step a) chosen from the following steps b) to d): b) a step of applying the composition to the keratin fibers, preferably lasting at least 10 seconds, said application step possibly being carried out under an airtight film such as a foil wrapper or plastic film and / or by using a heating device; c) a rinsing and / or washing step of the keratin fibers; d) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

[0206] Preferably, the process includes the additional steps b), c) and d) as described above and carried out in that order.

[0207] The composition setting step can last from 10 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably from 30 seconds to 30 minutes.

[0208] The washing step can, for example, be carried out using shampoo.

[0209] The temperature of the heating device can range from 45°C to 230°C, preferably from 45°C to 100°C, more preferably from 50°C to 80°C. A hair dryer, a heated helmet, a Climazon, a heated iron or brush can be used as a heating device.

[0210] The drying step (d) can also be a combination of air drying or drying with a heating device at a temperature of 50°C to 80°C such as a hair dryer or a heated helmet, possibly followed by a straightening step, preferably with a hair straightener.

[0211] Steps a) to c) or steps a) to d) may be repeated as many times as necessary, and each cycle of steps a) to c) or a) to d) may be separated from the next by a few minutes to a few days or weeks. Different hair treatments of the invention may be performed between different application cycles, before or after.

[0212] In the case where the process does not include step c) of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers, the composition may, for example, include a solvent mixture such as a water / ethanol mixture comprising at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, and more preferably at least 30% by weight of ethanol. The use of such a mixture makes it possible, in particular, to facilitate the evaporation of the composition. Uses

[0213] According to a third aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above to prevent irreversible deformation of keratin fibers during combing and / or detangling.

[0214] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0215] According to a fourth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above to repair and / or prevent the breakage of keratin fibers.

[0216] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair.

[0217] According to a fifth aspect, the present invention relates to the use of a composition as defined above to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in humid environments.

[0218] Preferably, the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers, in particular damaged and / or sensitized hair. Examples

[0219] The following examples provide a better understanding of the invention but are not intended to be limiting. In the following examples, unless otherwise indicated, all quantities are given as mass percentages relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0220] a. Preparation of formulas

[0221] The following compositions C1 to C29 were prepared from ingredients 1 to 10 listed in the table below, in which the ingredients are given by INCI name. Ingredients

[0222] [Tables 1] Ingredient No. Ingredient Name 1 CETEARYL ALCOHOL (Lanette® 0 marketed by BASF) 2 CETYL ESTERS (SP CRODAMOL marketed by Croda) 3 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (QUATARMIN® AB marketed by Kao) 4 AMODIMETHICONE (and) TRIDECETH-6 (and) CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE (XIAMETER™ MEM-8299 Emulsion marketed by Dow) 5 OLEIC ACID 6 LINOLEIC ACID 7 L-ARGININE 8 BETAINE 9 SODIUM HYDROXIDE OR LACTIC ACID 10 WATER Compositions Cl to C29

[0223] [Tables2] Composition Ingredients 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Cl (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 - - - - Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C2 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 4.4 0.6 - - Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C3 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 4.4 0.6 1 - Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C4 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 4.4 0.6 - 1 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C5 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 4.4 0.6 1 1 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C6 (Invention) 6 1 3 1.2 4.4 0.6 2.5 - Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C7 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 - 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C8 (Invention) 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 2,5 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C9 (Invention) 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 5 5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 CIO (Invention) 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 5 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 Cil (Invention) 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 2,5 1 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C12 (Invention) 6 1 3 1,2 2 0,5 2,5 1 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C13 (Invention) 5 1 2.5 0,2 4 1 5 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C14 (Invention) 5 1 2.5 0,2 2 0,5 5 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C15 (Invention) 5 1 2.5 - 4 1 5 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C16 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 5 - - - Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C17 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 - 5 - - Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C18 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 - - 2,5 - Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C19 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 - - - 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C20 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 - - 5 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C21 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 1 2,5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C22 (Comparatif) 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 0 3 Qsp pH4 Qsp 1 00 C23 6 1 3 1,2 4,4 0,6 0 3,5 Qsp Qsp (Comparative) pH4 100 C24 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 2 0.5 1 1 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C25 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 2 0.5 2 1 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C26 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 1 0.2 5 2.5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C27 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 1.5 0.5 3 1 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C28 (Invention) 6 1 3 1.2 2.5 0.5 3 0 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100 C29 (Comparative) 6 1 3 1.2 2 0.5 2 1.5 Qsp pH4 Qsp 100

[0224] b. Study of breakage and irreversible deformation of hair

[0225] The Cl to C29 compositions were applied according to the application protocol described below and evaluated with regard to their integrity, namely their resistance to breakage and irreversible deformation according to the test protocol described below. Application Protocol

[0226] Strands of damaged hair (type 2, see de La Mettrie R, et al. Shape variability and classification of human hair: A worldwide approach. Human Biology. 2007; 79: 265-281) (alkaline solubility of 42) are soaked in an aqueous solution containing 20% ​​by weight of sodium lauryl ether sulfate (SLES) for 15 seconds, rinsed in two successive water baths, and then very gently squeezed between the fingers. The damp strands are then placed on a flat surface, and compositions C1 to C29 are applied separately with a brush to said strands at a bath ratio of 0.6 (i.e., 0.6 g of composition per 1 g of hair).

[0227] A 5-minute processing time is observed, then the strands are rinsed in two successive water baths, gently squeezed between the fingers, and then left to dry in an oven at 60°C (10 min / g of hair). All steps are repeated twice to obtain the test protocol.

[0228] The test involves pulling on the wet hair to see if the hair breaks, becomes irreversibly deformed, or deforms and then returns to its original shape and length. The test is commonly used by hairdressers to assess the integrity of their clients' hair. The test involves taking a strand of hair and soaking it in water for Hold for 30 seconds, then take and hold three hair fibers between the index finger and thumb of each hand (each hand holds one end of the fibers). The fibers are then gently stretched by moving the fingers and thumbs of each hand apart so that there are 3 centimeters of fiber between them. Then, pull the fibers to stretch them an additional 1 centimeter. A ruler is used to ensure the stretching distances are correct. Hold the fibers for 3 seconds, then gently release the tension. The fibers are placed horizontally on absorbent paper for 5 minutes to dry, then evaluated.

[0229] The test is repeated 5 times for a total of 15 fibers.

[0230] The hair integrity performance is classified according to the following rules: • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is equal to or greater than 10, the hair has very poor integrity. • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is between 6 and 9 inclusive, the hair has poor integrity. • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is between 2 and 5 inclusive, the hair has good integrity. • If the sum of irreversibly broken and deformed fibers is 1 or less, the hair has very good integrity.

[0231] c. Result of integrity measures

[0232] The results of the integrity measurements for each of the Cl to C29 compositions tested are summarized in the table below.

[0233] [Tables3] Composition % oleic acid + linoleic acid % L-arginine % oleic acid + linoleic acid + L-arginine + betaine Number of fibers broken or irreversibly deformed Cl (Placebo) 0 0 0 13 C2 (Comparative) 5 0 5 8 C3 (Comparative) 5 1 6 10 C4 (Comparative) 5 0 6 10 C5 (Comparative) 5 1 7 9 C6 (Invention) 5 2.5 7.5 5 C7 (Comparative) 5 0 7.5 8 C8 (Invention) 5 2.5 10 3 C9 (Invention) 5 5 15 3 IOC (Invention) 5 5 12.5 3 Cilius (Invention) 5 2.5 8.5 4 C12 (Invention) 2.5 2.5 6 5 C13 (Invention) 5 5 12.5 2 C14 (Invention) 2.5 5 10 3 C15 (Invention) 5 5 12.5 3 C16 (Comparative) 5 0 5 8 C17 (Comparative) 5 0 5 11 C18 (Comparative) 0 2.5 2.5 10 C19 (Comparative) 0 0 2.5 13 C20 (Comparative) 0 5 7.5 9 C21 (Comparative) 5 1 8.5 7 C22 5 0 8 8 (Comparative) C23 (Comparative) 5 0 8.5 8 C24 (Comparative) 2.5 1 4.5 10 C25 (Comparative) 2.5 2 5.5 10 C26 (Comparative) 1.2 5 8.7 7 C27 (Comparative) 2 3 6 8 C28 (Invention) 3 3 6 5 C29 (Comparative) 2.5 2 6 8

[0234] The results show that the compositions according to the present invention make it possible to prevent irreversible hair deformation and hair breakage.

[0235] d. Study of the hairstyle's hold in a humid environment

[0236] Compositions Cl, C6 and C8 were applied according to the application protocol described below and evaluated with regard to the hold of the hairstyle in a humid environment according to the test protocol described below. Application Protocol

[0237] Strands of damaged hair (type 2, see de La Mettrie R, et al. Shape variability and classification of human hair: A worldwide approach. Human Biology. 2007; 79: 265-281), with an alkaline solubility of 42, weighing 2.7 g and measuring 27 cm in length, are washed with DOP shampoo and then squeezed dry between the fingers (2 passes). The damp strands are then placed on a flat surface, and compositions Cl, C6, or C8 are applied to said strands with a bath ratio of 0.4 (i.e., 0.4 g of composition per 1 g of hair).

[0238] The strands are left to rest for 5 minutes. They are then rinsed under tap water for 10 seconds, wrung out, and dried at 60°C (10 min / g of hair). These steps are repeated for a total of 5 applications. Test protocol

[0239] The wicks are placed in a glove box (closed box) at room temperature (22°C), with a controlled relative humidity of 80%. Photographs are taken immediately (at t0) and after 3 hours (t3h) at 80% relative humidity in order to Determine the increase in hair volume and / or the formation of frizz in humid conditions by measuring the width of the strand at mid-height. The smaller the difference between the width at mid-height of the strand subjected to high humidity for 3 hours and the width at mid-height at 10 minutes, the better the control of hair volume and / or frizz.

[0240] e. Result of measurements of hairstyle retention in a humid environment

[0241] The results of the half-height wick width measurements in mm are summarized in the table below.

[0242] [Tables4] Composition Wick width at half-height at to (mm) Wick width at half-height at t3h (mm) At t3h-to (mm) Cl (Placebo) 22 47 25 C6 (Invention) 24 39 15 C8 (Invention) 20 31 11

[0243] The compositions according to the invention make it possible to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in humid environments.

Claims

Demands

1. Composition comprising: (i) one or more fatty acids A selected from monounsaturated fatty acids, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures; ii) one or more B fatty acids selected from polyunsaturated fatty acids, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures; iii) one or more C amino acids chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below, their salts, their solvates such as hydrates, and their mixtures: COOH (I) H — Ç — N(H) P R Formula (I) in which: ■ p is an integer equal to 1 or 2; ■ when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 to 8 links, preferably 5 links, this cycle being optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from hydroxyl or (Ci-C4)alkyl; ■ when p = 2, R represents: - a hydrogen atom; or - a (Ci-Ci2)alkyl group, preferably a (Ci-C4)alkyl group, interrupted by at least one heteroatom or group selected from -S-, -NH- or -C(NH)- and / or substituted by at least one group selected from -OH, -NH2, -NH-C(NH)-NH2 or imidazole; and (iv) optionally one or more glycine D derivatives chosen from the compounds of the following formula (II): (II) Formula (II) in which Ri and R2 represent, independently of each other, a (Ci-C4)alkyl group and R3 represents a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4)alkyl group; it being understood that the composition comprises: - a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; - a total content of amino acids C greater than or equal to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; and - a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B + amino acids C + glycine derivatives D greater than or equal to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the composition comprises a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B ranging from 2.5% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 2.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a total C amino acid content of 2.5% to 7.5% by weight, preferably of 2.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a total content of fatty acids A + fatty acids B + amino acids C + glycine derivatives D ranging from 6% to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 6% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty acid(s) A are selected from the following formula (III) compounds, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof: O (III) / / OH Formula (III) wherein R represents a monounsaturated (C8-C40)alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups, preferably a monounsaturated (C10-C30)alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl (-OH) groups, more preferably a (C12) group

6. -C24) monounsaturated alkenyl, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH); the fatty acid(s) A being preferably chosen from myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, vaccenic acid, paullinic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, gondoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from oleic acid, its salts, its solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof; even more preferably the fatty acid A is oleic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the B fatty acid(s) are selected from the following formula (IV) compounds, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof:

7. Formula (IV) in which R' represents a (C8-C40) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), preferably a (Cio-C3O) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH), more preferably a (Ci2-C24) polyunsaturated alkenyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups (-OH); the B fatty acid(s) being preferably chosen from linoleic acid, linolelaidic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, α-linolenic acid, γ-linolenic acid, dihomo-γ-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, rumenic acid, their salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from linoleic acid, its salts, isomers, solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof;even more preferably the fatty acid B is linoleic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the amino acid(s) C are selected from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, histidine, their salts, their isomers, their solvates such as hydrates,; and mixtures thereof, preferably from arginine, its salts, its isomers, its solvates such as hydrates, and mixtures thereof; more preferably the amino acid C is arginine; even more preferably the amino acid C is L-arginine.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more glycine D derivatives selected from the compounds of formula (II) as defined in claim 1, preferably wherein Rh R2 and R3 are identical, more preferably wherein Rb R2 and R3 represent a methyl group.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the glycine D derivative(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 7.5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more fats other than fatty acids A and B as defined in claim 1, preferably solid, more preferably selected from solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more cationic surfactants, preferably selected from quaternary ammonium salts.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises one or more amino silicones.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises a solvent selected from water, C2-C4 alcohols, polyols, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof, preferably from water, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from water, ethanol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, even more preferably the composition comprises water as a solvent.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the pH of the composition is between 3 and 10, preferably between 3 and 7, more preferably between 3.5 and 5.

5.

15. A process for treating keratin fibers comprising a) applying to the keratin fibers a composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims.

16. A method according to the preceding claim comprising at least one additional step successive to step a) selected from the following steps b) to d): b) a step of applying the composition to the keratin fibers, preferably of a duration of at least 10 seconds, said application step being optionally carried out under an airtight film such as a foil wrap or plastic film and / or by using a heating device; c) a step of rinsing and / or washing the keratin fibers; d) a step of drying the keratin fibers in ambient air or using a heating device.

17. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 to prevent irreversible deformation of keratin fibers during combing and / or detangling.

18. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 for repairing and / or preventing breakage of keratin fibers.

19. Use of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 14 to protect keratin fibers from moisture, preferably to limit the formation of frizz and / or the increase in hair volume in humid conditions.

20. Use according to claims 17 to 19, wherein the keratin fibers are damaged and / or sensitized keratin fibers.