Composition comprising ionically crosslinked high molecular weight chitosan
Patent Information
- Authority / Receiving Office
- JP · JP
- Patent Type
- Applications
- Current Assignee / Owner
- LOREAL SA
- Filing Date
- 2023-04-18
- Publication Date
- 2026-04-28
AI Technical Summary
There is a need for cosmetic compositions that provide good hair styling and shape recovery effects to keratin fibers while using environmentally friendly ingredients.
A composition comprising high molecular weight chitosan, monovalent non-polymeric acids or their salts, and non-polymeric acids or salts with two or more pKa values, which are ionically crosslinked, is used to create a stable emulsion that can be applied to keratin fibers, providing effective styling and shape recovery.
The composition effectively styles and restores the shape of keratin fibers, while being environmentally friendly due to the use of renewable and biodegradable materials, and maintains stability over time.
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Abstract
Description
[Technical field]
[0001] The present invention relates to a composition comprising ionically crosslinked high molecular weight chitosan, as well as to a cosmetic method using said composition. [Background technology]
[0002] Eco-friendly cosmetic formulations, which are designed and developed with environmental concerns in mind, have become a major goal to meet global challenges.
[0003] It is therefore essential to propose more sustainable compositions, preparation methods and ingredients to address these environmental issues.
[0004] In this context, it is important to develop new cosmetic compositions that have a better carbon footprint, in particular by promoting the use of renewable raw materials and / or materials with a good natural index and / or materials of natural origin, more particularly materials of plant origin, while reducing the use of compounds of petrochemical origin.
[0005] As is known in the art, certain cosmetic and other optional compositions employ polyion complexes formed from anionic and cationic polymers.
[0006] For example, WO2021 / 171909 discloses a composition comprising at least one polyion complex particle comprising at least one cationic polymer, at least one anionic polymer, and at least one non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values. [Prior art documents] [Patent documents]
[0007] [Patent Document 1] WO2021 / 171909 [Patent Document 2] WO03 / 068824 Summary of the Invention [Problem to be solved by the invention]
[0008] There is a need for a composition that can provide good styling and shape recovery effects to keratin fibers such as hair while containing environmentally friendly ingredients. Hair styling effect means that the keratin fibers can be easily shaped into a desired line, such as a straight line. Shape recovery effect means that the keratin fibers can easily return to their original shape.
[0009] Therefore, a first object of the present invention is to provide a composition capable of providing good hair styling and shape recovery effects to keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0010] Additionally, a second object of the present invention is to provide a composition that can include at least one environmentally friendly ingredient. [Means for solving the problem]
[0011] The above object of the present invention is to (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, and (c) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; A composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising This can be achieved by the composition, (a) in which the cationic polymer is selected from chitosan having a molecular weight (Da) of more than 20,000.
[0012] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0013] (b) The monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid or salt thereof, and more preferably lactic acid or salt thereof.
[0014] The amount of (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0015] (c) The non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values may be an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof having at least one phosphate group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups, more preferably phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, or a salt thereof.
[0016] The amount of (c) the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.003% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.005% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0017] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
[0018] The amount of (d) water in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass to 99% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 97% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0019] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one oil.
[0020] (e) The oil may be selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably vegetable oils.
[0021] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1 mass % to 50 mass %, preferably from 3 mass % to 45 mass %, and more preferably from 5 mass % to 40 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0022] The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one fatty acid.
[0023] (f) Fatty acids are C4 to C 26 , preferably C6 to C 24 , more preferably C8 to C 22 They may be selected from saturated and unsaturated straight or branched chain fatty acids.
[0024] The (a) cationic polymer may be hydrophobized with (f) a fatty acid.
[0025] The amount of the (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0026] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of: applying a composition according to the invention to keratinous fibres; drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers; The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method including: [Brief description of the drawings]
[0027] [Figure 1A] 1 is a schematic diagram showing the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets, dispersed in an aqueous phase in one embodiment of the present invention, and an example of hydrophobization of (a) a cationic polymer; and (f) a schematic diagram showing the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets, dispersed in an aqueous phase in the case of a fatty phase that does not contain fatty acids. [Figure 1B]1 is a schematic diagram showing the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets, dispersed in an aqueous phase in one embodiment of the present invention, and an example of hydrophobization of (a) a cationic polymer. (f) is a schematic diagram showing the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets, dispersed in an aqueous phase in the case of a fatty phase containing a fatty acid. [Figure 1C] 1 is a schematic diagram showing an example of the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, and hydrophobization of (a) a cationic polymer in one embodiment of the present invention; and (f) a schematic diagram showing an example of the mechanism of hydrophobization of (a) a cationic polymer by a fatty acid. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS
[0028] After extensive investigation, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a composition that can provide good styling and shape recovery effects to keratinous fibers such as hair and that can contain at least one environmentally friendly ingredient.
[0029] Therefore, the composition according to the invention (a) at least one cationic polymer; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, and (c) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; where (a) The cationic polymer is selected from chitosan having a molecular weight (Da) of more than 20,000.
[0030] Keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can be easily arranged into a desired line, such as a straight line. Also, keratin fibers treated with the composition according to the present invention can easily return to their original shape. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide good manageability of keratin fibers such as hair.
[0031] The (a) cationic polymer may be ionically crosslinked by (c) a non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values. The crosslinked cationic polymer can provide better bond formation and shape memory effects between keratin fibers such as hair. Thus, the crosslinked cationic polymer can provide good hair styling and shape recovery effects to keratin fibers such as hair. Therefore, the present invention can provide, for example, excellent hair styling effects.
[0032] Since chitosan can be obtained from natural resources, (a) the cationic polymer is an environmentally friendly component. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can include an environmentally friendly component.
[0033] In addition, components (b) and (c) can originate from renewable and / or biodegradable materials, such as plants, and therefore the composition according to the invention can be environmentally compatible.
[0034] Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
[0035] The composition according to the present invention may comprise (d) an aqueous phase comprising water.
[0036] When the composition according to the invention comprises (e) at least one oil, the composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase comprising (e) the oil. When the composition according to the invention comprises (f) at least one fatty acid, the (f) fatty acid may be present in the fatty phase.
[0037] The fatty phase may be dispersed in the aqueous phase, in which case the fatty phase is the discontinuous phase while the aqueous phase is the continuous phase, so that the composition according to the invention may be in the form of O / W (oil-in-water).
[0038] The (a) cationic polymer may be hydrophobized with (f) fatty acid. The hydrophobized (a) cationic polymer exists between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase and can stabilize the fatty phase. Therefore, the fatty phase can be stably dispersed in the aqueous phase.
[0039] The composition according to the present invention is stable even when it contains a relatively large amount of (e) oil. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can contain a relatively large amount of (e) oil.
[0040] The composition according to the present invention is stable for a long period of time, in other words, phase separation of the composition according to the present invention can be prevented for a long period of time.
[0041] Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be stored for a long period of time.
[0042] The present invention will now be described in more detail.
[0043] [Composition] (cationic polymer) The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one cationic polymer.
[0044] (a) There is no limitation on the type of cationic polymer. Two or more different types of cationic polymers may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of cationic polymer or a combination of different types of cationic polymers may be used.
[0045] The cationic polymer has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (a) cationic polymer may be 0.01 meq / g to 20 meq / g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq / g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq / g.
[0046] The (a) cationic polymer is selected from chitosan having a molecular weight (Da) of more than 20,000, preferably more than 30,000, more preferably more than 50,000, even more preferably more than 80,000. In other words, the (a) cationic polymer is a high molecular weight chitosan.
[0047] (a) The molecular weight (Da) of the cationic polymer may be less than 2,000,000, preferably less than 1,000,000, more preferably less than 500,000, and even more preferably less than 300,000.
[0048] Therefore, the molecular weight (Da) of the (a) cationic polymer may be greater than 20,000 and less than 2,000,000, preferably greater than 30,000 and less than 1,000,000, more preferably greater than 50,000 and less than 500,000, and even more preferably greater than 80,000 and less than 300,000.
[0049] Unless otherwise defined in the description, "molecular weight" means the weight average molecular weight. Molecular weight can be measured or determined, for example, by gel permeation chromatography according to ASTM D5296-19.
[0050] Chitosan is very rare in nature: it has only been reported in the exoskeletons of certain insects, such as termite queens, and in the cell walls of a certain class of fungi, the Zygomycetes.
[0051] Chitosan can be obtained by deacetylation of chitin, a polysaccharide composed of several N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units linked together by β-type bonds (1,4).
[0052] The idealized chemical structure of chitosan is a sequence of β-D-glucosamine monomers linked by glycosidic bonds (1→4).
[0053] "Chitosan" according to the present invention means any copolymer formed from the building blocks N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and D-glucosamine, the degree of acetylation of which is less than 90%, preferably less than 80%, preferably less than 70%, preferably less than 60%, preferably less than 50%. Chitosan consists of glucosamine sugar units (deacetylated units) and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine units (acetylated units) linked together by β-type bonds (1,4), and is a polymer of the poly(N-acetyl-D-glucosamine)-poly(D-glucosamine) type.
[0054] More preferably, the degree of acetylation of chitosan is not more than 40%, preferably not more than 35%, preferably not more than 25%, preferably not more than 15%, preferably not more than 10%.
[0055] The degree of acetylation is the percentage of acetylated units relative to the total number of units and can be determined by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) or titration with a strong base.
[0056] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably a polysaccharide prepared from a fungal source. In particular, chitosan is extracted and purified from safe and abundant food or biotechnological fungal sources, such as mushroom (Agaricus bisporus) or Aspergillus niger).
[0057] The chitosan of the present invention is preferably derived from fungi of the Ascomycete type, in particular Aspergillus niger and / or Basidiomycete fungus, in particular Lentinula edodes and / or the mycelium of the mushroom. Preferably, the fungus is Aspergillus niger.
[0058] The chitosan may be of genetically modified organism (GMO) origin, but is preferably of non-GMO origin.
[0059] The chitosan according to the invention is natural, i.e. unmodified, in particular does not contain any chemical modifications.
[0060] One method for preparing chitosan is that described in WO03 / 068824.
[0061] Preferably, the chitosan used in the present invention is in the form of a powder. It is marketed under the name Kiosmetine or Kionutrime by the company Kitozyme, e.g. Kiosmetine-CSH and Kiosmetine P.
[0062] The amount of (a) the cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0063] The amount of (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.
[0064] The amount of the (a) cationic polymer in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01 to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0065] (Monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt) The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof. Two or more monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof or a combination of different types of monovalent non-polymeric acids or salts thereof may be used.
[0066] The term "non-polymeric" as used herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, and thus does not correspond to acids obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.
[0067] The term "salt" as used herein refers to a salt formed by adding a suitable base to a monovalent non-polymeric acid, which can be obtained from the reaction of a monovalent non-polymeric acid with a base according to methods known to those skilled in the art. The salt can include metal salts, such as salts with alkali metals such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metals such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0068] (b) The molecular weight of the monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof is preferably less than 1,000, more preferably 500 or less, and even more preferably 100 or less.
[0069] The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof can be included in the aqueous phase formed by (d) water. The (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof can promote dissolution of the (a) cationic polymer in the aqueous phase.
[0070] (b) The monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof may be selected from monovalent organic or inorganic acids and salts thereof, preferably monovalent organic acids and salts thereof, and more preferably monovalent carboxylic acids and salts thereof.
[0071] The monovalent non-polymeric acids have a single acid group which may be selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid groups, sulfate groups, sulfonic acid groups, phosphoric acid groups, phosphonic acid groups, and mixtures thereof.
[0072] The monovalent non-polymeric acid may be selected from hydroxy acids, preferably alpha-hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid.
[0073] The monovalent non-polymeric acid may be a monovalent non-polymeric organic acid, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid, more preferably lactic acid.
[0074] The amount of (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0075] The amount of (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0076] The amount of (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% by mass to 5% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0077] (Non-polymeric acids with two or more acid dissociation constants) The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values, i.e., at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more acid dissociation constants. The pKa value (acid dissociation constant) is well known to those skilled in the art and should be determined at a certain temperature, e.g., 25°C.
[0078] (c) a non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values can be included in the (d) aqueous phase that includes water. The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values can function as a crosslinker for the (a) cationic polymer.
[0079] The term "non-polymeric" as used herein means that the acid is not obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, and thus does not correspond to acids obtained by polymerizing two or more monomers, such as polyacrylic acid.
[0080] (c) The molecular weight of the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values is preferably 1000 or less, more preferably 800 or less, and even more preferably 700 or less.
[0081] There is no limitation on the type of (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or its salt. Two or more different types of (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or its salt may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or its salt, or a combination of different types of (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or its salt, may be used.
[0082] The term "salt" as used herein means a salt formed by adding a suitable base to a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values, which can be obtained from the reaction of a non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values with a base according to methods known to those skilled in the art. The salt can include metal salts, such as salts with alkali metals such as Na and K, and salts with alkaline earth metals such as Mg and Ca, and ammonium salts.
[0083] (c) The non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values may be an organic acid, an inorganic acid, or a salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid, an inorganic acid, or a salt thereof.
[0084] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values can have at least two monovalent acid groups or at least one polyvalent acid group, which can be selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid groups, sulfate groups, sulfonic acid groups, phosphoric acid groups, phosphonic acid groups, phenolic hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.
[0085] Non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values preferably have at least one phosphate group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups.
[0086] The non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values may be a non-polymeric polyacid. The non-polymeric polyacid may be selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, disulfonic acids, phosphoric acids, diphosphoric acids, and mixtures thereof.
[0087] (c) Non-polymeric acids or salts thereof having two or more pKa values are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, malic acid, citric acid, aconitic acid, oxaloacetic acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof; aspartic acid, glutamic acid, and salts thereof; terephthalylidene dicamphorsulfonic acid, and salts thereof (Mexoryl SX), benzophenone-9; phytic acid, and salts thereof. ;Red No. 2 (Amaranth), Red No. 102 (New Coccine), Yellow No. 5 (Tartrazine), Yellow No. 6 (Sunset Yellow FCF), Green No. 3 (Fast Green FCF), Blue No. 1 (Brilliant Blue FCF), Blue No. 2 (Indigo Carmine), Red No. 201 (Lithol Rubin B), Red No. 202 (Lithol Rubin BCA), Red No. 204 (Lake Red CBA), Red No. 206 (Lithol Red CA), Red No. 207 (Lithol Red BA), Red No. 20 No. 8 (Lisol Red SR), Red No. 219 (Brilliant Lake Red R), Red No. 220 (Deep Maroon), Red No. 227 (Fast Acid Magenta), Yellow No. 203 (Quinoline Yellow WS), Green No. 201 (Alizanin Cyanine Green F), Green No. 204 (Pyranine Conc), Green No. 205 (Light Green SF Yellow), Blue No. 203 (Patent Blue CA), Blue No. 205 (Alphazuline FG), Red No. 401 (Violamin R), Red 40 Red No. 5 (Permanent Red F5R), Red No. 502 (Ponceau 3R), Red No. 503 (Ponceau R), Red No. 504 (Ponceau SX), Green No. 401 (Naphthol Green B), Green No. 402 (Guinea Green B) and Black No. 401 (Naphthol Blue Black); folic acid, ascorbic acid, erythorbic acid, and salts thereof; cystine and its salts; EDTA and its salts; glycyrrhizin and its salts; and mixtures thereof.
[0088] (c) It may be preferred that the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values is selected from the group consisting of phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acid, phosphonic acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof, more preferably phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acid, phytic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, and salts thereof.
[0089] The amount of (c) the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.003% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.005% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0090] The amount of (c) the non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0091] The amount of (c) the non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or a salt thereof in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by mass to 10% by mass, preferably 0.003% by mass to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.005% by mass to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0092] (water) Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.
[0093] (d) Water may, for example, constitute an aqueous phase which may be the continuous phase in a composition according to the invention.
[0094] The amount of (d) water may be 50% by weight or more, preferably 60% by weight or more, and more preferably 70% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0095] (d) The amount of water may be up to 99% by weight, preferably up to 97% by weight, and more preferably up to 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0096] The amount of (d) water may be 50% by mass to 99% by mass, preferably 60% by mass to 97% by mass, and more preferably 70% by mass to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0097] (oil) The composition according to the invention may comprise (e) at least one oil. When two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.
[0098] (e) The oil may, for example, constitute a fatty phase which may be a dispersed or discontinuous phase in the composition according to the invention.
[0099] In this specification, "oil" means a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (non-solid) at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and at room temperature (25°C). As oils, those commonly used in cosmetics can be used, alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.
[0100] (e) The oil may be a non-polar oil, such as a hydrocarbon oil or a silicone oil; a polar oil, such as a vegetable oil or an animal oil, and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
[0101] (e) The oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils derived from biological sources, such as oils of vegetable or animal origin, oils derived from non-biological sources, such as chemical, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
[0102] Examples of vegetable oils include, for example, apricot oil, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
[0103] Examples of animal oils include, for example, squalene and squalane.
[0104] Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.
[0105] The ester oil is preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 Aliphatic mono- or poly-acids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C 26 They are liquid esters with aliphatic monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the ester being 10 or more.
[0106] Preferably, in the case of esters of monohydric alcohols, at least one of the alcohol and acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
[0107] Among the monoesters of monoacids and monohydric alcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
[0108] C4~C 22 Dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C 22 Esters with alcohols, and mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and non-sugar C4-C 26 Esters with dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols can also be used.
[0109] Mention may in particular be made of the following: diethyl sebacate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate, diisostearyl adipate, bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, triisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, trioctyldodecyl citrate, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate.
[0110] As ester oil, C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 Sugar esters and diesters of fatty acids can be used. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing at least four carbon atoms and containing several alcohol functional groups, with or without aldehyde or ketone functional groups. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
[0111] Examples of suitable sugars that may be mentioned are sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, as well as derivatives thereof, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.
[0112] Sugar esters of fatty acids are in particular those which are composed of the aforementioned sugars and linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 , preferably C 12 ~C 22 They may be selected from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters with fatty acids. When these compounds are unsaturated, they may have 1 to 3 conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
[0113] The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
[0114] These esters may be, for example, oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, coconut oil fatty acid esters, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate and arachidonic acid esters, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the mixed esters of oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate.
[0115] More particularly, mono- and diesters are used, in particular the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate and oleostearate of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
[0116] An example that may be mentioned is the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
[0117] Examples of preferred ester oils include diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate / 2-ethylhexyl caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, carbon black, and the like. Examples of suitable oleic acid salts include dicaprylyl acetate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
[0118] Examples of artificial triglycerides include capryl caprylyl glyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, capric / caprylic triglyceride, and capric / caprylic / linolenic triglyceride.
[0119] Hydrocarbon oils include the following: - Linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C6-C 16 Lower alkanes. Examples that may be mentioned include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane. - linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam®, and squalane; can be selected from:
[0120] Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oils (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petrolatum, naphthalene, etc.; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, and decene / butene copolymers; and mixtures thereof.
[0121] The term "aliphatic" in aliphatic alcohols means containing a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are included within the scope of aliphatic alcohols. The aliphatic alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohols may be linear or branched.
[0122] The aliphatic alcohol may have the structure R-OH, where R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched groups containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C 12 ~C 20 Alkyl group and C 12 ~C 20 alkenyl groups. R may be unsubstituted or substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
[0123] Examples of fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
[0124] Preferably, the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.
[0125] Thus, aliphatic alcohols are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, preferably linear or branched, saturated C6-C 30 Alcohols, more preferably linear or branched, saturated C 12 ~C 20 Alcohol can be selected.
[0126] The term "saturated fatty alcohol" as used herein means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. A saturated fatty alcohol is any linear or branched saturated C-C 30 It is preferably selected from aliphatic alcohols. Linear or branched saturated C6-C 30 Among fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C 12 ~C 20 Fatty alcohols are preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C 16 ~C 20 More preferably, an aliphatic alcohol can be used. 16 ~C 20 Even more preferably, an aliphatic alcohol can be used.
[0127] Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or mixtures thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol can be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.
[0128] According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohols used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably chosen from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof.
[0129] It is preferred to use oils of vegetable or animal origin, more preferably oils derived from biological sources such as vegetable oils.
[0130] Oils of vegetable or animal origin can include hydrocarbon oils.
[0131] Preferred examples of the plant-derived hydrocarbon oil include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as dodecane, tetradecane, hexadecane, octadecane, squalane, and hemisqualane.
[0132] The (e) oil is preferably selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably vegetable oils.
[0133] When present, the (e) oil may be surrounded by a plurality of (a) cationic polymers or complexes of (a) cationic polymers with (c) non-polymeric acids having two or more pKa values or salts thereof, or the (e) oil may be present within the hollow of a capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complexes. In other words, the (e) oil may be covered by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complexes, or the capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymers and the above complexes contains the (e) oil within the hollow of the capsule.
[0134] The (e) oil surrounded by the (a) cationic polymer or the above complex or present within the hollow of the capsule formed by the (a) cationic polymer or the above complex cannot directly contact keratin fibers such as hair, and therefore, even if the (e) oil has a sticky or oily feel when used, the composition according to the present invention is not considered to have a sticky or oily feel when used.
[0135] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, more preferably 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0136] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by mass or less, preferably 45% by mass or less, more preferably 40% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0137] The amount of (e) oil in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1 mass % to 50 mass %, preferably from 3 mass % to 45 mass %, and more preferably from 5 mass % to 40 mass %, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0138] (fatty acid) The composition according to the invention may comprise (f) at least one fatty acid. When two or more fatty acids are used, they may be the same or different.
[0139] The term "fatty acid" as used herein means a carboxylic acid having a long aliphatic carbon chain.
[0140] (f) The fatty acid has at least 4 carbon atoms, preferably at least 6 carbon atoms, more preferably at least 8 carbon atoms. (f) The fatty acid may contain up to 26 carbon atoms, preferably up to 24 carbon atoms, more preferably up to 22 carbon atoms. (f) The fatty acid may be any of C4-C 26 Fatty acids, preferably C6-C 24 Fatty acids, even more preferably C8-C 22 It is preferably selected from fatty acids.
[0141] The (f) fatty acid may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids. Thus, the (f) fatty acid may be selected from C4 to C 26 , preferably C6 to C 24 , more preferably C8 to C 22 They may be selected from saturated and unsaturated straight or branched chain fatty acids.
[0142] As the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid, monounsaturated linear or branched fatty acid or polyunsaturated linear or branched fatty acid may be used. The unsaturated portion of the unsaturated linear or branched fatty acid may include a carbon-carbon double bond or a carbon-carbon triple bond.
[0143] Saturated fatty acids include, for example, caprylic acid (C8), pelargonic acid (C9), and capric acid (C 10 ), lauric acid (C 12 ), myristic acid (C 14 ), pentadecanoic acid (C 15 ), palmitic acid (C 16 ), heptadecanoic acid (C 17 ), stearic acid (C 18 ), Isostearic acid (C 18 ), nonadecanoic acid (C 19 ), arachidic acid (C 20 ), behenic acid (C 22 ), and lignoceric acid (C 24 ) can be mentioned.
[0144] Examples of unsaturated fatty acids include myristoleic acid (C 14 ), palmitoleic acid (C 16 ), oleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), linoleic acid (C 18 ), elaidic acid (C 18 ), arachidonic acid (C 20 ), eicosenoic acid (C 20 ), erucic acid (C 22 ), and nervonic acid (C 24 ) can be mentioned.
[0145] (f) Fatty acids are C8 to C 18 It is preferred to select from saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched chain fatty acids, more preferably from the group consisting of caprylic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and mixtures thereof.
[0146] (f) The fatty acid may be in the form of its free acid or its salt. The salt of the fatty acid may include inorganic salts, such as alkali metal salts (sodium salt, potassium salt, etc.) and alkaline earth metal salts (magnesium salt, calcium salt, etc.), as well as organic salts, such as ammonium salts (quaternary ammonium salts, etc.) and amine salts (triethanolamine salt, triethylamine salt, etc.). A single type of fatty acid salt or a combination of different types of fatty acid salts may be used. Furthermore, a combination of one or more fatty acids in the form of free acid and one or more fatty acids in the form of salt may be used, and one or more types of salt may be used.
[0147] The amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more, more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. The amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be even more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.
[0148] On the other hand, the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 5% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be even more preferable that the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention is 4% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0149] Accordingly, the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may even be more preferred that the amount of (f) fatty acid in the composition according to the present invention is 1% to 4% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
[0150] (pH) The pH of the composition according to the present invention may be 3-9, preferably 3.3-8.5, and more preferably 3.5-8.
[0151] (a) the cationic polymer or the complex of (a) the cationic polymer and (c) the non-polymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values can be very stable at pH 3 to 9. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can be very stable under a pH of 3 to 9.
[0152] The pH of the composition according to the present invention can be adjusted by adding at least one alkaline agent and / or at least one acid other than (b) a monovalent non-polymeric acid or its salt or (c) a non-polymeric acid or its salt having two or more pKa values. The pH of the composition according to the present invention can also be adjusted by adding at least one buffering agent.
[0153] (Alkaline agent) The composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one alkaline agent. Two or more alkaline agents may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of alkaline agent or a combination of different types of alkaline agents may be used.
[0154] The alkaline agent may be an inorganic alkaline agent, preferably selected from the group consisting of ammonia, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal phosphates and monohydrogen phosphates, such as sodium phosphate or sodium monohydrogen phosphate.
[0155] Examples of inorganic alkali metal hydroxides include sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide. Examples of alkaline earth metal hydroxides include calcium hydroxide and magnesium hydroxide. As the inorganic alkaline agent, sodium hydroxide is preferred.
[0156] The alkaline agent may be an organic alkaline agent, which is preferably selected from the group consisting of monoamines and their derivatives, diamines and their derivatives, polyamines and their derivatives, basic amino acids and their derivatives, oligomers of basic amino acids and their derivatives, polymers of basic amino acids and their derivatives, urea and its derivatives, and guanidine and its derivatives.
[0157] Examples of organic alkaline agents include alkanolamines, such as mono-, di-, and triethanolamine, and isopropanolamine, urea, guanidine and their derivatives, basic amino acids, such as ornithine, and diamines, such as those having the following structures:
[0158] [ka]
[0159] (wherein R represents an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl group, and R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl group), and examples thereof include 1,3-propanediamine and derivatives thereof.
[0160] The alkaline agent can be used in a total amount of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.02% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.03% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, depending on the solubility thereof.
[0161] (acid) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one acid. Two or more acids may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of acid or a combination of different types of acids may be used.
[0162] The acid may be any inorganic or organic acid commonly used in cosmetics, preferably an inorganic acid. Monobasic and / or polybasic acids may be used. Monobasic acids such as hydrochloric acid (HCl) may be used.
[0163] The acids can be used in a total amount of 0.01% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 0.02% by mass to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.03% by mass to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition, depending on their solubility.
[0164] (Optional Ingredients) In addition to the above-mentioned components, the composition according to the present invention may contain optional components typically used in cosmetics, specifically, surfactants / emulsifiers, for example, (a) hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners derived from synthetic polymers other than cationic polymers, volatile or non-volatile organic solvents, anionic polymers, amphoteric polymers, nonionic polymers such as β-glucans, (e) silicones and silicone derivatives other than oils, natural extracts derived from animals or plants other than (a) cationic polymers or (e) oils, waxes, etc., within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.
[0165] The composition according to the present invention may contain the above optional components in an amount of 0.01% to 30% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 20% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 10% by mass, relative to the total mass of the composition.
[0166] The amount of surfactants / emulsifiers and / or synthetic thickeners and / or organic solvents in the composition according to the invention may be up to 1% by weight, preferably up to 0.1% by weight, more preferably up to 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferred that the composition according to the invention does not contain any surfactants / emulsifiers or synthetic thickeners or organic solvents.
[0167] [Preparation] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential components described above and, if necessary, the optional components described above.
[0168] The method and means for mixing the above essential components and optional components are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential components and optional components to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
[0169] The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by simple or easy mixing with conventional mixing means such as stirrers and homogenizers, and heating may not be required. Therefore, the preparation method of the composition according to the present invention can be environmentally friendly.
[0170] [Cosmetic use] The composition according to the invention may be intended to be used as a cosmetic composition.
[0171] The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be intended for application onto keratinous fibers. Keratinous fibers, as used herein, refer to fibers that contain keratin as a main component, examples of which include hair. It is preferred that the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for a cosmetic method for keratinous fibers, in particular hair.
[0172] The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is preferably a cosmetic composition for keratinous fibers such as hair, more preferably a hair care cosmetic composition.
[0173] [form] The compositions according to the invention may be in any form.
[0174] When the composition according to the present invention comprises (e) oil, (e) oil can form a fatty phase, (d) water can form an aqueous phase, and the fatty phase can be dispersed in the aqueous phase. Therefore, the aqueous phase can function as a continuous phase, and the fatty phase can function as a dispersed phase. In other words, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O / W dispersion, such as an O / W emulsion. When the composition according to the present invention is an O / W type, it can provide a refreshing feeling due to (d) water forming its outer phase.
[0175] [mechanism] FIG. 1 shows a schematic diagram illustrating the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, in one embodiment of the present invention, and an example of hydrophobization of (a) a cationic polymer.
[0176] A plurality of (a) cationic polymers or a complex of (a) cationic polymers and (c) non-polymeric acids or their salts having two or more pKa values can be present at the interface between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase. Therefore, the (a) cationic polymers or the above complexes can form an emulsion without the aid of any conventional surfactant or emulsifier. The emulsion formed by the (a) cationic polymers or the above complexes can resemble a so-called Pickering emulsion.
[0177] Alternatively, a plurality of (a) cationic polymers or the above complexes can form capsules having a hollow space. (e) oil can be present in the hollow space. In other words, (e) oil can be incorporated into the capsule. The capsule wall can be composed of a continuous layer or film formed from (a) cationic polymers or the above complexes. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that (a) cationic polymers or the above complexes can reorganize at the interface between (e) oil and (d) water to spontaneously form capsules having a hollow space for containing (e) oil. For example, a continuous aqueous phase containing (d) water and a dispersed phase containing (e) oil in a capsule can form an O / W emulsion, which can also resemble a so-called Pickering emulsion.
[0178] The fatty phase, if present, may contain (f) fatty acid. The (f) fatty acid in the fatty phase can hydrophobize the (a) cationic polymer in situ. Figure 1 shows a scheme of hydrophobization of the (a) cationic polymer by the (f) fatty acid.
[0179] FIG. 1A shows a schematic diagram illustrating the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase (if present), such as oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, in the case of (f) a fatty acid-free fatty phase.
[0180] In Figure 1A, the hydrophobicity of (a) cationic polymer may be insufficient. Therefore, the affinity between (a) cationic polymer and (b) fatty phase containing (e) oil may be limited. Therefore, the emulsion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase may be unstable.
[0181] On the other hand, FIG. 1B shows a schematic diagram illustrating the behavior of (a) a cationic polymer around a fatty phase, such as oil droplets dispersed in an aqueous phase, in the case of (f) a fatty phase containing a fatty acid.
[0182] In FIG. 1B, as shown in FIG. 1C, the carboxylic acid group of the (f) fatty acid in the fatty phase can ionically interact with the cationic or cationized group, such as the ammonium group or amino group, in the (a) cationic polymer. Accordingly, the (a) cationic polymer can be ionically hydrophobized and have sufficient hydrophobicity. Thus, the affinity between the (a) cationic polymer and the (e) oil-containing fatty phase is strengthened. Therefore, the emulsion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase is stable.
[0183] [Coating] The composition according to the present invention can be used to easily prepare a coating.
[0184] The present invention therefore also relates to a method for preparing a film, preferably a decorative film, optionally having a thickness of more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, comprising: applying a composition according to the invention onto keratinous fibres such as hair; drying the composition; The present invention may also relate to a method comprising:
[0185] The upper limit of the thickness of the coating according to the present invention is not limited. Thus, for example, the thickness of the coating according to the present invention may be 1 mm or less, preferably 500 μm or less, more preferably 300 μm or less, and even more preferably 100 μm or less.
[0186] Since the method for preparing a film according to the present invention includes a step of applying the composition according to the present invention onto keratin fibers such as hair and a step of drying the composition, the method according to the present invention does not require any spin coating or spraying, and therefore even a relatively thick film can be easily prepared. Therefore, the method for preparing a film according to the present invention can prepare a relatively thick film without using any special equipment such as a spin coater or a spray machine.
[0187] Even if the film according to the invention is relatively thick, it can still be thin and transparent and therefore not easily perceptible, so that the film according to the invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic film.
[0188] The present invention also provides (1) A coating, preferably a decorative coating, optionally having a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, applying a composition according to the invention onto keratinous fibres such as hair; and drying the composition. and (2) A coating, preferably a decorative coating, optionally having a thickness of preferably more than 0.5 μm, more preferably 1.0 μm or more, even more preferably 1.5 μm or more, (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan having a molecular weight greater than 20,000; (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, and (c) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; The present invention also relates to a coating comprising:
[0189] The coating may also include (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.
[0190] The above descriptions regarding (a) cationic polymer, (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, and (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salts thereof, as well as optional ingredients such as (e) oil and (f) fatty acid, can be applied to those in films (1) and (2) above.
[0191] It is preferred that the coating according to the present invention is hydrophobic.
[0192] The term "hydrophobic" in this specification means that the solubility of the film in water (preferably 1 liter volume) at 20 to 40° C., preferably 25 to 40° C., more preferably 30 to 40° C. is less than 10% by mass, preferably less than 5% by mass, more preferably less than 1% by mass, and even more preferably less than 0.1% by mass relative to the total mass of the film at 20 to 40° C., preferably 25 to 40° C., and more preferably 30 to 40° C. It is most preferable that the film is not soluble in water.
[0193] When the film according to the present invention is hydrophobic, the film can have water-resistant properties, and therefore the film can remain on the keratin fibers, such as hair, even when the surface of the keratin fibers is wet, for example, by sweat and rain, so that when the film according to the present invention provides any cosmetic effect, the cosmetic effect can last for a long time.
[0194] The coating according to the present invention may comprise at least one biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer layer. Two or more biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used in combination. Thus, a single type of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer or a combination of different types of biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymers may be used.
[0195] As used herein, the term "biocompatible" polymer means that the polymer does not have excessive interactions between the polymer and cells in the body, including the skin, and the polymer is not recognized as foreign by the body.
[0196] As used herein, the term "biodegradable" polymer means that the polymer can be broken down or broken down in vivo, for example by the metabolism of the organism itself or by the metabolism of microorganisms that may be present in the organism. Biodegradable polymers can also be broken down by hydrolysis.
[0197] When the coating according to the present invention comprises a biocompatible and / or biodegradable polymer, for example, the coating can reduce or eliminate irritation to the scalp and / or eliminate pollution to the environment.
[0198] Indeed, the coating according to the invention may comprise (a) at least one cationic polymer chosen from the biodegradable polymer chitosan.
[0199] The film according to the invention can be used for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibres such as hair.
[0200] [Cosmetic methods and uses] The present invention also provides A cosmetic method for keratinous fibers such as hair, comprising the steps of applying a composition according to the invention to the keratinous fibers and drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratinous fibers, or Use of the composition according to the invention for preparing a cosmetic film on keratin fibres such as hair Also relates to.
[0201] Cosmetic method means herein a non-therapeutic cosmetic method for caring for and / or covering the surface of keratinous fibers such as hair.
[0202] The film of the present invention can provide good hair styling effects and good shape recovery effects to keratinous fibers such as hair, as described above.
[0203] In addition, the cosmetic film described above can instantly protect keratin fibers such as hair by covering the surface of the keratin fibers as a barrier and shielding the keratin fibers from environmental stresses, such as pollutants and impurities.
[0204] The cosmetic benefits can be adjusted or controlled by varying the chemical composition, thickness and / or surface roughness of the cosmetic film.
[0205] When the cosmetic film contains at least one additional cosmetic active ingredient other than (e) oil, the cosmetic film can have a cosmetic effect brought about by the additional cosmetic active ingredient. For example, when the cosmetic film contains at least one cosmetic active ingredient such as a deodorant agent, the cosmetic film can control the odor on keratin fibers such as hair.
[0206] The present invention also relates to the use of (a) at least one cationic polymer selected from chitosan having a molecular weight of more than 20,000 in a composition for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, the composition comprising: (b) at least one monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, and (c) at least one non-polymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values; and may also relate to its use for improving the styling and shape recovery of keratinous fibers.
[0207] The above compositions may also include (e) at least one oil and / or (f) at least one fatty acid.
[0208] The above descriptions regarding (a) cationic polymer, (b) monovalent non-polymeric acid or salt thereof, and (c) non-polymeric acid having two or more pKa values or salts thereof, as well as optional ingredients such as (d) water, (e) oil, and (f) fatty acid, are applicable in the above uses. EXAMPLES
[0209] The present invention will now be described in more detail by means of examples, which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
[0210] (Examples 1 to 31 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10) [Preparation] Each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 31 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Tables 1 to 8. All numerical values for the amounts of components in Tables 1 to 8 are based on "mass %" of the raw materials.
[0211] The preparation details are as follows.
[0212] First, chitosan was added to water. Lactic acid was then added to solubilize the chitosan (however, in Comparative Examples 6-10, lactic acid was not used because the low molecular weight chitosan used therein was water-soluble without the aid of lactic acid). Then, a crosslinker (phosphoric acid, diphosphoric acid, citric acid, or tartaric acid) was slowly added. Then, a fatty acid (oleic acid, isostearic acid, linoleic acid, or erucic acid) was added together with oil (corn oil) to emulsify and mix at room temperature.
[0213] [Table 1]
[0214] [Table 2]
[0215] [Table 3]
[0216] [Table 4]
[0217] [Table 5]
[0218] [Table 6]
[0219] [Table 7]
[0220] [Table 8]
[0221] [evaluation] (Hair styling) 0.15 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 31 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 was applied onto 2.7 g of hair and dried with a hair dryer. The condition of the dried hair was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. Very good: Much better than the control Good: Better than the control Poor: Same as control
[0222] The results are shown in Tables 9 to 14 below.
[0223] (shape recovery) 0.15 g of each of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 31 and Comparative Examples 1 to 10 was applied onto 2.7 g of hair and dried with a hair dryer. The dried hair was straightened by combing, and shape recovery, i.e., the degree to which the hair returned to its original shape when touched with the hand, was visually observed and evaluated according to the following criteria. Very good: Much better than the control Good: Better than the control Poor: Same as control
[0224] The results are shown in Tables 9 to 14 below.
[0225] [Table 9]
[0226] [Table 10]
[0227] [Table 11]
[0228] [Table 12]
[0229] [Table 13]
[0230] [Table 14]
[0231] (Summary) From Tables 9 and 10 it can be seen that the compositions according to the invention containing various crosslinking agents showed good or very good effects in terms of hair styling and shape recovery compared to the compositions without a crosslinking agent.
[0232] It can be seen from Tables 11 to 13 that the compositions according to the present invention containing various fatty acids exhibited good effects in terms of hair styling and shape recovery, compared to the compositions not containing a crosslinking agent.
[0233] From Table 14, it can be seen that the use of low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of less than 5,000 provided poor effects in terms of hair styling and shape recovery, compared to compositions that did not contain a crosslinker. The use of high molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of more than 20,000 provided very good effects in terms of hair styling and shape recovery, compared to compositions that used low molecular weight chitosan having a molecular weight of less than 5,000.
[0234] Moreover, the compositions according to the present invention contain environmentally friendly ingredients.
Claims
1. (a) at least one cationic polymer, (b) at least one monovalent nonpolymeric acid or a salt thereof, (c) Nonpolymeric acids or salts thereof having at least one of two or more pKa values A composition containing, preferably a cosmetic composition, more preferably a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, A composition in which the cationic polymer (a) is selected from chitosan having a molecular weight of more than 20,000.
2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the cationic polymer (a) in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
3. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof is a monovalent nonpolymeric organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a monovalent carboxylic acid or salt thereof, more preferably lactic acid or salt thereof.
4. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (b) monovalent nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
5. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values is an organic acid or salt thereof, preferably a hydrophilic or water-soluble organic acid or salt thereof having at least one phosphate group and / or at least two carboxylic acid groups, more preferably phosphoric acid, diphosphate, citric acid, tartaric acid, or a salt thereof.
6. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of (c) a nonpolymeric acid or salt thereof having two or more pKa values in the composition is 0.001% to 10% by mass, preferably 0.003% to 5% by mass, and more preferably 0.005% to 1% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
7. (d) The composition according to claim 1, which preferably further contains water in an amount of 50% to 99% by mass, more preferably 60% to 97% by mass, and even more preferably 70% to 95% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
8. (e) The composition according to claim 1, further comprising at least one oil.
9. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the oil (e) is selected from vegetable oils, synthetic ester oils, and mixtures thereof, preferably from vegetable oils.
10. The composition according to claim 8, wherein the amount of oil (e) in the composition is 1% to 50% by mass, preferably 3% to 45% by mass, and more preferably 5% to 40% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
11. (f) The composition according to claim 8, further comprising at least one fatty acid.
12. The above (f) fatty acid is C 4 ~C 26 Preferably C 6 ~C 24 , more C 8 ~C 22 The composition according to claim 11, selected from saturated and unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids.
13. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the cationic polymer (a) is hydrophobized by the fatty acid (f).
14. The composition according to claim 11, wherein the amount of the (f) fatty acid in the composition is 0.01% to 15% by mass, preferably 0.05% to 10% by mass, and more preferably 0.1% to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition.
15. A beauty method for keratin fibers such as hair, A step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to the keratin fiber, The steps include drying the composition to form a cosmetic film on the keratin fibers. Beauty methods, including